Documentos de Académico
Documentos de Profesional
Documentos de Cultura
9 789561 704688
Cultura Puzzle culturapuzzle.com
Idea y desarrollo de contenidos
Montserrat Madariaga Caro
Edicin y redaccin de textos
Carolina Cornejo Aravena
Gestin y coordinacin de proyecto
Sonra sonriaimagen.com
Raiza Vera Ugas
Fotografas
Ernesto Iturrieta Andrades
Direccin de arte y diseo
Editorial
Ediciones Universitarias de Valparaso
Pontificia Universidad Catlica de Valparaso
www.euv.cl
2
Valparaso
Capital Cultural
3
4
ndice
Index
5
HISTORIA, TRADICIONES Y EXPRESIONES Lukas
ARTSTICAS / HISTORY, TRADITIONS AND Lukas 81
ARTISTIC EXPRESSIONS 14
Loro Coirn
Breve Historia Urbana de Valparaso Loro Coirn 86
A Brief Urban History of Valparaso 16
Arte Callejero
Tradiciones Street Art 87
Traditions 28
Msica
Celebraciones Music
Celebrations
Puerto de entrada a la msica
La noche de ao nuevo A point of entry for music 90
New Years Eve 30
La Cueca Portea
Fiesta de San Pedro The Cueca Portea 95
Saint Peters Festival 34
La joya del Pacfico: un himno porteo
La Quema de Judas La joya del Pacfico: a port hymn 98
Burning of Judas 38
Fotografa y Cine
Costumbres Photography and Film
Customs
Distrito Fotogrfico
Ciudad Legendaria Photography District 100
The Legendary City 42
Las miradas de Lang y Quintana
El Emporio de barrio The photographic look of Lang
The neighborhood emporium 48 and Quintana 104
6
VALPARASO POR ZONAS Ascensor Florida Edificio Unin Obrera
VALPARASOS NEIGHBORHOODS 136 Florida elevator 163 Workers Union Building 200
7
Frente al mar
8
Facing the sea
9
Agradecimientos
Quisiramos agradecer a la Ilustre Mu- chivo Histrico; el Programa Memoria do Couve, Cristin Morales Moya, Andrs
nicipalidad de Valparaso, organizadora Chilena, dependiente de la Direccin de Aguiluz, Toms Fernndez, Lucho Costa,
del III Frum Universal de las Culturas Bibliotecas y Museos, DIBAM, y la Red Csar Pincheira y Jorge Villa; o fotogra-
Valparaso-Chile 2010, y Gobierno Re- de Archivos Patrimoniales de Valparaso, fas de sus archivos personales como
gional por su aporte al financiamiento ARPA, que apoyaron nuestra iniciativa y Carlos Raggio, Lautaro Trivio H., Silvia
de este libro; en especial, al Secretario ofrecieron sus plataformas de difusin. Ruehl y Ariel Vera; tambin, quienes nos
Ejecutivo, Carlos Briceo, y a la Coordi- cedieron imgenes de sus trabajos ar-
nadora General, Claudia Ulloa, por su No podemos dejar de agradecer a las tsticos como Eduardo Mena, Salvador
temprano inters en nuestra propuesta entidades que nos facilitaron imgenes Amenbar, Gonzalo Ilabaca y Thierry
y confianza durante todo el proceso. A su de archivo para ser incluidas en el libro: Defert.
vez, queremos dar las gracias a Edicio- el Club de Deportes Santiago Wande-
nes Universitarias de la Pontificia Uni- rers; el Via del Mar Lawn Tennis Club; Tambin corresponde agradecer a quie-
versidad Catlica de Valparaso, por su la Primera Compaa de Bomberos de nes compartieron informacin valiosa
colaboracin, contribucin como finan- Valparaso, Bomba Americana; el Cuer- para la construccin de los textos: Ana
cista y por albergar esta publicacin bajo po de Voluntarios de los Botes Salvavi- Tirado, Joel Prez, Vctor Rojas, Omar
su sello de calidad. Tambin agradece- das de Valparaso; la Fundacin Renzo Carvajal, Thierry Defert, Tombo, inte-
mos al Programa de Recuperacin y De- Pecchenino-Lukas; el Programa Nacio- grantes de la Isla de la Fantasa, Ariel
sarrollo Urbano de Valparaso, PRDUV, nal Escuelas de Rock, del Departamento Vera, Ricardo Lang, Marcia Orell, Valeria
por apoyarnos desde un comienzo. de Ciudadana y Cultura del Consejo Na- Sarmiento, Silvio Caiozzi, Poldy Valen-
cional de la Cultura y las Artes; el Fondo zuela, Sara Vial, Alejandro Rodrguez,
Otras importantes entidades que res- Margot Loyola de la Pontificia Univer- Ennio Moltedo, Helen Flores, Cristbal
paldaron nuestra publicacin fueron sidad Catlica de Valparaso; Trinacrio Gaete, Vctor Hugo Bustamante, Carlos
Plan Rumbo, Plan Estratgico para el Ltda; el Archivo Central Andrs Bello, de Fierro y Gride Ballesteros.
Destino Valparaso, que colabor con la la Universidad de Chile; el Archivo Hist-
insercin de mapas tursticos en el li- rico Jos Vial Armstrong, de la Escuela Del mismo modo, quisiramos dar las
bro; el Consejo Superior de Turismo de de Arquitectura y Diseo de la Pontificia gracias al equipo que hizo posible este
Valparaso, patrocinador del proyecto; la Universidad Catlica de Valparaso; la proyecto, a Fernando Vergara Bentez,
Direccin de Bibliotecas Pblicas de la productora audiovisual Andrea Films; Conservador del Fondo Histrico Patri-
Regin de Valparaso, gracias a la cual el Archivo del Escritor, de la Biblioteca monial de la PUCV; a Raiza Vera Ugas y
la publicacin est disponible para toda Nacional de Chile; el Diario La Nacin; la Ernesto Iturrieta Andrades de Sonra; a
la ciudadana en las bibliotecas estatales compaa Teatro de la Historia; la com- la periodista Mara Isabel Barroilhet Ti-
de nuestra zona; la Direccin de Desa- paa Teatro La Peste; el Centro Cultural rado; al traductor George Barrios Harri-
rrollo Cultural de la Ilustre Municipali- Teatro Container; y Escenalborde Artes son; a nuestro corrector de textos Rubn
dad de Valparaso, que nos cedi su es- Escnicas Contemporneas. Dalmazzo Peillard; y al arquitecto lvaro
pacio para realizar el lanzamiento oficial Muoz Hansen.
del libro; la Radio Valentn Letelier, 97.3 Asimismo, fue muy importante la co-
FM, que colabor con la campaa de di- laboracin de quienes amablemente Por ltimo, agradecemos de manera
fusin de Valparaso, Capital Cultural; la nos permitieron publicar imgenes de especial a nuestras familias y amigos.
Armada de Chile, entidad que nos aport su autora, como Marianela Astudillo,
con informacin y fotografas de su Ar- Rubn Bastas, Arturo Chadwick, Eduar-
10
Acknowledgements
We would like to thank the Illustrious the Library and Museum Administration, Cristin Morales Moya, Andrs Aguiluz,
Municipality of Valparaiso, for organi- DIBAM, and The Net of Heritage Archives Toms Fernndez, Lucho Costa, Csar
zing the III Universal Forum of Cultures of Valparaiso, ARPA, that supported our Pincheira and Jorge Villa; or photogra-
in Valparaiso-Chile 2010 and Gobierno initiative and offered their diffusion pla- phs from their personal archives from
Regional, for its financial support of this tforms. Carlos Raggio, Lautaro Trivio H., Silvia
book; especially the Chief Secretary Car- Ruehl and Ariel Vera; also those who
los Briceo and the General Coordinator We also cannot leave out the entities provided images of their artistic works
Claudia Ulloa, for their early interest in that provided archival images inclu- were Eduardo Mena, Salvador Amen-
our proposal and confidence throughout ded in the book: The Santiago Wande- bar, Gonzalo Ilabaca and Thierry Defert.
the entire process. Likewise, we would rers Sporting Club; The Via del Mar
like to thank Ediciones Universitarias of Lawn Tennis Club; The First Fire Com- We would also like to thank those who
the Pontifical Catholic University of Val- pany of Valparaiso, The American Fire shared valuable information for the
paraiso, for their collaboration, financial Company; The Lifeboat Volunteer Sea construction of our texts: Ana Tirado,
contribution and for launching this publi- Rescue Squad of Valparaiso; The Ren- Joel Prez, Vctor Rojas, Omar Carva-
cation under their seal of quality. We also zo Pecchenino-Lukas Foundation; The jal, Thierry Defert, Tombo, participants
thank the Valparaiso Restoration and Ur- National School of Rock Program, of the of the Isla de la Fantasa, Ariel Vera,
ban Development Program, PRDUV, for Citizenry and Culture Department of the Ricardo Lang, Marcia Orell, Valeria Sar-
supporting us since the beginning. National Council of the Arts and Culture; miento, Silvio Caiozzi, Poldy Valenzuela,
The Margot Loyola Fund from the Pon- Sara Vial, Alejandro Rodrguez, Ennio
Other important entities that backed our tifical Catholic University of Valparaiso; Moltedo, Helen Flores, Cristbal Gaete,
publication were Plan Rumbo, a Strategic The Andrs Bello Central Archive, of the Vctor Hugo Bustamante, Carlos Fierro
Plan for the Destination Valparaiso, which University of Chile; The Jos Vial Arms- and Gride Ballesteros.
collaborated on the insertion of tourism trong Historical Archive, of the Architec-
maps in the book; The Tourism Council ture and Design School of the Pontifical We would like to thank as well the team
of Valparaiso, endorsing the project; The Catholic University of Valparaiso; the that made this project possible, Fernan-
Region of Valparaiso Public Library Ad- audiovisual producer Andrea Films; The do Vergara Bentez, curator of the Histo-
ministration, which has made this publi- Authors Archive, of the Chilean National rical Heritage Fund of the PUCV; Raiza
cation available to the entire citizenry in Library; La Nacin Newspaper; The Tea- Vera Ugas and Ernesto Iturrieta Andra-
state libraries in the region; The Cultural tro de la Historia Theater Company; The des de Sonra; the journalist Mara Isabel
Development Administration of the Illus- Teatro La Peste Theater Company; The Barroilhet Tirado; the translator George
trious Municipality of Valparaiso, which Teatro Container Cultural Center; and Barrios Harrison; our editor Rubn Dal-
offered us the use of their space for the Escenalborde Artes Escnicas Contem- mazzo Peillard; and the architect lvaro
official launching of the book; The Valen- porneas. Muoz Hansen.
tn Letelier Radio, 97.3 FM, which colla-
borated in the diffusion of Valparaiso, The Furthermore, an important collabo- Lastly, a special thanks to our families
Cultural Capital; The Chilean Navy, entity ration was made by people who kindly and friends.
that provided information and photogra- allowed us to publish their own images,
phs from their Historical Archives; The such as Marianela Astudillo, Rubn Bas-
Chilean Memory Program, dependent of tas, Arturo Chadwick, Eduardo Couve,
11
Prlogo
12
Prologue
Valparaso, The Cultural Capital was life is lived in Valparaiso when the right
conceived in the context of the III Uni- moment is captured on film.
versal Forum of Cultures in the city of
Valparaso, we consider it to be primor- Within this second part, we invite our
dial that an event of this nature have a readers to wander through the city,
publication that disseminates the cultu- while keeping in mind the way its inha-
ral legacy of its inhabitants. At Cultura bitants live. The intention here is that
Puzzle we wanted to accomplish this tourism landmarks be appreciated wi-
task by giving the book an ample, clear thin their surroundings.
and current focus. Although, more im-
portant, an understanding of heritage In a few words, Valparaso, The Cultural
as something that is alive, which trans- Capital aims at exposing the pieces that
forms with the passing of time, adding make up the cultural heritage of the
new meanings and throwing away other city, although we were unable to cover
ones; after all, it depends on people. all of them.
In the first part of the book, we sought Behind this book is the spirit of Cultu-
a way to integrate the citys past with its ra Puzzle, which seeks to promote the
present, showing the development of its gain in value of the citys heritage from
cultural practices through time. Our aim an integrating perspective, that recog-
was to show the transversal elements nizes its different dimensions cultural,
of Valparaisos identity, without being social, economical and urban, among
partial to a conservative view or, on the others. We appeal to a legacy that is
contrary, ignoring old traditions that are constantly under construction, thus we
still in use today. believe that when planning a city it is
important to keep in mind and unders-
In the second part, we made an empha- tand the way people live there. It is the
sis on the inhabitant and their environ- conviction of Cultura Puzzle that without
ment. For this, we divided the city into the inhabitant there is no heritage.
five areas, which are easily distinguis-
hable because of their apparent uses Carolina Cornejo Aravena
and urban traits. We wanted to expose Montserrat Madariaga Caro
the identifying traits that are still cu- Cultura Puzzle
rrent, not only through the use of words,
but also using photographs, because
there is no better medium to show how
13
Historia,
Tradiciones y
Expresiones
Artsticas
History,
Traditions
and Artistic
Expressions
15
1621. Grabado del navegante holands Joris Spielbergen, que ilustra un ataque a la baha de Valparaso.
militar: La Matriz (1559) y la Batera de za en el fondeadero de la baha. daos al sector de la Iglesia La Matriz y
San Antonio o Castillo Viejo (1594), res- de la Orden de Santo Domingo.
pectivamente. Respecto a La Matriz, Conseguir grados crecientes de auto-
algunos la han descrito como iglesia noma respecto a los territorios y las De alguna manera, la presencia de estas
pajiza o, literalmente, como choza que jurisdicciones vecinas, as como ganar- rdenes religiosas confirma la idea de la
sirvi de parroquia. Del castillo, ubicado le terreno al mar y revertir el abandono anterioridad e importancia de la ciudad
al pie del actual Cerro Artillera, no sue- y el desamparo en que se encuentra la cristiana en el desarrollo urbano de Val-
len destacarse sus ventajas al servicio ciudad parecen ser los elementos carac- paraso. Una aldea de frailes y caones,
de la seguridad y defensa de la baha. tersticos de Valparaso en sus primeros han dicho algunos. Y es que, en 1678, se
siglos. concluyen los trabajos de edificacin del
La ciudad portuaria y cosmopolita que Fuerte de La Concepcin, ubicado entre
se hace mundialmente conocida en el si- En la segunda dcada del siglo XVII, la las Quebradas del Almendro y de Elas,
glo XIX, se encuentra superpuesta sobre Orden de San Agustn consolida lo que en el actual cerro del mismo nombre.
una ciudad anterior, mucho ms modes- ser la toponimia religiosa del anfiteatro, Aos ms tarde (1692), otra fortificacin
ta, inestable y comnmente invisible, que instalndose en una de las quebradas queda operativa: el Fuerte o Castillo de
se fue construyendo y en ocasiones re- del sector puerto. A mediados de siglo, San Jos (Castillo Blanco), emplazado
construyendo en los siglos coloniales, la Orden de San Francisco se instala en entre las Quebradas de San Francis-
en torno a la urbanizacin que desarro- Valparaso con un hospicio. Hacia la d- co y de San Agustn, en el actual Cerro
llaron las diferentes rdenes religiosas cada de 1660, los franciscanos contaban Cordillera. El propsito segua siendo el
(con su temprana arquitectura religiosa); con el convento que estaba ubicado en mismo: rechazar las agresiones de na-
el incipiente trnsito entre esta porcin la actual quebrada del mismo nombre. ves extranjeras y mejorar la defensa de
del territorio y la capital del pas; y al flu- Posteriormente, se instala la Iglesia San la ciudad puerto.
jo de mercancas y de naves que se reali- Francisco del Puerto en los terrenos ale-
1911. Vista del Arco Britnico. Postal de los editores Mattensohn & Grimm.
Plaza de la Justicia con el Paseo Yugos- A fines del XIX, Valparaso asiste al ms la Comandancia de la Armada en la Pla-
lavo, en el Cerro Alegre. amplio trabajo de rellenos y ocupacin za Sotomayor, la Avenida Pedro Montt,
del borde costero para conseguir suelo la ampliacin de la Plaza de la Merced
De la mano del acero, de la electrici- artificial, empresa que allan el cami- (actual Plaza OHiggins).
