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Director: James Posso Snchez James_posso@hotmail.com Cel 990958425 M rpm #619026 Cel 950110472 C Asociacin Civil an Per: Ao 2013 / Derechos Reservados Jr. Tiahuanaco 128 - Lima 28 - Per caminoperuano@yahoo.com Gerente General: Carmen Beatriz Posso Snchez Gerente Comercial: Walter Valderrama Ponce Editor: Rolly Valdivia Chvez Diseo: Flor Paz Quispe Correccion de Estilo: Juan Carlos Bondy E. Traduccin: Stephen Light Mapas: Rafael Ocaa / Edith Saquicuray / Helard Rivera / Autocolca Asistente de Ventas: Rosario Casafranca Medina Colaboradores: Juan Puelles / Luis Yupanqui / Pedro Samallani Saul Caipani /Jose Ramos / Wilian Lazarte / Andreina Huallpa / Sadith Figueroa Fotografas: James Posso / Juan Puelles / Saul Caipani Luis Yupanqui / Rolly Vadivia Retoque Digital e Impresin: Grfica Biblos S.A. Jr. Morococha 152, Surquillo Portada: Catarata de Huaruro - Colca / James Posso Agradecimientos: Municipalidad Provincial de Caylloma / AUTOCOLCA / Gobierno Regional de Arequipa / Municipalidad de Tapay / Municipalidad de Lluta / USAM-Colca / Club de Andinismo Cusco / Carlos Leyton / Fredy Jimenez Email: caminoperuano@yahoo.com www.caminoperuano.com

Contenido Contents

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Palabras del Director

From the Director

Conociendo el paraso
Journeying into Paradise

Entrevista Elmer Cceres Llica

Interview Elmer Caceres Llica

Colca Sour El Colca desde su ro

Colca Canyon from the River

Un Rosario de Templos
A rosary of churches

Herencia de piedra
Legacy of stone

El vuelo del condor Relatos de caf

Coffee Tales

The flight of the condor

De lneas y petroglifos
Lines and petroglyphs

Mount Ausangate

Apu Ausangate

Palabras del Director

L

From the Director

a Asociacin Civil an Per, una ONG sin fines de lucro, da un paso muy importante en su visin de desarrollo turstico al concretar uno de sus objetivos: la elaboracin de esta revista de viajes que llenar el vaco existente en la difusin de nuevas rutas y destinos. La carencia de publicaciones similares en los ltimos aos ha impedido que muchas provincias y distritos del Per tengan la posibilidad de mostrarse a nivel nacional e internacional.

Nuestro pas es un lugar privilegiado en el mundo. Su legado cultural, natural, eco deportivo de aventura, sus costumbres religiosas, su exquisita gastronoma y su cariz rural son parte de su rico potencial turstico. Si a eso le sumamos su variedad de pisos ecolgicos, sus diferentes climas, su magnfica biodiversidad y su potencial agrcola prdigo en productos originarios, es fcil darse cuenta de que todava hay mucho por hacer, investigar y promocionar. Creemos que debemos fortalecer la actividad turstica en alianza y cooperacin mutua con las entidades estatales ms cercanas a la poblacin y que son la clave del desarrollo econmico. Nos referimos a los gobiernos locales y regionales. Nuestra intencin como ONG es unir esfuerzos para que esta actividad, en el corto, mediano y largo plazo, d resultados positivos, mejorando la calidad de vida y propugnando el manejo sostenible de los recursos. Nuestro primer ejemplar est dedicado al Colca. Sus rutas menos difundidas, su legado arqueolgico, su bebida de bandera, el colca sour, as como una expedicin de canotaje y kayak en su famoso can, son presentados en la primera parte de esta edicin. En las siguientes pginas, y siempre impulsados por un espritu de destacar lo novedoso, reconocidos periodistas, fotgrafos y exploradores comparten con nosotros sus travesas de lneas y geoglifos en Palpa, en la regin Ica, su lucha por conquistar una de las aristas del apu Ausangante en el Cusco y la aromtica ruta del caf en la provincia de Jan, Cajamarca. Queremos invitar a nuestros lectores a ser parte de esta revista, dando opiniones e informacin sobre lugares que necesitan ser difundidos. Nuestras pginas estn abiertas tambin a los jvenes fotgrafos naturalistas que anhelen mostrar su arte y los lugares menos conocidos de nuestra tierra. As me inici hace muchos aos y, ahora, puedo mostrarles con orgullo la primera edicin de an Per, una revista que ama al Per. The an Peru Civil Association, a non-profit NGO, hereby completes an important step in the development of its vision for tourism in Peru through the achieving of one of its goals: the creation of this travel magazine designed to fill the gap in the dissemination of new routes and destinations. The absence in recent years of similar publications has prevented many provinces and districts throughout Peru from attempting to present their potential at a national and international level. Our country is one of the worlds most blessed lands. Its cultural, natural, adventure and eco-sports attractions, combined with its religious traditions, exquisite cuisine and rural life all form part of its rich tourism potential. And if to this we add the variety of ecological floors, the different ecosystems, magnificent biological diversity and prodigious agricultural potential in the form of native produce, then it becomes clear that there is still so much more to be explored, researched and promoted. We believe that it is necessary to strengthen tourism activities through alliances and mutual cooperation with state institutions that work closely with the population and which are essential to economic development. By this we mean local and regional governments. As an NGO, our goal is to join forces so that this activity -in the short, medium and long term- will produce positive results, improving the quality of life of ordinary people and promoting the sustainable management of resources. Our first edition is devoted to Colca: we include its least well-known routes, its archaeological heritage, its emblematic beverage (Colca sour), as well as a rafting and kayaking expedition through its famous canyon. All these aspects are presented in the first part of this publication. In the following pages, spurred by a desire to promote new possibilities, wellknown journalists, photographers and travelers share with us their journeys to the lines and geoglyphs of Palpa, in Ica, their struggle to conquer the northeast face of Mount Ausangate in Cusco, and the aromatic coffee route in the Cajamarca province of Jan. We invite you our readers- to be part of this magazine, passing on to us your opinions, as well as information about littleknown places. Our pages are also open to young nature photographers looking for somewhere to showcase their work featuring the hidden corners of our country. That was how I got started many years ago, and now I am proud to present the first edition of an Per, a magazine that loves Peru.

James Posso Snchez Presidente de an Per Chairman of an Per

Journeying into Paradise

La catarata de Huaruro es un lugar impresionante por donde se lo mire. Durante todo el ao cuenta con agua. Para llegar se camina dos horas desde el corte de la carretera Belen-Tapay hasta el anexo de Fure. Desde ah son dos horas ms hasta la cada de agua. The Huaruro waterfall is an impressive sight from any angle. It is fed with water throughout the year. It is a two-hour walk from the Beln-Tapay road to the tiny village of Fure, from where it is another two hours to the falls.

Texto/Text: Rolly Valdivia Fotos/Photos: James Posso

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The hidden routes of Colca

Descubra algunas de las zonas menos conocidas de la provincia de Caylloma, en esta crnica que se escribi de una manera aunque pudo escribirse de muchas otras formas

Discover some of the least well-known zones of the province of Caylloma in this article written a certain way, although it might have been written in many ways.

ste relato podra empezar describiendo un trozo de hielo. Un trozo que no terminar convertido en raspadilla ni enfriando una bebida espirituosa. Tampoco es el producto de una nevera. Es natural, de agua pura, de laguna de altura. Tarde o temprano se derretir. El Sol con su calor se encargar de eso, aliviando a las aves que ahora la pasan un poco mal. Ellas ya no nadan. Ellas patinan.

This story could begin by describing a block of ice. I block of ice that will not end up chilling a soft drink or an alcoholic beverage, and which is not the product of snowfall. This is natural, pure, high altitude lake water, and sooner or later it will melt. The heat of the sun will see to that, and it will come as a relief to those birds who find themselves skating instead of swimming.

Pero esta crnica tambin podra iniciarse en una cocina donde no existe hielo ni aves patinadoras. Lo que hay son muchas sombras y varios leos encendidos sobre los que reposan una olla y una sartn. En esa penumbra una voz dulce, armoniosa, de muchacha de campo, describe a unas sirenas seductoras y a unos msicos que ofrendan sus guitarras y arpas.

But this story could also begin in a kitchen where there is no ice, and where there are no skating birds. What it does have is a lot of shadows and a number of logs burning in an open fire, upon which a saucepan and frying pan are resting. In this semi-darkness the sweet, harmonious voice of a country girl can be heard, speaking of seductive sirens and musicians who offer up their guitars and harps.

No es que uno quiere confundir a los lectores, pero debo agregar que esta historia podra comenzar, adems, con los apremios de un jinete sin experiencia y fervoroso creyente del dicho aquel que anuncia que a la tercera es la vencida. Es por eso que andaba asustado. Y es que su caballo que ms bien pareca una mula o que quizs fuera una mula, haba intentado botarlo en dos ocasiones.

I dont want to confuse my readers, but I must add that this story could also begin with the travails of a novice rider and fervent believer in that saying about third time lucky. That was what he was afraid of. His horse acted more like a mule. Maybe it was a mule. It had tried to throw him twice already.

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En toda la zona alta de la provincia de Caylloma se puede observar vicuas tan libres como el viento. Wild vicuas can be spotted throughout the highlands of the province of Caylloma.
De esas y de muchas otras maneras podra comenzar este texto. Si eligiera la primera, despus del hielo tendra que centrarme en la pequea iglesia colonial de un pueblo abandonado, vaco y fantasmal, que solo palpita vida cuando hay fiesta religiosa . Tambin, debera dedicarle varias palabras a las yaretas que proliferan en la pampa o a las vicuas ariscas que se escabullen cuando escuchan ruidos extraos. This text might have begun with those scenes or in many other ways. If I were to choose the first, I would have to continue by focusing upon the little colonial-era church of an abandoned village, empty and ghostlike, which only comes to life when there is a religious feast day. I would also have to devote a few lines to the plant known as yareta that grows all over the plains, or the wild vicuas that scuttle away when they hear unfamiliar noises. Todo eso antes de llegar a la base de un nevado y la naciente de un gran ro; no al velo bullicioso y persistente de una cascada o de esa catarata en la que segn Karina, as es como se llama la chica de la voz dulce, hay sirenas que encantan a los hombres menos avispados o ms enamoradizos. En esas aguas portentosas, comenta ella mientras prepara la cena, los guitarristas y arpistas afinan sus cuerdas. All this before one reaches the base of a snow-capped mountain and the headwaters of a river; or the roaring veil of a waterfall or that cascade where, according to Karina, for that is the name of the girl with the sweet voice, there are sirens that charm those men most susceptible to love. It is to these waters, she says while preparing the evening meal, that guitarists and harpists go to tune their instruments. Eso es lo que cuentan, eso es lo que creen algunos, no todos, jams el jinete de la tercera es la vencida. l no vio ninguna sirena cuando estuvo en ese lugar aparentemente mtico. Tampoco la ha descubierto hoy, aunque hoy, siendo sincero, nadie le ha hablado de encantamientos ni instrumentos de cuerdas, solo de vapores, montaas y aguas que hierven sin necesidad de teteras. That is what they say. That is what some people believe. Not everyone. That rider waiting to be thrown on the third attempt does not believe such things. He saw no sirens when he was there. And nor has he seen a siren today, although today, to be honest, nobody has spoken to him of charms and string instruments; just vapors, mountains and waters that boil without the need for kettle.

