técnica del encadenado con ganchillo: usamos el ganchillo

técnica petitpoint con abalorios: usamos una arpillera

wigjig: usamos el wigjig para dar forma al alambre

El wigjig es un aparato con el que podemos dar forma al alambre ayudandonos con unas clavijas
para doblarlo y haciendo ondulaciones y círculos

Hay varios tipos de wigjig que paso a explicar, cada uno adecuado para ciertos tipos de diseños,
proximamente explicaré como hacer uno casero. Con unos clavos y una tabla de madera os podeis fabricar
uno, en el foro tambien se han dado muchas ideas desde realizar un wigjig con arcilla o fimo hasta usar celo
para dar distintos grosores a las clavijas. Con un poco de imaginación os podeis ahorrar lo que cuesta un
wigjig que ronda los 25 euros

Tecnicas en orden alfabetico - Tecnicas con fotos

WigJig Original
La plantilla tiene 4 clavijas

Mini-Athena WigJig
Es una plantilla del metal con 9 clavijas. Adecuado para hacer nudos célticos y egipcios. Puedes hacer
diseños que con otro wigjig no podrias

Proyecto
 WigJig Delphi Transparent Jig
Tiene clavijas y agujeros mas pequeños que el olympus y olympus-lite por ello los diseños son mas
pequeños y mas delicados. Es un gran complemento al Olympus pues facilita hacer conjuntos de bisuteria.
Por ejemplo unos pequeños pendientes realizados con este wigjig podrian conjuntarse con un collar o
brazalete realizado con el olympus. 181 agujeros. 3"x3"

Aqui podeis ver mas detalles y componentes

 Beginners WigJig Olympus-Lite
Es ideal para principiantes. Colocale en una plantilla, pon las clavijas y da forma al alambre segun tu diseño.
238 agujeros

WigJig Olympus Transparent Jig

Tiene el espacio de trabajo mas grande que cualquier wigjig, permitiendo uqe hagas diseños mas grandes
para pendientes, pulseras... Es tambien el mas grueso. Es una opcion para diseñadores mas profesionales de
alambre.
482 agujeros. 5"x5"

PLANTILLAS
 WigJig Electra
Tiene una forma circular que facilita hacer diseños con curvas y circulos, puedes hacer diseños que no
podras realizar con otros wigjig. Tiene el mismo tamaño de las clavijas como el Olympus y el Olympus-Lite

Plantilla

WigJig Cyclops
Tambien es una plantilla circular que facilita hacer diseños con curvas y circulos los cuales no se pueden
hacer con otro wigjig

Plantilla

Para electra y cyclops detalles

 Metal Thing-A-Ma Jig

Para los diseñadores de alambre que buscan una plantilla mas pesada. Las clavijas son más gruesas que la
mayoría de las otras plantillas. Como la plantilla no es transparente, remontar un diseño sobre un patrón o
fabricar una espiral no es posible. Sin embargo, sigue siendo simple diseñar joyería con alambre. Como las
clavijas pequeñas pasan hasta el fondo se debe de trabajar sin mover la tabla, por ello y al estar provisto de
patas no es adecuado para trabajar en la mano ni para darlo vueltas mientras trabajamos

COMPARACION DE CARACTERISTICAS CON LOS WIGJIG

Specifications & Comparison of WigJig Jewelry Making Jigs

Olympus
Feature Olympus Delphi Cyclops Electra Centaur* Mini-Athena
Lite

Transparent Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes No

Type of Pegs Movable Movable Movable Movable Movable Moveable Stationary

Number of
482 238 182 483 448 441 N/A
peg holes

Jig Size 5" square 3" X 4" 3" square 4.5" square 5" square 4" Square 1-1/2" X 2-3/4"

Metal Metal Metal Metal Metal Metal Metal

Composition
of pegs
Metal Peg
3/32" 3/32" 1/16" 1/16" 3/32" 1/16" 1/8"
Diameter

No of metal
pegs
40 movable 10 movable 20 movable 10 movable 20 movable 20 moveable 9 stationary
packaged with
jig

Extra metal
Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes N/A
pegs available

Super Pegs
(round and
square) Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes No
available
separately

