Documentos de Académico
Documentos de Profesional
Documentos de Cultura
BMF 2021
BOGOTÁ MADRID FUSIÓN
CÁMARA DE COMERCIO DE BOGOTÁ
Canales de Divulgación —
Líder
Catalina Agudelo Diseño
Tangrama
Equipo
Andrés Felipe Osorio, Ricardo
Alarcón, Carolina Rodríguez, Roberto
Carrasquilla, Jeisson Caro, Cartel
Urbano
Comunicaciones Internas
Diego Rincón
JUNTA DIRECTIVA
CÁMARA DE COMERCIO DE BOGOTÁ
Coordinación general
Paula Ocampo
Contenido
RAMÓN FREIXA / 70
Restaurante Ramón Freixa Madrid
NAJAAT KAANACHE / 82
Restaurante Nur
Bogotá Madrid Fusión, una nueva oportunidad
Bogotá Madrid Fusión
Esta edición de Bogotá Madrid Fusión fue una nueva oportunidad para visibili-
zar a nuestro país como destino gastronómico biodiverso. En los últimos años
Colombia ha visto nacer proyectos muy sólidos impulsados por propuestas
culinarias innovadoras que, además de posicionar al país a nivel internacional,
han permitido rescatar y darles valor a tradiciones, sabores y saberes ances-
trales ligados a nuestra identidad. La presencia de cocineros internacionales
en este espacio de encuentro permitió, además del intercambio cultural, la
promoción de procesos de innovación en toda la cadena gastronómica y el
impulso a variados emprendimientos y propuestas.
Acurio ha publicado diferentes libros, entre ellos Perú, Una Aventura Culinaria,
Larousse de la Gastronomía Peruana, 500 Años de Fusión, elegido en el 2008
por la Gourmand World Cookbook como el mejor libro del mundo en colabo-
ración sobre gastronomía; Cebiche Power, Edén.pe: 21 revelaciones para el
mundo, escrito con Ignacio Medina y Ferran Adrià; Perú: The Cookbook, elabo-
rado junto a la reconocida casa editorial Phaidon; Bitute: el Sabor de Lima, libro
en el que, junto al periodista gastronómico Javier Masías, investiga y recopila
preparaciones de antiguos recetarios peruanos; Sazón en Acción, y Bravazo,
el último publicado en otros países latinoamericanos como “Buenazo”, libro
popular donde recopila 600 recetas caseras peruanas.
Two years after living and studying in Madrid, he travels to Paris, enrolls at the
Cordon Bleu and meets Astrid Gutsche, his future wife. In 1994, a year after his
return to Lima, he founded his first restaurant: Astrid & Gastón.
Years go by and the horizons widen. There are Astrid & Gastón branches
in Chile, Colombia, Mexico and Spain; the creation and expansion of other
brands such as La Mar, Tanta, Panchita, Chicha, Madam Tusan, Bachiche
and Papacho’s, and recognition of Astrid & Gastón among the top twenty
restaurants in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants for three consecutive years,
and in 2nd and 15th places for Astrid & Gastón and La Mar, respectively, in
the Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants awards, which consolidates Acurio as
a successful restaurateur, present in 9 countries with 12 brands and over 45
restaurants.
Acurio has published several books, including Perú, una aventura culinaria
[Perú, a Culinary Adventure]; Larousse de la Gastronomía Peruana [Larousse
of Peruvian Gastronomy]; 500 Años de Fusión [500 Years of Fusion], elected
in 2008 by the Gourmand World Cookbook as best gastronomic book; Cebiche
Power; Edén.pe: 21 revelaciones para el mundo [Eden.pe: 21 Revelations for
Bogotá Madrid Fusión
the World], written with Ignacio Medina and Ferran Adrià; Perú: The Cookbook,
published by the renowned publishing house Phaidon; Bitute: el sabor de Lima
[Bitute: Lima’s Flavor], where, alongside gastronomic journalist Javier Masías,
searches and collects preparations of ancient Peruvian cookbooks; Sazón en
Acción [Seasoning in Action], and Bravazo, published in other Latin American
countries as Buenazo, a popular book that compiles 600 Peruvian home
recipes.
In 2007, Acurio also explored the field of education, founding the first school
of chefs and waiters for low-income youth in Pachacútec, Ventanilla, Callao.
That same year, he founded APEGA, the Peruvian Society of Gastronomy, with
which one year later he organized the first International Gastronomic Fair of
Lima, later renamed “Mistura”, one of the most popular gastronomic fairs in
Latin America.
Throughout his career, Acurio has received several awards, among them
Entrepreneur of the Year by the magazine América Económica in 2005; the
Prince Claus of Holland Award in the category “Collective memoirs and jour-
nalism” and was named Ambassador of Good Will for UNICEF in 2009. He also
won the World Gastronomy Award in Sweden in 2013, for his work promoting
sustainable cooking, the use of local resources and the Pachacutec School, and
received a Lifetime Achievement Award from Latin America’s 50 Best. In 2014,
he was honored by his Alma Mater, Le Cordon Bleu, in Paris.
Currently, Gastón Acurio is gastronomic director of Astrid & Gastón and the rest
of his restaurants. He continues to create new brands, the most recent being El
Bodegón and Barra Chalaca, in Lima, and Yakumanka, in Barcelona. He travels
to promote Peruvian cuisine, and is working with the Pontificia Universidad
Católica del Perú to create the country’s first gastronomic university.
Dumpling de pota & erizo
La pasión y sensibilidad del chef, sus raíces culturales, vínculo con el entorno
y sus productos, y el recetario culinario tradicional vasco, han sido y siguen
siendo los fundamentos de cada una
Bogotá Madrid Fusión
His passion and sensitivity, his cultural roots, his bond with the environment
and its produce, and with traditional Basque cooking have been – and still
are – the cornerstones of his creations. All this is done in an attempt to create
pleasure, achieve excellence, generate value, share wealth and knowledge; in
As a result, Eneko Atxa’s cooking is pure flavour, his food is filled with depth, it is
succulent and identity-based, balancing tradition and the avant-garde in order
to make the gastronomic experience at his restaurants a tribute to the senses.
Talo de pescado del día
Bogotá Madrid Fusión
INGREDIENTES PREPARACIÓN
ACABADO Y PRESENTACIÓN
Manuel
Barrientos
Restaurante Elcielo
(Medellín, Antioquia, Colombia)
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Juan Manuel Barrientos Valencia nació en Medellín el 16 de junio de 1983.
Es cocinero, empresario, conferencista y líder de paz, con más de doce restau-
rantes, bares y discotecas a su nombre. Entre ellos, es fundador de la cadena
de restaurantes Elcielo (Medellín, Bogotá, Miami, Washington D.C.), y otros
establecimientos como Elcielo Classic, La Serenissima, Cuon, Kai, Shibari,
Aguafresca, Cerdología y AO Asia Tropical.
Ha sido reconocido como el chef más joven en los “50 Best” de Latinoamérica
por tres años consecutivos, y en el 2016 formó parte del exclusivo listado de
The World’s Best Chef. Actualmente tiene en Medellín un taller creativo, com-
puesto por cerca de 30 colaboradores, donde crea más de trescientos platos
cada año y se desarrollan todos los procesos gastronómicos y de servicios que
hacen parte de Elcielo Hospitality Group.
Elcielo fue seleccionado como caso de estudio del INALDE Business School de
la Universidad de La Sabana. Así mismo, este caso de éxito se convirtió en un
libro de Ernesto Barrera Duque, profesor de Innovación, y publicado por IESE
de Barcelona, una de las mejores escuelas de negocios del mundo.
At just 34, he was invited by former President of the United States, Barack
Obama, to speak at the Global Entrepreneurship Summit, one of the most
important entrepreneurship meetings in the world. He also advises companies
on creativity and innovation and helps them redesign their DNA.
Twelve years ago, he set up his Foundation that promotes non-violence and
trains soldiers wounded in combat, ex-guerrillas, indigenous people and
victims, sharing its activities with over seven Nobel Peace Prize winners.
The Elcielo restaurant was chosen as a case study by the INALDE Business
School at the Universidad de La Sabana as a success story, written up by
Ernesto Barrera Duque, professor of Innovation, and published by the IESE in
Barcelona (Spain), one of the best business schools in the world.
