Top 10 Mexico City (Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guides) (PDFDrive) PDF

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
TOP 10
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Must-see museums & galleries
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Best hotels for every budget

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la Profesa Primera Museo José
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Great excursions
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Most beautiful murals

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Colorful local markets

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Insider tips for every visitor

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YOUR GUIDE TO THE 10 BEST OF EVERYTHING

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TOP 10
MEXICO CITY
NANCY MIKULA
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
Contents
Left Voladores, Museo Nacional de Antropología Right Catedral Metropolitana
Contents
Mexico City’s Top 10
Museo Nacional de
Reproduced by Colourscan, Singapore Antropología 8
Printed and bound in China by South China
Printing Co. Ltd.
Catedral Metropolitana 12
First American Edition, 2008
10 11 12 13 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Palacio Nacional 14
Published in the United States by
DK Publishing, 375 Hudson Street, Templo Mayor 16
New York, New York 10014
Reprinted with revisions 2010 Palacio de Bellas Artes 20
Copyright 2008, 2010 © Dorling Kindersley
Limited, A Penguin Company Bosque de Chapultepec 22
All rights reserved. Without limiting the rights
under copyright reserved above, no part of this Museo Nacional de Arte 26
publication may be reproduced, stored in or
introduced into a retrieval system, or
LONDON, NEW YORK, Xochimilco Floating
transmitted, in any MUNICH
MELBOURNE, form,ANDor DELHI
by any means
www.dk.com
(electronic, mechanical, photocopying, Gardens 28
recording, or otherwise), without the prior
written permission of both the copyright owner
and the above publisher of this book. Published Villa de Guadalupe 30
in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited
ISSN 1479-344X
Teotihuacán 32
ISBN 978-0-7566-6175-5
Within each Top 10 list in this book,
Moments in History 38
no hierarchy of quality or popularity
is implied. All 10 are, in the editor’s Historic Sites 40
opinion, of roughly equal merit.
Museums 42
Architectural Highlights 44
Parks, Gardens, and
Courtyards 46
The information in this DK Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guide is checked regularly.

Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of
going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices,
gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers
cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for
any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this
book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of
our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides,
Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London, Great Britain WC2R 0RL.
Cover – Front: DK Images: Peter Wilson clb; Lonely Planet Images: Neil Setchfield. Spine: DK Images:
Demetrio Carrasco b. Back: DK Images: Paul Franklin c, cl; Peter Wilson cr.
2
Contents
Left Cantina, Coyoacán Right Interior, Capilla del Cerrito, Villa de Guadalupe
Churches 48 Streetsmart
Murals 50 Planning Your Trip 102
Markets 52 Getting to Mexico City 103
Cuisine 54 Getting Around 104
Entertainment and Things to Avoid 105
Performing Arts 56
Budget Tips 106
Outdoor Activities and
Sports 58 Etiquette 107
Festivals and Events 60 Security and Health 108
Excursions 62 Banking and

Communications 109
Around Town Shopping Tips 110
Centro Histórico 66 Eating and
Paseo de la Reforma and Accommodations Tips 111
Zona Rosa 74 Places to Stay 112
Chapultepec and Polanco 82 Index 118
Coyoacán and San Ángel 88 Phrase Book 126
Greater Mexico City 94 Street Index 128
Left Gardens, Castillo de Chapultepec Right Museo Frida Kahlo
Key to abbreviations 3
Adm admission charge payable
MEXICO
CITY’S TOP 10
Mexico City’s Highlights
6–7
MEXICO CITY’S TOP 10

Museo Nacional de
Antropología
8–11
Catedral Metropolitana
12–13
Palacio Nacional
14–15
Templo Mayor
16–17
Palacio de Bellas Artes
20–21
Bosque de Chapultepec
22–25
Museo Nacional de Arte
26–27
Xochimilco Floating
Gardens
28–29
Villa de Guadalupe
30–31
Teotihuacán
32–35
Top Ten of Everything
38–63
Mexico City’s Highlights
Pulsating with life and culture, blessed with
perpetually spring-like weather, and with a
fascinating blend of history and modernity,
Mexico City is endlessly surprising. With

excellent museums, ornate churches, colo-
nial palaces, and urban parks, the city
attracts a large number of visitors. ! Museo Nacional de
Antropología
One of the great
museums of the
world dramatically 57,
' ( 3 2 92 5 ( <
12
presents its pre- 6$
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This massive executive palace and government
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% Palacio de
Bellas Artes
The spectacular
performing arts
palacio is a city
$ Templo Mayor
An accidental discovery led
icon, combining an
exquisite white
to a massive archeological effort marble exterior
that uncovered the ruins of this with an Art Deco
Aztec temple. A museum was interior having
built to house the artifacts Mexican touches
recovered (see pp16–17). (see pp20–21).
6 Preceding pages Main altar, Ex-Convento e Iglesia del Carmen,

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Floating Gardens
&XOKXDF¢Q Colorfully decorated
trajineras (flat barges),
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with long poles, carry
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7HSHSDQ )ORDWLQJ Xochimilco, “the place
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where flowers grow”
(see pp28–9).
( Villa de Guadalupe
One of the holiest Catholic shrines in
the Western Hemisphere honors the
Virgin de Guadalupe, Mexico’s patron
saint, who appeared in a vision to an
indigenous Mexican peasant, Juan Diego
in 1531 (see pp30–31).
) Teotihuacán
The largest archeological site
in Mesoamerica, and one of the
most impressive in the world,
this ancient city reached its
zenith in AD 550 (see pp32–5).
7
Museo Nacional de Antropología
One of the most important of its kind in the world,
this anthropological museum presents an out-
standing collection of Mexican pre-Hispanic art in
a stunning modern building. A dramatic central

courtyard, highlighted by a spectacular fountain, is
surrounded by a series of halls, each showcasing
an ancient Mexican culture and society.
Top 10 Features Carved pillar and water fountain

1 Pre-Classic Central Mexico
Hall Key
2 Teotihuacán Hall
First Floor
3 Toltec Hall
4 Aztec or Mexica Hall Second Floor
Cacaxtla fresco paintings 5 Oaxaca Hall
Arrive early in the 6 Gulf Coast Hall
morning to avoid the 7 Maya Hall
worst of the daily 8 Western Cultures Hall
crowds. If you have 9 Northern Cultures Hall
limited time, visit
0 Ethnography Halls
the Mexica Hall first
to see the fabulous
Pre-Classic
Aztec collection.
! Central
The café downstairs Mexico Hall
is excellent, offering The hall
a full lunch buffet as features artifacts
well as sandwiches, that highlight the
achievements in
salads, and full
pottery and stone
meals.
sculpture during the years
2300 BC to AD 100. The
tMap E3 Acrobat from Tlatilco, a fine
tAvenida Paseo de la vase, is displayed here.
Reforma, and Calzada
Gandhi, in Colonia
Chapultepec
t5553-6381
tMetro 7 Auditorio and
Metro 1 Chapultepec,
Turibus Centro stop #17
t9am–7pm Tue–Sun
t51 pesos. Children,
students, teachers,
seniors over 60 free
with appropriate ID. Free
Sun for Mexican citizens
and residents
tAudioguides available @ Teotihuacán Hall
The finely crafted artistic, religious, and architectural
twww.mna.inah. objects displayed in the hall (above) reflect the skills of
gob.mx the craftsmen, artisans, and builders of this first great
Mexican city. The craftsmen depicted deities in stone
carvings, finely painted murals, and on intricately
decorated vessels. The huge monolith of the goddess
Chalchiuhtlicue is one of the highlights of the hall.
8 Designed by Pedro Ramírez Vázquez and completed in 1964, the

two-story museum encloses 474,000 sq ft (44,000 sq m) of space
% Oaxaca Hall
This hall showcases * Western
Hall
Cultures
artifacts from the two This hall displays artifacts

cultures that flourished in from western Mexico,
Oaxaca – Zapotec and including pottery figurines
Mixtec. There is a recon- and vessels of unusual

struction of the Zapotec complexity and fine
Tomb of Monte Albán and design. The hunchbacked
many elegant clay vessels figure of a god on a
with various figures on serpent is notable.
them. The Mixtec collec-
£ Toltec Hall
This hall displays art
tion features silver and
gold pieces, and carved ( Northern
Hall
Cultures
objects from the great jade and obsidian. The hall features artifacts
Toltec city-states that from northern Mexico.
developed from 850– Pottery, masks, and weap-
1250. The sculpture of a ons form the largest
bearded warrior emerg- portion of the collection.
ing from the mouth of The highlight is the finely
a coyote (above) can formed decorated pottery
be seen here. from Paquimé featuring
red or black designs on
cream-colored vessels.
) Ethnography Halls
The second floor of
the museum is filled with
brilliantly colored textiles,

Gulf costumes, and art of the
^ Coast Hall indigenous people from
The Olmecs are all regions of Mexico.
known for the Cultures are organized by
colossal stone state and in relation to
head sculptures the anthropology halls

of their leaders downstairs.
(above), two of
which are in this hall.
Museum Guide
Also displayed are stone
masks and sculptures. The entrance hall
contains the gift shop,
& Maya Hall

Exquisite examples of
restrooms, temporary
exhibit rooms, and ticket
highly decorated temple area. It opens into a
architecture and fine huge courtyard whose
artistic creations of roof is supported by a
Mayan civilization fill the modern carved pillar
hall. There are also many and water fountain. The
stucco figures that courtyard has doors that
illustrate the Mayan ideal open into the museum
$ Aztec
Hall
or Mexica of human beauty. halls. Each of the halls
displays archeological
The museum’s largest objects from a different
hall is filled with impress- region or culture in
ive monoliths and finely Mexico and each has a
crafted objects represen- door that leads into an
tative of the immense exterior garden area
diversity of Aztec culture. where reconstructions
The centerpiece is the and artifacts are on
intricately carved Sun show. The entire upper
Stone, a circular disk floor showcases the
representing the Mexica ethnology collection.
cosmos (see p10).
In the garden of the Maya Hall is a reconstruction of Palenque’s 9

Temple of Inscriptions
Left Model of Tenochtitlán’s Sacred Center Right Aztec stone head
Aztec or Mexica Hall

! Sun Stone
This magnificent monolith
conquest, based on written
descriptions by Cortés and other
depicts the first four Aztec Spaniards. Although Templo
worlds, thought to Mayor is shown larger
represent locations than it was, the painting
where the Aztecs offers a stunning
lived before reloca- glimpse of the
ting to Tenochtitlán lost cities.
in 1323. The central
figure is either the
sun god or the earth $
Obsidian
Monkey Vessel
god, with a sacrificial One of the museum’s
knife for a tongue, and most valuable and most
claws holding human Sun Stone viewed objects, this charm-
hearts. The four squares ing vessel in the form of a
surrounding the center depict monkey holding its tail in both
the four previous worlds, hands is carved from a single
represented by a jaguar, wind, piece of highly polished obsidian.
fiery rain, and water. The next The monkey, in Aztec mythology,
circle of twenty squares repre- is associated with the god of
sents the Aztec month made up wind and black rain clouds.
of 20 days. Other symbols depict
the 18 months of a year and five
sacrifice days, representing the %
Headdress of Quetzal
Feathers
365 days of the Aztec year. The headdress on display is a
replica of the original which
@ Coatlicue
Several monumental sculp-
Moctezuma II presented to
Cortés. A complete arc of ele-
tures of Coatlicue, the mother gant turquoise quetzal feathers
goddess, who gave birth to the are mounted on an exquisite
sun, moon, and stars survive. headband decorated with red
One sculpture reveals her deadly beads, turquoise, and gold.
side, with a head like a snake, a
necklace of human hands and
hearts, and a skirt of serpents. ^
Coyolxauhqui
The huge stone head of
Coyolxauhqui, goddess of the
£ Tenochtitlán and
Tlatelolco
moon, depicts her warrior
goddess persona. Her cheeks
A beautiful painting by Luis are decorated with rattlesnakes.
Covarrubias (1919–87) presents According to Aztec myth, she
an idealized view of the shim- was beheaded by her brother,
mering lake-cities of Tenochtitlán Huitzilopochtli – the sun god –
and Tlatelolco before the for impeding his birth.
10
& Cuauhxicalli
Moctezuma I
of
( Ocelotl-Cuauhxicalli
A cuauhxicalli is a type of
Moctezuma I, the fifth Aztec altar stone and is used to con-
emperor, consolidated the duct sacrifices to the gods. The
empire. His military victories are eagle and jaguar are common

displayed on this enormous, animal motifs used. Ocelotl is
intricately carved wheel-shaped the Aztec name for a jaguar.
stone. Eleven historical conquest
scenes are depicted, showing
battles that occurred in different ) Chapulín
This unusual, large, red-
parts of Mexico. colored stone grasshopper, or
chapulín, was found on Cerro del
* Xochipilli
The god of music, song,
Chapulín, Grasshopper Hill,
which is the hill in Bosque de
flowers, and love, Xochipilli sits Chapultepec (see pp22–3) that
on his throne decorated with the Castillo stands on today. This
butterflies and flowers, the place was sacred to the Aztecs
symbols of his realm. and they built a temple here.
Top 10 Aztec
Deities
Mythology
The Aztecs believed that the
1 Huitzilopochtli, supreme world was created by the
god of sun and war gods, and that their world
2 Coyolxauhqui, goddess was in the fifth and final
of the moon iteration – the Sun Stone, the
3 Quetzalcoatl, god of monolithic centerpiece of the
wind and fertility Aztec Hall, is believed to depict
4 Tezcatlipoca, god of the first four worlds. The
night, discord, and heavens were comprised of
sorcerers vertical levels, with the
5 Xochipilli, god of love, supreme creators, the gods,
beauty, dance, and reigning in the top level. Among
flowers the gods, one of the most
6 Mixcoatl, god of hunting important was Coatilcue, an
and the milky way Earth goddess who gave birth
7 Ometeotl, lord of duality to the sun, moon, and stars.
8 Xiuhtecutli, god of fire Another creation myth Coatlicue, the
and lord of turquoise mother goddess
describes the formation of the
9 Tlaloc, god of rain and world by rival twins, Quetzalcoatl and Tezcatlipoca,
fertility representing good and evil. Aztec mythology held that
0 Coatlicue, goddess who the Universe is comprised of four parts, corresponding
birthed the sun god to the four cardinal directions with the convergence
Huitzilopochtli, the ruled from the center by Xiuhtecutli, god of fire and
moon, and stars lord of turquoise. The reason that there are often
multiple myths explaining single aspects of belief is
that the Aztecs borrowed heavily from the Toltec,
Teotihuacán, and other cultures. It is estimated that
the Aztecs had a pantheon of over 1,500 deities
Aztec Relief Sculpture of the when the Spanish, under the leadership of Cortés,
Birth of Quetzalcoatl arrrived in 1519.
Share your travel recommendations on traveldk.com 11

With its richly ornate Spanish Baroque façade,
Neo-Classical dome, and twin bell towers rising
220 ft (67 m), the cathedral is a majestic blend
of architectural styles. Begun in 1525 it was

designed and built in stages by many architects,
artists, and sculptors. The cathedral was
consecrated in 1667 and completed in 1813.
Top 10 Features
1 Pendulum Choir, Catedral Metropolitana
2 Capilla de San José
3 Pipe Organs and Choir Loft
4 Capilla de San Felipe de
Jesús
Altar of Forgiveness,
5 Altar del Perdón
6 Altar de los Reyes
The Altar of 7 Pinnacle
Forgiveness and
8 Metropolitana Sacrarium
several side chapels
9 Miguel Cabrera Masterpieces
are always accessible,
but the rest of the 0 Capilla de Nuestra Señora de
cathedral is restricted los Dolores
during mass.
The exterior of the

cathedral is most
beautiful in the early
evening when the
lights are on and it
glows against the
twilight sky. ! Pendulum
For years the cathedral
had been sinking into the
Look through the
glass panels under
soft soil of what was once
a lake. Extensive under- £ Pipe Organs and
Choir Loft
your feet in the ground engineering efforts Two magnificent pipe
courtyard to see the have largely stabilized the organs (below) flank a huge
original courtyard building. The pendulum two-level choir loft which
and steps. (above) suspended from the has intricately worked
ceiling tracks the tilt, mark- stalls. Carved figures of
The rooftop ing a record on the floor. bishops and saints deco-
restaurant of the rate the upper level; ivory
Majestic Hotel offers
views of the Catedral
@ Capilla de San José
This side chapel along
figures adorn the center.
Metropolitana from the west wall of the

across the Zócalo. cathedral can be easily
recognized by the colorful
ribbons placed in front of
• Map Q2
the statue of Saint Ramon.
• Zócalo
The devout believe that a
• 5521-7737
woman can leave a ribbon
• Metro Zócalo
inscribed with a personal
• 8am–8pm daily
message and a lock to put
• Free
a stop to gossip doing the
rounds in the village.
12

$ Capilla de San
Felipe de Jesús

Dedicated in 1636, this
chapel (right) honors San
Felipe de Jesús, the first

Mexican Saint. The 17th-

century paintings
illustrate scenes from his
life. The urn on the right
side of the chapel
contains the remains of ( Miguel Cabrera
Masterpieces
Don Agustin de Iturbe, Four spectacular
the first Mexican ruler masterpieces by Oaxaca
following independence painter Miguel Cabrera
from Spain. hang in the vestibules
above the cathedral’s
& Pinnacle
Sculptures of the
side doors (below).
three virtues, Faith,

Hope, and Charity, adorn
the pinnacle of the clock
tower designed by
Spanish architect Manuel
Tolsá and completed in
1813. Tolsá was the
cathedral’s final architect,
and was responsible for
adding many of the
details that harmonized
and unified the
completed design. ) Capilla de Nuestra
Señora de los
Dolores
* Metropolitana
Sacrarium
The oldest chapel in the
cathedral, it was com-
The sculpted façade of pleted around 1600. The
this parish church, which image of Nuestra Señora
is attached to the de los Dolores in the
cathedral, is considered center of the main altar
to be the foremost is by Clemente Terrazas.
example of the
% Altar del Perdón
This splendid gold
Churrigueresque style in
Mexico. Built by Spaniard
Cathedral Guide
altar, created by Lorenzo Rodríquez from Enter from the
Jerónimo de Balbás, 1740–68, the interior is in courtyard on the north
stands behind the Doors the Moorish style. side of the Zócalo. In
of Forgiveness, the the front center, is the
central entrance to the Altar del Perdón. Behind
cathedral from the Zócalo. this altar are the choir
The doors are open only loft and two pipe
on special occasions. organs. Next is the
main altar with the Altar
^ Altar de los Reyes

This Baroque master-
de los Reyes at the rear
of the cathedral. There
piece (right) by sculptor are seven chapels along
Jerónimo de Balbás is the left and right side of
dedicated to canonized the cathedral and at its
Kings and Queens. The center, between the
altar has the paintings choir loft and the main
Adoration of the Kings altar, hangs the pendu-
and Assumption of the lum that measures the
Virgin both by Juan tilt of the building.
Rodríguez Juárez.
The cathedral was built on the site of an Aztec temple 13

Palacio Nacional
This enormous palace dominates the entire east
side of the Zócalo. Aztec Emperor Moctezuma II’s
castle stood here before Cortés destroyed it and
constructed his own. The building has been

expanded several times, and today it is used by
the Mexican Government. The impressive edifice is
made of granite and tezontle, a red stone.
Top 10 Features
1 Façade
2 Epic of the Mexican People Pegasus Fountain, Palacio
3 Historical Murals by Diego Nacional
Rivera
4 Independence Bell
Staircase of the Empress,
Palacio Nacional
5 Benito Juárez Museo
6 Garden Patio
Have your photo ID 7 Pegasus Fountain
available when you
8 Staircase of the Empress
enter the door; the
guards are efficient
9 Presidential Balcony
and may look in large 0 Flag Ceremony
bags.
The rooftop ! Façade

Three doors provide
restaurant of the access to the impressive
Hotel Majestic (see interior of this executive
p113) offers excellent palace. The door on the
views of the Zócalo right is for diplomatic
and is the perfect
place to eat breakfast
access only and is also the
door used by the President £ Historical Murals by
Diego Rivera
and watch the flag of Mexico. The door to the The second floor hallway
hoisting ceremony.
left was formerly used by has nine murals by Rivera
the Finance Department painted from 1941–52. Eight
and was dreaded by all portray idealized views of
• Map Q3 who had to enter to settle village life before Cortés
• Zócalo their taxes. The central came. The ninth shows a
• Metro Zócalo door is the main entrance village after Cortés’ arrival.
• 8am–6pm daily and leads into a grand
• Free central courtyard.
• Photo ID required for
admittance
@ Epic of the Mexican
People
Diego Rivera painted his
exquisitely colorful and
detailed masterpiece on
the walls of the central
staircase from 1925–35. It
provides an incredibly rich
and vibrant visual history of
the Mexican people from $ Independence Bell
Padre Miguel Hidalgo
pre-Hispanic times through rang this bell (above) in
the Mexican Revolution. 1810, when he called for
Full of life and whimsy, the Mexican Independence. The
mural captures the very bell was moved here in
essence of the nation. 1896 by Porfirio Díaz.
14 There is a tradition of ringing the Independence Bell every

September 15th, Mexican Independence Day

& Pegasus Fountain
The beautiful main
courtyard inside the
palace features a lovely
fountain with a statue of
Pegasus, the Greek

winged horse.
Government functions

are held here.

) Flag Ceremony
% Benito
Museo
Juárez With impressive pomp
The President’s office, * Staircase

Empress
of the and ceremony a large
Mexican honor guard
bedroom, dining room, This simple but elegant marches out of the
parlor, and other interest- staircase with its ornate Palacio Nacional each
ing memorabilia from his brass railings has only morning and crosses the
time in office are featured two flights of stairs and street to the Zócalo
in this museum (above). no visible support. where they raise an
enormous Mexican flag
(below). All the hustle and
bustle in the plaza halts as
the flag is raised
in a formal drill.
The ceremony
is repeated
every evening
when the
huge flag is
lowered.
^ Garden Patio
A delightful botanical
garden (below) lies sec-
Site Guide
luded in the inner court-
yard at the back of the Enter through the
palace just beyond the central door and turn
entrance to the Benito left. The staircase with
Juárez Museo. It is quiet, the Diego Rivera murals
is on your left. Walk up
peaceful, and sheltered
from traffic noise. Walk ( Presidential
Balcony the stairs, the murals
the geometrically placed, On Mexican Indepen- are on the walls above
paved garden paths or sit dence Day, September the landing. Continue up
on a shady bench and 15th, the president of the stairs to the second
enjoy one of the city’s Mexico stands on this floor and turn left to see
prettiest gardens. balcony (above) just the historical murals.
above the central Return to the first floor
door of the and turn left to visit the
palace and Staircase of the
repeats Padre Empress, the Benito
Miguel Hidalgo’s Juárez Museo, and the
famous call for Garden Patio. Walk
Independence through the garden and
(see p38). Thou- re-enter the palace.
sands of spec- Cross the main court-
tators gather on yard and come back out
the Zócalo to wit- through the front door.
ness the event.
Sign up for DK’s email newsletter on traveldk.com 15

Templo Mayor
In Aztec times the Templo Mayor stood in a sacred
walled compound in the center of Tenochtitlán
(present day Mexico City) before Cortés destroyed
it. In 1978 a massive round carved stone was

uncovered accidentally near Zócalo that led to a
major archeological project, uncovering the ruins
of the magnificent double pyramid complex.
Top 10 Features £ Monolith of

Coyolxauhqui
1 Museo del Templo Mayor This magnificent circular
carved stone (above)
2 Lacustrine Fountain
depicts the dismembered
3 Monolith of Coyolxauhqui Coyolxauhqui, goddess of
4 Wall of Skulls the moon.
5 Chacmool Carving
Model of the temple and 6 Eagle Knights
its construction stages
7 Templo Mayor Construction
Early morning (or a Stages
cloudy day) is the
8 Temple of Tláloc
best time to visit the
9 Serpent Head Sculptures
ruins, before the sun’s
glare makes it difficult 0 Tenochtitlán Ceremonial
to see the details of Center

sculptures, murals,
and construction.
! Museo
Mayor
del Templo
Bypass the street This museum designed by

food surrounding Mexican architect Pedro
Templo Mayor and
head to one of the
Ramírez Vázquez displays
many of the artifacts dis- $ Wall of
Skulls
hotels along the covered during the excava- During the Aztec
south side of Zócalo, tion of the temple ruins, times skulls of
including the original mono- sacrificed
or head farther south
lith of Coyolxauhqui. prisoners were
along Francisco I.
mounted on wooden
Madero to #29 and
stakes forming a wall

stop in at Los of skulls (below), or a
Bisquets Obregón. Tzompantli. The Wall of
Skulls found in the
tMap Q2 museum is a replica of the
tSeminario 8, on the original. In the ruins, there
east side of the Catedral is also a wall of stucco-
Metropolitana covered human skulls that
t5542-0256
tMetro Zócalo @ Lacustrine Fountain
An excellent fountain-
forms a side wall of the
Tzompantli Altar.
t9am–5pm Tue–Sun cum-map (above) is located
t45 pesos, free Sun for in the plaza. The base of the
Mexican citizens and fountain forms a bas-relief
residents map of ancient Tenochtitlán
tAdditional charges for surrounded by the lake,
video camera; audio canals, irrigation ditches,
guides available in and small islands. This pro-
Spanish and English vides a contextual overview
twww.templomayor. of the city that surrounded
inah.gob.mx Templo Mayor before the
Spanish conquest.
16 The 20 minute video in the museum, near the entrance, is

excellent
& Templo Mayor
Construction
Stages
The Templo Mayor was
enlarged seven times as
% Chacmool Carving the stature and pros-

This polychrome perity of the Aztecs
sculpted figure (above) in increased. These enlarge-
a reclining pose cradles a ments, referred to as
bowl on its belly which construction stages, can
was used to hold peace- be seen on a walk
ful offerings to Tláloc. through the ruins (right).
) Tenochtitlán
Ceremonial Center
This large scale model of
Entrance
Templo Mayor surround-
ed by other buildings in
the ceremonial

center of Tenochtitlán
creates a powerful
visual contrast to the
Key Spanish colonial build-
Ruins ings standing in the city
center. The imposing
First Floor architecture of the
Second Floor temple and the city of
Tenochtitlán were so
Third Floor impressive that the early
Spanish colonizers
Fourth Floor
compared it to the great
Fifth Floor cities of Europe.
Site Guide
* Temple of Tláloc
The Aztecs made Look at the fountain
peaceful offerings to the near the entrance which
Chacmool sculpture in depicts the pre-Hispanic
the Temple of Tláloc, god Aztec city of ancient
of rain, to ensure Tenochtitlán. Turn left as
successful harvests, you enter the gate and
fertility, and abundance. follow the one-way
outdoor walkway
through the ruins. At the
far end of the ruins the
path ends at the
museum entrance. Look
at the model of the
Tenochtitlán Ceremonial
Center as it would have
once stood, and then
visit the eight museum
^ Eagle Knights
Two of these remark- rooms in sequence. Turn
able life-size clay sculp- right at the museum
tures, each comprising entrance, watch the
video before proceeding
five interlocking parts,
were discovered in the ( Serpent Head
Sculptures up the stairs to room 1.
House of the Eagles near Intricately carved and Continue through rooms
the temple. One of them brightly painted stone 2, 3, 4, and 5. Rooms 4
is on display in the serpent heads (above) and 5 are interconnec-
museum (above). The are seen to guard the ted. Finally take the
Eagle Knights were elite base of the main stairs back down to
Aztec warriors who staircase of this great rooms 6, 7, and 8.
dressed as birds of prey. Aztec temple.
Templo Mayor was a symbolic representation of an Aztec sacred 17

mythical place, Coatepec or “the Hill of the Serpent”
A true masterpiece of architectural design, the
lovely Palacio de Bellas Artes is one of Mexico $ Lobby and Vestibule
A classic Art Deco
City’s most beloved buildings and is home to an black marble stairway,
excellent performing arts center. It was designed leads into the vestibule.
Across the black-and-white
by Italian architect Adamo Boari. Its broad plaza marble floor are the metal-
and formal flower gardens blend into the natural lic theater doors (below).
beauty of the adjacent Alameda Central.
Top 10 Features
1 Statues of Pegasus
2 Façade Sculptures
3 Eagle
4 Lobby and Vestibule
5 Courtyard
Sculpture, central lunette,
6 Murals
7 Theater
Admission is free on 8 Art Exhibitions
Sundays; the theater
9 Museo Nacional de
is open to the public
Arquitectura
(1–1:30pm Mon–Fri
and during events). 0 Ballet Folklórico de Mexico
There is an extra
charge to visit the ! Statues of Pegasus
Four sculptures of the
Museo Nacional de winged horse, Pegasus, in
Arquitectura, of most a variety of aspects, by
interest to serious Agustín Querol, stand in
architecture fans. the esplanade in front of
the entrance to the
Dine surrounded by performing arts center
resplendent Art Deco
(below).
at the Café del Palacio
in the lobby.
tMap N2 £ Eagle
On the dome is Geza
tEje Central Lázaro Marotti’s sculpture of the
Cárdenas and Av Juárez Mexican national symbol, an
t5512-2593 eagle (below). It is perched
t10am–6pm Tue–Sun on a cactus, eating a snake.
t35 pesos, free Sun Figures under the eagle
twww.bellasartes.gob. represent comedy, tragedy,
mx drama, and lyrical drama.
@ Façade Sculptures
The exterior façade has
intricate and ornate
sculptures in the arch
above the main doorway. In
the center Leonardo
Bistolfi’s (1859–1933), Birth
of Venus, represents harm-
ony. The statues on either
side, by Boni, symbolize
love and hate.
20 Preceding pages Aerial view of Palacio de Bellas Artes at dusk

^ Murals
Famous muralists

Rufino Tamayo, Diego
Rivera, Davíd Alfaro
Siqueiros, and José
Clemente Orozco painted

their huge murals on the
walls of the second and
% Courtyard third floors of the
The four-story court- building facing the

yard is light, airy, and courtyard. The contrast
dramatic with red marble between the traditional
columns and a high, four- Art Deco interior and the
domed ceiling (above). political murals painted
with unusually bright Key
colors heightens the
dramatic tone in First Floor
the space.
Second Floor
Third Floor
Fourth Floor
& Theater
The theater has a
magnificent stage curtain
made by Tiffany & Co. of
New York. The depiction
of the Valley of Mexico
on the curtain is formed
with a million pieces of
opalescent glass. The
stunning crystal ceiling
depicts Apollo and the
nine muses on Mount
Olympus.
Mural Controversy
Diego Rivera, an
( Museo Nacional
de Arquitectura * Art Exhibitions
The second and third
avowed communist,
was commissioned to
This museum occupies floors have several rooms paint a mural for the
the fourth floor of the and galleries that host Rockefeller Center, New
palacio. Changing exhi- international travelling art York. Nelson Rockefeller,
bits feature various asp- exhibitions. An excep- a staunch capitalist,
ects of Mexico City, and tional recent exhibition approved Rivera’s
occasionally, international featured four centuries of preliminary drawings
architecture. European masterpieces but when Rivera later
in oil (below). included a portrait of
) Ballet Folklórico
de México
Lenin in the mural,
Rockefeller insisted that
Folk dances from many Lenin be removed.
regions of Mexico are Rivera refused, and the
presented on Wednesday mural was destroyed.
and Sunday evenings by Rivera reproduced the
the excellent Ballet mural on the third floor
Folklórico. Colorful costu- of the palacio with the
mes, lively music, choreo- title Man, Controller of
graphy, and stage sets the Universe.
offer fine entertainment.
Construction of the Palacio de Bellas Artes began in 1904, was 21

interrupted by the Mexican Revolution, and completed in 1934
Bosque de Chapultepec
Since the arrival of the Aztecs, Chapultepec has
been a special place for residents. Today this 1,600- £ Hot-Air
Rides
Balloon
acre (648-hectare) green urban park includes This tethered balloon rises
woodlands, forest, lakes, gardens, and walking 400 ft (123 m), offering
awesome views of the
paths, and provides an abundance of activities for park and Mexico City. On
the entire family. Los Pinos, at the edge of the park, a clear day, it is the ideal
is the official residence of Mexico’s President. place to take panoramic
shots of the city.
Top 10 Features
1 Museo Nacional de
Antropología
2 Castillo de Chapultepec
3 Hot-Air Balloon Rides
4 Zoológico de Chapultepec
Paddle Boats, Lago de 5 Monumento a Los Niños
Chapultepec
Héroes
Sunday is the busiest 6 Papalote Museo del Niño
day in the park.
7 Museo Tecnológico de la CFE
8 Lago de Chapultepec, Lago
The Turibus route
winds through the Mayor, and Lago Menor
park with stops near 9 La Feria de Chapultepec
the major attractions. 0 Museo de Historia Natural
Dine with a view of

the lake at Meridiem
on Lago Mayor (see
p87), or enjoy the
excellent café at the
$ Zoológico de
Chapultepec
Museo Nacional de This excellent zoo houses
Antropología. more than 2,000 animals in
natural habitats, and is
renowned for its successful
• Map D4
captive breeding of giant
• Main entrance at the
pandas. Broad shady paths,
west end of Paseo de la
Reforma ! Museo Nacional de
Antropología
excellent viewing areas,
and well planned rest stops
• Museo Technológico
Mexico’s largest museum, and food courts make this
de la CFE: Map C5;
this archeological treasure a nice place to spend a few
Section 2, Bosque de
trove has 12 halls filled hours. Rare animals like
Chapultepec; 5516-0965;
with brilliant artifacts that Mexican naked dogs and
9am–5pm Daily; Free
relate each significant native wolves can be seen
• La Feria de
chapter in Mexico’s pre- here (see p84).
Chapultepec: Map C5;
Hispanic human history
(see pp8–9).
Low Season 10am–6pm
Tue–Sun; High Season
10am–8pm daily; Adm
@ Castillo de
Chapultepec
The former residence of
• Museo de Historia
Mexican presidents, the
Natural: Map B6;
stunning castle (see p24–5)
with sweeping terraces
and manicured gardens,
10am–5pm Tue–Sun;
now houses the Museo
Adm, free Tue
Nacional de Historia.
22 Chapultepec means grasshopper hill in Náhuatl, the language of

the Aztecs
2
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a Los Niños
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commemorate the
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$9
heroic deaths of six $POTUJUVZFOUFT
young cadets during
the US invasion of
Mexico (see p84).
* Lago de Chapultepec, Lago

Mayor, and Lago Menor
The lakes are one of the most popular
features of the park, and on week-
ends they take on a festive air.
Hundreds of couples and families
walk the shady paths surrounding
them or take to the water in colorful
rental kayaks, rowboats, and
paddleboats. The walkways are filled
with vendors selling their wares.
^ Papalote
del Niño
Museo
( La Feria de
Chapultepec
Los Pinos
One of the best children’s More than 50 thrilling The official residence of
museums, this colorful games and rides the President of Mexico
and engaging museum including bumper cars, a was moved from the
has over 250 interactive haunted house, and a Castillo de Chapultepec
exhibits based on the traditional roller coaster to Los Pinos in 1935 by
themes of science, can be enjoyed at this President Lázaro
technology, and art. New amusement park. Cárdenas, when he deci-
attractions are added ded to turn the Castillo
every year. There is also into a museum for the
an IMAX Theater with ten public. The museum has
shows daily (see p85). two sections – the
Alcázar and the Castillo.
& Museo
Tecnológico de
President Cárdenas
selected an existing
la CFE estate within Bosque de
This museum highlights Chapultepec, La
the developments in
Mexican industry, ) Museo
Natural
de Historia Hormiga, as the official
presidential residence.
science, and technology. Several huge pastel He planted numerous
A detailed scale model of colored domes (above) pine trees on the
an electricity generating contain a wealth of estate, and changed the
plant, railway exhibits with exhibits covering the name to Los Pinos.
train cars and engines, natural world from the Today this lovely estate
and oil drilling equipment creation of the universe is heavily guarded and
are the major draws of to the evolution of life not open to the public.
the museum. and the world around us.