Spiral
Maker Plus
Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes No
available
separately

Jig Price $49.95 $20.97 $21.97 $39.95 $49.95 $44.95 $15.95

*= The WigJig Centaur will be available in October 2004

UN MONTON DE DISEÑOS PARA CADA WIGJIG

Olympus & Delphi

2-1 Bracelet
This bracelet jewelry making project is an advanced beginner's project.
The bracelet is made of 6 wire components that can be made on any
WigJig with these components connected by wrapped bead links. The
name for the bracelet is 2-1 simply because the wire components used
make a bracelet that alternates between two wrapped bead links then
one wrapped bead link, then back to two.

Jewelry Supplies: Tools Required:

• 12 inches of 16 or 18 gauge wire preferably 1/2 hard • Round Nose Pliers

• 24 inches of 22 gauge wire preferable 1/2 hard • Flush Cutter
• Ten 8mm beads • Bent Chain Nose Pliers (2)
• Two 2 or 2.5mm Beads • WigJig Delphi, Cyclops, Centaur, Olympus,
• 2.5" fine commercial chain (optional for guard chain) Electra or Olympus-Lite
• 1 commercial clasp • Nylon Jaw Pliers (recommended)
• Fine Step Jaw Pliers (recommended)

• 45 minutes of free time

Jewelry Making Skills Required:

• Use of a WigJig to make wire components.

• Ability to make the wrapped bead link to connect wire components.

The wire component used to make this bracelet can be made on any WigJig. The pattern
shown at right is for one of our jigs with a circular peg pattern. The pattern shown below
right is for one of our jigs with a square peg pattern like the WigJig Delphi.

Cyclops/Centaur
Step 1: Cut and make a loop in a 1-7/8" segment of 16 or 18 gauge wire.

Step 2: Straighten the wire by pulling it through the jaws of your nylon jaw pliers while
holding the initial loop.

Step 3: Place the initial loop on peg one of your peg pattern. Position peg 2 in your jig,
but not peg 3. Wrap the wire around peg 2 as shown above, leaving the wire resting
adjacent to the hole for peg 3. This will require pushing the wire just beyond the hole for
peg 3 and letting it relax back into that position.
Delphi
Step 4: Add peg three to your jig and wrap the wire around peg 3 as shown.

Step 5: Remove the wire from your jig and cut the excess wire. Close the final loop made
on peg 3 with your bent chain nose pliers. Step 5
Step 6: Harden and flatten the wire component by squeezing it in the jaws of your nylon
jaw pliers.
Step 7: Make a total of six wire components using the instructions in steps 1-6.

Step 8: Now we begin to build the bracelet. Start by connecting one of the wire components
(component A at right) to another (component B) with a wrapped bead link and an 8mm bead
(bead 1). Connect the middle hole on component A to the middle hole on the component B.
Instructions for making the wrapped bead link can be found here.

Step 9: Next we need to connect the outside holes in wire component A to the next wire
component, component C. Using the same technique for the wrapped bead link and your 8 mm
beads, connect the loop made on peg 1 in component A to the loop made on peg 3 in the next
component (component C) using wrapped bead link 2 shown at right. Then with another 8mm
bead connect the loop made on peg 3 in component A to the loop made on peg 1 in component C
using wrapped bead link 3. This will require you to cut any excess wire as you wrap the second
part of this wrapped bead link closed to a length of about 7/16" long so that it will be able to wrap
without getting caught in bead 2.

Step 10: Now add wire component D shown above, right by connecting the
middle loop in component C to the middle loop in component D with wrapped
bead link 4.

