Manual de inspección de materiales

© NIKE, Inc. 1999

NIKE, Inc.
Apparel Product Integrity
One Bowerman Drive
Beaverton, Oregon 97005-6453 U.S.A.
Tel: 503.671.6453
Fax: 503.671.6300
© 1999 NIKE, Inc.
The holder may not transfer, copy or distribute this material without written
permission from NIKE, Inc.
This confidential material belongs to NIKE, Inc. and must be returned by the
holder upon request.
Table of Contents
Introduction
Purpose...........................................................................................................A2.1

Preparation for Inspection

Inspection Requirements...............................................................................A2.3

Inspection Procedure
Sampling Plan................................................................................................A2.7
Color and Aesthetics......................................................................................A2.9
Visual Inspection...........................................................................................A2.11
Four Point Table............................................................................................A2.12

Inspection Results
Evaluation Guideline.....................................................................................A2.13
Accept / Reject Procedure.............................................................................A2.13
Reporting.......................................................................................................A2.14

Appendix
Defect Classification.....................................................................................A2.15
Fabric Inspection Worksheet.........................................................................A2.17
Fabric Inspection Report...............................................................................A2.1
Introducción

Propósito
El propósito de este Manual de inspección de materiales es:
• Proporcionar una guía a la fábrica para evaluar y clasificar la calidad de
entrada de las materias primas que se utilizarán para la indumentaria NIKE.
• Comunicar las expectativas de calidad de NIKE.
• Ayudar a la fábrica a detectar defectos y evitar que la materia prima de
calidad inferior entre en el producto terminado.
• Proporcionar un marco de capacitación para inspectores.
• Promover la comunicación entre la fábrica y el proveedor para resolver
problemas de calidad.
• Ayude a desarrollar el Informe de calidad del proveedor (VQR).

May 1999 Manual de inspección de materiales A2.1

Preparación para la inspección

Requisitos de inspección

La fábrica debe realizar la inspección de materiales dentro de los 7 días

posteriors a la recepción del envoi y resolver los problemas de calidad de
manera oportuna.

Area
El área de inspección debe ser:
• Abierto, limpio y seco
• Bien iluminado
• En condiciones de temperature y humedad controladas. La temperature de
trabajo acceptable es entre 20°C y 28°C.

Equipment
• Marco de inspección: El marco debe estar equipado con un
variador de velocidad, un Contador de yardas (o metros), una
luz del tren de aterrizaje para ver a través de la construcción y
una luz superior para inspeccionar la superficie de la tela.
• Velocidad de inspección: El marco debe poder corer hasta 30
yardas por minute (27 metros por minute) y debe tener
controles de avance y retroceso.
• Distancia de visualización: La inspección debe realizarse desde una
distancia de observación de 2 a 4 pies (60 a 120 centímetros) para obtener
una version complete del ancho de la tela.
• Iluminación: Se recomienda una iluminación fluorescente blanca fría
(CWF) para la inspección. El nivel de iluminación de la superficie debe ser
de un mínimo de 1075 lux (velas de 100 pies).

Velocidad variable
Iluminación del tren de aterrizaje con intensidad ajustable

May 1999 Materials Inspection Manual A2.3

 Yard / Meter Counter

A2.4 Materials Inspection Manual May 1999

 Caja de luz y sala de color
Cada fábrica debe tener una caja de luz internacional equipada con :

Fuente de luz Tipo de luz

Fuente de luz primaria D 65 (6500K) luz diurna promedio

Fuente de luz secundaria CWF (4150K)

Fuente de luz terciaria A (2856 K) tungsteno

La caja de luz debe estar en una sala cerrada y acondicionada sin interferencia
de la luz exterior. Las paredes de la habitación deben pintarse de gris neutron. El
colorista de la oficina de enlace de NIKE o el personal de integridad de
productos de indumentaria (API) pueden proporcionar información sobre la
selección y configuración correctas de la caja de luz.

May 1999 Materials Inspection Manual A2.5

A2.4 Materials Inspection Manual May 1999
May 1999 Materials Inspection Manual A2.7
A2.4 Materials Inspection Manual May 1999
May 1999 Materials Inspection Manual A2.9
Caja de luz en una habitación acondicionada, o área protegida con cortinas negras.

Nota: Las marcas de cajas de luz sugeridas son:

• Verivide CAC
• MacBeth Judge II
• Datacolor TruVue
Suggested Bulb Specifications for D65 and TL84 are:
• D65 = GE 6500K made by General Electric
• TL84 = TL80-F40T8/TL841 made by Phillips.

