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Publicado originalmente en la web el jueves 2 de junio de 2016.
Contenido modificado por última vez el sábado 9 de enero de 2021 .
Enlaces externos verificados por última vez el martes 13 de octubre de 2020.

Operación, resolución de
problemas, reparación del
limpiaparabrisas intermitente
(retraso) de Chrysler
1970s-1990s, Algunas Modelos

Lo Que No Te Contaron

La documentación en el manual de servicio de fábrica para estos

sistemas es bastante buena y hay información adicional en Internet que
es más útil. Aun así, hubo algunas cosas importantes/críticas que no
encontré. Esta página es mi intento de llenar los vacíos y espero ayudar a
alguien más.
This page covers the intermittent wiper system in my 1981 Dodge B-150
Ram Van with the green plastic “Intermittent Wipe Control” box part
number 4222060 (as stamped on the device). Note that the factory parts
list shows part number 4048375. I am absolutely certain that the green
plastic control unit is factory original in my vehicle. Some people call this
assembly the “relay” and there is a relay inside it, but also basic
electronic delay circuitry on a small P.C.B. Note that some details will
vary between my vehicle and others with different Intermittent Wipe
Control part numbers. The basic principles and some hopefully useful
information should remain the same. Wiper systems on vehicles where
the wipers park in a hidden position below the hood line (concealed)
work slightly differently: there is a different pause and park position. On
vans like mine the wipers are always visible (non-concealed), thus pause
and park are the same “all the way down” position.

TL;DR—Bottom Line
Perdí montañas de tiempo desarmando y jugando con la Unidad de
Control antes de tomarme el tiempo para entender el circuito. No había
nada malo con la unidad de control en absoluto . Mi problema se resolvió
limpiando todos los contactos en el circuito Dwell. En realidad, limpié los
contactos del conector en todo el interruptor del panel [1] , la unidad de
control y el motor. Además, el motor de mi limpiaparabrisas no había
funcionado durante mucho tiempo ( años ), por lo que simplemente hacer
funcionar el motor durante un tiempo puede haber limpiado los
contactos lo suficiente como para que comiencen a funcionar
nuevamente.
Puntos clave:

1. El contacto Dwell en el motor (en un conector separado) permanece

cerrado todo el tiempo que los limpiaparabrisas están en la posición de
reposo "estacionada".
2. The timer does not start until the wipers reach the “parked” position.
3. A good very low resistance on the Dwell switch when it is closed is
essential to proper operation. (Thanks to 440Power’s posts in this thread
on RamchargerCentral.com)

Full Principles of Operation, including What

They Didn’t Tell You
Some of the following repeats what is well known, in my own words.
Some i did not find covered anywhere. Here’s my slightly
adjusted/corrected scan of page 8-155 of the Chrysler 1981 Truck Service
Manual:
Low Speed Normal
+12V[2] is output on panel switch terminal A, feeding the L connection on
the motor. The P2 connection on the motor returns to the switch, where
in this setting it is grounded through the switch. Note that many
Chrysler wiring diagrams omit the connection between the Ground
wiper/LO contact and P2 on the switch. This messed me up for a long
time until i figured it out!

High Speed
High speed is never used for intermittent wiping, nor parking. +12V is
output on panel switch terminal A, feeding the L connection on the
motor, same as for Low speed. Yes, the L as in Low speed connection…
stay with me on this. The H terminal on the motor is directly connected to
ground through the switch and the P2 terminal is also connected to
ground through the diode on the switch.

Off/Park
The motor runs in reverse at low speed until it reaches its parking
position. Here’s how that works. In the Off position, the panel switch
supplies +12V out of the P1 terminal to the P1 terminal of the motor.
Assuming that the wipers are anywhere other than the park position
when the switch is turned off, the motor’s P1 terminal goes through its
internal Park switch contacts to the unmarked contact on the motor,
which is electrically the same as the motor’s P2 contact. Over at the panel
switch, P2 itself is open circuit. The A contact of the switch which
connects to the motor’s L terminal and supplies +12V in normal Low and
High speeds is instead switched to ground. This is similar to Low speed
except that the current passes through the motor’s internal Park switch
and the polarity is reversed, so the motor runs backwards.
As soon as the motor reaches its parking position, its internal Park switch
switches from the motor’s P1 contact to ground. At that point, both the
motor’s L terminal (which goes to switch terminal A) and the unmarked
motor terminal (which connects to the motor’s and panel switch’s P2
terminal) are both grounded and the motor is braked to a stop and stays
stopped.