dad, la turbina, la balanza de agua o el no para trazar, en las dcadas siguien-
vapor, se multiplican las excavaciones y tes, importantes arterias como Avenida Un conjunto selecto de proyectos ur-
los terraplenes; estructuras metlicas y Blanco, Avenida Brasil y Avenida Err- banos de gran significado para la ciu-
de madera se adaptan a las pendientes; zuriz. dad se materializaron en la dcada de
se instalan las respectivas maquina- 1920. Cabe destacar: la culminacin del
rias, cables de traccin, vagones y las Con la llegada del siglo XX, el progreso abovedamiento del Estero Las Delicias
estaciones bajas/altas. Junto a las ne- no se detiene y los desastres naturales (actual Avenida Argentina); el camino
cesidades funcionales de los aparatos, tampoco. El terremoto de 1906 afec- plano que une al Puerto con Via del
el proyectista posiciona la estacin alta t considerablemente el mobiliario y Mar (actual Avenida Espaa); la Avenida
como un mirador preferente para cap- los edificios del plan de la ciudad. Sin Baquedano que sube al Cerro Florida
turar la panormica del anfiteatro y, de embargo, hechos tan dismiles como y que une Avenida Francia con Avenida
esta manera, esta oferta tecnolgica el terremoto de 1906 y la celebracin Alemania; la Avenida Errzuriz y el ac-
trada de Europa, contribuye a impri- del Centenario de 1910 estimularon la tual Molo de Abrigo; el Edificio Agustn
mirle una nueva fisonoma a la ciudad. modificacin del centro urbano: tal es Edwards (conocido como Reloj Turri); el
Como ha sealado recientemente un el caso del ascensor Villaseca (1907), Hospital Naval de Playa Ancha y el pe-
investigador (Samuel Len, 2010) co- La Cruz (1908), Larran (1909), El San- rmetro actual de la Plaza Sotomayor,
mienza a materializarse la idea de un to Domingo (1910) o el Espritu Santo por mencionar algunos. Junto a estas
Valparaso entre rieles. (1911). Del mismo modo, los ya conoci- obras, habra que sumar dos conjuntos
dos Arco Britnico, el actual Edificio de universitarios contemporneos: la Pon-
Probablemente, la celebracin de un
nuevo centenario no sea tan fecunda
como lo fue la anterior, en materia de
obras pblicas y privadas. Previo al te-
An atypical city is what most people in a naturally formed amphitheater, the described La Matriz as a straw church
who have proposed narrating about this city is characterized by its traditional or literally a shack that served as the
place have to say about it. Atypical, in urban weave that adapted to the encom- Parrish. On the other hand, the Castillo,
relation to the rest of the countrys ci- passing hills, which contrasts with the located at the foothills of Cerro Artille-
ties, for its topographic traits, its urban geometric terrain used on the city plain. ria, provided an advantageous service of
planning and above all, because of its Within its urban landscape, the city is security and defense of the bay, all but
origins. In fact, the city was never foun- blessed with the formal unity of a great forgotten now.
ded, nor is there an existing document variety of church steeples. The city has
that proves this; then the question beg- also preserved interesting structures The cosmopolitan port city that beca-
ging to be asked is: when was the city of from the start of the industrial era, for me world famous in the 19th century
Valparaiso born? example, the many funiculars that tra- is juxtaposed to an earlier city, which
vel along the steep hillsides. was more modest, unstable and com-
Most historians cite Juan de Saavedra, monly invisible. This city was built, and
who was deputy captain of the Spanish Using this argument as a guide, the in some cases rebuilt, in the colonial
conquistador Diego de Almagro, as the citys own urban history can correct or era, according to the urbanization that
first to discover and name Valparaiso confirm the ideas expressed in this par- was developed by the different religious
circa 1536. So old and controversial is ticular portrayal of Valparaiso. orders (with its early religious architec-
this matter, that for the present purpo- ture), the incipient traffic between this
se of recounting a brief urban history of First is the 16th century, with the dis- region and the capital of the country and
the city, the reader should be warned covery and claiming of the Quintil Valley by the flow of goods to the ships that an-
that citys urban development does not and the bay. This period is known more chored in the bay.
run parallel with its officially documen- through pirate history, from those who
ted historical facts. pillaged this village, than through the The elemental characteristics of Valpa-
organized occupation of lands that were raiso in its first couple of centuries, was
Likewise, the reader should also con- claimed for those who participated in to attain a growing degree of autonomy
sider an argument from an authority in the Spanish conquest. with respect to the other territories and
the matter. When the UNESCO included neighboring provinces, as well as gai-
Valparaisos historic quarters to the The most significant works, which ning land over the sea and reverting
World Heritage Sites (2003) it pointed out brought order to the small initial popu- the abandonment and neglect that was
that the colonial city of Valparaiso is a lation, was first a religious construction: rampant in the city.
noteworthy example of urban and archi- La Matriz Chapel (1559) and the other
tectural development in Latin America, was the San Antonio Artillery Battery or In the second decade of the 17th cen-
at the end of the 19th century. Located Castillo Viejo (1594). Some people have tury, the Order of San Agustn consoli-
Traditions
Traditions 29
30 Tradiciones
Celebraciones
Celebrations
LA NOCHE DE AO NUEVO
Traditions 31
Fotografa de Tom Parker.
Luego de la pirotecnia viene la fiesta. cipalidad organiza un espectculo mu-
Con cotilln en mano, es comn que sical con bandas en vivo hasta entrada
la gente comparta con desconocidos la madrugada.
en medio de carcajadas y abrazos. La
mayora de los bares, restaurantes y Para terminar los festejos, la tradicin
discotecas estn abiertos toda la noche, dicta recuperar las energas con un buen
pero una gran cantidad de personas desayuno de mariscos: pailas marinas,
prefiere pasar la velada circulando por chupes y empanadas, en los mercados,
los cerros y el plan, subiendo y bajando picadas costeras y restaurantes. Luego,
escaleras o bailando en plazas y pasa- una siesta para empezar bien el ao.
jes, pues es comn encontrar msicos
tocando desde tangos a ritmos africa-
nos. Y en la Plaza Sotomayor, la muni-
32 Tradiciones
NEW YEARS EVE
On New Years Eve, Valparaiso is one big block party. Neighbors and visitors from
Chile and all over the world come together on the streets, squares and scenic
viewpoints. The countdown gets everyone excited, glasses clink as people toast
to the New Year, many hug each other vigorously and everyone looks up to the
sky to see the fireworks, which has been a tradition in the port for more than one
hundred years.
There are nearly one million people to the Caleta Portales cove. Valparaisos to reenergize the body such as a paila
who walk about the streets on the night inhabitants and their visitors also make marina, chupe or empanadas, which
of the 31st of December. Everyone finds good use of roof decks, stairwells, steep are served in market places, seaside
their own space in the natural amphi- streets and even boats out at sea to get shacks and restaurants. The last thing
theater formed by the geography of Val- a view of the fireworks. Undoubtedly, left to do is to have a good nap to kick off
paraiso, many of whom settle right on the most interesting occurrence is the the New Year.
the shoreline to see one of the most im- use of these spaces with tables, chairs,
portant pyrotechnic shows in the world. boom boxes and even charcoal burning
The 2010 New Years celebration used grills. New Years Eve in Valparaiso is
20 tons of fireworks, which were fired celebrated on the streets with family,
from 17 different points along a 21-ki- friends and neighbors and everyone
lometer stretch of coastline. Valparaiso tries to hold their place without an inch
and its neighboring cities Via del Mar to spare. John Thomas Seal, an Ameri-
and Concon were lit for over 25 minu- can in Valparaiso described the expe-
tes as the sea changed colors, reflecting rience in his own words: Its as if you
the figures which were fired into the sky. rang out a sponge to get all the water
According to the experts, Valparaisos out; the buildings are the sponges and
fireworks are up to par with the best in the people are the water.
the world, these being London, Sidney
and Rio de Janeiro. The party starts after the pyrotechnic
show. It is common to see complete
Launching fireworks into the sky to re- strangers partying together, laughing
ceive the New Year has been a tradition and hugging each other. Most of the
in the port since 1875, when a French- citys bars, restaurants and discothe-
man M. Pierran was put in charge of set- ques stay open all night, although many
ting the fireworks off anchored ships in revelers prefer to party while walking
the bay. In 1952 this tradition was made about the hills and the historic quar-
official and as of 1962 it has been the ters of the city, climbing up and down
Municipalitys responsibility to ensure the hills or dancing in the squares and
the tradition is kept alive in Valparaiso. in narrow streets, as it is very likely to
hear live music such as tango and Afri-
The most coveted places to watch the fi- can rhythms. At the Plaza Sotomayor
reworks are those with an ample view of Square the Municipality hosts a live
the sea; on the hills, the Gervasoni, Yu- band show that lasts all night long.
goslavo, Atkinson, Baron and 21 de Mayo
promenades; in the city, the extensive As the partying winds down, tradition
coastline which goes from Playa Ancha dictates a hearty seafood breakfast
Traditions 33
Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas
34
Tradiciones
FIESTA DE SAN PEDRO
Si bien siempre ha mantenido el carc- de danzantes, instrumentos musicales, gunas ocasiones, se saluda el paso de la
ter popular, no hay consenso en datar cantos y rezos, se dirigen hacia la Igle- procesin y el cortejo de embarcaciones
su fecha de inicio. Algunos investiga- sia de Lourdes, en el Cerro Placeres, con destellos de espejos que provienen
dores han sealado que, en la Colonia, para luego retornar a la Caleta. de los cerros del anfiteatro.
ya se festejaba al Apstol. La cronista
Mara Graham se lamenta en su diario En el caso de Caleta El Membrillo, En la actualidad, el club de pescadores
(1822) que se haya abolido esta costum- luego de una misa en una capilla o pa- y las organizaciones sindicales de Ca-
bre de sacar de La Matriz la estatua del rroquia preestablecida en Playa Ancha, leta El Membrillo organizan una cena
Santo, subirla a una goleta debidamente se procede a pasear la imagen de San bailable. La festividad comienza con
ornamentada y, ya en el mar, visitar dis- Pedro en andas por las calles del ba- una misa y concluye avanzada la tarde-
tintos puntos en la baha, recibiendo el rrio, algunas adornadas con guirnaldas. noche con la tradicional venta de pesca-
saludo de los feligreses y vecinos con pe- Tanto la imagen del pescador como la do frito y otras actividades gastronmi-
tardos y bocinas. Aunque esta no fue la de la Virgen Mara son adornadas de cas que tienen por objeto festejar a los
ltima ocasin en que se suprimi, con flores y banderillas de colores. Luego, la grupos de baile que han participado de
el tiempo la celebracin fue repuesta. caravana recibe el saludo de los pesca- la procesin y deleitar a la enorme can-
dores apostados en la caleta y se dirige tidad de visitantes que llegan al Puerto
El propsito de esta fiesta es agradecer al Muelle Prat, donde se embarcan las en busca de la festividad.
por la vida y la buena pesca, o pagar imgenes. Acompaan el trayecto por la
una manda por algn favor concedido, ciudad algunos sacerdotes y autorida-
pero tambin se pide por la proteccin des eclesisticas, diversas asociaciones
en alta mar, por la salud de los pesca- de bailes chinos, familiares de los pes-
dores y sus familias y por la abundancia cadores, algunas bandas escolares, au-
en el trabajo. Un pescador que se casa toridades civiles, la banda instrumental
con La Mara (nombre con el que se de la Armada de Chile, gran cantidad de
Traditions 35
SAINT PETERS FESTIVAL
There are many diverse activities organized by more than thirty artesian
fishermen piers in the region, all honoring their patron saint, Saint Peter.
Celebrated during the last weekend in June, this festival in Valparaiso has a
long-standing tradition in the life of the fishermen in this bay.
good health of the fishermen and their the fishermen, school bands, govern-
families and for the abundance of work. ment authorities, the Navys marching
A fisherman who weds La Maria (the band, and many singing tourists and
name denominates the Sea in popular neighbors.
jargon) must always give thanks and
Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas
greet the patron saint on his day. The most attractive part of the festi-
val is the procession at sea. Nearly one
In Valparaisos case, the original orga- hundred boats are decorated in vibrant
nization (there are various participating colors, flags, globes and garlands,
commissions) and route of the celebra- which begin the procession by receiving
tion has been modified. Although it still the greetings and horn blasts from the
retains one peculiarity: the festival be- other anchored ships in the bay. The
Although it has remained in the popu- gins on land. At the Portales Cove, for images of Saint Peter and the Virgin
lar character for quite some time, there example, fishermen hoist the Saint on a Mary are placed on different ships. On
is no consensus on the date of the first portable platform and, accompanied by some occasions, the city greets the pro-
festival. Some historical researchers dancing groups, musical instruments, cession on land and at sea with flashes
have pointed out that in the Colony the singing and prayers, they head towards of light, reflected off of mirrors from the
festival honoring this apostle was al- the Lourdes Church, on Cerro Placeres, hills of the amphitheater city.
ready being celebrated. The chronicler and then return to the Cove.
Maria Graham noted regretfully in her Currently, the Fishing Club and the
diary (1822) that they had abolished At the El Membrillo Cove, there is first a union organizations of the El Membrillo
the custom of bringing out the statue of mass at a predetermined chapel or Pa- Cove organize a banquet. The festivi-
the Saint from La Matriz and mounting rrish on Playa Ancha, then, they walka- ties begins with a mass and concludes
it on a properly decorated boat and, whi- bout with the image of Saint Peter on a late in the evening with the traditional
le out at sea, visit the different areas of portable platform through the streets fish fry and other gastronomic activities
the bay as they received the greetings of the neighborhood, some of which offered to the dancing groups that parti-
of followers and neighbors with horn are decorated with garlands. Both the cipated in the procession, and to delight
blasts and firecrackers. This was not image of the fisherman and the Virgin the large groups of visitors who come to
the only occasion when the festival was Mary are decorated with flowers and the port for this celebration.
suppressed, with time the celebration colorful flags. Then, the caravan recei-
was revived. ves the greeting of the fishermen at the
Cove and then heads towards the Prat
The purpose of this festival is to give Pier, where they board the images on to
thanks for ones life and for prosperous boats. Some priests and ecclesiastical
fishing or to give an offering for some authorities accompany the procession
favor that was granted, but this is also a through the city, as well as different
festival to ask for protection at sea, the groups of chinese dancing, families of
36 Tradiciones
Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas
Traditions
Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas
37
LA QUEMA DE JUDAS
ritual del Judas. Todo el barrio se rene mienzo. La Quema de Judas es una
en una plaza, calle o esquina. Se cuel- costumbre propia de los espaoles ca-
ga al mueco y, en algunos sectores, tlicos, que se realiza en Sudamrica
aparece su viuda pegando carterazos desde la poca colonial. En Valparaso
a los presentes y llorando la muerte se llevaba a cabo afuera de las iglesias
Fotografa de Nato Samtapu
de su esposo. El vecino que lee mejor Los Doce Apstoles y La Matriz. El re-
declamar el testamento, uno de los gistro ms antiguo que se conoce es
momentos claves de esta costumbre, una nota en el diario El Mercurio del 14
donde se recuerdan los errores cometi- de abril de 1846. A mediados del siglo
dos durante el ao: Siempre se resaltan XIX, la elite portea dej de participar
las cosas malas de la gente del barrio. Es y el ritual se traslad de las iglesias a
el momento de decirlas y no tienen po- los barrios. Ya en el siglo XX fueron los
El Domingo de Resurreccin es un da qu enojarse, aclara Joel. Hay barrios negocios o restaurantes tpicos de cada
especial para los nios del Puerto. Con en que se termina la lectura de mane- sector los organizadores. En la actuali-
dos semanas de anticipacin, el encar- ra ms amena, relatando lo que se es- dad, son las juntas de vecinos, los clu-
gado y sus ayudantes confeccionan el pera para el prximo ao. Y ya por fin, bes deportivos o un grupo de personas
pelele que har de Judas, con palos de con el Judas cargado de monedas y, en los que arman el ritual.
madera, papel de diario y ropa recolec- algunos casos, de papeles con mensa-
tada entre los vecinos. Tiene que quedar jes sobre culpas y errores pasados, se A pesar de que todos los porteos re-
lo ms parecido a un hombre real, segn le roca de bencina y prende fuego. En conocen el origen catlico de la Que-
cuenta Joel Prez, del Cerro Cordillera. el Cerro Cordillera acostumbran colgar, ma, es el peso de la tradicin popular,
Se hace ms de un Judas por sector y el primero, un mueco al que, en vez de la frase siempre se ha hecho, lo que los
ms humano es el que gana prestigio. combustible, le echan agua, creando el entusiasma. Por eso, no existe un re-
Luego de la elaboracin viene el apodo: efecto de un Judas que no se incendia. glamento escrito, todo es transmitido
Siempre tiene el nombre de alguien del de forma oral y cada barrio va integran-
barrio, alguien que todos conocen, dice El momento ms esperado por los ni- do nuevos elementos propios de su in-
Joel, pues ante todo esta es una fiesta os es cuando el Judas arde y explotan genio que enriquecen la costumbre. La
donde el humor est presente. los fuegos artificiales o el cochayuyo Quema hace tiempo dej de ser un acto
que lleva por dentro. Entonces saltan simblico sacro, para ser un acto sim-
Durante una semana, se pasea al Ju- las monedas y los infantes se arrastran blico de cohesin social y alegre catar-
das por el barrio para recolectar mo- por el suelo para recogerlas. Los ms sis colectiva.
nedas. En algunos cerros, lo suben a despiertos usan guantes, otros se han
una carretilla, en otros, a un burro o quemado, como Joel. Pasado el espec-
tambin a un auto. Luego, esa peque- tculo, no queda ms que bailar los rit-
a fortuna se introduce en el ropaje del mos de moda entre los vecinos.
pelele. Llegado el domingo, a las veinte
horas, aproximadamente, comienza el No fue as como se vivi desde un co-
38 Tradiciones
Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas
Traditions
39
BURNING OF JUDAS
This religious ritual takes place in different places in Latin America. However,
the residents of Valparaiso have given it their own flare, making it a popular
tradition in the city.
