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Panzer Aces No. 44 PDF
Panzer Aces No. 44 PDF
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PANZER ACES N 44
2013
26
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1.-SOME HISTORY
The Jagdpanthers gestation started in
late 1942 with a request for a heavy
panzerjeger using the 8.8 cm PAK 43
and the prototype designed by MIAG
which was shown in October 1943 to
Hitler.The concept was similar to other
tank hunters designs. A well proven and
reliable chassis form a Panther in this
2.-THE KIT
Another hit from Tamiya s 1/48 catalog. The kit is not only easy to build but
also has a reasonable level of detail, but
not enough if you want to make a realistic replica of the real vehicle, I must confess; the weak point of the kit is, once
again, the tools and the attachments, as
the general dimensions of the kit and the
level of detail on the upper roof, motor
deck and so on is superb.Hauler sets HLX
48067 (fenders) and 48074 (general
detailing) come to our rescue to help us
not only the granulated (dry paint) surfaces, but also smoothen the surface, a
very necessary thing to get the best
results when you re painting the tank.
Just be careful with the PE parts or the
3.3.-Camouflage.
For this task, I used the typical German camouflage colors
Dark Yellow (RAL 7028), Dark
Green (RAL 6003) and Red
Brown (RAL 8017). For the first
two, I directly used the Gaia
Tank Colors from their military
series special set, very thinned
with Gaia s own thinner
(80%). Red hull was made
using a customized mix with
Tamiya s red hull, red and
orange.As I did not want to
obscure the light grey almost to
a white base coat, I just applied
the different colors in their
definitive place. So, I did not
apply a general dark yellow coat
and then the different color
patches as usual. As you can
see in the picture sequence, I
first applied the yellow, then
the dark green and finally the
red brown. Remember to use
highly diluted paint and do not
try to make the patches immediately; take your time and
paint them little by little in thin
layers.
3.4.-Acrylic Modulation.
In this step we start by using our
paint brush for the first time. Using the
same colors as previously used on each
area of the vehicle but slightly lightened
this once, I started to paint some details
of the kit to provide a more contrasted
color hue. Do not be shy in this step.
You can always darken a color later on if
you were too aggressive during this step,
but trying to highlight a part of a kit later
on is much more difficult and the results
do not end up being satisfactory.The
best places to use this acrylic modulation is on corners, edges, hatches, bolts,
rivets and any prominent feature of the
vehicle.
3.5.-Chipping.
This step makes the difference
between a toy and reproduction of a real
AFV. But it also makes the difference
between a realistically weathered AFV
and a full of ants and insects vehicle
without any logic to it. So, it s a dangerous step were less is more.I have a trick
for this. I imagine myself as a member of
the crew on the vehicle and I think if I
have to climb up to the tank, which one
is the easiest access to the upper part of
the vehicle and hatches?. If I have to
remove the tools to repair the tank, as
I m pretty clumsy, Ill ask myself where
and how I d hit the nearby surface
around the tools fastening. As I m not
Fernando Alonso driving my own Ferrari,
very careless driving is likely to happen,
and just where and how will I crash my
tank against walls, trees, buildings and
so on is what I need to ask myself. These
and many other questions will help you
paints, a mix of red and black or any other specific color from AK or any other
brand, and with a fine brush and a
sponge (with moderation), you ll get
your nice chippings. But be very careful
with PE parts!
3.7.-General Wash.
The main 1/48 scale s drawback is
the lack of detail when compared with
the 1/35 scale. Due to the size, many
details of the kit are simplified on 1/48
kits and Tamiya s kits are the best example of this as their first kits had the tools
molded over the fenders and had many
other simplifications that forced modelers
to remove them or look for other solutions. And the only option was sometimes a more aggressive wash and a more
delicate and volumetric paint for these
areas.So, a general dark wash used to be
very necessary in this scale because it did
enhance the details all over the kit, which
is a very necessary step.For this task,
there are many products available from
AK, Mig Productions, and more recently,
Vallejo s washes. For my taste, oils are
the best option as they allow you to customize the color of your washes easily.