On 22 April, 2021, Juan Manuel Barrientos and his team won a Michelin star
for the restaurant Elcielo in Washington DC – the first Colombian restaurant
with this distinction. Juan Manuel Barrientos also won the CEAJE VXII Award
for the category of Ibero-American Entrepreneur of the Year 2019 – Accesit
Empresario Iberoamericano – presented by Ceaje (Spanish Confederation of
Young Entrepreneurs) at the Palacio de Cibeles at Madrid’s City Hall (Spain), an
award given to entrepreneurs under 41.
Ceviche de Langosta o de pesca blanca y frutos
Bogotá Madrid Fusión
DESCRIPCIÓN GENERAL
GENERAL DESCRIPTION
A fillet or serving of lobster, scallops or fish, cured in a mixture of salt and sugar
for 15 minutes, with vinaigrette or tomatillo juice, served with tropical fruit
gelée (for example, Colombian fruits such as tomate de árbol, passion fruit or
lulo) and coconut foam.
• Arrange the slices of the chosen seafood or fish – scallops, lobster or catch
of the day – and add a little Maldon salt and black pepper. Next, add a ring
of pickled shallot, three dots of the gelée of your choice (passion fruit,
tomate de árbol or lulo). Decorate with mustard sprouts, three pieces of
avocado and three pieces of rutabaga – in Colombia the original recipe calls
for yacón (an Andean tuber). Serve in a deep bowl with tomatillo juice. It
can also be served in small portions as a canapé or on a spoon or shell – as
shown in the photo – to be eaten in one bite.
• The ingredients in the tomatillo juice: tomatillos, garlic, a little ginger, salt,
pepper and onion. Blend until smooth and then sieve.
• To make the fruit gelée: sieve the fruit juice through a very fine sieve. Mix
the juice with agar-agar (2% of the weight of the juice). Blend and heat to
80ºC (176ºF) for 4 minutes. Leave to cool until set. Blend the gel and sieve
again to achieve the consistency of a gelée.
• Coconut foam: Combine coconut milk, salt and sugar and pour into a siphon,
or use just coconut cream.
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Davide
Bogotá Madrid Fusión
Caranchini
Restaurante Materia
(Cernobbio, Italia)
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Nacido en 1990, Davide Caranchini es el chef y propietario del restaurante
Materia, en Cernobbio, y ha sido un apasionado por la cocina desde la infancia.
His passion for cooking started in childhood, and later impelled him to join the
culinary school of Como.
INGREDIENTES PREPARACIÓN
INGREDIENTS PREPARATION
Pickled red cabbage: • For the pickled red cabbage: Slice the
• 1 red cabbage cabbage in fine juliennes. Mix with the salt
• 1,5 l. apple vinegar
and marinate overnight in the fridge. The
• 375 g. red wine vinegar
• 675 g. sugar morning after, rinse under fresh water, drain
Smoked marrow: and dry with paper towels.
• 100 g. veal marrow • Mix the rest of the ingredient in a pot and
• Cherry wood chips bring to a boil. Meanwhile, fill sterilized
Bitter almond milk: glass jars with the salted sliced cabbage,
• 500 g. bitter almonds
leaving 1 cm free on top. Once the pickling
• 1 l. mineral water
To finish: liquid boils, pour it into the jars, covering the
• 20 g. Caviar Maldon salt cabbage. Seal tightly and leave upside down
to cool at room temperature. Store in a dark,
dry and cool place for at least one month.
• For the smoked marrow: Put the deboned
marrow in a tall container and cover with
ice and water. Leave to bleed for 12 h. Drain
and dry with paper towels. On the bottom of
a smoking tray ignite a 1 cm. layer of cherry
wood chips and, once it starts smoking,
put the marrow inside on a perforated tray.
Cover with a lid and smoke for 5 min, take
out and blast chill immediately. Refrigerate
for later use.
• For the bitter almond milk: Put the almond
in a tall container and cover with water.
After refrigerating for 12 h., blitz to a fine
puree, pour in a superbag and press to
extract most of the liquid. Discard the solids
and refrigerate the drained liquid (“milk”).
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• To finish: Drain the cabbage from the
pickling liquid. Slice the marrow in 0,5
cm. strips, put a little salt and heat in the
oven at 200°C (392°F) for 3 min. Dress the
cabbage with some bitter almond milk and
the melted fat from the smoked marrow.
Serve a spoonful of dressed cabbage on
the bottom of a shallow plate, add 5 slices
of smoked marrow, and cover with another
spoonful of dressed cabbage. Finish by top-
ping everything with 4 g of caviar.
José Luis
Bogotá Madrid Fusión
Cotes
Gutiérrez
Restaurante Mantequilla
(Riohacha, La Guajira, Colombia)
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Dialogar sobre comida con José Luis Cotes Gutiérrez es entregarse a un deleite
de palabras con sabor autóctono. Popularmente conocido como ‘Mantequilla’,
se describe de manera serena y segura, mientras está sentado en la nueva
sede de su restaurante: “José Luis Cotes es un cocinero nacido y criado en
Riohacha, interesado en la buena comida, y soy un convencido que para cono-
cer lo bueno hay que conocer lo malo. Eso reflejado en la comida quiere decir
que, para potenciar mi comida, tuve que formarme como cocinero y aprender
nuevas técnicas de preparación y conservación”.
sabor a familia”.
En José Luis influye, como ser humano, un concepto que para él es especial-
mente hermoso: la comensalidad. Con un tono técnico, explica que puede
haber comensalidad aun en ausencia de mesa, y que existen muchas formas
de comer. “Es una palabra que me gusta y escucho poco. Siempre trato de
comer y compartir, en mi casa siempre se hizo comida abundante; nací para
compartir mi conocimiento y cada cosa que investigo de cocina la comparto
de alguna u otra manera en clases, conversaciones, eventos, publicaciones y
escritos; creo que es un designio divino que siempre esté rodeado de comida
abundante. Los guajiros somos buenos anfitriones y bondadosos con la
comida; en casa de un guajiro siempre hay presa para el que llega”.
INGREDIENTES PREPARACIÓN
A traditional sauce made as a stew with corozo milk (from the fruit of either of
two palm trees called Corua and Tamaca). These peculiar fruits are eaten by
cows and, when they have been digested and expelled, are collected by local
farmers who crack them open to extract the corozo—or nuts—that are then
broken up and ground. Next, they are soaked and squeezed to extract the milk.
INGREDIENTS PREPARATION
• Pork or chicken • Crack and grind the corozo nuts, then leave
• Corozo nuts (Tamaca or Corua, to soak in plenty of water.
Corua is sweeter)
• To obtain the milk, put the broken nuts in a
• Habanero peppers
• Scallions/spring onions clean cloth and twist tightly. Chop the other
• Garlic ingredients finely (except the meat) and add
• Achiote to a pan with the corozo milk. After com-
• Vinegar ing to a boil, cook for 5 minutes, and add
• Salt and pepper the meat (you can use pork, goat, chicken,
guacarote – a kind of catfish – etc.). Put
an achiotero (small gourd with tiny holes
used to infuse achiote into a dish) into the
pan and cook until the meat or fish has the
desired consistency.
• Check seasonings and serve.
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Alberto
Ferruz
Moraleda
Restaurante BonAmb
(Xávia, España)
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El 1º de junio de 1984 nace en la localidad zaragozana de Cariñena Alberto
Ferruz Moraleda. El dicho “se crió entre fogones” es totalmente cierto en su
caso, pues con tan solo 12 años ya trabajaba en el restaurante La Bodega, de
propiedad de un tío suyo. Esta vocación le llevó a cursar estudios de Hostelería
en el IES de Miralbueno en Zaragoza.
El año 2016 será siempre recordado por todo el equipo de BonAmb, y por
supuesto por Alberto Ferruz, ya que el 23 de noviembre la Guía Michelin le
adjudica la segunda estrella al restaurante. Y justo un año después la guía
Repsol le otorga su máxima distinción, consagrando así la meteórica ascensión
del Chef Ferruz y BonAmb, que en tan solo seis años cuentan con dos Estrellas
Michelin y tres Soles Repsol.
A partir del año 2020 se suma un nuevo reto para Alberto y todo su equipo:
reabrir el histórico restaurante Casa Pepa en Ondara, aumentando así la familia
del Grupo BonAmb y comenzando un nuevo derrotero gastronómico con reno-
vada pasión, ilusión y trabajo.
He was born on June 1st, 1984, in Cariñena, a town in the province of Zaragoza.
The saying “he grew up in the kitchen” is totally true in his case because, when
he was only 12, he was already working in his uncle’s restaurant La Bodega.
This vocation led him to study Hospitality and Catering at the IES Miralbueno
School, in Zaragoza.