Easter Sunday is a special day for Some neighborhoods will end the reci-
children in the port. With two weeks of ting in a more pleasant way by narrating
planning, neighbors come together to things that will be coming up for next
make a straw doll that represents Ju- year. And then finally, with the Judas
das, using wood, newspaper and do- doll loaded with change and paper mes-
nated clothing. More than one Judas is sages about guilt and past mistakes, it
made in a particular neighborhood, the is doused with gasoline and lit of fire. On
idea is to make it appear as humanly Cerro Cordillera, it is customary to first
possible to win the prestige among the hang the doll and douse it with water so
40 Tradiciones
Coleccin Ruperto Lang
Traditions
41
42 Tradiciones
Costumbres
Customs
CIUDAD LEGENDARIA
Hay varias formas de conocer una ciudad y, sin duda, una de las ms
entraables es a travs de sus leyendas, aquellas historias que los mismos
habitantes crean y creen.
milagrosa. Rojas afirma que Valparaso ceso comenzaron las historias. La que
es la ciudad con ms animitas por habi- tom mayor fuerza fue que Dubois era
tante. Por ejemplo, en el Barrio Puerto un ladrn que robaba a los ricos para
est Rosita, la animita de los indigentes. dar a los pobres, muerto en represalia
A pocos les importa quin fue, lo que por su bondad. Ya para 1908 su sepultu-
vale son sus milagros y el cario que ra rebosaba de placas de agradecimien-
Traditions 43
to por favores concedidos. Dubois lleg
a lo mximo que puede aspirar un fusi-
lado: ser santo de veneracin popular.
44 Tradiciones
Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas
sabindose injusto. Aos ms tarde, ganado terreno al mar, se construy un de marineros, fue agachando la cabe-
cuando el virrey est por morir, manda camino que pasaba justo por fuera de la za. Slo siete das antes del juicio final,
a hacer una estatua de la Justicia que caverna; los porteos lo hacan muer- volver a alzarla en advertencia de que
realmente lo representara. El resulta- tos de miedo. Finalmente, el pen fue queda poco tiempo para redimirse.
do: una mujer sin vendas en los ojos, dinamitado.
de actitud altiva, con una mano apoyada El Cristo de la Matriz es el verdadero
en la cintura y sosteniendo en la otra, El caso del Cristo de la Matriz es dis- patrono de los porteos, la devocin que
como si no importaran, la balanza y la tinto: es mito, no leyenda; hace referen- despierta es inmensurable, por eso es
espada. Despus de muchsimo tiempo, cia al fin de los tiempos. Ubicado en el mito y no leyenda. Aunque, como dice
el extrao monumento habra llegado a casco fundacional de la ciudad, en la el maestro Faras, el mito de Valparaso
manos chilenas y a Valparaso, para sa- Iglesia de la Matriz, tiene dos orgenes es Valparaso, por ser una ciudad con
ludar a los abogados a la entrada de sus legendarios: que fue un obsequio del cuento.
juicios. rey de Espaa, Felipe II, luego que el pi-
rata Francis Drake destrozara la capilla
Otra famosa historia trata sobre la La Matriz; y que despus de un terrible
Cueva del Chivato, ubicada entre la Pla- temporal, que destruy al humilde puer-
za Anbal Pinto y El Mercurio de Valpa- to, lleg esta escultura desde el mar,
raso, en tiempos en que el mar llegaba devolviendo la esperanza a los poblado-
hasta la calle Esmeralda. Debido a los res. Sin embargo, el rasgo mtico se lo
naufragios que sufrieron los espaoles da otra historia: el Cristo sola tener la
en el siglo XVII, se comenz a decir que cabeza alta, miraba hacia su Padre en
all habitaba el demonio hecho animal. el cielo, pero debido a los pecados que
Siglos despus, ya formada la ciudad y ocurran a su alrededor en los burdeles
Traditions 45
THE LEGENDARY CITY
There are many ways to get to know a city. Nevertheless, one of the most
personal ways is through its tales, these are the stories that the inhabitants of
Valparaiso tell and believe.
In Valparaiso there are many legendary Among these spontaneous altars, the the ground with four dragons feet, each
characters, such as the choro del Puer- most famous one is Emile Dubois in with six toes (the number of the beast)
to, which refers to a man who is quick the Playa Ancha Cemetery. Dubois was and its roof is ovaled to prevent caveins
with his fists, a true partygoer, sleeps shot by a firing squad in 1907 for mur- from earthquakes. The devil has not
with one eye open and always wins. The dering a high-class gentleman and at- been able to take his soul, that is why
fact that Valparaiso was a stopover port, tempting to murder another. During his it is said that evil lurks around his tomb
complete with a Chinatown and foreign trial, which lasted nine months, Dubois and has become a scene for witchcraft.
sailors, makes it a place with abundant was subjected to the morbid treatment Proof of this are the crosses and stars
tavern tall tales and maritime stories. of Valparaisos inhabitants. He was a which have been drawn over his coffin.
Adding to that its cosmopolitan past of mysterious figure, well spoken and
French, British, German, Spanish and had a favorable appearance; they never Another classic tale of Valparaiso is
Italian immigrants, its labyrinth-like knew for sure his nationality or his real that of the Piedra Feliz. Nobody knows
geography and urban settlement, the name. The tales began coming out after who was the first to jump but many wo-
result is a collection of more legends his death; one which caught on strong men have committed suicide by jumping
than actual historical facts. was that Dubois was a thief who stole into the sea from there. People say that
from the rich to give to the poor and was it has an energy which calls women to
The book Valparaso, el Mito y sus Le- put to death in retaliation for his kind- commit suicide. It has been over twen-
yendas by Vctor Rojas Faras brings ness. By 1908 his grave boasted thank ty years since they blew the top off with
these stories together. One of the most you plaques for favors granted. Dubois dinamite to lessen its height, but every
ubiquitous legendary figures is the mi- became what any person shot by firing now and then the Piedra Feliz irronically
racle shrine. Rojas affirms that Valpa- squad aspires to be: a popularly vene- makes news again.
raiso is the city with most shrines per rated saint.
inhabitant. For example, a shrine named The Statue of Justice at the foot of the
Rosita is located in the Port Neighbor- Although many people go to the shrines Valparaiso Courthouse has also been
hood (Barrio Puerto), which is dedicated to ask for favors, people also go to shri- the subject of legends for having a very
to the homeless. Few actually care who nes to cast curses. These people go to atypical representation of equality. The
it was named after, but what matters the tomb of Martn Busca, which dates tale is about the viceroy of Peru who had
are its miracles and the love they have back to 1945. The legend tells the story an unruly and brutal son who killed an
for it. The Rosita shine is always lit with of this man who was a pauper and from innocent plebeian. The viceroy cast his
candles and often has thank you letters. one day to the next became a generous son from Peru instead of punishing him,
Believing in shrines is a tradition that millionaire. He had made a pact with which he knew to be a great injustice.
never goes out of style. In 2007, after the devil: a fortune in exchange for his Years later when the viceroy was about
the tragic explosion on Serrano Street, soul as soon as his body fell dead to the to die, he requested a statue of the Jus-
a shrine was built in memory of the de- ground. But Busca ingeniously planned tice be made and that accurately repre-
ceased. Written on the side was: Res- ahead so that would never happen: his sented himself. The result was: a wo-
pect this holy shrine. mausaleum in the Playa Ancha Ceme- man with no bandage over her eyes, an
tery has two levels, his coffin stands off arrogant pose with one hand on her hip
46 Tradiciones
and the other casually holding a scale The Christ of the Matriz is the true pa-
and a sword, as if she did not care at all. tron saint of Valparaiso, the devotion it
Many years later, the strange monu- awakens is unfathomable and this is why
ment made its way to Valparaiso, where it is a myth and not a legend. Although,
it is now located to salute the lawyers as as Faras always says, the myth of Val-
they go to court. paraiso is Valparaiso, because it is a city
with many stories.
Another famous tale is about the Chi-
vato Cave, located between the Plaza
Anibal Pinto and the El Mercurio de
Valparaiso building, which was whe-
re the shoreline was on Esmeralda
Street. When the Spanish Navy began
experiencing wreck their ships in the
17th century, it was said that there was
a demon-like animal that lived in the
cave. Centuries after, when the city was
already formed and a new shoreline was
made, a road was built which past right
in front of the cave. People were to te-
rrified to walk past it, so it was finally
blasted out of the hill.
Traditions 47
EL EMPORIO DE BARRIO
El emporio, voz grecolatina que signi- alrededor de setecientos emporios. Los des de un determinado local.
fica lugar de comercio, tiene tambin emporios se ubicaban, ms que nada,
otras expresiones afines: bodega, alma- en las esquinas, cada seis cuadras de Incluso, algunos de ellos ofrecieron
cn, comercial, boliche, pulpera, tienda distancia aproximadamente, de tal ma- servicio de mensajera y correo postal.
de abarrotes y menestras, el almacn nera que cada almacn le imprima una Ms all de su aporte a la economa
de la esquina, la tienda del bachicha, fisonoma particular a su respectivo ba- local (adems del almacenero o dueo
la casa distribuidora, etc. rrio. del local, trabajaban con l una serie de
ayudantes), tambin fueron importan-
Como fuera su nombre, una amplia Estos almacenes ofrecan a la pobla- tes espacios de sociabilidad. El empo-
mayora de estos establecimientos se cin variados artculos y alimentos pro- rio se cuenta entre los centros sociales
materializ gracias al tesn de la co- ducidos en suelo chileno, adems de ms caractersticos de un determinado
lectividad italiana. La razn de por qu los caractersticos de su tierra natal. barrio. Los clientes que acuden a estos
ellos fomentaron este rubro, al parecer, Se cuentan entre ellos las fogazzas, las establecimientos destacan su atencin
est en las escasas oportunidades la- pizzas, las cimas, las pascualinas, los personalizada, a diferencia de la que re-
borales que brindaban Gnova y otras panetones y las pastas de todo tipo, lo ciben en un supermercado.
regiones italianas, especialmente para que permiti a los pequeos negocios
los ms jvenes, quienes vieron en el alcanzar la importancia de grandes em- El Cristforo Colombo, por ejemplo, se
embarcarse hacia el extranjero, espe- porios. ubicaba en la esquina de la avenida Ar-
cialmente hacia Amrica Latina, una gentina con el pasaje Quillota, un barrio
posibilidad de prosperar y mejorar las La magnitud y el alcance de estos esta- donde haba tantos italianos que per-
condiciones de vida de sus familias. blecimientos comerciales estn dados mita a los colonos sentirse como en su
por su contribucin al desarrollo del tierra natal. Tambin en el Almendral
Ya fuera en el plan o en los cerros, ya pequeo comercio. Entre los mltiples abrirn sus puertas la Bodega Pedro
se ubicaran en el Puerto o en El Almen- servicios que ofrecan figura la venta de Montt y el Emporio El Olivar, que an
dral, desde el Cerro Esperanza hasta abarrotes y menestras de toda clase. existen.
Playa Ancha, todos los inmigrantes ita-
lianos tenan almacenes o, al menos, no En un emporio o almacn de cerro era Como suele ocurrir en las ciudades que
les costaba enrolarse en uno o abrir e posible encontrar el aceite en tambo- recibieron grandes cantidades de inmi-
instalar el suyo propio. Muchos inmi- res de doscientos litros; huevos y leche grantes, el tiempo ha ido borrando la
grantes se bajaron del barco y, rpi- fresca, as como una gran cantidad de impronta que tenan estos negocios. En
damente, se dirigieron al que sera su productos y especias que se vendan a marzo de 2005, luego de ms de un siglo
lugar de trabajo. granel. Era comn percibir, a la distan- de funcionamiento en el popular sector
cia, esos aromas a especias mezclados fundacional de Valparaso, el tradicional
Investigaciones recientes por ejem- con olores a queso, aceitunas, aceites Emporio Echaurren baj su cortina de
plo la realizada por el joven historiador extranjeros, huesillos y ciruelas secas, manera definitiva. Haba sido fundado,
Emilio Toro Canessa han demostrado entre otros productos dispuestos en las en 1901, por Jos y Juan Ansaldo. En
que, hacia 1930, existan en Valparaso altas estanteras que cubran las pare- 1973, lo compr la sociedad comercial
48 Tradiciones
Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas
Aste Hermanos, familia de ascendencia porios hoy cerrados, hay preguntas sin
italiana que arrendaba el inmueble don- respuesta que, con nostalgia, se repi-
de se encontraba el legendario negocio ten:- Dnde adquirir el ajo, la choco-
porteo. Otro lamentable episodio: re- latina, la cebolla escabeche o la harina
cientemente, en junio de 2007, el Cerro tostada que se requiere de manera in-
Concepcin sufri la desaparicin de mediata? Por otro lado Dnde se ente-
otro clsico almacn: La Pollita. rar uno de los acontecimientos y chis-
mes del barrio?
Para los vecinos y clientes de los em-
Traditions 49
50
Tradiciones
Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas
THE NEIGHBORHOOD EMPORIUM
The corner store is a vital spot for neighborhoods life, nevertheless, these stores
were something in between a grocery store and a department store, usually
owned and operated by Italian descendants, a place where one could buy fresh
pasta or send a letter. There are still some around and others that are again
taking up this idea.
The word emporium has Latin Greek cular character to their own neighbor- custom-designed service.
roots and means a place of commer- hood.
ce, and it has other related meanings The Cristoforo Colombo was located in
like, warehouse, store, small shop, mini These stores offered the population a the corner of Argentina Avenue and Pa-
market, local grocery and vegetable sto- variety of goods and food grown in Chi- saje Quillota, a neighborhood preferred
re, neighborhood or corner store, or the lean soil as well as imported ones from by Italians and was certainly a place they
bachichas store. (Italians were called the homeland. You could find fogazzas, could feel at home. Bodega Pedro Montt
bachichas in Chile). pizzas and other baked goods, as well (still in existence) and Emporio El Olivar
as all kinds of pasta, allowing these bu- were also located in El Almendral.
Whatever its name is, this kind of busi- siness to reach the importance of big
ness came to life thanks to the tenacity emporiums. As it usually happens in cities hit by
and determination of the Italian com- large numbers of immigrants, time has
munity. The reason could have been the The magnitude and reach of the com- erased the stamp that these establish-
lack of working opportunities that they mercial establishments contributed to ments had. In March 2005, after more
had back in Genoa or other Italian re- the development of small shops. The than a century of existence in the foun-
gions. Then, the younger ones set sail commerce of groceries and food was dational core of Valparaiso, the traditio-
for Latin America seeking an opportuni- among the core of services offered. nal Emporio Echaurren closed its doors.
ty for prosperity and better living condi- It was founded in 1901 by Jose and Juan
tions for their families. The stores located in the hills would Ansaldo and sold in 1973 to Aste Bro-
sell oil as big as 200-liter oil drums, thers Company, also of italian ances-
They settled in the downtown or hills, eggs, fresh milk, produce and spices tors. In another regrettable episode in
in the port area or El Almendral, from sold in bulk. It was a common place to June 2007, the classic storeLa Pollita
Cerro Esperanza to Playa Ancha. All of perceive the aromas of spices mixed in Cerro Concepcion disappeared.
the Italian immigrants had set up gro- with the smell of cheese, olives, im-
cery stores, or at least they were wor- ported oils and dried fruit among other Neighbors and patrons regret the clo-
king in one and waiting to open up their items that usually hung from very high sing of the emporiums, leaving ques-
own store. Most immigrants would dis- shelves against the wall. tions unanswered such as: where to get
embark and go directly to the place that garlic, chocolate bars, pickled onions,
would be their job. Some of them even offered messenger roasted flour, all things that are re-
and postal services. The owner emplo- quired at a moments notice? But also,
Recent research, like the one carried yed a number of helpers contributing to where can we get the neighborhood
out by the young historian Emilio Toro the local economy. Besides all this they gossip and news?
Canessa, had shown that by 1930 the- were important places to socialize. The
re were about 700 emporiums. These emporium is among the most charac-
establishments were located mainly at teristic social centers in a given neigh-
a corner location, 6 blocks apart from borhood. Compared to a supermarket,
each other, so each store gave a parti- the patrons feel a more personalized
Traditions 51
52
Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas
Tradiciones
1918. Emporio Santa Catalina del Cerro Placeres.
Aglomeracin de fanticos de Santiago Wanderers. 1948. Campeonato de regatas. 1950. Portada revista Estadio.