Left Gardens and fountains Center Garden of the Keep Right La Batalla de Zacatecas, A. Bolivar
Castillo de Chapultepec
! Museo Nacional de
Historia – Alcázar Section $ Staircase of the Lions
This elegant staircase with
The lavish east wing of the marble lions at the base provides
Castillo, known as the Alcázar, access to the rooftop Garden of
was the Presidential Residence the Keep. The staircase was built
and Mansion of Mexican leaders in 1878 to provide access to the
from 1864 through 1939. Today National Observatory, and was
the Alcázar and its gardens have remodeled in 1906 when the
been preserved to illustrate the lions and statuary were added.
lifestyle of the early presidents.
The personal articles of former
Mexican presidents are displayed
in 23 opulent rooms with lavish
furnishings (see p83).
@ Museo Nacional de
Historia – Castillo Section
This section of the museum is
based in the oldest portion of the
Castillo. The first floor’s rooms Staircase of the Lions, Alcázar Section
present Mexico’s turbulent history
from the Spanish conquest
through the Revolution. The sec- % Stained-Glass Windows
The east wing has five
ond floor has two rooms featuring exquisite French stained-glass
cultural and social displays windows. The windows at
from 1759–1917 (see p83). the top of the Staircase
of the Lions have Mexi-
£ Museo
Caracol
del can crests, one of an
eagle perched on a
The Galeria de Historia cactus devouring a
is known as Museo del snake, and two with a
Caracol because the grasshopper, denoting
building is shaped like a Chapultepec (Grass-
snail. A spiral walkway is Stained-glass hopper) Hill.
lined with exhibits that window
portray the struggle for
Mexican independence through ^
West Terrace
The terrace on the
the Revolution up to the mid-20th Castillo’s west side is landscaped
century. d Section 1, Bosque de with a lovely flower garden filled
$IBQVMUFQFDt.BQ&t with fountains and statues. The
tBNoQN5VFo4VOt"EN GSFF front balcony offers wonderful
4VOGPS.FYJDBOSFTJEFOUTtXXX views of Lago de Chapultepec
DIBQVMUFQFDDPNNY and vistas out across the park.
24
& Main Staircase
A dramatic double staircase
Knight, in the center of the
garden, was added in 1876.
with stone steps and wood-
capped brass railings leads to
the museum’s Castillo Section. ( South Terrace
This broad terrace is best

The upper level is decorated with known for the Monumento a
stunning stained-glass windows los Niños Héroes which was
and colorful murals. added in the 1930s. The Fountain
of the Grasshopper is located
right in the center of this grand,
sprawling terrace.
) Casa de los Espejos

A handsome building, this is
Mural of the Niños Héroes on main staircase also known as the House of
Mirrors after the 16 concave and
* Tall Knight and Garden

of the Keep
convex mirrors inside. They
distort the features of those who
This lovely formal garden offers look into them. d At the bottom of
views out over the city. The Tall the road leading to the Castillo
Top 10 Alcázar
Rooms
Alcázar
Viceroy Bernardo de Gálvez had the first castle built
1 Dining Room with china on Chapultepec Hill in 1785, but the building
from Díaz era remained unfinished. In 1841 construction resumed,
2 Ambassadors’ Reception creating a Military Academy. Emperor Maximilian I
Hall with French came into power in 1864 and refurbished the Castillo
furniture as his personal residence, creating a luxurious
3 Reading Room with European-style castle with terraced gardens and
Emperor Maximilian I’s patios. Expensive furnishings were ordered from Paris,
monogrammed books Vienna, and Italy. Later Porfirio Díaz remodeled and
4 Game Room collection extended the castle. The castle continued to be used
gifted to Maximilian I as a Presidential Mansion until 1939, when President
5 Smoking Room Lázaro Cárdenas moved to a smaller residence and
decorated in 19th- proclaimed the castle as the headquarters of the
century style National History Museum. In 1940 the eastern
6 Carlota’s Bedchamber section, the Alcázar, became a museum illustrating
with Maximilian I’s the lifestyle of the former presidents.
magnificent brass bed
7 Council Room and the
office used by various
former presidents
8 Díaz’s Bedchamber
decorated in French
Empire style
9 Carmen’s Bedchamber
used by Díaz’s wife
0 The President’s Office
used by Díaz
Artwork on the wall of a patio, Alcázar
An upper room of the Museo Nacional de Historia displays a 25

collection of objects acquired from Tsar Nicholas by Porfirio Díaz
Museo Nacional de Arte
Presenting the most important Mexican art
collection in the world, the Museo Nacional de
Arte is housed in a majestic Renaissance-style
palacio. The collection includes the Paintings of

New Spain (1550–1810), the art of the 19th
century – Building the Nation (1810–1900) –
and Modern Mexico (1900–1954).
Top 10 Features
1 Palacio de Comunicaciones
2 The Virgin of the Apocalypse £ ElEl Caballito
Caballito (1803)
or “The
(1760) Little Horse,” (above)
3 El Caballito (1803) Manuel Tolsá’s famous
4 The Torture of Cuauhtémoc statue, is of King Carlos
(1893) IV of Spain, dressed
in Roman
A gallery in the Museo
5 The Valley of Mexico from clothing
Nacional de Arte the Santa Isabel Mountain astride his
On the top floor to Range (1875) horse.
the right of the 6 Malgré Tout (1898)
staircase there is a 7 Apotheosis of Peace (1903)
small orientation 8 The Offering (1913)
room, where you can 9 The Cloud (1931)
see the artistic 0 The Hot-Air Balloon (1930)
evolution of the

famous statues by
Tolsá and Sebastián, Palacio de
both known as El ! Comunicaciones
Caballito (The Little Built in an eclectic style
Horse). the interior of this imposing
palacio has a soaring stair-
There are many case decorated with intri-
restaurants nearby. cate wrought iron work.
Try Los Girasoles for Glorious paintings adorn
the building’s ceilings.
traditional Mexican
food, or Taco Inn for a
quick Mexican meal, @ The Virgin of the
Apocalypse (1760)
or Sushi Roll if you
prefer Japanese (see
Painted at the height of his
career, Miguel Cabrera $ The Torture of
Cuauhtémoc (1893)
p73). used intense color to Following the War of
portray the theme of The Reform in 1861 the new
• Map P2 Virgin of the Apocalypse government placed a
• Tacuba 8, Col Centro triumphing over evil cultural emphasis on the
• 5130-3400 (below). history of pre-Hispanic
• Metro 2, 8 Bellas Mexico, and by 1893
Artes; Turibus Plaza ancient Mexico was being
Manuel Tolsa-Munal #10 presented as having had a
• Tue–Sun 10:30am– glorious past. This
5:30pm monumental sized painting
• 30 pesos, free Sun (above) by Leandro
• www.munal.com.mx Izaguirre depicts the
legend of Cuauhtémoc, the
last Aztec Emperor, and his
torture by the Spanish.
26
& Apotheosis of
Peace (1903) ( The Cloud (1931)
Gerardo Murillo, best
In this monumental work known as Dr. ATL, is one
(below) Alberto Fuster of the most important
celebrates the years of Mexican landscape
peace Mexico enjoyed artists. He developed

during the reign of Díaz Altcolors, a mixture of
by comparing Mexico to pigment and resin that
% The Valley of
Mexico from
ancient Greece. Neo-
Classical in style, the
he used on many
different surfaces and
the Santa Isabel painting mimics the especially for his
Mountain Range opaque colors found on landscapes. The Cloud
(1875) Renaissance frescos. was painted at the height
José María Velasco of his artistic prowess.
painted this scene
directly from nature, a
first for this skilled and ) The Hot-Air
Balloon (1930)
highly acclaimed In bright colors and
landscape artist exquisite detail, this
(above). painting by Ramón Cano
Manilla depicts people
in traditional dress,
authentic buildings and
landscape, and a hot-air
balloon decorated in the
National colors.

Key
First Floor
Second Floor
Third Floor
Museum Guide
Malgré Tout Enter the museum from
^ (1898) Plaza Manuel Tolsá,
Jesús F. Contreras pausing to look at El
was one of the first Caballito (The Little
Mexican sculptors to Horse), by Manuel Tolsá
embrace modernism. in the plaza, just in front
He studied in France of the museum.
Proceed to the grand
for a time, and
familiarized himself with * The Offering
(1913) central staircase and
the works of Auguste Saturnino Herrán turned walk up to the top floor
Rodin. Malgré Tout, a down a scholarship for to admire the stunning
magnificent marble study in Europe, mural on the ceiling.
sculpture portrays a choosing to remain in Walk into the reception
beautiful woman Mexico. In this master- hall straight ahead to
shackled and bound, still piece of Modernist look at the ceiling mural
straining and yearning for Nationalism, he captures there. Walk through the
freedom (below). the unfolding of life. An halls on this floor in
old man, a youth, and a sequence to get the
baby are travelling most out of your visit.
through life in a Plan to spend most
Xochimilco-style of your time on the
barge filled with second floor where you
marigolds, can see the deve-
flowers tradi- lopment of unique
tionally associated Mexican artistic styles.
with death (above).

Xochimilco Floating Gardens
Every weekend, visitors and the residents of
Mexico City flock to Xochimilco to relax, party, and
have fun. Aboard colorfully decorated trajineras
(flat boats), they enjoy the beauty of these ancient

canals built by the Aztecs. The floating gatherings
are attended to by food and beverage vendors,
musicians, and craft merchants.
Top 10 Features
1 Boat Ride Colorful trajineras at an
embarcadero
2 Embarcaderos and Trajineras
3 Floating Mariachis
4 Shrines
Flower vendor 5 Floating Food Vendors
A pedicab is a fun 6 Flowers for Women
way to reach the 7 Floating Crafts Vendors
embarcaderos from 8 Flower Gardens and
Xochimilco village. Nurseries
Bus tours to the 9 Parque Ecológico de
floating gardens
Xochimilco
provide an instant
0 Waterside Markets and
group of friends.
Restaurants
Many of the vendors
and musicians wear
brilliant costumes or
! Boat Ride
A boat trip through the
native clothing. canals in a colorful trajinera
is the best way to experi-
Photographers are
ence the floating gardens
expected to pay for
of Xochimilco. Explore the
taking their pictures.
festive commercial area as
well as the quieter places
Have a floating picnic farther from the landing.
and sample the food
offered by vendors on
boats.
£ Floating Mariachis
Mariachi groups and
tMap C4 marimba bands travel up
tNuevo Nativitas, and down the canals. On
Zacapa, Salitre, and being hired, the leader
Caltongo, the main boards your boat to dance
embarcaderos, are near and sing, accompanied by
the center of Xochimilco; a boatload of musicians
embarcadero Cuemanco tied alongside.
leads to Parque
Ecológico de Xochimilco
t5676-0810
tMetro 2 to Tasqueña; @ Embarcaderos
Trajineras
and
then Light Rail to the The flat-bottomed boats are
outskirts of Xochimilco painted with colorful flower
village; taxi or pedicab to motifs. Several embar-
the embarcaderos caderos (boat jetties) are
t150 to 200 pesos found near the center of
twww.xochimilco.df.
town. Nativitas is the
gob.mx
largest and busiest.
28
& Floating
Crafts Vendors
Brilliant rugs, colorful
ceramics, and all
manner of hand-
crafted items and

jewelry are also
available for sale on
small boats. Vendors
$ Shrines
At the embarcaderos
float by, holding their
wares up for all to
and along some canals see, and will come
can be found small, well- alongside, when
decorated shrines filled invited, to give you a
with flowers honoring the closer look at the
boaters’ patron saints. selection on offer.
( Parque Ecológico
de Xochimilco
For a different experience,
head to embarcadero
Cuemanco where you can
float in relative peace and
quiet through protected
areas of pristine natural
beauty. It is also popular
with birdwatchers.
) Waterside Markets
and Restaurants
The embarcadero
Nativitas has a bustling
shore-side market selling
souvenirs and some good
restaurants that can be
easily reached by boat.
Chinampas
The Xochimilcas devised
a unique method of
farming. They built rafts
% Floating
Vendors
Food
* Flower Gardens
and Nurseries
with tree limbs and
reeds, piled rich lake
Vendors in small boats Flower gardens, mud onto the rafts and
offer food for your table. greenhouses, and then planted fast-
Many have kitchens nurseries are found all growing trees with a
onboard with hot soup along the banks of the deep root system in the
pots or grills to serve canals. The flowers soil. As the trees grew,
freshly cooked favorites. grown here are shipped the rafts became
Other boats supply beer to Mexico City and anchored to the lake
and soft drinks. throughout the Americas. bed. These chinampas,
or floating gardens,
^ Flowers
Women
for were soon thriving,
growing crops and
It is traditional to flowers. After the
give flowers to the Spanish conquest,
women in your Xochimilco was spared
party, and flower destruction because it
sellers float past was the main source of
offering a selection the city’s food.
of colorful blooms.
Widened for the 1968 Olympics, the canals near Cuemanco are 29
favored by kayakers and rowing teams
Villa de Guadalupe
The holiest Roman Catholic shrine in Latin
America is also the most visited in the world. It
was here in 1531 that an Aztec peasant named
Juan Diego claimed to have seen a vision of the

beautiful Virgin who requested that a chapel be
built. Over the centuries, pilgrims and the faithful
have come to worship the Virgin of Guadalupe.
Interior, Iglesia del Cerrito,
Top 10 Features Tepeyac (Little Hill)
1 Nueva Basílica
2 Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe
3 Antigua Basílica
4 Parroquia de Capuchinas
5 Museo de la Basílica de
Carillón, the stone cross,
Villa de Guadalupe
Guadalupe
6 Parroquia de Indios
Día de Nuestra 7 Capilla del Pocito
Señora de Guadalupe
8 Tepeyac
(Dec 12) is a national
holiday and the
9 Garden and Walkway
busiest day of the 0 Carrillón
year with thousands
of pilgrims making
the trip to Villa de ! Nueva Basílica
This new basilica was
Guadalupe. December consecrated in 1976. The
is also the busiest ground here is very soft,
month. and the circular design,
symbolizing the universality
The shop in the of God, also helps in evenly
Nueva Basílica sells distributing the weight of
an excellent selection the church (below).
of religious objects,
books, and prints.
£ Antigua Basílica
This Baroque temple
with four towers and a
central tiled dome was
Food is available consecrated in 1709.
from many street Designed by Pedro de
vendors in the area, Arríeta, the four domed-
but a better bet is to towers and other design
eat before or after elements are similar to
your visit. those found in the temple
of Solomon in Jerusalem.
• Map C2
• Plaza de las Américas 1
@ Nuestra Señora de
Guadalupe
In 1904 it became a
basilica in recognition of
• 5577-6022 The original image of the the devotion of the faithful.
• Metro 6 La Villa- Virgin on the cloak It was reopened
Basílica of Juan Diego in 2000 after
• 6am–9pm daily (right) is mounted being closed for
• Free; Museum 5 high on the wall many years while
pesos behind the main structural supp-
• www. altar. Viewers orts were added
virgendeguadalupe. stand on moving to protect it from
org.mx walkways that the ever increas-
pass below the ing tilt as it sank
image. into the soft soil.
30 Pedro Ramírez Vázquez, the famous Mexican architect, designed

the Nueva Basílica

% Museo de la
Basílica de
Guadalupe
The collections in this

interesting museum are
primarily of artistic reli-

gious objects related to
$ Parroquia
Capuchinas
de Our Lady of Guadalupe.
There are paintings, ^ Parroquia
Indios
de
Initially a convent for sculptures, textiles, and This chapel dates from
Capuchin nuns and then carvings. There is also a 1649 and in the small sac-
used as a hospital, it collection of paintings by risty on the right can be
became a parish church artists including Cabrera, seen the remains of the
in 1929 (above). Villalpando, and Correa. foundations of the original
chapel built in 1531. Juan
Diego lived his final years
in this place, and the
chapel is frequently ref-
erred to as the Chapel of
Juan Diego (below).
& Capilla del Pocito

Our Lady of
Guadalupe appeared to
Juan Diego at the spring
housed in this lovely
circular chapel. Built in
1791, the dome is dec-
( Garden
Walkway
and
* Tepeyac
Juan Diego found the
orated with blue and
white tiles.
A tiled walkway with roses which appeared
stairs and ramps was miraculously in winter on Juan Diego’s
built to direct the flow of the top of Tepeyac, the
people to the Little Hill. Little Hill. Capilla del Vision
Near the base of the Cerrito was built in 1749 When Juan Diego told
staircase leading up the on the site. Fernando the local bishop about
hill is a lovely rose gar- Leal painted seven murals the story of the vision,
den. The path returning depicting the story of the he was met with skepti-
from The Little Hill curves appearance of the Virgin cism. The Virgin reap-
through a large garden to Juan Diego. peared to Diego and told
area with fountains and him to gather flowers,
statues (below).
) Carrillón
The huge stone cross
and although it was win-
ter, Spanish roses were
at the far end of the blooming at Tepeyac.
plaza has bells that ring When Diego opened his
every hour, and has four cloak to show the bishop
different ways of telling the unseasonal flowers,
time. There is a modern an image of the Virgin
clock, an astronomical was miraculously imprin-
clock, a sun dial, and an ted on his cloak. The
Aztec calendar clock with prelate was convinced.
18 months of 20 days.
Juan Diego was canonized in 2002, becoming the first indigenous 31

saint in the Americas
Teotihuacán
Founded around 100 BC, Teotihuacán became
Mesoamerica’s cultural and commercial center. At
its peak – around AD 650 – it covered 8 sq miles
(20 sq km) and included pyramids, temples, and

housing for 200,000 people. However, very little
is known about this great civilization and why
they eventually abandoned the city.
Partially restored mural
Top 10 Features depicting feathered coyotes
1 Pyramid of the Sun
2 Pyramid of the Moon
3 Avenue of the Dead
4 Quetzalpapalotl Palace
Jaguar Mural, along the Complex
Avenue of the Dead
5 Temple of Quetzalcoatl
Many Mexico City 6 Museum
travel agencies offer 7 Ciudadela
sightseeing bus tours 8 Palace of Temantitla
to Teotihuacán daily. 9 Tetitla
0 Atetelco
The best view of the
ruins is from the top
of the Pyramid of the
Moon. ! Pyramid of the Sun
The pyramid’s base
measures 738 ft (225 m)
There is a tram that along each side. A tunnel
stops at the major under the main staircase
attractions. leads to small chambers of
ceremonial importance. A
monumental staircase with
There is a restaurant
248 steep steps and five
and café at the Visitor
Center.
landings rises 213 ft (65 m)
to a flat platform that once £ Avenue of the Dead
From the Pyramid of the
supported a temple. Moon a 1-mile (2-km) long
t.FYJDP4UBUF-BT road leads to the Citadel,
1JSÈNJEFT .FY% and continues another 2
UPMM
NJMFT LN
miles (3 km) beyond the
/&PG.FYJDP$JUZ excavations. The 131-ft (40-
t
m) wide road is lined with
t.FUSPUP"VUPCVTFT nearly identical buildings
EFM/PSUF5IFOUBLF#VT which the Aztecs mistakenly
NBSLFEi1ÓSBNJEFTw believed to be tombs when
GSPN$FOUSBMEF they named the road.
"VUPCVTFTEFM/PSUFJO
.FYJDP$JUZ @ Pyramid
Moon
of the Archeologists believe that
these were used to house
tBNoQN The oldest and most civic, government, and
tQFTPT important pyramid stands at religious functions (below).
t.VTFVNBNoQN the north end of the
EBJMZ QFTPTGSFF Avenue of the Dead
4VOUSBNQFTPT (above). Archeological
tXXXWJTJUNFYJDPDPN excavations have
revealed several burial
sites within, that have
sacrificial victims and
exquisite offerings.
32 Teotihuacán or “Place of the Gods” was named by the Aztecs

^ Museum
The museum
displays artifacts

found on-site, as

well as
archeology,

$ Quetzalpapalotl
Palace Complex
architecture, and
history exhibits
Three main palaces in (right). The glass floor in
the complex are believed the main room covers a
to have been the resi- scale model of the site.
dence of the Pyramid of Outside, the shady
the Moon’s High Priest botanical garden is an
(see p34). excellent place to relax.
( Tetitla
Located west of the loop
road, this complex of dwellings
illustrates how buildings were
constructed and reconstructed
over hundreds of years.
Fragments of intricate murals
adorn many of the walls within
this compound.
) Atetelco
This major dwelling complex
has its own small altar, and
many finely detailed murals
depicting jaguars, coyotes, birds,
and human figures. The complex
is located to the west across the
loop road.
Site Guide
Temple of Ciudadela You can park in any of
% Quetzalcoatl & This huge compound the five parking lots. Lot
The pyramid built around with its massive central #1 is the closest to the
AD 200 is ornately pyramid is surrounded by Visitor Center. Across
decorated with sculptures walls that measure the road is the Citadel
of feathered serpents 1,312 ft (400 m) on each and Temple of
(below), the rain god side. The massive walls Quetzalcoatl. Head
Tláloc, and the mythical of the compound are 23- north along the Avenue
crocodile-like symbols for ft (7-m) high with pyra- of the Dead, and turn to
fertile land. Numerous midal structures on top. the right to visit the
grave sites containing museum. Next proceed
sacrificial victims and
soldiers have been found * Palace of
Temantitla
to the Pyramid of the
Sun. Continue down the
within the pyramid. The most important and Avenue of the Dead to
colorful murals of the site see the Jaguar Mural on
cover the walls of this the right side of the
dwelling complex. Richly road and then the
detailed red, green, and Pyramid of the Moon at
yellow murals depict the north end of the
Tláloc and his watery Avenue. Finally, explore
universe. Other murals the structures of the
include a priest sowing nearby Quetzalpapalotl
seeds and people Palace and complex.
swimming and playing.
Visit the Museo Nacional de Antropología to see more of the 33

objects found at Teotihuacán see pp8–9
Left Mural, Jaguar Palace Center Palace of Quetzalpapalotl Right Mural of a parrot-like bird
Quetzalpapalotl Palace Complex

! Plaza of the Moon
One of the sacred ceremon- ^ Decorative Merlons
The top inner rim of the
ial areas in the city, the plaza lies portico in the Patio of Pillars
between the Pyramid of the features numerous ornately
Moon and the Avenue of the carved stone merlons (battle-
Dead. The entrance to the ments) decorated with bas-relief
Quetzalpapalotl Palace Complex symbols of the calendar.
is reached from the southwest
corner of the plaza.
& Temple
Conches
of the Feathered
@ Entrance to the Palace of

Quetzalpapalotl
This temple, located on a level
below the palace, features an
A wide stone staircase leads ornately carved stone façade and
from the Plaza of the Moon up pillars decorated with bands of
to the covered east portico feathered conches and borders
supported by large columns. The of four-petal flower motifs.
portico opens into a great
antechamber that leads into the
main palace complex. * Mural of Parrot-like Bird
On the staircase leading to
the three-sided courtyard in front
£ Stone Serpent’s Head

Near the top of the
of the Temple of the Feathered
Conches is a brilliantly
broad stone staircase colored mural of a
leading to the portico, a parrot-like bird watering
huge carved stone a flower with its beak.
serpent’s head emerges
from the wall in a position
of prominence. Stone
( Jaguar Palace
The palace consists
serpent’s head of a large open plaza in
$ Palace of
Quetzalpapalotl
front of the middle temple.
The nearby staircases have
The largest and most elegant ramps shaped like snakes, while
structure in the palace complex, the sloping walls have murals of
this is believed to have been the jaguars in various poses.
high priest’s residence. The origi-
nal roof burned in the fires that
swept the city in about AD 750. ) Jaguar Murals
Murals of jaguars, blowing
feathered conch shells and with
% Patio of the Pillars

The Palace of Quetzalpapalotl
seashells on their flanks, adorn
the sloping walls of a few rooms
is named after the carved bird- in the palace. In other murals,
butterfly figures that adorn the jaguars are seen lying in nets in
pillars of the inner portico. a woman’s arms.
34
Top 10 Stages of History of Teotihuacán
Development Mystery surrounds the origins
1 200–150 BC: Small and language of the people
scattered agricultural who built the magnificent

settlements city of Teotihuacán, and
2 150–0 BC: Construction how this great city
of the Ceremonial came to be aban-
Center, Sun Pyramid, doned. Archeological
and Moon Pyramid discoveries show that
begins an influx of people from
3 AD 0–150: Completion other regions that occurred
of Sun and Moon in 200 BC resulted in a
Bones found in the site
Pyramids reorganization of the agri-
4 AD 150–200: Planned cultural groups inhabiting the valley and development
city developed on a of the new planned city. The Ceremonial Center
geometric grid; new contains the oldest buildings, with the Pyramid of the
buildings attached to Moon being built first, and the Temple of Quetzalcoatl
Sun and Moon Pyramids the last. The city was laid out on a grid pattern, with
5 AD 200–450: the Avenue of the Dead running north and south,
Consolidation of state; and an east-west road bisecting the city. All of the
government establishes buildings were constructed in the Talud-Tablero style,
control over economic, and sophisticated drainage and sewage systems
political, and religious were built. Religion was very important, and some of
systems the gods honored were Tláloc, god of Rain,
6 AD 450–650: Flourishing Chalchiuhtlicue, goddess of Water, and Quetzalcoatl,
economy, expansion of the Feathered Serpent. Home to many skilled artisans
buildings, murals and tradesmen, Teotihuacán developed trade
painted, and external throughout Mesoamerica, as its government also
expansion of the state extended their rule over neighboring areas. Drought,
7 AD 650–750: Population over-population, disease, and social unrest have all
growth and limited been suggested as causes of the city’s decline, which
agricultural land pose started about AD 650. An extensive fire around AD
serious internal crises; 750 engulfed much of the city. The buildings were
colonization and demand never rebuilt and gradually the city was abandoned.
for tribute emerge as
external threats
8 AD 750–800: Decline of
the power structure and
migration of the officials;
the city is damaged by a
huge fire
9 AD 800–950: Population
greatly diminished; city
is in ruins and mostly
abandoned
0 After AD 950: Toltec and
later Aztec groups hold
the ruins as sacred and
use for their own
religious ceremonies
Detail of a wall in the Quetzalpapalotl Palace Complex

Left The Aztec legend Center Moctezuma II meets Cortés Right Pancho Villa
Moments in History
! Early Inhabitants
A fertile volcanic valley with $ Colonial Capital
The Spanish built Mexico
abundant resources, a long grow- City on top of the ruins of
ing season, and pleasant climate Tenochtitlán. Silver mined all over
gave rise to the sophisticated Mexico fueled the city’s
culture that built Teotihuacán (see expansion and the building of
pp32–3), once the largest large palaces. When the silver
metropolis in the Western industry declined, the city
Hemisphere. Teotihuacán was a stagnated for much of the 17th
planned city with straight roads, and early 18th century.
plazas, government buildings, and
spectacular ceremonial pyramids.
The city reached the height of its % Mexican Independence
On September 16, 1810,
powers in AD 550, but was Padre Miguel Hidalgo famously
abandoned in around AD 750. called for independence from
Spain. But the city remained a
@ Aztec Empire
The Aztecs arrived from the
royalist holdout until 1824 when a
federal republic, the United States
north, initially as mercenaries of Mexico, was formed. Turbulent
and workers. Around 1325 their years followed and from 1833 to
god Huitzilopochtli advised them 1855 Santa Anna became
to settle where they found an president 11 times.
eagle on a cactus devouring a
snake. This they observed in
Tenochtitlán. The Aztecs were
ruthless fighters and by the
1420s controlled the beautiful
and extensive city. They devel-
oped a firm hierarchy with an
emperor, and their conquests
spread to the east and south.
£ Spanish Conquest
Hernán Cortés, the Spanish Priest and revolutionist crowning Mexico
conquistador, landed with his
troops near Veracruz in 1519. As
he marched toward Tenochtitlán, ^ US Invasion
The USA invaded Mexico in
then ruled by Moctezuma II, he 1847 and occupied Mexico City
joined forces with the Tlaxcalans, for ten months. During the battles
a strong tribe that resisted Aztec in Bosque de Chapultepec (see
dominance. After a bloody and pp22–3), six young cadets, the
destructive siege in 1521, Cortés Niños Héroes, leapt to their death
was able to defeat the Aztecs. rather than be captured.
38 Preceding pages Pyramid of the Sun, Teotihuacán

Top 10 Historical
Figures
! Emperor Moctezuma II
(1466–1520)
Expanded the Aztec empire.

The Spanish captured him in a
battle and later killed him.
The Storming of Chapultepec, 1847
@ Hernán Cortés
(1485–1547)
& Mexico’s most loved leader,
War of Reform
His successful invasion of
Mexico began the Spanish
Benito Juárez, came to power in colonization of the Americas.
1855. He enacted laws that res-
tricted the power of the Church.
A bitter war ensued, and finally
£ La Malinche
(1496–1529)
The indigenous woman who
in 1861 the liberals won and accompanied Cortés as inter-
Juárez was elected President. preter and advisor (see p90).
* The Maximillian Affair

In 1863, a French army
$ Miguel Hidalgo y
Costilla (1753–1811)
A priest, he is famous for his
invaded Mexico and the brief rule call to arms for independence.
of Austrian Emperor Maximilian I
began before he was deposed
and executed in 1867. In those
% Santa Anna
(1794–1876)
four years he remodelled the Mexican military leader
and 11 time president – the
Castillo de Chapultepec (see last in 1853.
pp24–5) and built the boulevard,
today called Paseo de la Reforma
(see pp74–7). After the Republic
^ Benito Juárez
(1806–72)
was restored, Juárez returned to The most loved president, he
restored the republic and
power until his death in 1872. modernized Mexico.
( Mexican Revolution
Dictator Porfirio Díaz came
& Emperor
(1832–67)
Maximilian I
From Austria’s imperial family,

to power in 1872. Authoritarian
he briefly became Emperor in
yet visionary, he modernized the 1864 before being executed.
education and transportation
systems. But the divide between
rich and poor increased, and
* Porfirio Díaz
(1830–1915)
when the Díaz government Army general and president,
he initiated many reforms and
annulled the 1910 victory by modernized Mexico.
opponent Francisco I. Madero,
the Mexican Revolution began.
( Pancho Villa
(1878–1923)
Mexican folk hero, he was
) Twentieth
and Reform
Century Growth
one of the foremost leaders
of the Mexican Revolution.
The Revolution ended with Álvaro
Obregón taking control in 1920.
Under the ensuing stable
) Francisco I. Madero
(1873–1913)
government, Mexico flourished A politician, he opposed the
rule of Porfirio Díaz but was
and its capital grew exponentially, soon deposed and executed.
and it continues to grow today.
Many public buildings of Centro Histórico were Church properties 39

re-purposed or rebuilt after the War of Reforms (1857–61)
Left Courtyard, Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso Right Gardens, Castillo de Chapultepec
Historic Sites
! Iglesia y Hospital de
Jesús Nazareno % Casa de la Primera
Imprenta de América
The tomb of Hernán Cortés Constructed in 1524, the first
lies here. To the rear of the printing press in the Americas
church is the place where was installed here in 1534 by
Moctezuma II met Cortés Viceroy Antonio de Mendoza.
in 1519. Half a block south Today, the house displays a
is the Hospital de Jesús model of the press and
Nazareno, built on Cortés’ hosts temporary exhibits.
command in 1524 to treat Casa de la Primera d -JDFOJBEP7FSEBEBOE
Spanish soldiers. d 20 de Imprenta de América .POFEBt.BQ2t
/PWJFNCSFt.BQ2 tBNoQNEBJMZt'SFF
ttBNoQN.POo4BUt'SFF
@ Castillo de Chapultepec ^ Zócalo

This is the most important
In 1841 the building was plaza in Mexico. The cultural,
repaired and adapted for use as political, and historical center of
a military academy. The last the city, it is also known as the
battle of the US invasion of Plaza de la Constitución. It was
Mexico in 1847 was fought here called Zócalo after only the plinth
TFFQQo
. ([ØDBMP) was laid of an indepen-
dence monument commissioned
£ Palacio Nacional
Originally the site of Aztec
by President Santa Anna in 1843,
but never completed TFFQ
.
Emperor Moctezuma II’s palace,
Cortés built his own palace there
after his victory. In 1562 it & Parque Alameda Central
This is the city’s oldest park
became the residence of Mexico’s with elegant fountains and shady
viceroys and the headquarters for paths. It was once reserved for
all of Spain’s colonial government the exclusive use of the aristo-
in Mexico TFFQQo
. cracy. That practice ended after
the War of Mexican Indepen-
$ Paseo de la Reforma
The boulevard was built in the
dence in 1821 TFFQ
.
1860s by Emperor Maximilian I to

connect Castillo de Chapultepec,
his official residence, with the
Palacio Nacional. First known as
the Causeway of the Empress, it
was inspired by the Champs-
Elyseés in Paris. It was renamed
after the restoration of the
Republic in 1867 TFFQQo
. Fountain, Parque Alameda Central
40 Aztec dancers, concheros, frequently perform at the Zócalo

accompanied by drums
* Palacio de Bellas Artes
It was conceived by Porfirio
Top 10 Pre-Hispanic
Sites
Díaz to be the cultural showpiece
of his regime, and construction
began in 1904. But, swampy
! Teotihuacán
The site comprises 8 sq
miles (20 sq km) of pyramids

subsoil and the onset of the and temple ruins (see pp32–3).
Mexican Revolution stopped
work. By 1916 only the grand
façades were completed.
@ Tlatelolco
The most important Aztec
Construction resumed in 1932, market of Mesoamerica, now
known as Plaza de las Tres
and the building was completed Culturas (see p95).
in 1934 (see pp20–21).
£ Templo Mayor
The largest and most
( Antiguo Colegio de San
Ildefonso important temple stood at the
center of Tenochtitlán (see
Originally built by Jesuit friars in pp16–17).
1588, the property was seized by
the Spanish in 1767. After inde-
pendence it became a National
$ Zócalo
Major market area and site
Preparatory School. Elected presi- of festivities during the Aztec
Empire (see p67).
dent in 1920, the reformist Álvaro
Obregón wanted art to mend the
country and by 1922 muralists % Pirámide de Cuicuilco
An unusual circular pyra-
were hired to decorate the interior mid at Cuicuilco, the earliest
walls. Diego Rivera, David Alfaro known city in the Valley of
Mexico. d 5606-9758 • 9am–
Siqueiros, and José Clemente
5pm daily • Free
Orozco painted some of the best
examples of Mexico’s muralist
movement here (see p68). ^ Xochimilco
The canals and floating
gardens were created by the
Xochimilcas (see pp28–9).
& Museo Nacional de

Antropología
Fascinating artifacts from
different pre-Hispanic cultures
of Mexico are displayed here
(see pp8–9).
Plaza Santo Domingo * Chapultepec

The highest hill in the
central valley, it was a Toltec
settlement (see pp82–5).
) One of the oldest colonial
Plaza Santo Domingo
plazas, it is best known today for ( Tenayuca

Pre-Aztec pyramid with
the Portal de los Evangelistas, two parallel stairways leading
where public scribes still write to the temples at the top.
business and love letters for the d Map B1 • 10am–5pm Tue–Sun
• Adm for museum
city’s poor and illiterate. In the
colonial era the plaza was
surrounded by the Church and ) Acatitlán
One of the few intact
Convent of Santo Domingo, the pyramid temples in Mexico.
Palace of Inquisition, and d Map B1 • 10am–5pm Tue–Sun
• Adm for museum
Customs Tax Collectors. d Map Q2