In this case, I used a natural umber oil
color. But dont forget to apply previously
a nice coat of acrylic satin varnish all
over the kit (this varnish will also protect
3.6.-Decals.
I love Archer transfers and I use them as
many times as possible. I choose generic
iron crosses and outlined black numerals
from their 1/48 transfer range. The main
advantage is that they have nearly no thickness once applied. The main inconvenient
is, that these must be carefully placed as
you havent a second chance with them.
3.9.-Oils.
The old and traditional, but highly
effective oil dot technique is of full
validity even when considered against
the most recent and sophisticated painting techniques. As shown in the picture,
several oil dots of different colors are randomly applied over the previously soaked
-with White Spirit- surface. Approximate-
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HISTORICAL
INTRODUCTION
This heavy and enormous German
AFV hunter (65-70 tons) owes its exis-
ASSEMBLY
As Ive mentioned earlier in the
introduction, this is Dragon Kits first
Ferdinand, so were going to need a few
extras in order to give it an optimal level of detail; however if anybody wants
to do this kit right out the box, they
would also have a good kit in their
hands. The kit was improved with A
Voyager PE set, a turned aluminum gun
made by the same brand and a
Friulmodel set of tracks.
The kits assembly is no harder than
replacing the styrene pieces for the PE
ones, paying special attention to the
fenders which are made out of several PE
pieces and need careful assembly. PE
pieces allow us to make a number of different effects such as bumps and hits, so
I decided to leave the main part of a lateral fender out simulating its loss in the
battlefield. The remaining PE pieces are
used for improving the tool fastenings,
the headlight supports and the principal
support for the gun. Other than this and
after having examined a number of period pictures Ive observed that crews
removed the tool box from its original
location and relocated it on the rear of
the vehicle. The Voyager set contains a
fully detailed toolbox, so I get rid of the
one which comes with the kit and place
the Voyager one on the rear.
Now I just have to put the impressive Voyagers turned aluminum gun in
place with the wonderful resin mantlet
which has much better detail than the
one in the kits box. Now the kit is
ready for painting.
17
PAINTING
Before I finished the assembly stage I
was already taking a look at the different color profiles and pictures of this
vehicle and wondering what kind of
camouflage pattern I wanted to reproduce. The first idea I had was to apply
the typical dark yellow German camouflage with the small green threads
which were very common during the
battle for Kursk, but along came my
friend Luis Fuster with a handful of
Ferdinand pictures from the 653
heavy AFV hunters battalion and I saw
one with a green spotted camouflage
pattern which immediately caught my
attention and made up my mind to
reproduce.
Once the vehicle was finished and
after having primed its surface with
Citadels white priming paint I began
working and testing the new zenithal
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COLOR CHART
Base paint and camouflage
Tamiya Color
- XF60 Dark yellow
- XF2 Flat white
- X-22 Clear
Gunze Sangyo
- H-303 Green FS34102
Filters
MiG Productions
- P241 Brown for Panzer Yellow
- P245 Brown for Dark Green
Oil paint gradations
MiG Productions
- Abt 035 Buff
- Abt 155 German Three Tone
Fading
- Abt 001 White
- Abt 140 Basic Flesh Tone
- Abt 092 German Ochre
- Abt 040 Faded Green
- Abt 050 Olive Green
- Abt 090 Industrial Earth
- Abt 080 Wash Brown
- Abt 070 Dark Rust
Streaking
AK Interactive
- AK 012 Streaking Grime
- AK 024 Dark Streaking Grime
- AK 080 Summer Kursk Earth
- AK 013 Rust Streaks
- AK 016 Fresh Mud
- AK 074 Rainmarks for NATO Tanks
- AK 046 Wash for Light Dust
Pigments (dirt)
AK Interactive
- AK 081 Dark Earth
MiG Productions
- P415 Light European Dark
- P027 Light Dust
- P414 Track Brown
- P232 Dry Mud
- P048 Faded Green
- P030 Beach Sand
Paint chips, scratches and dirt stains
Vallejo Panzer Aces Acrylics
- 302 Dark rust
- 313 stencil
- 304 Track primer
- 314 Canvas
- 315 light mud
- 305 Light rubber
AK Interactive
- AK 711 Chipping Color
Damp spots and fuel stains
- 80 Bitume (Titn)
- AK 025 Fuel Stains (AK Interactive)
- Oil and Grease Stain Mixture (MiG Productions)
23
Panzerjger Tiger
(P) Ferdinand
(Sd.Kfz. 184), s.
