Topo CastelletDeCalp

RockTopos
Rock Climbing Guide

Costa Blanca
Castellet de Calp
A free climbing guide provided by RockTopos

http://d.1asphost.com/costablancarock/
http://www.freewebs.com/costablancarock/
Published 2010— Revision 7
RockTopos Castellet de Calp
INFORMATION English
All rights reserved. Copyright © RockTopos 2006-2010.
Every effort has been made to make this publication as accurate as possible however the information
provided is on an as-is basis. The descriptions of routes and the grades are recorded to assist the
climber to attempt routes within their ability. Where the correct route name is not known a substitute
is added in brackets ().
The publication of this topo does not imply any right of access or right to climb on this cliff.
The author does not recognise any liability for injury or damage caused to, or by, climbers, third par-
ties or property arising from the use of the information provided in this publication.
New information and updates to this guide are available at
If you have any comments, additional routes or corrections please e-mail these to
rocktopos@hotmail.com
INFORMACIÓN Español
Todos los derechos reservados. © RockTopos 2006-2010 del copyright.

Se ha hecho todo tipo de esfuerzo de hacer esta publicación tan exacta como sea posible sin embar-
go la información proporcionada está sobre una base básica. Las descripciones de rutas y de los
grados están registrados para ayudas al escalador ha realizar las rutas dependiendo de su habilidad.
Donde el nombre correcto de la ruta no se sabe un substituto se agrega en paréntesis ().
La publicación de este topo no implica el derecho al acceso o el derecho de subir en este acantilado.
El autor no responsabiliza por ningún tipo de dais a lesión, u otro tipo de danos, en escaladores,
teresas personas o levantamiento de propiedades por el uso de la información proporcionado en
esta publicación,
Para mas información y actualización de esta guía puedes encontrarla en:
Comentarios, rutas adicionales o correcciones:

rocktopos@hotmail.com
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS RECONOCIMIETOS
Thanks to Natasha and George for belaying. Also to Elana for the translations.
Page 2 Copyright © RockTopos 2010

Castellet de Calp RockTopos
LOCATION SITUACIÓN
Copyright © RockTopos 2010 Page 3

English
» This publication is a rock climbing guide to the crags on the Castellet de Calp massive in the Costa
Blanca region of Spain. Castellet de Calp is situated above the N332 road between the Mascarat
Gorge and the town of Calpe. The climbing is newly developed by Richard Davies. «
GENERAL APPROACH
» There are two possible approaches, from the north or the south. If travelling from the north along
the N332 pass Calpe and then turn in to the Maryvilla complex (this is a no-left-turn so pass the junc-
tion and turn back north at the lay-by around the bend). Once in the Maryvilla follow the road and
take all the right turns which are signposted to Castellet de Calp. Park near the rough track entrance
(next to a villa) and then follow this wide track which heads towards the Castellet (3 or 4 minutes).
This joins up with the other approach.
Alternatively when travelling from the south on the N332, take the turning into the Mascrat complex.
Follow the road to the base and pass the gorge the take the turning onto the new road that leads
upwards to the Castellet and the Toix ridge. At the top park at the turning point and find the path
leading around to the north face.
The path is marked by a number of cairns and takes a couple of minutes to reach Cueva Pequeña.
Pass the black tree and reach the edge of the face close to a electricity pylon. Follow the path down
and either climb over two large boulders or skirt these by going right. The Sector Cueva Pequeña is
above you. Use the fixed rope to assist you in gaining the cave.
Sector Cueva Grande is across to the right at the same level.
For the central wall follow the path down the hillside, initially away from the walls then back to them—
allow 5 minutes approach time. «