Left Museo Nacional de Arte Right Hall, Museo Franz Mayer
Museums
! Museo Nacional de
Antropología $ Museo Franz Mayer
This museum houses an
The largest museum in Latin incredible collection of decorative
America presents a great display furnishings from the 16th through
of archeological discoveries. the 19th century. Gleaned from
Each of the museum’s halls around the world by Franz Mayer,
represents one of the country’s the collection contains exquisite
prominent pre-Hispanic cultures, examples of furniture and
including Aztec, Toltec, Mayan, textiles, silver, ceramics, art, and
and eight others (see pp8–9). sculpture. Highlights include a
19th-century Mexican silk shawl
and an 18th-century earthenware
bowl (see p68).
% Museo Frida Kahlo

Paintings by Frida Kahlo and
Diego Rivera are displayed in
Frida’s blue house, where she
lived and painted. Frida’s illus-
trated diary is here, as well as
Museo Nacional de Antropología some early sketches, still lifes,
and unfinished portraits. Rivera’s
@ Museo de Arte Moderno

Mexico’s important contribu-
landscape La Quebrada (1956) is
also here (see p89).
tions to 20th-century Modern Art
are displayed here. The artists
include Diego Rivera, José
Clemente Orozco, David Alfaro
Siqueiros, Juan O’Gorman,
Rufino Tamayo, and Frida Kahlo.
Don’t miss the large sculptures
in the exterior garden (see p83).
£ Museo Dolores Olmedo

Known for its collection of
Museo Frida Kahlo
145 works by Diego Rivera that

span his entire career, this stun- ^ Museo Nacional de Arte
This museum houses the
ning 17th-century hacienda is best collection of four centuries
also a house-museum with nota- of Mexican art. Featured are
ble pre-Hispanic and Mexican masterpieces by the greatest of
folk art collections. It also the Mexican artists including the
houses some of Frida Kahlo’s famous muralists, landscape, and
work (see p95). religious artists (see pp26–7).
42 Children love the interactive Papalote Museo del Niño see p85
& Museo Rufino Tamayo
A fabulous collection of ( Templo Mayor
The centerpiece of this
modern art and sculpture by museum is the huge stone disk
internationally recognized artists depicting the dismembered moon
is housed in this dramatic con- goddess Coyolxauhqui. The

crete and white marble building accidental discovery of this
set in the woods of Bosque de artifact triggered the massive
Chapultepec. The collection excavation of the ruins of the
features works by internationally Templo Mayor. Many of the
renowned artists Pablo Picasso, offerings left in the temples for
Mark Rothko, Joan Miro, the gods are on display, including
Fernando Botero, Isamu Noguchi, delicate ceramic objects, human
and many others. The museum skulls adorned with shell and flint,
also plays host to world-class and the decorated knives of flint
traveling art exhibitions several and obsidian that were used
times a year (see p83). during human sacrifices. Antiqui-
ties collected by the Aztecs from
earlier pre-Hispanic cities are also
displayed (see pp16–17).
) Museo
Historia
Nacional de
This museum has two sections –

Museo Rufino Tamayo the Alcázar and the Castillo. The
vast collections of the museum
* Museo de Arte Carrillo Gil

The permanent collection
are housed in the rooms of
Castillo de Chapultepec, the
features paintings by early 20th- former residence of Mexican
century Mexican masters, with a presidents. The fascinating
large number of oils by José collections cover four centuries
Clemente Orozco and David and are arranged chronologically.
Alfaro Siqueiros. These works The Alcázar section is an
have amazing scope, including astonishing house-museum
portraits, still lifes, and political which preserves the lavish
subjects. Diego Rivera’s cubist- lifestyle of Mexico’s leaders from
style, 1916-painting, El 1864 to 1939. The Castillo
Arquitecto, is here as well. The section offers a glimpse into the
museum is respected for its turbulent history of Mexico
exhibitions of contemporary between the Spanish conquest
work by international and under Cortés and the Mexican
Mexican artists (see p91). Revolution (see p83).
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Left Palacio de Bellas Artes Center Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso Right BMV
Architectural Highlights
! Catedral Metropolitana
This magnificent cathedral $ Palacio de Bellas Artes
Italian architect Adamo Boari
reflects the changing archi- planned this masterpiece of Art
tectural styles during its two Nouveau construction. The
centuries of construction. Work exterior is a grand representation
began in 1573, and continued of Porfiriato architecture, named
until 1813. Among other styles, after President Porfirio Díaz who
Baroque, Neo-Classical, and commissioned the building. The
Churrigueresque are most white Carrara marble building
evident (see pp12–13). has a gleaming triple dome in
bronze and an Aztec-influenced
Art Deco interior resplendent
with red marble (see pp20–21).
% Lotería Nacional
Innovative engineering and
Art Deco design elements are
highlights of this 1936 building
designed by José Antonio
Cuevas. It is the first building
Catedral Metropolitana that used elastic flotation for
earthquake protection. d 1MB[BEF
@ Antiguo
Ildefonso
Colegio de San MB3FGPSNBt.BQ.t
tXXXMPUFSJBOBDJPOBMHPCNY
This imposing colonial building,
with beautiful courtyards, dates
from 1588. It has three stories,
an impressive Baroque section
with spacious patios, and a
smaller part, completed in 1931,
with a façade inspired by 18th-
century architecture (see p68).
£ Palacio de Minería
Manuel Tolsá designed this
Lotería Nacional
important Neo-Classical building

in 1813. Highlights include the ^ Casa de los Azulejos
This 16th-century residence,
Old Chapel, Assembly Room, in Churrigueresque style, was the
Dean’s Gallery, Library, and the Blue Palace until, in the 18th cen-
magnificent staircase. d Tacuba 5 tury, the exterior was covered
t.BQ1tt5PMTÈ.VTFVN with blue tiles. It is now called the
BNoQN8FEo4VOt"ENtXXX House of Tiles. d .BEFSFPt.BQ
QBMBDJPNJOFSJBVOBNNY 1ttBNoQN
44 Across the street from the Palacio de Minería stands Manuel

Tolsá’s famous sculpture, El Caballito (The Little Horse)
& Museo Casa Barragán
This home and studio,
shimmering black and dark blue
mirrored glass. Trading takes
designed by architect Luis place under the dome, while the
Barragán in 1947, was designated offices are located in the tower.
a UNESCO world heritage site in d 1BTFPEFMB3FGPSNBt.BQ+

2004. The simple masonry tIUUQCNWDPNNY
building features an orthogonal
floorplan with walls painted in
bold colors. Light and shadow
interplay with the colors and
angles, creating dramatic
patterns. d (FOFSBM'SBODJTDP3BNÓSF[
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t"ENtIUUQDBTBMVJTCBSSBHBOPSH
* Universidad Nacional
Autónoma de Mexico
(UNAM)
In the late 1940s, 60 architects
were enlisted to design 20
buildings and sports complexes
for the new university to the Torre Mayor with the Diana Fountain in front
south of Mexico City. The
highlight is the Central Library
designed by Juan O’Gorman. ) Torre Mayor
Mexico City’s tallest building
d $JVEBE6OJWFSTJUBSJBt.BQ#t towers 740 ft (225 m) on the
tBNoQNEBJMZt'SFFt$MPTFE Paseo de la Reforma. The
QVCMJDIPMJEBZTtIUUQVOBNNY gracefully curved front façade is
made with 323,000 sq ft (30,000
( Bolsa
(BMV)
Mexicana de Valores sq m) of glass, and supported by
a traditional granite skyscraper.
To an unfinished structure plan- The design of this 55-story
ned as a hotel, the architect Juan contemporary office building
José Díaz added height, giving it uses anti-seismic technology in
an angled appearance. The dra- order to help it withstand an
matic wedge-shaped tower and earthquake of up to 8.5 on the
spherical dome of the Mexican Richter scale. d 1BTFPEFMB3FGPSNB
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45
Left Lago Mayor, Bosque de Chapultepec Right Parque Alameda Central
Parks, Gardens, and Courtyards

! Bosque de Chapultepec
This huge and diverse urban % Jardín de la Tercera Edad
and Jardín Botánico
park offers a fantastic selection Set aside for senior citizens,
of activities and makes a perfect Jardín de la Tercera Edad is the
escape from the hustle and oldest botanical garden within
bustle of the city. Most of the Bosque de Chapultepec. There is
major museums and the zoo are a walking path lined with 36
located in the first section. Two sculptures, an orchid pavilion,
other sections offer more green and a greenhouse. There is also
space, fewer visitors, and are a public garden, Jardín Botánico,
ideal for walking, cycling, and with a lush tropical conser-
boating (see pp22–3). vatory. d Paseo de la Reforma
and Calzada Chivatito
@ Parque Alameda Central

Landscaped with poplar,
t.BQ% %
ash, willow, and jacaranda

trees, this lovely green park ^
Jardín de la
Bombilla
is a shady oasis adorned This peaceful San Ángel
with fountains, sculp- park has walking
tures, and paved paths and benches
walkways that attract beneath shade trees.
both locals and tourists Obregón Memorial, Jardín de In the center of the
(see p68). la Bombilla park there is a huge
monument in memory
£ Parque México
This park is a great place for
of Álvaro Obregón, hero of the
Mexican Revolution, who became
joggers and walkers who want to President in 1920. d Av Insurgentes
avoid the crowds. Built on the 4VSBOE"SFOBMt.BQ5
site of a former horse racetrack,
the large park has attractive
landscaping and shady paths.
d Av México and Av Sonora, Col
$POEFTBt.BQ)
$ Parque Ecológico de
Xochimilco
This less-commercialized zone of
Xochimilco provides a view of
the ancient system of water
canals and man-made islands
developed by the Aztecs. Flower
gardens and a bird preserve are
added attractions (see p28–9). Parque México
46 Hire a boat or bicycle to explore the canals and walking paths of

the Parque Ecológico de Xochimilco
& Jardín del Centenario
The atrium of the former con-
Top 10 Courtyards
and Small Gardens
vent of the church of San Juan
Bautista is today a lovely town
park in Coyoacán. In the center
! Plaza de la Santa
Veracruz

A quiet, pleasant spot to sit
of the park stands the Fountain and listen to the fountain.
of Coyoacán with sculptures of d "W)JEBMHPt.BQ/
two coyotes. d Centenario and Felipe
$BSJMMP1VFSUPt.BQ8
@ Museo Franz Mayer
Courtyard
Surrounded by two-story
porticoes it has a central, tiled
stone fountain (see p68).
£ Jardín Botánico in
Palacio Nacional
This large inner courtyard has
large, beautiful gardens
TFFQQo

$ Sculpture Garden
A garden plaza with ten
huge bronze sculptures.
Archway, Jardín del Centenario
d Av Francisco I. Madero
* Viveros de Coyoacán
Once the private nurseries of % Jardín de la
Solidaridad
Commemorates the people
environmentalist Miguel Ángel de
who lost their lives in the
Quevedo, today it raises seedling devastating 1985 earthquake.
trees for the entire city. Joggers d ;BSDPZ)JEBMHP
and walkers enjoy the mile-long
dirt path that curves through the
park. It is also popular with bird-
^ Gardens of Palacio de
Bellas Artes
These flower gardens are ideal
watchers. d .BQ7tBNoQNEBJMZ to enjoy the surrounding
beauty (see pp20–21).
( Parque Hundido
A favorite with walkers and
& Courtyard
Angel Inn
of San
joggers, the park was formerly a
Inner courtyard of the former
clay-quarry. More than 50 rep- monastery (see p93).
licas of pre-Columbian sculpture
were placed along the pathways
in the 1970s. d Av Insurgentes Sur * Courtyard
Museo SCHP
of the
BOE"W1PSmSJP%ÓB[t.BQ# An inner courtyard with

ancient trees and stone
fountains (see p69).
) Jardín Botánico
This botanical garden,
( Parque Lincoln
located next to the University This park has a botanical
(UNAM) Stadium, features garden, ponds, and an art
gallery. d Emilio Castelar and
Mexican flora and ornamental Luis G. Urbina
plants. The garden is organized
by climate zones. The specialty
gardens for medicinal and native ) Monastery Gardens
at Parque Nacional
plants are highlights here. There Desierto de los Leones
The gardens are ideal to listen
is also a greenhouse in the to birdsong (see p96).
garden TFFQ
.

Left Altar, Templo de la Enseñanza Right Catedral Metropolitana
Churches
! Antigua Basílica de
Guadalupe
columns and a marble
carving of Santo
This basilica honors the Domingo de Guzmán
Virgin of Guadalupe, above the entrance. The
Mexico’s patron saint. In main altar was created
1531 the Virgin appeared by Manuel Tolsá. A side
to a native, Juan Diego, chapel contains colorful
requesting a church be scarves left by those
built there. Diego who have experienced a
convinced the local priest personal miracle.
by showing him a cape Antigua Basílica de d República de Brasil and
bearing the image of the Guadalupe Belisario Domínguez • Map Q1
Virgin. Antigua Basílica de
Guadalupe was built in 1709. The
cape is displayed in the new basil- $
Templo de la Enseñanza
Nine fabulous ultra-Baroque
ica, built in 1976 (see pp30–31). altarpieces fill the interior of this
small church built in the 1770s.
@ Catedral Metropolitana
The largest colonial cathedral
Angels surround the Virgin of El
Pilar in the exceptional fresco
in the Americas dominates the adorning the high-domed ceiling
Zócalo in the center of Mexico above the golden main altar
City. The Spanish Baroque featuring statues of saints. The
façade, with 18 bells in its twin elaborate late-Baroque façade is
bell towers, only hints at the unusually narrow and tilts
splendor inside (see pp12–13). backward from uneven settling.
d Donceles 104 • Map Q2 • 7:30–8pm
Mon–Sat, 10am–2pm Sun
% Iglesia y Ex-Convento de
San Francisco
One of the best Churrigueresque
façades in the city adorns the
remnants of the High Convent of
Our Holy Father St. Francis of
Mexico. Once the largest monas-
tery in the city, it was largely
Templo de Santo Domingo destroyed after the Reform Laws
were passed in the late 1850s
£ Templo de Santo Domingo

The first Dominican church in
(see p39). Today the lovely main
church has a Neo-Classical altar,
the city was built here in 1530. stained-glass windows, and fine
The current Baroque church was wood sculptures by Miguel Ángel
built in 1736 with ornately carved Soto. d Madero 7 • Map P3
48
^ Iglesia de la Profesa
(San Felipe Neri) * Parroquia de San
Bernardino de Siena
The Mudéjar roof above the choir Dedicated to Saint Bernardine of
stalls is the only visible remains Siena, who is believed to have
of the original 1610 Jesuit interceded with God on behalf of

church. The church was rebuilt in the indigenous Mexican people,
1720 and is one of the finest this Xochimilco church is best
examples of Mexican Baroque known for its exceptional 16th-
architecture. The Neo-Classical century altarpiece (see p97).
altarpiece was created by
Manuel Tolsá. d Madero and Isabel la
Católica • Map P2 ( Ex-Convento
Carmen
e Iglesia del
This Carmelite church from the

early 1600s was part of the del
Carmen Convent. Three exterior
domes decorated with colorful
tiles dominate the roofline. Built
in Latin Cross form, the interior
walls of this narrow church are
partially tiled with frescos. The
colonial-era main altar is the
Iglesia de la Profesa interior’s highlight (see p90).
& Templo de Regina Coeli

This masterpiece of ) Iglesia
Javier
de San Francisco
Churrigueresque style dates This exceptional Mexican

from the 17th century. Three of Baroque church was constructed
the five altars display paintings in the late 1600s. The limestone
by famous 18th-century artists, façade and single-bell tower are
including Villalpando and decorated with ornately detailed
Rodríguez Juárez. The elegant stone carvings. Inside, the
main altar is dedicated to Regina golden main altar is resplendent
Coeli (Queen of Heaven) and has with fine decorations. Murals by
a fine painting of the Virgin in the Miguel Cabrera adorn the cross
center. d Regina and Bolívar • Map P4 vaults and the chancel (see p62).

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NJMFT LN ZBSET NFUFST
Iglesia de la Profesa was consecrated as San Felipe Neri after the 49

Jesuits’ expulsion in 1767, but the former name remains in use
Tiled frescoes by Juan O’Gorman, Central Library, Universidad Nacional Autónoma de Mexico
Murals
! Antiguo
Ildefonso
Colegio de San
$ Casa de los Azulejos
One of José Clemente
In 1922, to heal political wounds Orozco’s best known murals, the
through art, young artists such 1925 Omniciencia, adorns the
as Rivera, Siqueiros, and Orozco, staircase of this building, now a
were hired to paint murals on Sanborns restaurant. One of his
the walls of the school. However, earlier works, it is painted in
some citizens did not agree with subdued tones of gold and
their leftist ideals (see p68). brown (see p44).
% Secretaría
Pública
de Educación
Diego Rivera painted more than

100 murals on three floors of this
building between 1923 and 1928.
It is the best place in the city to
view his murals. See Day of the
Mexican muralist David Alfaro Siqueiros Dead in the second patio on the
in his studio first floor and his self-portrait in
the stairwell leading to the
@ Polyforum Siqueiros
David Alfaro Siqueiros’ huge
fourth floor. d República de Argentina
t.BQ2ttBNoQN
murals cover the exterior and .POo'SJt'SFF
interior walls of this ultra-modern
12-sided cultural center. In the
main hall on the fourth floor is ^ Universidad Nacional
Autónoma de México
his masterpiece, the monumen- Excellent murals by highly res-
tal, multi-dimensional La Marcha pected muralists decorate the
de la Humanidad or The March exteriors of several buildings. On
of Humanity (see p98). the Rectory Tower is Davíd Alfaro
Siqueiros’ Alegoría de la Cultura.
£ Castillo de Chapultepec
On the first floor is the
The tiled frescos on four façades
of the Central Library building by
Museo Nacional de Historia Juan O’Gorman depict 400 years
which showcases excellent mur- of Mexican history. Francisco
als featuring aspects of Mexican Eppens Helguera’s mural on the
history by famous muralists. façade of the Medicine building
Juan O’Gorman’s Retablo de la portrays pre-Hispanic themes. On
Independencia, José Clemente the Olympic Stadium is a high
Orozco’s mural of Benito Juárez, relief mural about family, peace,
and David Alfaro Siqueiros’ satiric and sports by Diego Rivera.
image of Porfirio Díaz are a few d $JVEBE6OJWFSTJUBSJBt.BQ#t
of the best ones (see p43). tBNoQNEBJMZt'SFF
50
& Palacio Nacional
Covering 4,800 sq ft (450 sq
Top 10 Mural Artists
m) three murals, titled Epic of ! Diego
1957)
Rivera (1886–
the Mexican People, are among Brilliant muralist and painter,
Diego Rivera’s finest and most he had Marxist ideals and was

visited. This monumental work, a controversial revolutionary.
spanning the walls of the central
staircase of the palacio, portrays @ José Clemente Orozco
(1883–1949)
the history of Mexico. Additional Best known for his bold
murals fill the walls of the third murals portraying themes of
floor hallway (see pp14–15). human versus mechanical.
£ Juan O’Gorman
(1905–82)
Known for his murals and
architecture depicting subjects
from Mexican history.
$ David Alfaro Siqueiros

(1896–1974)
A political activist, he infused
his colorful murals with revo-
Interiors of the magnificent Palacio de lutionary ideas.
Bellas Artes
% Rufino
1991)
Tamayo (1899–
* Surrounding the interior

Palacio de Bellas Artes Fused Fauvism, Cubism, folk,
and pre-Hispanic Mexican
courtyard of the palacio are styles into his murals and oils.
works of seven muralists. David
Alfaro Siqueiros’ Nueva ^ Roberto Montenegro
(1887–1968)
Democracia, Diego Rivera’s El One of the first muralists, his
Hombre Contralor del Universo works dwell on Mexico’s
and José Clemente Orozco’s violent past.
Mundo Contemporaneo are the
most outstanding (see pp20–21). & Manuel Rodríguez
Lozano (1896–1971)
Dedicated to establishing a
( Diego Rivera’s famous

Museo Mural Diego Rivera true Mexican artistic style, he
later protested the monopoly
Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in held by the leading muralists.
the Alameda Central was moved
here after the earthquake of * Francisco Eppens
Helguera (1913–90)
1985 destroyed the Hotel Del Painter, muralist, and sculptor,
Prado where Rivera painted the his huge outdoor murals are
mural in 1947–8. d Balderas y Colón made of colored glass tiles.
s/n • Map M2 • 5518-0183 • 10am–6pm
Tue–Sun • Adm, free Sun ( Jean
1979)
Charlot (1898–
French born, he revived and
) Museo de Arte Moderno

Excellent oil paintings of
refined the fresco technique
later used by Diego Rivera.
many of the best known mural-
ists are showcased here. Works ) González
(1908–81)
Camarena
by Rivera, Orozco, Siqueiros, He specialized in colorful
Tamayo, and Juan O’Gorman scenes indigenous to Mexico.
feature in this museum (see p83).

Left Colorful sombreros Right Bright and vibrant flowers for sale
Markets
! Mercado Jamaica
Beautiful and vibrantly color-
whimsical piñatas (papier-mâché
figures filled with treats) are
ful, this is the city’s wholesale sold. The food stalls are a big
flower market. Every imaginable attraction. On weekends there is
type of seasonal flower grown in a craft market at the Jardín del
the country can be seen here in Centenario (see p47). d Coyoacán,
dazzling abundance. Always exces- between Xicoténcatl, Abasolo, Malintzin,
sive, the profusion of blooms of and Allende • Map X1 • 10am–6pm daily
every hue reaches amazing
crescendos at major holidays and
festivals. d Av Morelos and Congreso
de la Unión • 24 hours, daily
@ Mercado de la Merced
With crowded narrow paths
between small booths offering
towering piles of brilliantly
colored and artfully displayed
merchandise of every kind, a
visit to Mexico City’s main Mercado de Coyoacán
wholesale and retail market is as
much a cultural experience as it
is a shopping one. d Rosario and % Mercado Xochitl
Lively and colorful, this
Abraham Olvera • 6am–6pm daily neighborhood market offers
meat, poultry, sausage, spices,
£ Mercado Sonora
Known as the “Witches
fruits, and flowers of exceptional
quality that are grown along the
Market”, locals come to this Xochimilco canals. d Calles Madero,
market to buy a broad variety of 16 de Septiembre, Guerrero and Morelos
herbs, herbal remedies, folk • Map B4 • Daily
medicine, and treatments.
Everything required to cast a
spell, conjure up love, restore ^ Mercado Insurgentes
This indoor market is best
health, or obtain wealth can be known for the glittering displays
found here. d South of Mercado de la of fine silver jewelry, pendants,
Merced, across Fray Servando Teresa de earrings, and bracelets that are
Mier • 6am–6pm daily artistically displayed and brightly
illuminated. There are also silver
$ Mercado de Coyoacán
This neighborhood market is
bowls, platters, tableware, and
sculptures. In some booths you
friendly and attractive. Many can watch silversmiths at work.
traditional Mexican wares, such d Liverpool and Londres near Florencia
as sombreros, brilliant rugs, and • Map J4 • 10am–5pm daily
52 Crowded markets attract pickpockets – always take a little more

care when visiting these areas
& Mercado San Juan
An artisan’s cooperative, the
Top 10 Things to Buy
indoor booths of the market fill ! Ceramics
Mexico produces a
two floors offering traditional wealth of colorful pottery and
handmade goods such as finely ceramics, the Talavera style

crafted silver jewelry, painted being the most notable.
ceramics, and woven textiles.
d Ayuntamiento and Aranda • Map N3 @ Woven Fabrics
Look for fine shawls from
• 9am–7pm Mon–Sat, 9am–4pm Sun San Luis Potosí, panchos
from Saltillo and Zacatecas,
* Mercado de Artesanías de
la Ciudadela
and charro jackets from
Zacatecas and Durango.
The largest gathering of souvenir
and handicraft vendors in the £ Cigars
Most upscale hotels and
Centro Histórico area, this semi- cigar shops sell Cuban and
open market offers a variety of Mexican cigars.
traditional items. d Balderas and E.
Dondé • Map M3 • 9am–6pm daily $ Sweets
Sweet breads are offered
in dazzling arrays. Fried
( Jardín de Arte
This weekly outdoor art
churros (doughnuts), often
dipped in hot chocolate,
make a great treat.
market in the Plaza del Carmen
has artists lining the walkways
with their works. Of high quality % Jewelry
Silver jewelry of the best
and brilliant hues, the subjects quality is readily available. A
of the paintings range from stamp of “925” indicates the
historical Mexican scenes to highest silver content.
contemporary themes. d San
Ángel, Plaza del Carmen bordered by ^ Antiques
Furniture, silver jewelry,
Frontera and Amargura • 9am–7pm Sat ceramics, paintings, and art
objects are all available in
antique shops in Zona Rosa,
Polanco, and San Ángel.
& Leather
Decorative leather
jackets, belts, boots, and
gloves are popular, as are
saddles and bridles.
Paintings on sale, Jardín de Arte * Carvings

A popular folk art, the
best woodcarvings come
from Oaxaca.
) A very popular weekly (only
Bazar de Sábado
on Saturdays) artisan and handi- ( Liquor and Wine

Tequila and mezcal are
crafts market, it also has a internationally renowned
charming courtyard and an excel- Mexican liquors.
lent restaurant. Bazar de Sábado
technically refers to the skilled ) Other Crafts
Exquisite embroidery
craftsmen in the building, work, brightly painted papier-
however, many of the outdoor mâché figures, and tin
booths have excellent wares as lanterns are also available.
well (see p90).
Ask about the artist when buying handicrafts; not everything in 53

the markets is made in Mexico
Left Roadside snacks Center Chicken tostada Right Tamales
Cuisine
! Central Mexican Cuisine
With intense colors and $ Tamales
Tamales are a staple of Mexi-
spices, Mexican cuisine blends can life and are made from corn
flavors from Aztec, Spanish, pastry rolled around a simple
African, and European heritage. filling of meat and sauce or
Corn is the cuisine’s foundation chilis. Wrapped in a corn husk for
and is ground to make flour for convenience, they are cooked by
tamales and tortillas. Other steaming. Street vendors often
staples include beans and chilis. prepare them as a morning dish
for workers, but restaurants also
@ Antojitos
A broad category of small
serve them as a main dish with a
spicy red or green sauce.
dishes served as appetizers or
snacks, a typical antojito could
be created atop small tortillas or % Tortillas, Tacos, Tostadas,
and Enchiladas
pan fried flatbreads and might The foundation of many Mexican
include layers of spiced bean dishes, tortillas are flat circles of
paste, sautéed herbs or chopped corn dough that are fried and
vegetables, cheese, and small rolled around a filling of meat,
bits of meat. It can also include sauces, spices, and vegetables.
small tacos, tostadas, or soups. Tacos are folded or rolled and
eaten by hand. With tostadas,
the filling is piled on a flat tortilla
that is fried crispy, and enchila-
das are rolled and often baked
and smothered in a green (verde)
or red (rojo) sauce.
^ Fruits and Cheeses

Central Mexico’s year round
spring-like climate is perfect for
Chicken enchiladas in mole sauce growing a wide range of fruits,
and the mercados present a
£ Mole
This sauce varies widely in
dazzling array of fresh fruits
including mangoes, papayas,
flavor and ingredients, but bananas, apples, and pineapples.
usually is made with ground Cheese, queso, is another staple
chilis, herbs and spices, of Mexican cuisine and each
tomatoes, and almost always a region produces its own unique
bit of chocolate. The result is a cheeses. Favorites include
rich and complex sauce that oaxaca, chihuahua, creamy
most often accompanies chicken, panela, and smooth, yellow
turkey, or enchiladas. manchego.
54 Chilis are a key ingredient in Mexican cooking; they are used to

add flavor, color, or texture and are not necessarily spicy
& Sopas and Pozole
Most Mexican soups, sopas,
Top 10 Drinks
have a chicken or tomato base. ! Beer
Mexico produces some of
Rich herbs and spices create the best beers in the world.
flavors that are uniquely Mexican. Favorites include Corona, Dos

Tortilla soup, albóndigas (meat- Equis, and Negra Modelo.
ball) soup, and Mexican lime
soup, are favorites. Also popular @ Tequila
Mexico’s national drink is
is pozole, a hearty and satisfying made by distilling the fermen-
stew made from pork and corn. ted juices of the blue agave.
Fiery and potent, it can sell
from $4 to $400 a bottle.
£ Pulque
This drink made from
fermented cactus juices can
be traced back to Aztec times.
$ Horchata
This traditional iced drink,
reputed to be a cure for hang-
overs, is made from almonds,
Mexican soup powdered rice, cinnamon,
cane sugar, and limes.
* Carnes y Aves
(Meat and Poultry) % Wine
Mexico produces over 40
Pork is slow-roasted in layers of varieties of wines, many of
spices and then shredded or them award-winning.
cubed into other dishes. Beef is
marinated in delicious combina- ^ Coffee
Mexican coffee is rich,
tions of wine, lime juice, and smooth, and full bodied. A
spices to create tender arrachera favorite is café con leche.
steaks. Chicken, be it braised,
grilled, broiled, or boiled is also
very popular.
& Atole
A traditional hot drink
made from corn starch, cane
sugar, cinnamon, and
( Mariscos
Fish is often grilled and
sometimes chocolate.
served whole with sauces and

sides. Shrimps are hugely
* Hot Chocolate
Traditional Mexican hot
chocolate is made from dark
popular, served on ice with tangy chocolate, cane sugar, milk or
sauces or as fiery camarones cream, cinnamon, and ground
diablo over rice. Crabs, lobster, nuts or eggs for body.
and oysters are also popular.
( Fruit Juice, Licuados
Roadside vendors offer
) In Mexico City you get the
Desserts and Sweets chilled juices, fresh-squeezed
from a variety of fresh fruits.
flakiest pastries and the lightest When the fruits are blended
puffy sweet rolls called pan with milk, honey, and yogurt,
dulce. A typical Mexican dessert you get licuados.
is the custard-like flan. Also
popular are homemade helados ) Aguas Frescas
Fruit juices blended with
(ice creams), sorbetes, and dess- chilled water or mineral water.
erts with rich Mexican chocolate.
Recommend your favorite restaurant on traveldk.com 55

Left El Rincón del Mariachi, Plaza Garibaldi Right Inside a cantina
Entertainment and Performing Arts

! Mexican Ballet
The acclaimed Ballet
cantinas. Bars and lounges are
busiest from midnight on. Many
Folklórico de México presents of the large hotels have lounges
fabulously choreographed folk with nightly entertainment.
dances accompanied by lively
music within the Art Deco
opulence of the theater at the
Palacio de Bellas Artes (see
pp20–21). Classical and modern
dance and music performances
are also held at the Teatro de la
Danza in Polanco (see sidebar).
@ Classical Music
The National Symphony
Orchestra and the National Opera A well-stocked bar
perform at the Palacio de Bellas
Artes. The Centro Cultural Ollin
Yoliztli and Sala Nezahualcóyotl % Dance Clubs
One of the most popular
host music performances. Other dance clubs is in the lounge at
musical events are held at venues Bar León. Live merengue and
throughout the city, including the salsa music are played. Trendy El
Auditorio Nacional (see sidebar) Bar Mata offers two floors of
and Estadio Azteca (see p59). dancing to the sounds of jazz,
blues, and rock. d Bar León
£ Lucha Libre
In this enjoyable spectacle,
Republica de Brasil 5, Col Centro
tQNoBN5IVo4BUt$PWFSDIBSHF
masked combatants skilfully d &M#BS.BUB'JMPNFOP.BUB $PM
combine wrestling, acrobatics, $FOUSPtQNoBN5IVo4BUt/P
and pantomime. There are two DPWFSDIBSHF
types of wrestlers – “goodies” or
técnicos and “baddies” or rudos
(see p59). d Arena Coliseo: República ^ Dinner Shows
Hotel de Cortés TFFQ
EF1FSÞt d Arena offers a Friday evening Mexican

.FYJDP%S-B7JTUBt Fiesta with Folklóric Ballet and a
NBSJBDIJ band. Mesón del Cid
$ Bars and Lounges

Cantinas start filling up in
offers a medieval show with
Spanish cuisine each Saturday.
the late afternoon, usually serve Bellini (see p99) and a few other
food, and often close by 11pm. restaurants, are part of night-life
Bar la Ópera TFFQ
in Centro tours where you dine and then
and Cantina la Coyoacana (see join a bus tour. d Mesón del Cid:
Q
in Coyoacán are popular )VNCPMEU $PM$FOUSPt
56 At night it is advisable to use only pre-arranged hotel or sitio taxi

(see p103), or bus tours; watch against pickpockets and thieves
& Mariachi Music
The traditional late afternoon
Top 10 Music and
Dance Venues
and evening place for NBSJBDIJ
music is Plaza Garibaldi in Centro ! Centro Nacional
de las Artes
Histórico where bands roam, Hosts a variety of shows.

surrounded by bronze statues of d "W3ÓP$IVSVCVTDP $PM
the legendary NBSJBDIJT. Another 5MBMQBOtFYU
place to enjoy their music is tXXXDFOBSUHPCNY
Xochilmilco TFFQQo
.
@ Auditorio Nacional
Modern auditorium with
excellent acoustics. d Paseo
EFMB3FGPSNB $PM4BO
.JHVFM$IBQVMUFQFDt
tXXXBVEJUPSJPDPNNY
£ Centro Cultural Telmex

Offers Broadway plays in
Spanish. d "W$VBVIUÏNPD
$PM+VÈSF[t
Mariachis, Plaza Garibaldi
$ Palacio de Bellas Artes
Premier performing and
* Cinema is extremely popular

Cinema cultural center (see pp20–21).
in Mexico City, and prices are

reasonable. Cinemex and
% Sala Nezahualcóyotl
Concert hall with 2,400
seats. d *OTVSHFOUFT4VS
Cinepolis are the two largest $6 6/".ttIUUQ
theater chains. d $JOFNFYXXX NVTJDBVOBNOFU
DJOFNFYDPN d $JOFQPMJTXXX
DJOFQPMJTDPNNY
^ Centro
Yoliztli
Cultural Ollin
Part of an active arts

( Gay and Lesbian
There is a large and active
complex. d 1FSJGÏSJDP4VS
$PM*TJESP'BCFMBt
gay, and to a lesser extent
lesbian, community in Mexico
City. The bars and discos change
& Teatro de la Danza
Stages a variety of dance
and musical shows. d Centro
frequently, so it is a good idea Cultural del Bosque, Col Polanco
to check the weekly 5JFNQP tFYUO
Libre (see p102) or the websites
below for current information.
d XXXTFSHBZDPNNYBOEIUUQ
* Teatro Blanquita
Hosts top Mexican artists.
d "W-È[BSP$ÈSEFOBT $PM
HBZHVJEFOFU $FOUSPt
) Family
The city’s ultimate family
( Teatro de los
Insurgentes
This fine theater presents a
place is Bosque de Chapultepec
variety of plays and musicals.
TFFQQo
. Favorites include d "W*OTVSHFOUFT4VS $PM
La Feria, Museo del Niño, and 4BO+PTÏ*OTVSHFOUFTt
Zoológico de Chapultepec. Child-
ren will enjoy the boat rides at
Xochimilco Floating Gardens (see
) Antiguo Palacio del
Arzobispado
Choral performances are held
QQo
and views of Mexico weekly. d $BMMF.POFEB $PM
City from the top of the Torre $FOUSPt
Latinoamericana (see p71).
Nightlife tours are offered by many hotels and travel agencies, 57

and often include dinner, a show, and a stop at Plaza Garibaldi
Left Jogger, Viveros de Coyoacán Right Hot-Air Balloon
Outdoor Activities and Sports

! Hiking
In the mountains, southwest $ Jogging and Walking
One of the favorite places to
of Mexico City, are several parks, walk and jog is the Bosque de
such as Parque Nacional Desierto Chapultepec TFFQQo
.
de los Leones (see p96), Parque Viveros de Coyoacán TFFQ