Pz.Jg.Abt. 654, 1
Batalln, 3
Compaa, Kursk
1943.
Colores:
Dunkelgelb,
Olivgrn y
Rotbraun
Panzerjger Tiger
(P) Ferdinand
(Sd.Kfz. 184), s.
Pz.Jg.Abt. 654,
Kursk (URSS),
julio de 1943.
Colores:
Dunkelgelb y
Olivgrn
24
Panzerjger Tiger
(P) Ferdinad
(Sd.Kfz. 184), s.
Pz.Jg.Abt. 231
4 Batalln, 2
Compaa, Kurks
1943.
Colores:
Dunkelgelb,
Olivgrn y
Rotbraun
Panzerjger Tiger
(P) Ferdinand
(Sd.Kfz. 184), II/s.
Pz.Jg.Rgt. 656,
Kursk (URSS),
julio de 1943.
Colores:
Dunkelgelb y
Olivgrn
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1/35
BACK-ROUND
The vehicle seems to be pieced together from parts collected from different
vehicles and topped up with field-made
parts. The hull seems to be old regular
Panzer III M tank hull with brake cooling
openings and hatches without hinges in
upper front plates of hull. The rear deck
with towing cable clamps, driving light
on left fender, tool box on right fender
and spare wheel brackets bolted on rear
part of fenders are typical Pz III M features. The casemate seems to be regular
StuG item, the main gun is late model
with Saukopf mantle but the roof is
weird. For some reason, the commanders cupola has been removed and
replaced with split hatch of loaders. To
beef-up vehicles protection, armor plates
are welded in front of vehicle, in loaders
27
front plate and finally driver got an armored visor. There are also concrete blocks
on both upper front corners of casemate
to give extra protection, as well as lot of
spare track shoes for same purpose. Few
details such rear deck rack and gun support in front plate are typical late model
features of StuG III G. The same cant be
said of field applied Schrtzens with
pivoting attachment. There are only 3 or
4 Schrtzen plates on left side of vehicle,
28
CONSTRUCTION
Interior
was needed. For engine bay, I bought
a new CMKs set for Dragon models.
Construction was easy even for me, who
is not so familiar with resin. Nice sharp
castings but there were also some defects
in CMK set. Those two longitudial frames under engine need to be tuned, new
holes drilled, to allow torsion bars go
Exterior
I took some parts from DMLs Pz III M
kit. Hull front top-plate A22 was extra
part so I took it, as well as those plastic
tow-cable fasteners on rear-deck. Turned
aluminum gun-tube with DML Saukopf
mantle is from RB Models and Friulmodel
trcks completed construction. I shortened two shock absorbers to get axles in
upper positions and then glued all four
on their places. I cut all location pins
from swing axles to let them turn freely
29
30
I needed a late model roof with loaders hatch opening to sides but without
pilzens. I had only one DML later StuG
roof available so I decided to reproduce
new one from plastic sheet. It was quite
easy task, some careful measurements
and then cutting and gluing parts together one by one. After assembly, weld
seams were made of Magic Sculp. Gunner sight device cover plate is from spare
Aber PE-set.
PAINT-WORK
The RAL 8012 was a base color for
my StuG interior. Everything was airbrushed with red primer, mixture of reddish
Tamiya paints, then masked off and fighting compartment got its semi-gloss
Elfenbein color. All sub-assemblies were
painted separately and then assembled.
