RockTopos

Rock Climbing Guide Costa Blanca Sella - Wildside

A free climbing guide provided by RockTopos http://d.1asphost.com/costablancarock/ http://www.freewebs.com/costablancarock/ Published 2008 Revision 2

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INFORMATION
All rights reserved. Copyright RockTopos 2006-2008.

Sella - Wildside
English

Every effort has been made to make this publication as accurate as possible however the information provided is on an as-is basis. The descriptions of routes and the grades are recorded to assist the climber to attempt routes within their ability. Where the correct route name is not known a substitute is added in brackets (). The publication of this topo does not imply any right of access or right to climb on this cliff. The author does not recognise any liability for injury or damage caused to, or by, climbers, third parties or property arising from the use of the information provided in this publication. New information and updates to this guide are available at http://d.1asphost.com/costablancarock/ http://www.freewebs.com/costablancarock/ If you have any comments, additional routes or corrections please e-mail these to rocktopos@hotmail.com

INFORMACIN
Todos los derechos reservados. RockTopos 2006-2008 del copyright.

Espaol

Se ha hecho todo tipo de esfuerzo de hacer esta publicacin tan exacta como sea posible sin embargo la informacin proporcionada est sobre una base bsica. Las descripciones de rutas y de los grados estn registrados para ayudas al escalador ha realizar las rutas dependiendo de su habilidad. Donde el nombre correcto de la ruta no se sabe un substituto se agrega en parntesis (). La publicacin de este topo no implica el derecho al acceso o el derecho de subir en este acantilado. El autor no responsabiliza por ningn tipo de dais a lesin, u otro tipo de danos, en escaladores, teresas personas o levantamiento de propiedades por el uso de la informacin proporcionado en esta publicacin, Para mas informacin y actualizacin de esta gua puedes encontrarla en: http://d.1asphost.com/costablancarock/ http://www.freewebs.com/costablancarock/ Comentarios, rutas adicionales o correcciones: rocktopos@hotmail.com

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LOCATION

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SITUACIN

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RockTopos
English

Sella - Wildside

This publication is a rock climbing guide to the Wildside sector at Sella in the Costa Blanca region of Spain. Wildside is a large and impressive overhanging wall that is one of the steepest crags in the area with hard climbs up pockets, tufas and walls. To appreciate the sector you really need to be climbing 7b or above.

GENERAL APPROACH Travel south from Calpe/Benidorm or north from Alicante along the A7 motorway. Take junction 66 signposted Villajoyosa to Sella village. On reaching Sella, follow the road over the initial bridge and round to the right. At the left bend take the wide road to the right first down and then pass the impressive cemetery and continue along the valley to the end. Take the right fork and pass the Refugeo and the main climbing sectors. Keep going for 3km along the track until Wildside is visible above the road and behind the trees. Park carefully on the bend, or back up the road where its a bit wider. From the parking walk up the track to the first sharp bend. From here find a track through the woods which leads easily to a scramble to below the wall. ASPECT AND CLIMATE The wall is very steep and sheltered and will stay dry in all but the heaviest of rain although it may seep if it has been very wet for a few days. It is north facing and gets very little sunshine so consequently can be colder than other places. This does mean its a good choice in hot weather. GEAR All the routes are typically well protected by 10mm bolts and finish at good belays. Most belays now have lower offs in place to avoid threading the rope. Generally a 60m rope is sufficient, although a few

When to Climb
Spring Summer Autumn Winter Yes - if there was a few days of heavy rain the tufas are prone to seepage. Yes - in the shade but may be lacking in breeze so may be uncomfortably hot and sweaty. Yes - same as Spring Ok - may be cold.

Venue Aspect
Sun or Shade Wind Wet weather Seepage Very little sun Not very much, it is quite sheltered Yes - very steep so stays dry even in torrential rain. After prolonged rain the tufas will seep and it will take 3 or 4 dry days to be ok again.

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RockTopos

Richard Davies at the mid-height rest on La Hora de Millau, 7c.