Nacional los Dinamos (see p96), Parque México in Condesa
and Parque Nacional Ajusco, that TFFQ
, and Parque Hundido
offer a variety of hiking trails. TFFQ
are also popular with
d Parque Nacional Ajusco: Camino Al joggers and walkers.
Ajusco from Periférico Sur
@ Mountain Biking % Bird Watching

One of the best places for
There are many mountain- bird watching is Xochimilco (see
bike trails near Mexico City. Some QQo
, both along the canals
of the most accessible are at San and in the Parque Ecologico de
Nicolás Totolapan. It offers about Xochimilco. The pine and oak
93 miles (150 km) of dirt trails at forests at Parque Nacional
altitudes between 8,900 ft Desierto de los Leones (see p96)
(2,700m) and 12,000 ft (3,740m). yields different species, including
d 1JDBDIP"KVTDP3Ett"ENt the lovely bright Red Warbler.
www.parquesannicolas.com.mx t Bikes
on rent are available only on weekends
^ Hot-Air Balloons and
Hang Gliding
A hot-air balloon for a tour over
the Valley of Mexico or the
pyramids of Teotihuacán can be
arranged. For hang gliding and
paragliding head to Valle de
Bravo TFFQ
. d Globo Aventura:
twww.globoaventura.com
d Flyvolare: twww.flyvolare.
Biking trail, Parque Nacional de los Leones com.mx d Alas del Hombre:

twww.alas.com.mx
# Rock Climbing
Parque Nacional los Dinamos
& Horseback Riding
(see p96) offers the best rock Many of the National Parks
climbing near the city with many in the Valley of Mexico offer
bolted and bolt-free climbing horseback riding on weekends
routes along the narrow gorge of and holidays. Local horse owners
the Magdalena River. Mochilazo offer their horses for rent, and
offers guided day trips and rock can be found at both Parque
climbing courses. d Mochilazo: Nacional Desierto de los Leones
twww.mochilazo.com.mx (see p96) and Parque Nacional
58 The parks have most visitors on weekends and holidays

Ajusco. In the Valle de Bravo Top 10 Spectator
TFFQ
there are outfitters
with horseback trips to see
Sports
monarch butterflies in winter. ! Bullfighting
Top matadors fight the
toughest bulls. d Plaza

Monumental de Toros México
tt4VO/PWo'FC
@ Futbol (Soccer)
Mexicans’ favorite
spectator sport. d Estadio
"[UFDB$BM[BEBEF5MBMQBO
t d Estadio
Universitario: Av Insurgentes Sur
Parque Nacional de los Leones
£ NBA Basketball
Palacio de los Deportes
* Acapulco offers a huge
Water Sports and Boating hosts exhibition games. d Av
Rio Churubusco and Calle Añil
variety of year-round ocean
sports and activities including
deep sea fishing, boating, scuba
$ Professional Baseball
The home team, Diablos
Rojos, plays at Foro Sol. d Av
diving, and water skiing. Viaducto Río de la Piedad, Col
d "DBQVMDP5PVSJTU0GmDFt
(SBOKBT.ÏYJDPt
tXXXWJTJUBDBQVMDPDPNNY tXXXEJBCMPTDPNNY
( Golf, Tennis, and % Horse Racing

Races are held at
Swimming Hipódromo de las Américas.
Most golf courses are members- d Av Industria Militar, Col Lomas
and guests-only clubs. A golf EF4PUFMPtt'SJo4VO
course that does allow visitors is tXXXIJQPESPNPDPNNY
Campestre Cocoyoc at Hotel
Hacienda Cocoyoc. Many hotels ^ Charrerías
Horsemanship events are
offer tennis courts and swimming held at Lienzo Charro. d Av
pools. d Hotel Hacienda Cocoyoc: $POTUJUVZFOUFTt
Donato Guerra 9, Tizapán, San Ángel tXXXOBDJPOBMEFDIBSSPTDPN
ttXXXDPDPZPDDPNmx
& Rowing
The Cuemanco Channel is
) Climbing the volcanoes near

Volcano Mountaineering a popular spot. d
Mexico City provides strenuous,

but non-technical adventures.
* Boxing
Boxing bouts are held at
Salón 21. d .PMJÒSF
Maps and directions for these Andromaco, Col Ampliación
treks are primitive, but there are (SBOBEBt
guides available. Popular trips
include the tough climb to the
top of Iztaccíhuatl TFFQ
.
( Lucha Libre
This entertaining “sport”
features costumed wrestlers
Less taxing would be climbs to wearing masks TFFQ

the top of La Malinche near
Puebla or Nevado de Toluca near
Valle de Bravo.
) Acapulco Cliff Divers
Acapulco’s most famous
d *UBMJBO53&,tXXX attraction in which young men
leap from a 130-ft (40-m) cliff
italiantrek.com d 3ÓPZ.POUB×B into sea below. d La Quebrada
tXXXSJPZNPOUBOBDPN
Ticketmaster sells tickets and has information for most of the 59

spectator sports at 5325-9000, www.ticketmaster.com.mx
Band performing at the Festival de México, Centro Histórico
Festivals and Events

! Día de los Reyes Magos
Three Kings’ Day, or Epiphany $ Feria de la Flor más Bella
del Ejido
on January 6, is the traditional gift Xochimilco celebrates the arrival
giving day, when families gather of spring, its floriculture, and the
to celebrate. In the days leading ancient Aztec goddess of flowers
up to it, children have their photos with a week of festivities in late
taken with the Three Kings, send March or early April. Music in the
their gift wish list aloft through streets, an abundance of colorful
balloons, and help select the flowers, and family events typify
sweet cakes, rosca de reyes, this small-town style festival. One
which are served on this day. of the highlights is a competition
for the most beautifully decorated
trajinera, or flat boat. d 5676-8879
% Festival de México
Two weeks of fabulous
concerts and special cultural
events are held in traditional
performing arts venues, historic
palacios, and in the streets,
Semana Santa procession parks, and plazas of Centro
Histórico during March or early
@ Semana Santa
The “Holy Week” from Palm
April. d http://festival.org.mx
Sunday to Easter Sunday is one of

the most important festivals in ^ Día de la Madre
Mother’s Day in Mexico is on
Mexico. It combines Catholic tradi- May 10 and is a joyful occasion.
tion with pre-Hispanic festivities. The restaurants are filled with
Over a million people gather at family celebrations. Mothers
Iztapalapa, south of downtown receive bouquets of roses as
Mexico City, for the annual Pas- presents and are serenaded by
sion Play. Good Friday is a day of mariachis (see p57).
plays and costumed processions.
£ Holy Saturday & Defense of Mexico and

Fall of Tenochtitlán
On the Saturday between Festivities commemorate the
Good Friday and Easter Sunday, valiant defense of Tenochtitlán by
holy vigils and solemn masses the Aztecs, led by Cuauhtémoc,
are held in many churches. Later, against the Spaniards. Brilliantly
participants gather outside as costumed concheros perform
huge effigies of Judas and other ritual pre-Hispanic dances on
evil forces, are burned signifying August 13 at the Plaza de las
the triumph of good over evil. Tres Culturas (see p95).
60
* Día de los Muertos
The Day of the Dead in
Top 10 Public
Holidays
Mexico is a two day celebration
to honor deceased relatives and
ancestors. Families invite the
! New Year’s Day (Jan 1)
December 31 sees parties
all night. Traditionally, colored

dead to visit by creating eggshells filled with confetti
elaborate altars decorated with are tossed into the air.
candy skulls, flowers, and the
favorite foods of the departed. It
is believed that deceased
@ Constitution
(Feb 5)
Day
A National Holiday which

children return on November 1st. commemorates the new
The next day the dead adult Constitution of 1917.
relatives and ancestors visit.
£ Natalicio de Benito
Juárez (Mar 21)
( Día de Nuestra Señora de
Guadalupe
Mexico’s national hero and
great reformer President
Throughout December pilgrims Benito Juárez’s (see p39)
from across the Americas arrive birthday is a national holiday.
at Villa de Guadalupe to honor
their patron saint and Mexico’s $ Easter Thursday and
Good Friday
beloved Our Lady of Guadalupe. Holy Thursday (March/April) is
Thousands time their arrival for a traditional day of worship at
December 12, the Feast Day of churches. Passion Plays are
the Virgin of Guadalupe, to held on Good Friday.
attend the mass and thank the
Virgin. Pilgrims often complete % Labor Day (May 1)
Parades by workers are
their journey to the Villa de held in the streets.
Guadalupe on their knees.
^ Cinco de Mayo (May 5)
Commemorates the 1862
Battle of Puebla, where the
Mexican army defeated the
invading French.
& Independence
(Sep 16)
Day
On the evening before, the

President issues the cry of
independence and rings the
Feast Day celebrations, Villa de Guadalupe Freedom Bell at the Zócalo. A
parade through Centro is held
on this day.
) Las Posadas
Christmas processions and
plays re-enacting the story of * Día de la Raza (Oct 12)
Celebrates Colombus’
Mary and Joseph seeking lodging discovery of the New World.
and the nativity scene are nightly
events throughout the city in the ( Revolution
(Nov 20)
Day
days leading up to Christmas, Marks the anniversary of the
December 16–24. Candle- and 1910 Revolution (see p39).
lantern-lit processions fill the
streets heading to churches for
mass. The Zócalo is decorated
) Christmas (Dec 25)
Midnight masses are
followed by festivities on
with lights and major performance Christmas.
venues hold special events.

Left Pyramid of the Sun, Teotihuacán Center Taxco Right La Parroquia, San Miguel de Allende
Excursions
! Teotihuacán
Once the greatest city in
Pyramid of Tlahuizcalpantecuhtli
(Pyramid of the Morning Star).
Mesoamerica, the ancient ruins Four towering Atlanteans, the
form one of the world’s biggest famous monumental carved
and most impressive archeo- stone warriors, crown the
logical zones. Visitors can climb pyramid. Other ruins include the
the third largest pyramid in the Wall of Serpents, ball courts, and
world, stroll through ancient the columns of the Burnt Palace.
palaces, and see fabulous d 53 miles (85 km) N of Mexico City
ancient murals (see pp32–3). • (773) 732-1183 • Bus tour • 10am–6pm
Tue–Sun • Adm • www.inah.gob.mx
$ Taxco
This picturesque colonial
mountain town with steep,
narrow cobblestone streets is
most famous for its talented
silversmiths, historic buildings,
and the fabulous Baroque church
Iglesia de Santa Prisca. The
Iglesia de San Francisco Javier, Tepotzotlán Spaniards first mined a wealth of
silver here and Taxco was estab-
@ Tepotzotlán
The highlight of this mountain
lished as the center for silver-
smiths in the 1930s. Today, silver
town with its pretty plaza and shops surround the town’s main
cobblestone streets is the plaza. d 106 miles (170 km) SW
magnificent Iglesia de San of Mexico City • (762) 622-0798
Francisco Javier. Next to the
church is the Jesuit college
which houses the Museo % Cuernavaca
Year-round spring-like
Nacional del Virreinato weather and a convenient
displaying colonial and location close to Mexico
religious art. d 27 miles (44 km) City has attracted the
N of Mexico City • 5876-0245 wealthy and powerful to
• Bus tour and taxi • 9am–5:45pm the lovely colonial town of
Tue–Sun • Adm, free Sun Cuernavaca for centuries.
Cortés built his fortress-like
£ Tula
Tula, the capital of the
residence, Palacio de
Cortés, here in 1522. The
Toltec nation, rose to power town center features a
in the 10th century, after the cathedral built in the 1520s
fall of Teotihuacán. The most Atlante de Tula and nearby there are two
important ruin here is the lovely plazas. Palacio de
62
Cortés and Jardín Borda were
used by Emperor Maximilian I * Parque Nacional
Iztaccíhuatl-Popocatépetl
and his wife Carlota as a retreat. The second and third highest
Both are open to the public from peaks in Mexico are in a pine-
Tuesday to Sunday. d NJMFT forested wilderness area with

LN
4PG.FYJDP$JUZt
excellent hiking and mountain
tXXXNPSFMPTUSBWFMDPN biking trails. Paseo de Cortés
is another popular place for hiking
^ Puebla
Puebla is famous for its
and mountain biking with
excellent views of the volcanoes.
beautiful colonial buildings deco- d NJMFT LN
4&PG.FYJDP$JUZt
rated with hand-painted Talavera
tBNoQNEBJMZt"EN
tiles. Founded in 1531, the city is
nestled between the mountains
Popocatépetl, La Malinche, and ( San Miguel de Allende
This charming mountain
Iztaccíhuatl. It is also known for town is a Mexican National
its colonial churches, fine muse- Historic Monument with a lovely
ums, and numerous boutiques city center, a shady plaza sur-
offering exquisite Mexican rounded by shops and cafés, and
handicrafts and pottery. d 81 miles a brilliant Neo-Gothic church, La
LN
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Parroquia. d NJMFT LN
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tXXXQVFCMBHPCNY .FYJDP$JUZt
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) Acapulco
With sandy beaches and the
warm Pacific Ocean, Acapulco is
the perfect place to unwind. The
4-mile (7-km) wide bay offers a
selection of beaches for relaxing,
family fun, or partying. d 190 miles
LN
48PG.FYJDP$JUZt

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Valle de Bravo is popular with power boaters, sailors, hikers, 63

mountain bikers, hang gliders, and parasailers
AROUND
TOWN
Centro Histórico
66–73

Paseo de la Reforma
and Zona Rosa
74–79
Chapultepec
and Polanco
82–87
Coyoacán and
San Ángel
88–93
Greater Mexico City
94–99
Around Town – Centro Histórico
Left Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso Center Museo Nacional de Arte Right Palacio de Bellas Artes
Centro Histórico
T HIS HISTORIC CENTER OF MEXICO CITY, one of the largest cities in the
world, has been a vibrant hub of culture, religion, and politics since the
days of the Aztecs. An organized grid of streets extends from the Zócalo, the
city’s political and social gathering place, leading to incredible churches and
palaces, some of which have been turned into fine museums. Other colonial
buildings now house boutique hotels, shops, and restaurants. Although it is a
busy, noisy, and thriving part of a modern metropolis, you can still find
tranquil plazas and quiet old courtyards away from the hustle and bustle.
Sights
1 Zócalo
2 Palacio Nacional
3 Templo Mayor
4 Catedral Metropolitana
5 Palacio de Bellas Artes
6 Parque Alameda
Central
7 Museo Franz Mayer
8 Antiguo Colegio de
San Ildefonso
9 Museo Nacional de
Arte
0 Museo SHCP in the
Palacio del
Arzobispado
Catedral Metropolitana, Palacio Nacional, and Zócalo

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66 Preceding pages The colorful domes of Museo del Carmen in

San Ángel
! Zócalo
Plaza de la Constitución, also £ Templo Mayor
This was once the largest
known as Zócalo, was one of the and most important temple in
city’s main market areas from the ceremonial complex at the
the days of Tenochtitlán. In the heart of the Aztec empire, until

1860s, Emperor Maximilian I the Spanish destroyed it after
banned merchants and created a their conquest and used the
Parisian park, with tree-lined rubble for their own construction.
walkways and benches. Follow- In 1978, city workers digging
ing the Mexican Revolution the near the Catedral Metropolitana
plaza was cleared of all the discovered a carved stone disk,
trees, grass, and ornamentation. over 10 ft (3 m) in diameter, that
The plaza is today the gathering enabled archeologists to deter-
place for social and political mine the location of the temple.
causes. d Monte de Piedad • Map Q3 A major archeological project
ensued covering several city
blocks. Today, visitors can follow
a winding walkway through the
excavated ruins and visit the
excellent museum which dis-
plays many of the artifacts
recovered here (see pp16–17).
$ Catedral Metropolitana
The largest cathedral in the
Western Hemisphere, it took 240
years to complete. This is
reflected in the dazzling array of
Baroque and Neo-Classical
styles. Built on soft, marshy soil
Military ceremony at the Zócalo the cathedral was sinking until
engineers used a variety of
@ Palacio Nacional
This huge government
techniques to stabilize it. The
cathedral still has a visible tilt,
edifice extends along the length but a huge pendulum hung from
of the Zócalo. Cortés built his the dome marks the slow move-
palace on the site of the Aztec ment towards the perpendicular.
Emperor Moctezuma II’s castle An exceptional collection of
in 1563. The current palace was paintings, religious furnishings,
constructed in 1693 following and glittering altars adorn the
fires in 1659 and 1692 which interior (see pp12–13).
destroyed much of the earlier
building. Emperor Maximilian I
modified the architecture intro-
ducing European flair. President
Calles added the third floor in
1926. Today, most visitors come
to view the brilliant murals of
Diego Rivera, especially his Epic
of the Mexican People, which
surrounds the central staircase
(see pp14–15). Altar Mayor, Catedral Metropolitana
A huge Mexican national flag is raised and lowered every day 67

from a towering pole in the Zócalo with much military ceremony
Organ Grinders
As you walk along a bustling
street in Centro you will notice a
sound that rises above the
various noises of the city. It is the
music played by organ grinders

hand-cranking old German-made
organs. Dressed in beige
uniforms they work in teams of
two, one turning the crank to
produce the music, as the other
collects their day’s earnings.
Museo Franz Mayer
% Palacio de Bellas Artes

Built between 1905 and
& Museo Franz Mayer
1934, this stunning performing Fabulous decorative arts
arts venue presents a fascinating from the 16th through 19th
blend of architectural styles. The century are displayed in this
dazzling Beaux Arts white Italian former hospital building built in
marble exterior features ornate the 18th century. The features of
domes, columns, and European the old building, the archways,
sculptures and carvings. The carved wood doors, and frescos,
interior is a superb Art Deco have been incorporated into the
extravaganza, with red marble design of the display areas which
columns, black marble floors, tastefully augment the collection
classic light fixtures, and brass of beautiful everyday decorative
details. Four stories of Art Deco objects from Mexico, Europe,
columns, balconies, and grillwork and Asia. d "W)JEBMHPt.BQ/
house a spectacular theater, ttBNoQN5VFo4VOt"EN
famous murals, fine gift and tXXXGSBO[NBZFSPSHNY
book shops, and traveling art
exhibitions TFFQQo
.
* Antiguo
Ildefonso
Colegio de San
^ Parque Alameda Central

The oldest park in the city
Built as a small Jesuit college in
1588, today the building is perhaps
was established on the site of an best known as the birthplace of
Aztec market by the order of the modern muralist movement.
Viceroy Don Luis de Diego Rivera painted
Velasco in 1590. It was his first mural, The
named after the poplar Creation, here in 1922–3.
trees planted there. With The walls inside have
shade-giving trees and works of early muralists
walking paths, the park including David Alfaro
provides some tranquil Siqueiros, José Clem-
respite from the bustle of ente Orozco, and
the city. Fountains and Fernando Leal. d Justo
statues adorn the park, 4JFSSBt.BQ2t
including a bronze figure tBNoQN5VF
of Neptune, God of the BNoQN8FEo4VOt
Sea. d Av Júarez, Angela "ENDIBSHFTGPS.VSBMTPOMZ
Peralta, Av Hidalgo and Dr Antiguo Colegio de San (FOFSBM BOE&YQPTJUJPOBOE
.PSBt.BQ/ Ildefonso .VSBMTUPVST GSFF5VF
68 The outstanding Ballet Folklórico performs at the Palacio de

Bellas Artes on Wednesdays and Sundays
( Museo Nacional de Arte
This stunning collection has
An Alameda Central
Stroll
over 3,000 works by great artists
including Miguel Cabrera, José Morning
María Velasco, and Diego Rivera. Have breakfast in the

Arranged chronologically, the lovely courtyard of the
exhibits focus on the art of New Casa de los Azulejos (see
Q
, now a Sanborns
Spain, National Mexican Art, and Restaurant TFFQ
,
the new modern art that evolved admiring the fountain, the
during and after the Revolution. intricate tile work, and the
The Neo-Classical building is exquisite mural by Orozco.
fabulous, with a double stair- Across the street is the
late Baroque Iglesia y
case, ornamental ironwork, and Ex-Convento de San
beautiful ceiling paintings by Francisco TFFQ
and
Mariano Coppedé (1839–1920). next door is the towering
d 5BDVCBt.BQ1t Torre Latinoamericana
tBNoQN5VFo4VOt"EN GSFF TFFQ
. Take the
elevator to the 44th floor
4VOtXXXNVOBMDPNNY
for an exceptional view of
the city. Next visit the
grand Palacio de Bellas
Artes TFFQQo
to
explore the fabulous
Beaux Arts building with
its Art Deco interior. Catch
the brilliant murals by
Detailed carvings, Museo Nacional de Arte Rivera, Siqueiros, Orozco,
and Tamayo in the second
and third floor porticoes.
) Museo SHCP in the
Palacio del Arzobispado Lunch at the dining room
of the QBMBDJP.
This intriguing museum displays
art accepted by the Finance Afternoon
Secretariat in lieu of tax pay- Walk through lovely
ments. Both famous and little Parque Alameda Central
known artists are on display. TFFQ
, to the west of
Juan Correa’s /BDJNJFOUPEFMB the Palacio de Bellas
Artes, and enjoy the park’s
Virgen, Miguel Cabrera’s Don fountains. Next proceed
Juan Antonio, and Diego Rivera’s across Av Hidalgo to the
painting of his San Ángel studio Museo Franz Mayer
are showcased here. Recent tax which houses a great
years’ collections are kept in a collection of decorative
arts. Then head east on Av
separate gallery. d .POFEBt.BQ Hidalgo, across Tacuba into
2ttBNoQN5VFo4VO the Palacio Postal (see
t"ENtXXXNVTFPTEFNFYJDPPSH Q
. The Post Office is
famous for its stunning
staircase and architecture.
Then cross Tacuba and
walk on to Plaza Manuel
Tolsá to the famous statue
El Caballito or The Little
Horse TFFQ
by Manuel
Tolsá (1757–1816). Spend
the rest of the afternoon
at Museo Nacional de
Arte TFFQQo
.
Museo SHCP in the Palacio del Arzobispado

Left Museo Interactivo de Economía Center Museo del Ejército Right Museo de Arte Popular
Small Museums
! Museo del Ejército
The exhibits of the museum
along with works of other artists.
d "DBEFNJBt.BQ3t
relate the history of the Mexican tBNoQN5VFo4VOt"EN GSFF4VO
flag and display military arma- tXXXNVTFPKPTFMVJTDVFWBTDPNNY
ments and the armor of the
Spanish conquistadors. d Filomeno
.BUBt.BQ1ttBNo & Casa de la Primera
Imprenta
QN5VFo4BU BNoQN4VOt'SFF This building housed the first
printing press in the Americas. A
@ Museo Interactivo de
Economía
science museum today, it has a
model of the press TFFQ
.
Interactive and easy-to-understand
exhibits about economics are this
museum’s attraction. d 5BDVCB * Secretaría
Pública
de Educación
t.BQ1ttBNoQN5VFo Diego Rivera painted over 100

4VOt"ENtXXXNJEFPSHNY murals that cover the walls of
this building TFFQ
.
£ Museo de Arte Popular

Folk art from across Mexico
( Museo de la Caricatura
is showcased in this exceptional A fascinating collection of
museum in a lovely Art Deco Mexican cartoons are displayed in
building. d 3FWJMMBHJHFEPt.BQ/ this museum. d %PODFMFT $PM
ttBNoQN5VFo4VO UP $FOUSPt.BQ2ttBNo
QN5IVt'SFFtXXXNBQEGHPCNY QN.POo'SJ BNoQN4BUo4VOt"EN
$ Museo Mural Diego Rivera

This museum houses Diego ) Museo de la Ciudad de
México y Estudio de
Rivera’s famous mural, %SFBNPG Joaquín Clausell
B4VOEBZ"GUFSOPPOJOUIF This is a museum about Mexico
"MBNFEB$FOUSBM TFFQ
. City with maps, paintings, and
early photographs. Upstairs is the
% Museo de la Charrería
The Mexican culture and
former studio of Mexican painter
Joaquín Clausell. d 1JOP4VÈSF[
traditions of the DIBSSFSÓB, or t.BQ2ttBNoQN
horsemen, are presented in this 5VFo4VOt"EN GSFF8FE
museum. d *TBCFMMB$BUØMJDB
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Luis Cuevas is displayed here,
70
Left Hemiciclo a Juárez Right Plaza de Santo Domingo
Best of the Rest

! Iglesia de la Profesa
An early Baroque façade, a
skyscraper for an astounding
view of the city. d &KF$FOUSBM
Mexican Baroque interior, and a t.BQ1ttBNoQNEBJMZ
Neo-Classical altarpiece by t"ENtXXXUPSSFMBUJOPDPN
Manuel Tolsá are highlights of
this church TFFQ
.
& Templo de la Enseñanza
This narrow church with its
@ Casa de los Azulejos

This 18th-century aristocratic
intricately carved late-Baroque
façade has nine grandiose ultra-
residence with an inner court- Baroque altarpieces TFFQ
.
yard and exquisitely decorated
rooms is sheathed in lovely
decorative blue tiles TFFQ
. * Plaza de Santo Domingo
This plaza, important in the
colonial era, is surrounded by
£ This striking monument was

Hemiciclo a Juárez austere colonial buildings and
the lovely Templo de Santo
built in honor of President Benito Domingo on the north TFFQ
.
Juárez in 1910. Guillermo de
Heredia designed the open semi-
circle. Italian sculptor Lazzaroni ( Laboratorio Arte Alameda
This museum, located in the
created the statue and the sup- former convent of San Diego,
porting sculptures. d /FYUUP1BSRVF presents contemporary art
"MBNFEB$FOUSBMPO"W+VÈSF[t.BQ/ through temporary exhibits,
screenings, and events. d %S.PSB
$ Plaza Ciudadela and

Mercado de Artesanías de
$PM$FOUSPt.BQ/tt
BNoQN5VFo4VOt"EN GSFF4VOt
la Ciudadela XXXBSUFBMBNFEBCFMMBTBSUFTHPCNY
The largest handicrafts and
souvenir market in the down-
town area, it offers a dazzling ) Palacio Postal
Completed in 1907, this stun-
array of textiles, crafts, and ning QBMBDJP, the main post office,
artwork TFFQ
. has an amazing central staircase
and an ornate interior. d 5BDVCBBOE
% Mercado San Juan

Artisans gather in this indoor
&KF$FOUSBM-È[BSP$ÈSEFOBTt.BQ1
tBNoQN.POo'SJ BNoQN4BU
market, offering traditional and
$
50
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floor of this slender glass
71
Left Librería Gandhi Center Mexican wall-hanging Right Arte Mexicano Para el Mundo
Shopping
! Arte
Mundo
Mexicano para el rary jewelry. d Calle Monte de Piedad
$PM$FOUSPt.BQ2t
Reasonably priced, quality Mexi- tBNoQN.POo'SJ BNoQN4BU
can handicrafts are displayed in tEOTNPOUFQJFEBEDPNNY
this pretty colonial building.
d Monte de Piedad 11, Col Centro
t.BQ2ttXXXBSUF & LaThisEuropea
chain of liquor stores
NFYJDBOPDPNNY has one of the best selections of
tequilas and wine in the city.
@ Librería Gandhi
This bookstore offers titles
d "ZVOUBNJFOUP $PM$FOUSPt.BQ1
ttXXXMBFVSPQFBDPNNY
in Spanish, and some in English.
They also have a good selection
of music CDs. d Av Juárez 4, Col * Pastelería Ideal
This bakery is famous for its
$FOUSPt.BQ/ttXXX wedding and birthday cakes,
HBOEIJDPNNY which are often complex and
colorful works of art. d "WEF
£ Dulcería de Celaya
Since 1874 this charming
4FQUJFNCSF $PM$FOUSPt.BQ1t
tXXXQBTUFMFSJBJEFBMDPNNY
candy store has specialized in
traditional Mexican sweets such
as crystallized fruits and candied ( Perfumes
Fraiche
y Esencias
nuts. d EF.BZP $PM$FOUSP Perfumes and essences are made-

t.BQ1t to-order, with perfumers hand-
blending the scents. dEF
$ Palacio
Shops
de Bellas Artes 4FQUJFNCSF $PM$FOUSPt.BQ1t
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The first floor lobby offers three
shops, an excellent bookstore, a
music shop, and a small gift ) Catedral Vendors
In front of the Catedral
shop TFFQQo
. Metropolitana, vendors offer
religious relics, prayer cards, and
% Museo de Arte Popular

The large shop located in the
rosaries. Near Templo Mayor,
vendors present Mexican crafts
lobby of the Museo de Arte TFFQQo
.
Popular offers bright and colorful
$
50
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glittering antique and contempo-
72
Price Categories
For a three course $ under 150 pesos
meal for one with half $$ 150–250 pesos
a bottle of wine (or $$$ 250–350 pesos
equivalent meal), taxes, $$$$ 350–450 pesos
and extra charges. $$$$$ over 450 pesos

Above Bar la Ópera
Places to Eat
! LaDineCasa de las Sirenas
on modern Mexican ^ Casino Español
Traditional Spanish cuisine
cuisine, such as DJMBOUSPTPVQ where favorites like QBFMMB and
and NPMFQPCMBOP. Downstairs, baked goat are served. d *TBCFMMB
there is a cantina and tequila bar. $BUØMJDBt.BQ1ttQNo
d (VBUFNBMBt.BQ2t QNEBJMZtXXXDBTJOPFTQBOPMDPNNY
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@ This restaurant offers

Los Girasoles & Puro Corazón
Trendy nouvelle Mexican
cuisine such as NPMFQPCMBOP and
traditional Mexican cuisine inclu- arrachera beef are served here.
ding pre-Hispanic dishes. 4BMTBT, d .POUFEF1JFEBEt.BQ2t
tortilla soup, tamarind mole, and tXXXBSUFNFYJDBOPDPNNYt
duckling in blackberry sauce are
popular. d 5BDVCBBOE 1MB[B.BO
VFM5PMTÈt.BQ1ttXXX * Hostería
Domingo
de Santo
SFTUBVSBOUFMPTHJSBTPMFTDPNt The place serves classic Mexican

cuisine such as chiles en nogada
£ Bar la Ópera
This historic cantina offers a
and NPMFQPCMBOP. d #FMJTBSJP%PN
ÓOHVF[t.BQ2ttXXX
great Mexican menu, along with IPTUFSJBEFTBOUPEPNJOHPDPNNYt
opulent red booths, polished
woodwork, a gleaming long bar,
and a bullet hole in the ceiling, ( Taco Inn
This restaurant serves a
courtesy of Pancho Villa. d Cinco selection of tacos with lots of
EF.BZPt.BQ1tt filling choices as well as many
traditional favorites. d5BDVCBBOE
$ Sanborns
Azulejos
in Casa de los 1MB[B.BOVFM5PMTÈt.BQ1t
Always busy, this favorite meet-

ing spot offers traditional Mexi- ) Sushi Roll
Japanese cuisine is served
can comfort food, as well as with a nice selection of sashimi
international favorites, in an opu- and sushi dishes. d "WEF.BZP
lent colonial setting. d Madero 4 BOE'JMPNFOP.BUBCt.BQ1t
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Small restaurants may only accept cash; vegetarians might want 73

to ask about cooking oil as animal fat is frequently used
Around Town – Paseo de la Reforma and Zona Rosa
Left Detail, Monumento a la Revolución Center El Caballito Right Monumento a la Independencia
Paseo de la Reforma and Zona Rosa
P ASEO DE LA REFORMA WAS BUILT in 1865 at the direction of Emperor

Maximilian I on the lines of Paris’s Champs-Élysées. Today this broad
boulevard is one of the city’s showpieces, a major thoroughfare with
gleaming monuments of marble and gold punctuating the grand traffic
circles, the glorietas. It offers pedestrians a beautiful promenade of shady
trees, flower gardens, bronze statues, and park benches. Zona Rosa, an
eclectic area of sidewalk cafés, fine restaurants, mid-size hotels, diverse
shopping venues, and pulsating nightlife is on the south of the boulevard.
Sights
1 Monumento a la 6 Monumento a
Revolución Cuauhtémoc
2 Museo Nacional de la 7 Zona Rosa
Revolución
8 Monumento a la
3 Museo Nacional de Independencia, El Ángel
San Carlos
9 Fuente de la Diana
4 El Caballito (The Little Cazadora
Horse)
0 Museo Casa de
5 Monumento de Colón Carranza
El Ángel

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ZBSET NFUFST
74 Take a stroll down the promenade or ride the Turibus to see the
monuments in the glorietas (traffic circles)
! Monumento
Revolución
a la
This massive monument to the

Revolution dominates the Plaza
of the Republic. Construction of

the building began during
President Porfirio Díaz’s reign,
and was to have housed the
legislature. Following the bloody
revolt, the unfinished shell was
repurposed to memorialize the
Revolution and serve as a Rear façade, Museo Nacional de San Carlos
mausoleum for the remains of
some of the uprising’s heroes,
including Pancho Villa, Venustiano £ Museo
Carlos
Nacional de San
Carranza, Francisco I. Madero, This impressive Neo-Classical

Plutarco Elías Calles, and Lázaro building designed by Manuel
Cárdenas. d Plaza de la República, Col Tolsá houses a most impressive
$VBVIUÏNPDt.BQ- collection of European art. It
displays paintings from the 15th
to the early 20th century and
includes notable oils from the
Flemish, French, Italian, and
Spanish schools. Highlights
include oils by Rubens, sketches
by Goya, and sculptures by
Rodin. d "W1VFOUFEF"MWBSBEP $PM
5BCBDBMFSBt.BQ.t
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@ Museo Nacional de la
Revolución
$ El(TheCaballito
This excellent museum in the Little Horse)
basement of the Monumento a This monumental bright yellow
la Revolución portrays Mexican metallic sculpture by renowned
history from 1867 to the Mexican artist Sebastián was
Revolutionary constitution of dedicated in 1992. Considered
1917. The exhibits focus on the one of his finest works, the
people and events of this period, statue makes a dramatic
telling the story through the use statement and dominates the
of photographs, newspaper plaza it stands in with the
headlines announcing the skyscraper known as the Torre
Revolution, historic documents, del Caballito behind it. The
furnishings, displays of the modern statue represents the
personal belongings of key head of a horse and replaced a
figures, guns and rifles used in classical sculpture by Manuel
battle of 1914, and a reward Tolsá of Charles IV on horseback.
poster for Pancho Villa dated It had stood there for 127 years,
March 9, 1916. d Plaza de la until 1979 when the street was
3FQÞCMJDB $PM5BCBDBMFSBt.BQ- altered. Both sculptures are
ttBNoQN5VFo4VO known as El Caballito. d 1BTFPEF
t"ENGSFF4VOtXXXDVMUVSBEGHPCNY MB3FGPSNBBOE3PTBMFTt.BQ.
Manuel Tolsa’s El Caballito (the original “Little Horse”) now stands 75

across the street from the Palacio de Minería
Walk of the Reform
Emperor Maximilian I named the
& Zona Rosa
Once a trendy neighborhood
road “Causeway of the Empress” of first-class hotels and restau-
for his wife. After the Republic was rants, sidewalk cafés, and
restored, it was renamed Paseo de boutiques, Zona Rosa’s elegant
la Reforma (Walk of the Reform). past has been overrun by the