All details were painted with paintbrush
and different Vallejo colors.
After painting completed, it was time
for washes. I made some dirty grey
brown general washes mixed from oil
colors and then continued with darker
pin-washes. After some touch-up with
thinner, I applied dust pigments on floor
plates, especially to corners where dust
normally accumulates. When dusting
was ready, I add some grease, oil and
fuel marks randomly areas where needed. Braking system also got some metal
pigment treatment in this step.
The exterior painting started by airbrushing Panzer grey on parts taken
from old Panzer III tank. The casemate
got darker, mid-war shade of Dunkelgelb,
as well as new parts like fenders were
painted with primer red.
Details were picked up with paintbrush. I searched color of concrete for a
while in real samples and decided to use
Deck tan avoiding bluish Blue Tack effect as seen sometimes when creating
concrete in models. Some field applied
steel plates got dark brown base color in
this step.
31
32
The next step was to add lighter contrast color layer on. I used both light grey
and blue paints to do effect. It doesnt
matter what color you use, I prefer blue
because it adds more interest and shades
34
layer, others only thin sheer layer of orange. I also used paper masks to
produce sharper rusty marks caused other plates during storage. Orange
color was again washed partly away and then sealed with varnish. I add
more tones to rusty surface, now with oils, both from tube and also diluted with thinner. I added some marks of burned paint by airbrushing
black color around welded and flame cutted areas. These seams were
also treated with yellowish rust caused by heat during welding. The final
step was to paint fresh weld seams with HU11.
BASE
The terrain base was totally new area
for me but especially this model request
it. I had resin section of cobble stone
street. I cut it in better shape and made
sides of terrain base from plastic strips
and sheet. I filled the pot with thin
layers of Styrofoam and add some wood
beams and metal rods in it. I checked
everything with model and then started
to add Das modeling material to shape
terrain. Before modelling material was
totally dry, I sprinkled some real sand,
pushed it on wet surface and sealed it
with matt scenic glue. I let it dry few
35
36
days and then glued terrain base to wooden base I made beforehand. In this stage, I primered both wooden and terrain
base combo with spray stuff and then
painted sides with semi-gloss black.
After masking, I first painted light grey
37
38
1/35
ASSEMBLY
This Tamiya kit was manufactured in 1976, and
does have all of the periods features. Youll wonder
why Ive built such an old kit, and the truth is that
this kit had been lying around on a shelf for quite
some time and I was not planning on throwing it
away. If anybody wants to build the StuG IV, I would
clearly recommend the much newer Dragon reference which is by far a much better kit.
In order to improve this kit I had to use many sets
and accessories, but I would have pretty much done
the same if I had chosen to build the Dragon kit.
The tracks should be replaced because those included in the kit are quite awful. It is also pretty much
mandatory to change the lateral armored planks with
either P.E. pieces or thin styrene sheet. Details such
as the tools, all the other small odds and ends, the
gun, the canvas, the frontal planks will always help
you add a personal touch to your kit.
The first thing you should do to these old Tamiya
kits is to cover up the holes on the frame originally
intended for inserting a small motor. Plasticard,
putty and sandpaper suffice to get the frame ready.
Another period flaw is the large gap left (large
enough to let you see the inside) once you assemble
the superstructure and the frame together. This gap
however is pretty much concealed by the tracks and
the lateral planks, but I chose to do some extra
handiwork and covered it with some Plasticard and
putty.
ZIMMERIT
I began building the vehicle by doing the zimmerit texture. For those of you which have never
attempted to recreate it there is abundant literature
on the subject and some practical reviews on how to
do it in both Euromodelismo magazine, and Panzer
Aces. Zimmerit was a paste applied on many German AFVs, giving it its special texture with different
tools. This paste was applied with a spiked roll in
the factories, but in the battlefields the soldiers did
what they could with what they had. I had to choo-
42
The 0.7mm knife has an end which can be used for doing
the zimmerit strips one by one.