La numerosa colonia de habla ingle- Hunt se ampliaron tambin a las carre- De la dcada de 1860 es tambin el
sa se preocup de reeditar no slo sus ras de salto ecuestre o Steeplechase, en Valparaso Cricket Club. El cricket, que
instituciones religiosas y sociales, sino el sector de Placilla. Si bien las carreras algunos sostienen lo practic Lord Co-
tambin sus usos y prcticas cultura- hpicas presentaban un marcado acen- chrane con sus oficiales, se jugaba en
les. El sport no fue la excepcin. Junto to extranjero, siempre convocaban a un los alrededores de Quebrada Verde y,
al disfrute de la actividad fsica, se le pblico masivo y festivo. Como se indi- luego, en los terrenos del Sporting.
consideraba un importante elemento en ca en la investigacin de Edgardo Marn Hasta hace pocos aos, todava estaba
la educacin del carcter. Las bondades (2007), los vecinos del lugar acostum- en pie la sede del club britnico depor-
del clima templado motivaron a realizar braban instalarse con ramadas, carpas, tivo ms antiguo de Chile.
actividades recreativas al aire libre de fondas, ventorrillos y carruajes para dis-
manera organizada. Proliferan, hacia frutar el espectculo de los gringos. El tenis, conocido como el deporte blan-
mediados del siglo XIX, clubes donde se co, a pocos aos de su reglamentacin
practica la cra y monta de caballos de El xito de las carreras anim a los en Inglaterra, se practica en la dcada
carrera, la caza, el juego del lawn-ten- organizadores a constituirse en la so- de 1880 en el cerro Las Zorras de Val-
nis, el cricket y el foot-ball. Por ejemplo, ciedad Valparaso Spring Meeting. En paraso, en la cancha de un particular.
la cacera, que ya en 1851 era practica- 1866, para la tercera versin, se estim En 1883, un ingls de apellido James,
da por la familia Garland, se estableci una concurrencia de seis mil personas. exhibe su propia cancha en el sector de
a comienzos de la dcada de 1860 como Cada inauguracin de la temporada h- Las Salinas, en Via del Mar. Pronto, las
Valparaso Hunt. pica, coincida con la llegada de la pri- canchas construidas en ripio o asfalto y
mavera. El Puerto se transformaba en marcadas con tablones se multiplicaron
En septiembre de 1864, reputados co- una verdadera fiesta popular. El comer- en los cerros de Valparaso.
merciantes ingleses del Puerto reali- cio cerraba sus puertas temprano y la
zan las primeras carreras de caballos. poblacin apuraba el traslado hacia las Un testigo de la poca seal lo si-
Pronto, las actividades del Valparaso canchas de Via del Mar. guiente: Todo era serio en ese tenis.
Traditions 53
reforzaron la identidad de grupo ex- fuerzas en un primer duelo inter-cities.
tranjero usando un reglamento escrito El ao de 1894 fue testigo de dos victo-
en ingls. En 1910, el recinto se tras- rias porteas: 7 x 2, en el Parque Cousi-
lad a sus actuales dependencias en el o, y 5 x 0, en el Valparaiso Sporting
Sporting Club. En la actualidad, se erige Club. Pronto, las ciudades comienzan
como el ms antiguo club de tenis de a fundar sus respectivas asociaciones.
Latinoamrica. As, a mediados de la dcada de 1890,
en el Caf Pacfico de Valparaso, se
De fines del siglo XIX son el Valpara- crea la Foot-Ball Asociation of Chile
so Polo Club y el Valparaso Golf Club. (FAC), afiliada a la Asociacin Inglesa y,
El remo tuvo su nacimiento formal en tiempo despus, a la FIFA.
1899, con el Viking Boating Club, que en
1916 pas a denominarse British Rowing Por esos aos, se oficializa el Santiago
Club. De las primeras dcadas del XX Wanderers, compuesto en su mayora
son el rugby y el hockey sobre csped, por nacionales. Es el club profesional
que promovi el Valparaso Badmington chileno vigente de mayor antigedad.
Club. Para 1910, se funda el British Ri- Por ello tambin se le conoce como el
Gentileza Via del Mar Lawn Tennis Club.
fle Club. Los terrenos del Sporting Club Decano del ftbol. Porteos, dentro y
fueron tambin aptos para las primeras fuera del pas, se identifican y siguen al
carreras a pie, el cross country y los wanderito. En enero de 2007, fue de-
matches de foot-ball. Plazas, calles o clarado Patrimonio Intangible de Valpa-
cualquier sitio despejado, en Valparaso raso.
o Via del Mar, posibilitaron improvisar
terrenos para jugar a la pelota, al modo A lo largo de todo el siglo XX, en los
como lo hacan los gringos. cerros de Valparaso proliferan los clu-
bes y torneos amateurs. Estos muchas
El Torneo Damas de la Copa Henn del Lawn De seguro, la herencia deportiva ms veces se juegan en las calles, originn-
Tennis Club, se realiz desde 1925 a 1991. significativa por su popularidad y masi- dose la prctica del ftbol en pendiente,
ficacin, es el ftbol. En julio de 1889, que presenta un peculiar grado de difi-
Desde Valparaso iba el pedido al sucu- debuta en la cancha del Sporting Club el cultad: en cualquier momento la pelota
cho londinense, de donde respondan: Valparaso Foot-Ball Club, primer equi- puede perderse cerro abajo.
comenzaremos a fabricar un racket para po de ftbol de Chile, cuyos integrantes
usted dentro de tres meses. Las mujeres iniciales fueron todos britnicos. No
usaban faldas hasta el suelo. Sobresala obstante, hay antecedentes de que el
Ethel Sutherland Harper, que jugaba en ftbol ya tena entusiastas practicantes
la cancha de su padre, construida hacia en el colegio MacKay y en varias casas
1890. Ethel os acortar el ruedo de sus comerciales inglesas entre 1885 y 1886;
faldas y debi soportar airada crtica. los primeros matches porteos se co-
mienzan a disputar en los terrenos de
Fue tal la buena acogida que, a co- Playa Ancha, en el Parque Alejo Barrios,
mienzos de la dcada de 1880, se fund en el Picadero Alemn, en la cancha de
el Via del Mar Lawn Tennis Club con la Aduana y frente al Muelle, en la Can-
el apoyo del Valparaiso Sporting Club. cha del Empedrado.
Su cancha se ubicaba en los terrenos
del exclusivo Gran Hotel de Via. Los Tempranamente, los deportistas de
socios, mayoritariamente britnicos, Valparaso y Santiago quisieron medir
54 Tradiciones
VALPARASO, THE CRADLE OF SPORTS
Making the port city the only protagonist in this part of history may be a little
over exaggerated. However, we have to recognize that the idea of Valparaiso as the
cradle of sports was something that the British immigrants carefully carried out.
The numerous British colony took care for the third version of the event, an esti- to make a racket for you within three
to re-establish not only their religious mated six thousand people where in at- months. Women wore long ankle length
and social institutions, but also its uses tendance. Coincidentally, the inaugura- skirts. Ethel Sutherland Harper was one
and cultural customs. Sports were no tion of the horseracing season matched player that stood out, she started playing
exception here. Along with the enjoy- up with the arrival of the spring season. on her fathers lawn, built in 1890. Ethel
ment of physical activities, it was consi- The port would transform into one great dared to wear shorter skirts, which cost
dered an important element in personal popular party. Businesses would close her much disappointing criticism.
character development. The mildness of early and people would hurry to the ra-
the climate allowed for outdoor recrea- cetracks in Via del Mar. Tennis was so well received that at the
tional activities in an organized fashion. beginning of the 1880s, and with the
Towards the half of the 19th century The Valparaiso Cricket Club is also help of the Valparaiso Sporting Club,
there were a series of clubs dedicated to from the 1860s. Cricket, which some they founded the Via del Mar Lawn
the raising and racing of thoroughbreds, believe was practiced by Lord Cochrane Tennis Club. The courts were located
hunting, lawn tennis, cricket or football. and his officers, was played in the su- on the grounds of the exclusive Gran
For example, hunting, which was prac- rrounding area of Quebrada Verde, and Hotel de Via. The members, most of
ticed by the Garland family already in later, on the fields of the Sporting. Un- who were British, reinforced the foreign
1851, became an established sport in til not to long ago, there still stood the identity of the group by using rules writ-
the 1860s with Valparaiso Hunt. headquarters of the countries oldest ten in English. In 1910, the club transfe-
British sporting club. rred their courts to their current loca-
In September of 1864, renowned Bri- tion at the Sporting Club. Currently, it
tish businessmen from Valparaiso ca- Tennis, which was known as the white holds the title for the oldest tennis club
rried out the first series of horse races. sport, was being played privately in Val- in Latin America.
Soon, the activities in Valparaiso Hunt paraiso on Las Zorras Hill in 1880, only
began including steeplechase or eques- a few years after the rules of the game The end of the 19th century belongs to
trian jumping, in the Placilla area. Even were standerized in England. In 1883, the Valparaiso Polo Club and the Valpa-
though horseracing projected a foreign a Englishman by the surname James, raiso Golf Club. Crew also had its formal
accent, but they always brought in mas- showed off his own court in Las Salinas beginnings in 1899 with the Viking Boa-
sive numbers of festive people. In a re- in Via del Mar. Soon, tennis courts built ting Club, which in 1916 became known
cent research done by Edgardo Marn with gravel or asphalt and flanked with as the British Rowing Club. The first de-
(2007), he points that neighbors in the bleechers were multipling in the hills of cades of the 20th century saw the rise of
area would set up tents, refreshment Valparaiso. Rugby and Field Hockey, thus promul-
stands, food tents and wagons to enjoy gating the Valparaiso Badminton Club.
the spectacle put on by los gringos. A witness from this era pointed out the By 1910, the British Rifle Club was foun-
following: Everything was serious in ded. The grounds at the Sporting Club
The success of the races spurred the tennis. There were many orders put it were also used for the first track and
interest of organizers who constituted from Valparaiso to a British goods store field events, cross country and soccer
the Valparaiso Spring Meeting. In 1866, and they would respond: we will begin matches. Any square, street or open
Traditions 55
Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas
Archivo Club de Deportes Santiago Wanderers.
Gentileza Via del Mar Lawn Tennis Club.
Partido de tenis en el Cerro Las Zorras. 1945. Celebrando un gol de Wanderers en el Estadio Playa Ancha.
56 Tradiciones
Coleccin Ruperto Lang.
space in Valparaiso or Via del Mar, ever inter city tournament. The port Valparaiso grew with clubs and amateur
became an improvised soccer field, mi- won twice in 1894, winning 7-2 at the tournaments. Many of these games are
micking the way the gringos played. Cousio Park and 5-0 at the Valparaiso played of the streets, creating the sport
Sporting Club. Soon afterwards, towns of downhill soccer, which presents a
By far, the most significant sporting began founding their respective club peculiar grade of difficulty: at any mo-
heritage in Valparaiso, due to its popu- associations. Already in the 1890s the ment the ball could roll down hill.
larity and outreach, is soccer. The first Foot-Ball Association of Chile (FAC) was
soccer team in Chile, the Valparaiso founded, which was first affiliated to the
Foot-ball Club, debuted In July of 1889 British Association and later with the
at the Sporting Club field with an all- FIFA.
British squad. Furthermore, there are
records that indicate that soccer was Around the same time, Santiago Wan-
being played at the MacKay School and derers was becoming an official club,
at various other British businesses bet- made up mostly of national athletes. It
ween 1885 and 1886. The first matches is the oldest contemporary professional
Traditions 57
1947. Quinta Compaa de Bomberos.
58 Tradiciones
Instituciones
Institutions
CUERPO DE BOMBEROS
Traditions 59
un bombero falleci y haba que rendirle
honor. Entonces se hizo la ceremonia de
noche, en silencio, portando antorchas y
caminando desde la compaa hasta el
cementerio. Con ello se inici una prc-
tica que sera adoptada por todos los
bomberos del pas. Pero tambin hay
tradiciones que se perdieron, como las
competencias entre bombas, de fines
del siglo XIX. Los voluntarios se acuar-
telaban durante un mes para un intenso
entrenamiento, que culminaba en jue-
gos de destreza contra el tiempo.
60 Tradiciones
FIRE RESCUE COMPANY
Valparaiso means burnt land and it certainly has had an incendiary history.
Valparaiso is also known as the first city in Chile to have a Fire Department.
Being a firefighter in Valparaiso implies tradition.
It is 2:45 in the morning on October the French created the 5th Company in
Traditions 61
LA ARMADA
27 de abril, 1818. Luego de la Batalla visitas de soldados a las cantinas desde cuando zarpa y vuelve el Buque Escuela
de Maip, que dio inicio a la Guerra de donde se llevaban a los borrachos, los Esmeralda. Ya es tradicin que las fami-
Independencia de Chile, en Valparaso que despertaban a bordo y contratados. lias de los jvenes marinos se instalen
hubo un combate naval. La fragata pa- en el molo de abrigo a dar sus despedi-
triota Lautaro, disfrazada de embarca- Los marinos extranjeros de la Escuadra das y bienvenidas.
cin inglesa, atac a las naves espao- Nacional, una vez en tierra, se transfor-
las Esmeralda y Pezuela, que mantenan maron en comerciantes, aportando al La Armada tambin se hace presente
un bloqueo. Jorge OBrien, al mando de carcter cosmopolita de Valparaso. La en la configuracin urbana de la ciudad
los independentistas, abord el buque actividad martima trajo consigo mucho y en su nomenclatura. Por ejemplo, en
Esmeralda junto a veinticinco hombres movimiento comercial y venta de servi- medio de la Plaza Sotomayor se encuen-
y arri la bandera real. Fue muerto y cios. Alrededor de 1830, se inicia la re- tra el Monumento a los Hroes de Iqui-
tambin muchos de sus compaeros. paracin de cascos a travs de varade- que, erigido en 1884, luego de la Guerra
Aun as, los espaoles levantaron el blo- ros y, luego, diques. del Pacfico. Por otra parte, la mayora
queo. de los nombres de las calles cntricas
A partir del siglo XX, la Marina, en gran de la ciudad hacen honor a hroes de
Este combate marc el estilo de la Ar- medida gracias al mejoramiento de sus combates navales, como Prat, Cochra-
mada chilena. O Brien fue el primer te- capacidades y profesionalizacin, es ne, Almirante Montt y Condell.
niente que, poniendo su vida en riesgo, vista como una institucin respetable
aborda l mismo al enemigo; dos aos que forma a jvenes de acuerdo con Los cerros Artillera y Playa Ancha, en
despus lo hara Lord Cochrane y, ms las virtudes republicanas del orden y el su parte baja, son prcticamente territo-
tarde, Arturo Prat. Valparaso es la cuna respeto, en contrapartida a la cultura de rio de marinos. En el Paseo 21 de Mayo,
de la Armada y la ciudad desde donde la Belle Epoque de entre guerras, don- uno de los lugares ms tursticos de la
proyect su dominio del Pacfico sur. de divertirse era lo primordial. Quienes ciudad, se encuentra El Museo Naval
hacan carrera naval gozaron, y gozan, y Martimo, antigua Escuela Naval. Su
Seis meses despus del enfrentamiento de prestigio entre los porteos y via- edificacin magnnima se le encarg
se form la Primera Escuadra Nacional. marinos: la clase acomodada gustaba al ingeniero alemn Carlos Von Moltke,
Los oficiales, en su gran mayora, tenan de la institucionalidad y las ms modes- en el mismo ao en que se levantara
nacionalidad britnica y otros, norte- tas vean en la Armada una oportunidad el monumento de Plaza Sotomayor. La
americana. Los mismos tripulantes de para asegurarles el futuro a sus jvenes. Escuela Naval actual, ubicada en Pla-
los buques comprados al extranjero se Por ello, las elegantes fiestas de cadetes ya Ancha, fue construida por el Premio
incorporaron a la Armada de Chile; otros llenaban las pginas sociales de las pu- Nacional de Arquitectura Mario Prez de
eran marinos mercantes y balleneros. blicaciones. Arce, durante 1967 y 1977. Las calles de
Los netamente porteos fueron pesca- este cerro albergan diversos edificios de
dores y los llamados bichicumas, vagos Hoy, en las calles de la ciudad es comn la Armada, como la Direccin del Terri-
de playa, a quienes se reclutaba por el ver hombres uniformados caminando torio Marino, el Faro Punta ngeles y el
sistema de enganche, un contrato for- por las calles en sus das de franco. Las antiguo Hospital Naval, aportando a su
zoso que, segn cuentan, consista en veces en que ms se hacen notar es paisaje urbano.
62 Tradiciones
La Armada y su cultura estn impreg-
nadas en el presente y pasado de Val-
paraso. Sus hombres han sido protago-
nistas de los acontecimientos histricos
ms importantes de la ciudad. A veces,
incluso, sin la aceptacin de sus habi-
tantes, como le sucedi al capitn Arturo
Middleton, quien predijo, con precisin,
el da en que un terremoto sacudira a
Valparaso en 1906. Lamentablemente,
luego todos le daran la razn.
Traditions 63
THE NAVY
The city would not be the same if it were not for the settlement of the Navy in
its territory. This institution is present in its history, customs, architecture and
city planning.