The road was transformed, and tawdry nightlife now found here.
under Porfirio Díaz the major Visitors should exercise caution
monuments were placed in the
if they are going out in the
glorietas (traffic circles), and 36
statues of national heroes were evening. d Paseo de la Reforma, Niza,
placed along the road. Av Chapultepec and Varsovia • Map K4
% Monumento de Colón
Explorer Christopher
Columbus is commemorated in
this monument inaugurated in
1877. Created in France by artist
Carlos Cordier, the statue was
donated to the city by Don
Antonio Escandón. Seated on
the red limestone pedestal
below Colón (Colombus) are four
bronze statues of Friar Diego de
Deza who supported his project, Zona Rosa
Friar Juan Pérez de Marchena,
Friar Bartolomé de las Casas,
defender of the native cause, * Monumento a la
Independencia, El Ángel
and Friar Pedro de Gante. d Paseo Widely referred to as El Ángel
de la Reforma glorieta at Av Morelos and for the Winged Victory at the
I. Ramírez • Map L3 top, the glorious monument to
Mexican Independence was
^ Monumento
Cuauhtémoc
a inaugurated in 1910 to
celebrate Mexico’s first
Cuauhtémoc was the last century of independence
Aztec emperor and led the from Spain. The steel
defense of Tenochtitlán column covered with the
against the Spaniards until names of heroes is
he was captured during the 118 ft (36 m) high. The
final battle at Tlatelolco on Winged Victory, by
August 13, 1521. This powerful artist Enrique Alciati,
monument was designed by is of bronze covered
Francisco Jiménez and the with gold and stands
bronze statue of Cuauhtémoc 22 ft (6.7 m) high. The
holding his spear aloft was four bronze statues at
sculpted by Miguel Noreña. the corners of the base
The bas-reliefs on the of the column symbo-
base depict the torture lize Law, Justice,
of Cuauhtémoc by the War, and Peace.
Spanish. d Paseo de la d Paseo de la Reforma,
Reforma glorieta at Monumento a glorieta at Florencia
Insurgentes Sur • Map K3 Cauhtémoc • Map J4
76
( Fuente de
la Diana
Paseo de la Reforma
by Foot and Turibus
Cazadora
A magnificent Morning
statue of Roman Begin from El Caballito

goddess Diana (see p75), at the corner of
the Huntress Av Juárez and board the
Turibus (see p104) to the
adorns the Monumento a la
fountain in the Revolución (see p75)
westernmost north of the Reforma. Hop
glorieta on the off at stop #13 to visit
Museo Nacional de la
Fuente de la Diana Paseo de la Revolución (see p75) and
Cazadora Reforma. also the Museo Nacional
Sculpted by San Carlos (see p75).
John Olaguíbel, the bronze Back on the bus, take a top
statue weighs over a ton. The deck seat to view the sky-
voluptuous nude Diana created line and the Monumento
de Colón and Monumento
much debate and controversy in a Cuauhtémoc at the
1942, and finally the artist glorietas. A majestic palm
covered her loins with a bronze tree occupies the next
covering, which remained in glorieta. To the north is the
place until 1967. The stone Bolsa Mexicana de
Valores (see p45) with its
fountain was designed by glass dome between two
architect Vicente Mendiola. high-rise glass buildings.
d Paseo de la Reforma glorieta at Río Get off at stop #15 for
Rhin • Map G3 Monumento a la
Independencia. Walk
south across Reforma into
) Museo Casa de Carranza
Venustiano Carranza was a
the shopping and café
district of Zona Rosa. On
Mexican Revolutionary leader the right is Mercado
and President of the Republic Insurgentes (see p52) and
from 1917–20. He was later on the left is Plaza del
Ángel (see p78). Just
executed in Puebla on May 7, ahead is a great café,
1920. He lived in this 1908 Konditori (see p79), where
building, inspired by French you can stop for lunch.
architecture, for the last six Afternoon
months of his life. Memorabilia
Return to the Turibus stop
from Carranza’s life, furnishings, #15. Take a seat upstairs
art, and a library of the and watch for the Roman
Constitution of 1917 fill 13 goddess Diana, the hunt-
exhibition rooms. The museum ress, in the final glorieta
has an extensive photographic standing atop Fuente de
la Diana Cazadora. Step
collection which covers the off the bus at stop #16
tumultuous period of the and head to the 52nd floor
Mexican Revolution. It includes of Torre Mayor (see p45)
photos of the legislative council for an incredible view of
that approved Mexico’s present Mexico City. Downstairs,
the Torre Mayor also has
constitution on February 5, 1917. trendy shops, boutiques,
d Río Lerma 35, Col Cuauhtémoc • Map and cafés. Stop for a cup
K3 • 5546-6494 • 9am–6pm Tue–Sat, of café con leche, a special
10am–5pm Sun • Adm • www.cnca.gob. Mexican coffee.
mx/cnca/inah/museos/sitio/dfsit.html

Left Antique shop, Plaza del Ángel Right Via Spiga
Shopping
! Fonart
One of the best stores to ^ Galería Arvil
This gallery specializes in
shop for Mexican handicrafts – contemporary Mexican art.
everything from ceramics to d $FSSBEBEF)BNCVSHP $PM+VÈSF[t
woven baskets are available .BQ)ttXXXBSWJMDPNNY
here. d Av Paseo de la Reforma No.
$PM+VÈSF[t.BQ-t
tXXXGPOBSUDPNNY & Galería
Maren
Enrique Jiménez
The gallery houses an eclectic
@ Plaza del Ángel

This attractive plaza houses
selection of modern and contem-
porary Mexican art, including
some 30 antique shops selling sculptures and paintings. d Paseo
an amazing selection of fine EFMB3FGPSNB $PM+VÈSF[t.BQ,
antiques, including porcelain, oil ttXXXHBMFSJBNBSFODPNNY
paintings, furniture, and silver.
d -POESFT $PM+VÈSF[t.BQ)
* Plaza la Rosa
This lively shopping center in
£ Mercado Insurgentes
One of the best, and most
the center of Zona Rosa offers
dozens of name-brand clothing
fun places to shop for silver stores. d #FUXFFO"NCFSFTBOE
jewelry, sculpture, and tableware (ÏOPWB $PM+VÈSF[t.BQ)
is at this Zona Rosa marketplace.
With some 200 booths, the
selection of jewelry is outstand- ( Sanborns
This department store offers
ing TFFQ
. a restaurant, ATM, pharmacy, gift
items, and a books, periodicals,
$ Via Spiga
The latest handcrafted Italian
and CD section. d )PUFM$BMJOEB
(FOFWF 1BTFPEFMB3FGPSNBt.BQ
leather boots, shoes, purses, and )ttXXXTBOCPSOTDPNNY
bags of excellent quality are
available here. d )BNCVSHP $PM
+VÈSF[t.BQ)t ) Talleres de los Ballesteros
Excellent Mexican silver
goods are sold here. d "NCFSFT
% This gallery sells colorful,

Hevart’s Galería de Arte o $PM+VÈSF[t.BQ,t
$9 3$
548
classically inspired, Mexican- % $
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78
Price Categories

Above Italianni’s
Places to Eat
! Gaudí
Fine Spanish cuisine is ^ Café Milano
Richly flavored Italian cuisine
served in this elegant dining and international favorites are on
room. Entrées include red the menu in this café at the
snapper in cider, and medallions Hotel Marco Polo TFFQ
.
of steak in sherry. In the lobby
the pleasant café serves break-
fast, light meals, and a Mexican & Konditori
This café is famous for its
buffet. d *NQFSJBM)PUFM 1BTFPEFMB flaky Danish pastries and Scandi-
3FGPSNBt.BQ-t navian cuisine. Sandwiches and
other entrées are also available
@ Manhattan Deli
This attractive restaurant
here. d (ÏOPWB $PM+VÈSF[t.BQ,
ttXXXLPOEJUPSJDPNNY
serves New York-style deli meals t
in an upscale but relaxed atmo-
sphere. d )PUFM.BSÓB*TBCFM4IFSBUPO
t.BQ+tFYUOt * Les Moustaches
Excellent French cuisine and
wine are served here. d 3ÓP4FOB
£ Creative Basque-influenced
Tezka $PM$VBVIUÏNPDt.BQ)t
tXXXMFTNPVTUBDIFTDPNNYt
cuisine blends sweet and savory
flavors throughout the menu of
this place. The extensive wine ( Cielo Rojo
Savor the excellent traditional
list complements the entrées. Mexican cuisine served here with
d )PUFM3PZBM ;POB3PTBt.BQ) tequila, margaritas, NF[DBM, or
tt$MPTFE4VOEBZt QVMRVF. d (ÏOPWB $PM+VÈSF[t.BQ
,tt
$ This bright and cheerful

Italianni’s
) Café el Péndulo
family rest aurant serves pasta, Large platters of IVFWPT
pizzas, and wine. d Plaza la Rosa, QÏOEVMP, omelets, soups, and
$PM+VÈSF[t.BQ)ttXXX salads are served here.
JUBMJBOOJTDPNt d )BNCVSHP $PM+VÈSF[t.BQ)
ttXXXQFOEVMPDPNt
% Fonda el Refugio
Authentic cuisine from the
5 2
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major regions of Mexico is
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Around Town – Chapultepec and Polanco
Left Bosque de Chapultepec Center Museo Rufino Tamayo Right Performers from Veracruz
Chapultepec and Polanco
F OR CENTURIES AN EXCLUSIVE RETREAT for the leaders of ancient Mexico,

Bosque de Chapultepec was turned into a public park by President Lázaro
Cárdenas in the 1930s. Today, it seems, almost everyone in the city heads to
the park on weekends to enjoy the lakes, woods, zoo, and museums. Vendors
lining the pathways contribute to the festive air. Just north of the park,
Polanco is home to many of the city’s wealthiest residents. It also has high-
end stores, fine restaurants, pleasant cafés, and boutique shops.
Sights
1 Museo Nacional de 6 Monumento a los Niños
Antropología Héroes
2 Castillo de Chapultepec 7 Museo de Historia Natural
3 Museo de Arte Moderno 8 Bosque de Chapultepec
4 Museo Rufino Tamayo 9 Fuente de Tláloc
5 Zoológico de Chapultepec 0 Papalote Museo del Niño Lago Mayor, Bosque de
Chapultepec

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82 Preceding pages Gardens, Castillo de Chapultepec

! Museo Nacional de
Antropología £ Museo de Arte Moderno
Excellent modern paintings,
This internationally renowned sculpture, and photography from
anthropology museum show- some of the best known 20th-
cases, in a series of halls, original century Mexican artists

artifacts from pre- are part of the permanent
Hispanic Mexico collection housed in this
discovered at Pedro Ramírez Vásquez-
archeological sites designed building. Frida
throughout the Kahlo’s huge painting,
country. The -BT%PT'SJEBT(5IF5XP
magnificent 180-ton Chacmool, Museo 'SJEBT), is on display
monolith of Tláloc, Nacional de Antropología here. Oil paintings by the
God of Rain, stands great muralists are well
near the entrance. Inside, an represented, as are works by
impressive central courtyard is José Luis Cuevas (b. 1934) and
dominated by a modern, 36-ft (11- Manuel Felguérez (b. 1928).
m), intricately decorated pillar. It d 1BTFPEFMB3FGPSNBBOE(BOEIJ
symbolically represents the pre- #PTRVFEF$IBQVMUFQFDt.BQ't
Hispanic past and the scientific tBNoQN5VFo4VOt"ENGSFF
and technological future. It alone 4VOtXXXDPOBDVMUBHPCNYNBN
supports a 275-ft (84-m) long
concrete canopy (see pp8–9).
@ Castillo de Chapultepec
Located atop the highest
point in Bosque de Chapultepec,
the enormous castle with its
fortress-like walls dominates the Museo de Arte Moderno
Mexico City skyline. The personal
residence of Emperor Maximilian
I, President Porfirio Díaz, and $ Museo Rufino Tamayo
This magnificent collection
other Mexican presidents until by internationally recognized
1939, the castle is now the head- modern artists was accumulated
quarters of the National History by renowned Mexican artist
Museum with two sections – the Rufino Tamayo. Tamayo and his
Alcázar and the Castillo (see p43). wife Olga donated the museum
d Section 1, Bosque de Chapultepec and their collection in 1981. More
t.BQ&ttBNoQN than 160 artists, international as
5VFo4VOt"EN GSFF4VOtXXX well as Mexican, are represented
DBTUJMMPEFDIBQVMUFQFDJOBIHPCNY including Salvador Dalí, Max
Ernst, William de Kooning, Andy
Warhol, Francisco Toledo, José
Luis Cuevas, Sebastián, and of
course Rufino Tamayo. Selected
works from the permanent
collection are exhibited, along-
side temporary visiting exhibi-
tions. d 1BTFPEFMB3FGPSNBBOE
(BOEIJ #PTRVFEF$IBQVMUFQFDt.BQ
&ttBNoQN5VFo4VOt
Castillo de Chapultepec "EN GSFF4VOtXXXNVTFPUBNBZPPSH
83
Voladores de Papantla
The flying men from Veracruz
present their traditional ritual near
the entrance to the Museo
Nacional de Antropología. Five
men climb to the top of a 75-ft

(23-m) pole. As one plays music
and dances, the other four take Museo de Historia Natural
turns to gracefully slide off the
platform with a rope tied to one
leg, gradually swirling upside down
until each reaches the ground.
& Museo de Historia Natural
The displays of this museum
are ideal for children to learn
about the natural world. A small
% Zoológico de Chapultepec
Famous for its giant pandas,
planetarium offers exhibits on the
creation of the universe, the solar
the zoo is home to more than system, and earth. A dinosaur
250 different species. skeleton dominates the
Here, popular center of the Evolution
animals such as of Life Hall. Three
tigers and ele- stuffed polar bears are
phants live the highlights of the
alongside rare Life on Earth Hall.
native animals, There is also a section
such as the on the Natural History
Mexican hairless dog. Elephant, Zoológico de of Mexico. d Section 2,
d Section 1, Bosque de Chapultepec Bosque de Chapultepec
$IBQVMUFQFDt.BQ%t t.BQ#t
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^ Monumento
Héroes
a los Niños
* Bosque de Chapultepec
One of the largest, prettiest,
This striking marble monument at and most visited urban parks in
the main entrance to Bosque de the world, Bosque de
Chapultepec honors the six young Chapultepec is loved by
cadets who fought valiantly during Mexicans and visitors alike.
the US invasion of 1847, defying Many visitors discover the park
orders to retreat. The last cadet while visiting the Museo
standing, wrapped the Mexican Nacional de Antropología or the
flag around himself and jumped spectacular hilltop Castillo de
off the battlements. d Section 2, Chapultepec which houses the
#PTRVFEF$IBQVMUFQFDt.BQ# Museo Nacional de Historia. The
park offers miles of paved
walkways that lead through
woods, past lakes, into lovely
gardens, and connect to many
more significant museums and
attractions. There are lakeside
restaurants, picnic spots with
tall, shady trees, shops, and
places to rent paddleboats
Monumento a los Niños Héroes TFFQQo
.
84 Zoológico de Chapultepec also has an extensive collection of

birds, including a large walk-through aviary of Mexican species
( Fuente de Tláloc
This whimsical multi-hued
Museum Highlights
Walk
horizontal mosaic sculpture of a
running Tláloc, the Aztec God of Morning
Rain, was designed by Diego To the right of the

Rivera in 1952. A favorite with entrance to Bosque de
children, the fountain spreads in Chapultepec is the
front of a small building called El Museo de Arte Moderno.
Turn left on the road that
Cárcamo that was once part of leads up to the Castillo de
the city’s water system. Inside, Chapultepec (see p43).
Diego Rivera painted huge When you reach the Casa
murals with beautiful flowing de los Espejos (see p25)
designs venerating water and the take a tram to the top of
the hill. The road curves
workers who built the system past the Museo del
that brings water into Mexico Caracol (see p24), which
City. d Section 2, Bosque de highlights major moments
Chapultepec • Map C5 in Mexican history. At the
top of the hill enter the
Castillo and go straight to
the Alcázar Section of
the Museo Nacional de
Historia (see p43). Explore
the opulent rooms of the
former President’s
Mansion, walk up the
Staircase of the Lions,
and visit the Garden of
the Keep (see p25). Head
Papalote Museo del Niño back to the museum’s
Castillo Section (see p43)
and look at the murals in
) Papalote Museo del Niño
“Not touching is forbidden”
the main staircase and the
first floor before visiting
is the motto at this fascinating the gift shop.
children’s museum. All of the Afternoon
250 activities are interactive and
Descend the hill and
focus on art, science, and
follow a sidewalk lined
technology. A creative complex with many vendors – you
of three brightly colored cubic, may want to buy a cold
spherical, and triangular shaped bottled drink – to Lago de
buildings, designed by architect Chapultepec (see p23).
Turn right toward the
Ricardo Legorreta, houses the
Museo Nacional de
museum. The building also has Antropología (see pp8–9)
an IMAX theater. The museum and follow the signs. After
adds new exhibits frequently, you enter the museum go
often collaborating with into the courtyard and turn
left down the stairs for
corporate donors to include
lunch in the excellent café.
state-of-the-art equipment and Spend the rest of the day
activities. Two of the most exploring the fabulous
popular exhibits are the flight halls of this renowned
simulator and the interactive anthropological museum.
Be sure to see the Mexica
traditional crafts area. d Section 2,
Hall (see pp10–11) at the
Bosque de Chapultepec • Map C6 end of the courtyard, and
• 5237-1710 • 9am–6pm daily • Adm the Teotihuacán Hall.
• www.papalote.org.mx

Left Fashion stores, Avenida Presidente Masarik Center Talavera ceramics Right Shops, Polanco
Shops and Galleries

! Galería Enrique Guerrero
This gallery presents the
hand-painted with the traditional
bright blue and yellow colors.
works of masters such as José d "MFKBOESP%VNBT $PM1PMBODP
Clemente Orozco. Contemporary tXXXVSJBSUFUBMBWFSBDPNNY
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@ Galería Lopez Quiroga

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$ Galería Juan Martín

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thing from shawls to toys.
d 1PMBODP PGG0TDBS8JMEF
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Masarik
Presidente
by Francisco Toledo. d %JDLFOT# This avenue is lined with the

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86
Price Categories

Left Ristorante Capri Right Meridiem, with a view of the beautiful Lago Mayor
Places to Eat
! Hacienda de los Morales
Elegant international and
food and classic onion soup are
the specialties here TFFQ
.
Mexican dining in a charming, d 3FTFSWBUJPOTSFDPNNFOEFEt
16th-century colonial hacienda.
d 7È[RVF[EF.FMMB$PM%FM#PTRVF
tt$PBUBOEUJFGPSEJOOFS & Thai Gardens
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SFTFSWBUJPOTSFRVJSFEtXXX is served in this elegant restau-
IBDJFOEBEFMPTNPSBMFTDPNt rant. d $BMEFSØOEFBM#BSDB $PM
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Giandolce UIBJHBSEFOTHSPVQDPNt
NBSJOBSB(eggs with sauce),

GPDBDDJB bread sandwiches, and * Izote
Renowned cookbook author
ice creams. d "W1SFTJEFOUF.BTBSJL Patricia Quintana prepares
$PM1PMBODP.BQ%t creative Mexican cuisine with
tXXXHJBOEPMDFDPNt traditional pre-Hispanic ingre-
dients. d "W1SFTJEFOUF.BTBSJL
£ Snob Café
This pretty courtyard café
$PM1PMBODPtt3FTFSWBUJPOT
SFDPNNFOEFEt
offers gourmet coffees and
desserts, with breakfast and
lunch selections. d 0TDBS8JMEF ( Rincón Argentino
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1BTBKF1PMBODP $PM1PMBODPt beef are grilled to order. The
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Around Town – Coyoacán and San Ángel
Left El Bazar de Sábado Restaurant Right Museo del Carmen
Coyoacán and San Ángel

O NCE SMALL COLONIAL TOWNS, both Coyoacán and San Ángel have
retained their charm although they are engulfed by the ever-expanding
Mexico City. Both are tranquil oases that offer glimpses of traditional Mexican
life, with green park-like plazas, cobblestone streets, flower gardens, and old
colonial mansions. In 1519, Cortés made Coyoacán his base during the siege
of Tenochtitlán. Dominican and Carmelite friars moved into San Ángel after
the Spanish conquest. In the 20th century the area’s quiet beauty attracted
artists and celebrities including Diego Rivera, Frida Kahlo, and political
refugee León Trotsky. Visitors flock here to visit the
Sights former homes and studios of these famous people
1 Museo Frida Kahlo and savor the towns’ artistic environment. They
2 Plaza Hidalgo shop for paintings and crafts, enjoy the sidewalk
3 Museo Nacional de las cafés, boutique shops, and museums.
Intervenciones
4 Museo León Trotsky
5 Bazar de Sábado
6 Ex-Convento e Iglesia
del Carmen
7 Museo Casa Estudio
Diego Rivera y Frida
Kahlo
8 Museo Nacional de la
Acuarela
9 Museo de Arte Carrillo
Gil
0 Museo Soumaya
Jardín del Centenario, Plaza Hidalgo
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88 In the Náhuatl language Coyoacán means “Place of the Coyotes”

£ Museo Nacional de las
Intervenciones
Museo Nacional de las
Intervenciones is located within
the complex of El Antiguo

Convento Churubusco. It chron-
icles the invasions of Mexico
following its independence from
Spain. Highlighted here is the
Spanish invasion of 1829, the
French invasion of 1838–9, the
US invasion of 1846–7, the
French invasion of 1862–7 as
Museo Frida Kahlo well as incursions by the USA in
1914 and 1916. There are
! Museo Frida Kahlo

This vibrant blue house is
displays of documents, military
artifacts, uniforms, and stories of
where Frida Kahlo was born and the heroes and villains.
spent most of her life creating d $BMMFEF"HPTUPTO $PM4BO%JFHP
her greatest works. A self-taught $IVSVCVTDPttBNoQN
painter, she developed a unique 5VFo4VOt"ENtXXXJOBIHPCNY
style here that blended realist
and surrealist elements. The
house is filled with personal $ Museo León Trotsky
Often referred to as the
belongings, paintings, and the “Little Fortress”, this was the
favorite artworks of Frida and her home of Russian revolutionary
husband, Diego Rivera. Frida’s León Trotsky from 1939 until his
studio has her easel and assassination here on August 20,
paintbrushes, the bedroom 1940. The house remains the
displays her signature Mexican way it was on the day he was
regional clothing and jewelry, murdered. The desk in his study
and the cheery kitchen is filled is covered with his papers, pens,
with Mexican pottery. d Londres a calendar, and a magnifying
$PM$PZPBDÈOt.BQ9t glass. Also seen are his books
tBNoQN5VFo4VOt"ENtXXX and typewriter. Bullet holes from
NVTFPGSJEBLBIMPPSH an earlier attempt on his life
riddle the walls, and worn
@ Plaza Hidalgo
At one end of this bustling
Mexican rugs lie on the floors.
His ashes are interred in the
plaza stands the Iglesia de San peaceful courtyard. d "W3ÓP
Juan Bautista. The church’s $IVSVCVTDPt.BQ9t
elegant interior features a 17th- tBNoQN5VFo4VOt"EN
century Baroque altarpiece.
Across the plaza is the 18th-
century municipal building.
Murals depicting local history are
in the attached chapel. Across
the Calles Carrillo Puerto is
Jardín del Centenario TFFQ
.
Here stands the famous Fountain
of Coyoacán. d $BMMFT$BSSJMMP1VFSUP
$BCBMMPDBMDPBOE#%PNÓOHVF[t.BQ9 Museo León Trotsky
Weekends at the Plaza Hidalgo are festive, with musicians and 89

mime artists entertaining the crowd
La Malinche in 1914 contains the mummified
Mystery surrounds La Malinche, bodies of priests, nuns, and
the indigenous woman who was nobility. On the top floor is a
Cortés’ mistress, translator, and chapel with a Baroque altar.
trusted negotiator. It is believed d "W3FWPMVDJØO 4BO«OHFMt.BQ5
that she was sold into slavery ttBNoQN5VFo4VOt"EN

after her father’s death. Whether GPSNVTFVN GSFF4VO
she was a victim or an
opportunist is debated, but
Mexicans often view her as a
traitor to her people. She lived in
Coyoacán with Cortés’ son.
% Bazar de Sábado
This festive Saturday-only
shopping event is housed in an Frida Kahlo’s studio
old colonial mansion. Dozens of
tastefully decorated booths
displaying exquisite decorative & Museo Casa Estudio
Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo
and functional art fill the rooms Built by fellow muralist, friend,
around the courtyard. Intricate and architect Juan O’Gorman in
silver jewelry, hand-embroidered 1931–2, the complex has two
clothing, papier-mâché figures, buildings joined by a second-floor
hand-carved and painted wood- walkway. The larger white studio
work, and ceramics are on offer. was Diego Rivera’s, where he
The mansion’s court yard is home painted many of his best known
to the El Bazar de Sábado oils. The smaller blue one was
Restaurant (see p93). d Plaza San Frida Kahlo’s when she lived here
+BDJOUPt.BQ4tBNoQN4BU with Rivera. Diego’s has been
left unaltered, with some of the
^ Ex-Convento
Carmen
e Iglesia del paintings still standing
on easels. d Calle Diego Rivera and
Built for Carmelite monks in the "MUBWJTUBt.BQ4t
17th century, three beautiful tBNoQN5VFo4VOt"EN
mosaic-tiled domes adorn the
church. The next-door museum,
Museo del Carmen, offers * Museo Nacional de la
Acuarela
displays of exceptional religious This internationally renowned
art. A basement crypt discovered museum was founded by cele-
brated artist Alfredo Guati Rojo
and his wife. It has a permanent
exhibit on the history of water-
color in Mexico, an international
section, and galleries displaying
contemporary works by Mexican
artists. Works by masters such
as Pastor Velazquez, Manuel M.
Ituarte, Eduardo Solares, and
Leandro Izaguirre adorn the
gallery walls. d Salvador Novo 88
t.BQ7ttBNoQN
The domes of the Museo del Carmen 5VFo4VOt'SFF
90
( Museo de Arte Carrillo Gil
The museum’s permanent
A Stroll Through
Coyoacán
collection of early 20th-century
Mexican masters includes Morning
paintings by José Clemente Begin at the Museo

Orozco, David Alfaro Siqueiros, Nacional de la Acuarela
Diego Rivera, Gunther Gerzso, located on Salvador Novo,
south of Avenida Francisco
Wolfgang Paalen, and others. The Sosa. After viewing the
collection was assembled by excellent watercolors, walk
Dr. Álvar and Carmen Carrillo Gil back to Avenida Francisco
and is housed in a bright, Sosa along one of the
modern three-story building in prettiest cobblestone
streets of Coyoacán with
San Ángel. The museum is noted its many attractive old
for its exceptional temporary colonial mansions and the
exhibits featuring Mexican and charming yellow Church of
international contemporary art. Santa Catarina built in the
d "W3FWPMVDJØOt.BQ5t middle of 17th century.
Cross the street into the
tBNoQN5VFo4VOt"EN GSFF
garden of the cultural
4VOtXXXNVTFPEFBSUFDBSSJMMPHJMDPN center, Casa de la Cultura
Jesús Reyes Heroles (No.
202). Farther along is the
Jardín del Centenario
TFFQ
. View the
Fountain of the Coyotes.
Move to the adjacent Plaza
Hidalgo and admire the
interior of the Iglesia de
San Juan Bautista. Explore
the area around the plaza.
Museo de Arte Carillo Gil
Lunch at trendy Los
Danzantes (see p93).
) Museo Soumaya
This private museum Afternoon
features Latin America’s largest Head north on Allende for
collection of sculptures in three blocks to Mercado
de Coyoacán TFFQ
marble, bronze, and terracotta by

and soak in the sights,
famed French sculptor Auguste sounds, and smells in this
Rodin (1840–1917). The collection pretty market where
includes Burghers of Calais, The colorful arrays of fresh
Kiss, Eve, The Eternal Spring, fruits and vegetables,
piñatas, toys, and crafts
and many other fine sculptures.
are on sale amid the
Other collections include 18th- tantalizing smell of
and 19th-century Mexican Mexican food. Carry on to
portraits, the Art of New Spain, Londres to visit the
and works by international artists Museo Frida Kahlo (see
p89) where the famous
such as Edgar Degas, Paul
artist was born, lived, and
Gauguin, and Camille Claudelle. painted. Continue on to
The museum also displays Viena and turn right to visit
temporary exhibits by renowned Museo León Trotsky (see
Mexican and international artists. p89). Head back to Plaza
Hidalgo for some of
d "W3FWPMVDJØOBOE3ÓP.BHEBMFOB
Coyoacán’s renowned ice
1MB[B-PSFUPtt cream at Helados La
BNoQN8FEo.PO UJMMQN Siberia (see p93).
'SJ4BU
t"ENtXXXTPVNBZBDPN

Left Bust of Diego Rivera Center Museo Dolores Olmedo Right Courtyard, Museo Frida Kahlo
Frida Kahlo, Diego Rivera, and

Mexican National Art
! National Art
After the Civil War ended in & Homes and Studios
Frida lived and painted in her
1920, President Álvaro Obregón Coyoacán home, now Museo
decided that education and a Frida Kahlo (see p89), for much
new form of distinctly Mexican of her life. After their marriage
art would help heal the wounds Rivera built his San Ángel studio,
of the war and unite the country. now Museo Casa Estudio Diego
Rivera y Frida Kahlo (see p90).
@ The First Murals

As part of the policy, the
They lived there for a time, and
this is where he did most of his
government comissioned Diego painting. After Frida died, Diego
Rivera in 1922. He painted The built a new studio nearby, now
Creation, in the Antiguo Colegio known as the Museo Diego
de San Ildefonso (see p68). Rivera Anahuacalli (see p97).
£ Artistic Syndicate
The Revolutionary Syndicate * Museo Dolores Olmedo
A friend and patron of Diego
of Technical Workers, Painters, Rivera, Dolores Olmedo Patiño
and Sculptors was formed in 1922 collected his work and made a
with the intent to focus on public museum of her estate (see p95).
art, rather than easel painting.
$ Diego Rivera (1886–1957) ( Frida Kahlo’s Most

Famous Works
A master painter, he was Frida Kahlo’s Two Fridas is at the
trained in Mexico and Europe, and Museo de Arte Moderno (see
was known for his bright, bold p83) and Self-Portrait with a
figures and visual story telling. Monkey and The Broken Spine
are at Museo Dolores Olmedo.
% Frida Kahlo (1907–54)

A self-taught artist, Frida
) Diego Rivera’s Most
created paintings that captured Famous Works
her emotions and political ideals The most visited mural is Epic of
in a unique style combining the Mexican People in the Palacio
realist and surrealist elements. Nacional (see pp14–15). Man
the Controller of the Universe
^ Diego Rivera and Frida

Kahlo Romance
in the Palacio de Bellas Artes
(see pp20–21) is a re-creation
Individually they created vastly of his Rockefeller Center mural.
different art but together their Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in
tumultuous relationship came to the Alameda Central is in Museo
embody 20th-century Mexican art. Mural Diego Rivera (see p51).
92 Museo Dolores Olmedo has the largest collection of easel

paintings by Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo in the world
Price Categories

Los Danzantes
Places to Eat
! Helados Siberia
This legendary ice cream ^ San Ángel Inn
Housed in an old Carmelite
shop has an excellent selection monastery, this fine restaurant
of flavors. d Plaza Jardín del offers both formal and casual
$FOUFOBSJP $PM$PZPBDÈOt.BQ9 dining. d Diego Rivera 50, Col San
t$BTIPOMZt «OHFMt.BQ4ttXXX
TBOBOHFMJOODPNt
@ Café El Parnaso
The outdoor tables in this
& Entre Vero
café and bookstore are a great This attractive and informal
spot to enjoy a light meal or have bistro serves Uruguayan special-
a coffee. Empanadas with meat, ties. d Jardín Centenario 14-C, Col
fish, or vegetarian fillings, $PZPBDÈOt.BQ8tt
omelets, and pastries are most
popular. d Carrillo Puerto 2, Plaza
+BSEÓO$FOUFOBSJP $PM$PZPBDÈOt.BQ * Tasca Manolo
This restaurant’s menu is
9tt international eclectic, with tradi-
tional Spanish entrées and Mexi-
£ Cantina La Coyoacana
This traditional family cantina
can favorites. d Av de la Paz 32, Col
4BO«OHFMt.BQ5tt
with its bullfighting decor serves
Mexican specialties in a circa-
1932 mansion with an antique ( Cluny
Savory French entrées and
bar, stained-glass windows, and dessert crepes attract diners to
a great ambience. d Higuera 14, Col this restaurant. d Av de la Paz 57, Col
$PZPBDÈOt.BQ9t 4BO«OHFMt.BQ5ttXXX
t.POo4BUt DMVOZDPNNYt
$ Fonda San Ángel

Mexican specialties with ) ElRestaurant
Bazar de Sábado
exceptional sauces are served in This café is housed in the court-

this cozy restaurant. d Plaza San yard of the Bazar de Sábado (see
+BDJOUP $PM4BO«OHFMt.BQ5 p90). d Plaza San Jacinto 13, Col San
ttXXXGPOEBTBOBOHFM «OHFMt.BQ4ttBNo
DPNNYt QN4BUCSVODI oQN4BUMVODItXXX
GPOEBTBOBOHFMDPNNYt
% Los Danzantes
,2 1
68 5
Contemporary Mexican
$9 5 ( 92 / 8&
( 1 7 (6
$'
$9
3AN
6,'
fusion cuisine with Oaxacan fla-

0
7JWFSPT
(5
6 8 5*
(;
NGEL
1 ,9
,&
vors and a creative twist is served

8
2
$9 ,1
$9 #OYOAC N
1FTFSP
here. d Plaza Jardín Centenario 12, Col /PSUF .JHVFM"OHFM
EF2VFWFEP
0 , *8 (/ $ 1
* ( / '( 4 8
$PZPBDÈOt.BQ8ttXXX 1FTFSP
(9 ( '2
5FSNJOBM
MPTEBO[BOUFTDPNt

Around Town – Greater Mexico City
Left Tenayuca Center Canal, Xochimilco Floating Gardens Right Plaza de las Tres Culturas
Greater Mexico City
B EYOND THE TRADITIONAL AREAS brimming with attractions in Mexico

City, there are many other fascinating sites away from the center and
visitable by taxi or bus tour. Every year millions visit Villa de Guadalupe, the
holiest shrine in Mexico. Locals and visitors alike flock to Xochimilco to tour
the ancient canals, while art lovers enjoy the nearby Museo Dolores Olmedo.
Weekends and holidays are perfect times for excursions to the cool, refresh-
ing pine-forested mountains of the National Parks. Ecological parks offer
varied outdoor activities in the heart of nature.
Sights
1 Villa de Guadalupe
2 Plaza de las Tres
Culturas
3 Tenayuca and Santa
Cecilia Acatitlán
4 Museo Dolores
Olmedo
5 Xochimilco Floating Parque Nacional Desierto de los Leones
Gardens
6 Parque Ecológico
Xochimilco 7ODOQHSDQWOD 7HQD\XFD
;DORVWRF
7 Parque Nacional
$=

Desierto de los Leones
92 %
'( 32
5 7 ,92 9LOODGH
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8 Parque Nacional los

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$ *XDGDOXSH
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9 Parroquia de San 1XHYD GH$UDJ´Q
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Nueva Basílica, Villa de GH6LHQD
Guadalupe NJMFT LN
94
£ Tenayuca and Santa
Cecilia Acatitlán
These two ancient pyramids
located near each other in the
north of Mexico City make it

possible to visit both archeological
sites in a single taxi trip. The
oldest, Tenayuca was built in the
11th century before the Aztecs
arrived in the valley. The pyramid
was enlarged every 52 years, six
times in all, and twin staircases
lead to the temples on the top.
Capilla del Cerrito, Villa de Guadalupe The second pyramid, Santa Cecilia
Acatitlán, dates from 1300–1521,
! Villa de Guadalupe
Mexico’s holiest Catholic
and was used to worship the sun
god Huitzilopochtli and the rain
shrine is dedicated to Our Lady god Tláloc. The temple at the top
of Guadalupe, the beautiful dark- of the pyramid has been carefully
skinned image of the Virgin that and authentically reconstructed,
appeared to Juan Diego in 1531 and visitors can climb the stair-
and left an imprint of her image case to explore the building
on his cloak. The cloak is display- (see p41).
ed in the Nueva Basílica. There
are numerous chapels, basilicas,
and holy sites here, each one $ Museo Dolores Olmedo
Housed in the gracious 17th-
commemorating an aspect of this century Hacienda La Noria is the
holy site. The Basílica Antigua, largest private collection of easel
with its beautiful Baroque façade works by renowned Mexican
and twin towers, housed the artists Diego Rivera and Frida
image of Guadalupe from 1709 Kahlo. Philanthropist Dolores
until the Nueva Basílica was con- Olmedo Patiño was Diego Riv-
secrated in 1976 (see pp30–31). era’s friend, patron, and occas-
ional model, and she collected
@ Plaza de las Tres Culturas