43
44
Metal fender
manufactured by
Eduard which
fits moderately
well.
In order to
fasten the tools
we have to use
the PE pieces
manufactured by
both Eduard and
Aber, choosing
the ones better
adapted for each
tool. Some
pieces like the
cranks have
been made out
of copper wire.
TOOLS
A good example is the wrench set.
The Aber one is too Dragon specific and
the Eduard one works only for Tamiya.
Between the Aber and the Eduard sets I
could put all the details on the kit. The
PE work to be done actually doubled
because of this situation.
45
MATERIALS EMPLOYED
- Kit:
Sturmgeschtz IV de Tamitya ref 35087
- P.E. sets:
Aber ref. 35044
Eduard ref. 35357
Schurzen Eduard ref. 35361
Schurzen Lionroar ref. 35051
- Aluminum gun:
7.5cm Stuk 40 L/48, Jb Model ref. 35B05
- Panzer Tracks:
PazerIII/IV Ostketten, Friulmodel ref. ATL-83
- Tow cable grips:
M4 Models, ref. 35013
- Tow cables:
M4 Models, ref. 35001
46
TRACKS
MANTLET CANVAS
ADDITIONAL
ARMORING
The other factory glitch was more of a
design error. This vehicle was basically a
StuG III casemate assembled on the frame of a Panzer IV. In order to fit both
together, the drivers post was moved forward exposing him way too much. The
engineers came up with a rather ingenious solution. Some cement blocks
were placed on the frontal area of the
Assembly pictures of Aber and Eduard PE pieces, the JB Models gun, Friulmodel spare track links and additional armoring
made out of Plasticard sheet with hinges. Here we can also see the canvas covering the mantlets base made out of Duro.
Copper wire in different widths is employed for making handles, fastenings, springs, etc.
AFV. The kit does in fact come with these pieces for assembly. Still, crews, much
wiser than the engineers themselves
decided to put on the vehicle sloped
planks in order to protect better these
vulnerable areas from shells. Crews also
adhered whatever they could find of use
in the battlefield. The plank on the left
side had hinges in order to lift it and gain
access to the transmission. These are
made out of Plasticard sheet with dents
along its edges done with a knife in order
to convey the cut made with the welding
iron. The hinges are two sections of a
hypodermic syringe fitted one inside the
SCHURTZEN
At this point I went and worked on the
lateral armored planks or Schrtzen. The
ones that come with the kit are pretty
thick so I went for the PE pieces. Both the
Eduard and Lionroar sets can be used for
this purpose. The hard thing here is to
align these correctly. These were long suffering planks and were removed and reas-
47
PAINTING
There are four known variants of the RAL 7028 dark yellow color. In order to
obtain one a little removed from the usual fare we use Tamiyas XF-59 lighted
up with white and adding some Buff X-57. With this treatment we will obtain
one of the lesser known variants of this color, and bearing in mind that the
remaining camouflage colors cover up about 70% of the vehicle we dont need
to work on the color modulation. The Olivgrn RAL 6003 green is done with
Tamiyas XF-13 J.A. Green, and the brick red Rotbraun RAL 8012 is done with
the brands XF-10 Flat Brown. As we can see on the research pictures, the red
and green spots cover about 70% of the vehicle and are applied trying to
convey the lights and shades of the central European forests.
48
PINTURA DE
FALDONES
SCHURTZEN
The exterior side of the Schurtzen is
obviously painted with the same three
colors used for the outside leaving on
some instances some planks with two
colors and even just one color the
dark yellow base coat-.
The overall oil paint treatment is
done in a similar way throughout the
vehicle. Towards the end of the painting process we do a few well faded
smooth overtones by airbrushing
Model Airs 035 and some splashes
with 983 and 984 (both Model Color
references).