Todo eso ha ocurrido, todo eso lo he vivido, escuchado y sentido, mientras iba y vena por el valle, los pueblos y los caminos del can del Colca, el de mayor hondura del planeta con 4160 metros de profundidad, de acuerdo con la medicin de 2005, realizada por el expedicionario e investigador polaco Andrew Potowski. Aventuras profundas en la provincia de Caylloma. Viaje motorizado al Mismi y a la naciente del Amazonas en una maana de aguas congeladas y de insinuaciones de soroche. Jornadas de andar pundonoroso en senderitos quebradizos como el que conduce a la mgica catarata de Huaruro. Horas de susto, emociones y de cadas inminentes en el trayecto al humeante geiser de Pinchollo.

All that happened. I lived, heard and felt all that, as I drifted through the valley and its villages, and along the roads of Colca, home to the deepest canyon on the planet, measuring according to the latest figures from 2005 some 4,160 meters. That measurement was taken by the Polish adventurer and researcher Andrew Potowski. Adventures in the depths of the province of Caylloma; driving to Mismi and the headwaters of the Amazon River during a morning of frozen waters and the first symptoms of altitude sickness. Days spent advancing doggedly along narrow trails like the one leading to the Huaruro waterfall. Hours spent fearing a sudden fall on the way to the steaming geyser of Pinchollo.

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Aqu nace el Amazonas, en las faldas del nevado Mismi. Lo singular de este lugar es que el agua brota a presin de la roca por encima de los 5.100 msnm.

This is where the Amazon River begins, on the slopes of Mount Mismi. The water emerges from the rock at an altitude in excess of 5,100 meters.

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kilmetros) y que en su recorrido cruza la laguna de Ajuyani y el pueblo fantasma de Ran Ran, sea la fuente primigenia de un cauce que cruza valles, cordilleras y bosques, recibiendo el tributo de otras aguas en su bsqueda pertinaz del mar y las olas. La experiencia conmueve. Revitaliza. Abriga contra la temperatura extrema y contrarresta los sntomas del mal de altura. Uno se siente un descubridor, un explorador fogueado y no el caminante de paso dubitativo que se acerc ansioso pero agotado a esa catarata que es hogar de sirenas y refugio de msicos, segn los relatos odos en la diminuta localidad de Fure, en el distrito de Tapay. Es all donde Karina espera a sus huspedes. No son muchos. Uno que otro. De vez en cuando. Si llegan la rutina cambia y la soledad se esfuma. Los que vienen siempre tienen algo que contar. Ella los escucha, ella tambin participa, bromea, re, se divierte bajo la luz tenue de la bombilla y el resplandor de los leos. village of Ran Ran, is the source of a river that crosses valleys, mountain ranges and forests, receiving along the way the waters of other rivers and streams on its long journey to the sea. It was a moving experience, revitalizing somehow. I became oblivious to the extreme temperature and the first symptoms of altitude sickness. I felt like a discoverer, a hardened explorer, no longer the wary walker who had shambled exhaustedly as far as that waterfall which was home to sirens and a refuge for musicians, according to the tales spread throughout the small village of Fure, in the district of Tapay. That is where Karina awaits her guests. They are few and far between. When they arrive the daily routine changes and loneliness is banished. Those who come always have something to recount. She listens to them, participates in the conversations, sharing jokes and laughing, enjoying herself under the weak light of a single bulb and the glowing logs.

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Making for the headwaters

S, de esas rutas tratar esta nota que pudo empezar de muchas maneras, pero que, vaya uno a saber por qu, se inici con una mezcla de sensaciones y recuerdos de un lado o del otro. Quiz, estos destinos poco conocidos, emocionan tanto al viajero que, en su afn por compartir sus experiencias, se enreda, se desespera e intenta contarlo todo al mismo tiempo. Yes, these routes would feature in this article that could have started in so many ways, but which began instead who knows whywith a whole mixture of sensations and memories. Perhaps it is because these little-known travel destinations have enthralled the traveler to such a degree that in striving to share his experiences he becomes tongue-tied, desperate to recount it all in a single breath.

La laguna de Ajuyani alberga diversidad de aves silvestres y migratorias. Es paso obligatorio a la ruta del nevado Mismi. Lake Ajuyani is home to several local and migratory species and can be visited on the way to Mount Mismi.
Espero que sepan comprender y disculpar este atropello de ideas y evocaciones. Tratar de calmarme y ordenarme. Confo en poder controlarme, como al final por destreza, milagro o de pura chiripa logr controlar los afanes levantiscos de un caballo que capaz era una mula, aunque eso no mucho interesaba mucho. De lo que se trataba era de mantener el equilibrio y evitar un porrazo de padre y seor mo. Porrazo que, en la naciente del Amazonas, all en la quebrada Carhuasanta que est al ladito del Mismi, estuvo a punto de ocurrir, no por culpa de un caballo bandido, sino como consecuencia de un resbaln, cortesa del torrente precursor que I hope you will understand this and forgive this mass of half-formed ideas and evocations. I will try to calm myself and order my thoughts. Im sure I can control myself, just as I eventually managed through skill, a miracle or a stroke of luck- to control the rebellious nature of a horse that may well have been a mule, although that is beside the point. All I really did, I guess, was hang on, keep my balance and save myself from a nasty fall. And I almost had another nasty fall at the headwaters of the Amazon River, there in the Carhuasanta gorge not far from Mismi. This time it had nothing to do with an unruly horse. I simply slipped, the victim of that watercourse which begins its life by discurra por una pared de piedra y de los trozos de hielo que acechaban por ah y por all, como una fra amenaza para los caminantes venidos desde el distrito de Tuti. As, midiendo cada uno de mis pasos, logr acercarme al lugar que muchos consideran como la naciente del Amazonas, el ro mar, el gigante fluvial que desemboca en el ocano Atlntico. Al ver su modesto origen a ms de cinco mil metros de altura, pienso en el cauce desbordante que he visto y navegado en la selva pletrica de vida. Es increble que ese curso de agua, al que se llega por un camino carretero que surge en un desvo en las afueras urbanas de Tuti (su extensin es de 26 flowing down a rock wall, and the blocks of ice that form there, lurking coldly and threatening those walkers arriving from the district of Tuti. Stepping carefully, I managed somehow to get close to what many believe are the headwaters of the Amazon, that great waterway that flows all the way to the Atlantic Ocean. As I contemplated its modest beginnings more than five thousand meters above sea level, I thought of the huge river I had journeyed along amid the teeming life of tropical forests. It is incredible to think that this watercourse, accessed via a 26-kilometer road that begins on the outskirts of the village of Tuti and passes Lake Ajuyani and the ghost

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Capilla colonial de Ran Ran, rodeada de casas abandonadas. En poca de fiestas religiosas vuelve a tener vida por sus devotos.

The colonial-era chapel of Ran Ran, surrounded by abandoned houses. The faithful gather here for religious feast days.

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Cascada de 300 metros que forma velos de agua en distintos tamaos. Se ubica en el anexo de Fure. These 300-meter falls form veils of water of varying sizes. The falls are located near the village of Fure.

Water, a lot of water

La catarata de Huaruro es un tesoro escondido. Su difcil acceso desanima a ms de un turista. Eso de caminar o cabalgar dos das desde Cabanaconde, con su parada relajante en los baos de Llahuar, no convence a muchos. Prefieren ir a lo seguro, lo tradicional, los que todos ven: la Cruz del Cndor, las iglesias coloniales, los andenes prehispnicos. Quienes se atreven a retar a la distancia jams se arrepienten. El chorro incesante, con su impetuosa cada, impacta, refresca, alegra los sentidos, invita a soar, quiz con la sirena, tal vez con esos msicos que, segn dicen, llegan a la medianoche y dejan ah sus instrumentos, para que se afinen con los acordes naturales de esta catarata lejanamente ignorada. The Huaruro waterfall is a hidden treasure. Because it is hard to get to most travelers never see it. It takes two days to walk or ride there from Cabanaconde, with a relaxing stopover at the Llahuar thermal baths. Most travelers prefer the more traditional, less demanding option: Cruz del Condor, colonial-era churches, pre-Hispanic agricultural terracing. Those who dare to make the journey never regret it. That incessant flow, with its sudden drop, pounding impact and refreshing spray delights the senses, inviting one to dream, of sirens perhaps, like those musicians who according to legend arrive at midnight with their instruments to tune them to the natural music of this largely ignored waterfall. Lo que no se afin por ninguna razn o motivo es mi relacin con la mulacaballo. Esta empez con recelo en la Plaza de Armas de Pinchollo, donde Zacaras Oxsa recibe, atiende y convence a los forneos de visitar el giser de su pueblo en un autntico cuatro por cuatro. La distancia es de nueve kilmetros, que se recorren en un par de horas, aproximadamente. El trayecto no es demasiado complicado, excepto para aquellos que no logran despertar ninguna empata con su cabalgadura. En esos casos, hay que tratar de mantener el equilibrio como mejor se pueda y, en los momentos de calma, disfrutar de un paisaje de prdiga belleza que regala estampas memorables de la geografa colquea, pues se logra divisar ms de un nevado. There was never any harmony in my relationship with that horse-mule. Things got off to a poor start in the main square in Pinchollo, where Zacaras Oxsa meets strangers and convinces them to visit the local geyser on an authentic 4x4. It is a distance of nine kilometers, taking a couple of hours. It is not a particularly demanding trip, except for those who fail to bond in any way with their mount. In such cases, it becomes a matter of hanging on as best one can, and during calmer moments enjoying some of the prodigiously beautiful scenery offered up by the geography of Colca, dominated by more than one snow peak.

La movilidad se puede alquilar desde el distrito de Cabanaconde. Se sugiere ir en movilidad propia 4 x 4 o en mulas. Vehicles can be hired in the district of Cabanaconde. It is best to use your own 4x4 vehicle or travel by mule.

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El giser de Pinchollo se ubica a los 4.200 msnm. Al fondo se divisa el nevado Hualca Hualca, de 6.025 metros. Sus aguas alcanzan los 85C.

The Pinchollo geyser is located at an altitude of 4,200 meters. Its waters reach temperatures of around 85C. Mount Hualca Hualca can be seen in the background.

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As, entre la contemplacin y el susto, los malos jinetes que somos los menos arriban al giser, y, entonces, el miedo desaparece. En mi rostro se marchita el rictus de pnico y se dibuja una sonrisa de satisfaccin al ver la inmensa humareda que brota de un cauce formado por el deshielo del Hualca Hualca, uno de los apus tutelares del can, que se ve enhiesto y prominente en el horizonte. El geiser est a 4.250 metros de altura comenta Zacaras, y este se produce por una vena abierta del volcn Sabancaya. La temperatura de las aguas con contenido de azufre y salitre es de 85 grados, suficiente para hervir varios huevos. No saben mal y sirven para reponer fuerzas, y volver, otra vez, entre la contemplacin y el susto al punto de partida en el corazn del Centro Poblado Menor de Pinchollo, distrito de Cabanaconde. All termina el recorrido y tambin este texto que pudo comenzar de muchas formar, pero que acabar de una sola manera. Y es que en el cierre no hay dudas. Lo ltimo que quiero o puedo o me animo a decirles es que se atrevan a transitar las rutas menos conocidas del Colca, con sus trozos de hielo, sus sirenas que no aparecen y sus huevos hervidos en aguas volcnicas. Se puede pedir ms?