Tlatelolco was the site of the
145 of his works. The Frida Kahlo
collection includes 25 of her
largest Aztec commercial trading works. d "W.ÏYJDP$PM-B/PSJB
center. The Spanish conquist a- 9PDIJNJMDPt.BQ#t
dors destroyed the Aztec pal- tBNoQN5VFo4VOt"EN GSFF5VF
aces, temples, and ceremonial tXXXNVTFPEPMPSFTPMNFEPPSHNY
center making way for the plaza
and the Church of Santiago.
Much of the ruins, including the
main pyramid with its twin
temples, have been excavated.
Modern buildings surround the
plaza, giving rise to the name
which means “plaza of three
cultures,” for the Aztec, colonial,
and modern era structures. d Eje
$FOUSBM3JDBSEP'MPSFT.BHØOt.BQ
#t3VJOTBNoQN5VFo4VOt"ENGSFF Museo Dolores Olmedo
Dolores Olmedo Patiño donated her private art collections and 95

hacienda to Mexico upon her death in 2002
Tlalpan
Located to the south of the
& Parque Nacional Desierto
de los Leones
National University is the old Mexico’s first National Park is a
colonial neighbourhood of Tlalpan. beautiful mountainside forest of
The central plaza with pleasant oak and pine, with numerous
gardens and shady paths is streams and the remains of a

bordered by the pretty 16th- fascinating Carmelite monastery
century Baroque Iglesia de San to explore. The monastery dates
Agustín de las Cuevas, and seve-
from 1611, and the name, “Desert
ral fine restaurants and shops.
The narrow streets are lined with of the Lions,” refers to the biblical
17th- and 18th-century mansions. Elijah who lived isolated in the
wilderness. Beautiful flower
gardens surround the monastery.
% Xochimilco
Gardens
Floating There are many recreational
options, such as hiking and biking
Popular with both locals and trails and on weekends there are
tourists, many come to the float- trail horses for rent. It is a good
ing gardens to glide leisurely in idea to speak with a ranger
trajineras (flat-bottomed barges) before leaving the well-traveled
through the shallow waters of areas of the park, as sometimes
the ancient Aztec canals lined theft is a problem in less popular
with flower festooned nurseries sections. A restaurant housed in
and homes. Decorated with the monastery offers Mexican
brightly colored flower motifs, favorites. d $BNJOPBM%FTJFSUPEFMPT
the barges are available for rent -FPOFTt.BQ"t5BYJt%BJMZBNoQN
by the hour (see pp28–9). t"ENt.POBTUFSZPQFOBNoQN
Tue–Sun
* Parque
Dinamos
Nacional los
Popular with nature lovers, this

wooded expanse borders the
ravine of the Magdalena River.
Favorite activities here include
walking, hiking, and biking.
Parque Ecológico de Xochimilco Horses are often available for
hire on weekends and holidays,
^ Parque Ecológico de
Xochimilco
and there are plenty of picnic
spots. The park also offers the
This 740-acre (300-hectare) park best rock climbing in the area,
was created to help preserve and with walls of varying difficulty
maintain Xochimilco’s canals and reaching as high as 100 ft (30 m).
floating gardens and is protected There are several different rock
by UNESCO. Trajineras provide formations requiring a variety of
boat trips through the natural climbing techniques. Weekends
areas to see native and cultivated and holidays are the best time to
flora and various species of birds; visit. If you plan to explore the
walking paths also curve through less-frequented areas of the park
the park. There is a visitor center, it is advisable that you first
a museum, and shows that speak with one of the park’s
explain how the Aztecs built the rangers. d .BHEBMFOB$POUSFSBTt.BQ
floating islands (see pp28–9). "tBNoQNEBJMZt"ENGSFF
96
( Parroquia de San
Bernardino de Siena
A Walk Through
Colonia Condesa
Flower-filled gardens surround
this graceful church. Ornate Afternoon
doorways lead to one of Take the Turibus TFFQ

Mexico’s last surviving 16th- and get off at stop #3, or
century altarpieces. This magni- take a taxi to Av Michoacán
.BQ'
. This beautiful
ficent retablo has paintings by residential neighborhood
Baltazar de Echave and sculp- has tree-shaded avenues
tures by Luis de Arciniega. A uni- and Art Deco houses, and
que feature of this church is the is a favorite with writers,
pre-Hispanic skulls mounted on artists, and musicians. This
trendy area boasts cafés
the side walls, with a sign remin- that are popular with the
ding parishioners how to make a city’s young professionals.
good confession. d Pino and Violeta, Try La Buena Tierra (see
9PDIJNJMDPt.BQ$t"ENGSFF p99) for excellent organic
fare, or the nearby Mamá
Rosa’s (see p99) for Italo-
Mexican dishes. After
lunch, continue along
Av Michoacán and cross Av
México .BQ)
, entering
the pretty Parque México
TFFQ
and walk to the
Fountain of the Water Jugs
which has a statue of a
nude woman holding two
ceramic jugs with water
flowing from them. Once
part of Mexico’s premier
Museo Diego Rivera Anahuacalli
horse racing track, this oval
park features wide shady
) Museo Diego Rivera

Anahuacalli
paths, lush landscaping,
and beautiful fountains.
Exit the park at the north-
Designed by Diego Rivera to
east corner on to Av
house his spectacular collection México. Continue past the
of thousands of pre-Hispanic lovely 14-story Art Deco
Mexican artifacts, this huge, masterpiece Edificio
black, volcanic rock building incor- Basurto by architect
porates Mayan and Toltec design Francisco J. Serrano and
completed in 1945. Admire
elements. The collection includes the lovely, dome-shaped
figurines from Tlatilco, masks white Art Deco fountain in
from Teotihuacán, and the sculp- Plaza Popocatépetl (Map
tures of four Aztec deities, the )
, designed by José
goddess of corn and the gods of Gómez Echeverría in 1927.
Walk to the right, almost all
wind, fire, and rain. Rivera died the way around the circular
before the building was comp- plaza, exiting on to Av
leted, but his two-story studio is México. Continue on to Av
decorated as he planned to use it. Michoacán, passing Art
Large sketches of some of his Deco buildings and then
head back to the Turibus
murals hang on the walls. d Calle stop where you can have
.VTFP $PM4BO1BCMP5FQFUMBQB dessert or snacks at one of
t.BQ#tt5BYJtBNo the many sidewalk
QN5VFo4VO UJMMQN'SJ
t"ENBMMWJTJUT restaurants.
BSFHVJEFEtXXXBOBIVBDBMMJNVTFPPSH

Left Parque Hundido Right Avenida Insurgentes
Insurgentes Sur
! Avenida Insurgentes
When the university was ^ Polyforum Siqueiros
Conceived and designed by
built in the far south of Mexico the master-muralist David Alfaro
City in the 1950s, this broad Siqueiros, this futuristic building
avenue was created to link it with integrates modern architecture,
the rest of the city. Avenida sculpture, and art forms. It also
Insurgentes today stretches for showcases sculpted murals. d Av
28 miles (45 km) and Insurgentes *OTVSHFOUFT4VS$PM/ÈQPMFTt.BQ
Sur, the southern stretch, is a #ttBNoQNt"EN
happening area. d Map K4 tXXXQPMZGPSVNTJRVFJSPTDPNNY
@ Roma
Colonia Roma, with its & Plaza de Toros México
The largest bull ring in the
tree-lined streets and varied Western Hemisphere, it seats
architecture, was developed in more than 40,000 spectators.
the early 20th century. The area, The top matadors perform on
popular with wealthy residents, Sunday afternoons from Nov-
is known for its contemporary art ember through February.
galleries and cafés. d Map G4 d "VHVTUP3PEJOt
tXXXMBNFYJDPDPN
£ Casa Lamm
This popular culture center,
* Estadio Azul
bookstore, art gallery, and restau- The 39,000-seat stadium is
rant is housed in a 1911-mansion. home to one of Mexico City’s
d Av Álvaro Obregón 99, Col Romat.BQ most popular soccer clubs,
,tt"SU(BMMFSZBNoQN Cementeros de Cruz Azul.
EBJMZ #PPLTUPSFBNoQN.POo4BU d *OTVSHFOUFT4VSBU)PMCFJO
BNoQN4VOtXXXMBNNDPNNY $PM/ÈQPMFTtXXXDSV[B[VMDPNNY
$ Condesa
Colonia Condesa, with plea- ( Parque Hundido
This park with flower gard-
sant, tree-lined streets and parks, ens, fountains, pine trees, and
is home to many writers, artists, walking paths lined with replicas
musicians, and other creative of pre-Hispanic sculpture, is a
people. There are also many neighborhood favorite TFFQ
.
trendy restaurants here. d .BQ'
% World Trade Center ) Universidad Nacional

Autónoma de México
This glass skyscraper has a Latin America’s largest university
revolving restaurant, Bellini, TFF is also known for its modern
p99) on the 45th floor. d .POUFDJUP architecture and exceptional
$PM/ÈQPMFTttXXX murals on the facades of several
UPSSFXUDDPN buildings TFFQ
.
98
Price Categories

Left Mamá Rosa’s
Places to Eat
! Bellini
Enjoy fine dining in elegant ^ Specia
Specia serves Polish and
surroundings with international Eastern European cuisine.
cuisine, including entrées such Specialties at this restaurant
as Canadian lobster and TQBHIF include roast duck, excellent
UUJDBSUPDDJP. d 8PSME5SBEF$FOUFS goulash, wild mushroom soup,
.POUFDJUP $PM/ÈQPMFTtt and blinis. d "NTUFSEBN $PM
XXXCFMMJOJDPNNYt $POEFTBt.BQ)tt
@ LaThisBuena Tierra
popular café offers many & Tecla
Sample innovative appetizers
organic foods and fresh juices, such as squash flowers stuffed
plus creative fish, chicken, and with goat cheese and served
vegetarian entrées. d "UMJYDP$PM with DIJQPUMF sauce at this
$POEFTBt.BQ(ttXXX restaurant. Entrées include
MBCVFOBUJFSSBDPNt Roquefort steak and trout. d Av
%VSBOHP" $PM3PNBt.BQ)t
£ This Italo-Mexican restaurant

Mamá Rosa’s t
offers a wide range of standard

dishes as well as creative ones * Contramar
Casual bright decor and fresh
such as Jumping Jack Flash GBKJUBT seafood prepared with a refined
and BSSBDIFSBSelena. d "UMJYDP flourish make Contramar a highly
$PM$POEFTBt.BQ(t popular choice. d %VSBOHP $PM
tXXXNBNBSPTBTDPNt 3PNBt.BQ)tto
QN3FTFSWBUJPOTSFDPNNFOEFEt
$ Don Asado
Fire-roasted Uruguayan

meats and wood fired pizzas are

the specialty at this popular café. ( Litoral
Litoral serves good Mexican
d .JDIPBDÈO $PM$POEFTBt.BQ( cuisine such as crab tacos, onion
ttXXXEPOBTBEPDPNt soup, and salmon. d #5BNBVMJQBT
$PM$POEFTBt.BQ(t
EC
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% This cozy restau-

Matisse
Chapultepec
Sevilla AV C
H AP tXXX
SFTUBVSBOUFMJUPSBMDPNt
SA LA M
rant serves European Roma

AN CA
ÓN
NGO
D U RA
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cuisine. Try the baked

) Bistrot Mosaico
O
EV
VE
ÁLVA RO
L ÁN
NU
RA
chicken in blackberry CR AV
Try some of the
Z AT
UZ
A
YU
ID
CA
EN
MA
TÁ N
Parque
AV
sauce and duck à la JU A

excellent French food
AV
N España
ESC
U T IA
SU R
blueberry. d "NTUFSEBN Hipódromo

served at this bistro.
TE S
$PM$POEFTBt.BQ) d.JDIPBDÈO $PM

RG EN
Parque
Mexico
SU
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ttXXX $POEFTBt.BQ(t
LI P
AV IN
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Recommend your favorite restaurant on traveldk.com 99

STREETSMART
Planning Your Trip
102
Getting to Mexico City

103
Getting Around
104
Things to Avoid
105
Budget Tips
106
Etiquette
107
Security and Health
108
Banking and
Communications
109
Shopping Tips
110
Eating and
Accommodation Tips
111
Places to Stay
112–117
Streetsmart
Left Mexico City, a welcoming place for children Right Tourist information kiosk
Planning Your Trip

! Visitor Centers
Before arriving, check
before travel. A passport
is the most reliable
Directory
the website for the identification. Citizens Secretariat of
Secretariat of Tourism returning to the US will Tourism (Federal) –
(Federal) and the Virtual need a valid passport or SECTUR
Guide. After arrival, stop other accepted official ID. Av Presidente Masarik
by one of the offices or $PM1PMBODPt

kiosks of Departamento
de Turismo del Districto ^ Insurance
Obtain travel and
tXXXTFDUVS
HPCNY
Federal for information. medical insurance before
arriving in Mexico. If you Virtual Guides
XXXNFYJDPDJUZDPN
@ Media
Current events and
are entering Mexico by
car, you must carry NY XXXNFYJDPDJUZ
cultural programs are Mexican auto insurance. HPCNY
listed in the weekly Infotour
Tiempo Libre. The
biweekly DF por Travesías & When to Go
Mexico City is a
tIPVS&OHMJTI
language information
covers clubs, bars, and year-round destination.
Visitor Center
restaurants. The English March and early April are
Mexico City Airport,
daily The Herald, is also particularly beautiful. National Arrivals
available in newsstands. tXXX
* What to Take NFYJDPDJUZHPCNY
£ Internet
Many hotels offer
Conservative
city-casual clothing is Visitor Center
Internet access either at suitable for most Zona Rosa
a business center or in occasions. Mexicans do Paseo de la Reforma
s/n, next to Angel de la
the hotel lobby while not wear shorts though.
Independencia
some also offer direct Try to avoid carrying
access from the rooms. high-priced items. Visitor Center
Many tourist areas have Centro Histórico
Next to the Catedral
Internet cafés.
( How Long to Stay
A week is ideal, Metropolitana
$ Maps
The Visitor Centers
allowing three to four
days to explore the
Visitor Center
Bellas Artes
distribute an excellent, Centro Histórico and the Av Juárez and Angela
free Mexico City Tourist museums in Bosque de Peralta
Map. Both Spanish and Chapultepec. Two days
Visitor Center
English versions are are best for exploring Bosque de
available. Guía Roji also Coyoacán, San Ángel, Chapultepec
has good city maps. and Xochimilco. Allow a In front of the Museo
full day for Teotihuacán. Nacional de
% Visas and
Identification
Antropología
Citizens of North America ) Traveling

Children
with
Visitor Center
Coyoacán
and many countries in Children must have proof
Casa Municipal, Plaza
Europe and Latin America of citizenship. If the child Hidalgo 1
do not need a visa. is traveling alone or with
Tourist permits should be just one parent, carry Visitor Center
obtained at the border. notarized letters of Xochimilco
Entry requirements are permission from the /VFWP&NCBSDBEFSP
prone to change so check absent parent.
102 Preceding pages Trajineras, Xochimilco Floating Gardens

Streetsmart
Aeropuerto Internacional Benito Juárez
Getting to Mexico City

! By Air
Many North, Central,
and white, and they are
safer than regular taxis.
tXXXVOPDPNNY
d(SFZIPVOE
and South American as tXXXHSFZIPVOE
well as European airlines
have flights to the city. ^ Driving into
Mexico City
DPNNY
d Aeropuerto Internacional
#FOJUP+VÈSF[t
There are excellent
highways leading into ( Bus Terminals
There are four main
tXXXBTBHPCNY Mexico City. Mexico 15-D, bus terminals. Terminal
57-D, and 85-D are the Central de Autobuses del
Arriving main toll roads from the Norte serves northern
@ Stop at immigration north and west. Mexico destinations, Terminal
to fill out a form to obtain 95-D and 150-D enter Central de Autobuses Sur
a Tourist Card. It can be from the south and east. serves south, Terminal de
valid for 60–180 days. These are the fastest and Autobuses de Pasajeros
most direct routes, and de Oriente serves east,
£ Getting
City
into the the toll roads (signified by
the D) have less traffic. In
and Terminal de
Autobuses del Poniente
Travelers with luggage, other roads, traffic is serve the west. d Terminal
on a tight schedule, or almost always very heavy. Central de Autobuses del
who want the safest /PSUF"W$JFO.FUSPT
choice should take a pre-
paid airport taxi. There is & Train
The once-excellent
td Terminal
Central de Autobuses Sur:
a Metro stop at the passenger train system "W5BYRVF×Bt
airport, but luggage is in Mexico is no longer d Terminal de
not permitted onboard. operational. Currently no Autobuses de Pasajeros de
passenger trains connect Oriente: Ignacio Zaragoza
$ Metro
If you have little
to Mexico City. td Terminal
de Autobuses del Poniente:
luggage, the Metro is an
option. Follow the signs * Bus
Buses are the most
3ÓP5BDVCBZB $PM3FBM
EFM.POUFt
to station Terminal Aérea popular way to travel
which is on Metro line 5.
If you are heading
between cities. First class
buses have comfortable ) Rental Cars
The major rental car
downtown, take the train seats, videos, and make companies have booths at
to the Pantitlán station fewer stops. Ticket Bus the airport. It is almost
and switch to line 1. has a central reservations always cheaper to book a
Depending on your final system for major bus car before arriving in
destination you may need companies. ETN, with Mexico. Driving in the city
to switch lines again. services to north-central is challenging; you can
Check the map at the Mexico, and UNO, with consider hiring a car with
terminal before boarding. services to Oaxaca, a driver or using hotel and
Chiapas, Veracruz, and the sitio taxis (licensed and
% Taxi
If you are using a
southeast, are the luxury
bus operators. Greyhound
regulated taxis). You must
obey the Hoy No Circula
taxi, purchase your pre- offers bus trips to major law, introduced to curb
paid fare from a booth of US cities. d Ticket Bus: pollution, which says that
the Transportación one day a week, based on
Terrestre. Rates are set tXXXUJDLFUCVTDPNNY the last digit of the
by zone, and are for the d&5/t vehicle license plate, the
taxi not per person. The XXXFUODPNNYd UNO: car cannot be driven in
airport taxis are yellow Greater Mexico City.
Highly adept pickpockets and thieves hang around the airport and 103
Metro, so watch your belongings carefully
Streetsmart
Left Metro subway car Right Turibus
Getting Around
! Metro
The Metro subway
accessible by walking,
bus tours, or using the
EBJMZtQFTPTd Paseo
QPS$PZPBDÈO"W)JEBMHP
system is clean, efficient, Turibus is to hire a car BU$BMMF"MMFOEFt
cheap, and easy-to-use and driver by the hour. tBNoQNEBJMZ
(see backflap). During The price varies by the tQFTPT
rush hour it is extremely services provided, but
crowded. Some cars are
then set aside for women
drivers will wait while
you explore, accompany * Walking
Walking, during the
and children. d 5am– you into markets, and day, is a great way to
midnight Mon–Fri, 6am– drive to places that explore many of the
midnight Sat, 7am–midnight would be difficult to get popular sites. In Centro
4VOtQFTPTQFSSJEF to any other way. d "CPVU Histórico it is quicker to
tXXXNFUSPEGHPCNY 100–350 pesos per hour walk between sites. The
monuments along Paseo
@ Buses, Peseros,
Metrobus % Turibus
For a daily fee you
de la Reforma is best
viewed by walking its
Mexico City has a vast, can hop on and off the length. Coyoacán, San
confusing, and poorly bus all day long at 28 Ángel, Polanco, and
marked bus system that stops, conveniently Bosque de Chapultepec
covers most of the city. located close to the major are all great for walking.
Routes and numbers attractions in Centro Take care while crossing
change frequently, there Histórico, along Paseo de roads.
are buses of different la Reforma, through
sizes, and the signs on
the buses are often
Bosque de Chapultepec,
Polanco, Condesa, and ( Tours
Many hotels have
incorrect. d 5am–10pm Zona Rosa. d affiliated travel agencies
EBJMZt"CPVUQFTPT tBNoQNEBJMZ QNo1am that arrange tours to the
depending on the bus size Zócalo, Chapultepec, PolBO most popular sites and
and the distance traveled DP
tXXXUVSJCVTDPNNY usually feature bilingual
guides. Nightlife tours
£ Taxi
There are three types ^ Turibus South and
Teotihuacán
typically include dinner, a
show, and stop at Plaza
of taxi services. Roving Trips to the ancient city of Garibaldi. Sunday tours to
cabs are hailed on the Teotihuacán on Turibus bullfights are also
street but these are not include admission, guided organized TFFQQo
.
recommended. Taxis from tour of the archeological d .BMMPSDB5SBWFM"HFODZ
a sitio stand are safer. zone, and snacks as well 1BTFPEFMB3FGPSNB
Hotel taxis are the most as transportation. d )PUFM4FWJMMB1BMBDFt
reliable and the driver 1360 tBNGSPN"VEJUPSJP tXXXWJBKFTNBMMPSDB
often speaks English. /BDJPOBM BNGSPN DPNNY
Some taxis are metered, ;ØDBMPEBJMZt"EVMU
and others charge a flat
fare. d 4JUJP5BYJ4FSWJDF
pesos, children 300 pesos
) Car
Driving in Mexico
4FSWJUBYJt
d 4JUJP5BYJ4FSWJDF & Trolleybus
The trolleybus offers
City’s poorly marked maze
of one way streets makes
3BEJP5BYJt narrated tours in Spanish, navigation tricky. The )PZ
and provides a good No Circula law, introduced
$ Car with Driver
A good, time-efficient
introduction to the major
sites. d Tranvía Turístico
to curb vehicular pollution,
is strictly enforced.
option for seeing parts of $VMUVSBM"W+VÈSF[ d XXXNFYJDPDJUZDPN
the city not readily ttBNoQN NYOPDJSDVMBIUNM
104 Pay for Metro and bus tickets with loose pocket change and avoid
showing a wallet or cash
Streetsmart
Left Tourists wearing hats in the sun Center Traffic snarls Right Street food stall
Things to Avoid
! Driving
City
in Mexico
% Turista Pollution
Some travelers take a * Air pollution can pose
Avoid driving anywhere in few days to adjust to the a health risk in Mexico
greater Mexico City local foods and may get City, especially for the
during rush hours. Also, turista. Nausea, diarrhea, elderly, young children,
never leave any of your stomach cramps, and a and people with heart or
valuables in a parked car. light fever are the respiratory problems. The
symptoms. If it occurs, city is located in a large
@ Street Crime
Pickpockets and purse
drink plenty of bottled
water, and eat bland, well-
valley surrounded by high
mountains with thermal
or camera snatching are cooked food for a while. inversions, which often
the most common threats Symptoms should trap pollutants. Smoking
and can occur anywhere. disappear within a few is prohibited in indoor
Avoid wearing expensive days. But if not, consult a public places, but there
jewelry and leave your doctor. In the initial days are some exceptions.
valuables in a hotel safe. after arriving in Mexico Fines are steep so check
Stick to the main tourist City it helps to eat before lighting up.
streets when walking, and moderately and avoid
avoid walking at night.
Use hotel or sitio taxis for
highly spiced and
unfamiliar foods. ( Watch Your Step
Mexico City was built
evening transportation. on an old lake bed, and
^ Sunburn and everywhere you go you
£ Street Taxi
Never use a street
Dehydration
The sun is intense in the
will see buildings that
have sunk below street
taxi for transportation. high altitudes of Mexico level, and many that are
Rather use hotel or sitio City, and it is a good idea tilting as well. The city
taxis. A high proportion to apply sunscreen and has also experienced
of violent crimes against wear a broad brimmed severe earthquakes,
tourists results from sunhat for protection. which have left uneven
using roving taxis. Wear sunglasses for your streets and sidewalks in
eyes. Dehydration is a many places. Watch your
$ Food and Water
The tap water in
common problem, and it
is important to carry
step while you walk.
Mexico City should not

be consumed. Some of
bottled water with you
and drink liquids regularly. ) Weather and
Temperature
the high-quality hotels Changes
have their own water-
filtration systems. Many & Altitude Sickness
Mexico City is at
Most tourists will notice
minor weather changes,
higher-priced restaurants 7,350 ft (2,240 m) above with cool mornings and
use filtered or bottled sea level, and if you are nights that require a
water. In casual or lower- arriving from a much jacket. Rain storms can
priced restaurants only lower altitude, you should occur in the afternoon at
drink bottled beverages allow a few days before any time of the year, and
without ice. Avoid street engaging in strenuous an umbrella or rain jacket
food in general, but in activity. If you have will be useful. In winters
particular food that is not symptoms such as make sure either your
freshly cooked and headaches or shortness hotel is heated or that it
served hot, or that uses of breath, it helps to drink provides extra blankets. In
uncooked greens such as plenty of water and be summers you will want
lettuce and cilantro moderate in the use of either an air conditioned
(coriander). coffee, tea, and alcohol. room or a good fan.
Rush hour in Mexico City is from about 8–10am and 3–7pm on 105
weekdays
Streetsmart
Left Band playing live at the Zócalo Right Guide explaining architecture to tourists
Budget Tips
! Airline Deals
The best prices are % Entertainment
and Attractions
4pm, at one of the many
restaurants serving a
obtained by comparison Several of Mexico City’s comida corrida (fixed-
shopping, and the Internet top attractions are free, priced menu).
is a great source for including the Palacio
checking ticket prices for
various airlines. If you are
Nacional (see pp16–17),
Catedral Metropolitana ) Location
When choosing a
flying within the country (see pp14–15), and a few hotel consider the
after your arrival in Mexico of the attractions in transportation method
City, check Mexican Bosque de Chapultepec you plan to use within
airlines for reduced rate (see pp24–5). All of the the city to reduce your
advance purchase churches, parks, and traveling costs.
coupons, but you must plazas have free entry.
purchase them before Directory
arriving in Mexico.
^ Tours and Guides
Hiring a guide or Airlines
Package Deals joining a tour that • Aeroméxico: 5133-
@ When shopping for includes transportation 4000; www.aero
the best airfares, check will often save a lot of mexico.com
the websites for time and trouble, and • Mexicana: 5448-0990;
packages that include sometimes money as www.mexicana.com
accommodations as well. well, especially if you are • Air Canada:
Rates will likely be higher not fluent in Spanish. www.aircanada.com
during Christmas, Easter, • Air France:
www.airfrance.com
and the summer months.
Some hotels offer deals & Public
Transportation • American Airlines:
that include city tours or Sitio taxis are reasonably www.aa.com
tickets to events. safe and are also cheaper • British Airways: www.
than hotel taxis. The britishairways.com
• Continental:
£ Hotel Discounts
Room rates fluctuate
Turibus (see p104) is less
expensive than cabs if www.continental.com
depending on time of you are visiting sites it Travel Websites
year and if festivals or covers. The Metro (see • www.airline
conventions are being p104) also offers cheap, consolidator.com
held. Business hotels in efficient, and quite an
Mexico City often offer extensive service. Best Fares
good rates for weekends, • www.bestfares.com
and some hotels in
Centro Histórico offer * Free Events
Every Sunday evening
Cheap Tickets
• www.cheap
discounts as well. Mid- Mexico City’s Cultural
tickets.com
range and budget hotels Institute presents free
• www.exitotravel.com
may offer discount for concerts of Mexican
• www.expedia.com
cash payments. talent at the Zócalo. For
• www.hotwire.com
information on other such
• www.orbitz.com
$ Free Museum Day
Many museums offer
events see Tiempo Libre
(see p102) and check the
• www.priceline.com
• www.travelocity.com
free admission either on mexicocity website.
Sunday or Tuesday. Some Free Events
museums offer special
discounts to students ( Restaurants
Save money by
• www.mexicocity.
gob.mx
and teachers with ID. having lunch, from 2pm–
106
Streetsmart
Left Spanish-English dictionaries Right Tourist taking a photograph of a mariachi
Etiquette
! Courtesy Service
Courtesy is important $ Many Mexicans will & Public Toilets
Public toilets are not
in Mexico City, and even offer a personal service common in the city, but
a simple, buenos días in exchange for a small most sit-down
(good morning), or fee, and there are times restaurants have clean
buenas tardes (good when you may want to bathrooms for their
afternoon), is much utilize these services. customers. Many public
appreciated. The Mexican Hotel and sitio taxi bathrooms have an
communication style is drivers can accompany attendant and you pay a
lengthy and indirect; you into markets if you few pesos to enter; be
losing your temper or ask them to, wait while certain to take the toilet
complaining about a you visit an attraction, or paper they hand out.
situation often makes pick you up at a specified
people less inclined to
help you out.
time – all for a
reasonable charge. * Time
Mexico City is in the
Central Standard Time
@ Friendly
Helpful
and
% Attire
In Mexico City people
Zone, which is 6 hours
behind Greenwich Mean
Mexicans are friendly and dress conservatively; Time. Although Mexico
helpful, especially if you they wear very little City has a reputation for
make an attempt to ask jewelry, and do not wear not being punctual, most
questions in Spanish. shorts or sandals. They people in tourism and in
However, they also do are tolerant of other business are prompt with
not like to say “no”, so styles of attire; however, appointments.
they will often respond to women traveling alone
a question by giving an
answer even if they are
will do well to dress
conservatively when out ( Tipping
A tip of 10% is
not certain. When in public to avoid standard in restaurants,
seeking directions, ask unwanted attention. but check your bill first as
several people. Most some restaurants add a
employees take their
own job responsibilities ^ Single Women
Mexican machismo is
service charge to the
total. For porters and
seriously and will seldom very common in the city, bellhops, 10 pesos per
bend the rules or make and can be both a benefit bag is enough. Taxi
any exceptions. and a hassle for the drivers are tipped if they
single woman traveling provide a special service.
£ Language
Many Mexicans
alone. On the plus side,
men will assist you if you
For tour guides, a tip of
50 or more pesos for
speak a few words of are in difficulty and male four hours is usual.
English, especially tour guides may pay you
college and high school
students, but it helps to
more attention. You can
minimize advances by ) Photography
Mexicans are
know some basic dressing conservatively generally tolerant
phrases for use at and avoiding eye contact. towards photographers
restaurants, with sitio However, if you are still taking pictures, but it is
taxis, and getting around. approached a simple “no” always polite to ask first.
Pick up some useful and a shake of the head Some people will request
Spanish phrases (see is often enough. Taking a a small payment, and
p126–7) and carry a seat will lessen the risk many indigenous people
handy Spanish-English of unwanted attention on will refuse to have their
dictionary. a crowded Metro. picture taken.