INSIDE OF THE SCHURTZEN
You dont really need to work a lot
here. The inner side of the Schrtzen is
usually out of sight, but in this case we
will paint these, bearing in mind the
mud splash effects created by the
movement of the tracks on these. The
best way to apply paint here in a direct
way is to use a brush soaked with
paint and blow it with an airbrush kit.
Two brown acrylic hues are used here
983 and 984 both Model Color references. In order to mark the areas that
need staining well prepare some
moveable masking.
TOOLS
Then well paint the tools with Panzer Aces references 310, 311, 312, 301,
302 and Model Airs 71072 and 057.
In order to recreate the splashes on the inner side of the Schurtzen we prepare
some masking with a piece of cardboard with irregularly cut edges and we
splash paint with the air jet of an airbrush kit on a paintbrush loaded with the
chosen color.
We do this again on the remaining Schurtzen (These have previously been
taped together) with the area which we want splashed exposed matching both
the tracks and the wheels.
Vallejo acrylics 983 and 984 are used here halfway diluted.
The splashes are smoothened with a lighter hue, obtained by adding some
white paint to the 983.
49
PROFILING
Now we do some profiling throughout the vehicle with Titans PARDO
TITAN, and we do a wash on the zimmerit areas with a mixture of Humbrol
enamels H33 and H-98. Once weve let it
all dry up for 48 hours we begin with the
dry brush work. On the green surface I
used Molaks 1102 Army Green. For the
brown surface I employed Humbrols H118 Matt US Tan, and finally on the
yellow surface I used Molaks 171 Oak
mixed with Humbrols white enamel to
lighten it up but only on the zimmerit
areas.
Pigments are essential for the lower half of the hull. In
this case weve employed here Vallejos dark yellow ocre
73103, natural umber 73109, dark ochre 73017 and Mig
Productions Brick Dust P239 and Rubber Dust P234.
Pigments in this section of the vehicle have been fixed in place with the
Pigment Binder liquid product ref. 26.233.
50
SPARE TRACKS
For the spare tracks and the additional
armored planks I wanted to apply a
recent rust layer in order to convey the
effect that both had been put in place
recently. I did this with slightly orangey
color hues, seeking contrast with the rest
of the vehicle. The colors employed were
Panzer Aces 301, 302, 303, 304 and
Model Airs 057.
TRACKS
I begin by applying Panzer Aces 304,
several Vallejo brown shades mixed randomly, seeking the widest range possible. The shades used are 312, 984 and
Panzer Aces Light Rust to lighten up
things and 871 as well. I work on one
track link at a time trying to mix up paint
and avoid using the same mixtures not
doing two links alike. Then we do some
pretty diffuse stains using Light Rust,
851 and 935. The stains pile up one on
top of another and are applied quite randomly. The final highlights are given
with a mixture of 935 and 877 both
Model Color references.
Afterwards we apply a Titan oil paint
wash with Burnt Umber and use Vallejos Burnt Sienna pigments and Migs
Fresh Rust plus Orange Rust.
The finishing touches here are a couple of Oil paint washes one with Raw
Umber and another one with Burnt
Umber both Titan references.
DIRT ON THE LOWER AREAS
I begin by doing a wash with Humbrols H-98. Before it dried up completely, I did large color stains employing a
mixture of Humbrols H-93 and H-121.
This is done while the H-98 paint is still
fresh mixing it along the edges of the
stains. Then, and while all this is still
fresh we put on the crevices, plank divisions and all such some Vallejos pigments to create some shadings with
73109 and 73113 to lighten it up.
The general paint scratch work is done with an old haywire haired
paintbrush using dark rust, black and a touch of gray.
The spare tracks have received a treatment similar to the one applied on the
exhaust but using more dark rust, light rust and yellowish rust all Panzer Aces
references.
51
The tracks were covered with Panzer Aces IMPRIMACION ORUGAS and we
randomly use an array of pigments fixed in place with Vallejos own pigment
binder.
PAINT CHIPS
The abundant paint chips and scratches on the Schurtzen are made with
Panzer Aces Light Rust and Dark Rust
both straight from the can and mixed up.