April 27th, 1818. After the Battle of sleep aboard the ships. the breakwater dock to welcome and
Maip, which started the Independence bid farewell to the Esmeralda.
War in Chile, there was a naval battle in Once on land, foreign sailors from the
Valparaiso. The patriot frigate Lautaro, National Squadron settled and became The Navy is also present in the citys
disguised as a British ship, attacked the businessmen, adding to Valparaisos urban configuration and in its nomen-
Spanish ships Esmeralda and Pezuela, cosmopolitan character. Maritime acti- clature. For example, at the center of
which were blockading the port. Jorge vities in the port greatly increased com- the Sotomayor Square is the Heroes of
OBrien, who was in command of the se- mercial movement and trading. Circa Iquique Monument, erected in 1884 af-
paratists, boarded the Esmeralda with 1830, Valparaiso begins to repair ships ter the War of the Pacific. On the other
25 men and hauled down the royal flag. on barges and in dry docks. hand, most of the central streets in the
He died and so did many of his friends. city are named after naval combat he-
Consequently, the Spanish lifted the Starting in the 20th century, largely roes, such as Prat, Cochrane, Almirante
blockade. due to the improvement of the Navy Montt and Condell.
skills and professionalism, it is seen
This battle marked the style of the Chi- as a respectable institution that forms The hills Artillera and the lower parts
lean Navy. OBrien was the first Lieu- young men according to the republican of Playa Ancha are practically naval te-
tenant who risked his life by boarding virtues of order and respect, juxtapo- rritories. The 21 de Mayo Promenade,
the enemy; two years later it was done sed to the culture of the Belle poque which is one of the most popular pla-
by Lord Cochrane and later by Arturo between wars, which believed in having ces among tourists, is where you can
Prat. Valparaiso is the birthplace of the fun was primordial. Those who pursued find the Naval and Maritime Museum,
Chilean Navy and the city from where it a naval career enjoyed, and still enjoy, formerly the Naval Academy. The mag-
powers over the sea. the prestige among the residents of Val- nanimous construction was entrusted
paraiso and Via del Mar: the wealthier to the German engineer Carlos Von Mol-
Six months after the confrontation, classes liked institutionalism and the tke, which occurred in the same year the
the country formed the First National more modest classes saw the Navy as monument in Sotomayor Square was
Squadron. Most of the officers were an opportunity to secure their childrens built. The current Naval Academy, loca-
British and some were American. The future. Accordingly, the printed media ted in Playa Ancha, was built by National
crew members of the ships bought from filled their social pages with elegant ca- Award winning Architect Mario Prez de
abroad became part of the Chilean Ar- det parties. Arce, from 1967 to 1977. The streets on
med Forces, as well as merchant ma- this hill house diverse buildings belon-
rines and whalers. Those who were Nowadays, it is a common sight to see ging to the Navy, such as the Maritime
strictly from Valparaiso were fishermen uniformed men walking down the street Territory Headquarters, the Punta n-
and the so called bichicumas, or bea- on off-duty days. The days on which this geles Lighthouse and the former Navy
ch bums, who were recruited through is seen the most is when the training Hospital, all of which added significantly
the hook system, which allegedly in- ship Esmeralda sets sail and anchors. to the urban landscape.
volved soldiers who would visit bars in It is already a tradition among the fami-
the port and then take the drunks to lies of young sailors to congregate on The Navy and its culture are impreg-
64 Tradiciones
Gentileza de la Armada de Chile.
Traditions 65
CUERPO DE VOLUNTARIOS DE LOS BOTES SALVAVIDAS
Existe una tradicin que une a generaciones de porteos: rescatar vidas mar
adentro. Los valientes salvavidas, con sede en pleno Muelle Prat, comparten
una historia que se remonta a 1925.
Omar Carvajal tena once aos cuando rmetro y se formaba un hoyo en el mar, La prensa guarda el recuerdo de que
ley la historia del capitn dans Olaf por el que se vean unos cerros que estn en el funeral del capitn Christiansen,
Christiansen, creador del Bote Salva- en Pichidangui dice Carvajal. En ese en 1963, el marino mercante Carlos de
vidas de Valparaso. Hoy tiene ms de entonces, los buques se quedaban en el la Fuente, sentidamente y fuera de pro-
setenta, de los cuales dedic cuaren- puerto por lo menos cinco das, con slo tocolo, se despidi del capitn dndole
ta al voluntariado, oficialmente desde unos pocos marinos a bordo. Cuando las gracias por haberle salvado la vida
1962, dividiendo su vida entre el trabajo, haca mal tiempo, todos los tripulantes en 1929.
la familia y la guardia. Esta historia es deban volver y era tarea de los salvavi-
comn entre los porteos, pues Valpa- das embarcarlos, para que capearan la
raso fue la primera ciudad sudameri- tormenta en alta mar. Tambin deban
cana en tener un Cuerpo de Salvavidas. rescatar a los guachimnde wat-
Se fund en 1925 y durante quince aos chman en ingls-, cuidadores de los
tuvo como sede un container del puer- barcos en mal estado, que permanecan
to. Pero en 1940, gracias al herosmo de anclados frente a la Universidad Santa
los voluntarios durante una tormenta, Mara. Ellos acostumbraban llevar a sus
se les cedi un terreno al lado del espi- familias a vivir a bordo, incluidas las
gn. Recin en 1950, el Bote obtiene su mascotas, a las cuales tambin haba
ubicacin actual. que salvar. A la vuelta de una agotado-
ra faena vena la recompensa: un buen
En sus primeros aos, los volunta- Grog: azcar secado al fuego, agua hir-
rios salan al rescate en botes a remo viendo y coac o ron. Una tradicin del
66 Tradiciones
Gentileza Cuerpo de Voluntarios de los Botes Salvavidas.
1930. Capitn Fundador Oluf Christiansen (al centro con pipa) acompaado de voluntarios equipados con sus tenidas de agua.
Traditions 67
LIFEBOAT VOLUNTEER CORPS
There is a tradition that binds generations of locals: save lives at sea. The brave
lifeguards, based on the Prat Pier, share a history dating back to 1925.
Omar Carvajal was eleven years old would drop and a hole in the ocean would
when he read the story of the Danish form, allowing us to see the hills of Pichi-
Captain Oluf Christiansen, founder of dangui, says Carvajal. Back then ships
Valparaisos Lifeboat. Today he is over would only stay in the port for at least five
seventy years old, forty of those years days, with only a few sailors on board.
were spent volunteering, officially since When foul weather struck, all the sailors
1962 while dividing his life between work, in the port had to return to their ships
family and the watch. This is a common and it was the lifeboats job to get them
story among Valparaisos inhabitants; aboard in order to pass the storm out at
after all Valparaiso was the first South sea. They would also have to rescue wat-
American city to even have a Sea Rescue chmen on wrecked ships, most of which
Squad. It was founded in 1925 and had a were anchored directly in front of the
shipping container in the port as its hea- Santa Maria University. Watchmen were
dquarters for fifteen years. But in 1940, known to bring their families aboard, in-
thanks to the heroism of volunteer res- cluding pets, which at times also needed
cuers during a storm, they were awarded to be rescued. A reward at the end of a
a place on the pier. The Lifeboat resides tiring day rescuing was a Grog: cognac
on its current location since 1950. or rum mixed with boiling water and fire-
dried sugar, which was one of Captain
In the first years of its existence, volun- Christiansens traditions.
teer rescuers would launch to sea in row
boats. Since the later half of the 1900s, Now it is not necessary for us to reach
the latest technology at hand was lifeli- the ships. The Port Authority announces
ne-launching canons which were used foul weather and the ships either anchor
with a lift to lower people from the ships or leave, says Carvajal. A great deal of
to their lifeboats. Today, the Sea Rescue the Sea Rescues work is done on the
Squad has fast lifeboats and wave run- beach rescuing distraught swimmers.
ners at its disposal.
It is not easy to enter the Sea Rescue
The work being done by Carvajal when Squad; first you must enter as a guest.
he came on to the squad was very di- Then you wait to receive the highest of
fferent than todays work. There were honors: a thank you. In fact, at Captain
no weather forecasts, nor did they have Christiansens funeral in 1963, Carlos de
covered boats; volunteer rescuers wor- la Fuente, who was a merchant marine,
ked on deck in foul wind and swells. We broke all protocol and emotionally gave
knew when foul weather was coming our the Captains final farewell by thanking
way because the barometer pressure him for having saved his life in 1929.
68 Tradiciones
Gentileza Cuerpo de Voluntarios de los Botes Salvavidas.
Primera embarcacin a motor de la institucin, construida en 1904. Fue bautizada como Carlos Artiga, en honor al benefactor homonimo.
Gentileza Cuerpo de Voluntarios de los Botes Salvavidas.
Traditions 69
136 Breve historia urbana
Valparaso
por reas
Valparaso
by areas
137
1.- Cerro Barn y entorno
138
Introduccin
Introduction
Esta segunda parte del libro est de- This second part of the book is dedi-
dicado a caracterizar y describir el Val- cated to characterizing and describing
paraso de hoy. Para tan amplia tarea, todays Valparaiso. For this arduous
se dividi la ciudad en cinco reas que task, the city was divided into five areas
funcionan como unidades sociales dis- that are considered distinct social units,
tintas, cada cual con sus caractersticas each having their own urban charac-
urbanas propias. Estas son: Cerro Ba- teristics. These are: Cerro Barn and
rn y entorno, El Almendral y entorno, surroundings, Almendral and surroun-
Sector Centro, Barrio Puerto y entorno, dings, Downtown, the Port Neighborho-
y Playa Ancha y entorno. od and surroundings, and Playa Ancha
and its surroundings.
De la mano de mapas y fotografas, se
introducen estos sectores. A continua- Maps and photographs will be used to
cin, se describen sus principales bie- introduce these areas. The citys main
nes culturales inmuebles localizados en cultural landmarks, buildings and place
el rea y se mencionan ciertos hitos y names will be described below. These
rasgos toponmicos. Destacan algunas include churches, funicular elevators,
Iglesias, Ascensores, Monumentos Na- National Monuments, public buildings,
cionales, Edificios Pblicos, Plazas, ca- squares and other places of cultural in-
lles y otros lugares de inters cultural. terest. Also in this section, you will find
Tambin en esta seccin, el lector y el some practical information about the
usuario de la Capital Cultural encuen- Cultural Capitals main tourist attrac-
tra algunos datos prcticos para cono- tions.
cer y recorrer sus principales atractivos
tursticos. Finally, with the purpose of enhancing
the descriptions, each area will include
Por ltimo, con el propsito de enri- a personal testimony. In this way, our
quecer las descripciones, cada sector readers will get to know the stories of
incorpora un testimonio personal. De Helen Flores, Cristbal Gaete, Vctor
esta manera, el lector podr conocer el Hugo Bustamante, Carlos Fierro and
relato de Helen Flores, Cristbal Gaete, Gride Ballesteros, who have agreed to
Vctor Hugo Bustamante, Carlos Fierro share their memories and anecdotes
y Gride Ballesteros, quienes, desde su through their particular perspectives
particular asiento y trayectoria en la and paths.
ciudad, han accedido a compartir sus
recuerdos y ancdotas.
139
1.- Bordemar oriente
4
2
142
Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas
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6
Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas
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11
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Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas
12
1.- Mirador Barn, conocido como La baranda.
Ascensor Lecheros.
Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas
Mi familia proviene de Irlanda, pero al yora llegaron a ser propietarios de sus a mi viejo le toco tener tres mujeres en
llegar al pas perdi su apellido, se lo viviendas, entonces las familias se han la casa y de la Kalahuala por un sector
cambiaron a Flores. Mi familia viva en mantenido por generaciones. Hay otros histrico, un barrio bravo, que nos dis-
el centro de Valparaso, en un cit que que han vuelto, porque muchos emigra- tingue. Ser del Barn y ser bruja de la
se llama La Troya, en Avenida Francia. ron y despus volvieron. Kalahuala es terrible, es lo mximo. Hi-
Despus del terremoto de 1866 se fue al cimos unas treinta exposiciones afuera
Cerro Barn, en 1870, y de ah ya no nos Mi abuelo, Jos Flores, era un zapatero del ascensor Barn; era un espacio para
hemos movido. remendn, pero primero fue pintor. Mi la duea de casa que pintaba. Fue tanto
pap fue oficial de la Armada y mode- que una seora despus hizo una expo-
De nia recuerdo que haba mucha lista en cuero; haca zapatos de baile. sicin en una universidad en Pars. Los
convivencia barrial, se jugaba ms en Iba con mi mam a las competencias pequeos gestos pueden dar vida a un
la calle, se comparta mucho, haba de baile en las quintas de recreo y to- gran paso. Tambin formamos el Nudo
ms solidaridad entre vecinos. Eso ha dos llegaban a pata pelada porque le Barn, que agrupa a las organizaciones
cambiado. El barrio se despoj de cosas compraban los zapatos a mi pap; eran culturales y comunitarias de varios ce-
que eran importantes: tenamos la Far- modelos nicos. En eso se ganaban la rros del sector, para gestionar una gran
macia Soto Rojas, al frente el Banco del vida, bailando! sala multiuso en el antiguo mercado
Estado, en la Avenida Portales estaba el municipal. Ya hay gente instalada, hay
correo con el tpico buzn rojo afuera, Mi padre tena una pieza en un cit y se una persona que hace mosaicos, un ta-
las carniceras, haba casas de costura, llev a mi madre a vivir ah cuando se ller de teatro. Hay movimiento.
amasandera, la botillera de la familia casaron. Haba un bao para todas las
Caroca. Los lugares eran grandes; re- familias, un solo medidor de agua y luz. Cmo va seguir este cerro va depender
cuerdo que la carnicera del seor Mena Cuando yo iba a nacer, mi padre dijo: de cmo se trate la gente entre s. Del
tena cermicas blancas y negras, no Hay que ampliar esto, y se han puesto respeto. Se est trabajando en eso, gra-
como las cosas chicas que hay ahora. a trabajar en la noche de ao nuevo. nito a granito, y yo creo que se va a lo-
No haba necesidad de bajar al plan, te- Ahora la casa es de tres pisos. Los cit grar porque veo el trabajo de los ms j-
namos todos los servicios a la mano. eran comunes en el Barn porque las venes, ellos se mueven. El destino est
propiedades eran caras y los espacios en las manos de ellos, en nosotros est
Este cerro empez a formarse cuando pocos. Esta propiedad, como terreno, es el traspasar la experiencia y la historia.
construyeron la lnea frrea; las fami- carsima. A m me han ofrecido mucha
lias de los ferroviarios se asentaron ac plata y yo no la pienso vender, para que
y algunas en el Cerro Larran. Hay una instalen un edificio? No.
poblacin aqu al costado de la Iglesia
San Francisco. Ms la gente de oficio, Lo que nosotros potenciamos desde el
artesanos, como los afiladores de cu- Centro Cultural Brujas de la Kalahuala
chillos, los msicos, los pintores, los es el buen vivir y el buen convivir. Las
zapateros, todos los que hacan trabajos buenas costumbres, los buenos tratos,
manuales, se fo rm el Barn. La ma- los respetos. Se llama brujas porque
My family comes from Ireland, but when ners, musicians, painters, shoemakers, What we are trying to encourage here
they arrived in this country they lost their all the people who do manual labors at the Witches of the Kalahuala Cultural
last name, they changed it to Flores. My were formed here on Barn. The majori- Center is good living and good communi-
family lived in the center of Valparaiso, in ty of which became owners of their own ty living. Including good manners, good
a working class multiple dwelling buil- homes, so the families have stayed here treatment with each other and respect.
ding called La Troya, on Francia Avenue. for generations. Some have come back, We are called witches because my dad
After the earthquake of 1866, my family because many emigrated and later re- had to live with three women in the house
went to go live on Cerro Barn in 1870 turned. and Kalahuala is named after this his-
and we havent moved from there since toric area, which is a real tough neigh-
then. My grandfather, Jos Flores, was a shoe borhood that set us apart. To be from
repairman, but he first was a painter. Barn and to be a witch of the Kalahua-
As a child, I remember this was a vi- My dad was an officer in the Navy and a la is terrible, its the maximum. Weve
brant neighborhood, there was more leather artisan; he made dancing shoes. done about thirty shows right outside
playing out in the streets, we shared lots I would go with my mom to the dance the Barn elevator; it was a space de-
of things, and there was more solidarity competitions in various pleasure villas dicated all the housewives who painted.
among neighbors. All that has changed. and everyone would arrive barefoot be- It got to be so famous that one woman
The neighborhood got rid of many impor- cause they would buy their shoes from later had a show at a university in Paris.
tant things: we had the Soto Rojas Phar- my dad; they were one of a kind. This was Small gestures can lead to the next great
macy, across the street was the Estado how he made a living: dancing! step. We also formed the Nudo Barn,
Bank, on Portales Avenue was the post which groups cultural and community
office with its typical red mailbox outsi- My father had a room in this building and organizations of several of the hills in
de, the butchers, tailoring shops, bake- he took my mother to live there when they the area to be able to use a large hall at
ries and the Caroca family liquor store. got married. There was one bathroom for the former municipal market. There are
These places were big, I remember that all the families living there and only one already people installed there, there is
Mr. Menas butcher shop had white and light and water meter. When I was almost one person making mosaics and also a
black tiles, not like the small shops you born, my father said: We have to make theater studio. There is definitely some
find nowadays. There was no reason to some additions to this, and they started movement.
go down to the city plain, all the services working on it on New Years Eve. Now the
were close by. house is three stories high. These types The future of this hill depends on how
of communal living situations were very people treat each other. Respect is key.