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1. Black is Black........................................ 7b 25m. The furthest most left route starts by climbing the large twin tufas to their top (rest) and then move rightwards to gain a good hold and follow a line of flakes to the first lower-off. F.A. Ivan Hernandez, 1990s

2. Watermark ............................................. 8a+ 38m. Midway between Black is Black and Ya Somos, climb up a vague crack and thin tufas. To the first lower-off is an excellent 8a. F.A. Mark Edwards, 1991

3. ?? .......................................................... ? 22m. Climb very thin tufas up the wall to the right until forced right to the belay of Ya Somos Olmpicos. 4. Ya Somos Olmpicos ........................... 7b+ A superb route up overhanging tufas which can be led in one mega 40m pitch from the ground. 1) 22m. 7b+, Climb the tufas starting on the right. Direct is a little harder. 2) 22m. 7a+, Continue up the steep corner above. Copyright RockTopos 2008

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F.A. J M Garcia, 1990s

5. Propiedad Privada ................................ 7a+ 14m. Right of Ya Somos Olmpicos, a short route up the steep tufas with a hard move using a mono to gain the belay in the blank wall. F.A. S M Sanchez, 1990s

6. Propiedad Privada Continuidad .......... 8a 30m. Keep going straight up the wall above. An excellent pitch. 7. Nameless ............................................... 7b 20m. Follow the obvious line curving rightwards to join Keep the Faith at the mid-height belay. F.A. Mechas,Sulcina, 1990s 8. Keep the Faith ....................................... 7c 20m. Follows the overhanging ramp line with a crux on smooth rounded tufas and pockets. Either split at a mid-height lower-off or continue to the top at a soft 7b. F.A. D Lyon and C Greatwich

9. Cuestin de Estilo ................................ 7c 24m. The steep crack-line ands tufas to the right has a hard crux low down. Use your first two fingers in an upside down pocket to pass this and continue to a belay half-way up the crack. Low in the grade. F.A. J M Garcia, 1990s

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10. Dosis .................................................... 8b+ 24m. A very difficult line up the smooth overhanging wall using the left most smooth tufas that run down the orange rock. F.A. Ivan Hernandez, 1990s

11. Dosis direct ........................................ 8c 25m. The thinner tufa and (chipped) pockets just to the right of Dosis. F.A. 12. Pinoreta ............................................... 8c 24m. This takes the big tufa to the roof and then thin tufas and small pockets in the wall to gain the obvious hole higher up the wall. Continue more easily. F.A. Dani Andrada 4/10/2006

13. Espasiometria..................................... 8b 24m. A variant on Ergometria. Move left through the initial bulge to join that route. Move out left and again rejoin the route just before the belay. F.A.

14. Ergometra ........................................... 8a 26m. A classic 8a with steep pumpy moves up rounded pockets and tufas. Tackle a boulder-problem start to a hands off rest. Good holds lead up the steepening wall to a hard move left into the upper

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groove. Theres a hands off rest in the scoop which is recommended before taking the top bulge and final move to the belay. F.A. J M Garcia, 1990s

15. ?? ........................................................ 8b+ 20m. Start a few metres to the right and climb the initial wall trending slightly leftwards. Move almost into Ergometria before stepping back right and tackling a line of thin tufas up the steep wall above. 16. ?? ........................................................ 8b 20m. Start up Oceano to that routes belay and then take the wide roof directly above this via some very thin tufas. 17. Ocano ................................................ 7b 16m. Follow pockets and tufas up the wall go reach a poor rest in a break below an obvious tufa. Sprint up this and leftwards into the corner or as an easier alternative step right into a crack to the big hole before moving left to the belay under the roof. F.A. A Gomez 1990s

18. Ocano continuation .......................... 8a 25m. From the big hole pull up to the edge of the roof and continue up the headwall above.

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19. El ltimo Mono .................................... 8b 32m. A stunning line up some vague tufas, all the way to the top. F.A. Ivan Hernandez, 1990s 20. ?? ......................................................... 8b 32m. F.A. 21. Privatizacion ........................................ 8a+ 24m. F.A. 22. ?? ........................................................ 8a+ 24m. The pocketed lower wall has a hard move. Pull though the bulge to a further hard move next to the long sling. F.A.