ON L ART OFF 84 DAY

003 62 5

A2.4 Materials Inspection Manual May 1999

 Herramientas
• Cinta métrica
• Tijeras
• Stickers/etiquetas de defectos

• Formularios de inspección

Cinta métrica Tijeras Stickers

Muestra de referencia de tela

La fábrica debe recibir una muestra de referencia de tela del proveedor para cada
artículo y color solicitado. Esta muestra debe ser utilizada por la fábrica para
verificar el color, la mano y la apariencia. Los pedidos posteriores del mismo
artículo/color utilizarán la muestra original.
Note: La fábrica DEBE solcitar esta muestra de referencia al proveedor in la
orden de compra.

Esta muestra de referencia debe almacenarse adecuadamente para su uso en

comparación de calidad. Mantenga una carpeta de muestras limpia con la
información adecuada, como el nombre del proveedor, el número de artículo, el
nombre del color, la fecha de recepción, el número de lote y cualquier otra
información relevante.
La muestra debe conservarse mientras el element permanezca activo.

May 1999 Materials Inspection Manual A2.1

 Muestra de referencia de tela

A2.4 Materials Inspection Manual May 1999

May 1999 Materials Inspection Manual A2.1
Procedimiento de inspección

Plan de muestreo

El plan de muestreo que se proporciona a continuación proporciona una guía para

determiner el tamaño de la muestra de inspección. Aunque NIKE recomienda una
inspección mímina del 10% por color dentro de cada envío, cada fábrica puede
inspeccionar más según sus necesidades y recursos.

TELAS TEJIDAS
Metros Porcentaje a inspeccionar
Menos de Un rollo o 10%
1,800 metros (el que sea mayor)

Inspección del 10%

1,801 - 18,000 metros

Inspección del 5%
18,001 - 46,000 meters

Inspección del 3%
46,001 metros

KNIT FABRICS (Circular knit / Warp knit)

Yards / Meters Percent to Inspect
Less than 2,000 Yards One roll or 10%
(1,800 meters) (whichever is greater)

2,001 to 5,000 Yards 10 % Inspection

(1,801 - 4,600 meters)

5,001 to 20,000 Yards 5 % Inspection

(4,601 meters - 18,000 meters)

Over 20,001 Yards 3 % Inspection

(18,001 meters)

The number of rolls inspected should be rounded off to the next whole roll.
Always inspect a complete roll.
Example:
If the rolls from one color total 24 rolls, and each roll averages
100 yards (90 meters),
Then total yardage = 2400 yards (2160 meters).
If 10% of the rolls are to be inspected,
10% of 24 rolls = 2.4 rolls, round off to 3
rolls. So inspect about 300 yards (270 meters).

May 1999 Materials Inspection Manual A2.7

 Roll Selection
Randomly select the number of rolls needed for inspection by color. If there is
more than one dye lot per color, the random sampling should be taken across the
dye lots available.

Rolls should be neatly rolled, wrapped in polyethylene, clearly labelled, and properly sealed.

Shipment Information
Verify shipment information to ensure shipment accuracy and note any
discrepancies on the inspection report. Note the following information:
• Item Number/Dye Shade Number
• Width
• Linear Yards
• Vendor Inspection Report
• Spectrophotometer Color Reading (if available)
• Physical Test Report
• Other Information as needed

Check:
Number of lots
Number of rolls
Yards (Meters) per color

A2.8 Materials Inspection Manual May 1999

Color and Aesthetics

Cut a head-end sample across the width of the fabric, preferably about 2 yards
inside one of the selected rolls. This sample will be used for color and aesthetic
verification.

Color
1. Color Standard. Check the head-end sample in the light box against the
fabric reference sample under both D65 and TL84 light source. This should
be done once for each color inspected.

2. Shading within the roll. Check for shading at the beginning, in the middle
and at the end of each roll inspected, using the head-end sample for
comparison.
• Side to center
• Side to side
• End to end

May 1999 Materials Inspection Manual A2.9

 3. Color Continuity Card. Check for color consistency between the rolls. Cut a
small sample (about 2 x 2 inches or 5 x 5 centimeters) from the left side, the
center and the right side of each inspected roll and attach to the color
continuity card. Check the samples against the fabric reference sample.
Note any significant variation of shade from roll to roll.

Aesthetics
Inspect overall hand and appearance against the fabric reference sample for
cleanliness, texture, recovery, drape, resilience, wrinkling, etc.

If the color and/or the aesthetics do not match the sample, record the
discrepancy and contact the vendor for resolution. The factory should continue
with the visual inspection for the recording of defects even if the inspection has
been rejected for color and/or aesthetics. The factory will determine how the
shipment can best meet their production needs without causing quality problems
in the finished product.