ASPECT AND CLIMATE

» The sectors all face north east and only receive a little direct sun. They are also exposed and catch
the wind. «
GEAR
» All the routes are quite new and are fully bolted using 10mm bolts. Most belays can be lowered off
without the need to thread them. The exception here are the multi-pitch routes.
A 60m rope is sufficient for all the routes. «
When to Climb
Spring Yes - but avoid Cueva Pequeña on cold windy days
Summer Yes - better if there’s some breeze
Autumn Yes - same as Spring
Winter Ok - but may be cold if it’s a cloudy day.
Venue and Aspect

Very little sun - some in the very early morning
Sun or Shade The Central Wall gets some sun late in the afternoon
in the summer.
The top of the walls will catch any breeze going.
Wind
Good venue in hot weather.
The routes in the cave of Sector Cueva Pequeña will
stay dry in most rain. Being in the rain shadow of the
Wet weather
Costa Blanca it is probably one of the safest wet
weather options for climbing.
Very little seepage and the walls dry extremely
Seepage
quickly after rain.

Español
» Esta publicación es una guía de escalada en roca a los riscos en Castellet de Calp masivas en la
región de la Costa Blanca de España. Castellet de Calp se sitúa por encima de la carretera N- 332
entre Mascarat Gorge y la ciudad de Calpe. La escalada está de nuevo desarrollada por Richard
Davies. «
ENFOQUE GENERAL / RUTA GENERAL

» Hay dos posibles enfoques, desde el norte o el sur. Si viaja desde el norte a lo largo de la N - 332
pasa Calpe y, a continuación, a su vez, el complejo Maryvilla ( no tiene giro a la izquierda pase la
difurcación y vuelva al norte donde la zona de descanso alrededor de la curva ). Una vez en Maryvi-
lla seguir el camino y tomar todas salidas a la derecha que señalen a Castellet de Calp. Aparque
cerca de la vía de entrada ( al lado de la villa ) y, a continuación, seguir esta pista ancha hacia heads
de Castellet ( 3 o 4 minutos ). Esto se une con el otro enfoque.
Alternativamente cuando viajan desde el sur por la N - 332, tome el desvío en el complejo Mascrat.
Siga la carretera a la base y pasar el desfiladero tome el desvío hacia la nueva carretera que condu-
ce hacia arriba a la de Castellet y la Toix canto. Ve a la parte superior del parque en el punto de
inflexión y encuentra el camino que conduce a alrededor de la cara norte.
El camino es marcado por un número de cairns y toma un par de minutos para alcanzar Cueva Pe-
queña.
Pase el árbol negro y alcance el borde de la cara cerca de un torre de electricidad. Siga el camino
abajo y ,o bien, suba más de dos bloques de rocas grandes o bordee estos saliendo por la derecha.
El Sector Cueva Pequeña está por encima de usted. Use la cuerda como ayuda para a alcanzar la
cueva.

Por la pared central sigue el camino abajo por la ladera, al principio lejos de las paredes y luego
vuelve a ellas - 5 minutos. «
ASPECTO Y CLIMA
» Los sectores toda la cara nordeste y sólo reciben un poco de sol directo. Ellos también están ex-
puestos y cogen el viento. «
EQUIPO
» Todas las rutas están muy nuevas y están plenamente atornilladas utilizando pernos de 10mm. La
mayor parte de aseguramientos pueden ser bajados sin la necesidad de hilarlos. La excepción aquí
están las rutas de multi-dia pasón. Un 60m la cuerda es suficiente para todas las rutas. «
Cuando a Escalar
Primavera Si - Evitar días ventosos fría
Verano Si - Mejor si hay alguna brisa
Otoño Si - El mismo que el de primavera
Invierno Ok - pero puede ser frío si es un día nublado.
Lugar y Aspecto
Muy poco sol - Muy temprano por la mañana
Sol o Sombra El muro central se tarde algo de sol por la tarde en
el verano.
La parte superior de las paredes se va capturas
Viento
cualquier brisa. Bueno en tiempo de calor.
Las rutas en la cueva del Sector de la Cueva Peque-
ña permanecerá seco en la mayoría de la lluvia.
Lluvia Estar en la sombra de lluvias de la Costa Blanca, es,
probablemente, una de las más seguras opciones
de lluvia para la escalada.
Muy pocas filtraciones y las paredes secas muy
Filtración
rápidamente después de la lluvia.