Soon after, in order to develop his interests, he decided to leave his home
region to study at the El Txoko del Gourmet cooking school in San Sebastián.
He spent almost three years in the Basque Country alongside one of the best
chefs in Spain, Martín Berasategui. Later on, eager to continue growing, he
went abroad and worked for almost two years at the prestigious Parisian
restaurant Taillevent.
After returning to Spain, Alberto collaborated for a season with chef Quique
Dacosta before starting his own adventure at BonAmb Restaurant. At only 23,
he became head chef of the haute-cuisine restaurant at the Marriott Hotel in
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Denia and, although so young, represented Alicante cuisine at the prestigious
Best of Gastronomy congress in San Sebastián.
Along with BonAmb Restaurant, Alberto Ferruz kept on evolving and inno-
vating; rewards came in 2014 in the form of a Michelin Star and a Repsol Sun
awarded by the eponymous guides. This positioned Alberto and the restaurant
on the gastronomic map in Valencia and Spain, and along came invitations to
many events and speaking engagements at prestigious venues.
2016 will always be remembered by the entire team and, of course, by Alberto
Ferruz because on November 23rd the Michelin Guide awarded his restaurant a
second star. Just a year later the Repsol guide awarded him its highest dis-
tinction, thus consecrating the meteoric rise of Alberto and BonAmb, who had
received in just six years two Michelin Stars and three Repsol Suns.
Starting in 2020 Alberto and his team assumed a new challenge as they
reopened the iconic restaurant Casa Pepa in Ondara, Alicante. The family of
the BonAmb Group thus grew, and began a new gastronomic path, filled with
passion, enthusiasm and work.
Esencia de tomates fermentados al sereno
Bogotá Madrid Fusión
INGREDIENTES PREPARACIÓN
Uva de mar
• c.s. de uva de mar
EMPLATADO
Otros
• Oxalis • Disponer un punto central grande de cremoso
• Gotas de aceite de tomate y dos pequeños a los lados.
• Banana de playa • Situar alrededor, como en anillo, berbere-
chos, bígaros, cañaillas y uva de mar.
• Regar con el ponzu de tomate.
Essence of tomatoes fermented in the open...
Bogotá Madrid Fusión
INGREDIENTS PREPARATION
En 2007 comenzó su periplo alrededor del mundo. Tras su primera etapa como
jefe de pastelería junior en el Zirbelstube de Stuttgart, se fue a España, primero
a la chocolatería Oriol Balaguer de Barcelona y después directamente a un
restaurante con tres estrellas Michelín, el Akelarre de San Sebastián. Siguieron
estancias en Suiza (en el restaurante Lampart’s, dos estrellas Michelín) y en
Francia (en el restaurante Georges Blanc, tres estrellas Michelín), antes de
irse a Japón durante seis meses (donde trabajó, entre otros, en el Nihon Ryori
RyuGin de Tokio, tres estrellas Michelín). Su formación de la mano de Alain
Ducasse en París y su asistencia a cursos en el Culinary Institute of America en
Nueva York y en el valle de Napa terminaron de afinar sus habilidades. René
Frank es “como sus platos, todo muy profesional, pero siempre con un brillo
especial” (Rolling Pin, 2013).
Bogotá Madrid Fusión
Born in 1984 in Wangen, in the Allgäu region, René Frank completed his training
as a chef in 2004 and for 6 years was Head Pastry Chef in one of the best restau-
rants in Europe, la vie, in Osnabrück, awarded three Michelin stars since 2012.
He was decorated as Pastry Chef of the Year by Gault Millau, 2103, and Busche
Verlag, in 2016. Currently he runs Germany’s first dessert restaurant, CODA, in
Berlin, which he co-founded with Oliver Bischoff. Shortly after opening, CODA
won “Best Gastronomic Concept of the Year 2016” in the Rolling Pin awards
In Helsinki, in 2005, René Frank won the gold medal in the WorldSkills
Professional World Championship. In 2007, he decided to travel the world
and, after a first stint as a Junior Head Pastry Chef in Zirbelstube, in Stuttgart,
he went to Spain to the Oriol Balaguer chocolaterie, in Barcelona, and then
directly to a three Michelin star restaurant, Akelarre, in San Sebastian. There
followed positions in Switzerland (the two Michelin star Restaurant Lampart‘s)
and in France (the three Michelin star Georges Blanc) before he went to Japan
for six months (where he worked, among others, in the three Michelin star
Nihon Ryori RyuGin, Tokyo). Courses with Alain Ducasse in Paris and at the
Culinary Institute of America in New York and Napa Valley rounded off his
skills. As Rolling Pin stated in 2013: he is “like his dishes, professional, but
always with a twinkle in his eye.”
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Remolacha • Arándanos • Tofu sedoso • Limón
Bogotá Madrid Fusión
INGREDIENTES PREPARACIÓN
PARA SERVIR
• 40 g. lime juice ents and fill and chill them on a tray or fill
• Pinch grated zest of an
little round silicon moulds to obtain small
unwaxed lime
bullets. If using silicon moulds, jelly has to
Verjus jelly be frozen before removing from the mould.
• 250 g. verjus Subsequently defreeze them on a tray.
• 80 g. apple syrup • For the crispy beetroot layers: mix all
• 1,4 g. agar agar ingredients in a food processor and spread
• 1g. Carob
them on a silicon mat. Dehydrate until
Crispy beet root
crispy and shape while hot. Store in an air-
• 190 g. cooked beetroot tight container.
• 124 g. raspberries (fresh • For the honey cake: melt butter in a pot.
or frozen) Combine with milk, honey, and sugar. Mix
• 110 g. maple syrup in the eggs with a hand blender. Fold in the
• 0,5 g. salt
remaining ingredients. Bake in an ovenproof
• 60 g. overripe banana
dish at 140°C (284°F) for 25 min. or until
Honey-cake cooked. When cold, break or cut the cake in
• 125 g. butter pieces. Dehydrate the pieces until crispy.
• 125 g. milk
• 375 g. honey
• 75 g. muscovado sugar
TO SERVE
• 75 g. fresh egg
• 300 g. rice flour
• 15 g. baking powder • Give the sorbet a shell shape by pressing a
• 2,5 g. salt scoop of sorbet between two soup ladles (6
to 7 cm. in diameter) frozen in liquid nitro-
gen. Keep the sorbet shells at -30°C until
serving.
• Fill the shell with three pieces of the mari-
nated cranberries and two globes of beet-
root, place in a pre-frozen plate. Cover the
shell with the tofu foam, dehydrated honey
cake and crispy beetroot. Finally, arrange
on top the verjus jelly, beetroot globes and
marinated cranberries. Serve immediately.
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Ramón
Freixa
Restaurante Ramón Freixa Madrid
(Madrid, España)
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Chef catalán, dirige el restaurante Ramón Freixa Madrid (ubicado en Hotel
Único), galardonado con dos estrellas Michelin y tres Soles Repsol. También
en la capital de España, en la sexta planta de The Principal Madrid, se encuen-
tra Ático (un Sol Repsol), con impresionantes vistas del comienzo de la Gran
Vía madrileña. A estos restaurantes se unen Mas de Torrent en el hotel del
mismo nombre en el Ampurdán, Erre en la ciudad colombiana de Cartagena de
Indias, y HOLA! Tapas Bar y Ocean Cay a bordo de barcos de la compañía MSC
Cruceros. Todos ellos son diferentes en su concepto, pero están unidos por
unos orígenes mediterráneos siempre presentes.
Sabor y felicidad van de la mano para Ramón Freixa, como expresa en estas
palabras: “Trabajo desde la tradición y experimento para crear nuevas recetas
que sorprendan y, sobre todo, que gusten, porque la cocina es gusto. Sabor.
Y ¿por qué cocino? Porque es una manera de hacer feliz a la gente”.
This Catalan chef heads the Ramón Freixa Madrid restaurant that boasts two
Bogotá Madrid Fusión
Michelin stars and three Repsol Suns, located in the Hotel Único. Also located
in Madrid is Ático, with one Repsol Sun, on the sixth floor of The Principal Hotel
with magnificent views of the beginning of the Gran Vía. Other restaurants
under his management include Mas de Torrent in the hotel of the same name,
in Empordá; Erre in the Colombian city of Cartagena de Indias; and HOLA!
Tapas Bar and Ocean Cay on the high seas on MSC cruise ships. Each restau-
rant has a unique concept while being rooted in Mediterranean flavours.
y crestas
INGREDIENTES PREPARACIÓN
(Receta para 4 personas)
• Caldo de pato: Tostar las carcasas de ave
Caldo de pato en un horno precalentado a 200ºC.