Intermittent Wipe
Before getting into current flow detail, it is worth mentioning a few fine
points of operation that i did not consider until i read about them. I was
under the impression that clicking the panel switch into a delay position
started the delay timing. Wrong. The point was made (sorry, i did not save
the reference to the person who wrote it) that the driver almost always wants
the wipers to start immediately, then go into delay. This simulates
someone quickly flicking a non-delay wiper control On then back Off.
This is a key distinction for properly testing the Intermittent Wipe Control
Unit: the delay timing does not start until the initial wipe is finished. In
other words, in detail:

1. User turns control on to intermittent wipe.

2. Wipers wipe once, then park.
3. Delay timing starts as soon as the wipers park.
4. When the delay times out, the relay in the control unit activates the
wipers for another cycle. The process repeats until the panel switch is
adjusted.

Chrysler chose to use a separate Dwell switch on the motor. This switch
kinda sorta duplicates the operation of part of the Park switch, also inside
the motor: both the Dwell and Park switches close the circuit to ground
when the wiper blades are in the extreme down-most (parked) position of
their travel arc. The Dwell switch is critical to proper operation of the
intermittent wiping circuit! Here’s a schematic of the green-plastic-
enclosed 4222060 Intermittent Wipe Control Unit:
 +12V in
Delay mode Variable delay resistance
I1 0Ω to 330 kΩ (or so)
Dwell Switch
R

6 8 1
5 I2
Ground through
panel switch
in Delay mode
R1 24kΩ
R5 1kΩ Wiper Motor
R6 1kΩ
2&3 L P2
M
C1
+ 47µF
R2 100kΩ 25V
170Ω coil
CR4 Q1
R7 R8
CR2
68kΩ 110Ω
+

CR1 C3 R3 100kΩ
6µF 25V
7
Wash W
Momentary +12V CR5 R4 1kΩ Chrysler 4222060
as long as the Intermittent Wipe Control Unit
Wash switch +
is held C2
6µF 25V

Ground

Board Markings Relay CR1 N 186 949 Q1 National Semiconductor 914

Component side: 41-79 Airpax CR2 Motorola 7632
Foil side: US 3 27-0035 CR4 GI [did not remove to look at number. IN4000 style case]
7628B 029 CR5 [did not remove to look at number. IN4148 style case]

Four sub-circuits feed into a common point at resistor R8, leading to the
base of darlington transistor Q1, which does the actual switching of the
relay. R8, Q1, CR2, and the relay are shared in common between all
functions of the control unit. R8 is a current limiter to protect the
transistor. CR2 protects the transistor from inductive flyback pulses from
the relay coil.

Initial Startup: First Wipe

When the wipers are first put into intermittent mode, +12V is freshly
applied to control unit pin 6—the control circuit’s B+ line (to use very old
terminology). We cannot assume that the wipers have already been
running: they may be just now being turned on. If this is the case, the
dwell switch on the wiper motor is grounding out pin 1, preventing
current from flowing through R2, blocking that path for turning on Q1. C1
is going to take awhile to charge along the pin 8/R1/CR4 path, so we can’t
count on it to get things started, and the point of the exercise is a wipe
right away with no delay.
R6, C3, and R7 form a kick-start circuit. When the intermittent wipers are
first turned on (+12V is freshly applied to pin 6), these components create
a positive-going pulse through C3 and R7, to the common point. Q1 turns
on, closing the relay and getting the initial wipe started. Note that once C3
is fully charged up, it is blocking D.C. At that point, it, R6, R7, and CR1 are
no longer involved in the operation of the circuit. On the output side of
the Control Unit, the relay is activated, thus its wiper contact connects to
its normally-open contact, leading to pin 6—+12V in intermittent wiping
mode. The wiper contact connects to pins 2 & 3, which tie to the A lead of
the switch (not in the circuit in intermittent wiping mode) and the
motor’s L terminal. P2 is connected to ground through the panel switch in
all intermittent wipe settings, same as the LO speed on the panel switch,
completing the circuit for the motor to run at low speed (for a single wipe
when in Delay mode). As soon as the motor starts running, the dwell
switch opens, remaining open through the whole wipe cycle (one motor
revolution).
The relay remains activated (via current flow through R5 + R2) until the
Dwell switch on the motor grounds pin 1. This immediately cuts off
current flow through R2, cutting off any supply of current to the base of
Q1 and immediately opens the relay. The normally-closed relay contact
through pin 5 of the control circuit connects through the panel switch to
ground in all intermittent wiping settings, thus the motor’s reverse EMF
acts as a brake, stopping it faster (presumably so it does not overshoot the
park position).