Sector 1: Cueva Pequeña
» The first sector is a cave on the

edge of the wall. A scramble and an
in-situ rope leads to the base of the
cave. This sector catches any wind
and can be quite cold. The cave
routes will remain dry in rain«
The first two routes climb the slabby wall down and below the cave. Start from the gully just before
the rope.
□ 1. Life’s a Block ································· 6b+

25m. Climb the shallow groove to a bulge. Pull over this take the slab to gain the large block. Step
right to the belay.
F.A. Richard Davies, 20th August 2007
□ 2.Hunting Party ································· 6b+

25m. Start a little further up the gully and climb the rib to get established on the slab. Go right through
the overlap and then climb the steeper wall on good holds.
□ 3. The Razors Edge ··························· 7b+

25m. Start just below the cave. Cross the slab then climb the wall to reach a tufa where the wall
steepens. Using a pocket and poor edges gain a vague crack and better holds until a step right gains
The Gash. Pull up and left to the belay.
F.A. Richard Davies 2007

►Richard Davies on Hunting

Party (6b+). Photo: R Davies.
□ 4. The Gash ······································ 6c+

25m. A very unusual route up the gash in the wall. Climb the initial roof to gain the deep runnel
above. It is possible to climb completely in side for a hands-off rest. At the top move right to a belay
in a shallow corner. Very steep but very big holds.
□ 5. Collateral Damage ·························· 7c

25m. An awesome pitch through the steepest part of the cave. Cross the initial roof to gain a shallow
depression. Pull up to better holds, then a hard move gains sharp jugs in the roof above. Swing left
then go up to gain the belay below another roof.
F.A. Richard Davies 27th August 2007

Sector 2: Cueva Grande
» The bigger cave to

the right is approached
by following a path
rightwards and around
a large boulder. «

□ 6. ? ··················································· 6c(?)
60m. Climb the left rib of the furthest most cave through the bulge to the first belay. Up the slab and
into the corner. Climb the corner to the top of the cliff. Descend down the excellent path at the back
of the Castellet.
1. 20m.
2. 20m.
3. 20m.
F.A.
►Al Austin on Ant Invasion (7a).

Photo: R Davies.

Sector 3: Central Wall

» The Central Wall is situated down the hillside and is much more sheltered than the higher sectors.
The left-side provides steep bulging climbing which remains dry in rain. Further right more vertical
walls offer climbing on generally good but sharp holds. «
□ 1. Stalking the Angel ·························· 7b+

15m. Climb the steep wall above the approach path with three hard sections between the good holds.
F.A. Richard Davies, 16th June 2009
□ 2. Shogun ·········································· 7c+

15m. Take the centre of the wall past a large tufa and some small finger pockets. Low in the grade.

□ 3. FHM ··············································· 7a
12m. A hard start up the tufas gain good pockets and the obvious undercut. From this reach a good
in-cut pocket, then edges in the wall and gain excellent jugs below the belay.
F.A. Richard Davies, Al Austin, 16th June 2009
□ 4. Destination Lost ····························· 7a+

20m. Climb the steep left trending diagonal line using pockets on the right wall. At the roof pull right-
wards and climb the slab above to the belay. The sharp rock is improving with traffic but it’s still quite
tough for the on-sight grade, but an easy red-point.
F.A. Richard Davies, Jake Rogers 20th December 2007
□ To the right a single bolt marks the line of a future project.
□ 5. Chasing the Dinosaur ···················· 7c

18m. A steep sustained route. Start below the steepest part of the orange wall. Climb the initial bulge
on excellent tufa holds and pockets. A hard move using a poor pocket gains a fingery section before
which the climbing eases.
F.A. Richard Davies 31st August 2007
►Richard Davies on the first ascent

of Chasing the Dinosaur (7c). Pho-
to: N Davies.