• 5 carcasas de pato
• Limpiar todas las verduras, pelar y cortar en
• 5 carcasas de pollo
• 1 cebolla trozos regulares de 1 cm.
• 1 zanahoria • En una olla, cocinar a fuego lento durante
• 1 puerro 10 min todas las verduras menos el tomate
• 1 cabeza de ajo con el aceite de oliva, añadir el tomate y
• 2 tomates cocinar otros 10 min a fuego lento.
• 20 g de aceite de oliva
• Añadir las carcasas de ave previamente
Salsa de pato doradas y cubrir con agua caliente.
• 400 g de caldo de pato • Cocer durante 3 h a fuego lento.
• 35 g de mantequilla • Colar, mantener en frío para que la grasa se
solidifique y retirarla.
Setas de temporada • Salsa de pato: En una olla metálica
• 120 g de setas de verano
pequeña, añadir el caldo de pato y reducir
Crestas de gallo hasta la mitad para obtener un caldo de
• 120 g de crestas de gallo confi- sabor concentrado.
tadas en aceite • Retirar del fuego y añadir la mantequilla fría.
Mover con varilla hasta que esta se integre
Dados de espárrago blanco por completo en la salsa.
• 120 g de tallos de espárrago
• Setas de temporada: Limpiar las setas con
blanco
agua fría y retirar toda la tierra que puedan
Salteado de colmenillas, setas contener.
y espárrago blanco • Cortar en trozos irregulares y reservar.
• 120 g de crestas de gallo • Crestas de gallo: Escurrir las crestas y
confitadas cortarlas del mismo tamaño que las setas
• 120 g de setas de verano pre-
de verano.
viamente cortadas
• 120 g de dados de espárrago • Dados de espárrago blanco: Pelar los espá-
• 50 g de salsa de pato rragos con ayuda de un pelador.
• 15 g de aceite de oliva • Cortar en dados de 0,5 cm aprox. Reservar
• 1 g de sal entre papel húmedo para que no se oxiden.
• 1 g de pimienta negra molida
Crema de espárrago blanco • Salteado de colmenillas, setas y espá-
ACABADO Y PRESENTACIÓN
cockscombs
INGREDIENTS PREPARATION
(Serves 4)
• Duck stock: Roast the carcasses in an oven
For the duck stock preheated to 200ºC (392ºF).
• 5 duck carcasses
• Wash the vegetables, peel and cut into
• 5 chicken carcasses
• 1 onion 1-cm pieces.
• 1 carrot • Cook the vegetables – except the tomatoes
• 1 leek – in a large saucepan with olive oil on low
• 1 head garlic heat for 10 minutes, then add tomatoes and
• 2 tomatoes cook for a further 10 minutes.
• 20 g. olive oil
• Add the roasted carcasses and cover with
For the duck sauce hot water.
• 400 g. duck stock • Simmer for 3 hours.
• 35 g. butter • Strain, leave to cool so the fat solidifies and
then remove it.
For the wild seasonal mushrooms • Duck sauce: Pour the duck stock into a
• 120 g. wild summer
small metal saucepan and reduce by half.
mushrooms
The stock should be very flavoursome.
For the cockscombs • Remove from heat and add cold butter.
• 120 g. cockscombs, slow Whisk to incorporate completely.
cooked in oil • Wild seasonal mushrooms: Clean the
mushrooms in cold water and remove all
For the white asparagus dice
the dirt.
• 120 g. white asparagus stalks
(not the tips) • Cut into irregular sized pieces and set aside.
• Cockscombs: Drain the cockscombs
Sautéed morels, mushrooms and and cut into pieces the same size as the
white asparagus mushrooms.
• 120 g. cockscombs, slow • White asparagus dice: Peel the asparagus.
cooked in oil (see above)
• Cut into dice measuring about 5 mm. Set
• 120 g. wild summer mush-
rooms, chopped (see above) aside on damp paper towels to prevent
• 120 g. asparagus dice oxidising.
(see above) • Sautéed morels, mushrooms and white
• 50 g. duck sauce (see above) asparagus: Sauté the mushrooms in the
• 15 g. olive oil olive oil in a non-stick frying pan. Add the
from a siphon.
• Blend the ingredients with a hand-held
blender. Strain through a fine metal sieve
and set aside in the fridge in a siphon fitted
with two cartridges.
• White asparagus strips: Use a mandoline to
cut the asparagus stalks into regular slices 7
cm long, 1.5 cm wide and 1 mm thick.
• Take the two ends of a strip and use a peg to
hold them together. The shape should look
like a petal. Repeat with the other strips. Set
aside in the fridge until ready to plate.
• White asparagus flower: Press the rounded
part of each white asparagus “petal” to
make them nice and rounded.
• Place 8 “petals” on a brick disc in the shape
of a flower.
• Before plating, fill the empty space of each
“petal” with the white asparagus foam.
Kaanache
Restaurante Nur
(Fez, Marruecos)
Libro de ponencias BMF 2021
Najat Kaanache nació en Orio (Guipúzcoa, País Vasco - España), pero cada año
pasaba las vacaciones en Marruecos, el país de su familia. Esta dualidad la llevó
a amar por igual ambos mundos, a tener una visión amplia de la vida, a viajar
por medio globo terráqueo —habla siete idiomas— y a convertir sus sueños en
realidad. Luchadora tenaz e incansable trabajadora, Najat no ha necesitado nin-
guna lista para encontrar su nicho en el panorama culinario. Varios restaurantes
a su cargo, tours de conferencias y programas televisivos la avalan.
Tras vivir muchos años en el País Vasco, Najat cerró el telón de la actuación
—su formación inicial— para encontrar otros escenarios en Holanda, donde,
para subsistir, acabó preparando pinchos para galerías de arte. Esta semilla
germinó en la empresa de catering Mesa María, que acogió la tradición culi-
naria que su madre le había inculcado siendo niña. Un día decidió que tenía
que ampliar horizontes, tras quedar maravillada ante “la magia de nitrógenos
y sifones” que usaban los que serían sus futuros compañeros profesionales.
Fue entonces cuando 49 cartas salieron de su puño y letra hacia los mejores
Bogotá Madrid Fusión
No fue un camino fácil, pero ella nunca aceptó ‘no’ como respuesta. Su tenaci-
dad, su incansable capacidad para el trabajo y su espíritu soñador la llevaron
a conocer, aprender y trabajar con los mejores. “En Alinea de Chicago, aprendí
a cómo intentar ser una champion, cómo creer en uno mismo… me enseña-
ron que el mundo de la cocina no tiene límites. Con René Redzepi, en Noma,
aprendí a trabajar el producto que tenía a mi alrededor… no hacía falta hacer
una llamada de teléfono… Y Tomas Keller, de The French Laundry, me enseñó
a darle valor a un tomate, a cómo un alimento tan simple te puede contar
muchas historias… En The French Laundry salía media hora antes a recoger las
flores y las verduritas del jardín que tenían en frente, conocí sus variedades,
sus distintos niveles de acidez y también ese cuidado, esa manera de trabajar
con el producto tan refinada”, afirma Najat.
Una vez en tierras catalanas, cada mañana caminaba dos horas hasta el res-
taurante; hacía yoga en la playa y esperaba en la puerta para ver pasar a Ferran
Adrià con su carpeta blanca, y cada mañana le pedía que la dejara entrar antes
de su hora. “Para mí era un sueño estar allí, y aunque solo fuera para poner la
sal y la pimienta o los manteles, tenía claro que quería aprovechar al máximo
mi tiempo para aprender”, especifica Kaanache. Y lo consiguió. Su profesiona-
lidad y personalidad fueron ganando terreno en aquella cocina hasta el punto
de que el 30 de julio de 2011 fue ella quien cerró la puerta del restaurante,
diciendo así adiós a la leyenda bulliana de Roses.
Finalizada su etapa con Adrià, sin casi proponérselo, le fueron surgiendo dife-
rentes proyectos de restauración por todo el mundo. De hecho, Dallas, Miami
y Ciudad de México son algunos de los destinos que han probado su cocina.
Sin embargo, el más personal, “con más alma”, ha sido Nur —bautizado así
en honor a su hija— que abrió sus puertas en Fez (Marruecos) hace un par de
años. “Hacemos una cocina de producto en la que no utilizamos nada quí-
mico, trabajamos sobre el principio de la base de lo que yo aprendí de cocina
marroquí cuando estaba en País Vasco con lo que yo conozco de la montaña
de la que vengo, que está a 45 minutos de aquí y la bajo hasta el restaurante.