This hill began to populate when the common on Barn because properties We are working on that, grain by grain,
railroad was built; the families of the were expensive and there was no room and I believe we will be successful be-
railroad workers settled here and some to spare. The land of this property is very cause I see the work of the other young
settled on Cerro Larran. There is a sett- expensive now. They have offered me a adults, and they get things done. Our
lement here next to the San Francisco lot of money for it, but I dont intend on destiny is in their hands and we are in
Church. There are also working class selling it, so that they can put a huge charge of passing on these experiences
people, such as artisans, knife sharpe- building? No way! and our history.
5.- Almendral
5
4
156
Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas
6
Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas
7
3
2
Almendral y entorno
Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas
Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas
11
Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas
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157
1.- Puesto de feria libre, Avenida Argentina.
1
13 9.- Mercado El Cardonal.
14
Parque Italia.
Teatro Municipal.
Congreso Nacional
Pontificia Universidad Catlica de Valparaso
Mercado El Cardonal.
165
166
Biblioteca Severn.
Catedral de Valparaso.
Ascensor Monjas.
Edificio Consistorial.
Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas. Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas. Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas.
Arco Britnico.
Almendral y entorno
Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas. Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas.
Visitas
Visits
Para comodidad del turista, comenza- hacerse caminando, por calle Ferrari, house museum has been preserved just
mos la visita en lo ms alto del cerro, aprovechando de admirar el Paseo de as when it was inhabited by the poet and
especficamente en La Sebastiana (ca- los Sueos, plazoleta decorada por la his wife. It is full of paintings, sculptu-
lle Ferrari 692 en Cerro Florida), una de comunidad con coloridos mosaicos de res, shells, ship figureheads, maritime
las tantas residencias del poeta Pablo cermicas. objects, stained glass and bottles, all
Neruda. Esta casa museo conserva las spread out on the houses five floors. As
pinturas, esculturas, conchas, mas- Una vez en el plan, el itinerario puede you exit the house museum, the hill slo-
carones de proa, elementos nuticos, incluir la visita al Museo de Historia Na- pes down to a small arts and crafts fair,
vitrales y botellas que coleccionaba el tural (calle Condell 1546), el que cuenta where you can buy souvenirs related to
vate, en su disposicin original. A la con ocho salas donde se exhiben piezas the poet and the city in general.
salida y comenzando a bajar el cerro, e informacin sobre ms de veinte mil
se encuentra una pequea galera de especies animales y vegetales, muchas
puestos artesanales, donde pueden ad- de ellas endmicas de la zona. A un cos-
quirirse souvenirs relacionados con el tado funciona la Galera Municipal de
poeta y la ciudad en general. Arte, pero actualmente (junio de 2010)
se encuentra cerrada por los daos del
Al llegar a calle Sarratea, viraremos a reciente terremoto.
la izquierda para continuar el descenso
por la calle Hctor Calvo. De este modo, Terminamos la excursin en Plaza Vic-
pasaremos por el costado de la Parro- toria, antiguo centro social de la ciu-
quia Nuestra Seora del Carmen (fron- dad, que en la actualidad cuenta con un
tis por calle Parroquia), que sirvi de quiosco de msica en metal labrado,
convento a la congregacin Carmelita cuatro estatuas que representan las
entre 1931 y 1981. estaciones del ao, una fuente de fierro
forjado trada desde Francia y dos leo-
Mi nombre es Cristbal Gaete Araya, Es increble, pese a lo cotidiano, ver los no quedar corto. Son cientos las vidas
soy hijo y hermano de pilastreros del carretones de mano con cientos de kilos que se desarrollan en El Cardonal; son
Mercado El Cardonal de Valparaso. tirados por un hombre que no muestra otras tantas las que terminan girando
Como mi padre ya tena negocio cuando cara de sufrimiento; es increble ver las por el espacio en una carroza, despi-
nac, imagino mi primera ida en la guata sonrisas cuando cargan cajones, atena- dindose de l, en el ltimo rito de des-
de mi mam. En mis recuerdos, veo un zando con los dientes el saco que prote- pedida.
lugar siempre atestado de gente, arras- ge el hombro. Es una lucha que se libra
trado por mi madre o con mi padre en la da a da, y de eso hay conciencia cuando
pilastra algn da domingo, ayudando. se camina al horizonte con los pies jodi-
Las visitas en algunos veranos fueron dos por el fro y la carga.
ms asiduas que en otros, pero pude
llevar a cabo mis estudios tranquilo. Creo que observando el Mercado se
Terminada mi carrera, opt por volver puede degustar una historia de la comi-
como forma de subsistencia. da chilena, se puede or una historia de
los transportes, y todo ello sumado nos
Maduro, pude ver las particularidades puede hablar de nuestra sociedad. En la
del espacio, algunas ms evidentes que mitad del siglo pasado, cuando las pi-
otras. Someramente: el diseo raciona- lastras cerraban, haba una vida comn
lista del edificio es desestructurado por en el entorno. Hoy, creo que el entorno
el uso de comerciantes establecidos y sigue determinado por El Cardonal, pero
ambulantes rozndose, inconciente- de una manera ms eficaz, sistmica.
mente unidos; las races agrcolas del Esto ha desarrollado una nostalgia de
barrio almendral reviven cada maana aquellos tiempos, y si bien es cierto que
entre verduras y frutas, si no oyes los otros espacios han tomado preponde-
camiones, podra ser una madrugada rancia, el Mercado no ha dejado de ser
de comienzos del siglo pasado; es vivi- un espacio vital para la supervivencia de
do por gente que sale de madrugada de los porteos y, probablemente, uno de
sus casas y se desliza como lgrimas los principales espacios pblicos de la
por las bajadas de los cerros, para lle- ciudad, ya que aparte de las transaccio-
gar con el cuerpo caliente a levantar las nes de frutas y verduras hay intercam-
cortinas metlicas, mientras el resto de bios simblicos que contienen la posibi-
la ciudad sigue dormida. Y cada vez que lidad de afecto de la cotidianidad.
bajan deben arrastrar a alguien ms
con ellos; familiares, conocidos que no En el libro que escrib el ao pasado,
tienen manera de sobrevivir en la mi- Mercado El Cardonal, trat de contener
croestructura de los cerros. parte de estas ideas, pero es imposible
Mi name is Cristobal Gaete Araya, son asleep. And as they stroll down they ca- Most of these ideas appeared last year
and brother of market vendors or pi- rry with them someone else, family or in my book Mercado El Cardonal. There
lastreros as they call them, at the El friends to become part of the workforce, are hundreds of stories tied to El Car-
Cardonal Market Place in Valparaiso. someone that would not be able to sur- donal and some will end up in outer-
My father had a small business or pi- vive in the jobless structure of the hills. space or in a funeral procession biding
lastra there when I was born, so I could farewell as a last rite.
imagine my first visit there inside my In the daily rambling you could see tho-
mothers womb. In my memory, I visua- se heavy hand pushed carts, manned
lize a place always packed with people by just one person, hauling hundreds of
and I am being dragged by my mother kilograms and no trace of stress in their
or helping at my fathers vendors post faces; their smiling faces when moving
on a Sunday morning. In the summer, heavy cases or the clench of their teeth
my visits to the market were more often to hold on to the sack pad that protects
than other times and I could successfu- their shoulder. It is a day-to-day stru-
lly finish my schooling. After graduating ggle, and they can feel it in those heavy
I opted to return to the marketplace to feet frozen by the cold and the heavy
make my living. weight.
As a mature man I could see the I think that by watching the Mercado,
marketplaces characteristics from a you can already have a feel of the his-
different perspective and some of them tory of Chilean food and transportation
were more evident than others. In brief: in the country and all of that sums up
the buildings rational design is broken to a description of our society. By the
up by the way the established and am- 1950s, after closing time, there was
bulatory merchants use the space, still a common feeling of life in the en-
everyone entangled, and united in an vironment. Nowadays, El Cardonal mar-
unconscious fashion. In this neighbor- ket keeps the neighborhood bound in a
hood of El Almendral, each morning you more systematic and efficient manner.
could hear the vendors shouts, remi- Other places have become more impor-
niscent of their farming roots, offering tant but the Mercado has this nostalgic
fruits and vegetables If it were not for feeling and is still a vital point for liveli-
the noisy truck engines it could be the hood of the porteo life and without do-
early 1900s. All of this is experienced ubt, a main public space in the city, not
early in the morning, by people leaving only for the fruit and vegetable transac-
their homes in the surrounding hills, tions, but also as a symbolic exchange
flowing down like tears, eager to lift up of affection of day-to-day existence.
their metallic gates while the city is still
Downtown 173
1
174
Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas
Sector centro
Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas. Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas
Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas
8
6
Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas
Downtown
175
Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas
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10
Downtown 177
Patrimonio Urbano
Urban heritage
Sector Plaza Anbal Pinto En el de disidentes se encuentran los cfico entre Panam y Punta Arenas en la
restos de David Trumbull, fundador en dcada de 1930. De fines de 1897, ocupa
Antigua Plaza del Orden, recibe su actual Chile de la Iglesia de Jesucristo de los gran parte de una manzana longitudinal
nombre en 1884, ao en que se constru- ltimos Das, y de varios marinos norte- y estrecha. Sus cuatro pisos tenan una
ye su tradicional Fuente del dios Neptu- americanos que murieron a bordo de la capacidad para 300 pasajeros y desta-
no. La Plaza acta como un verdadero Fragata Essex. En el Catlico se encuen- caba por su refinamiento, comodidades,
articulador del sistema de la zona baja, tran los restos de Juan Williams Rebo- terminaciones de estilo clsico francs y
entre las calles Prat y Esmeralda. Su en- lledo, Luis Uribe Orrego, Jorge Montt, fina gastronoma. Despus de la Segun-
torno mantiene una impronta comercial Enrique Simpson, Los Baburizza, Renzo da Guerra Mundial cedi protagonismo
y es un polo de atraccin turstica. Pecchenino, Pbro. Rubn Castro, entre ante sus smiles de Via del Mar.
otros.
En uno de los costados de la plaza se Prximo al hotel se ubica el Edificio del
encuentra el tradicional Caf Riquet Frente a los camposantos se ubica la Diario El Mercurio, a los pies del Cerro
(1931), que pronto reabrir al pblico. denominada Ex Crcel, el edificio ms Concepcin. Comenz a ser levantado a
En la vereda opuesta est el Bar y Res- antiguo del Puerto. Posee un sector que fines de 1899 y participaron en l el inge-
taurant Cinzano (1896), el Edificio de la data de 1808, cuando era un recinto des- niero Augusto Geiger y el arquitecto Car-
Cooperativa Vitalicia (1907) y la Librera tinado al almacenamiento de plvora. los Barroilhet. El edificio inaugurado en
Ivens. Al otro costado se encuentra el Desde 1846, el almacn empez a ser abril de 1901, representa la arquitectura
Hotel Dimmier, mandado a edificar por utilizado como presidio y poco despus historicista. Frente a la cpula que hace
la ciudadana francesa Aurelia Dimmier se construy la crcel pblica en torno a esquina se encuentra la estatua del dios
en 1857. Posteriormente, cambi su l. La plazoleta de acceso fue construi- Mercurio.
nombre por el de Hotel Donnay. da en 1880 en un terreno cedido por la
Municipalidad, entre las calles Castro, En la convergencia de las calles Prat y
En el Cerro Panten se encuentran los Cumming y Crcel. Cochrane, destaca el Edificio Reloj Turri,
Cementerios Catlicos N 1, 2 y de Di- en pleno barrio financiero. En estricto ri-
sidentes. Fueron creados en la primera Hasta fines de la dcada de 1990 funcio- gor, se llama Edificio Agustn Edwards,
mitad del siglo XIX y desde el 2005 po- n como centro de detencin preventiva; pero su nombre popular lo hered de
seen la categora de Monumento Hist- luego fue ocupado como centro cultural. una Casa de cambios que all exista.
rico Nacional. Los Cementerio N1 y el Recientemente, ha suspendido su oferta Data de 1923/1924 y es obra de Geiger.
de Disidentes comparten la calle Dina- de artstica de cara a lo que ser el futu- Este edificio tipo Crucero, donde algunos
marca, tpica calzada de adoquines del ro Parque Cultural Bicentenario. aseguran naci la fotografa en Chile, tie-
antiguo Valparaso, con dos huellas en ne una torre esquina con un reloj suizo
el centro para el paso de los vehculos. Otro edificio que destaca en los alrede- de cuatro esferas que anuncia con cam-
Contrasta la entrada monumental del dores de la Plaza Anbal Pinto es el que panadas los cambios horarios. Es uno de
cementerio catlico -que incluye una re- ocup el Hotel Royal, en calle Esmeralda los smbolos ms caractersticos de la
produccin en escultura de La Piet- con (esquina Almte. Martnez). Fue el ms ciudad.
la austeridad del de disidentes. grande y clebre hotel de la costa del Pa-
Downtown 179
in the middle of the financial district. highlights of its architecture are its cur- su ornamentacin. El torren, los mira-
Strickly speaking, its name is the Agus- ved corner, classical French style and dores, bow-window, terrazas y mansar-
tn Edwards Building, but its popular its dome. das le dan un sello caracterstico.
name was inherited from the Stock Ex-
change which was housed here. Built in Cerros Concepcin y Alegre En 1971, el palacio fue adquirido por la
1923/1924, it was designed by Geiger. Municipalidad de Valparaso para servir
This ship-like building, where some say Dos smbolos del asentamiento extran- de Museo y de Escuela de Bellas Artes,
photography started in Chile, has a cor- jero en estos cerros, especialmente de reuniendo una importante coleccin
ner tower with a Swiss clock with four ingleses y alemanes, son la Iglesia An- pictrica, entre ellas, la propia donacin
faces, which chimes hourly. It is one of glicana Saint Pauls y la Capilla Evang- de Pascual Baburizza. Entre sus pintu-
the most iconic symbols in the city. lica Luterana en el Cerro Concepcin. ras destacan obras de Rugendas, Valen-
La primera data de 1858, autora del zuela Puelma, Alfredo Helsby y Carlos
At the same height, but facing the sea, is arquitecto ingls William Lloyd. Fue Hermosilla. En 1979 es declarado Mo-
the Luis Cousio Building, which is also erigida en tiempos en que no exista li- numento Histrico Nacional. Luego de
a ship-like or bow-like construction. It bertad religiosa, ello explica su discre- ms de una dcada de cierre, se espera
was built between 1881 and 1883, in ho- ta arquitectura exterior: de baja altura, que este ao reabra sus puertas, gra-
nor of the buisnessman Luis Cousio. sin cruz, torre ni campanario. Elemento cias a un proyecto del PRDUV en ejecu-
The building is located on lands gained caracterstico del templo es su rgano, cin y que, con una inversin de ms de
over the sea and is the only landmark adquirido por la comunidad en 1903 y 1.800 millones de pesos, permitir en
of the original port seafront, which was consagrado a la memoria de la Reina 2011 la rehabilitacin del palacio como
developed in the economic boom from Victoria. Destacan tambin los vitrales museo.
the trade of saltpeter. y dos placas de bronce (al costado del
baptisterio) que recuerdan a los porte- Cerro Concepcin and Alegre
It has withstood several fires, break- os de origen ingls cados en las dos
ins and the systematic destruction of its guerras mundiales. Fue declarada Mo- Two symbols of foreign settlements on
interior, although the main brick struc- numento Histrico Nacional en 1979. La these two hills, especially British and
ture and faade have held up. This buil- Capilla Evanglica Luterana, fue cons- German, are the Saint Pauls Anglican
ding is located within the Typical Zone truida en 1897 de acuerdo al proyecto Church and the Lutheran Evangelical
of Valparaiso and harmonizes historicly de los hermanos Bliederhauser. Erigida Chapel on Cerro Concepcin. The for-
and stylistically with buildings such as en un terrero irregular de pronunciada mer dates back to 1858 and was built
El Mercurio, The Harmnton Building, pendiente, es una clsica postal tursti- by the British architect William Lloyd. It
the former Caf Viens and the Banco ca del Cerro Concepcin. was erected in a time when there was
del Pacifico. A recient arrangement with no religious freedom, hence its discre-
the Municipality has allowed the Valpa- Uno de los emblemas del Cerro Ale- te exterior architecture: it is short, has
raiso campus of the DUOC Foundation gre es el Palacio Baburizza en el Paseo no cross, tower nor belfry. An elemental
to acquire the building. Yugoslavo. Construido por Barison y trait of this church is its organ, which
Schiavon en 1915-1916 para la familia was acquired by the community in 1903
The corollary to this financial and com- Zanelli, una de las ms importantes de and dedicated to Queen Victoria. Also
mercial district is the Valparaiso Stock Valparaso. Fue adquirido en 1925 por noteworthy are its stained glass win-
Exchange Building. The creation of the Pascual Baburizza, distinguido empre- dows and two bronze plaques (next to
Stock Exchange dates back to 1898. In sario salitrero. Este edificio es un claro the baptistery), which commemorate
1905, its name was changed to Stock exponente del eclecticismo, con ele- the fallen British descendant soldiers
Brokers Exchange. After a long run, mentos art-nouveau visibles en su fa- from Valparaiso who died in both World
including periods of liquidation, it mo- chada. Destaca la belleza y armona del Wars. It was declared a National His-
ved to 798 Prat Street, in a building by conjunto, la hermosura de sus lneas toric Monument in 1979. The Lutheran
Carlos Federico Claussen (1915). The arquitectnicas y la riqueza exterior de Evangelical Chapel was built in 1897 by
Downtown 181
Sotomayor Square and surroundings Sasso Scampini. It is home to two of the the way for pedestrians/seafarers and
oldest fire companies: The American give the impression of an entrance/exit
On one side of the square is the Cour- Co. and The Germania Co. portal to the city from the sea.
thouse. This land was previously used
by the Augustine order and in 1870 the On the opposite side of the Sotoma- Ascensor El Peral
Courthouse was moved to this area. It yor Square there are two buildings that
was demolished in 1903 due to its de- make a distinctive mark on the urban Su estacin baja se ubica a un costado
terioration. The current building da- landscape. First is the Reina Victoria de los Tribunales de Justicia. Su esta-
tes back to 1937 and was designed by Hotel, which occupies a space that has cin alta va a dar al paseo Yugoeslavo.