Delay Timing
During the previous wipe, the positive end of C1 was charged up to +12V
via R5, with the negative end about three diode drops (CR4 and the
double base-emitter junction of darlington Q1) above ground—roughly
1.8V. The moment the dwell switch grounds out the positive end of C1, the
negative end of C1 slams to about -10.6V. CR4 prevents negative voltages
from discharging on any path through the common point effectively
isolating the charging path as follows. +12V passing through the variable
resistance inside the panel switch continues to exit the switch on
terminal R, connected to pin 8 of the control unit. The current passes
through R1, slowly charging C1 (eventually in reverse polarity, but don’t
worry about that—Chrysler engineers didn’t![3]). Eventually the voltage rises
high enough (approximately +1.8V) to turn on Q1 through CR4 and supply
+12V on the relay’s output to the wiper motor. The wipers do another
single wipe, opening the delay switch during the entire wipe sweep
(forward and back). Then once again the Dwell switch grounds out pin 1
and restarts the timer. The process repeats until the user changes the
control setting.

Continuous Wipe During Wash

One last function of the Intermittent Wipe Control Unit on intermittent-
wipe-equipped Chrysler vehicles of this era is keeping the wipers running
continuously on low speed during windshield washing, then dropping
back to whichever delay setting was previously in use once the Wash
function is released.
The Wash contact of the panel switch supplies +12V to the W terminal,
which connects to pin 7 (and to the windshield washer pump motor, which i’m
not covering). Directly through CR5 and R3 the +12V forces Q1 to stay on,
which keeps the relay energized and the wipers wiping.
There is an additional “extra wipe” once the Wash switch is released, per
the service manual. C2 appears to take care of this, all charged up via CR5
and R4 before the Wash switch was released. It discharges through R4,
R3, and R8, turning on Q1 for the one last wipe. After that, regular delay
mode resumes.

Testing
and Dwell switch adjustment/cleaning notes

In-Vehicle Testing Addendum

I am not going to repeat Chrysler’s excellent instructions in the factory
service manual (p. 8-151 to 8-155)—too much material with line drawings
and so on. I do however have one test refinement to add. They write:

Condition: Wipers Do Not Stop (continue running without

delay) when the Panel Switch is in Delay position
1. Place panel switch in low speed position. Remove wiring connector
from intermittent wipe dwell switch terminal on wiper motor (Fig.
21). Check continuity between the switch terminal and ground. Once
in every wipe cycle there should be continuity. Constant continuity or
constant open shows a faulty dwell switch in the motor.

Yes this test is important, however i feel it is insufficient. With many

meters, including mine, the continuity moment may display too briefly to
get a good sense of what is going on. As well, it’s not there long enough to
get a resistance measurement, and others have reported this failure from
the contacts working but there being too much resistance in the path for
the timer circuit to function properly. Without a solid ground for a long
enough time, the R5 + R2 path may not drop low enough long enough to
turn off Q1 and open the relay. The relay will stay closed and the motor
will keep running. Therefore, i recommend the following additional in-
vehicle test:

2. Under the conditions of step 1, place panel switch in the Off (park)
position. Allow the wiper motor to park itself. Measure the resistance
between the motor’s Dwell terminal and ground. If it is greater than
about 5Ω, you’re likely to have problems.