Streetsmart
Left Mexican Tourist Police Center Hospital Right Logo of a pharmacy store chain
Security and Health

! Embassies
Consulates
and
% Police Pharmacies
When approached by ) The largest and most
International visitors who the police be polite, commonly found
lose a passport or have remain calm, and explain pharmacies in Mexico
any similar emergency, that you are a tourist. If City are Farmacias del
should contact their a policeman asks for a Ahorro and Fenix.
embassy immediately. bribe call your embassy
immediately. Directory
@ Keeping
Documents Safe Stay Alert Embassies
Before leaving home, ^ Mexico City does t"VTUSBMJB
make photocopies of all have crime; however, if www.mexico.embassy.
your important travel you stay alert and take HPWBV
papers, including your some simple precautions t$BOBEB
passport and visa, as well you should be fine. Stay XXXEGBJUNBFDJHDDB
as the numbers of credit on the main tourist NFYJDPDJUZ
cards and the serial streets when walking, t64"
numbers of travelers’ dress conservatively, and XXXVTFNCBTTZ
checks. Keep them in a avoid carrying or wearing NFYJDPHPW
safe place in your hotel. anything that appears to t#SJUBJO
be valuable. Be cautious www.britishembassy.
HPWVL
£ Crime
Mexico City has a
while using an ATM.
Banks
relatively high level of
street crime, and it is & Safety
Be especially careful
t##7"#BODPNFS

important to be vigilant at at night, and for transport t#BOBNFY
all times. It is best to use use a hotel taxi or sitio
ATM machines in safe taxi rather than walking Lost Cards and
locations during the day. or using any other means Travelers’ Checks
Leave surplus valuables of public transportation. t"NFSJDBO&YQSFTT
in the hotel safe. Walk
t.BTUFS$BSE
around the city on foot
only in daylight hours. * Public Restrooms
Public restrooms,
Stick to the streets referred to as baños or t7JTB
frequented by tourists. sanitarios, which are
clean and hygienic can be
Emergencies
$ Emergencies
In the case of an
found in mid- to large-
size restaurants, the
t5PVSJTU1SPUFDUJPO
"HFODZ 4&$563

emergency it is probably lobby area of large
t"NCVMBODF
best to try and contact hotels, and in major
t1PMJDF
your embassy first. The museums and tourist
t.JTTJOHQFSTPOPS
Mexico City Tourist attractions.
DBS
Protection Agency will
also help with
emergencies and they ( Medical Care
For basic medical and
Medical Care
t)PTQJUBM"#$
have staff who speak dental needs, ask your
English. If you cannot hotel or embassy for t.FYJDBO3FE$SPTT
reach an English help. One of the best
speaking operator, call hospitals in Mexico City
Pharmacies
the SECTUR 24-hour is the Hospital ABC, with
XXXGBIPSSPDPNNY
Hotline for help. staff speaking in English.
108 Notify your credit card companies of your travel dates and ask
them for telephone numbers that work from Mexico
Streetsmart
Left A courier office Center Mexican phone card Right Telmex logo
Banking and Communications

! Exchange
The airport is a good
banks and currency
exchange offices will * Internet
Public access to the
place to exchange foreign cash them. d "NFSJDBO Internet is quite easy to
currency for pesos. The &YQSFTT1BTFPEFMB find, and is available in
exchange rate at a $BTB 3FGPSNB" BU-BODBTUFS the lobby or in the
EF$BNCJP (foreign t business center of many
exchange booths) may be tBNoQN hotels. Ask at the front
better or worse than .POo'SJ BNoQN4BU desk for the nearest
what the major branches location. Some hotels
of large banks offer.
% Credit Cards
Visa and MasterCard,
provide wireless
networks, while others
@ ATMs
ATM machines are
and to a lesser extent
American Express, are
offer data access lines.
Always learn the rates
readily available the most accepted cards before using the
throughout the city, and in Mexico. Most high-end services. Internet cafés
are usually available 24 restaurants, large hotels, can be found throughout
hours a day and seven rental-cars, and high-end the city and generally
days a week. However, it tourist shops will accept charge about 25 pesos
is always a good idea to credit cards. Some hotels an hour.
withdraw money during offer discounts for cash,
daylight hours and at an
off-street machine in a
while others will add a
surcharge to the amount ( Post Office
The Mexican post
bank or department store if paid by credit card. office can be slow with
for reasons of safety. the delivery of mail or
^ Telephone packages. It is much
£ Banks
Banamex and BBVA
The country code for
Mexico is 52, and the
safer and more reliable to
use a courier service.
Bancomer are the two area code for Mexico Many hotels sell stamps
largest banks in Mexico. City is 55. Within the city for letters and post cards,
There are also numerous the important dialing and will also post them.
foreign banks in the city. codes are 040 for
Hours are generally 9am–
4pm weekdays, and
information and 090 for
an international English ) Courier Services
For shipping
many banks are open on speaking operator. important documents
Saturdays from 9am– and parcels a courier
2pm. It is best to visit a
bank in the morning as & Phone Cards
Most payphones in
service is the best option
to use. There are several
some services, including Mexico City require a to choose from, including
currency exchange, are prepaid phone card, known Federal Express, DHL,
only available until 2pm. as a Ladatel Card, issued Estafeta, AeroMexpress,
by the main telephone and United Parcel Service
$ Travelers’ Checks
Although travelers’
company, Telmex. Avail-
able in denominations of
(UPS). They will pick-up
packages from your
checks are one of the 30, 50, and 100 pesos, premises with 24 hours
safest ways to carry they can be purchased at advance notice. d 'FEFSBM
cash, very few places in newsstands, pharmacies, &YQSFTTXXXGFEFYDPN
Mexico City accept them. and grocery stores. The d%)-XXXEIMDPN
American Express phones are generally d&TUBGFUBXXXFTUBGFUB
travelers’ checks in US very easy to find along DPNd"FSP.FYQSFTT
currency are the best the street as well as in XXXBFSPNFYQSFTTDPN
choice, and most large gas and Metro stations. NYd614XXXVQTDPN
The symbol for the peso, the unit of currency in Mexico, is $; this 109
is divided into 100 centavos
Streetsmart
Left Mexican handicrafts on display Right A Mexico City market
Shopping Tips
! Shopping Hours
Department stores
one of the most popular
shopping districts in the & Museum Stores
Mexico City’s
and shopping malls are city, especially with museums offer some of
generally open from tourists. The chic, high- the most interesting
10am–7pm Monday end fashion boutiques shops in the city. The
through Saturday. Art are primarily located merchandise reflects the
galleries are generally along Avenida Presidente museums’ collections,
open on Sundays, but Masarik in Polanco and and selections vary from
closed on Mondays and also along Altavista CDs and books about
some of them require Street in San Ángel. performing arts at the
advance appointments. Palacio de Bellas Artes
Boutique stores usually
open at 10am, but may % Art Galleries
Art galleries are
(see pp22–3), to prints of
Frida Kahlo’s famous
close from about 1pm to found in many parts of works at Museo Frida
3pm, and then reopen. Mexico City. Polanco is Kahlo (see p89).
best known for its high-
@ Paying and
Bargaining
end galleries and design
studios, while Zona Rosa * Souvenirs
One of the best
High end storefronts, offers a mix of fine art places to shop for
department stores, and galleries and antique Mexican handicrafts and
most boutiques do not shops which also offer a souvenirs is at Mercado
entertain bargaining. But huge variety of art. de Artesanías de la
bargaining certainly is d www.arte-mexico.com Ciudadela (see p53).
part of the experience of Across from the Zócalo,
shopping in the
mercados, or markets. ^ Department
Stores and
along Monte de Piedad,
many fine silver shops
How much to bargain for Shopping Malls offer jewelry in a range
varies by market and by There are two major of tempting prices.
vendor. The best is to department store chains
simply decide what the
item is worth to you, and
in Mexico City – El
Palacio de Hierro, an ( Mexican Crafts
Mexican handicrafts
bargain accordingly. upscale department store can be found at Fonart
chain, that specializes in (see p78), Museo de
Mercados designer clothing, and Artes Popular (see p70),
£ Mercados, or markets, Liverpool which offers a Arte Mexicano Para el
are the traditional wide range of mid-priced Mundo (see p72), and
shopping venues for products and clothing. Mercado de Artesanías de
Mexicans, and they are Antara Polanco is a la Ciudadela (see p53).
still the most fascinating fashionable shopping Victor Artes Populares is
places to shop. Most center. Centro Santa Fé, for the serious collector.
neighborhoods have one with more than 300 d Victor Artes Populares,
or more mercados. Even stores is the largest SEnPPS "W.BEFSPt
if you are not shopping for shopping center in toQN
anything, walking through Mexico. d El Palacio de Mon–Fri
a market is an excellent Hiero: www.palaciodehierro.
cultural experience. com.mx d Liverpool: www.
liverpool.com.mx d Antara ) Religious Art
The gift shop at the
$ Boutiques
During the day, Zona
Polanco: Av Moliére and Av
Ejército Nacional, Col
Villa de Guadalupe (see
pp30–31) is a great place
Rosa, with its many Polanco d Centro Santa Fé: to find a huge collection
clothing boutiques, is Av Vasco de Quiroga of religious art.
110
Streetsmart
Left Many hotels have in-house tour agencies Right Comida
Eating and Accommodations Tips

! Restaurant Types
Mexican street food $ Dinner
Traditionally dinner
issues. On the other
hand you are sometimes
is found near every was a very light meal of rushed around sights.
Metro station, in the a sweet bread and hot Make sure that the guide
markets, and on busy chocolate. Churros, fried speaks your language.
street corners. The small dough pastry coated with
restaurants known as
taquerías offer the same
sugar, and hot chocolate
remain a favorite evening * Hotel Fitness
Facilities
type of food as the street snack. Many Mexicans If exercising is important
vendors, but generally now have a large evening for you, make sure you
with higher hygienic meal and plenty of understand what facilities
standards. Fondas are restaurants offer full the hotel has when you
small cafés that offer dinner menus. make your reservations.
comida, a fixed-menu Many of the high-end
lunch. Cantinas are
popular in the evening as % Tipping and Taxes
In restaurants it is
hotels either have their
own facilities or can
they serve food as well traditional to tip 10–15 make arrangements for
as liquor. Restaurants percent of the total you to use other facilities
come in all sizes and amount, but some places close to the hotel.
price ranges, from include the tip in the
modest cafés to chic five-
star restaurants.
total. A value added tax
of 15 percent is added to ( Getting
Rate
the Best
services, goods, and Hotel rates are often

@ Breakfast
Desayuno (breakfast),
hotels. In addition, hotels
add a further 2 percent
negotiable, especially if
you are flexible regarding
is traditionally a large accommodations tax. your dates of stay. Many
meal of huevos (eggs), business hotels are busy
served in a variety of
ways. Most egg dishes ^ Hotel Taxis
Hotel taxis are the
during the week, but
offer great discounts for
come with a heavy spicy easiest and most weekend stays. Some
red or green sauce convenient-to-use taxi hotels will give discounts
(salsa) and are usually service. They can be hired if you pay in cash rather
served with refried beans by the trip, by the hour, or than by credit card.
and hot tortillas. Chorizo for all day. The drivers
is a popular sausage.
Lighter breakfasts feature
associated with high-end
hotels speak English and ) Camping
There are two
pan dulce, a sweet Spanish, are sometimes campgrounds located just
bread, or bolillos which certified tourist guides, outside Greater Mexico
are a European-style roll. and can take you on City. Both have facilities
personalized tours of your for RVs and tents. Pepe’s
£ Lunch
Comida, or lunch, is
choice of city attractions.
Negotiate the rates before
(see p117) in Tepotzotlán,
to the northwest of the
the large meal of the day. boarding the taxi. city, offers camping in an
Lunch is a relaxed affair in-town walled hacienda-
with friends, and can
often last for hours. & Hotel Tours
Hotel tours can be a
like campground. To the
north of the city is
Many restaurants offer a fun way to see the city Teotihuacán Trailer Park
daily comida corrida and meet other travelers, offering camping facilities.
special, often featuring and they alleviate a lot of d Teotihuacán Trailer Park,
several courses and at an the transportation López Mateos 17, San Juan
excellent price. hassles and logistics t


Streetsmart
Left María Isabel Sheraton Center Hotel Gran Meliá Right Staircase, Embassy Suites
Luxury Hotels
! Hotel Four
Seasons $ Marquis Reforma
Subtle and serene,
fitted with dark wood
furnishings. d Paseo
This modern Neo- this low-rise pink granite EFMB3FGPSNB .FYJDP
Classical hotel is known and glass luxury hotel is $JUZt.BQ.t
for its service, modern done up in Art Deco style tXXX
comfort, and close and offers excellent HSBONFMJBNFYJDPSFGPSNB
proximity to the Museo service. It is located DPNt
Nacional de Antropología. between Zona Rosa and
The hotel has a
breathtaking eight-story
Bosque de Chapultepec.
d 1BTFPEFMB3FGPSNB * JW Marriott
This sophisticated
central courtyard garden $PM$VBVIUÏNPDt.BQ/ high-rise hotel has
and fountain. d Paseo de ttXXX spacious guestrooms in
la Reforma 500, Col Juárez NBSRVJTSFGPSNBDPN European style decor,
t.BQ(t t warm colors, and high-
tXXXGPVSTFBTPOTDPN speed Internet. Located
NFYJDPt
% Nikko Mexico
Sleek and spacious,
close to Bosque de
Chapultepec.
Camino Real this 38-story hotel in d "OESÏT#FMMP $PM
@ Mexico City Polanco offers inviting 1PMBODPt.BQ$t
This modern resort-hotel guestrooms with modern tXXXNBSSJPUUDPN
designed by Mexican decor. Close to the NYt
architect Ricardo museums in Bosque de
Legorreta is conveniently
located just off Paseo de
Chapultepec, the hotel
offers tennis courts, and ( Presidente
InterContinental
la Reforma. It has a a driving range for This 42-story high-rise
collection of works by golfers. d $BNQPT&MÓTFPT overlooks Bosque de
Tamayo, Siqueiros, and $PM1PMBODPt.BQ2 Chapultepec in trendy
others. The hotel offers a ttXXX Polanco. Excellent
modern gym, swimming IPUFMOJLLPNFYJDPDPNNY restaurants offer a choice
pool, and sauna. t of New York steakhouse,
d .BSJBOP&TDPCFEP fine Mexican cuisine,
$PM/VFWB"O[VSFTt.BQ
'ttXXX ^W
The hotel has a
great Italian food, or
casual French bistro
DBNJOPSFBMDPNNFYJDP contemporary design and dining. d $BNQPT&MÓTFPT
t the decor is tastefully $PM1PMBODPt.BQ,
elegant although accented ttXXX
£ María Isabel
Sheraton
in pulsating red. The hotel
features the Away Spa
JOUFSDPOUJOFOUBMDPN
t
This is a classic high-rise and Fitness Center, and is
hotel with an expansive
marble lobby, friendly
within walking distance of
Bosque de Chapultepec. ) Embassy Suites
This glass fronted
service, and an excellent d $BNQPT&MÓTFPT $PM high-rise hotel on Paseo
location directly across 1PMBODPt de la Reforma offers
from the Monumento a la tXXXXIPUFMTDPN tasteful design, excellent
Independencia with its NFYJDPDJUZt service, and exceptional
golden angel. d Paseo amenities including a
EFMB3FGPSNB$PM
$VBVIUÏNPDt.BQ+ & Hotel Gran Meliá
Elegant and modern,
pool and a fitness center.
d 1BTFPEFMB3FGPSNBt
ttXXX this beautiful hotel with .BQ/tt
TUBSXPPEIPUFMTDPN its 20-story atrium lobby XXXFNCBTTZTVJUFTDPNt
t has spacious guestrooms
112 Recommend your favorite hotel on traveldk.com

Price Categories
For a standard, $ under 1000 pesos
double room per $$ 1000–1500 pesos
night (with breakfast $$$ 1500–2000 pesos
if included), taxes, $$$$ 2000–2500 pesos
Streetsmart
Left Hotel Catedral Right Best Western Hotel de Cortés
Historic Hotels
! Gran Hotel de la Imperial Hotel
Ciudad de México $ This triangular-
smallish but clean and
inviting. There is Internet
This 19th-century hotel, shaped, conveniently available in the lobby and
fronting the Zócalo, located, five-story the staff are very friendly
features a magnificent building was constructed and helpful. d .BEFSP
Art Nouveau lobby with a in 1904, and when it $PM$FOUSPt.BQ1
beautiful 1908 Tiffany opened it was the tallest ttXXX
stained-glass ceiling. It building in Mexico City. UVMJQJOOSJU[NFYJDPDPN
has an open courtyard, The lobby has an elegant t/PBJSDPOEJUJPOJOHt
with a lovely, panoramic marble floor, a crystal
view from the elegant
wrought-iron elevators.
chandelier suspended
from the ceiling, and a * Hotel Gillow
Pleasant small hotel
d "WEF4FQUJFNCSF sweeping grand stairway. with a lovely century-old
$PM$FOUSPt.BQ1 d 1BTFPEFMB3FGPSNB marble, brass, and dark
ttXXX $PM+VÈSF[t.BQ- wood lobby. The sixth
HSBOIPUFMDJVEBEEFNFYJDP ttXXX floor rooms have private
DPNNYt IPUFMJNQFSJBMDPNNYt balconies. d *TBCFMMB
$BUØMJDB $PM$FOUSP
@ Hotel Majestic Holiday Inn Zócalo
The hotel is housed in % This historic colonial
t.BQ1t
tXXXIPUFMHJMMPXDPN
a lovely Baroque building building located across t/PBJSDPOEJUJPOJOHt
that fronts on the Zócalo. from the Zócalo houses a
The lobby of the hotel
features a red-tiled floor,
thoroughly modern
Holiday Inn with a glass ( Hotel María
Cristina
lovely fountain, and hand- front lobby. Comfortable A small hotel in a
painted tiles from Pueblo. guestrooms are decorated charming rose-colored
The rooftop Terraza in a pleasant colonial four-story colonial
Restaurant is an excellent style. d "WEF.BZP building close to the UK
place to watch the flag $PM$FOUSPt.BQ2 Embassy. The garden
ceremony on the Zócalo. ttXXX offers a retreat from the
d "W.BEFSP $PM IPUFMFTDPSUFTDPNt bustle of the city. d 3ÓP
$FOUSPt.BQ2t -FSNB $PM$VBVIUÏNPD
tXXXNBKFTUJDDPN
NYt/PUBMMSPPNTIBWFBJS ^ Geneve Calinda
This elegant 1906
t.BQ+t
tXXXIPUFMNBSJBDSJTUJOB
DPOEJUJPOJOHt colonial hotel with DPNNYt"JSDPOEJUJPOJOH
classical European styling POMZJOTPNFSPPNTt
£ Best Western
Hotel de Cortés
is decorated with antique
Dating back to the 17th

furnishings and fine art.
The attached Sanborns ) Hotel Catedral
This small hotel with
century, this Baroque Restaurant is in a historic 116 rooms has a lovely
building was originally salon with stained-glass lobby with gleaming
used by Augustine monks. decor. d -POESFT $PM marble floors, dark
With small, simple rooms, +VÈSF[t.BQ)t woodwork, and arched
the hotel is located across tXXXIPUFMHFOFWF windows. Two terraces
from Alameda Central DPNNYt on the seventh floor, with
near the Museo Franz chairs and tables, provide
Mayer. d "W)JMEBHP
$PM(VFSSFSPt.BQ/ & Tulip Inn Ritz
Built in 1930 on one
great views of the city.
d %PODFMFT $PM$FOUSP
ttXXX of the city’s most historic t.BQ2t
CPVUJRVFIPUFMEFDPSUFTDPN streets, Madero, the tXXXIPUFMDBUFESBMDPN
t/PBJSDPOEJUJPOJOHt hotel’s rooms are t/PBJSDPOEJUJPOJOHt
Unless otherwise stated, all hotels have en-suite bathrooms and 113
air conditioning
Streetsmart
Left Hotel Suites Amberes Right Hotel Marco Polo
Boutique Hotels and Inns

! Casa González
This charming, $ Hotel Marco Polo
This modern small
pink marble with large
mirrors and brass
colonial-style small inn, hotel on the edge of detailing. All guestrooms
with 22 guestrooms and Zona Rosa has sixty are tastefully decorated
a lovely landscaped carpeted spacious with contemporary colors
courtyard, is located in a guestrooms, furnished and have modern baths
residential area near the with modern decor. There with Jacuzzis. d Av Paseo
UK and US embassies. is a piano bar on the EFMB3FGPSNB $PM
Each room is unique, and lobby level. d "NCFSFT +VÈSF[t.BQ-
some have their own $PM+VÈSF[t.BQ+t ttXXX
balcony or terrace. d Río t IPUFMFTFNQPSJPDPNt
Sena 69, Col Cuauhtémoc XXXNBSDPQPMPDPNNYt
t.BQ+tt/P
* Hotel Suites
BJSDPOEJUJPOJOHt
% Suites Coyoacán
This small colonial
Amberes
Charming and modern,
@ Hotel Hábita
Located in trendy
hotel provides apartment-
style accommodations in
the suites of this small
apartment-style boutique
Polanco, the ultra-modern a residential area. The inn hotel feature full kitchens
design makes this 36- feels much like a and a separate alcove.
room boutique hotel a personal residence, and Guests are also served
standout. Guestrooms the nine guestrooms are complimentary Mexican
offer an elegantly attractive suites with breakfast. d "NCFSFT
minimalist white and kitchens. Weekly and $PM+VÈSF[t.BQ+t
metal decor, marble monthly rates are tXXXTVJUFT
baths, and super available. d "W$PZPDÈO BNCFSFTDPNNYt
comfortable beds. d Av $PM%FM7BMMFt.BQ
1SFTJEFOUF.BTBSJL $PM 7ttXXX
1PMBODPt.BQ% TVJUFTDPZPBDBODPNt/P ( Hippodrome
Contemporary
Hotel
ttXXX BJSDPOEJUJPOJOHt boutique charm joins

IPUFMIBCJUBDPNt historic grandeur in this
^ NH Centro Art Deco building. The
£ Casa Vieja
This luxurious all-
Histórico
This is a small five-story
rooms are decorated in
neutral colors with wood
suites boutique hotel is boutique hotel with furnishings, leather, and
housed in a former late minimalist decor and Mexican textiles. d Av
19th-century mansion in pleasant common areas. .FYJDP $PM$POEFTB
an exclusive section of The rooms are small and t.BQ)t
Polanco. The two-story comfortable with wood tXXXUIFIJQQPESPNF
hacienda is elegantly floors. Many rooms offer IPUFMDPNt
charming, with tiled city views and there is a
courtyard and common
areas, colored stucco
rooftop restaurant.
d $BMMF1BMNB $FOUSP ) Hotel Polanco
This five-story hotel
walls, and lavishly t.BQ2t offers rooms with wood
decorated with Mexican tXXXOIIPUFMTDPNt furniture and colorful
ceramics, paintings, and fabrics. The lobby has
folkart. The suites are
spacious with colorful & Hotel Emporium
This elegant boutique
marble floors, stained-
glass ceiling, and relaxing
decor. d &VHFOJP4VF hotel presents European leather couches. d Edgar
$PM1PMBODPt.BQ%t charm in a stunning early "MMBO1PF $PM1PMBODP
tXXX 20th-century building. ttXXX
DBTBWJFKBDPNt The lobby is finished in IPUFMQPMBODPDPNt
114 Most hotels accept credit cards, but some mid-range and budget
hotels expect cash
Price Categories
Streetsmart
Left Plaza Florencia Right Royal Hotel Zona Rosa
Mid-Range Hotels
! Galería Plaza Royal Hotel Zona
Located in Zona Rosa $ Rosa
tXXXIPUFMSPZBMQMB[BDPN
NYt
this 11-story hotel is a This small but classic
favorite with business
travelers. The spacious
Zona Rosa hotel has
spacious rooms, with * Century Hotel
Close to the gay
and bright guestrooms large baths. The rooms nightlife section of Zona
are done up in a modern are tastefully decorated Rosa, this hotel offers
style using neutral colors. with neutral colors. The comfortable guestrooms
d )BNCVSHP$PM rooftop pool and solarium with private balconies,
+VÈSF[t.BQ(t offer stunning views of neutral color schemes,
tXXXCSJTBTDPNNY the city. d "NCFSFT and marble baths with
t $PM+VÈSF[t.BQ+ Roman tubs. The lovely
ttXXX lobby has marble floors,
@ Sevilla Palace
This sleek 23-story
IPUFMSPZBM[SDPNt curved walls and seating
areas decorated in
high-rise hotel comes
with modern rooms and % NH Mexico City
This contemporary
golden tones. d -JWFSQPPM
$PM+VÈSF[t.BQ)
a dramatic central atrium Zona Rosa high-rise hotel ttXXX
lobby with a welcoming has a sleek and modern DFOUVSZDPNNYt
sitting area. The excellent lobby with marble floors
amenities include a
fitness center, a rooftop
and sitting areas. Large
guestrooms are ( Fiesta Inn Centro
Histórico
pool, a hot tub, and a decorated in dark neutral This is a modern, small
lounge. d Av Paseo de la colors with hardwood hotel with 140
3FGPSNB $PM5BCBDBMFSB floors and matching guestrooms. Room
t.BQ-t wooden furniture. furnishings come in
tXXXTFWJMMBQBMBDFDPN d -JWFSQPPM $PM+VÈSF[ neutral color tones. There
NYt t.BQ)t is a small gym and a
tXXXOIIPUFMTDPN modern shopping mall on
£ Sheraton Centro
Histórico Hotel
t the first floor. d "W+VÈSF[
$PM$FOUSP
and Convention
Center ^ Plaza Florencia
This narrow stone
t.BQ/t
tXXXmFTUBJOODPNt
Conveniently located and and glass tower in Zona
thoroughly modern, this
dramatic 24-story high-
Rosa has carpeted
guestrooms with wood ) Hotel Bristol
Located in a quiet
rise offers spacious furnishings and neutral neighborhood behind the
guestrooms with plush fabrics. d 'MPSFODJB $PM US and UK embassies,
furnishings, marble baths, +VÈSF[t.BQ)t the hotel is a favorite
and high-speed Internet. tXXXQMB[BnPSFODJB with business and
Full business services for DPNNYt pleasure travelers.
meetings, conferences, Attractive guestrooms, a
and conventions are
available. Other amenities & Hotel Royal Plaza
This pleasant hotel’s
convenient setting, and
friendly staff make it a
offered include a fitness rooms are spacious and pleasant place to stay.
center and an indoor attractive, with carpeting, The large lobby has a
swimming pool. d Av king size beds, and bright pleasant sitting area.
+VÈSF[ $PM$FOUSP print accent fabrics. d 1MB[B/FDBYB $PM
t.BQ/t Suites are also available. $VBVIUÏNPDt.BQ,
tXXXTIFSBUPONFYJDP d 1BSSPRVJB $PM4BOUB ttXXX
DPNt $SV["UPZBDt IPUFMCSJTUPMDPNNYt
air conditioning
Streetsmart
Left Foyer, Mexico City Hostel Right Hotel Palace
Budget Hotels
! Hotel Palace
This conveniently $ Casa de los
Amigos & Posada Viena
This Mexican-style
located hotel offers This simple Quaker-run hotel has cozy rooms
friendly service, tours to guest house caters to with large windows and
popular attractions, clean travelers who share their ceiling fans. It also
guestrooms decorated in values of international features an Argentine
blue tones, and an onsite peace and understanding. restaurant and wireless
restaurant. The Turibus The place has shared Internet in the public
stop is close by and the dormitory-style rooms for areas. d .BSTFMMB
hotel is situated between men and women and a $PM+VÈSF[t.BQ,
Paseo de la Reforma and few small double rooms, ttXXX
the Monumento a la with a minimum stay for QPTBEBWJFOBIPUFMDPN
Revolución. d Ignacio four nights. d Ignacio t'PVSUIOJHIUGSFF/PBJS
Ramírez 7, Col Tabacalera .BSJTDBM $PM5BCBDBMFSB DPOEJUJPOJOHt
t.BQ-t t.BQ-t
t/PBJSDPOEJUJPOJOHt tXXXDBTBEFMPTBNJHPT
PSHt"JSDPOEJUJPOJOHBOE * Hotel Finisterre
This mid-rise hotel is
Mexico City QSJWBUFCBUISPPNTPOMZJO clean and modern with
@ Hostel TPNFSPPNTt comfortable guestrooms
This cheery hostel in an and a large, pleasant
attractive colonial building
has a bilingual staff, % Hostel Mundo
Joven Catedral
lobby. d $BM[BEBEF5MBMQBO
$PM1BSRVFEF4BO
Internet service, and a Affiliated to Hostelling "OESÏTt
small café in the pretty International, this hostel tXXXIPUFMmOJTUFSSFDPN
lobby. Dormitory and has an attractive lobby NYt
private rooms are with a full service café,
available, as are laundry
services and lockers.
friendly bilingual staff, and
offers tours. Internet café, ( Hotel Corinto
This mid-size 10-story
d 3FQÞCMJDBEF#SBTJM lockers, a roof-top terrace, hotel offers comfortable
$PM$FOUSPt.BQ2 and a complimentary guestrooms in neutral
ttXXX breakfast are attractions. colors with modern
NFYJDPDJUZIPTUFMDPNt/P d 3FQÞCMJDBEF(VBUFNBMB furnishings. There is a
BJSDPOEJUJPOJOHPSQSJWBUF $PM$FOUSPt.BQ3 swimming pool on the
CBUISPPNTt ttXXX roof and an on-site
IPTUFMDBUFESBMDPNt/P restaurant. d *HOBDJP-
£ Hostal Moneda
This hostel, just east
BJSDPOEJUJPOJOH1SJWBUF
CBUISPPNTPOMZJOTPNF
7BMMBSUB $PM5BCBDBMFSB
t.BQ-t
of Zócalo, is popular with SPPNTt tXXXDPSJOUPDPNNYt
backpackers and includes
airport pickup, breakfast
buffet, Internet, and a ^ Mayaland Hotel Metropol
This excellent budget ) This modern hotel
pleasant rooftop terrace hotel has pleasant and offers spotlessly clean
with hammocks. A basic spotlessly clean small guestrooms pleasantly
room features bunk and rooms, friendly staff, decorated in neutral
in-room locker. d .POFEB Internet access in the colors. There is an onsite
$PM$FOUSPt.BQ2 lobby, and a good restaurant serving Mexi-
ttXXX restaurant. d "OUPOJP can entrées.d -VJT.PZB
IPTUBMNPOFEBDPNNY $BTP $PM5BCBDBMFSB $PM$FOUSPt.BQ/t
t"JSDPOEJUJPOJOHBOE t.BQ,t
QSJWBUFCBUISPPNTPOMZJO tXXXIPUFMNBZBMBOEDPN tXXXIPUFMNFUSPQPMDPN
TPNFSPPNTt NYt/PBJSDPOEJUJPOJOHt mx t/PBJSDPOEJUJPOJOHt
116 Most hotels accept credit cards, but some mid-range and budget
hotels expect cash
Price Categories
Streetsmart
Left Hotel Condesa df Right Hotel La Casona
Staying Around the City

! Hotel Condesa df
Chic, modern, and $ Radisson Paraíso
Perisur Hotel & Hilton Aeropuerto
This mid-sized modern
casual, this boutique hotel This gleaming modern hotel is located over the
is furnished in a classical high-rise has a stunning international terminal but
yet contemporary style. and expansive atrium it has excellent
The guestrooms are lobby with a fine Mexican soundproofing. Some of
luxurious, simple, and restaurant. The rooms are the rooms look out over
tasteful with high ceilings spacious with large the airport runways.
and colorful handwoven windows, contemporary d #FOJUP+VÈSF[
rugs. The shady inner furnishings, blue tone *OUFSOBUJPOBM"JSQPSUt.BQ
courtyard reminds you of carpeting, well-lit desks, $ttXXX
an old hacienda, yet it is and in-room safes. IJMUPODPNt
completely modern in d $ÞTQJEF $PM1BSRVFT
ambience. d "W7FSBDSV[
$PM$POEFTBt.BQ'
EFM1FESFHBMt
tXXXSBEJTTPODPNt * Crowne Plaza
Hotel de Mexico
ttXXX This high-rise hotel near
DPOEFTBEGDPNt the World Trade Center
Casa de la has a dramatic two-story
%
@ Hotel La Casona
With elegantly
Condesa
The rooms are clean with
lobby with wood details
and cozy seating areas.
furnished rooms, this basic furnishings, and The rooms are large and
small and cozy, European- some of the rooms on have Jacuzzi tubs.
style hotel is housed in a the top floor face the park d %BLPUB $PM/ÈQPMFT
former mansion with a and have small balconies. ttXXX
stunning courtyard. The Suites have larger rooms, DSPXOFQMB[BDPNt
service is personal with a small kitchenettes with
focus on comfort, privacy,
and refined luxury.
microwave, and a small
refrigerator. It is located ( Camino Real
Aeropuerto
d %VSBOHP $PM3PNB in Roma near restaurants A high-rise hotel with
t.BQ(t and cafés. d 0SJ[BCB large, attractive rooms.
tXXXIPUFMMBDBTPOBDPN $PM3PNBt.BQ, The business center is
NYt ttXXX open 24 hours daily.
FYUFOEFETUBZNFYJDPDPN d 1VFSUP.ÏYJDP $PM
£ Hotel Parque
Ensenada
t 1F×ØOEFMPT#B×PTt.BQ
$ttXXX
This attractive multi-story
hotel is located in the ^ Hotel Roosevelt
This small modern
DBNJOPSFBMDPNNYt
Roma area. The

guestrooms are clean,
hotel with 74 rooms is
spotlessly clean, and the ) Pepe’s
Open year-round this
comfortably-sized, and bilingual front desk staff pleasant RV park and
come with carpeting and are very helpful. The campground is the one
an in-room safe. The guestrooms are pleasant closest to Mexico City
hotel has a business and comfortable with a and suitable for large
center, on-site restaurant, small safe. The hotel is rigs. Affiliation to a major
and a parking space. located close to Condesa travel agency helps in
d "W«MWBSP0CSFHØO and the Metro Station. logistics support. d &WB
$PM3PNBt.BQ-t d *OTVSHFOUFT4VS $PM 4BNBOPEF-ØQF[.BUFPT
t $POEFTBt.BQ)t #BSSJP4BO.BSUJO
XXXIPUFMFOTFOBEBDPN tXXXIPUFMSPPTFWFMU 5FQPU[PUMÈOt
NYt&YUSBDIBSHFGPSSPPNT DPNNYt"JSDPOEJUJPOJOH tXXXUFQPU[PUMBONFYJDP
XJUIBJSDPOEJUJPOJOHt POMZJOTPNFSPPNTt DPNNYSWQBSLQFQFTt
air conditioning
General Index
A baseball 59 Capilla de San José 12
Acapulco 59, 63 basilícas see churches car rental 103, 104
Acatitlán 41 basketball 59 Cárdenas, Lázaro 23, 25,
accommodations see Battle of Puebla 61 75, 82
Index
hotels Bazar de Sábado 90 Carlota 25, 63

acrobat, Tlatilco 8 Bellini 56, 98, 99 Carranza, Venustiano 75,
Adoration of the Kings 13 Benito Juárez Museo 15 77
air travel 103, 106 bird watching 58 Carrillón 31
airport 103 Birth of Venus 20 Cartier 86
Alameda Central 20 Bistolfi, Leonardo 20 Casa de los Azulejos 44,
Altar del Perdón 12, 13 Bistrot Mosaico 99 50, 69, 71
Altar de los Reyes 13 Boari, Adamo 20, 44 Casa de la Cultura Jesús
Antigua Basílica de boating 59 Reyes Heroles 91
Guadalupe 30 Bolsa Mexicana de Valores Casa de los Espejos 25,
Dr. Álvar 91 (BMV) 45, 77 85
Antiguo Colegio de San Bosque de Chapultepec 7, Casa Lamm 98
Ildefonso 41, 44, 50, 68 22–3, 38, 43, 46, 58, 82, Casa de la Primera
Antiguo Palacio del 83, 84, 85 Imprenta de América
Arzobispado 57 Botánico Jardín (Palacio 40, 70
Apotheosis of Peace 27 Nacional) 47 Casas, Bartolomé de las
architecture 44 boxing 59 76
Arena Coliseo 56 Bravo, Manuel 86 Casino Español 73
Arena México 56 Broken Spine, The 92 Castillo de Chapultepec
Arrieta, Pedro de 30 budget travel 106 22, 24–5, 39, 40, 43, 50,
art galleries 110 Burghers of Calais 91 83, 85
Art Deco 6, 20, 21, 44, 56, Burnt Palace 62 Catedral Metropolitana 6,
68, 97 bullfighting 59 12–13, 44, 48, 67
Arte Mexicano para el buses 103, 104 cathedrals see churches
Mundo 72 Causeway of the Empress
Assumption of the Virgin 13 C see Paseo de la Reforma
Dr. ATL 27 Cabrera, Miguel 7, 13, 26, Cementeros de Cruz Azul
Atlanteans 62 31, 49, 69 98
attire 107 Café Lutece 87 Centro Cultural Ollin Yoliztli
Au Pied de Cochon 87 Café Milano 79 56, 57
Auditorio Nacional 56, 57 Café del Palacio 20 Centro Cultural Telmex 57
Avenida Insurgentes 98 Café El Parnaso 93 Centro Histórico 66–73
Avenida Presidente Café el Péndulo 79 restaurants and cafés 73
Masarik 86 Café Tacuba 73 shopping 72
Avenue of the Dead 32, cafés see restaurants Centro Nacional de las
34, 35 and cafés Artes 57
Aztec Hall 9, 10–11, 85 Calles, Plutarco Elías Chacmool Carving 17
67, 75 Chalchiuhtlicue 8, 35
B Camarena, González 51 Champs-Elyseés 40, 74
Balbás, Jerónimo de 13 camping 111 Chapulín 11
ballet, see Mexican Ballet, Cano Manilla, Ramón 27 Chapultepec and Polanco
Folklóric Ballet Cantina la Coyoacana 93 82–7
Ballet Folklórico de México cantinas 56 restaurants and cafés 87
21, 56 Capilla del Cerrito 31 shopping 86
banking 109 Capilla de Nuestra Señora Chapultepec Hill 25,
Bar Léon 56 de los Dolores 13 41
Bar la Ópera 56, 73 Capilla del Pocito 31 Charlot, Jean 51
Barragán, Luis 45 Capilla de San Felipe de charrerías 59
bars 56 Jesús 13 children 102
118
Church of Santa Díaz, Porfirio 14, 25, 27, F
Catarina 91 39, 41, 44, 75, 76, 83 Felguérez, Manuel 83
Church of Santiago 95 Diego, Juan 7, 30, 31, festivals 60–61
churches 48–9 see also 48, 95 Finance Secretariat 69
individual entries dinner shows 56 Folklóric Ballet 56
Index
Churrigueresque 13, 44, 48 discounts 106 Fonart 78
Cielo Rojo 79 DKNY 86 Fonda el Refugio 79
cinema 57 Don Asado 99 Fonda San Ángel 93
Ciudadela 33 Don Juan Antonio 69 food and drink 54–5
classical music 56 Dream of a Sunday Fountain of Coyoacán 89
Claudelle, Camille 91 Afternoon in the Fountain of the Water
Clausell, Joaquín 70 Alameda Central 51, Jugs 97
cliff divers 59 70, 92 Frattina 86
climate 105 driving 103, 104 Freedom Bell 61
climbing 58, 59 Dulcería de Celaya 72 Fuente de la Diana
Cloud, The 27 Cazadora 77
clubs 56 E Fuente de Tláloc 85
Cluny 93 Eagle Knights 17 Fuster, Alberto 27
Coatlicue 10, 11 Easter 61
Columbus, Christopher Echave, Baltazar de G
61, 76 97 Galería Arvil 78
Condesa 98 Edificio Basurto 97 Galería de Historia 24
Contramar 99 El Ángel 76 Galería Enrique Guerrero
Contreras, Jesús F. 27 El Antiguo Convento 86
Convent of Santo Churubusco 89 Galería Enrique Jiménez
Domingo 41 El Arquitecto 43 Maren 78
Coppedé, Mariano 69 El Bar Mata 56 Galería Juan Martín 86
Cordier, Carlos 76 El Bazar de Sábado Galería Lopez Quiroga 86
Correa, Juan de 31, 69 Restaurant 90, 93 Galería Oscar Román 86
Cortés, Hernán 10, 11, 14, El Caballito 26, 27, 75, Gálvez, Bernardo de 25
16, 38, 39, 40, 43, 62, 77 Gante, Pedro de 76
67, 88, 90 El Hombre Contralor del gardens see parks and
Covarrubias, Luis 10 Universo 51, 92 gardens
Coyoacán and San Ángel embassies and consulates Gaudí 79
88–93 108 gay and lesbian venues 57
restaurants and cafés 93 emergencies 108 Giandolce 87
Coyolxauhqui 10, 11, 16, 43 Emperor Maximilian I 25, Gil, Carmen Carrillo 91
Creation, The 92 39, 63, 67, 74, 76, 83 Ginocchio Galería 86
crime 105, 108 Emperor Moctezuma II golf 59
Cuauhtémoc 26, 60, 76 39 Greater Mexico City 94–9
Cuauhxicalli of entertainment and restaurants and cafés
Moctezuma I 11 performing arts 56–7 99
Cuernavaca 62 Entre Vero 93 Gulf Coast Hall 9
Cuevas, José Antonio 44 Epic of the Mexican Gunten, Roger Von 86
Cuevas, José Luis 70, 83 People 6, 14, 51, 67, Guzman, Santo Domingo
currency exchange 109 92 de 48
Customs Tax Collectors Escandón, Antonio 76
41 Estadio Azteca 56, 59 H
Estudio Azul 98 Hacienda de los Morales
D Eternal Spring, The 91 87
dance venues 56, 57 Ethnography Halls 9 hang-gliding 58
Day of the Dead 50 Eve 91 Headdress of Quetzal
Degas, Edgar 91 Ex-Convento e Iglesia del Feathers 10
Deza, Diego de 76 Carmen 49 health 104, 107
Díaz, Juan José 45 excursions 62–3 Helados Siberia 91, 93
119
Helguera, Francisco Ituarte, Manuel M. 90 Les Moustaches 79
Eppens 50, 51 Iturbe, Don Augustin de 13 Libería Gandhi 72
Hemiciclo a Juárez 71 Izaguirre, Leandro 26, 90 Lienzo Charro 59
Heredia, Guillermo de 71 Izote 87 Litoral 99
Herrán, Saturnino 27 Iztaccíhuatl 59, 63 Little Hill 31
Index
Hevart’s Galería de Iztapalapa 60 Los Bisquets Obregón 16