These are applied both with a paintbrush
and a small sponge.
52
53
COLOR
THREE COLOR CAMO
(Dunkelgelb RAL 7028)
Base: XF-59 Desert Yellow
(Tamiya Acrylics)
Highlights: XF-59 Desert Yellow +
XF-2 Flat White + XF-57 Buff
(Tamiya Acrylics)
GREEN CAMO
(Olivgrun RAL 6003)
XF-13 J.A. Green (Tamiya Acrylics)
BRICK BROWN
(Rortbraun RAL 8017)
XF-10 Flat Brow (Tamiya Acrylics)
WASHES
Overall dirt and its hues
AK012 Grime Streaks (Ak Interactive)
Raw Sienna, Yellow Ochre, Burnt
umber (Titan oil paint)
German Grey Lights (503 Abteilung)
AK013 Rust Streaks
SCHURTZEN
Same colors as used on the AFV. Dirt
on the mid to low areas.
035 Camouflage Pale Brown
(Model Air Vallejo)
Splashes: 983 Flat Earth
(Model Color Vallejo)
Inside of Schurtzen
984 Flat Brown (Model Color Vallejo)
983 Flat Earth (Model Color Vallejo)
OIL PAINT
Titan
82 Ivory Black
74 Raw Umber
90 Raw Sienna
96 Burnt Sienna
8 Naples Yellow
67 Cinnabar Green
78 Burnt Umber
MIG 502 Abteilung
Abt.015 Shadow Brown
Abt.170 German Grey
Abt.050 Olive Green
Abt.040 Faded Green
Talens Van Gogh
234 Raw Sienna
227 Yellow Ochre
105 Titanium White
629 Green earth
54
CHART
ZIMMERIT AREAS
Add a little white (Humbrol) to the
dry brush hues.
PROFILING
Titan Brown (Titan oils)
H-33 Black y H-98 Chocolate
(Humbrol)
Highlights dry brush
RAL 6003 Green: Army Green 1102
(Molak)
RAL 8017 Brown: Mattus Tay H-118
(Humbrol)
RAL 7028: Dark Yellow: Dak 171
(Molak)
PAINT CHIPS AND SCRATCHES
Panzer Aces
301 Light Rust
302 Dark Rust
303 Yellowish Rust
304 Track Primer
Model Air
71057 Black
TOOLS
Panzer Aces
301 Light Rust
302 Dark Rust
310 Old Wood
311 New Wood
312 Leather Belt
Model Air
71072 Gungrey
71057 Black
TRACKS
Panzer Aces
Base: 304 Track Primer
312 Leather Belt
301 Light Rust
Model Color
984 Flat Brown
871 Leather Brown
851 Bright Orange
935 Transparent Orange
877 Goldbrown
Track washes (Titan)
76 Burnt Umber
96 Burnt Sienna
Pigments for tracks
Burnt Sienna (Vallejo)
Fresch Rust y orange rust (MIG)
58
Thinners and fixing products necessary for the color pigment treatments.
The vehicle
were
working
with has the
basic colors
and a light
dirt patina.
59
60
The front area is done with the same colors weve used
previously on the sides.
Once its all dry we brush off pigments which have not
properly adhered to the surface using a stiff haired paint
brush.
LIGHTER DIRT TREATMENTS ON THE TURRET AND THE UPPER AREAS OF THE HULL.
This
pigment
mixture is
applied with
a makeup
brush.
With the dropper well apply a little bit of White Spirit in order to provide a
soft fixing for small amounts of pigment.
61
62
In order to convey dirt and a little sand around the features which stick out a
bit, we apply the pigments first and then we soak the area with the Pigment
Fixer product.
Dirt is shaped in stain like shapes and trails in a vertical and very realistic way.