In this way, somewhere between contemplation and terror, bad riders make it to the geysers, where all fear is banished. My look of panic was replaced immediately by a satisfied smile, as I observed the immense cloud of vapor that emerges from a river formed by the melt waters of the Hualca Hualca, one of the canyons great sacred mountains, visible on the horizon. The geyser is located 4,250 meters above sea level, according to Zacaras, and emerges from an open vein in the Sabacaya volcano. The temperature of the sulfur and saltpeter laden water is 85 degrees, enough to boil several eggs. They dont taste bad and they provide us with the energy needed for the return trip, when once again somewhere between contemplation and terror I cover the distance between the geyser and Pinchollo, in the district of Cabanaconde. That was journeys end, and it will serve to end this story which might have begun in so many ways, but which can end just one way. For no doubts remain now, and all I want to say to you all is that you should make the effort yourselves to travel the least known routes through Colca Canyon, with their blocks of ice, invisible sirens and eggs boiled in volcanic waters. What more could you ask for?

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Elmer Cceres Llica:

Buscamos un turismo sostenible Our goal is sustainable tourism

The mayor of Caylloma and chairman of Autocolca shares with the readers of an Per his vision for tourism and his strategies for consolidating Colca Canyon as one of southern Perus main travel destinations.
infraestructura adecuada para los visitantes. Este ao hemos culminado el asfaltado de la carretera Yanque-Achoma. Actualmente estamos trabajando en la carretera Achoma-Maca, e iniciaremos la va Ichupampa-Lari, CallalliCaylloma, entre otras importantes carreteras. Mi visin es una Caylloma en la que se practique un turismo sostenible, donde se preserve la biodiversidad.Nuestra meta es recibir medio milln de turistas en 2015. Tambin quiero lograr que la gente est identificada con lo suyo, que valore y ame su tierra con todo lo que esta alberga, adems de respetar el medio ambiente. En ese sentido, sera perfecto que los pobladores usen materiales de la zona para la construccin de sus casas. finished the asphalting of the Achoma-Maca road, and we will soon be starting work on the Ichupampa-Lari and Callalli-Caylloma roads, among other important highways. My vision is that of a Caylloma that practices sustainable tourism, in which biological diversity is conserved. Our goal is to receive half a million tourists in 2015. I also want to make sure that people identify with what is theirs, that they value and love their land and everything that is contained within it, while respecting the environment. In this regard, it would be perfect if local people used local materials when building their houses.

De qu manera impulsar que cada vez ms distritos de la provincia se beneficien de la actividad turstica?
Promocionando los nuevos destinos tursticos y los cuatro sectores del Colca. La Ruta Alta, la margen derecha e izquierda y la Ruta del Ampato. Cada una tiene grandes potenciales que an no se han desarrollado del todo. En las zonas altas tenemos turismo vivencial y el canotaje en Sibayo, las cuevas de Mollepunko en Callalli y la iglesia de Tisco. En las mrgenes, derecha e izquierda, estn las andeneras, las iglesias coloniales y varios complejos arqueolgicos, como Uskallacta, Uyu Uyu,Yuraq Qaqa y Chimpa. En la Ruta del Ampato tambin hay mucho por descubrir. La catarata de Huaruro y Fure en Tapay, el giser de Pinchollo en el distrito de Cabanaconde, y, por supuesto, el grandioso nevado Ampato. Como alcalde y presidente de Autocolca,

How will you make sure that more districts in the province benefit from tourism?
This can be achieved by promoting new travel destinations and the four sectors of Colca: the Upper Route, on the right and left bank, and the Ampato Route. Each one has great potential which has still not been fully developed. In the highland zones we have experiential tourism and canoeing in Sibayo, the caves of Mollepunko in Callalli and the church in Tisco. On both the right and left sides of the canyon are agricultural terraces, colonial churches and a number of archaeological sites, such as Uskallacta, Uyu Uyu, Yuraq Qaqa and Chimpa. On the Ampato Route there is also much to be discovered: the Huaruro and Fure waterfalls in Tapay, the geyser at Pinchollo in the district of Cabanaconde, and, of course, magnificent Mount Ampato.

Igualmente, buscamos promover la escalada en roca, que cuenta con escenarios idneos en el Colca, como los Castillos Encantados de Callalli, entre otros lugares. Las cabalgatas, el trekking y el ciclismo de montaa son otras actividades que queremos promocionar, impulsar y desarrollar. Desde nuestra visin del desarrollo turstico, es importante la difusin a travs de las redes sociales, como Facebook, Twitter y nuestra pgina web que ha sido modernizada. Todo esto sin dejar de lado los medios masivos de comunicacin y nuestra participacin en ferias tursticas internacionales. De la misma manera, en agosto difundiremos, a travs de TV Per, el documental Colca, paraso profundo, una serie de seis documentales que ms adelante pensamos transmitir en las principales cadenas televisivas del mundo.

We want to promote adventure in Colca. In this regard, we have supported a kayak expedition from Canco to Majes, in which the participants were all Peruvian. We now want to invite foreign nationals to take part. Also, we are seeking to promote rock climbing, for which Colca offers many ideal scenarios, such as the Enchanted Castles of Callalli. Horse riding, trekking and mountain biking are other activities we want to promote, publicize and develop. Under our vision for tourism development, dissemination via social networking sites such as Facebook and Twitter is essential, along with our website, which has been fully updated. To this is added the contribution of traditional mass media and our participation in international travel fairs. Also, in August we will be promoting, via TV Peru, the documentary Colca, depths of paradise, a series of six films that we hope will be taken up subsequently by television networks around the world.

El alcalde de Caylloma y presidente de Autocolca comparte con los lectores de an Per su visin turstica y sus estrategias para consolidar al can del Colca como uno de los principales destinos del Sur peruano.

Cul es su visin y estrategia para el desarrollo turstico de la provincia de Caylloma?

Primero, potenciar su cultura mediante la gente; a partir de ello rescatar y restaurar los legados arquitectnicos de nuestros abuelos, como iglesias, andeneras, complejos arqueolgicos. Es decir, hay que ponerlos en valor, tal como se est haciendo con el Complejo Arqueolgico de Uyo Uyo y las iglesias del valle. Segundo, hay que preservar los recursos naturales y proteger la fauna y flora del Colca. En ese aspecto, ya hemos iniciado un programa de recuperacin de los cndores. El avistamiento de esta ave mtica es uno de los principales atractivos, no solo de la provincia de Caylloma, sino de todo el Per. Para cumplir ambas cosas, se debe invertir en el asfaltado de carreteras y la construccin de hospitales, y tambin se debe dotar de servicios bsicos para la poblacin y crear

What is your vision and strategy for the development of tourism in the province of Caylloma?
First, we seek to develop their culture through the people themselves: recovering and restoring the architectural legacy of our forebears, including churches, agricultural terracing and archaeological sites. In other words, these aspects must be restored, as we are currently doing at the Uyo Uyo Archaeological Complex and with the churches of the valley. Secondly, it is necessary to conserve natural resources and protect the fauna and flora of Colca. In this regard, we have launched a condor recovery program. The observing of this mythical bird is one of the areas main attractions, not just in the province of Caylloma, but also throughout Peru. In order to meet these objectives, investment is needed in the asphalting roads and the building of hospitals, and basic services must be provided for the local population, while adequate infrastructure is also required for visitors. This year we have

As the mayor and chairman of Autocolca,

qu nuevas rutas tursticas difundir y promocionar?

Mi estrategia de trabajo en el tema turstico se sustenta o tiene como base la promocin de eventos novedosos y singulares que posicionen al Colca en el mbito nacional e internacional. Adems, mi gestin impulsa el turismo de aventura, el vivencial y el mstico. Queremos promover la aventura en el Colca. En ese sentido, hemos realizado una expedicin de kayak con deportistas nacionales desde Canco hasta Majes. Ahora queremos invitar a remeros extranjeros.

what new tourism routes will you be promoting?

My strategy in terms of tourism is based upon the promotion of novel and unique events that position Colca in the national and international consciousness. Also, my aim is to promote adventure, experiential and mystical tourism.

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Colca Sour
El sancayo es un fruto silvestre que crece en la sierra del Per y en esta oportunidad es aprovechada por la municipalidad provincial de Caylloma para el lanzamiento de este delicioso trago. Este fruto es ctrico y tiene propiedades curativas para el hgado y su objetivo final es promocionarlo a nivel internacional.

COLCA SOUR
INGREDIENTES
4 sancayos 3 huevos (clara) Azucar (jarabe de goma) al gusto 8 onzas de pisco 8 cubos de hielo 1 vaso de agua hervida (fra)

(6 personas) (6 persons)

Lo preparan en la mayora de los distritos de la Provincia de Caylloma y es la bebida bandera del Colca. It is prepared in most of the districts of the province of Caylloma and is the emblematic beverage of Colca Canyon.

PREPARACIN
licuar los ingredientes (sancayo pelado, clara de huevo ,jarabe de goma ,hielo). Cuando se forme regular espuma y el hielo se haya triturado, servir y decorar con una pisca de canela molida.

Sancayo is a wild fruit that grows in the Peruvian highlands and it is now the focus of an initiative by the Caylloma local council to popularize this delicious beverage. It is a citrus fruit and possesses curative properties that benefit the liver. The aim of this campaign is to popularize it internationally.

PREPARATION
Blend the ingredients (peeled sancayo, egg white, cane syrup, ice). Once a good foamy mixture has been produced and the ice has been crushed, serve and decorate with a pinch of ground cinnamon.

INGREDIENTS
4 sancayo (a species of cactus fruit) 3 egg whites Sugar (cane syrup) to taste 8 ounces of pisco 8 ice cubes 1 cup of water (cold)

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El Colca desde su ro
Colca Canyon from the River
El inicio de la expedicin de canotaje desde Canco a Majes. La travesa dur cuatro das por las venas de la tierra. The start of the canoeing expedition from Canco to Majes. The trip lasted for four days through the veins of the Earth.

Texto/Text: Gustavo Rondon Fotos/Photos: Daniel Rondon

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Navegando en las profundidades del can

Remar en el ro Colca es una experiencia que marca para siempre. Entrese del por qu en esta crnica de rpidos y aguas revoltosas.
En la laguna del Indio, conocida tambin como el dique de los espaoles, nace el ro Colca. En su recorrido de 400 kilmetros hacia el Pacfico, atraviesa valles y zonas encaonadas que solo la memoria puede atesorar con mayor nitidez y resolucin que cualquier imagen fotogrfica. En mi mente conservo muchas imgenes del ro y, en mi corazn, guardo las sensaciones que viv en el cauce que forma el can ms profundo del mundo, sabiendo que la nica opcin era recorrerlo en su totalidad, aguas abajo, sin opcin a salir, de escalar por sus paredes y montaas, en las cuales no hay ningn vestigio de obra humana.