□ 6. The Reckoning ····························· 7c

18m. Tackle the steep lower bulge 2 metres to the right (crux) and pull up to a good rest. Avoid the
flake on the left by stepping right and gain a good hold in the depression above. Continue up and
slightly to the right until almost joining Brain Freeze where it is possible to move back left to the be-
lay.
F.A. Richard Davies 20th December 2007
□ 7. Brain Freeze ·································· 7a

18m. The obvious diagonal pocket line. Climb to a hole then pull up the thin flake to gain a good
pocket and follow the crack line above using a mixture of hand jams or pockets.
F.A. Richard Davies 31st August 2007

►Richard Davies on the first

ascent of Brain Freeze (6c+).
Photo: N Davies.
□ 8. The Kraken ··································· 7c+

25m. Climb a short wall to gain a tufa and follow this to the bulge. Reach a good edge high in the
bulge and use a small edge to gain holds below the roof. Above the roof easy climbing leads to the
belay.
F.A. Richard Davies , 31st August 2009
□ 9. Brandelero ···································· 6c+

25m. With sustained interest, climb to reach a wide crack and go up the wall to a flake and better
holds in a break. Pull up to below the roof. Move around this and up the shallow groove to the belay.
□ 10. Brando Alto ································· 6c

20m. A fantastic pitch, perfect rock and position. From the belay climb the slab rightwards to reach a
good flake. Span the groove and pull (crux) to excellent holds above the bulge. Reach a flake and
pull up to the belay. It’s 55m to the ground, but a 70m rope will comfortable get you to the 1st belay.
F.A. Richard Davies, 2nd June 2008
□ 11. Sleepyhead ·································· 7b

16m. Start next to a hole at ground level and below the grey streak. Climb the technical wall to a
good slot and continue awkardly through the bulge after which it’s a little easier to the belay.

□ 12. Sleepynut ····································· project

25m. Climb to and clip the belay on Sleepyhead and then make a hard boulder problem move
through the bulge. Then follow excellent holds to the belay.
F.A.
□ 13. The Juggler ·································· 7a

20m. A sharp route. Use small edges to gain a good tufa and undercut. Pull up left to gain a shallow
corner and continue up the sharp wall to the roof. Excellent holds lead through this to a long pull for
further good hold and a go up to the belay.

□ 14. Poison Ivy ···································· 7b
20m. Make long moves using good flakes and tufas to gain a big jug in the middle of the wall. When it
steepens climb the orange groove or the wall to the left and then follow smooth rock above to the
belay.
F.A. Richard Davies, Al Austin, 2nd June 2008
□ 15. Suero ········································· 7b

20m. Climb the big pockets to gain a small flake in the wall. Pull up to the small roof and rest above.
Continue direct through the bulge to gain a good flake. Step left and move delicately to the belay.
F.A. Richard Davies, August 2008
□ 16. Ant Invasion ································· 7a

20m. Climb pockets to gain the tufas next to a useful tree. An intense section gains excellent holds
and a step right onto a slab. Delicately up to the roof then take the bulges above.
F.A. Richard Davies, George Heydon 20th August 2007
□ 17. Congrio ······································· 7c

20m. Take the steep start above the big hole on good pockets. Make a difficult pull rightwards to get
established on the wall. Tip-toe to gain an ok hold on the lip of the slab and balance onto this. Climb
the bulging roof to step right to the belay.
□ 18. Lockdown ···································· 6c+

20m. Climb the steep bulge on good holds and pull onto the sloping ramp. Continue in a direct line
but move left to clip the last bolt on Ant Invasion to avoid the loose blocks above and to the right.
F.A. Richard Davies, George Heydon 20th August 2007
□ 19. The Long Con ······························ 7b+

1. 25m. 7b. Climb a crack to a small roof and then the technical groove above. Pull left through the
bulge on better holds and up easy slab to the belay.
2. 20m. 7b+. Step right and then climb the wall leftwards to reach a poor tufa. Pull up to good holds
and make final tricky moves to the belay.
3. 20m. 7a. Pull around the bulge to gain an excellent pocket. Gain a vague crack line and continue
up the smooth wall to gain a shallow scoop and flake to the belay.