Augusto Geiger; it is an example of a traditionally been used by hotels. It was Fernando Edwards y Juan E. Naylor fue-
frontal type building, surrounded by built in 1902, by the architect Esteban O. ron los impulsores del proyecto. Una s-
three urban spaces: the Justice Square, Harrigton, for the former Ingls Hotel, lida estructura de ladrillos obtenidos de
the Pasaje El Peral and Toms Ramos which was damaged by a fire in 1897. la demolicin de la antigua intendencia
Street. Afterwards, the building was occupied (1900) permiti soportar su estructura
by the Torino Hotel and, finally, by the de rieles. Actualmente, su propietario
Its historicist architecture, with monu- Reina Victoria. Although the property es el Municipio. Entr en funcionamien-
mental Greco-Latin portals and a statue is very narrow, the hotel has a view of to en diciembre de 1901 para satisfacer
of the goddess Themis from 1876, gi- the square from every room. The other las demandas de los habitantes del Ce-
ves the area an austere civic look. Pre- noteworthy building belongs to the rro Alegre y ofrece una vista privilegiada
ceding this area is another important Sudamericana de Vapores Company. del sector Puerto de la ciudad. En 1998
building: the Navy Headquarters. This The CSAV, which is very much a part fue declarado Monumento Histrico
building was inaugurated in 1910. It was of Valparaisos history, was founded in Nacional.
designed by architect Ernesto Urquieta 1872, through the merger of two natio-
to house the government of the State of nal shipping companies. Today it is one El PRDUV est realizando estudios tc-
Valparaiso and the residence of the go- of the most important companies in nicos para licitar la reparacin de este
vernor, on the same land where the first South America. ascensor y as garantizar su buen fun-
State Building was demolished (1900). cionamiento.
The building originally belonged to Casa
Because of its location and unique pre- Rosse-Innes, which imported mining El Peral Elevator
sence it dominates the Sotomayor Squa- and farming machinery. In May of 1995,
re. Its faade has a variety of plaster The bottom station is located beside the
Sudamericana de Vapores Company
cast and faux-stone ornaments that are Courthouse. Its top station connects to the
completely refurbished the interior of
indicative of new century. The building Yugoslavo Promenade. Fernando Edwards
the building, while keeping its original
is topped with a dome and a clock. The and Juan E. Naylor were responsible for
faade (1876) and perimeter walls. It is
main entrance leads to a grand marm- the design and building of this elevator.
clearly an atypical architectural fusion
bol staircase with two small balustra- To support the tracks, its solid structure
that gives Sotomayor Square a distinc-
des. Currently it houses the Command was built using bricks from the demolis-
tive look.
Headquarters of the First Naval Zone. In hed State Building (1900). Currently it is
1979 it was designated a National Histo- On the other side of Sotomayor Square, owned by the city. It first opened in 1901 to
ric Monument. in front of the Heroes Monument and satisfy the demands of residents on Cerro
the Command Headquarters Building, Alegre and offers an unequalled view of
At the edge of the square is the Fire De- are the Customs Bureau (1932) and Port the citys port. In 1998 it was designated a
partment Headquarters, on lands that Station (1935). Both were designed by National Historic Monument.
have traditionally been used by the Fire Luis Herreros E. The buildings boast a
Department. The current building dates The PRDUV is doing technical research
modern architectural style, built with
back to 1955 and was designed by Italo to repair the elevator and thus keep it in
reinforced concrete. The towers guide
good working order.
Federico Page was put in charge of The first ever funicular elevator that
building a new water ballast elevator transported passengers between the
to connect 2nd Elias Alleyway (bottom city and a hill was the Concepcin
station next to Anbal Pinto Square) and Elevator, inaugurated in November of
the Dimalow Promenade (top station, 1883. When it was first built, it only had
accessed via a bridge), on privately ow- two wooden stations and only its wheels
ned lands. The elevator was inaugura- and tracks were metal. It used to have a
ted in March of 1903 and was the second steam engine. Today it is electrical.
elevator to serve the residents of Cerro
Alegre and Concepcin. Its top station It is one of the best preservered mani-
now has a playground. In 1998, the Rei- festations of the citys industrial heri-
na Victoria Elevator was declared a Na- tage and one of the most visited tourist
tional Historic Monument. attractions. It is also known as Ascen-
sor Gervasioni, because of the Gerva-
During 2008 and 2009, the PRDUV ca- sioni Promenade which is the location
rried out works that have kept the ele- of its top station, as well as, Ascensor
vator in good working order. Turri, which is the name of the former
business that occupied the ground floor
Ascensor Concepcin of the A. Edwards Building (Reloj Turri)
since 1925. Its bottom station is on Prat
El primero de los ferrocarriles funi-
Street. It was declared a National Histo-
culares que transportaron pasajeros
ric Monument in 1998.
entre el plan de la ciudad y un cerro
Downtown 183
184
Cementerio Disidentes.
Ascensor El Peral.
Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas
Reloj Turri.
Iglesia Anglicana.
Ascensor Reina Victoria.
Sector centro
Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas
Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas
Bolsa de valores.
Downtown
Palacio de Justicia.
Sudamericana de Vapores.
Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas
Estacin Puerto.
Comandancia de la Armada.
185
Visitas
Visits
El itinerario comienza en el Cerro Ale- pasar. Imperdibles son las vistas de los
gre, hasta donde llegaremos a travs principales miradores: paseos Atkinson
del Ascensor Reina Victoria, ubicado en y Gervasoni en el Cerro Concepcin, y
Avenida Elas, al que se accede subiendo Yugoslavo en el vecino Cerro Alegre. Se
por calle Cumming desde la Plaza An- recomienda recorrerlos en este orden,
bal Pinto. En poco ms de una cuadra y para descender al plan a travs del As-
media, podremos observar un sinfn de censor El Peral.
pequeos bares de universitarios y res-
taurantes, as como la clsica prgola de El Paseo Atkinson domina desde las al-
las flores, que abastece a los cemente- turas a la Plaza Anbal Pinto y proyecta
rios ubicados cerro arriba, en el Cerro la vista hacia la vecina ciudad de Via del
Panten, por esta misma calle. Mar. En la poca estival suelen agrupar-
se vendedores ambulantes de arte y pe-
Una vez en el Paseo Dimalow (estacin queos grupos musicales. El paseo Ger-
alta del Ascensor Reina Victoria), inicia- vasoni, por su parte, contiene espacios
remos la caminata admirando el legado de renombre en Valparaso, como el Caf
arquitectnico de las colonias inglesa y Turri, el Gran Hotel Gervasoni y la Casa
Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas
alemana, que reprodujeron en este ba- Mirador de Lukas, que fuera residencia
rrio la vida como la conocan en su tierra del destacado dibujante. Su estampa
natal, pues no slo construyeron sus ca- adoquinada y la excepcional panormica
sas y almacenes, sino que tambin sus que entrega de toda la baha, lo convier-
propios colegios, iglesias y hospitales. En ten en uno de los sitios ms concurridos
los ltimos aos, el Programa de Recu- por los turistas. Adems, tiene un as-
Paseo Mirador Atkinson. peracin y Desarrollo Urbano de Valpa- censor de acceso directo, el Concepcin,
raso, PRDUV, ha realizado un trabajo de cuya estacin baja llega a la calle Prat.
renovacin y recuperacin de fachadas y
calzadas, como tambin ha implementa- Finalmente, el paseo Yugoslavo ofrece a
do una adecuada iluminacin peatonal y los visitantes el avistamiento de parte de
sealtica para los turistas. los recintos portuarios y el molo de abri-
go con sus buques de guerra. Sobre este
Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas
Downtown 187
The Atkinson Promenade towers over can also see the Fire Department Hea-
the Anbal Pinto Square and projects dquarters, the Customs offices and the
the view towards the neighboring city now defunct Reina Victoria Hotel. There
of Via del Mar. During the summer you is also the National Council on the Arts
Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas
can find groups of people selling street and Culture Gallery, which holds one of
art and small music groups. The Gerva- the main exhibition galleries in the city.
soni Promenade has renowned points Underneath the square we find the In
of interest in Valparaiso, such as the Situ Museum, which opened in 2001.
Caf Turri, the Gran Hotel Gervasoni This museum holds the vestiges of the
and the Lukas Casa Mirador, which was first public pier of Valparaiso (1825). The
Consejo Nacional de la Cultura y las Artes. the residence of this well-known Val- pier was built using the remains of the
paraiso artist. Its cobblestone look and first Esmeralda, which was a Spanish
its exceptional panoramic view of the vessel captured by the Chilean fleet in
bay make it one of the most frequented 1820.
places by tourists. Furthermore, it has
the Concepcin funicular, which conve- To the north is our final destination: the
niently arrives on the promenade and Prat pier. The port in this area is compri-
Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas
has its bottom station on Prat Street. sed of a seafront and many ship loading
zones for both shipping and fishing ac-
Finally, the Yugoslavo Promenade tivities. From here you can take a boat
offers visitors a view of the port and the tour of the bay, which includes seal and
breakwater pier with its war ships. On bird watching as well as an up and clo-
this promenade is the Baburizza Pala- se view of the anchored ships in the bay.
Recorrido turstico por la baha. ce, which is one of the iconic buildings The seafront also has a small arts and
in the Heritage Area. This building holds crafts fair, where you can buy souvenirs
an important art collection since 1971; of the entire tour.
however, the museum is now currently
undergoing repairs. Its architecture
boasts an eclectic style with notorious
art nouveau elements, as well as many
towers and columns.
Siempre tuve el bichito de la literatu- europeas en las que no hay ningn ar- vida ha estado aqu. Es leyenda, es parte
ra. Por el ao 85 me hice vendedor de bolito. Pero ocurre que en Valparaso de la cultura de Valparaso. El grabador
revistas importadas y uno de los clien- las plazas no solamente son centro de Loro Coirn un da me dijo: Voy a ha-
tes que tena eran los dueos de esta reunin, sino lugares de distribucin cer tres postales: una donde salga la
librera, don Guillermo Buhler y Berena de los barrios: la gente pasa por aqu estatua de Neptuno tal cual est en la
de Buhler, ambos ya de bastante edad. para ir al Cerro Concepcin, para ir al fuente; la segunda, en la que no est;
La seora atenda a los clientes y, como cementerio, para ir a Bellavista; es un y, la tercera, en la que Neptuno se baj
era alemana, vena toda la comunidad lugar de paso. y est mirando la vitrina de la librera
alemana a comprar revistas y peridi- Ivens. La verdad que esa idea la invent
cos en alemn. Era el punto de reunin. Por ac pasa toda la comunidad del el Pato Gonzlez, un dibujante extraor-
Por eso don Guillermo siempre me arte. No slo la gente que pinta, sino que dinario. Ya muri. Gran personaje el
dijo:- Don Vctor, si yo le quito la librera los poetas, los msicos, mucha gente. Pato Gonzlez. Hay hartos personajes
a mi seora, la mato. Pero le prometo Sigue siendo un centro de reunin. Les en Valparaso.
una cosa, cuando mi seora fallezca, se presto el subterrneo para lanzamiento
la vendo. Y, palabra de alemn, as fue de libros, para ensayar, para entrevis-
hace doce o trece aos. tas. Tom una actitud paternalista, por-
que veo que estn todos desamparados.
Don Guillermo le compr la librera a Tambin viene gente que vive sola y no
un polaco y ste a don Jos Ivens. Ha tiene con quien conversar. Pasan las
tenido varias ubicaciones. Estuvo en la mams con los cabros chicos a leerles
calle Esmeralda, luego Blanco, despus cuentos. En invierno vienen las seoras
OHiggins y ahora aqu. Lo que me gusta a comprar revistas de manualidades;
de estar en la Plaza Anbal Pinto es que siempre estn haciendo algo. La co-
llega gente a preguntar desde si tengo munidad alemana sigue viniendo, pero
mquinas de afeitar, hasta adnde que- cada vez hay menos viejos y los nuevos
da la Intendencia. Y muchos turistas. son chilenos con apellidos alemanes,
Despus vuelven a Valparaso y pasan a que no compran las revistas en alemn.
saludar o te dan las gracias o te traen Los viejos s, es su nico placer.
un presente o, simplemente, se van y te
mandan tarjetas. Es bonito. Las personas, en general, tienen un
amor por las cosas antiguas que per-
Desde que yo tengo la librera han manecen en Valparaso, entonces re-
cambiado dos veces la plaza. En rea- conocen la librera, la quieren como es,
lidad, pienso que nunca ha sido para la quieren as, bonita, llena de libros,
mejor. Conoc la plaza cuando tena jar- de revistas, llena de gente, de gringos.
dn, era relinda. Pero la transformaron Algunos creen que la librera ha esta-
en una plaza dura; copiaron las plazas do ac hace 150 aos. Dicen: Si toda la
Downtown 189
Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas.
Victor Hugo Bustamante Herreros.
I have always been a bookworm. By have changed it. I knew the square when gos. Some think that the bookstore has
85 I became an imported magazine sa- it had a garden and it was really beautiful. been here for 150 years. They say: Yeah,
lesman and one of my clients was the But they paved over it; they were trying its been here all along. Thats a myth,
owner of this bookstore, Mr. Guillermo to copy the European squares that dont its just part of Valparaisos culture. The
Buhler and Berena de Buhler, both of even have trees. In Valparaisos case, engraver Loro Coirn once said to me:
whom were quite old. The wife atten- squares are not only a meeting place, Im going to make three postcards: the
ded customers, and because she was but also a place of distribution to all the first will have the statue of Neptune as
German, the entire German commu- neighborhoods: people come through it is in the fountain; the second one will
nity would come to buy magazines and here to go to Cerro Concepcin and to not have the statue of Neptune; and the
newspapers in German. It was a mee- Cerro Bellavista; it is a passageway. third one will have Neptune stepping
ting place. For this reason, Mr. Buhler down and looking through the window
always told me: Victor, if I take the bo- The entire art community comes of the Ivens bookstore. The truth is that
okstore away from my wife, it would kill through here. Not only people who this idea was invented by Pato Gonzlez,
her. But I promise you one thing, when paint, but also poets and musicians, a who is an extraordinary illustrator. Hes
she dies, Ill sell it to you. And he kept lot of people. It continues to be a mee- dead now. He was a character that Pato
his word, so he sold it to me around ting place. I lend out my basement for Gonzlez. There are a lot of characters
twelve or thirteen years ago. book launchings, to practice, for inter- in Valparaiso.
views. I took on a paternalist attitude
Mr. Buhler bought the bookstore from a because I see that everyone is helpless.
Polish man, who had bought it from Mr. There are also people who live alone and
Jos Ivens. It has moved to many loca- have no one to talk to. Mothers come by
tions. It was on Esmeralda Street, then to read stories to their children. In the
it was on Blanco Street, later it was on winter, women come to buy magazines
OHiggins and now it is here. I really like on handicrafts; they are always working
being here in the Anbal Pinto Square on something. The German community
because people come up and ask me continues to come by, but every time
if I sell shavers or if I know where the there are less old men and the new ones
State Building is. And there are many that come in are Chilean with German
tourists. Later, they return to Valparaiso last names, who dont buy German ma-
and they come by to say hi or they say gazines. The old guys do, its their only
thank you or they bring a present or they pleasure.
simply leave and they send postcards.