Navigating the depths of the canyon

Paddling the Colca River is an unforgettable experience. Find out why in this tale of rapids and raging waters.
At Indian Lake, also known as Spaniards Dyke, the Colca River is formed. During its 400 kilometer journey to the Pacific, it flows through valleys and canyons which remain in the memory with greater clarity than any photographic image can convey. I conserve in my mind many images of the river, and in my heart I keep those sensations I experienced as I traveled along the watercourse that forms the worlds deepest canyon, knowing from the start that there was no way back, and that I would have to complete the trip downstream, for there was no way to scale its walls and the mountains above, in a landscape where the hand of man has made little impression.

profundidades del Colca, uno se siente cerca del centro de la Tierra, uno siente que est navegando por sus propias venas..., uno se siente tantas cosas. En cada remada aprendes a respetarla y a quererla an ms. Y es que dependemos de ella y de la solidaridad de nuestros compaeros de travesa, para que cada expedicin sea un xito y un motivo de orgullo y satisfaccin. No cualquiera

the depths of Colca Canyon, one feels close to the center of the Earth, as if one is navigating through its very veins One feels so many things. With each stroke of the paddle you learn to respect nature and to love it even more. On such trips one is absolutely reliant upon nature and the solidarity of teammates, upon whom the pride and satisfaction that come with the success of every expedition depend. Not everyone has the chance to paddle a river. Not

navega por un ro, no cualquiera se atreve a intentarlo en las profundidades del can del Colca, el ms profundo y el ms can. Eso se los puedo asegurar. Es un escenario fabuloso. El ro, las montaas, los picos y paredes que se proyectan a ms de tres mil metros sobre nuestras cabezas. Eso es correr el Colca y adentrarse en su can. Una gran travesa que disfrut con intensidad y que jams olvidar.

everyone would dare to try it in the depths of Colca Canyon, both the deepest and most exhilarating canyon anywhere on the planet, of that I can assure you all. It is a fabulous setting: the river, the mountains, the peaks and rock walls rising more than three thousand meters above our heads. That is what it means to run the Colca River and venture into its canyon. It is a great adventure that I enjoyed intensely and which I will never forget.

La ducha del Cndor. / The Condors Shower.

Tena que seguir remando, sabiendo y sintiendo que era o ramos de las pocas personas que tenan el privilegio de surcar este torrente, flotando y luchando con nuestros kayaks y balsas, en un sitio en el que un amante de la geologa llegara al xtasis en cada pestaear de sus ojos. Estbamos aislados, en un lugar que nos obliga a desconectarnos de nuestra vida diaria, pero nos lleva a una perfecta armona con la naturaleza. Ah, en el ro, sintiendo sus embates y vaivenes, uno empieza a conocer a la naturaleza, a comprenderla y encontrarla. En las I would have to keep paddling, aware all the time that we were among a select group of individuals who have enjoyed the privilege of navigating this river, floating and often struggling along in our kayaks and rafts, in a place where geology buffs would delight at every sight that met their eyes. We were completely isolated, in a land that forced us to disconnect ourselves from our daily lives, but which at the same time allowed us to exist for a time in perfect harmony with nature. There, on the river, feeling it batter our boats and pull us along, one begins to understand nature and uncover its true essence. In

Portaje en Can de los Polacos Portaging in the Polish Canyon.

Foto/Photo: James Posso

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La mejor seccin para navegar en este cauce se inicia en Canco y termina en Majes. Este tramo fue recorrido por la expedicin polaca Canoandes en 1981. Luego de ella, varios grupos siguieron su ejemplo, incluso varios deportistas peruanos. Lamentablemente, en alguna ocasin hubo prdidas de vida. Estbamos advertidos. Nuestro reto era complejo. No es fcil atravesar la parte ms profunda del can. Conocida a nivel mundial como can Lunar (fue as como lo bautizaron los primeros expedicionarios), este tramo tiene una extensin de 60 kilmetros. El ro presenta grado 3, 4, 4+ y, ocasionalmente, 5. La seccin se recorre en un tiempo de entre 3 a 8 das, solo en kayak. Esto depende de la experiencia de los navegantes, el tamao y la fuerza del grupo, o la existencia de algn bote ms. The best section for paddling this river begins at Canco and ends in Majes. This section was run by the Polish expedition Canoandes in 1981. Subsequently, several groups followed their example, including a number of Peruvian enthusiasts. Regrettably, lives have been lost on occasion. We had been warned. Ours was a complex challenge. It is not easy to negotiate the deepest part of the canyon. Known throughout the world as the Lunar canyon (the name it was given by the first expedition), this section runs for a total of 60 kilometers. Here the river offers grade 3, 4, 4+ and, occasionally, grade 5 rapids. The section can be covered in between 3 and 8 days and can only be done by kayak. But that depends entirely on factors such as the experience of the team, the size of the group and the physical fitness of its members. The adventure began in the district of Huambo (Caylloma) at an altitude of 3,270 meters and two hours from Cruz del Condor. From this point we descended 1,870 meters on foot, using mules, donkeys and horses to carry our gear. This trail is 12 kilometers long and takes around 8 hours to complete. In Canco, on the river bank at an altitude of 1,400 meters, we unloaded and prepared ourselves for the start of our river adventure. The first part was easy. It was as if the river was giving us a chance to get warmed up. We were astonished by the scenery and taken aback by the fact that we were finally entering the canyon. After three kilometers, we reached the confluence with the Mamacocha River, which flows into the right bank of the Colca. Its waters come from a lake in Ayo, also known by the name Mamacocha. Seventeen kilometers higher

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Foto/Photo: James Posso

La aventura empieza en el distrito de Huambo (Caylloma), a 3.270 m.s.n.m. y a dos horas de la Cruz del Cndor. Desde este punto descendemos 1.870 metros a pie, con nuestra carga en burros, mulas o caballos. La distancia es de 12 kilmetros, los cuales se recorren en aproximadamente 8 horas. En Canco, una orilla fluvial a 1.400 m.s.n.m., descargamos y nos preparamos para el inicio de la aventura. La primera parte es tranquila. Es como si el cauce nos diera la oportunidad de ir calentando. En todo momento nos sorprende el paisaje y nos aguijonea la idea de que ya vamos entrando. Despus de tres kilmetros, llegamos a la confluencia del ro Mamacocha. Este entra por la ladera derecha. Sus aguas provienen de una laguna en Ayo que toma el mismo nombre. Su torrente que aqu vemos con claridad

Foto/Photo: James Posso

En el fondo del Colca, por las venas de la tierra The base of the canyon, through the veins of the Earth.

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discurre por debajo de la tierra 17 kilmetros ms arriba. Desde este punto la navegacin se torna ms interesante. El volumen del cauce aumenta al doble. Seguimos ro abajo y nos acercamos a la primera seccin de rpido, entre ellos el rpido de la Pared. Decidimos parar. Estbamos cansados por la caminata hacia Canco. As que era un buen momento para dejar de remar y buscar el sueo nocturno. El recorrido lo completamos en tres das. Nuestra expedicin constaba de un bote con tres tripulantes (Hugo, Ramiro, Coque) y un capitn (Chava) y dos kayakistas, Daniel y el autor de este relato. Para algunos de ellos era su primera vez, otros ya habamos venido antes, pero la sorpresa y admiracin era la misma al correr varios rpidos y secciones increbles con nombres propios que recuerdan las primeras expediciones. Pasamos por la Pared, Jazmn, Canoandes, la Ducha del Cndor (donde tenemos la suerte de ver a esa ave mitolgica cruzar ese chorro de agua), el up, its waters flow beneath the earth. This is where things started to get more interesting. The volume of water is doubled here. We continued downriver towards the first section of rapids, known as La Pared, which flow between sheer walls. We decided to stop, tired from the hike we had made from Canco. This was a good spot to stop paddling and get a good nights sleep. We completed the trip in three days. Our expedition was composed of a boat with three crew members (Hugo, Ramiro, Coque) and a captain (Chava) and two kayakers, Daniel and the author of this piece. For some of them it was their first time, while some of us had done it before. But we were all equally taken aback and exhilarated as we ran a number of sections of incredible rapids, all with names that commemorated the first expeditions. We padded through La Pared, Jazmn, Canoandes, La Ducha del Cndor (where we were lucky enough to spot that magnificent bird soaring above the racing waters), and the El Cholo rapids, named in honor of To lvaro, the Arequiparpido del Cholo, bautizado as en honor al To lvaro, canosta arequipeo que pag con su vida su aventura en el ro, pero que nos leg el cario por esta aficin que es un sentimiento y una forma de vida. Tambin pasamos el can de Chocolate, creo que por los colores y formas de esta seccin, llamaran a la ruta Can Lunar; Reparaz, un lugar de portaje obligado y que con ms volumen se convierte en una trampa mortal; can Verde y, finalmente, el can de los Polacos, un portaje obligado para los botes y un case 5 para los expertos kayakistas. Detrs est la ansiada salida del can; entonces el ro se abre, se hace ancho, deja de ser profundo. Reto cumplido. Recuerdos imborrables. Las noches de campamento avistando un cielo lmpido que se abre a la Va Lctea, las fogatas y comidas compartidas con amenas conversaciones, en la que no escasean las bromas, los chistes y las buenas vibras para que la expedicin sea un xito. As lo fue. Volveremos. born canoeist who paid for his river adventure with his life but passed on to us all his love of the sport, which for him was a way of life. We also paddled through Chocolate Canyon. I imagine it was because of the colors and shapes of this sections geology that the route was baptized Lunar Canyon. And then there was Reparaz, a place where all those running the river must portage around the rapids, the volume of which makes them a deadly trap; Verde Canyon, and finally Polacos Canyon, with its grade 5 rapids for expert kayakers making it an obligatory portage point for rafters. It is beyond these rapids that the river finally emerges from its canyon, becoming wider and much shallower. We completed our challenge and we were left with indelible memories: nights spent camping beneath a limpid sky and the Milky Way; campfires and food shared over good conversation filled with jokes, laughter and the camaraderie that ensured the success of the expedition. That was our experience. Well be going back.

Hotel mil estrellas... Thousand stars hotel...

ltima noche... entre Colca y Majes The last night between Colca and Majes

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Un Rosario de Templos
Fotos/Photos: James Posso

Tisco

A rosary of churches

Coporaqu

Chivay

Lari

Maca

Durante el predominio hispano se construyeron ms de veinte iglesias, principalmente a finales del siglo XVII e inicios del XVIII. Este vasto legado arquitectnico, artstico y religioso es uno de los mayores atractivos del valle. Los templos colqueos son testimonios de piedra y sillar.

Callalli

Cabanac

onde
During the Spanish colonial period more than twenty churches were built, mostly during the 17th century and the early 18th century. This vast architectural, artistic and religious legacy is one of the greatest attractions in the valley. The churches of Colca stand as a testimony in stone to the period in which they were built.

Ichup

ampa

Yanque

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Uyo Uyo
Uyo Uyo fue el ncleo urbano de Yanque. Los Caollaguas fueron los constructores de esta ciudad prehispnica, con zonas urbanas, agrcolas y un cementerio que actualmente es restaurado para recuperar su grandeza. Uyo Uyo was the urban nucleus of Yanque. It was the Collaguas who built this pre-Hispanic city, creating urban zones, agricultural sectors and a cemetery which has now been restored to its former grandeur.