23. Nido Amoroso (left) ............................. 7c+ 28m. Climb the pockets to below the bulgethe left-hand finish provides a 7c+ option. F.A. Ivan Hernandez, 1990s 24. Nido Amoroso (right) .......................... 7b+ 28m. At the bulge pull rightwards on excellent jugs until a difficult step up completes the line. Copyright RockTopos 2008

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F.A. Ivan Hernandez, 1990s

25. Nido Amoroso (in-direct) .................... ? 28m. Using the same start continue more direct up some tufas. Pull left through the bulge to join the normal route. A very recent addition. F.A.

26. La Criatura........................................... 8b 30m. An interesting (and big) pitch, despite 3 glued-on stones. The second bolt is very high. F.A. A Gomez, 1990s 27. Septiembre .......................................... 8b+ 28m. Climb the twin tufas to a roof then pull over this to finish. F.A. A Gomez, 1990s 28. Sweet Lady .......................................... 8a 28m. Start just right of a corner/ramp and climb up to the blank headwall. A strange start and a boulder problem finish. F.A. A Gomez, 1990s

29. Dimensin Diamante .......................... 8a+ 28m. Another excellent route. Climb past another long sling to a slot then continue, finishing up a left-

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facing groove near the top of the wall. F.A. A Gomez, 1990s

30. El Club de la Luncha ........................... 8b+ 25m. Take the line through the roof and up the blue tufa running up the centre of the bulging wall. F.A. 31. ?? ........................................................ 8a+ 25m. Climb to below the right side of a small roofgo right to past this and take the centre of the orange wall which has two hard crux moves. Finish over the roof. F.A.

32. El Gremio ............................................. 7c+ 28m. A good but imbalanced climb up the blue streak with a hard move at mid-height. The middle hard section can be bypassed by stepping onto the right wall at a slightly easier grade. F.A. L Birch, J M Garcia, 1990s

33. El Pito Del Sereno .............................. 7c+ 28m. An undercut and a pocket mark the bouldery start . This leads to a no-hands rest. Step right and pull up sloppy holds and step left. A couple of rockovers gain better holds. Theres a final hard move

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using sharp holds to reach the belay. F.A. Ivan Hernandez, 1990s

34. La Hora de Millau ................................ 7c 26m. Struggle up the inverted-V' tufa and move out left to a good rest. Steady climbing leads up sloping ledges rightwards to gain the left side of the large flake. Hardest at the start but sustained with a tricky upper move. Low in the grade. F.A. Francesses, 1990s

35. El Puto Lastre...................................... 7c+ 22m. Climb a shallow groove and move right onto the wall. A desperate move (crux) using a tiny edge gains a respite. A further hard move on a pinch leads to a rest at the base of the tufas. Steep moves on good holds lead to the big flake above. Take this on its right side.

36. ?? ........................................................ 7c 22m. Start a few metres to the right and climb to a good hold. Continue up the thin wall above to reach sloping ledges and short left facing corner. Follow this, step right and gain good holds on the top of the last flake and swing left (pumpy) before moving up to the belay under the roof. F.A.

37. La Forqueta Del Diablo o Romocop... 8a+ 26m. The line takes slight weakness in the lower wall and some sloping ledges to reach twin thin tufas up the steep headwall. This being the crux.

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F.A. Pep Ginestar, 1990s

38. Celia ..................................................... 8a/7c+ 26m. A fine line finishing up the large tufa via steep and powerful moves. The lower part is only 7b+ to a very good rest at half height. Top end 7c+ or low 8a. F.A. Pep Ginestar, 1990s

39. ?? ........................................................ 8a 30m. Start up the shallow groove. When it steepens pull up and left to virtually join Celia. Then take the big but very steep corner above. F.A.

40. ?? ........................................................ 7c+ 30m. Start as for the last route but when it steepens move diagonally right across the wall to gain some tufas and move up to the belay below the roof. Some chipped holds. F.A.

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41. Como tu Bautizo ................................ 7b 25m. Take the bulge and follow a diagonal line leftwards up good tufas to the belay below the upper roof. F.A.

42. ?? ........................................................ 7c 25m. Take the left pocketed line through the bulge (past an in-situ quickdraw) and continue up a blunt arte above. The crux move being at the top. F.A.

43. ?? ........................................................ 6c+ 20m. The warm-up climbs the steep bulge to good holds. Two poor sloping holds lead into the crack and up to the big flake. Scramble across the ledge to below a wide cave. Pull up to the belay on the lip. Most people will find themselves well warmed up! 10m. The continuation from the belay to the top of the crag (much harder) and in the region of 7c. F.A.