Step 11: At this point in assembling the bracelet we have four wire components
connected (A, B, C and D). We now need to add component E, the last one on
this side of the bracelet. This is done using 8mm beads and wrapped bead links
5 and 6.
Step 12: Connect the center loop in component E to wrapped bead link and 8mm
bead number 7 as shown at right. Finish the second loop in wrapped bead link 7
as a regular wrapped loop, not connected to anything.
Step 13: Use wrapped bead link 8 to connect between the ending loop in
wrapped bead link 7 and your commercial clasp. If you want a bracelet that is 7-
1/2 inches long (the normal length for a bracelet), then the bead used for
wrapped bead link 8 should be 2.5mm in size. It is hard to see in the pictures at
right, but a 2.5mm round, gold-filled bead was used in the bracelet shown. At
the same time that you connect your clasp to wrapped bead link 8, also connect
your guard chain if you decide to use one.
Step 14: Repeat steps 11, 12 and 13 on the opposite end of the bracelet to
complete the other side of the bracelet. This completes your 2-1 bracelet.
The matching earrings for this bracelet are easy to make. They require 8 inches of 18
gauge wire and 8 inches of 22 gauge wire, both preferably 1/2 hard, 8 8mm beads, 2 2.5 or
3mm beads, two head pins and one pair of commercial ear wire findings. To make the
matching earrings, begin by making four of the 2-1 wire components using the instructions
from Page 2. Next you need to connect two of the 2-1 wire components using 8mm beads
and the wrapped bead link. On one end of these connected 2-1 wire components you hang
a bead dangle using a head pin and two 8mm beads separated by one 2.5 or 3mm bead. On
the other end you attach one of your ear wire findings. Make two identical earrings.

Materials Used for 2-1 Bracelet:

The materials used in making this bracelet in gold-filled wire are as follows:

• 18 gauge gold-filled 1/2 hard round wire (Item 1010) or 16 gauge gold-filled 1/2
hard round wire (Item 0264)
• 22 gauge gold-filled 1/2 hard round wire (Item 1013)
• 8mm Swarovski Crystal Pearls or Round Beads
• 2.5mm Round Gold-filled Beads (Item 2592)
• Gold Filled Clasp (Item 0337 or Item 0017)
• Fine Gold-Filled Chain (optional) (Item 2609)

The Materials used in making this bracelet in Sterling Silver wire are as follows:

• 18 gauge Sterling Silver 1/2 hard round wire (Item 2470) or 16 gauge Sterling
Silver 1/2 hard round wire (Item 2469)
• 22 gauge Sterling Silver 1/2 hard round wire (Item 1014)
• 8mm Swarovski Crystal Pearls or Round Beads
• 2.5mm Round Sterling Silver Beads (Item 2598)
• Sterling Silver Clasp (Item 0339 or Item 0020)
• Fine Sterling Silver Chain (optional) (Item 2610)

Jewelry Making -- How to Connect Jewelry Wire Components with a

Wrapped Bead Link
The wrapped bead link is the jewelry making component shown at right. This link is one of
the more important links for connecting jewelry wire components, other wrapped beads
links, or segments of commercial chain. Simplified instructions for making this link can be
found here. Better, more detailed instructions are provided in our online book on jewelry
making called "Wire Design Basics".

The following paragraphs provide a few jewelry making tips that I hope will help those who aren't satisfied with
their wrapped loops. These jewelry making tips provide amplification to the instructions provided above.

1. 22G or 24G wire are easier to use in making wrapped loops than 18G or 20G. In addition, while you should
practice this skill with inexpensive copper wire, you will probably find that soft wire, like copper practice wire, is
harder to use in making wrapped loops than is 1/2 hard wire.

2. When you are trying to perfect this technique, use larger loops. It is easier to be successful when making a
wrapped loop when the loop is larger.

3. Try to keep the jewelry wire tail that you are wrapping perpendicular to the wire inside the bead as you wrap.
When the wire gets at an angle to the wire inside the bead, you will notice gaps between the wraps.

4. When wrapping, it is best to hold the loop that you make with chain nose or bent chain nose pliers while you
wrap the wire. This helps to retain the shape of the loop (keeps it from distorting out of round) and helps to stabilize
the piece as you wrap.

5. As you are learning this jewelry skill allow yourself more wire in the wire tail that you wrap around the wire
segment inside the bead. Instead of starting with a bend 1 inch from the end, make the initial bend 1 1/4 or 1 1/2
inch from the end of the wire. This will mean that you cut off more excess jewelry wire, but while you are
perfecting this skill, you will find it easier if you have a little more wire to work with.

6. One final jewelry technique to try is to push the wire tail that you are wrapping with your fingers close to the wire
you are wrapping around. This may make it easier to control the wrap and help to keep the wire perpendicular.