Herencia de piedra
Legacy of stone
Fotos/Photos: James Posso

Yuraq Qaqa
Las tumbas de Yuraq Qaqa permiten observar su ubicacin en plena pared de piedra. Un camino que nace en Coporaque conduce a este cementerio prehispnico, que sera de origen incaico. The tombs of Yuraq Qaqa can be seen in their spectacular location in a rock wall. A trail leads from Coporaque to this preHispanic cemetery of Inca origin.

Pumunuta
En Pumunuta (4.055 m. s. n. m.) aparecen las cuevas, las colcas, los almacenes de alimentos creados por los Collaguas, en el actual distrito de Tuti (a 3.800 m. s. n. m. y a 20 kilmetros de Chivay). En este cerro existen cinco oquedades con diferentes niveles.

At Pumunuta (4,055 meters above sea level) there are caves, colcas (the food stores created for their harvests by the Collaguas), in the present-day district of Tuti (at an altitude of 3,800 meters and 20 kilometers from Chivay). On this hill there exist five hollows set at different levels.

Uyo Uyo Uskallacta Yuraq Qaqa

Pumunuta

En esta zona se erige una chullpa y una gran cantidad de recintos de piedra, que tienen una coloracin rojiza. Pertenece al distrito de Chivay y es una de las ms grandes del Valle del Colca.

Uskallacta Chimpa

Here there stands a chullpa and a large number of stone buildings of a reddish hue. The site is located in the district of Chivay and is one of the largest in the Colca Valley.

Impresionante fortaleza de Chimpa en el distrito de Madrigal (a 3.500 m. s. n. m. y a 30 kilmetros de Chivay). Recientemente restaurada, esta fortaleza es una evidencia clara de la destreza arquitectnica de los Collaguas. Desde aqu el can se ve espectacular. Hay formaciones rocosas de columnas baslticas por toda la ruta; retroceden en el tiempo geolgico de la Tierra.

The impressive fortress of Chimpa in the district of Madrigal (at an altitude of 3,500 meters and 30 kilometers from Chivay) has been recently restored. This fortress displays clear evidence of the architectural skill of the Collaguas. From here, the views of the canyon are spectacular. There are rock formations formed from columns of basalt throughout the route, recalling the Earths geological history.

Chimpa

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Fotos/Photos: James Posso

El vuelo del condor

The ight of the condor

El mirador anhelado. El lugar al que todos quieren llegar. La diaria concentracin cosmopolita en un atalaya natural que permite verlo todo: el can, el cauce cercado, los rspidos taludes, las cumbres de nieve y hasta un puado de casas sembradas al borde del abismo. El cndor vuela, planea, se exhibe. Lo admiras. Es glorioso. El ave carroera ms grande del mundo est sobre ti y puedes ver sus alas inmensas y su collar blanco, sintiendo el viento del can o del cndor.

This is the long-awaited viewing point, the place everyone wants to come to. The daily cosmopolitan concentration of travelers gathers at this natural watchtower to see the canyon, the river far below, the rock walls, snow-capped peaks and a scattering of tiny houses on the edge of the abyss. And then the condor takes ight. You admire it. It is glorious. The worlds largest carrion-eating bird soars above you, and you can see its immense wings and white collar, as the air rushing up from the canyon lifts it, ever upward.

Editorial
Cel. 99844 3117 Ojo Prdigo

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Relatos de caf
Coffee Tales

Texto y Fotos /Text and Photos: Juan Puelles Urraca

Verde infinito el de las colinas de Jan, propicias para el cultivo de un excelente caf. Infinite green of the hills of Jan, perfect for the growing of excellent coffee.

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Mi primera vez en J a n

My first time in Jan

Antes de darme el gusto, debo precisar que, segn las estadsticas fras y montonas, a diferencia de un buen caf, en Jan y San Ignacio existen unas 85 mil hectreas de este cultivo, las cuales producen un milln 275 mil quintales anualmente, lo que posiciona a Cajamarca como una de las principales productoras a nivel nacional. Jan, por su estratgica ubicacin y accesibilidad, se ha convertido en el eje comercial de la zona. A esta provincia se llega por una carretera completamente asfaltada que la une con Chiclayo, la capital de Lambayeque. El viaje dura unas seis horas. Es tal su impor tancia comercial que aqu se acopian las cosechas cafetaleras de Cajamarca y Amazonas. Los productores de ambas regiones se han a s o c i a d o e n v a r i a s cooperativas, entre las que destacan la

But before I describe in detail my own experience, I should mention that according to statistics cold and monotonous, so unlike a good coffee- in Jan and San Ignacio more than 85 thousand hectares of land are devoted to coffee production, yielding around 127,500 metric tons a year, making Cajamarca one of the nations leading coffee growing regions. With its strategic, easily accessible location, Jan has become the commercial hub of the area. The province is reached via an asphalted road from Chiclayo, the capital of the department of Lambayeque, a journey time of six hours. Its importance as a business hub is such that the coffee production of the departments of both Cajamarca and Amazonas passes through it. The producers of both regions have formed a number of cooperatives, including

Central Fronteriza del Norte de Cafetaleros (Cenfrocaf), la Asociacin Provincial de Cafetaleros Solidarios de San Ignacio (Aprocassi), la Unin de Cafetaleros Ecolgicos (Unicafec), la Cooperativa Prosperidad de Chirinos, la Cooperativa Sol y Caf, y la Cooperativa del Valle del Alto (Coopvama). Las cooperativas agrupan a unos cinco mil socios de las provincias de Jan, San Ignacio y Utcubamba, esta ltima en Amazonas, en cuyas parcelas, localizadas entre los 800 y 2.000 m.s.n.m., se producen los llamados cafs especiales, que destacan por su intensidad y complejidad de sabor.

Centrocaf [Central Fronteriza del Norte de Cafetaleros], Aprocassi [Asociacin Provincial de Cafetaleros Solidarios de San Ignacio], Unicafec [Unin de Cafetaleros Ecolgicos], Cooperativa Prosperidad de Chirinos, Cooperativa Sol y Caf, and Coopvama [Cooperativa del Valle del Alto]. These cooperatives bring together some five thousand growers from the provinces of Jan and San Ignacio, as well as Utcubamba, located in the Amazonas region, who at altitudes of between 800 and 1200 meters produce so-called special coffees, remarkable for their intensity and complex flavors.

Cajamarca tiene aroma de caf en sus pueblos amaznicos. All, entre el verdor y el cauce poderoso del ro Maran, los agricultores siembran un mejor futuro.

The aroma of coffee hangs over the Amazonian communities of Cajamarca, where in a verdant landscape nourished by the Maran River farmers are sowing the seeds for a better future.

s mi primera vez. S, mi primera vez..., pero no la primera vez que algunos de ustedes podran estar pensando. Aclaro el tema: es mi primera vez en estas tierras norteas, en este clido rincn de la Amazona peruana. Es curioso, pero siempre que he estado en la selva esta me ha sugerido un encanto seductor. La Amazona es ya una vieja conocida. Me gusta volver para regocijar mi vista con los regalos que ella me brinda. Me gusta volver a su lujuria verde, a ese encanto seductor que les coment al principio y, claro, tambin me tienta su variada y extica gastronoma. S, he vuelto al bosque. Estoy en Jan y en San Ignacio, dos rincones amaznicos de Cajamarca. Ambas provincias son las ms grandes de la regin y se encuentran al norte de la capital departamental. Su

El majestuoso Maran circunda Jan, regalndole vida, belleza y frtiles tierras. The majestic Maran River flows through Jan, bringing life, natural beauty and fertile lands.

It is my first time. Yes, my first time But not my first time in the way some of you might be thinking. No: it is my first time in these northern territories, in this hot corner of the Peruvian Amazon. It is strange, but whenever I have been in the jungle it has exerted a charming power over me. I have traveled often in the Amazon region. I enjoy going back in order to delight in the sights it regales me with. I enjoy returning to that luxuriant vegetation, to that charming power I have already alluded to. And, of course, I am always tempted back by its varied and exotic gastronomic traditions. Yes, I have returned to the jungle. I am visiting Jan and San Ignacio, two corners of Cajamarcas Amazon. These two provinces are the regions largest and they are located north of the regional capital.

vasto territorio comprende el ecosistema de selva alta o rupa rupa, lo que las posiciona como tierras ideales para la produccin de caf, pero no solo a nivel local o nacional. Y es que el caf de estas zonas es uno de los ms perfectos del mundo. Por esa razn se comercializa con xito en el exterior. Segn expertos catadores, los granos de la selva cajamarquina son tan buenos como los producidos en Colombia, pas de larga tradicin cafetalera y que es uno de los principales importadores del caf de esta regin. Con esos antecedentes es de ley probarlo, ms an cuando me considero una especie de cafeinmano... Existir esa palabrita? En verdad no lo s, pero como soy un vicioso y a la vez un devoto del caf, no se me ocurre mejor terminologa para llamar a esa debilidad ma.

Their vast territories are composed of highland jungle, or rupa rupa, making them ideal for a coffee industry which is focused on more than the local and national market. The grains from this area rank among the worlds finest coffee, and that is why they are successfully marketed overseas. According to experts, the coffee from the forests of Cajamarca is at least as good as that produced in Colombia, that country with a deeply-rooted coffeegrowing tradition which is now one of the leading importers of coffee from this part of Peru. Given such a distinguished pedigree and the fact that I am an inveterate coffee drinker, there is no way I can pass up the chance to savor the local brew. I have a weakness for coffee that makes me a devotee, an addict, if you like.
Venga, vea y participe de la cadena productiva de este maravilloso grano. Aprenda y saboree. Come, see and participate in the production process of this marvelous grain. Learn and savor.

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Jaen - Cajamarca

Per

Calidez y belleza cajamarquina en plena cosecha de los rojos granos de un buen caf para el deleite de todos. Welcoming and beautiful, here Cajamarca harvests the red beans of a fine coffee destined to be enjoyed by many.

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En la ruta del caf

como las buenas prcticas se deben de repetir, las autoridades, agricultores y diversas instituciones como Jan Emprende, que agrupa a empresas y empresarios vienen apoyando la implementacin de la Ruta del Caf, para que el turismo contribuya al desarrollo de su actividad, replicando el xito que se viene consiguiendo en el centro del pas. El circuito recorre un grupo de parcelas cercanas a la ciudad. Durante la travesa, el viajero podr palpar in situ, al igual que este servidor, todo el proceso del cultivo y la cosecha del caf, adems de conocer las diversas variedades del tipo arbica que se producen en estos campos, las cuales se han adaptado perfectamente al clima trrido de la zona. La ruta termina con una impresionante vista panormica del valle de Jan y el serpenteante discurrir del majestuoso ro Maran. Ya en la ciudad, se visita una planta procesadora para ver la seleccin y el catado del grano, su tostado y empaquetado. Finalmente, se degusta una humeante taza del mejor caf. Simplemente delicioso. Se los digo yo, un cafeinmano total. Nuestra visita a las parcelas y a la planta procesadora result muy interesante.