Its pretty. People in general have a love for old
things that remain in Valparaiso, so they
Since Ive owned the bookstore, they recognize the bookstore, they love it as
have changed the square twice. To tell is, they want it this way, full of books,
you the truth, I think they never should magazines, full of people, mostly grin-
Downtown 191
1.- Cerro Arrayn
194
Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas
7
5
Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas
195
1.- Fuente de Plaza Echaurren.
Ohiggins Inn
It is said that it was Bernardo OHiggins
place of retreat when he visited the city.
Poblacin Mrquez.
Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas
Aduana de Valparaso.
Posada de Ohiggings.
Edificio de la Plaza Echaurren.
Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas
Iglesia La Matriz.
Currently, these streets have been the city and take the Cordillera funicu-
refurbished through the Valparaiso lar to the hill with the same name, you
Urban Development and Restoration will arrive at the Eleuterio Ramrez
Program in order to preserve their Square, which is shaded by old Pittos-
heritage. The work done includes: re- porum trees. The square is notewor-
furbished faades, stained glass and thy for being located in the middle of
Casona Cochrane.
equipment used in businesses and ho- the hill and for being surrounded by
mes, also refurbished were the paths buildings that were of great signifi-
and stairwells and more work will be cance for the architecture in the time
done on the connectivity of the entire they were built. This is true for the re-
area. Nevertheless, it is recommended sidential complex La Igualdad, which
that you visit the area during the day to was refurbished and was formerly the
avoid any kind of inconvenience. Escuela Igualdad that belonged to a
French non-governmental organiza-
We begin the tour by walking down La tion.
Matriz passage, arriving at the church
with the same name. Here stands the Finally, we walk down Merlet up to
fourth version of this chapel; the three the Cochrane House, a typical colonial
previous structures were destroyed by Chilean house dating back to 1843,
earthquakes. As we continue walking making it one of the oldest houses
up the hill on Cajilla Street we begin in the city. In 1963, it was declared a
to enter the residential area, which National Monument. It has an exclu-
was developed without city planning sive view of the bay and it is where
Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas
and was built by hauling everything the President of the Republic enjoys
by mule, which was the only form of the fireworks show for the New Years.
transportation on the hills in colonial Currently (June, 2010) it is undergoing
times. This is how the first trails were repairs.
made on the hill, which are now the
intricate paths and stairwells on Cerro
Calle Cajilla.
Nac el ao cincuenta y dos en el barrio bandistas. Cuando se armaban pelea se sus pichangas, toman su caa de vino.
OHiggins, pero toda mi vida he sido del peleaban a combos, despus se daban Tambin viene el Chico Stay, que anima-
puerto. Yo vena de nio al Liberty con la mano y se acababa, no como ahora. ba la bote Manila y el Hollywood en ca-
mi pap. No admitan menores, uno te- Pero como haba pura gente de respe- lle Chacabuco. Igual que Jorge Faras,
na que estar acomodado con el garzn; to, me refiero a que eran choros, vivos, el cantante, siempre andaba por ac.
bueno, hasta ahora. Era bonito, era ms se conocan todos. Era un diario vivir, Cuando se muri, sacamos un parlan-
largo, lo cortaron. Los viejitos venan a vivan todos por aqu, Cerro Cordillera, te para afuera con su msica. Pusimos
jugar cacho y domin. Tambin actuaba Cerro Arrayn, la Poblacin Mrquez. una mesa en la vereda con tres garrafas
una orquesta. Yo se lo compr a Jor- Todos trabajaban en el puerto. y un tarro. Todos los porteos que pa-
ge Vega, el Motoneta, el ao noventa y saban cooperaban. Con la plata arren-
cinco; y Vega se lo compr a la Negra Las prostitutas de la cuadra chica damos dieciocho micros y compramos
Linda. llegaban hasta calle San Martn con veintids coronas. Haba ms de cuatro
Cochrane; no podan pasar para la Pla- mil personas despidiendo al finao.
Antes, en los sesenta, todos los restau- za Echaurren, y las nias de la plaza
rantes actuaban en conjunto, era tanta tampoco podan pasar para la cuadra Aqu nunca se van a acabar los bares
la afluencia de pblico! Esto parta a las chica. En calle Clave estaban los pros- porque la gente es buena pal vino; los
ocho de la noche; la gente llegaba re- tbulos de los homosexuales: la Casa chilenos somos as. Yo quiero ser due-
cin a almorzar a esa hora. Donde est Amarilla, Los Siete Espejos, el Miss o del Liberty hasta el final. Me fascina,
el supermercado haba puros restau- Merry homosexuales, travestis, mu- porque aqu no falta el que te tira una ta-
rantes chiquititos: La Rinconada, El Fe- jeres haba de todo! Tambin estaba El lla y ten que estar vivito. Ese es el diario
rrocarril, la Juana Chica, el Estndar. Se Siete Machos, pero era un restaurante vivir del puerto. Aqu te sentai en la Pla-
llenaban todos los das. Exista la cua- de mala muerte no ms, el que quera za Echaurren y sab todo lo que pas en
dra chica: de la Aduana hasta la Plaza pelear se meta a ese restaurante. Des- la noche, es un diario oficial. Igual que
Echaurren por calle Cochrane. Estaba el pus vino el ao setenta y tres y empez los pueblos chicos cuando dicen pueblo
American Bar, el Black & White, el Yako, a morir el barrio; si mora la cuadra chico infierno grande.
el Roland Bar, La Caverna del Diablo. chica, mora todo el barrio. Ah llegaba
Eran puros prostbulos!*. Se llenaba de el que venda huevo, el que venda snd-
marinos, estibadores. Cuando llegaban wiches, tortillas, el motemey; ah todos
*Algunos de estos, como el Roland Bar y el
los UNITAS se cerraba la cuadra porque se ganaban la vida.
Yako, no eran prostbulos sino tabernas.
eran totalmente desordenados. Se daba
mucho el contrabando; antes no exista Hoy da vienen al Liberty ex estibado-
el contenedor, de eso viva todo el puer- res, empleados pblicos, bancarios,
to. Haba gente muy respetada, como el marineros de baha, lancheros. Hay
Yako, un caballero que tena una discote- una mesa del Wanderers y otra del Colo
ca, pero con msicos de esos antiguos, Colo. Los del Wanderers han venido toda
con orquesta, con batera, cornetas. Ah su vida, tienen arriba de setenta aos,
llegaban todos los choros, los contra- llegan como a las cuatro de la tarde, ven
I was born in 52, in the OHiggins neigh- several well respected people, such as mer longshoremen, public service wor-
borhood, but I have lived my entire life in Yako, who owned a discotheque, but with kers, bankers, sailors and boat drivers.
the port. I would come to the Liberty with live music with a big band, they had a There is Wanderers table and also a Colo
my father as a child. They didnt allow drummer and a horn section. All sorts Colo table. The Wanderers table has
anyone underage, so you had to know of smugglers and raunchy people would been coming here all their life, most are
one of the waiters; well, until know. It hang out there. When a fight would break over 70, they come at four in the afterno-
was pretty back then, it was longer too, out, the two guys would shake hands and on and they watch their pichangas (soc-
and theyve shortened it. Old men would then move on, its not like that now. But, cer game) while they drink wine shots.
come to play cacho (poker dice) or do- because there were so many well respec- Chico Stay also comes here, he used to
minos. There was also an orchestra that ted people, Im refering to all the raunchy MC the Manila and Hollywood nightclubs
played here. I bought it from Jorge Vega, and low life people, they all knew each on Chacabuco Street. The singer Jorge
known as the Motoneta, in 95 and befo- other. It was experience seen on a daily Faras always used to come around here.
re me Vega had bought it from la negra basis, they all lived in and around Cerro When he died, we put our speakers out
Linda. Cordillera, Cerro Arrayn, the Mrquez on the street playing his music. We put
neighborhood. They all worked in the a table on the sidewalk with three demi-
A while back, in the seventies, all the port. johns and a bucket. All the porteos that
restaurants would collude forces, and walked by would throw money in. With
theyre were so many people! It would The prostitutes from the small block that money we rented eighteen buses
start around eight; people would just be would walk up to San Martn Street and and we bought twenty-two wreaths. The-
coming in to lunch at that hour. Where Cochrane; they werent allowed to pass re were over 4 thousand people who bid
the supermarket now is, theyre used to Echaurren Square and girls from the him farewell.
be several small restaurants: Rinconada, square werent allowed to walk from
Ferrocarril, Juana Chica, Estandar. They square past the small block. On Clave The bars will never die out here, because
would get full everyday. There was also Street were the gay brothels: La Casa people here drink a lot of wine; we Chi-
the small block: it started at the Cus- Amarilla, Los Siete Espejos, Miss Me- leans are like that. I want to be the ow-
toms building and it ended in Echaurren rry gays, transvestites, women. There ner of the Liberty all the way to the end. I
Square on Cochrane Street. There was was everything! There was also El Siete love it here because there are some witty
The American Bar, Black & White, Yako, Machos, but it was a squalid restaurant, people here and you have to be on your
Roland Bar, La Caverna del Diablo. They people were always fighting in there. toes. This is life here on a daily basis. You
were all brothels!* They would fill up Then, 73 happened and the neighborho- can sit here at Echaurren Square and you
with sailors and longshoresmen. When od started to die down, even the small can find out about everything that happe-
the UNITAS would come, the entire block block, it all came down. Thats where ned last night, its almost like an official
would shut down because they would the one who sold eggs, sandwiches, tor- newspaper. Just like what is said about
make such a big mess. There was also tillas, and motemey would go to make a small towns: small town, big hell.
a lot of contraband going on; we didnt living.
have containers back then, so the entire *Some of these, such as the Roland Bar and
port made a living off of that. There were Today, the guests at the Liberty are for- Yako were taverns, not brothels.
5
4
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Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas
6
Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas
3
2
11
10
Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas
12
211
Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas
13
1.- Avenida Altamirano.
12.-Universitarios.
14
Pasaje Harrington.
Avenida Gran Bretaa.
Fotografa de Raiza Vera Ugas
Pasaje Harrington.
217
Visitas
Visits
Comenzamos en el Paseo 21 de Mayo avanzando por Avenida Altamirano. Este
del Cerro Artillera, al que se puede lle- paseo fue acondicionado a comienzos
gar caminando, en locomocin colectiva del siglo XX: se agregaron muros de
o por el Ascensor Artillera. Esta calle contencin, escalinatas para bajar a
Yo pas toda mi infancia y juventud Loren, bien voluptuosa, con el pelo ne- despus de jugar en el Parque Alejo Ba-
en la Avenida Gran Bretaa. La Plaza gro y ella blanquita. Su hija se cas con rrios, se iban a tomar su vinito.
Waddington era el centro social, nos el hijo de don Pepe Lagomarsino, ese s
juntbamos todos los nios del barrio. que era bachicha, tena una heladera y Hoy como que la gente est muy aden-
bamos al colegio ac mismo en Playa panadera. tro de sus casas. Yo soy presidente de la
Ancha. Antes de que existiera el Liceo asociacin gremial de artesanos y mi-
N 3, hubo un parque ah, frente al Re- La procesin de la Virgen de Lujn, que croempresarios AARMIVAL y hacemos
gimiento Maipo, que se llamaba San Pe- es la virgen de los huasitos, era la ms actividades en la Plaza Waddington,
dro. Era precioso, con rboles, ocupaba linda de todas las procesiones, porque vendemos nuestras cosas e invitamos
toda la manzana. Y frente a la Plaza se haca con una carreta y bueyes, llena a artistas emergentes de Playa Ancha;
Waddington viva el Payo Grondona, el de flores, con la virgen chiquitita aden- tenemos a nuestro propio Adamo. Tam-
cantautor. Estbamos todas enamora- tro. Llegaban todos los huasos a caba- bin le ped al comandante si podamos
das de l. Sacbamos flores de la plaza llo, con la estampita de la virgen en el volver a la tradicin de la retreta y ahora
y le tirbamos ptalos de cardenales. sombrero y la gente se paraba en los tocan cada quince das.
muritos para verlos pasar. Iban por Ave-
A Playa Ancha le dicen repblica inde- nida Playa Ancha y se devolvan por Gran Yo viv en Buenos Aires y cuando volv,
pendiente porque siempre ha tenido de Bretaa hasta la Iglesia San Vicente. Lo mis amigas me decan: Gride, cmo
todo, lo nico que nos falta es una fbri- otro lindo era el 21 de mayo, porque an- puedes ser tan loca de devolverte!, y
ca grande. Tenemos universidades, el tiguamente los marinos y militares se yo les dije que para m Playa Ancha es
regimiento, liceos, banco, correo. Inclu- iban a pie y se venan a pie de la Plaza nico. All, llegar al mar, me tomaba
so tuvimos cine, estaba el Teatro Iris y Sotomayor, entonces tenamos desfile ocho horas, ac voy caminando y llego
el Oden; el Iris en Gran Bretaa, frente propio; para nosotros era una fiesta. a la playa. Quin me regala a m eso?
a la plaza, y el Oden por calle Patricio Igual que los das domingo, despus de Nadie.
Lynch hacia arriba. Haba rotativos todo la misa de medioda estaba la tradicin
el da. Con las pelculas de vaqueros de que la banda del Regimiento Maipo
la gente se esconda porque pensaban tocaba la retreta en la plaza.
que los disparos iban a salir a la platea.
Ah vi las pelculas de Elvis Presley, que Nosotros estamos acostumbrados a vi-
pareca que nosotras bamos a verlo de vir con marinos y militares, pero lo que
verdad, era un loquero esa plaza! A m ms haba en ese tiempo eran banca-
hasta se me perdi un zapato una vez rios, profesores, abogados, escritores.
por la aglomeracin de gente. En el Quinto Sector ya haba gente obre-
ra. Hoy en da, hay ms gente adulta
En la Avenida Playa Ancha, el comercio que nios. Estudiantes hay muchos. En
era casi todo de familias italianas y es- el sector de las universidades estaban
paolas. El Almacn Naval era de una las quintas de recreo; la Martnez era la
italiana hermosa, se pareca a la Sofa ms famosa. Los futbolistas amateur,
Ive lived my entire childhood on Gran families. A beautiful Italian woman ow- the Martnez was the most famous one.
Bretaa Avenue. Waddington Square ned the Naval grocery store. She looked All the amateur football players would
was the social center; all the children like Sofa Loren, very voluptuous, with go there to drink wine after playing at
from the neighborhood would meet the- black hair and very white. Her daughter the Alejo Barrios Park.
re. We were all in school, right here in married Pepe Lagomarsinos son; he
Playa Ancha. Before the Public School was very bachicha (Italian), he owned an Nowadays it seems like people spend
3 was built there was a park in front of ice-cream store and a bakery. more time inside their houses. I am pre-
the Maipo Regiment, it was called San sident of the artisans and small busi-
Pedro. It was beautiful, with trees; it The procession of the Virgin of Lujn, ness guild AARMIVAL and we organize
took up the whole block. And in front shes the virgin saint of the huasos (cow- activities at the Waddington Square, we
of Waddington Square was where Payo boys), was the prettiest of them all, be- sell our handicrafts and we invite emer-
Grondona lived, the songwriter. We cause it was done with oxen and wagon, ging artists to Playa Ancha; we have our
were all in love with him. We would pick full of flowers, with a small statue of the own Adamo. I also asked the comman-
flowers from the square and we would Virgin inside. All the huasos would arri- der if we could go back to having the re-
throw cardinal flower petals at him. ve by horse, with a small stamp of the treat played and now they play it every
Virgin on their hats and people would fifteen days.
Playa Ancha is called an independent stand all along the walls to watch them
republic because it has always had go by. They would go down Playa Ancha I lived in Buenos Aires but when I came
everything; the only thing missing here Avenue and come back on Gran Bretaa back my friends would tell me: Gride,
is a big factory. We have universities, up to the San Vicente Church. The other how could be so crazy to come back!
the regiment, public schools, banks and pretty event is the 21 de mayo, becau- and I said that for me there is only one
post office. We even had a movie house, se the sailors and marines would come Playa Ancha. Over there it would take
the Iris and Oden Theaters; Iris was and go from Sotomayor Square, so we me eight hours to get to the beach, here
on Gran Bretaa, in front of the squa- had our own little parade, for us it was I can walk to the beach. Where else can
re, and Oden was at the top of Patri- a real party. Like every Sunday, after you have that? Nowhere else.
cio Lynch Street. They played movies all mass, the Regiment band would play
day. When the westerns started coming the retreat out on the square.
out, people would hide under their seats
because they thought the gunfire would We were accustomed to living with sai-
hit them. Thats where I saw movies of lors and the military, but most in those
Elvis Presley; it was like he was really days were bankers, teachers, lawyers
there. It could get really crazy in there! and writers. The Fifth Sector was mostly
I remember I lost a shoe there once be- working class families. Today, there are
cause there was a big mob of people. more adults than children. There are
many students too. In the area whe-
The businesses on Playa Ancha Avenue re the universities now are, was where
were almost entirely Italian and Spanish many people had their pleasure villas;