Son platos coloridos, naturales, sin colorantes ni ningún tipo de conservante.
Es simplemente la Madre Naturaleza”. Y en cuanto al tipo de preparaciones,
señala: “utilizamos técnicas de fuera, pero no son extremadamente visibles
porque nosotros estamos localizados en una de las medinas más antiguas del
mundo, con una arquitectura única y no sería lógico practicar una cocina que
podría hacer en Madrid, Barcelona o en París. Lo que hacemos es darle brillo
al producto como si fuera un diamante y también a su historia. No olvidemos
que Marruecos es un lugar donde la parte judía, la de las montañas, la de la
entrada de los árabes, e incluso la andalusí, se ven reflejadas en esos sabores.
Nosotros presentamos todo esto de una manera más refinada”.
olores que son naturales. Es una cocina con un potencial de llegar al cerebro
muy rápido, de satisfacerte de manera única y de ser muy saludable. Es una
zona de África donde el producto es virgen”.
Najat Kaanache was born in Orio (Guipúzcoa), but every year spent her holi-
days in Morocco, her family’s native country. This duality led her to love both
worlds equally, to have a broader view of life, to travel half around the globe—
she speaks seven languages—and to make her dreams come true. A tenacious
fighter and tireless worker, Najat has not needed any lists to find her place on
the culinary landscape. The several restaurants she runs, her conference tours
and TV shows attest to it.
After living in the Basque Country for many years, Najat closed the door on act-
ing—her initial studies—in search of other environments: she went to Holland
and, to survive, ended up preparing cocktail food for art galleries. This seed
grew into the Mesa María catering company that brought out the culinary tradi-
tion her mother had instilled in her as a child. One day, she decided she had to
expand her horizons after being dazzled by ‘the magic of nitrogen and siphons’
she saw in her future professional colleagues. So, she penned 49 letters to the
best restaurants in the world offering herself as an apprentice. She received 27
replies and decided to embark on a work tour to learn all of the techniques and
skills needed to create “that magic”.
The path was not easy, but she never took a ‘no’ for an answer. Her tenacity,
She went all out and never gave up, and that absolute conviction led her to
work at elBulli for two seasons. “I left everything, my job back then at The
French Laundry, my family, my home, and I cancelled my stints at the next two
restaurants… but I had been writing them for three years and when I found out
it was going to close, I said to myself, ‘I can’t believe I’m not going to be able to
go there.’ So, when Marc Cuspineda contacted me and said yes, I could go, but
I had to commit to work there for two seasons, I didn’t hesitate and dropped
everything,” explains the chef.
Once in Catalonia, she would walk two hours every morning to the restaurant;
she did yoga on the beach and waited at the door to see Ferran Adrià arrive
with his white folder, and every morning asked him to let her in before her
assigned time. “For me it was a dream to be there, and even if it was just to put
the salt and pepper, or the tablecloths, on the tables I knew that I wanted to
make the most of my time there to learn,” Kaanache points out. And she did.
Her professionalism and personality grew in that kitchen to the point that, on
30 July 2011, it was she who closed the door of the restaurant, thus saying
goodbye to the Bullinian legend in Roses.
At the end of her stint with Adrià, and almost without intending to, different
restaurant projects emerged for her around the world. In fact, Dallas, Miami,
Mexico City and Texas are some of the places where people have tried her cook-
ing. However, the most personal, the one “with the most soul,” is Nur—named
after her daughter—which opened in Fez (Morocco) a couple of years ago. “We
have a produce-based cuisine in which we don’t use any chemicals, we work
on the basis of what I learned of Moroccan cuisine when I lived in the Basque
Country, combined with what I know of the mountain where I come from—45
minutes from here—and from where I bring the produce for the restaurant.
They are colorful, natural dishes, without any food coloring or preservatives. It’s
Bogotá Madrid Fusión
simply Mother Nature.” As for the type of dishes, she says, “we do use non-local
techniques, but they are not so visible because we are in one of the oldest medi-
nas in the world, with a unique architecture; it wouldn’t make sense to offer a
cuisine that can be found in Madrid, Barcelona or in Paris. What we do is make
the produce shine as if it were a diamond, and its history, too. Don’t forget that
Morocco is a place where so much is reflected in our flavors: the Jewish influ-
ence, the mountains, the arrival of the Arabs, and even the Andalusí influence.
We present all of this in a very refined way.”
In the land of her parents she discovered that the rest of the world was hugely
ignorant about Moroccan cuisine and the great wealth of produce that the
country has. “Morocco has an extraordinary agriculture, very powerful… we
have incredible strawberries, mushrooms, white truffles… in fact, Adrià’s
team was filming in the mountains and even they were surprised.” She adds,
“Morocco isn’t just couscous and tajines, that’s like saying that Spain is just
potato tortillas. It’s a cuisine full of natural flavors, colors and smells. It’s a cui-
sine with a potential to reach the brain very quickly, to satisfy you in a unique
way, and it’s very healthy. It’s a part of Africa where the produce is virgin.”
That discovery led her to rethink the goal of her work. “Morocco has extraor-
dinary produce but somehow we’re not able to say Made in Morocco, and that
has led me to the conclusion that, rather than creating beautiful dishes, my role
should be to give a voice to all that produce.” For Najat, being on a list or not is
irrelevant. “I don’t fight to be on a list because to do that I would have stayed
anywhere in the world where they exist. There’s no Michelin or Fifty Best here,
but there is a lot to say, a lot to express. There’s a whole culture, a continent
full of such wealth that it’s important to make it known. We are the gateway to
Europe but we haven’t been valued. I’ve worked in iconic places and it’s been
a very important part of my life; I learned a lot, but now I live in a continent
where we have people, produce and a cuisine to be discovered. And it’s all just
twenty minutes from Europe.”
Tartiatan babaganush colorido con lo que
INGREDIENTES PREPARACIÓN
vegetables
INGREDIENTS PREPARATION
For the dough: • Dough: In a large bowl, mix rye flour, cold
• 500 g. rye flour (for example, vegan butter and a large pinch of salt. Add
Bauckhof)
ice water by tablespoons until the dough is
• 300 g. vegan butter (cold)
• 12 tablespoons iced water smooth and forms a ball. Refrigerate for at
(approx.) least half an hour.
• salt • Meanwhile, prepare the filling: mix the
silken tofu, vegan quark, soy flour, olive oil,
For the filling: dried oregano, thyme, chili flakes and Kala
• 400 g. silken tofu
Namak until smooth. Add salt and pepper to
• 150 g. vegan quark cheese
• 5 tablespoons soy flour (for taste.
example, Bauckhof) • Preheat the oven to 200°C (390°F) (top
• 2 tablespoons olive oil and bottom heat). Cut in pieces roughly the
• 2 teaspoons dried oregano same size the courgette, carrot, leek, yellow
• 2 teaspoons dried thyme pepper and red onion.
• 1 teaspoon chili flakes
• Grease the rim of a springform pan (ø 27
• 1 teaspoon Kala Namak
• 300 g. courgette cm). Remove the dough from the refrigera-
• 150 g. carrot tor and roll it out on a baking sheet until it
• 100 g. leek is large enough to evenly cover the bottom
• 120 g. yellow pepper and sides of the pan. Carefully transfer the
• 120 g. red onion dough to the springform pan and pre-bake
• fresh herbs (optional)
at 200°C (390°F) for approx. 10 min.
• salt
• pepper • Remove the pre-cooked crust from the
oven, carefully pour in the silken tofu filling
For the baba ghanoush and spread the vegetable slices on top.
• 4 large eggplants (1.5 kg before • Bake for approx. 35 min. until the filling
cooking; 550 g after charring is firm and lightly browned. After baking,
and draining out the flesh)
sprinkle with fresh herbs and serve hot.
• 2 crushed cloves of garlic
• Zest of 1 lemon and 2 table- • Place the eggplants directly over two sep-
spoons lemon juice arate burners at medium flame and roast
• 75 ml olive oil for 15-18 min. Turn occasionally using
• 2 tablespoons chopped parsley metal tongs, until the skin is burnt and flaky
• 2 tablespoons chopped mint and the flesh is soft. Allow to cool slightly.
One of the most influential cooks of our age, Ángel León is a repository of that
innate talent which defines those who spearhead gastronomy, taking it to less
explored places, such as the sea.