Director Editorial
Rodrigo Hernndez Cabos
Redactor Jefe
Rodrigo Hernndez Cabos
Han colaborado en este
nmero
Jos Luis Lpez Ruz,
Mario Gabas,
Jari Hemil,
Alejandro Quintana
EDITORIAL
The AFV hunter concept of a vehicle without a turret is born out of the need of the
German Army to face the superiority of the Russian tanks creating an easier to manufacture
instrument than a regular tank. Doing away with the turret and gaining some room for a gun
of a larger caliber and a lower profile were the results obtained. This improvisation gave
such good results that a string of vehicles with these features. Some of these are featured in
this issue.
Jari Hermilla shows us a vehicle of this characteristics; a Stug III. As usual, Jari shows us
something rare and different; there is nothing usual in his Panzerjaeger: not the schurtzen, not
its structure nor its casemate. Everything is unusual about it; even its paint. Once more we see
how we can do some interesting vehicles with very common kits.
The reports of the Russians concerning the Ferdinand hardly match the reports of its
manufacturers in Germany. The Russians were surprised that none of the Ferdinands captured
or destroyed was affected by shells hitting its combat chamber. Only once was the drivers
chamber hit by a shell coming via its tractor wheel. The Russians figured that once these
minor glitches were fixed, this AFV hunter would become a tough weapon to neutralize. The
complex manufacturing process of this vehicle was the real cause of its downfall.
Mario Gabas has recreated one of the Ferdinands who fought in the battle for Kursk. The
charisma of this monster of a vehicle has been perfectly captured here while undertaking the
Zitadelle Operation.
The production of the StuG IV was never massive because the Panzer IV took a lot of the
manufacturing resources for itself. Most Stug IVs first saw the battlefield in 1944. In this
period the Russian Steppes were no longer the fighting grounds; the central European forests
forced the camouflage patterns with dominant green, brown and yellow colors. Paint is
altogether darker in order to mimic the lights and shadows of the trees. This is what Alejandro
Quintana has sought to obtain mimicking to perfection the real vehicles. Here we can see the
full effects of the camouflage pattern in the midst of an autumn diorama; an outstanding
achievement for this hobby.
The Jagdpanther was without a doubt the best AFV hunter of its time. These vehicles are
credited with the failure of freeing the Arnhem Bridge. Jose Luis Lopez reproduces a vehicle
with the three color pattern applied with the latest techniques for miniature AFVs. The vehicle
is in the 1/48th scale but the effects obtained, make it look larger. Consistent with the time of
the year, yellow base color here is almost covered by the other camouflage colors. A base with
a railroad track section rounds up a fine piece of work.
Probably some of our readers will miss the larger Panzerjaeger; the Jagdtiger. Lovers of this
vehicle will have to fetch the latest issue of Model Laboratory: Model Laboratory issue 5.
We close this issue with a review of the ways to fix color pigments with different
procedures, applicable depending on the results which we want to obtain.
Fotgrafos
Rodrigo Hernndez Cabos
Fernando Caellas Planchuelo
Ilustraciones
Rodrigo Hernndez Cabos
Diseo y maquetacin
KOMMAD S.L.
Imprime
Imprimia Artes grficas
Fotomecnica
ACCIN PRESS, S.A.
J. David Hernndez Chacn
Infografa
J. David Hernndez Chacn
Redaccin, Equipo Tcnico,
Administracin y Publicidad
ACCIN PRESS, S.A.
c/Ezequiel Solana, 16
28017 Madrid
Tel.: 913 675 708
914 086 135
Fax: 914 085 841
accionpress@euromodelismo.com
Suscripciones
Maris Chacn y
Fernando Caellas
Tel. 913 675 708
Edita
ACCIN PRESS, S.A.
Depsito Legal
M-51328-2003
ISSN: 1886-4457
Queda prohibida la
reproduccin total o parcial de
fotografas, textos y dibujos,
mediante impresin,fotocopia
o cualquier otro sistema, sin
permiso escrito de la editorial.
Panzer Aces no se hace
necesariamente solidaria de las
opiniones expresadas por sus
colaboradores.
www.euromodelismo.com
www.facebook.com/PanzerAces.
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