I made up the 5Ω number—it’s a guess. The threshold for my particular

control unit was 65Ω. I put a potentiometer in series with my test-bench
dwell switch, and this was the resistance on the edge of mis-operation
under laboratory conditions. Note that poor contacts leading to excessive
switch bounce may be a problem at lower resistances. Further note that
as resistance goes up, there is a human-noticeable delay before the relay
releases, when the dwell switch closes. Around 65Ω i noticed plenty of
time—a good half second or so—such that the momentum of the
motor/gear drive could easily keep the motor running long enough to re-
open the dwell switch contacts before the circuit dropped into timing
mode.
My particular wiper motor—working—measured 2.6Ω from the Dwell
terminal of the motor itself to one of the motor mounting bolts (i got
about the same result from the terminal to the negative battery terminal).
I should mention that the resistance readings under 10 ohms in this article have
been reality corrected. My Fluke 77 multimeter + its test leads have a residual
(self) resistance of 0.3Ω. Therefore when i write that it measured 2.6Ω, my meter
actually showed 2.9Ω. Every meter is different—be sure to check yours!
This is with having made no attempt to clean the dwell switch contacts
themselves, nor the motor’s grounding. I noticed that i could hear the
Control Unit relay bouncing: sometimes doing a double-click. I do not
recall having heard that in the past. I eventually decided that with
everything apart and all my tools out etc., i might as well redo the motor
ground and remove, clean, and adjust the motor’s Dwell Switch. The
combination of these two procedures dropped the resistance to 0.7Ω.
Anyone who’s skilled with an ohmmeter and wants to add higher
resistance values which still work or lower values which fail to our
collective knowledge, write me and i’ll see about adding your information
here.

Dwell Switch Notes

I did not take photos, but i do have a few notes about the dwell switch.
The white plastic switch assembly holds one (1) springy metal (phoshor
bronze? Something like that) contact, which goes to its terminal lug. The
actual contact surface is in the middle of the contact assembly. It looks
like it can work on either side, but at least in this motor, the active
contact is on the outside (facing away from the center of the motor).
There is a fixed contact inside the gear assembly which is rigidly fastened
to it. It does not come out and i made no attempt to remove nor adjust it.
In the Park position, the contacts are at rest and closed (normally closed).
When the motor runs, a plastic ring-like part high up in the gear
assembly pushes the movable dwell contact (the one which is removable,
on the white plastic base, a.k.a. the dwell switch proper) away from the
fixed contact, which is to say, in towards the center of the motor.
Therefore, the least amount of stress on the dwell switch is when it is
removed with the wiper motor parked.
Something else i noticed during this procedure is that, with my ohmmeter
connected, if i pushed the dwell terminal towards the outside of the
motor, the switch would open, even with the motor off and in park
position. There is not much play in the mounting of the dwell switch, but
there is a little, therefore i adjusted the switch to minimize this effect. In
other words, i adjusted it for most reliable and lowest resistance before
screwing it down, then re-tested it. Being on the edge of not working may
have been my original problem: it did not take much to open the circuit
with the motor parked.
 Site correspondent John M. corroborates and adds some sage contact
cleaning chemical advice:

My problem was “wipers continue running without delay when switch is

in the delay position”. I went straight to the dwell switch and found a
high and erratic resistance when closed.
The cause of the high resistance was the connector of the dwell switch. It
is actually made in two pieces, a copper piece and a bronze piece that are
riveted together. The rivet also holds this connector assembly in the
plastic body of the dwell switch.
The joint between these two pieces was loose and corroded. I cleaned
them and then soldered them together. Then I put the assembly back into
the body of the dwell switch using a machine screw in place of the rivet.
One further thing I recommend for getting low resistance contacts:
Stabilant 22. I have had much success with this product on mature
vehicles.

After all this, all the functions of the wiper switch are perfect. The closed
resistance of my dwell switch is 0.1 ohms, NOT correcting for the meter’s
residual resistance.

Impressive results indeed, on a lovely one-owner 1982 Plymouth Voyager

B150! (Note to self: time to try some Stabilant. Caig products aren’t always the
most suitable in all instances.)

Bench Testing Intermittent Wipe Control Unit

Algunos propietarios de vehículos que publican en otros sitios (como
440Power mencionado anteriormente) notan que su unidad de control no
fue la fuente de la falla, ¡y ciertamente no fue la mía! Recomiendo
encarecidamente buscar problemas en otro lugar: limpie todos los
contactos del conector, más los contactos del interruptor de permanencia,
más la conexión a tierra del motor. Si eso no soluciona el problema o por
cualquier otra razón está seguro de que desea probar su unidad, la
siguiente información puede ayudar. Puede ser más fácil probar con el
interruptor del panel (especialmente el retraso), pero no es necesario,
especialmente si tiene un potenciómetro de 330 kΩ o más disponible.
Necesitará:

1. Fuente de alimentación de 12 V CC (cualquiera de 10 a 15 V debería estar

bien)
2. Varios cables con pinzas de cocodrilo u otros medios de conexión de
cableado
3. Potenciómetro/resistencia variable de 330 kΩ o más, o el interruptor del
panel del vehículo
4. Algún tipo de interruptor SPST para actuar como el interruptor Dwell

También puede querer:

5. Una bombilla, medidor u otro indicador compatible con 12 VCC de

cuándo debería estar funcionando el motor del limpiaparabrisas
 6. Un segundo interruptor SPST momentáneo o regular para usar como
interruptor de lavado (o simplemente use el interruptor del panel del
vehículo)

Configuración
Elegí quitar la placa de circuito de la carcasa, principalmente porque no
había pensado las cosas de manera crítica y supuse que la electrónica
tenía fallas. Consulte a continuación las instrucciones de desmontaje si
también desea sacar la placa de su caja. Debido a que podía ver los
contactos del relé moviéndose, no fue necesario que conectara ningún
tipo de indicador de funcionamiento.

1. Conecte el común de la fuente de alimentación (que en adelante llamaré

"tierra") al pin 4 de la unidad de control.
2. Conecte el interruptor Dwell entre el pin 1 y tierra. Comience con el
interruptor en la posición cerrada.
3. Connect the Wash switch between pin 7 and +12V on the power supply if
you are using one (you could instead use a clip lead).
4. If you are using a motor run indicator, connect it between pin 3 of the
control unit and ground.
5. Prepare to connect +12V to pin 6 but don’t connect it yet. Or, turn off the
power source and connect it.

Testing

Initial Test
Apply power. The relay should immediately close. Leave the dwell switch
closed: the relay should open after about 1.6 seconds and stay off. This
proves that the kick-start circuit is operating properly. Remove power
and wait at least 10 seconds before the next test.
(Re-)Apply power. The relay should immediately close. When it does,
open the Dwell switch for about two seconds then close it again. The relay
should immediately open and stay open. This is an intentional external
failure mode: there is no variable resistance connected yet, therefore C1
cannot charge and the time delay is infinite. Remove power.

Full Delay Test

Connect variable resistance between +12V and pin 8, set to highest
resistance. Apply power and follow the steps of the initial test, leaving the
dwell switch closed. The relay will immediately close for about 1.6
seconds as before, then open. It will stay open for a wildly varying
amount of time, depending upon the charge of C1 and maybe other
factors. It will then close again and stay closed. Verify that this is what
happens. This simulates a shorted dwell switch.
Continuing from above, open the dwell switch for at least 2 seconds, then
close it again. This time the relay should immediately open when the
dwell switch is re-closed, then eventually close again in roughly 10 to 30
seconds, possibly longer if the resistance is higher than 330kΩ. When it
closes, again mimic the proper operation of the motor’s Dwell switch via
opening it for a couple of seconds (one wipe cycle) then closing it again,
repeating during the test. Adjust the variable resistor to a lower setting:
the delay should be shorter. At zero resistance there is basically no delay.

Wash Test
Set things up as for Full Delay Test, with maximum resistance (longest
delay) and the dwell switch closed. In addition add a Wash switch
between pin 7 and +12V (or simulate one with a clip lead or whatever).
During the time the Wash switch is activated, the relay should remain
closed, no matter what the Dwell switch is doing. When the Wash switch
is released, there should be one final wipe then the pre-existing delay
wiping should resume.

If any of the tests fail (and you are quite certain all your external wiring
and equipment is functioning properly), you have the choice of replacing
the Intermittent Wipe Control Unit or doing component-level
troubleshooting and repair of the one you have (beyond the scope of this
web page).