Arte 78 Los Danzantes 73, 91, 93
Hidalgo y Costilla, Miguel J Los Girasoles 26, 73
14, 15, 38, 39 Jaguar Mural 33, 34 Los Niños Héroes 38
High Convent of Our Jaguar Palace 34 Los Pinos 22
Holy Father St. Francis Jardín Borda 63 Lotería Nacional 44
of Mexico 48 Jardín de la Bombilla 46 Lozano, Manuel Rodríguez
hiking 58 Jardín Botánico 46 51
Hipódromo de las Jardín Botánico (UNAM) Lucha libre 56, 59
Américas 59 47
historic sites 40–41 Jardín del Centenario M
history 38–9 47, 52 Madero, Francisco I.
horse racing 59 Jardín de la Solidaridad 47 39, 75
horse riding 58 Jardín de la Tercera magazines 102
hospitals 108 Edad 46 Magdalena River 58, 96
Hot-Air Balloon, The 27 Jiménez, Francisco 76 Malgré Tout 27
hot-air ballooning 58 jogging 58 Mamá Rosa’s 99
hotels 112–7 Juárez, Benito 39, 61, 71 Manhattan Deli 79
boutique hotels 114 Juárez, Juan Rodriguez 13, Manilla, Ramón Cano 27
budget hotels 116 49 maps 102
discounts 106 K Marchena, Juan Pérez de
historic hotels 113 Kahlo, Frida 42, 83, 88, 89. 76
luxury hotels 112 90, 92, 95 mariachi 28, 57, 60
mid-range hotels 115 The Kiss 91 marimba 28
staying around Mexico Konditori 77, 79 markets 52–3, 110
City 117 Kooning, William de 83 Bazar de Sábado 53, 90,
House of Tiles see Casa 93
de los Azulejos L Jardín de Arte 53
Huitzilopochili 10, 11, La Buena Tierra 97, 99 Mercado de Artesanías
38, 95 La Casa de la de la Ciudadela 53, 71
Sirenas 73 Mercado de Coyoacán
I La Europa 72 52, 91
Iglesia y Ex-Convento de La Feria de Chapultepec Mercado Insurgentes
San Francisco 48 23, 57 52, 77, 78
Iglesia y Hospital de La Hormiga 23 Mercado Jamaica 52
Jesús Nazareno 40 La Katharsis 51 Mercado de la Merced
Iglesia de la Profesa 49 La Malinche 39, 90 52
Iglesia de San Agustín La Marcha de la Mercado San Juan 53,
de las Cuevas 96 Humanidad 50 71
Iglesia de San Francisco La Parroquia 63 Mercado Sonora 52
de Javier 49 La Quebrada 42 Mercado Xochitl 52
Iglesia de San Juan Laboratorio Arte Alameda Marotti, Geza 20
Bautista 89, 91 71 Matisse 99
Iglesia de Santa Prisca lakes see Bosque de Maya Hall 9
62 Chapultepec Mayan 9, 42, 97
immigration 103 language 107 Mayer, Franz 42
Infotour 102 Las Dos Fridas 83, 92 Mendiola, Vicente 77
insurance 102 Lazzaroni 71 Mendoza, Antonio de 40
Internet 109 Leal, Fernando 31 mercados see markets
Italianni’s 79 Legorreta, Ricardo 85 Meridiem 22, 87
120
Mesoamerica 32, 35, 62 Museo Casa de Carranza museums 6, 7, 8, 42–3, 67
Mesón del Cid 56 77 see also individual
metro 103, 104 Museo Casa Estudio entries
metrobus 104 Diego Rivera y Frida Music
Metropolitana Sacrarium 13 Kahlo 90 classical music 56
Index
Mexica Hall Museo de la Charrería 70 mariachi 28, 57, 60
see Aztec Hall Museo de la Ciudad de marimba 28
Mexican Ballet 56 México y Estudio de Music venues 57
Mexican National Art 92 Joquín Clausell 70
Mexican Revolution 24, Museo Diego Rivera N
39, 41, 43, 46, 67, 77 Anahuacalli 97 Nacimiento de la Virgen 69
Mexican Stock Exchange Museo Dolores Olmedo Nacional Monte de Piedad
see Bolsa Mexicana de 42, 92, 94, 95 72
Valores Museo del Ejército 70 National Observatory 24
Mexico City Virtual Guide Museo Franz Mayer 42, National Opera 56
102 68 National Symphony
Military Academy 25 Museo Frida Kahlo 42, Orchestra 56
Mochilazo 58 89, 91 Nativitas 28, 29
Moctezuma I 11 Museo de Historia Natural Neo-Gothic 63
Moctezuma II 14, 38, 39, 84 Nevado de Toluca 59
40, 67 Museo Interactivo de newspapers 102
Monarch Butterfly Reserve Economía 70 Noreña, Miguel 76
63 Museo José Luis Cuevas Northern Cultures Hall 9
Monolith of Coyolxauhqui 70 Nuestra Señora de
16 Museo Leon Trotsky 89, Guadalupe 30
Montenegro, Roberto 51 91 Nueva Democracia 51
Monumento de Colón 76 Museo Mural Diego Rivera
Monumento a 70, 92 O
Cuauhtémoc 76 Museo Nacional de la Oaxaca Hall 9
Monumento a la Acuarela 90 Obregón, Álvaro 39, 41,
Independencia 76 Museo Nacional de 46, 92
Monumento a los Niños Antropología 6, 8–9, 22, Obsidian Monkey Vessel
Heroes 23, 25, 84 41, 42, 83, 84, 85 10
Monumento a la Museo Nacional de Ocelotl-Cuauhxicalli 11
Revolución 75, 77 Arquitectura 20, 21 Offering, The 27
mountain biking 58 Museo Nacional de Arte 7, O’Gorman, Juan 42, 45,
mountains 26–7, 42, 69 50, 51, 90
Iztaccíhuatl 63 Museo Nacional de Olaguíbel, John 77
La Malinche 59, 63 Historia 22, 43, 50, 83, Olmec 9
Popocatépetl 63 84, 85 Olympic Stadium 50
murals 6, 8, 33, 34, 50–51, Museo Nacional de la Ometeotl 11
62, 89 Revolución 75, 77 Omniciencia 50
Murillo, Gerardo see Dr. Museo Nacional de San organ grinders 68
ATL Carlos 75, 77 Orozco, José Clemente
Museo de Arte Carrillo Museo Nacional del 21, 41, 42, 43, 50, 51,
Gil 43, 91 Virreinato 62 86, 91
Museo de Arte Museo del Niño 57 Our Lady of Guadalupe
Moderno 42, 51, 83, 85 Museo Rufino Tamayo see Virgin of Guadalupe
Museo de Arte Popular 70 43, 83 outdoor activities and
Museo de la Basilíca de Museo SHCP 69 sports 58–9
Guadalupe 31 Museo Soumaya 91
Museo del Caracol 24, 85 Museo Tecnológico de la P
Museo de la Caricatura 70 CFE 23 Paalen, Wolfgang 91
Museo del Carmen 90 Museo del Templo Mayor Palace of Inquisition 41
Museo Casa Barragán 45 16 Palace of Temantitla 33
121
Palacio de Bellas Artes 6, Plaza Ciudedela 71 Revolutionary Syndicate of
20–21, 41, 44, 47, 51, Plaza de la Constitución Technical Workers,
56, 57, 68, 69, 72, 92 see Zócalo Painters, and Sculptors
Palacio de Plaza de las Tres Culturas 92
Communicaciones 26 60, 95 Rincón Argentino 87
Index
Palacio de Cortés 62 Plaza del Ángel 77, 78 Ristorante Capri 87

Palacio de los Deportes 59 Plaza del Carmen 53 Rivera, Diego 6, 7, 14, 21,
Palacio de Minería 44 Plaza Garibaldi 57 41, 42, 43, 50, 51, 67,
Palacio Nacional 6 14–15, Plaza Hidalgo 89, 91 68, 69, 70, 85, 88, 89,
40, 51, 67, 92 Plaza Manuel Tolsá 69 90, 91, 92, 93, 95, 97
Palacio Postal 69, 71 Plaza of the Moon 34 Rodin, Auguste 27,
Papalote Museo del Plaza de la Santa 75, 91
Niño 23, 85 Veracruz 47 Rodríguez, Lorenzo 13
parks and gardens Plaza Santo Domingo 41, Rojo, Alfredo Guati 90
6, 46–7 see also 71 Roma 98
individual entries Plaza de Toros Mexico 98 rosca de reyes 61
Parque Alameda police 108 Rothko, Mark 43
Central 40, 46, 68 Polyforum Siqueiros 50, 98 rowing 59
Parque Ecológico de Popocatépetl 63
Xochimilco 29, 46, 96 Portal de los Evangelistas S
Parque Hundido 47, 58, 98 41 safety 104, 108
Parque Lincoln 47 Pre-Classic Central Mexico Saint Ramon 12
Parque México 46, 58, 97 Hall 8 Sala Nezahualcóyotl
Parque Nacional Ajusco 58 public holidays 61 56, 57
Parque Nacional Desierto Puebla 63 salsa 73
de los Leones 47, 58, 96 Puro Corazón 73 San Ángel Inn 93
Parque Nacional los Pyramid of the Moon 32, San Felipe Neri see Iglesia
Dinamos 58, 96 33, 34, 35 de la Profesa
Parque Nacional Pyramid of the Sun 32, 35 San Miguel de Allende 63
Iztaccíhuatl-Popocatépetl Pyramid of San Nicolás Totolapan 58
63 Tlahuizcalpantecuhtli 62 Sanborns 50, 69, 73, 78
Parroquia de Santa Anna 38, 39, 40
Capuchinas 31 Q Santa Cecilia Acatitlán
Parroquia de Indios 31 Querol, Augustin 20 41, 95
Parroquia de San Quetzalcoatl 11, 35 Sculpture Garden 47
Bernardiono de Siena 49 Quetzalpapalotl Palace Sebastián 75, 83
Pasaje Polanco 86 Complex 33, 34 Secretaría de Educación
Paseo de Cortés 63 Quevedo, Miguel Ángel de Pública 50, 70
Paseo de la Reforma and 47 Secretariat of Tourism
Zona Rosa 74–9 Quintana, Patricia 87 (Federal) – SECTUR
restaurants and cafés 79 102, 108
shopping 78 R SECTUR 102, 108
Pastelaría Ideal 72 Regina Coeli 49 Self-Portrait with a
Pastor Velazquez 90 restaurants and cafés Monkey 92
Patino, Dolores Olmedo Centro Histórico 73 shopping 110
92, 95 Chapultepec and shops
Patio of the Pillars 34 Polanco 87 Centro Histórico 72
pedicab 28 Coyoacán and San Ángel Chapultepec and
Perfumes Y Esencias 93 Polanco 86
Fraiche 72 Greater Mexico City 99 Paseo de la Reforma
Peseros 104 Paseo de la Reforma and Zona Rosa 78
pharmacies 108 and Zona Rosa 79 Siqueiros, David Alfaro
phonecards 109 restrooms 108 21, 41, 42, 43, 50, 51,
photography 107 Retablo de la Indepencia 91, 98
Pirámide de Cuicuilco 41 50 sitio taxis 106
122
Snob Café 87 Thai Gardens 87 Villalpando, Cristobal de
soccer 59 Tiempo Libre 57 31, 49
Solares, Eduardo 90 Tiffany 86 Virgin of the Apocalypse,
Soto, Miguel Ángel 48 time 107 The 26
souvenirs 110 tipping 107, 111 Virgin de Guadalupe 7, 30,
Index
Spartling, William 62 Tláloc 11, 17, 33, 35, 83, 31, 48, 61, 95
Specia 99 85, 95 visas 102
sports see outdoor Tlalpan 96 visitor centers 102
activities and sports Tlatelolco 10, 41, 76, 95 Viveros de Coyoacán 47, 58
street crime 105 Tlatilco 97 Voladores de Papantla 84
Sun Stone 9, 10 toilets 107
Sushi Roll 26, 73 Toledo, Francisco 83, 86 W
swimming 59 Tolsá, Manuel 13, 26, 44, walking 58, 104
48, 49, 71, 75 Wall of Serpents 62
T Toltec 9, 42, 62, 97 War of Mexican
Taco Inn 26, 73 Toltec Hall 9 Independence 40
Talleres de los Ballesteros Tomb of Monte Albán 9 Warhol, Andy 83
78 Torre Latinoamericana 57, watersports 59
Tamayo, Rufino 21, 42, 43, 69, 71 weather 105
51, 83 Torre Mayor 45, 77 Western Cultures Hall 9
Tane 86 Torture of Cuauhtémoc, women 107
Tasca Manolo 93 The 26 World Trade Center 98
Taxco 62 tourist information centers
taxi 103, 104, 106, 111 102 X
Teatro Blanquita 57 Tours 104, 106, 111 Xochimilco 41, 46, 49, 52,
Teatro de la Danza 56, 57 train travel 103 57, 58, 60, 94, 96
Teatro de los Insurgentes trajineras 7, 96 Xochimilco Floating
57 trolleybus 104 Gardens 7, 28–9, 57, 96
Tecla 99 Trotsky, León 88, 89 embarcaderos and
telephone 109 Tula 62 floating vendors 29
Temple of the Feathered Turibus 22, 104
Conches 34 turista 105 Z
Temple of Quetzalpapalotl Zócalo 12, 14, 15, 16, 40,
33, 35 U 41, 48, 61, 66, 67
Temple of Tláloc 17 Universidad Nacional Zona Rosa 76 see also
Templo de la Enseñanza Autónoma de México Paseo de la Reforma
48, 71 (UNAM) 45, 50, 98 and Zona Rosa 76
Templo Mayor 6, 10, Uriarte Talavera 86 Zoológico de Chapultepec
16–17, 41, 43, 67 22, 57, 84
Templo de Regina V
Coeli 49 Valle de Bravo 58, 59, 63
Templo de Santo Domingo Valley of Mexico 58
48, 71 Valley of Mexico from the
Tenayuca 41, 95 Santa Isabel Mountain
tennis 59 Range, The 27
Tenochtitlán 10, 16, 38, 67, Vázquez, Pedro Ramírez
76, 88 16, 83
Tenochtitlán Ceremonial Velasco, Don Luis de 68
Center 17 Velasco, José María 7, 27,
Teotihuacán 7, 32–3, 38, 69
41, 62, 97 Veracruz 84
Tepeyac 31 Via Spiga 78
Tepotzotlán 62 Villa de Guadalupe 7,
Terrazas, Clemente 13 30–31, 61, 94, 95
Tezka 79 Villa, Pancho 39, 73, 75
123
Acknowledgments
The Author Editors Hugh Thompson,
Nancy Mikula’s passion has been Ros Walford
to explore America and discover Designer Kate Leonard
Acknowledgments
its little-known attractions. Her Senior Cartographic Editor

articles on travel and history have Casper Morris
appeared in numerous DTP Designer Natasha Lu
publications in the USA and Senior Picture Researcher Ellen
Canada. She has authored Dorling Root
Kindersley’s Eyewitness Travel Top DK Picture Library Romaine
10 guides to San Antonio & Austin Werblow, Myriam Meghrabi
and to Santa Fe. She also has Production Linda Dare
collaborated on guides to Arizona, Revisions Editorial and Design
Southwest USA, and the Grand Emma Anacootee, Claire Jones,
Canyon. Helen Partington, Conrad van Dyk
Main Photographer Paul Franklin Picture Credits

Additional Photography Placement Key: t=top; tc=top
Demetrio Carrasco, Rough Guides/ center; tr=top right; cla=center
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Cartographer Jasneet Kaur
Senior Picture Researcher Every effort has been made to
Taiyaba Khatoon trace the copyright holders, and
Picture Research Assistance we apologize in advance for any
Sumita Khatwani unintentional omissions. We
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Kumari appropriate acknowledgments
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At DK LONDON:
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124
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125
Phrase Book
In an Emergency Post Offices and Banks
Help! ¡Socorro! soh-koh-roh Where can I ¿Dónde puedo dohn-deh pweh-
Call a doctor! ¡Llame a un yah-meh ah oon change money? cambiar doh kahm-bee-
médico! meh-dee-koh dinero? ahr dee-neh-roh
Call an ¡Llame una yah-meh ah How much ¿Cuánto kwahn-toh
Phrase Book
ambulance! ambulancia! oonah ahm- is the cuesta kweh-

boo-lahn-see-ah postage to…? enviar una stah ehn-vee-
Call the fire ¡Llame a los yah-meh ah lohs carta a…? yahr oo-nah
department! bomberos! bohm-beh-rohs kahr-tah ah
policeman el policía ehl poh-lee-see-ah I need stamps Necesito neh-seh-see-toh
estampillas ehs-tahm
Communication Essentials -pee-yahs
Yes Sí see
No No noh Shopping
Please Por favor pohr fah-vohr How much ¿Cuánto kwahn-toh
Thank you Gracias grah-see-ahs does this cost? cuesta esto? kwehs-tah ehs-toh
Excuse me Perdone pehr-doh-neh I would like… Me gustaría… meh goos-tah-
Hello Hola oh-lah ree-ah
Bye (casual) Chau chau Do you have? ¿Tienen? tee-yeh-nehn
Goodbye Adiós ah-dee-ohs Do you take ¿Aceptan ahk-sehp-tahn
What? ¿Qué? keh credit cards/ tarjetas de tahr-heh-tahs
When? ¿Cuándo? kwahn-doh traveler’s crédito/ deh kreh-dee-
Why? ¿Por qué? pohr-keh checks? cheques toh/
Where? ¿Dónde? dohn-deh de viajero? cheh-kehs deh
How are you? ¿Cómo está koh-moh ehs-tah vee-ah-heh-roh
usted? oos-tehd expensive caro kahr-oh
Very well, Muy bien, mwee bee-ehn cheap barato bah-rah-toh
thank you gracias grah-see-ahs white blanco blahn-koh
I’m sorry Lo siento loh see-ehn-toh black negro neh-groh
red rojo roh-hoh
Useful Phrases yellow amarillo ah-mah-ree-yoh
Where is/are…? ¿Dónde dohn-deh ehs- green verde vehr-deh
está/están…? tah/ehs-tahn blue azul ah-sool
How far is it to…? ¿Cuántos kwahn-tohs bank el banco ehl bahn-koh
metros/ meh-trohs/kee- market el tianguis/ ehl tee-ahn-goo-
kilómetros hay loh-meh-trohs mercado ees/mehr-kah-
de aquí a…? eye deh ah-kee ah doh
Which way ¿Por dónde pohr dohn-deh post office la oficina de lah oh-fee-see-
is it to…? se va a…? seh vah ah correos nah deh kohr-reh-
Do you speak ¿Habla inglés? ah-blah ohs
English? een-glehs supermarket el ehl soo-pehr-
I don’t No noh kohm- supermercado mehr-kah-doh
understand comprendo prehn-doh travel agency la agencia de lah ah-hehn-see-ah
viajes deh vee-ah-hehs
I would like Quisiera/ kee-see-yehr-ah
Me gustaría meh goo-stah Transportation
-ree ah When does the… ¿A qué hora ah keh oh-rah
leave? sale el…? sah-leh ehl
Useful Words Where is ¿Dónde está dohn-deh ehs-
big grande grahn-deh bus la parada tah lah pah-
small pequeño/a peh-keh-nyoh/nyah stop? de camiones? rah-dah deh
hot caliente kah-lee-ehn-teh kah-mee-ohn-es
cold frío/a free-oh/ah
good bueno/a bweh-noh/nah Is there a bus ¿Hay un eye oon kah-mee-
bad malo/a mah-loh/lah /train to…? camión/ ohn/trehn ah
open abierto/a ah-bee-ehr- tren a...?
toh/tah ticket office la taquilla lah tah-kee-yah
closed cerrado/a sehr-rah-doh/dah round-trip ticket un boleto oon boh-leh-toh
left izquierda ees-key-ehr-dah de ida deh ee-dah ee
right derecha deh-reh-chah y vuelta voo-ehl-tah
(keep) straight (siga) derecho (see-gah) deh- one-way ticket un boleto de oon boh-leh-toh
ahead reh-choh ida solamente deh ee-dah soh-
near cerca sehr-kah lah-mehn-teh
far lejos leh-hohs airport el aeropuerto ehl ah-ehr-
more más mahs oh-poo-
less menos meh-nohs
entrance entrada ehn-trah-dah Sightseeing
exit salida sah-lee-dah museum el museo ehl moo-seh-oh
elevator el ascensor ehl ah-sehn-sohr cathedral la catedral lah kah-teh-
toilets baños/ bah-nyohs/ drahl
126
church la iglesia/ lah ee-gleh-see-ah/ la cerveza sehr-veh-sah beer
la basílica lah bah-see-lee- el cerdo sehr-doh pork
kah el chocolate choh-koh chocolate
garden el jardín ehl hahr-deen -lah-teh
pyramid la pirámide lah pee-rah-meed la ensalada ehn-sah salad
tourist la oficina de lah oh-fee-see- -lah-dah
information turismo nah deh too- la fruta froo-tah fruit
office rees-moh el helado eh-lah-doh ice cream
Phrase Book
ticket la entrada lah ehn-trah-dah el huevo oo-eh-voh egg
guide (person) el/la guía ehl/lah gee-ah el jugo ehl hoo-goh juice
guide (book) la guía lah gee-ah la langosta lahn-gohs-tah lobster
map el mapa ehl mah -pah la leche leh-cheh milk
taxi stand sitio see-tee-on deh la mantequilla mahn-teh butter
de taxis tahk-sees -kee-yah
los mariscos mah-rees-kohs seafood
Staying in a Hotel el pan pahn bread
Do you have ¿Tienen una tee-eh-nehn el pescado pehs-kah-doh fish
a vacant room? habitación oo-nah ah-bee- picante pee-kahn-teh spicy
libre? tah-see-ohn la pimienta pee-mee pepper
lee-breh -yehn-tah
double room habitación ah-bee-tah-see- el pollo poh-yoh chicken
doble ohn doh-bleh el postre pohs-treh dessert
single room habitación ah-bee-tah-see- el queso keh-soh cheese
sencilla ohn sehn-see-yah el refresco reh-frehs-koh soft drink/soda
room with habitación ah-bee-tah-see- la sal sahl salt
a bath con baño ohn kohn bah- la salsa sahl-sah sauce
nyoh la sopa soh-pah soup
shower la ducha lah doo-chah el té teh herb tea (usually
I have a Tengo una tehn-goh oo-nah camomile)
reservation habitación ah-bee-tah-see- el té negro teh neh-groh tea
reservada ohn reh-sehr- la torta tohr-tah sandwich
vah-dah las tostadas tohs-tah-dahs toast
key la llave lah yah-veh el vinagre vee-nah-greh vinegar
el vino blanco vee-noh white wine
blahn-koh
Eating Out
el vino tinto vee-noh red wine
Have you got ¿Tienen mesa tee-eh-nehn
teen-toh
a table for… para…? meh-sah pah-rah
I want to Quiero kee-eh-roh
reserve reservar reh-sehr-vahr
Numbers
0 cero seh-roh
a table una mesa oo-nah meh-sah
1 uno oo-noh
The bill, La cuenta, lah kwehn-tah
2 dos dohs
please por favor pohr fah-vohr
3 tres trehs
I am a Soy soy veh-heh-tah-
4 cuatro kwa-troh
vegetarian vegetariano/a ree-ah-no/na
5 cinco seen-koh
waiter/waitress mesero/a meh-seh-roh/rah
6 seis says
menu la carta lah kahr-tah
7 siete see-eh-teh
wine list la carta de lah kahr-tah deh
8 ocho oh-choh
vinos vee-nohs
9 nueve nweh-veh
glass un vaso oon vah-soh
10 diez dee-ehs
knife un cuchillo oon koo-chee-yoh
20 veinte veh-een-teh
fork un tenedor oon teh-neh-dohr
30 treinta treh-een-tah
spoon una cuchara oo-nah koo-chah- 40 cuarenta kwah-rehn-tah
rah 50 cincuenta seen-kwehn-tah
breakfast el desayuno ehl deh-sah-yoo- 60 sesenta seh-sehn-tah
noh 70 setenta seh-tehn-tah
lunch la comida lah koh-mee-dah 80 ochenta oh-chehn-tah
dinner la cena lah seh-nah 90 noventa noh-vehn-tah
main course el plato fuerte ehl plah-toh 100 cien see-ehn
foo-ehr-teh 200 doscientos dohs-see-ehn- tohs
starters las entradas lahs ehn-trah-das 500 quinientos khee-nee-ehn-tohs
1,000 mil meel
Menu Decoder
el aceite ah-see-eh-teh oil Time
las aceitunas ah-seh-toon-ahs olives one minute un minuto oon mee-noo-toh
el agua mineral ah-gwa mee- mineral water one hour una hora oo-nah oh-rah
neh-rahl half an hour media hora meh-dee-ah oh-rah
el ajo ah-hoh garlic Monday lunes loo-nehs
el arroz ahr-rohs rice Tuesday martes mahr-tehs
el azúcar ah-soo-kahr sugar Wednesday miércoles mee-ehr-koh-lehs
una bebida beh-bee-dah drink Thursday jueves hoo-weh-vehs
el café kah-feh coffee Friday viernes vee-ehr-nehs
la carne kahr-neh meat Saturday sábado sah-bah-doh
la cebolla seh-boh-yah onion Sunday domingo doh-meen-goh
Bold letters in the pronunciation guides indicate the stressed syllable 127
Selected Street Index
2 de Abril N2 Doctor Juan Navarro M5 Niños Héroes M5
5 de Febrero Q5 Doctor Lavista M4 Niza K4
16 de Septiembre P3 Doctor Liceaga M5 Orozco Y Berra L1
20 de Noviembre Q4 Doctor Mora N2 Paseo de la Reforma M2
Alfredo Chavero P6 Doctor Pascua N5 Pedro Moreno M1
Selected Street Index
Allende P1 Doctor Rafael Lucio M5 Pino Suárez Q4

Álvaro Obregón J6 Doctor Río de la Loza M4 Plaza Capitán R. Malpica N4
Angela Peralta N2 Doctor Salvador García Diego M6 Plaza Ciudadela M3
Antonio Solá G5 Doctor Vertiz N4 Plaza de la República L2
Arcos de Belén N4 Dolores N3 Plaza Garibaldi P1
Atenas L3 Donato Guerra M2 Plaza Hidalgo X2
Avenida 5 de Mayo P2 Donceles Q2 Plaza Madrid J5
Avenida Alfonso Reyes F6 Echeveste P4 Plaza Melchor Ocampo G2
Avenida Benito Juárez N2 Edison L2 Plaza Morelia L4
Avenida Chapultepec K4 Emilio Dondé M3 Plaza Popocatéptl H5
Avenida Colegio Militar D4 Enrico Martínez M3 Plaza Río de Janeiro K5
Avenida Cuauhtemoc L5 Esteva D6 Plaza San Fernando M1
Avenida de la República M2 Fernando Montes de Oca F5 Plaza Santo Domingo Q2
Avenida de los Constituyentes D5 Florencia J4 Polanco D2
Avenida Ejército Nacional F1 Francisco Díaz Covarrubias J2 Ponciano Arriaga L2
Avenida Francisco Ignacio Frontera L5 Popocatépetl H5
Madero P3 General León E5 Puebla K5
Avenida Francisco Sosa W2 General Pedro A. de los Santos E5 Puente de Alvarado L1
Avenida Guerrero M1 General Prim L3 Pugibet N3
Avenida Hidalgo N2 Glorieta de Insurgentes K5 Regina Q4
Avenida Horacio D1 Gómez Farías K2 República de Argentina Q1
Avenida Insurgentes Centro K3 González Obregón Q2 República de Brasil Q1
Avenida Insurgentes Norte L1 Gran Avenida E5 República de Chile Q1
Avenida Insurgentes Sur K4 Guanajuato L6 República de Colombia R2
Avenida Insurgentes Sur T2 Guillermo Prieto J2 República de Cuba P2
Avenida Mazatlán F5 Gutenberg F2 República de Guatemala R2
Avenida México W2 Hidalgo S3 República de Honduras P1
Avenida Michoacán F6 Ignacio Mariscal M2 República de Perú P1
Avenida Morelos L3 Ignacio Ramírez L2 República de Uruguay P3
Avenida Nuevo Leon G5 Ignaciol Vallarta L2 República de Venezuela R2
Avenida Oaxaca J6 Independencia N3 República del Salvador P3
Avenida Parque Lira D6 Isabel la Católica P3 Revillagigedo N3
Avenida Parque Vía Sullivan J2 Iturbide M2 Río Amazonas K3
Avenida Presidente Masarik D2 Jesús María R4 Río Atoyac G3
Avenida Revolución T2 Jesús Terán M2 Río de la Plata G3
Avenida Ribera de San Cosme K1 José Azueta N2 Río Elba G3
Avenida Río Churubusco W1 José Emparán M2 Río Guadalquivir G2
Avenida Sonora G4 José María Iglesia P4 Río Misisipí G3
Avenida Tamaulipas G6 Jose María Lafragua L2 Río Niágara G2
Avenida Universidad U3 José Tomas Cuellar P6 Río Nilo G3
Avenida Yucatán H5 José Vasconcelos F5 Río Pánuco J3
Balderas M2 Juan Escutia F5 Río Rhin J3
Berna J4 Justo Sierra R2 Río Tíber J4
Bolívar P5 Lancaster J4 Rodano F3
Boulevard Presidente Adolfo Laredo G5 Roldán R4
López Mateos C5 Lázaro Cárdenas P3 Roma L3
Calzada Chivatito D3 Leona Vicario R2 Rosales M2
Calzada del Cerro E4 Liverpool K4 Rosas Moreno K1
Calzada General Mariano Londres K4 Rubén Darío D2
Escobedo F2 López N3 Sadi Carnot K2
Calzada Mahatma Gandhi E4 Loreto R3 Salamanca G4
Calzada Melchor Ocampo J1 Luis Moya N3 San Antonio Abad Q5
Camino Al Desierto de Madrid L3 San Ildefonso R2
los Leones U2 Maestro Antonio Caso K2 San Jerónimo Q4
Campos Elíseos E2 Manuel María Contreras J2 San Pablo R4
Chimalpopoca N5 Manuel Villalongín J3 Santa Veracruz N2
Citlalteptl H5 Marconi P2 Seminario Q2
Colón M2 Marquez F5 Serapio Rendón K2
Condesa P2 Mérida L5 Sevilla G3
Copenhague K4 Mesones Q4 Shakespeare F1
Córdoba K5 Miguel Angel de Quevedo V3 Tabasco J6
Correo Mayor R3 Miguel Ramos Arizpé L2 Tacuba Q2
Darwin F2 Mina M1 Talavera R4
Diagonal 20 de Noviembre P5 Minerva la Rosa U1 Thiers F1
Diagonal Patriotismo F6 Molino del Rey C5 Venustiano Carranza P3
Doctor Andrade N5 Monte de Piedad Q2 Veracruz G4
Doctor Atl L1 Monterrey J5 Versalles L3
Doctor Claudio Bernard N5 Nápoles K4 Víctor Hugo F2
Doctor Enrique Gm L1 Newton C2 Victoria N3
Doctor Jiménez M6 Nezahualcóyotl P4 Zócalo Q3
128

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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

REPÚBLICA DE HONDURAS REPÚBLICA DE NICARAGUA

L.M . RGU Templo de REPÚBLICA

DEL TOR Santo BOLIVIA

MÍN GUEZ Palacio de la

Antigua Escuela REPÚBLI

UBA PLAZA CALLEJ

LEZ O Educación Pública

Allende DONC SAN IL

Spectacular Aztec ruins

e Museo q Antiguo Colegio

Best hotels for every budget

Liveliest music & dance venues

DER Zócalo (9) MONED

Most beautiful murals

Colorful local markets

Insider tips for every visitor

YOUR GUIDE TO THE 10 BEST OF EVERYTHING

Left Voladores, Museo Nacional de Antropología Right Catedral Metropolitana

The information in this DK Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guide is checked regularly.

Festivals and Events 60 Security and Health 108

Excursions 62 Banking and

Left Gardens, Castillo de Chapultepec Right Museo Frida Kahlo

MEXICO CITY’S TOP 10

Mexico City is endlessly surprising. With

Classical styles (see pp12–13).  'HO9DOOH

6 Preceding pages Main altar, Ex-Convento e Iglesia del Carmen,

5(3 %/,& $'(

5(3 %/,& $'(

021 7(' (3,

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$9 ( 1 , '$  '

Mexico City’s Top 10

&2 55( 20

ﬁnest artists, including Miguel Cabrera, José María

Velasco, Diego Rivera, and many others

& , 5 & 8 ,72

a stunning modern building. A dramatic central

Top 10 Features Carved pillar and water fountain

8 Designed by Pedro Ramírez Vázquez and completed in 1964, the

artifacts from the two This hall displays artifacts

Mexico City’s Top 10

& Maya Hall

In the garden of the Maya Hall is a reconstruction of Palenque’s 9

Left Model of Tenochtitlán’s Sacred Center Right Aztec stone head

Aztec or Mexica Hall

Mexico City’s Top 10

Share your travel recommendations on traveldk.com 11

of architectural styles. Begun in 1525 it was

The exterior of the

Metropolitana from the west wall of the

Mexico City’s Top 10

three virtues, Faith,

^ Altar de los Reyes

The cathedral was built on the site of an Aztec temple 13

constructed his own. The building has been

The rooftop ! Façade

14 There is a tradition of ringing the Independence Bell every

Mexico City’s Top 10

are held here.

The President’s ofﬁce, * Staircase

Sign up for DK’s email newsletter on traveldk.com 15

it. In 1978 a massive round carved stone was

Classical styles (see pp12–13). 'HO9DOOH

5(3 %/,& $'(

5(3 %/,& $'(

$9 ( 1 , '$ '

Bypass the street This museum designed by

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/=$ 5 2 &5 ' (1$6