The Coffee Route

And because they understand that best practices must be disseminated, local authorities, growers and a number of institutions such as Jan Emprende, which brings together several companies and entrepreneurs, have been working to support the implementation of a Coffee Route, so that tourism can contribute to the development of this local industry by replicating the success of a similar initiative in central Peru. The circuit passes through a group of smallholdings not far from the city. During the tour, travelers can experience at first hand, as I did, the entire coffee growing and harvesting process, as well as learning about the many Arabica varieties produced in this territory, which are perfectly adapted to the torrid local climate. The route ends with an impressive panoramic view of the Jan valley and the majestic meanders of the Maran River. And in the city visitors can tour a processing plant and see how the grains are selected, roasted and packed before enjoying a steaming cup of the finest coffee. Simply delicious. And that is the opinion of a self-confessed coffee addict. Our visit to the smallholdings and processing plant was fascinating, and I learned a lot.

Los especialistas lo afirman: el caf cajamarquino es de una calidad especial, fuerte, con cuerpo y de una acidez nica. Experts agree that Cajamarca coffee is of the highest quality: flavorful, full-bodied and singularly bitter.

Aprend, claro que s. Solo un detalle: se deben mejorar los accesos. Hay que laborar duro en ese aspecto. Los caminos carecen de mantenimiento a pesar de estar cerca de la ciudad. Las autoridades tienen que tomar cartas en el asunto. Es cuestin de decisin. Si se mejoran las vas, le auguramos un gran xito a esta ruta.

I have one minor complaint, however: they need to improve access. Real work is needed in this regard. Local roads are poorly maintained, even those close to the city, and the authorities ought to do something about it. All that is lacking is the political will. With improved roads, the success of this initiative would be guaranteed.

Mientras eso ocurre, les alcanzo unos datos. Apunten: tomar entre dos y cuatro tazas de caf al da es una gran fuente de salud. Al hacerlo ingerimos antioxidantes, lo que ayuda a la proteccin celular. Adems, protege el corazn, el hgado, alivia los dolores de cabeza, ayuda contra el asma y es un excelente aliado en el desempeo fsico, amn de otros beneficios.

Meanwhile, I can provide readers with the following information. Take note: drinking between two and four cups of coffee a day is extremely good for ones health. Coffee is an excellent source of antioxidants, which prevent cell damage, as well as protecting the heart and liver, relieving headaches, helping to control asthma and providing us with a welcome boost as we go about our daily activities.

As que destierre los mitos. Haga esta ruta. Visite Jan y San Ignacio y beba caf cajamarquino, uno de los mejores del Per y del mundo. Dese el gusto y simplemente disfrtelo. Salud!

So bury all the myths about coffee and take this trip. Visit Jan and San Ignacio and drink Cajamarca coffee, one of the best in Peru and arguably the world. Give yourselves over to a simple pleasure.

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CMO LLEGAR A JAN: Desde Lima hasta Chiclayo por va area (una hora aproximadamente) o terrestre (13 a 14 horas). De Chiclayo en bus hasta Jan (seis horas, aproximadamente). POCA DE VISITA: Se puede visitar en cualquier poca del ao. Lluvias entre octubre y marzo; seco entre abril y setiembre. ATENER EN CUENTA: Jan es una zona tropical, hace mucho calor. Lleve ropa ligera y tenga a la mano un buen bloqueador solar. INFORMACIN TURSTICA: Para mayor informacin comunquese con Miguel Crdova de Maran Explorer, a los telfonos: 976146487 / 942619878.

HOW TO GET TO JAN: It is a one-hour flight from Lima to Chiclayo or a 13 to 14 hour journey overland. From Chiclayo it is a six-hour bus journey to Jan. BEST TIME TO VISIT: The area can be visited throughout the year. The rainy season runs from October and March, the dry season from April to September. BEAR IN MIND: Jan is a tropical region, and it is hot. Take light clothing and always have your sun block handy. TOURIST INFORMATION: For more information, contact Miguel Crdova, from Maran Explorer, by calling 976-146-487 or 942-619-878.

El tostado hace que este exquisito grano desprenda los ms especiales y deliciosos aromas, ponindolo a punto para saborearlo. The roasting of this exquisite coffee releases its delicious aromas, a prelude to the pleasure of savoring the final product.

De Jan para todo el mundo. Jan es el eje comercial desde donde el caf cajamarquino y amazonense se reparten al mercado nacional y mundial. From Jan for the rest of the world: Jan is the commercial hub from which Cajamarca and Amazonian coffee is distributed to the national and international market.

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De lneas y petroglifos
Lines and petroglyphs
Texto y Fotos /Text and Photos: Luis Yupanqui

Per

Palpa - Ica

Las lneas de Llipata, con figuras sobre las lomas de los cerros, se puede observar desde un mirador de 17 metros de alto y a un paso de la Panamericana Sur.

The lines of Llipata, figures on the slopes of hills, can be observed from a 17-meter viewing platform next to the Pan-American Highway.

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Losmisterios ancestrales de Palpa

Para muchos es solo un lugar de paso, pero quienes se detienen en esta provincia iquea se llevan ms de una sorpresa. Lo invitamos a descubrir los trazos milenarios de Palpa.
Elizabeth me toma del brazo, me jala, gira alrededor mo. Ella se re, se escapa, se pone nerviosa. Pide mi ayuda. Un gallo blanco la persigue. Lo vi salir de la sala, pero no le hice caso. l tampoco me hizo caso. La cosa no es conmigo. Es con ella, solo con ella. A ese gallo le encantan las seoritas, lo confirma don Omer. Le habr enseado su dueo, pues, remata con picarda don Juan. Todos nos remos. Incluso Elizabeth, que sigue escabullndose del gallo acosador.

planta en cada temporada. Eso lo sabe Omer. Eso lo saben todos en Palpa, la menos conocida de las cinco provincias de la regin Ica y, curiosamente, la nica que no tiene playas. Visitar Palpa no es complicado. El bus nos llev desde Lima hasta Ica en cuatro horas, y de ah hicimos conexin para llegar a nuestro destino (98 kilmetros, una hora y 15 minutos,aproximadamente). Ya instalados, nos encontramos con Juan Arce Garibay, gran conocedor y promotor de su ciudad, adems de excelente gua turstico, quien se puso a nuestra disposicin de inmediato. Don Juan tiene una mirada serena y un hablar pausado. Est feliz de que visitemos su pueblo y se ve muy interesado en nuestra labor. Le contamos que andamos buscando destinos nuevos, que todos conocen las lneas de Nasca, pero muy

every season is no small feat. Omer knows this. Everybody knows this in Palpa, the least well-known of the five provinces of the Ica region, and the only one with no beaches. It is not difficult to visit Palpa. It is four hours by bus from Lima to Ica, from where there are connecting services to Palpa (98 kilometers, around an hour and fifteen minutes). Shortly after we arrived, we met with Juan Arce Garibay, an enthusiastic authority on the city and an excellent guide, who offered his services immediately. Juan has a calm gaze and he speaks slowly. He was pleased that we had chosen to visit his home town and very interested in our work. We told him we were searching for new travel destinations. Everyone had heard of the Nasca Lines, but very few knew of the geoglyphs of Palpa, and that was why we were there.

The ancestral mysteries of Palpa

For many it is only a passing, but who are stopped in this province Ica takes more of a surprise. We invite you to discover the ancient Palpa lines.
Elizabeth took me by the arm, pulled me towards her and began to spin around me. She laughed nervously and pulled away. She called out for help. A white rooster was chasing her. I saw it emerge from the room and watched as it concentrated on its objective. It was after her, and it ignored me completely. That rooster loves girls, said Omer. Its owner must have trained it, he added rakishly. We all laughed, even Elizabeth, who was still struggling to evade the roosters attentions. El reloj solar de Palpa se encuentra a escasos cinco minutos de la ciudad. The Palpa sundial is located just five minutes from town. Don Omer Gutirrez Lpez es iqueo, pero vive en Palpa hace 38 aos. Dueo del fundo San Genaro, siembra mangos y ciruelos, porque estas frutas no necesitan tanta agua, recurso que no abunda en la zona. Los tres ros que surcan estas tierras tienen cauces fantasmas, rara vez aparecen, casi siempre estn secos. Pero la cantidad de hectreas sembradas en San Genaro y la produccin de cada uno de sus rboles Don Omer Gutirrez Lpez is a native of Ica, but he has lived in Palpa for 38 years. He owns the San Genaro estate, where he grows mangos and plums because they dont need much water, which is scarce. The three watercourses that flow through these lands are ghost rivers; they rarely appear and their beds are almost always dry. But the many hectares cultivated at San Genaro and the yields from every de mangos parecen desmentir o contradecir la falta de agua. No es poca cosa cosechar 100 kilos por one of its mango trees remain unaffected by the areas lack of water. A crop of 100 kilos from each plant

La Ciudad Perdida de Huayuri es un enigma para los arquelogos por su ubicacin y por lo desolado del lugar. The Lost City of Huayuri is an enigma for archaeologists puzzled by its location at such a desolate spot.

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La primera diferencia que debi notar la astrloga alemana es que las milenarias figuras palpeas, a diferencia de las conocidsimas lneas de la provincia vecina, pueden verse sin realizar un sobrevuelo. Aqu se disfruta de los geoglifos pisando tierra, desde las laderas cercanas o desde el mirador en el que ahora estamos (el ingreso cuesta dos soles). En el mirador hay una caseta de informacin a la que le falta precisamente eso, informacin, pero encontrars a John Soto, joven guardin y artesano que desde hace un ao viene tallando las lneas de Palpa en las piedras que encuentra en el desierto. Ahora, nos dirigimos a los petroglifos de Chichictara (lluvia de arena en quechua). Volvemos al pueblo para tomar otra rutan. En 20 minutos estamos en el kilmetro 7,5 ,uno de los tres ingresos a Chichictara. El primer petroglifo es el llamado Las

The first difference the German researcher would have noted between the ancient figures of Palpa and the world-renowned lines in the neighboring province is the fact that they can be appreciated without taking to the air. Here the geoglyphs can be appreciated from ground level, from nearby hillsides or from the viewing point we visited that day (entrance to which costs around US$0.75). There is an information center at the viewing point sadly lacking in information, but you will find John Soto there, the young ranger and craftsman who for more than a year has been carving copies of the Palpa lines on stones he picks up in the desert. From there we headed for the petroglyphs of Chichictara (rain of sand in Quechua). We passed through the town again, and in twenty minutes were at Kilometer 7.5 of the highway, at one of the three entrances to Chichictara. The first petroglyph is known as The

Atardecer en la Plaza de Armas de Palpa. Sunset in Palpas main square.

pocos saben de los geoglifos de Palpa y que ese era el motivo de nuestra visita. Alquilamos una movilidad por todo el da. Nuestro anfitrin se emociona, sus ojos brillan, acaso imaginando los rostros de sorpresa y descubrimiento de los que leern este texto, apreciarn nuestras fotos y visitarn estas tierras. Por qu los turistas no visitan Palpa?, se pregunta. Por qu todos van de frente a Nasca?, se entristece. En busca de respuestas nos encontramos con Abel Yez Gallegos, presidente encargado del comit de Gestin de Turismo de la provincia. En el camino al mirador de Llipata, nos comenta que han logrado We hired a vehicle for the day. Our host was excited, his eyes shining as he imagined the faces of those who would read this text and look at our photographs, before deciding to visit this area themselves. Why dont tourists visit Palpa? he asked, his expression becoming sad as he added: Why do they all head straight for Nasca? In search of answers, we met with Abel Yez Gallegos, the chairman of the provinces Tourism Management committee. En route to the Llipata viewing point, he told us that a campaign had raised awareness among locals of the zones tourism potential, and that Palpa had been sensibilizar a la poblacin para que reconozcan el potencial turstico de la zona y que se ha incluido a Palpa en un corredor que empieza aqu y termina en el Cusco. El mirador de Llipata est a solo 10 minutos del centro de Palpa. La primera figura fue descubierta en junio de 1941 por Paul Kosok y coincidi con el solsticio de invierno, por lo que se pens en una funcin astronmica. Otro investigador, Hans Horkheimer, recorri las pampas de San Ignacio y Llipata en 1946 y encontr la misma combinacin de lneas, figuras y trapecios. Mara Reiche tambin pas por aqu antes de instalarse en Nasca. included in a corridor that began there and ended in Cusco. The Llipata viewing point is just ten minutes from Palpa. The first designs were discovered in June 1941 by Paul Kosok and found to be associated with the winter solstice, leading observers to suppose they had served an astronomical function. Another researcher, Hans Horkheimer, studied the plains of San Ignacio and Llipata in 1946 and found a similar combination of lines, figures and trapezoids. Maria Reiche also passed through Palpa before settling in Nasca.