Bogotá Madrid Fusión
Over his professional career he has received countless awards, including the
2013 National Gastronomy Prize; the 2011 Chef L’Avenir; the highest recogni-
tion by the Michelin Guide for Aponiente; and, in 2019, being ranked 94 on The
World’s 50 Best Restaurants list.
Muergos a la bilbaína
ACABADO Y PRESENTACIÓN
INGREDIENTS PREPARATION
(to serve 25)
• Vinegar reduction: Cut the shallots into juli-
Reduction of vinegar (for 6.25 gr) enne strips and mix with vinegar and wine.
• 37.5 gr Barbazul white wine Reduce and set aside for Bilbaína sauce.
• 18.75 gr apple vinegar
• Reduced venus clam stock: Clean the
• 10 gr shallots
venus clams in ice and seawater for 1 hour.
Reduced venus clam stock Then place in a pan with 2 litres of mussel
(for 0.4167 kg) stock. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat
• 0.4167 kg venus clams and simmer for 30 minutes. Strain through
• 0.8333 kg mussel stock a fine strainer and reduce the stock until it
intensifies. Pour through a cloth filter and
Collagen
• 8.85 gr garlic set aside.
• 0.295 litre sunflower oil • Collagen: Remove the head and tail of a
• 0.1475 litre water whiting. Carefully wash the head, removing
eyes, gills and black membranes. Place in
Bilbaína sauce (for 500 gr) iced water to remove any blood, then trans-
• 30 gr collagen
fer to a vacuum pack. Cook in the Roner
• 220 gr garlic oil
• Reduced venus clam stock at 62ºC (143.6 ºF) for 30 minutes. Strain
• Reduction of vinegar through a cloth filter and set aside.
• Cayenne pepper (powdered) • Garlic oil: Remove germ and skin from
garlic and crush with water. Strain through
‘Hijo puta 2020’ sauce a superbag and remove water. Heat the oil
(25 servings)
to about 60ºC and infuse for 20 minutes.
• 225 gr sunflower oil
• 75 gr apple vinegar Strain the oil and keep separately garlic
• 20 gr garlic (with the germ paste and infusion.
removed) • Bilbaína sauce: Heat the collagen and mix
• 4 gr salt with the reduced venus clam stock, reduc-
tion of vinegar and cayenne pepper. Beat
Stewed razor clams for pressing
with oil gradually until emulsified. Season
(25 servings)
• 583.33 gr razor clam with salt and set aside.
(with bellies) • ‘Hijo puta 2020’ sauce: Blend all the ingre-
• 833.33 gr onion dients together and strain.
• 133.33 gr Fino Coquiniero
sherry
• 250 gr red wine • Stewed razor clams for pressing: Crush
De padre cazador y pescador, nació en el campo y se crio al lado del mar. Ese
binomio no ha abandonado a Fer Rivarola en su trayectoria profesional, que
Bogotá Madrid Fusión
nunca olvida la carne pero que presta especial atención al pescado y los frutos
del mar. De esta manera, desde su restaurante El Baqueano en el barrio San
Telmo de Buenos Aires, Rivarola se ha convertido en un referente de la cultura
gastronómica argentina contemporánea.
A fish cook in meat heaven, Fer Rivarola is a bold Argentine chef who has set
his sights on reconnecting his country’s cuisine with its coast and its ocean.
With a fishing and hunting father, Rivarola was born in the countryside and grew
up by the sea. This combination has never left him in his professional path. As
an Argentinian chef who never forgets beef but focuses on fish and seafood,
Rivarola has become a major name in today’s Argentine food culture through
his restaurant – El Baqueano – in Buenos Aires’ San Telmo neighborhood.
Trained under Argentinean and French chefs, he took a leap to Europe, first
landing in Italy and quickly moving on to Spain where, as he acknowledges,
“without meaning to” he ended up spending seven years, living and working in
different towns around the country. During his Spanish journey, the experience
that left the biggest mark took place in Andalusia where he discovered the
importance of seafood and of traditional recipes. Still in Spain, he also learned
contemporary game cuisine during his stay with the Lera family.
On his return to Argentina in 2008, he and his wife, the sommelier Gabriela
Lafuente, launched their personal project – El Baqueano –, a restaurant driven
to bring back the country’s local produce. Their philosophy focuses on working
with small producers from Argentina’s 18 “ecoregions” in order to establish
sustainability and fair trade.
Rivarola’s restlessness later drove him to start, again with Gabriela, the Cocina
Sin Fronteras [Kitchen without Borders] project in 2013, aimed at generating
synergies between Latin-American cooks and promoting a plural approach to
cooking. Yet all this has not kept him away from his work in the kitchen, quite
to the contrary: that same year he entered the World’s 50 Best list.
His latest adventure is Trashumante, a restaurant sharing the philosophy of El
Baqueano, but that offers casual take-away food.
Croquetas de boletus edulis
Bogotá Madrid Fusión
INGREDIENTES PREPARACIÓN
INGREDIENTS PREPARATION
• Fresh, clean porcini, cut into • Sauté the porcini in a large pan over high
small irregular pieces 1 kg heat together with the onions. Add the
• White onions, cut into brunoise
garlic and bay leaves and sweat until nicely
1 kg
• Bay leaves2 browned.
• Garlic cloves, minced 5 • In a separate pan, prepare the thick bécha-
mel. Heat the milk with grated nutmeg and
Thick béchamel sauce white pepper to taste. Meanwhile, prepare a
• Milk 1 L roux: melt the butter, add the flour and stir
• Butter 150 g
until golden and the flour no longer tastes
• Flour 150 g
• White pepper as needed raw. Add the milk gradually to the roux and
• Nutmeg as needed stir with a wire whisk. Stir briskly until the
mixture thickens. Add the porcini. Stir until
Breadcrumb coating well mixed with a silicone spatula. Spread
• Breadcrumbs 1 kg mixture on a Silpat and leave to cool in the
• Flour 500 g
fridge for 24 hours.
• Eggs, lightly beaten 6
• Oil for frying 3 L • The next day, cut into small pieces and
shape into little balls (they should be the
same size and weight). Roll them first in the
flour, then dip into the egg, and lastly in the
breadcrumbs. Set aside in the fridge until
ready to fry. Heat the oil to 165ºC and fry
the croquettes until the outside is nice and
crispy. Drain on paper towels.
Libro de ponencias BMF 2021
Jennifer
Bogotá Madrid Fusión
Rodríguez
Restaurante Mestizo Cocina de Origen
(Mesitas del colegio, Cundimarca, Colombia)
Libro de ponencias BMF 2021
She has won the Latin American reality show Cocineros al límite, of the
Utilísima channel, and the National Award for Traditional Colombian Cuisine;
she also hosted the Fox Life
INGREDIENTES PREPARACIÓN
(4 porciones)
• Trucha curada: Mezclar la sal y el azúcar.
Para la trucha curada • Disponer la trucha limpia del lado de la piel
• 1.000 g de filete de trucha hacia abajo, cubrir con la mezcla de azúcar
• 600 g de sal
y sal, colocar del lado de la carne la otra
• 400 g de azúcar
trucha con el lado de la piel hacia arriba, y
Para el suero costeño y hojas luego colocar un cartón cubierto de alumi-
de arracacha nio y encima algo de peso.
• 400 g de suero de leche • Reposar en refrigeración por 12 h.
o suero costeño • Suero costeño y hojas de arracacha: En
• 500 g de hojas de arracacha
un litro de agua hirviendo, poner las hojas
• 300 g de perejil liso
• 3 g de sal de arracacha y cocinar por 4 min, retirar y
sumergir en agua con hielo, repetir el pro-
Bulbo de arracacaha en conserva ceso con las hojas de perejil. Luego exprimir
• 200 g de Bulbo de arracacha con un trapo las hojas y eliminar al maximo
• 100 ml de vinagre de frutas
el agua, para luego licuar junto con el suero
• 80 ml de agua
y lograr una salsa untable verde, con los
• 30 g de azúcar
• 2 g de sal sabores de las hojas.
• Bulbo de arracacaha en conserva: Se retira
la piel del bulbo hasta obtener solo el centro
del mismo, el cual cortaremos en láminas
con ayuda de una mandolina o un cuchillo
muy afilado. En una olla ponemos el agua, el
vinagre, el azúcar y la sal hasta que llegue a
punto de ebullición. Retirar y dejar enfriar, y
mezclar con el bulbo laminado luego de que
esté frío.