A2.10 Materials Inspection Manual May 1999

Visual Inspection

Once the color and aesthetics have been checked, begin the visual inspection for
defects. Defects which are not desirable and are clearly detectable on the
inspection frame will be assigned points as shown in the Four Point Table. The
Four Point system will be applied to all fabrics, i.e. woven, circular knit and
warp knit.
Always inspect the side which will be used as the face in the finished garment.
Mount the roll on the inspection frame with the face side up.

Fabric Width
Measure the cuttable width at the beginning, in the middle, and at the end of
every roll. If a variation in cuttable width is found, the factory will determine if
the fabric is usable and if a replacement is necessary. At this point, the inspector
should also check the condition of the selvedges. The selvedges should lay flat,
be free of tension, and should not have a tendency to curl.

May 1999 Materials Inspection Manual A2.11

 Roll Length
Measure and record the length of each roll inspected.

A2.12 Materials Inspection Manual May 1999

 Inspection for Defects
Start the frame and inspect for defects. Run the frame at 20  5 yards per minute
(18  5 meters per minute). If a defect is observed:

1. Classify the defect and assign the appropriate points based on the severity of
the defect. The severity is determined by the type and the length of the
defect
- see point table below and defect classification listed on page A2.15.

Four Point Table

Vertical Defects Horizontal Defects

(along the length) (along the width)

Length Points Length Points

0.1 to 3.0 in (0.1 to 8.0 cm) 1 0.1 to 3.0 in (0.1 to 8.0 cm) 1

3.1 to 6.0 in (8.1 to 15.0 cm) 2 3.1 to 6.0 in (8.1 to 15.0 cm) 2

6.1 to 9.0 in (15.1 to 23.0 cm) 3 6.1 to 9.0 in (15.1 to 23.0 cm) 3

9.1 to 36.0 in (23.1 to 92.0 cm) 4 9.1 to full width (above 23.1 cm) 4

Note:
• A maximum of 4 points may be assigned to any one linear yard, regardless
of the number or size of the individual defects.
• For a continuous lengthwise running defect, 4 points will be assigned to
each linear yard where the defect exceeds 9 inches (23 centimeters).

2. Mark the defect at the selvage and/or at the defect.

3. Record the defect and the assigned points on the inspection worksheet.

May 1999 Materials Inspection Manual A2.13

Inspection Results

Complete the worksheet and calculate the total points of inspected rolls and the
total of the inspected yards. With this information use the appropriate formula
below to calculate the Average Points (per 100 yards or 90 meters).

Total Points of inspected rolls

Average Points / 100 Yards = x 100
Total Inspected Yards
or
Total Points of inspected rolls
Average Points / 90 Meters = x 90
Total Inspected Meters

The average points (per 100 yards or 90 meters) of inspected fabric will be
compared to the standard below for acceptability.

Evaluation Guideline

NIKE will evaluate a vendor’s quality performance based on the point count
system, using the following guideline:

Fabric Type Allowable Points per 100

yards (90 meters)

Woven Fabric 20

Warp Knit Fabric 20

Knit Fabrics (Open width Or Tubular) 25

Note: This criteria is subject to change at NIKE’s discretion.

Accept / Reject Procedure

The decision to use a shipment is at the discretion of the factory. The factory
will determine how the shipment can best meet their production needs without
causing quality problems in the finished product. The shipment will be
considered acceptable and should not be returned to the vendor if NIKE’s
standards have been met. However, the factory may decide to use a shipment
even if the average points per 100 yards (90 meters) shows a higher number than
allowed on the NIKE evaluation guideline above. The decision to accept the
shipment, in this case, would be appropriate if the factory can meet NIKE’s
finished product requirements using such a shipment. The factory is responsible
for the quality of the finished product.
The Factory will communicate quality issues directly to the vendor with
supporting facts such as the inspection report and the defective samples. The
factory will keep all records for NIKE’s review. The records must be kept for
two years.

May 1999 Materials Inspection Manual A2.13

Reporting

The inspection is intended to determine the shipment quality and to capture

information for quality performance evaluation of the vendor. One Inspection
Report should be completed for each color inspected. Multiple dye lots of one
color should be included on one Inspection Report. The Factory will submit all
inspection results to NIKE weekly, as instructed by the NIKE Liaison Office.
NIKE will use this information to generate a Vendor Quality Report (VQR).
This report will be shared with the vendor for quality improvements and
performance evaluations.

A2.14 Materials Inspection Manual May 1999