Nuestros antepasados supieron apreciar el algodn para sus vestimentas. En Palpa lo hicieron muy bien.

Our ancestors knew how to make cotton clothing, and in Palpa they were experts.

Iglesia de Palpa con el sunset del atardecer. Palpas church at sunset.

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brotes aparecieron en su tallos para demostrar que sigue en pie, lleno de fortaleza y vitalidad, como smbolo de vida y de resistencia en el desierto. Despus de admirar al venerable huarango, seguimos camino por una trocha carrozable de cuatro kilmetros. Esta nos conduce a la Ciudad Perdida de Huayuri, en pleno valle de Santa Cruz. Aqu nos recibe Vctor Garca Licas, guardin y artesano que reproduce los geoglifos y lneas en piedras que recoge en el desierto. Su experiencia como custodio de zonas arqueolgicas se remonta a 1998. En ese entonces trabajaba en Nasca con Mara Reiche.

new shoots appeared on its branches, demonstrating that it was still standing, filled with life and vitality, as a symbol of all the life that can be contained within a desert. After admiring that venerable tree, we continued along a track for another four kilometers as far as the lost city of Huayuri, in the heart of the Santa Cruz valley. There we were met by Vctor Garca Licas, a ranger and craftsman, who reproduces the geoglyphs and lines on stones he collects in the desert. His experience as a custodian of archaeological areas dates back to 1998, when he worked in Nasca with Maria Reiche. The lost city of Huayuri was a pre-Hispanic settlement from the Late Intermediate period (1100 1476 AD), located in a valley that runs at a right angle to the course of the Santa Cruz River. The Nasca people built this settlement among the hills, where they hoped to remain undetected by the forces of the Inca state, which under Pachacutec eventually located and destroyed the site. In the late afternoon the sky began to turn an intense red. In just one day we had visited a lost city, admired a petroglyph representing the stages of life, observed geoglyphs without having to climb aboard an aircraft, tasted freshly-harvested mangos and laughed at the exploits of an amorous rooster. We would dine that night on roast pork and fruit bathed in syrup, prepared by Mrs. Mara Paz. Yes, we did all that in a day. And Palpa would offer us much more the next day.

Palpa es conocida por sus frutos. El mango es uno de ellos. Palpa is known for its fruit, including mango.
CONTACTO: Juan Hiplito Arce Garibay (gua turstico) Garcilaso de la Vega 285 Palpa Fijo: (056) 404374 Celular: 956494956 Correo: jarcegaribay@hotmail.com juan.h.garibay9@facebook. com HOSPEDAJES: Palpa lines hotel (Progreso 225 Palpa) Habitacin simple: 30 soles Habitacin doble: 60 soles Habitacin matrimonial: 40 soles El Manantial (Posee solo 4 habitaciones triples) Precio: 50 Nuevos Soles por persona con desayuno incluido Los Cocos Prolongacin Grau, cerca al puente de Palpa Fijo: (056) 783322 / Celular: 956-398176 Precio: 65 soles por persona RESTAURANTES: Chanchito al Humo Panamericana Sur Km. 398 Dulces de ctricos Mara Paz (familia Gonzlez Herrera). Calle Lima 161, a dos cuadras de la Plaza de Armas. Fijo: 956215166 CONTACT: Juan Hiplito Arce Garibay (tour guide) Garcilaso de la Vega 285, Palpa Telephone: (056)404-374 / Mobile: 956-494-956 E-mails: jarcegaribay@hotmail.com / juan.h.garibay9@facebook.com ACCOMMODATION Palpa Lines Hotel (Progreso 225, Palpa) Single room: 30 Peruvian soles Twin room: 60 Peruvian soles Double room: 40 Peruvian soles El Manantial (just 4 triple rooms) Price: 50 Peruvian soles per person, with breakfast included Los Cocos Prolongacin Grau, near the Palpa bridge Telephone: (056)783-322 / Mobile: 956-398-176 Price: 65 Peruvian soles per person RESTAURANTS: Chanchito al Humo Southbound Pan-American Highway, Kilometer 398 Dulces de Ctricos: Mara Paz (Gonzlez Herrera family) Calle Lima 161, two blocks from the main square Telephone: 956-215-166

Nuestro redactor y fotgrafo Luis Yupanqui cuando se realiz el Dakar 2013. Our writer and photographer Luis Yupanqui took part in Dakar 2013.
etapas de la vida. Este muestra la imagen de un nio, un adulto y un anciano de tres piernas. Todo un enigma. Aqu se han contabilizado 1.200 dibujos labrados sobre rocas volcnicas y aluviales, diseminadas en un rea de tres kilmetros. En este museo al aire libre, localizado en los cerros de la margen derecha del ro Palpa, existen imgenes de guerreros, felinos, aves, Stages of Life and is composed of the likenesses of a child, adult and threelegged old man, making it quite an enigma. Here around 1200 drawings have been registered, carved into the volcanic and alluvial rock over an area of three square kilometers. In this open air museum, located on one of the hills on the right bank of the Palpa River, there are depictions of warriors, felines, birds, shrimps, twocamarones, serpientes bicfalas, monos, entre otros. Su antigedad supera los dos mil aos. Luego de cosechar mangos en el fundo San Genaro, nos detenemos en el kilmetro 384 de la Panamericana Sur para conocer el huarango milenario. Los huarangos son acacias silvestres similares a los algarrobos que tienen la capacidad de sobrevivir en los desiertos. Este coloso vegetal de formas caprichosas tendra 1.250 aos de antigedad. Su edad fue calculada en 1998, mediante el conteo de los anillos concntricos de su tallo y races, realizado por los especialistas del Instituto de Medicina Tradicional (Inmetra) de la Universidad Nacional Mayor de San Marcos. Los palpeos pensaban que su mtico huarango ya estaba seco, pero nuevos headed serpents, monkeys and other creatures. The site is more than two thousand years old. After estate, harvesting we some at

mangos at the San Genaro stopped Kilometer 384 of the PanAmerican Highway to view an ancient huarango tree, a type of acacia similar to the carob which is able to survive in this arid land. This gnarled, colossal tree is 1250 years old. Its age was calculated in 1998, when the rings of its trunk and roots were counted by experts from the Institute of Traditional Medicine (INMETRA) of the National University of San Marcos. The people of Palpa had thought that their ancient huarango was dead, but

La Ciudad Perdida de Huayuri es un asentamiento prehispnico del Intermedio Tardo (1100-1476 d. C.), localizado en una quebrada de orientacin oblicua al curso del ro Santa Cruz. Los nascas la construyeron entre cerros, con la esperanza de que el ejrcito inca no la divisara. Pero fue intil. Las huestes de Pachactec la ubicaron y destruyeron. Cae la tarde. El cielo se vuelve rojo intenso. Hoy descubrimos una ciudad perdida, admiramos un petroglifo que representa las etapas de la vida, observamos geoglifos sin necesidad de subirnos a una avioneta, disfrutamos de mangos recin cosechados y nos remos con los calores de un gallo enamorador. En la noche nos prometen una cena con chancho al cilindro y con frutas en almbar preparadas por la seora Mara Paz. Y todo esto ha ocurrido en un solo da. Palpa nos ofrecer mucho ms maana.

La poblacin de Palpa disfrut con el Dakar en 2012 y 2013. The residents of Palpa enjoyed the Dakar Rally in 2012 and 2013.

(51) PER

Asesora y soporte en transporte Distribucin de paquetera y carga nacional Mensajera local y nacional Servicio de aduanas Servicios de almacenaje Transporte de carga nacional o internacional Logstica inversa Empaques y Embalajes Servicio de compras internacionales Carga y Transporte Logstica, Servicios integrales

Av. Sucre N 521 Magdalena del Mar Telfono 653-1790 E Mail: info@perucargoxp.com

51 PERU Cargo Xp S.R.L.

Cargo Xp

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Apu Ausangate
Mount Ausangate
Texto y Fotos / Text and Photos: Sal Caipani

Quispicanchi - Cusco

Per

En un balcn del apu Ausangate el aventurero, Alfredo, Isabel, Csar y Simba contemplando y sintiendo su majestuosidad On one of Mount Ausangates ledges, the author, Alfredo, Isabel, Csar and Simba contemplate the majesty of the peak.

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Una puerta al cielo

Gateway to heaven
Un reto aventurero en una de las montaas tutelares del Cusco. Una historia de nieve y adrenalina en la que cada palabra lo ir conduciendo hacia las alturas de los Andes. De pronto, al escribir estas palabras, me doy cuenta de que el tiempo ha pasado con rapidez, pero las vivencias del viaje aventurero que pretendo contarles permanecen inalterables en mi mente y en mi corazn. Todo empezara en el Cusco, cuando con unos amigos andinistas conversbamos sobre las majestuosas cumbres que rodean el ombligo del mundo. As, entre bromas y risas, y como quien no quiere la cosa, prendi la idea de darse una vueltita por el Ausangate, uno de los principales apus (montaas sagradas) de la cosmovisin andina. A challenging adventure on one of Cuscos major peaks: a story of snow and adrenaline, carrying the reader into the heights of the Andes with every word. Suddenly, as I write these words, I am struck by how time has passed so quickly. But the experiences of the adventure I am about to recount remain fixed in my mind and in my heart. It all began in Cusco, when a group of climbing friends got together to talk about the majestic peaks that encircle the navel of the world. And so it was that, amid joking and laughter, one thing led to another and we hit upon the idea of making a trip to Mount Ausangate, one of the most important apus (sacred mountains) in Andean religious belief.