PRESENTACIÓN
INGREDIENTS PREPARATION
(Serves 4)
• Cured trout: Mix salt and sugar. Place the
For the cured trout cleaned trout in a deep tray skin-side down
• 1 kg. trout fillets and cover with the sugar-salt mixture. Place
• 600 g. salt
the other trout – skin side-up – on top of the
• 400 g. sugar
first one. Cover a piece of cardboard with
For the suero costeño (sour aluminium foil, place it over the trout and
cream) and arracacha leaves weigh it down.
• 400 g. sour cream • Refrigerate for 12 hours.
• 500 g. arracacha leaves • Costeño whey and arracacha leaves: Put
• 300 g. flat-leaf parsley
the arracacha leaves into a litre of boiling
• 3 g. salt
water and cook for 4 minutes. Remove and
Preserved arracacha root immerse the leaves in iced water. Do the
• 200 g. arracacha root same with the parsley. Squeeze the leaves
• 100 ml fruit vinegar with a cloth to remove as much water as
• 80 ml water possible. Use a blender to mix leaves and
• 30 g. sugar
sour cream, to obtain a green spreadable
• 2 g. salt
sauce.
• Preserved arracacaha root: Peel the root
and slice thinly using a mandoline or a very
sharp knife. Put the water, vinegar, sugar
and salt in a saucepan and bring to a boil.
When cool, mix with the sliced root.
PRESENTATION
Sasson
Restaurante Harry Sasson
(Bogotá, Colombia)
Libro de ponencias BMF 2021
Sasson nació en 1969 y, desde temprana edad, mostró su inclinación por las
artes culinarias. Cuando apenas era un adolescente empezó a recorrer todos
los escalafones de la alta cocina, desde legumbrero, pasando por ayudante
de carnicero y entremetier, hasta ser hoy uno de los más destacados chefs de
Colombia. Su educación básica la recibió en el Sena, en Colombia, y a partir
de ahí fue ganando experiencia en restaurantes de la industria hotelera. Al
terminar esta etapa viajó a Vancouver (Canadá), donde trabajó en Joe Fortes
(famoso restaurante de pescados y mariscos) y fue discípulo del renombrado
Bogotá Madrid Fusión
Al volver a Colombia, en 1995, y con 25 años, fundó H.Sasson Wok & Satay Bar,
dando inicio a uno de los fenómenos más notables de la gastronomía colom-
biana. Un restaurante, el Wok & Satay Bar, que ha sido referencia en Bogotá
con diferentes ambientes y una completa cava de licores en la que Harry tiene
una sola mesa reservada para atender a diez clientes. Más tarde complementó
su oferta con otros locales como H&B, Balzac, Harry’s Bar y Club Colombia,
ubicados entre los más exitosos del país. Hace un par de años abrió Harry
Sasson –su restaurante bandera–, que se ha convertido en referente de la alta
cocina latinoamericana, con un menú donde destaca el uso de ingredientes
autóctonos, siempre acompañados de la última técnica y el máximo respeto
por la tradición y el medio ambiente. El resultado final: originalidad con deno-
minación de origen.
In addition, Sasson has published books of his best recipes, and is a columnist
for several newspapers and magazines in Colombia. One of his latest projects
is “Peace Crops,” an initiative to grow local crops where there once flourished
coca plantations. “It’s how we’re doing our bit for peace in this country, and it’s
a way of offering local farmers a future.”
A great promoter of Colombia’s food and agriculture, Sasson asserts that the
country’s gastronomy “is as diverse as its geography, and this is something that
must be valued.” Among all that diversity, the chef continues to highlight two
ingredients: olive oil and sea salt.
Palmito fresco del putumayo, leche de tigre de
Bogotá Madrid Fusión
INGREDIENTES PREPARACIÓN
Cangrejo:
• 200 g de carne fresca de can- • Verter un espejo de leche de tigre en la base
grejo azul del plato. Acomodar los hilos de palmito en
• 1 cda. pimienta verde fresca forma de nido de fideos y, a su lado, servir
machacada el cangrejo terminando con los germinados.
• 3 cdas. aceite de oliva virgen
extra
• c.s. de sal marina
• c.s. de ralladura de 1limón
Otros:
• c.s. de germinados
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Putumayo hearts of palm, green mango leche
Bogotá Madrid Fusión
INGREDIENTS PREPARATION
Crab:
• 200 g. fresh blue-crab meat TO SERVE
• 1 tbsp fresh green pepper-
corns, crushed
• Pour a little of the leche de tigre into a deep
• 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
• Sea salt (as needed) plate. Pile the hearts of palm strips in a nest
• Lime grated zest (as needed) shape. Serve the crab next to it, topping
with the sprouted grains.
Plus:
• sprouted grains (as needed)
Libro de ponencias BMF 2021
Viviana
Varese
Restaurante Viva*
(Milán, Italia)
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Nacida en Salerno en 1974, Viviana Varese trabajó en el restaurante de comida
de mar de su familia desde una edad temprana.
En 2007, Viviana y su socia y amiga Sandra Cicirello se unieron para abrir Alice
Ristorante en Milán. Viviana se puso al frente de la cocina mientras Sandra
actuaba como sumiller y maître. El reconocimiento nacional llegó cuatro años
después, cuando el dúo recibió una estrella Michelin.
an early age and continued helped whenever she could, even while studying
to become a teacher,. However, it wasn’t until she turned twenty-one that she
decided she wanted to become a professional chef.
She worked with Gualtiero Marchesi and also gained experience at other
prestigious restaurants – such as El Celler de Can Roca – until she felt ready
to venture on her own. Her first restaurant, Il Girasole (The Sunflower), in the
outskirts of Milan, specialized in seafood.
In 2007, Viviana and Sandra Cicirello – her friend and business partner –
decided to go into business together, opening Alice Ristorante in Milan. Viviana
took charge of the kitchen while Sandra was the sommelier and worked front-
of-house. Four years later they were awarded a Michelin star, which brought
them national acclaim.
The next milestone came when Viviana met Oscar Farinetti, the founder and
creator of Eataly – a chain of stores located across Italy selling the best food
and drink the country has to offer. Viviana’s love of these products mirrored
Oscar’s and, in 2014, Alice Ristorante moved to the Milan branch of Eataly. The
restaurant maintained its Michelin star and became even more popular. Alice
changed its name to VIVA, an acronym of the chef’s first and last name.
Libro de ponencias BMF 2021
Pastina Arte Senatore Cappelli con gelatina de
Bogotá Madrid Fusión
INGREDIENTES PREPARACIÓN:
(Para 4 personas) • La gelatina de parmesano: Llevar la leche y
el agar-agar a ebullición y dejar actuar. Bajar
La pastina: la temperatura a 80oC, añadir el parme-
• 320 g de pastina
sano y mezclarlo sin dejar grumos. Añadir
• 50 g de setas porcini (boletos)
secas la gelatina e incorporarla adecuadamente.
• 50 g de trufas negras Verter en un plato hasta llegar a una altura
• Sal al gusto de aproximadamente 0,5 cm. Dejar enfriar.
• 30 g de mantequilla • La gelatina de vegetales multicolores:
Pasar las verduras crudas lavadas y limpias
La gelatina de parmesano:
por el extractor, excepto el calabacín que,
• 125 g de leche entera
• 100 g de Parmigiano Reggiano para preservar su color, se le quita la parte
“red cows” de 36 meses blanca central, se escalda unos segundos
• 4 g de la gelatina en trozos en agua con sal y se enfría en agua y hielo.
• 1 g de agar-agar • Luego, tras haber obtenido todos los extrac-
tos, llevarlos a ebullición con el agar-agar,
Los vegetales multicolores:
aplicando la dosis básica descrita en los
calabacines, remolacha, pimien-
tos amarillos y rojos, gelatina de ingredientes. Tras retirarlo del fuego, añadir
lombarda: la gelatina y verter inmediatamente en pla-
• 2 calabacines verdes tos hasta un espesor de aproximadamente
• 1 remolacha 1 mm. Dejar enfriar.
• 2 pimientos amarillos • El caldo de setas: Verter 1 litro de agua
• 2 pimientos rojos
y 4 g de sal en una olla. Añadir las setas
• 300 g de lombarda
• Agar-agar (lo necesario; y calentar sin dejar hervir durante 1 h (a
1 g por 100 g de extracto) 80o-85oC, como máximo). Una vez cocina-
• Gelatina (lo necesario; das, escurrir bien.