Further right there is the big central wall with a cut out sitting at the base..
□ 20. Vamos a la Playa ·························· 7b

25m. At the left side of the cut out climb to a good hold and the first bolt. A fingery section (crux)
gains good holds and easier climbing leads to the big ledge. The wall above provides sustained tech-
nical interest to the belay.
□ 21. Red Bull ······································· 7c+

25m. Start below the tufa in the centre of the wall. A very hard boulder problem gains good holds in
the centre of the wall. Take a shallow groove and pull on to a short slab. Take the vertical wall above
on solution pockets to a belay at a shallow hole.
F.A. Richard Davies, 31st August 2009

□ 22. Quicksilver ·································· 7a
20m. Start at the edge of the slab and pull left onto the wall climb this to join Pilot Error at the flake
but continue direct to the ledge. Climb the groove.
□ 23.Fast Lane ······································ 7c+

25m. The upper pitch. Climb the bulge (crux) and continue up the wall on small edges until better
holds appear just before the top. Sustained and sharp.
□ 24.Pilot Error ····································· 6c+

20m. Start at the edge of the slab and follow the edge until able to move left onto the wall and gain a
good flake. Continue up this to the big ledge. Step right and climb the slab to the belay.
F.A. Richard Davies, Al Austin, 16th June 2009
□ 25. Perfect ‘10’ ··································· 7b

25m. A fantastic pitch on immaculate rock. Pull up from the belay and make a long move to good
holds. Continue direct into a shallow scoop. Balance up this (crux) to reach jugs. Trend slightly left-
wards up the wall on small flakes until pulling easily up to the belay. A 70m rope is sufficient to lower
off.
□ 26. Maiden Voyage ······························ 6a+

18m. Start up the slab to reach the first bulge. Continue up the groove to a belay on the steep bulge.


□ 27. Maiden Voyage II ··························· 6c
30m. A long pitch. Follow Maiden Voyage to the belay but pull through the bulge. Gain a rest stand-
ing on the blocks before stepping left up a shallow corner. Pull out using large holds on to the wall
and climb this to the belay.
The next route is reached by following the path down from the crag and along to the right. Scramble
to the base of the wall.
□ 1. Ice Age ··········································· 6a

20m. Start further right at the edge of a small ledge. Climb the flake and follow a line up the slab to
gain a flake. At the top step left to the belay on Maiden Voyage.
F.A. Richard Davies, Steve Roberts,19th August 2009
□ 2. The Black Pearl ······························· 7a+

22m. Star as for Ice Age but climb direct up the slab to gain flakes. Pull up and right to a go rest and
climb on good holds to the belay.
F.A. Richard Davies, 2nd April 2010
□ 3. Iron Man ········································· 7b

30m. Use two pockets to get established on the wall. Climb this to reach a flake and pull up to the top
to gain good holds. Move into the groove and pull out left to take a thin wall to the belay.
□ 4. Captain Barbosa ····························· 7b+

30m. Pull over the low roof and climb the wall to gain a rest below a short crack. Pull up this and use
pockets to gain the upper shield of rock. Two one finger pockets gain a good jug.