Removal of the Intermittent Wipe Control

Unit
This is one of those things which, at least for me, proved wholly,
completely, unnecessarily difficult. The control unit is a lightweight
device, held securely to the steering column by two #2 Philips-head
screws. Removing the lower trim is not my idea of recreation, but isn’t
bad. Holding in the two latch clips on the 8 cavity connector plugged into
the control unit and wiggling out the connector is the usual deal. The
problem was those two screws.
In a sane world, i would have been able to use one of several “trick”
angled screwdrivers i have to unscrew the screws and get the unit out
without further disassembly. Nope… the screws were installed too tightly.
So, i had the extra pleasure of disassembling the dashboard. Conveniently
there was just enough of a gap for me to get my lovely Snap-On SSDP 216
extra-long Philips #2 screwdriver onto the screw heads with a nice
straight shot. Nope… thought i was going to torque the screwdriver blade
beyond reason, and the screws were not cracking/budging.
Disconnected the battery (grumble), removed the instrument cluster
(grumble, gripe, grumble). Now there was nothing in the way of my
having a nice, clear shot for my vintage Fiskars Screwball
interchangeable-tip screwdriver with the wonderful rubbery handle to
do the job. Those screws were in there crazy-tight: it took every bit of
strength i had to crack them free (then unscrew them normally)! The
installer must have had a torquey power driver set to Stun when s/he
drove those two screws home! There is absolutely no reason for that
much torque on fasteners holding such a lightweight, non-moving, not-
critical-if-it-shifts device! Maybe the dendrites between the screw and
chassis bracket metal grew to love one another over the years more than
usual. Whatever the cause, those two screws were bastards to get out.
All of this is my way of saying if you are just starting troubleshooting and
are not certain that the control unit is defective, don’t remove the
control unit! Search the WWW/Internet first for the many anecdotes of
people who have replaced their control units and found that doing so
failed to fix the problem. If you do have a legitimate need to get the box
out, prepare for possible unnecessary difficulty.

Desmontaje de la unidad de control de

limpieza intermitente
Sacar la placa de circuito impreso de la caja verde de la unidad de control
es bastante fácil. Algunos de ustedes sabrán cómo hacer esto a través de
la experiencia previa y/o la intuición mecánica. Nunca está de más tener
un control de cordura, así que esto es lo que hice, con imágenes:

1. Haga palanca con cuidado en el borde de la cubierta negra para separarlo

del pestillo de sujeción de la caja verde.

2. Levante la cubierta negra en el extremo de palanca lo suficiente para que

las lengüetas laterales despejen la caja verde y extraiga la cubierta negra,
separándola del conector.

3. Saque la placa de circuito de la misma manera y desde el mismo lado que

la cubierta negra. Este pestillo es más rígido: flexione la carcasa, no la
 PCB

4. Retire la PCB de manera similar a como se retiró la cubierta negra,

excepto que no hay otros pestillos/ganchos (no hay imagen de esto)

Cuando todo esté dicho y hecho, esto es lo que tendrás:

 Notice the lip on the black cover. This presses against the connector edge
of the P.C.B., holding it in place. When it comes time to reassemble the
control unit, be sure this lip is inside (near the P.C.B.) and at the connector
end.
I found that my control unit rattled when reassembled and remounted to
the steering column. It probably did so before and i did not notice. I like
to minimize the amount of noise in my van (as if!) whenever possible.
Therefore, i applied small dabs of hot-melt glue to each corner of the
P.C.B.-green case interface, then quickly reinserted the black cover. The
glue was still soft enough to adhere to the cover as well (on the inside),
making for a nice, tight, rattle-free package. Because the two fastening
screws are at the same end, there can also be a bit of rattle of the overall
case at the end opposite the screws. I hot glued a thin strip of rubber i
had lying around to this opposite end. The final result is much quieter
than before. Will it matter in a noisy vehicle? Probably not, but i figure
every little bit helps.
[1] “Panel switch” is what Chrysler calls the washer/wiper user control assembly on the
dashboard. A synonym would be the control switch. If i fail to mention some other
switch in this article, like the Park switch or the Dwell switch, i’m talking about the
panel switch.
[2] Throughout this article i am using +12V to indicate vehicle battery/alternator power.
Clearly the actual voltage will vary over the usual range of the vehicle’s electrical
system. Think of it as B+ or main power or whatever else you like, if you prefer.
[3] Estoy seguro de que los ingenieros de Chrysler investigaron y tomaron en cuenta las
consideraciones del mundo real con respecto a la polaridad inversa a baja corriente
durante un tiempo limitado en C1. El hecho de que muchos de estos circuitos continúen
funcionando más de 35 años después de su fabricación es un testimonio tanto de su
trabajo de diseño como de la calidad de los capacitores. Cuando el modo de retraso
funciona correctamente, C1 pasa la mayor parte del tiempo con la polaridad correcta,
por lo que los ingenieros de Chrysler hicieron lo correcto.

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