Primer campamento frente a frente y una joya turquesa de agua en medio. The first camp, opposite turquoise waters. Iramos a la montaa a investigar la ruta, recabar informacin til y, sobre todo, a pasarla bien, que es como se pasan los das al aire libre. Que no se hable ms. A casa a preparar la mochila y el equipo necesario. Ojal que las horas vuelen para estar lo ms pronto posible en el paradero a Tinke (al costado del Coliseo Cerrado, en la avenida De la Cultura). All me encontrara con los otros expedicionarios, tres hombres y dos mujeres. We would check out the route, gather useful information and, most important of all, have a good time as we spent a few days in the open air. The talking was over. It was time to go home and prepare a backpack with all the necessary equipment and look forward excitedly to finding ourselves standing at the Tinke bus stop (at the sports stadium on Avenida de la Cultura). Including me, the expedition team would be composed of four men and two women.

Despus de cuatro horas llegamos a Tinke (distrito de Ocongate, provincia de Quispicanchi), donde contratamos una movilidad hacia el centro poblado de Pacchanta (45 minutos en auto, tres o cuatro horas a pie). En este lugar le decimos adis a los vehculos motorizados. Es tiempo de caminar. Primer encuentro viajero: un muchacho que retorna y nos cuenta que la ruta comercial est en buen estado. Seguimos, acampamos, conversamos: y si ascendemos por la arista noreste? La posibilidad es tentadora. Esa ruta no haba sido recorrida en los ltimos 50 aos. Es ms, si logrbamos coronar nuestros esfuerzos, seramos la primera cordada completamente peruana en ascender por esa arista del apu. Decidimos intentarlo. Por qu no. El reto nos emocionaba y era un aliciente extra en nuestra aventura. Convencidos de que hacamos lo correcto, buscamos refugio en las carpas. Hay que dormir. El da nos recibe con un fro inclemente y congelador. La laguna es un adoqun que tenemos que romper para rescatar un poco de agua. Despus del desayuno, continuamos el acercamiento entre morrenas, cascajales y un rosario de espejos de agua de diferentes tonalidades, nacidas de la desglaciacin que cada ao es ms fuerte. Al llegar a la base de la montaa luego de varias horas de andar nos quedamos absortos. Es inmensa, poderosa e impone respeto. Superada la primera impresin, el grupo se divide. Isabel, Lixaida y Simba se quedan en la zona para armar el campamento, mientras que Csar, Alfredo y este aventurero vamos a investigar la ruta por la que ascenderemos.

After a four-hour journey we arrived in Tinke (in the district of Ocongate, the province of Quispicanchi), where we hired a vehicle to take us to the village of Pacchanta (a 45-minute drive, or four hours on foot). Here we said goodbye to all motorized transport. It was time to start walking. We passed a boy on his way back to the village who informed us that the usual route was in good condition. We continued on our way, made camp and talked: why not climb the northeast face? It was a tempting possibility. That route had not been climbed for around fifty years. And if we managed to reach the summit we would become the first entirely Peruvian team to make the ascent via that face of the apu. We decided to give it a try. Why not. We were excited by the challenge and it added spice to our adventure. Convinced we had made the right decision, we took to our tents for some much needed rest. The next morning we were met with harsh, bonechilling cold. We had to break the ice covering the lake to obtain our drinking water. After breakfast, we continued our approach among the moraines, loose rock and a series of small, different colored lakes formed by the accelerating process of melting We reached the base of the mountain after a hike of several hours. We stood there, entranced. It is an immense peak, overwhelmingly imposing. Having assimilated this first impression, the group divided. Isabel, Lixaida and Simba would remain behind to set up the camp, while Csar, Alfredo and I would set off to check out the route we were planning to climb.

Es cansado pero muy bien recompensado. En la imagen, Csar abre paso siempre arriba. The exhausting effort is worth it. Here, Csar leads the team upwards.

El apu relajndose con los ltimos rayos del sol y dejndonos ver sus heladas barbas. The icy slopes of the sacred mountain bathed in the suns last rays.

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El aventurero y Alfredo confundidos entre grietas y avalanchas que ms parecen dunas en un atardecer naranja. The author and Alfredo amid crevasses and snowfields resembling sand dunes in the orange sunset.

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Encontramos hielo podrido (se reconoce por su color oscuro y su textura) y pasamos una serie de seracs (bloques de hielo cados o con cierta inclinacin). Antes de volver, dejamos algunas cuerdas fijas. Nos seran tiles para el ataque a la montaa que realizaramos en la madrugada. S, se acercaba la hora de la verdad. Estbamos expectantes, alertas, deseosos de continuar con esa travesa que naci entre bromas y sonrisas. Salimos. Todo es hacia arriba. Superamos pequeas paredes, grietas y cadas de piedra. Cruzamos un delgado puente de nieve que nos condujo a unos enormes bloques de hielo roto. Sentimos miedo, pero no podamos dejarnos vencer y le hicimos la lucha. Fuimos para adelante y nos cost mucho avanzar. Igual lo conseguimos: arribamos a una zona plana de cuatro metros donde armaramos el campamento. Y en esos afanes andbamos cuando cremos o alucinamos que ya no estbamos en una montaa, sino en las orillas de una playa contemplando el crepsculo, porque el cielo y la nieve se pintaron de naranja. En esos instantes mgicos, descubrimos tambin la hidalga presencia del Salcantay otro apu memorable, baado por

We encountered unstable rotten ice (recognizable from its dark color and its texture) and passed a series of seracs (leaning or fallen blocks of ice). Before returning, we left a number of fixed ropes. They would help us on the assault we planned to make before first light. Yes, the moment of truth was drawing near. We were expectant, alert, keen to push on with an adventure that had begun amid joking and laughter. We set off up the mountain, negotiating some small walls, crevices and rock falls. We crossed a narrow ice bridge that led us to some enormous blocks of broken ice. We were anxious, but we couldnt give up now and so we struggled on. The going was tough now, but we made it; we reached a flat area of about four square meters, where we made our camp. We were each going about our individual tasks when it suddenly seemed as if we were no longer on a mountain, but rather on a beach somewhere contemplating the sunset, because the sky and snow were tinted with orange. During those magical moments we discovered the majestic presence of Salcantay another marvelous apusalso bathed by the suns last rays.

los ltimos rayos del sol. Despus del esplndido espectculo, llegaron las sombras de la noche. El fro nos castigaba. Se haca sentir a los 4.800 m.s.n.m. y para enfrentarlo derretamos y hervamos el hielo para calentarnos con un mate de coca y con una sopita que, a estas alturas, era ms que un lujo. Su reconfortante tibieza era lo que necesitbamos para descansar. Un nuevo da. Otras vistas privilegiadas. Las mismas mochilas sobre nuestros hombros. Ms pasos, muchos pasos que se dirigen a una hermosa pared en la que hacemos dos cordadas. Ascendemos casi 70 metros sin parar. Al llegar al filo de la pared, mi cansancio es recompensado con una vista fenomenal de la cordillera, con sus picos, sus cientos de lagunas y varios pueblos campesinos a los pies de aquellos colosos de hielo. La travesa contina y encontramos una pala de nieve con peligro de avalancha. Avanzamos con extrema precaucin y, al superarla, vemos una pared de roca de unos 35 metros. Alfredo toma la iniciativa y abre la ruta. Todos estamos inquietos porque no contamos con mucho equipo para ascensos en roca. Eso no nos detiene. Lo intentamos. Primero las mochilas. As el grupo subira liberado del peso que llevaba en sus espaldas. Terminamos molidos. El esfuerzo fue casi titnico. Sentamos como si tuviramos rota la espalda y nuestros pies estuvieran congelados. Pero era imposible hacer una tregua. La adrenalina nos desbordaba, pero desdebamos el dolor y ya andbamos buscando un lugar para acampar. Al final ubicamos un pedacito de nieve a los 5.900 m.s.n.m.

Following this spectacle, the first shadows of the night arrived. The cold was punishing. We were camped at 4,800 meters, and to combat the freezing temperatures we boiled ice to make coca leaf tea and a simple soup which we savored as if it were a delicacy. Its warmth was comforting. The new day offered us more spectacular scenery. Wearing our backpacks once more, we set off, step after step, heading for a beautiful wall in which we fixed two ropes. We climbed almost seventy meters nonstop. When I reached the top and rested I was rewarded with a phenomenal view of the entire range, with its many peaks, hundreds of lakes, and tiny villages located at the bases of colossal icy massifs. We continued our ascent and came to an area of loose snow where a sudden avalanche was a very real possibility. We advanced cautiously. Having passed this hazard we saw a 35-meter rock wall ahead. Alfredo took the lead and established the route. We were concerned; all of us knew we lacked adequate equipment for rock climbing. But that wasnt going to stop us. First we hauled the backpacks to the top, so we could climb free of their weight. We ended that climb exhausted. We had been forced to make a titanic effort and we felt as if our backs had been broken and our legs frozen. But it would be impossible to give up now. We were bursting with adrenaline, almost disdainful of the pain we felt and keen to find a good place to camp. Eventually we found a shelf of snow at 5,900 meters. We burrowed into the

El aventurero orgulloso con su bandera (Club de Andinismo Cusco). The proud author with his flag (Cusco Mountaineering Club).

Alfredo enfrentando y saliendo victorioso de un pozo congelado con un vaco profundo en los pies. Alfredo emerging victorious from a frozen shaft, with the void beneath his feet.

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Excavamos, armamos las carpas, intentamos descansar. Imposible. El viento amenazaba con llevrselo todo. Tuvimos que poner los piolets (picos pequeos para la nieve), las estacas y todo lo que pudiera servir para enfrentar exitosamente a los ventarrones que cada vez eran ms fuertes. Las varillas de las carpas se doblaban. Nos asustamos. No pudimos dormir. Quisimos continuar al amainar los vientos y volver la luz, pero la mala noche terminara por jugarnos una mala pasada. Estbamos agotados y, como si eso fuera poco, se aproximaba una tormenta elctrica. Decidimos retornar. Total, la montaa no se movera. Tarde o temprano, volveremos en busca de nuestra revancha. Pese a que no cumplimos con nuestro objetivo, vivimos una gran experiencia en el Ausangate. El apu nos puso a prueba. Fue exigente y tambin generoso, porque nos premi con su belleza y nos recarg con su energa. As, cansadamente orgullosos, emprendimos el camino de regreso al Cusco. Ya en la ciudad, nos dimos cuenta de la locura que habamos intentado; una locura que, de todas maneras, repetiremos. Ahora s, hasta la cumbre.

snow, set up our tents and tried to get some rest. The wind made sleep impossible, threatening to carry all our gear off the mountain. We secured everything with piolets and tent pegs and anything else that could stand up to the increasingly powerful gusting winds. The tent poles were being bent almost double and we were too nervous to sleep. At first light the winds dropped and we were keen to push on, but that difficult night had taken its toll and we were exhausted. And then suddenly we were hit by an electrical storm, and we knew we would have to turn back. We were comforted by the knowledge that the mountain wasnt going anywhere. Sooner or later, we would return for a rematch. Although we did not achieve our objective, our Ausangate experience was a magnificent one. The apu had tested us. While it had been demanding it had also been generous, blessing us with its beauty and filling us with its energy. Tired and proud, we set off back to Cusco. Back in the city, we understood just how crazy we had been to make the attempt. But we also knew we would try again, and that we would make it all the way to the summit.

El aventurero regresando de una experiencia que nunca en su vida podr olvidar. Se podrn borrar nuestras huellas, pero jams nuestras vivencias.

The author returning from an experience he will never forget. Our footsteps will be erased, our memories never.

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