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44. Llanuras Blicas.................................. 7b 25m. The blue water streak and tufas on the left edge of the wall. Pull over the initial bulge to below the tufas. The crux is getting established above this. Take the upper bulge on the right. F.A. Goicoetxea, N Sanchez, 1990s

45. Todos Los Caminos ............................ 7b 25m. A very good route up the vague tufa corner system in the centre of this wall. The initial bulge is hard. Continue up the corner to gain good holds at the top. Move right and then back left to gain excellent flakes and jugs in the upper part. F.A. J M Garcia, 1990s

46. Si Te Dicen Que Ca ............................ 7a+ 25m. Climb up to the prominent corner which gives intricate climbing. Move right to the arte at the top which brings respite from the bridging. F.A. J M Garcia, 1990s

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ESPACIO TIEMPO 8B+/8C SELLA 1 TOMAS R. LA BUENA VIDA 8C/8C+ 1 IVAN H. PINTORETA 8C SELLA 1 DANI A. BULLARENQUE 8C SELLA 1 IVAN H. LA CACHONDA 8C SELLA 1 IVAN H. EJECUCION RADICAL 8C+ SELLA 1 IVAN H. ESPACIO EN EL OCEANO 8C+ SELLA 1 RAMON J. VARIANTE TALIVAN 8C SELLA 1 IVAN H.
8a+ 8b+ 8c 8b+ 7c+ 8a 8a 7b 7c+ 8b 8a+ 8b 8b 8a 7c+ 8b 8c 7c+ 8a+ 8a+ 7c 8c 8b+ 8a 8a+ Sella menos salvaje Una tia en el espacio Miss septiembre El club de los valientes Encadena2 La cruzada Cantabrico Como tu bautizo La cara del obispo Vida en sella El viaje de chihiro Sella salvaje Espaciometria Les gitanos del arc Valium Espametria Pint2is El puto lastre Proyecto ivan El torbes san juanero Olimpicos privados Pintoreta I van 20 aos El Pequeo zuriyoda Tirali valent 2009-01-05 2008-12-13 2008-11-23 2008-11-05 2008-09-15 2008-09-15 2008-09-08 2008-09-08 2008-09-01 2008-07-23 2008-07-23 2008-07-09 2008-06-15 2008-03-26 2008-03-15 2007-05-09 2007-01-26 2007-01-13 2006-11-28 2006-10-28 2006-10-28 2006-10-04 2006-09-20 2006-09-14 2006-09-14 con 5 grados y nevando vaya churra Equipada por mi 2 intents lo duro de las dos Ivn Hernndez Ivn Hernndez Ivn Hernndez Ivn Hernndez Ivn Hernndez Ivn Hernndez Ivn Hernndez Ivn Hernndez Ivn Hernndez Ivn Hernndez Ivn Hernndez Ivn Hernndez Ivn Hernndez Micha Vanhoudt 2 pegues EquiJj Gonzalez pat per m. Ivn Hernndez Ivn Hernndez Jj Gonzalez Ramn Julian Puigblanque Ivn Hernndez Ivn Hernndez Dani Andrada Ivn Hernndez Ivn Hernndez Ivn Hernndez

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Grade 8c 8b+ 8b 8a+ 8a Route Graded List

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Dosis Variante Septiembre

La Forqueta Del Diablo o Romocop Ergometria Celia El Pito Del Sereno El Gremio Cuestin de Estilo La Hora de Millau Ya Somos Olmpicos Black is Black Todos Los Caminos Llanuras Blicas Ocano Si Te Dicen Que Ca

7c+

7c 7b+

7b

7a+ 7a

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RockTopos climbing guides are intended to provide documented information, directions and route descriptions for the rock climbing at the cliff or area covered by the guide. The guides are intended to supplement the local published guide books to these climbing areas. These guides will be updated to reflect the addition of new routes and to provide current access details. RockTopos guides may be obtained by free download from the Internet. RockTopos guides may be distributed free of charge after obtaining permission from the author.

A free rock climbing guide provided by RockTopos http://d.1asphost.com/costablancarock/ http://www.freewebs.com/costablancarock/

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