Grade Route name
□ Shogun
7c+ □ Red Bull
□ Fast Lane
□ Collateral Damage
□ Chasing the Dinosaur
7c □ The Reckoning
□ Congrio
□ The Razors Edge

□ The Long Con
7b+ □ Stalking the Angel
□ Captain Barbosa
□ Sleepyhead
□ Vamos a la Playa
7b □ Perfect ‘10’
□ Suero
□ Iron Man
□ Destination Lost
7a+ □ The Black Pearl □ Poison Ivy
□ Ant Invasion
7a □ The Juggler □ Quicksilver
□ Brain Freeze □ FHM
□ Lockdown
□ Pilot Error
6c+ □ Brandelero
□ The Gash
□ Brando Alto
6c □
□ Maiden Voyage Part II
□ Life’s a Block
6b+ □
□ Hunting Party
6b □ □
6a+ □ Maiden Voyage □
6a □ Ice Age □

RockTopos climbing guides are intended to provide documented information, directions and route
descriptions for the rock climbing at the cliff or area covered by the guide.
The guides are intended to supplement the local published guide books to these climbing areas.
These guides will be updated to reflect the addition of new routes and to provide current access
details.
RockTopos guides may be obtained by free download from the Internet.
RockTopos guides may be distributed free of charge after obtaining permission from the author.
A free rock climbing guide provided by RockTopos


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Rock Climbing Guide

A free climbing guide provided by RockTopos

Todos los derechos reservados. © RockTopos 2006-2010 del copyright.

Comentarios, rutas adicionales o correcciones:

Page 2 Copyright © RockTopos 2010

Copyright © RockTopos 2010 Page 3

Page 4 Copyright © RockTopos 2010

ASPECT AND CLIMATE

Spring Yes - but avoid Cueva Pequeña on cold windy days

Summer Yes - better if there’s some breeze

Autumn Yes - same as Spring

Winter Ok - but may be cold if it’s a cloudy day.

Venue and Aspect

Copyright © RockTopos 2010 Page 5

ENFOQUE GENERAL / RUTA GENERAL

Page 6 Copyright © RockTopos 2010

Primavera Si - Evitar días ventosos fría

Verano Si - Mejor si hay alguna brisa

Otoño Si - El mismo que el de primavera

Invierno Ok - pero puede ser frío si es un día nublado.

Copyright © RockTopos 2010 Page 7

Sector 1: Cueva Pequeña

» The first sector is a cave on the

□ 1. Life’s a Block ································· 6b+

□ 2.Hunting Party ································· 6b+

□ 3. The Razors Edge ··························· 7b+

Page 8 Copyright © RockTopos 2010

►Richard Davies on Hunting

□ 4. The Gash ······································ 6c+

□ 5. Collateral Damage ·························· 7c

Copyright © RockTopos 2010 Page 9

Sector 2: Cueva Grande

» The bigger cave to

Page 10 Copyright © RockTopos 2010

►Al Austin on Ant Invasion (7a).

Copyright © RockTopos 2010 Page 11

Sector 3: Central Wall

□ 1. Stalking the Angel ·························· 7b+

□ 2. Shogun ·········································· 7c+

Page 12 Copyright © RockTopos 2010

□ 4. Destination Lost ····························· 7a+

□ 5. Chasing the Dinosaur ···················· 7c

►Richard Davies on the first ascent

Copyright © RockTopos 2010 Page 13

□ 6. The Reckoning ····························· 7c

□ 7. Brain Freeze ·································· 7a

Page 14 Copyright © RockTopos 2010

►Richard Davies on the first

□ 8. The Kraken ··································· 7c+

□ 9. Brandelero ···································· 6c+

□ 10. Brando Alto ································· 6c

□ 11. Sleepyhead ·································· 7b

Copyright © RockTopos 2010 Page 15

□ 12. Sleepynut ····································· project

□ 13. The Juggler ·································· 7a

Page 16 Copyright © RockTopos 2010

□ 15. Suero ········································· 7b

□ 16. Ant Invasion ································· 7a

□ 17. Congrio ······································· 7c

□ 18. Lockdown ···································· 6c+

□ 19. The Long Con ······························ 7b+

Copyright © RockTopos 2010 Page 17

□ 20. Vamos a la Playa ·························· 7b