1 g por 100 g de extracto) • Comenzar a cocinar la pasta en una olla
como si fuera risotto y seguir haciéndola
con el caldo de setas.
• Tras 8 min, comenzar a remover la pasta
con mantequilla y la trufa negra rallada
fuera del fuego.
• Mientras tanto, cortar la gelatina de par-
INGREDIENTS PREPARATION
(Serves 4)
• For the Parmesan jelly: Bring the milk and
For pastina: agar agar to a boil and let act. Lower the
• 320 g. pastina
temperature to 80ºC (176ºF), add Parmesan
• 50 g. dried porcini mushrooms
• 50 g. black truffle and blend without leaving lumps. Add gela-
• Salt to taste tin and incorporate. Pour into a plate so it is
• 30 g. butter 0.5 cm thick. Let cool.
• • For the multicolored vegetable jelly:
For the Parmesan jelly: Discard the central white part of the zuc-
• 125 g. whole milk
chini and, to preserve its color, blanch the
• 100 g. Parmigiano Reggiano
“red cow” cheese, aged 36 rest for a few seconds in salted water and
months cool in iced water.
• 4 g. gelatin in sheets • Pass the rest of the washed and cleaned
• 1 g. agar agar vegetables through the extractor.
• • After having all the extracts, bring them to
For the zucchini, beetroot, yellow
a boil with the agar agar following the ratio
and red pepper, purple cabbage
jelly: described in the ingredients. After removing
• 2 green zucchinis from the heat, add gelatin and immediately
• 1 beetroot pour onto plates so the liquid is 1 mm. thick.
• 2 yellow peppers Leave to cool.
• 2 red peppers • For the mushroom broth: In a saucepan
• 300 g. purple cabbage
pour 1 l. of water and 4 g. of salt. Add
• agar agar (1 g. per 100 g.
of extract)
mushrooms and cook without boiling for 1
• Jelly QB (1 g. per 100 g. h. (max 80-85ºC/176-185ºF). Once cooked,
of extract) strain well.
• In a saucepan, start cooking the pasta as if
it were a risotto using the mushroom broth.
Libro de ponencias BMF 2021
• After about 8 min., stir the pasta with butter
and grated black truffle, and remove from
heat.
• Meanwhile, slice the Parmesan jelly using
a circular ring of the same diameter as the
serving dish. With a spatula, cut the colored
vegetable jellies irregularly and place them
on top of the Parmesan jelly.
• Once the pasta is placed on a deep plate,
cover gently with the Parmesan jelly as a lid.
Serve hot.
Eduard
Bogotá Madrid Fusión
Xatruch
Mateu
Casañas
Oriol
Castro
Restaurante Disfrutar
(Barcelona, España)
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EDUARD XATRUCH
Junto a Oriol Castro y Mateu Casañas revolucionó Roses a principios de siglo
y Barcelona en estos últimos años.
MATEU CASAÑAS
Uno de los pilares del éxito de Disfrutar. Antes fraguó su ascendencia al lado
de Ferran Adrià en elBulli de Roses, de donde es originario.
Este barcelonés nacido en 1974 fue la mano derecha de Ferran Adrià durante
años en elBulli. Formado en la Escuela Joviat de Manresa y en la Escuela del
Gremio de Pastelería de Barcelona, antes de llegar al restaurante de Roses se
curtió, entre otros, en los fogones de La Torre del Remei (Puigcerdà), Via Veneto
(Barcelona), Jean Luc Figueras (Barcelona) o Martín Berasategui (Lasarte). Y ya
estando en elBulli, en Charlie Trotter (Chicago) y Michel Bras (Laguiole).
EDUARD XATRUCH
Alongside Oriol Castro and Mateu Casañas, he revolutionized Roses at the start
of this century and Barcelona these past years.
From 1999 onwards, he learned the ropes in different sections of the restau-
rant in Cala Montjoi and, in 2005, became part of its creative team specializing
on product-related research.
After elBulli closed, he continued working with Ferran Adrià on the conceptu-
Bogotá Madrid Fusión
alization of Bullipedia until, along with fellow Bullinian alumni Eduard Xatruch
and Oriol Castro, he opened Compartir, a restaurant in Cadaqués. In 2014, and
with the same partners, he opened Disfrutar in Barcelona, a now firmly estab-
lished fine-dining restaurant with two Michelin stars and ranked 9th on The
World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2020.
MATEU CASAÑAS
One of the cornerstones of success at Disfrutar. Previously, he forged his path
with Ferran Adrià at elBulli in Roses, his hometown.
The son of restaurateurs in the town of Roses (the family ran the restaurant
Si Us Plau, on the seafront), he joined the neighboring restaurant elBulli in
1997 in an internship. Over the years he took on various responsibilities until
he became head chef and member of the creative team, positions he still
held when the legendary restaurant closed its doors in July 2011. He contin-
ued working with Ferran Adrià on the conceptualization of Bullipedia until he
‘emancipated’ along with fellow Bullinian alumni Eduard Xatruch and Oriol
Castro to open Compartir, a restaurant in Cadaqués.
At the end of 2014, once they had established themselves in the capital of the
ORIOL CASTRO
Ferran Adrià’s second-in-command for years at elBulli, he has triumphed
together with his partners at Disfrutar. Magic and creativity in the kitchen.
Born in Barcelona in 1974, he was Ferran Adrià’s right-hand man for years
at elBulli. He studied at the Escuela Joviat in Manresa and at the Escuela del
Gremio de Pastelería in Barcelona. Before arriving at the restaurant in Roses,
he worked in the kitchens of La Torre del Remei (Puigcerdà), Via Veneto
(Barcelona), Jean Luc Figueras (Barcelona) and Martín Berasategui (Lasarte),
among others. While at elBulli, he did stints at Charlie Trotter (Chicago) and
with Michel Bras (Laguiole). He started out at elBulli doing a pastry-making
internship in 1996 under Albert Adrià. From 1997 onwards, he worked in every
section of the restaurant until 1998 when he devoted himself to the creative
side, dedicating much of his time to research and develop new dishes.
After elBulli closed, he continued working with Ferran Adrià on the con-
ceptualization of Bullipedia until 2012, when, along with fellow Bullinian
alumni Eduard Xatruch and Oriol Castro, he opened Compartir, a restaurant
in Cadaqués. In 2014, and with the same partners, he opened Disfrutar in
Barcelona, a now firmly established fine-dining restaurant with two Michelin
stars and ranked 9th on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2020.
Almendras “supertiernas” en vinagreta
Bogotá Madrid Fusión
INGREDIENTES PREPARACIÓN
(para 10 personas)
• Poner las almendras y el agua en la
Almendras “supertiernas” y caldo máquina OCOO sin colador y en programa
de almendras
Huevo Negro durante 7 horas.
• 60 almendras marcona crudas,
repeladas y enteras • Una vez finalizado el programa, con una
• 400 g de agua OCOO cuchara y con mucho cuidado de no rom-
perlas, disponer las almendras en otro
Vinagreta de almendras recipiente.
• 260 g de caldo de almendras • Cubrir las almendras con dos cucharadas
(elaboración anterior)
del propio caldo de cocción para que no se
• 15 g de vinagre de jerez
• 20 g de aceite virgen de almen- sequen y guardar en la nevera.
dra tostada • Guardar el resto del caldo de almendras
• Sal para la vinagreta.
• Poner el caldo de almendras a punto de
Aceite de vainilla vinagre y sal. Triturar.
• 50 g de aceite virgen de maíz 1
• Emulsionar con el aceite de almendras,
vaina de vainilla
poner a punto de sal y guardar en la nevera.
Leche de almendra • Cortar la vaina de vainilla a la mitad longi-
• 100 g de granillo de almendra tudinalmente y con la ayuda de una puntilla
Marcona cruda sacar todas las semillas.
• 110 g de agua • En una bolsa de vacío, introducir el aceite
de maíz junto a las semillas de vainilla y la
Crema de almendra
• 100 g de leche de almendras vaina troceada.
(elaboración anterior) • Envasar y cocer durante 1 hora a 60ºC.
• 10 g de agua • Dejar reposar 3 horas a temperatura
• ¼ de hoja de gelatina de 2 g ambiente e introducir en la nevera durante
(previamente rehidratada en 24 horas.
agua fría)
• Colar por un colador fino, apretando bien
• Sal Fundir la gelatina escurrida
con el agua indicada. para recuperar todas las semillas de
vainilla.
Aceite de ajo • Guardar el aceite de vainilla obtenido en un
ACABADO Y PRESENTACIÓN