2Tier Earrings

The earrings shown at right are made from three wire components made
on the WigJig Centaur or Cyclops plus a modified figure 8 connector.
For the purposes of these instructions the three wire components will be
called top component, the 3 loop component and the five loop
component.

In a later page in this series, we will show a pattern for making these
earrings on the WigJig Delphi.

These earrings are relatively easy to make and are considered an

advanced beginner's jewelry making project.

Our professional jewelry critic (Suzanne Helwig) ;-) believes that this
earring design is one of our best designs. She has already placed her
order for these earrings for her coming birthday. Hopefully, you will
like them too.
Jewelry Supplies: Tools Required:

• Sixteen inches of 20 gauge wire preferably 1/2 hard • Round Nose Pliers
• Twelve inches of 22 gauge wire preferable 1/2 hard • Flush Cutter
• Eighteen 4mm beads • Bent Chain Nose Pliers (2)
• Fourteen 1 1/2 inch head pins • WigJig Delphi, Cyclops, Centaur, Olympus,
 • One pair commercial ear wire finding Electra or Olympus-Lite
• Nylon Jaw Pliers (recommended)
• Fine Step Jaw Pliers (recommended)

• 45 minutes of free time

Jewelry Making Skills Required:

• Use of a WigJig to make wire components.

• Ability to make the wrapped bead link to connect wire components.
• Ability to make a bead dangle using a head pin and beads.

• Ability to open and close loops to connect wire components.

The three wire components used to make the body of these earrings are shown at right. We
also need a modified figure 8 connector and an ear wire finding to complete these earrings.
Our instructions for making this jewelry item begin with the top wire component. On page 3
we will provide the instructions for the 3 loop wire component and for how to connect the 3
loop component to the top wire component. On page 4 we provide instructions for the 5
loop wire component and on page 6 we provide instructions for assembling the earrings
including the modified figure 8 connector and the ear wire finding.

Step 1: Cut and make a loop in one end of a piece of 20 gauge wire 2 inches long. 1/2 hard
wire is preferred.

Step 2: Straighten this wire.

Step 3: Place pegs 1 and 2 into your WigJig Cyclops or Centaur as shown at right. Put the
initial loop on peg 1 and wrap the wire around peg 2 1-3/4 times so that it rests against the
hole where peg 3 would go.

Step 4: Now add peg 3 and wrap the wire around this peg.

Step 5: Remove the wire from the jig and cut the excess wire. Close the loop made around peg 3 with your bent
chain nose pliers.

Step 6: Now using your round nose pliers convert both loops in the top wire component into "eye" loops as shown
at the bottom here.

Step 7: Using your bent chain nose pliers, one at a time grasp the loops at the bottom of this wire component and
twist them 90 degrees. When completed it should appear as shown below, right.
 Step 5 Step 6 Step 7

Step 8: Cut and make a loop in one end of a piece of 20 gauge wire 1-1/2 inches long.

Step 9: Straighten this wire using your nylon jaw pliers.

Step 10: Position pegs 1 and 2 in your jig as shown at right. Place the initial loop on peg 1 and
wrap the wire around peg 2 so that it rests against the hole for peg 3.

Step 11: Now add peg 3 and wrap the wire around this peg.

Step 12: Remove the wire from the jig and cut the excess wire. Now using your bent chain nose
pliers, close the loop made on peg 3.

Step 13: Now we need to connect the top wire component to the 3 Loop wire component. First
open one of the bottom loops in the Top Wire Component using your bent chain nose pliers and
insert the corresponding loop from the 3 Loop wire component. Then on the opposite side, open
both the loop in the Top Wire Component and the loop in the 3 Loop wire component and
connect these two loops. Once the wire is in position, close both loops. At this point the two
wire components should appear as shown at right.

Now we need to make the 5 Loop wire component.

Step 14: Cut a piece of 20 gauge wire 3 inches long. Make a loop in one end of the wire.

Step 15: Straighten the wire using your nylon jaw pliers.

Step 16: Place pegs 1 and 2 in your jig as shown at right. Place your initial loop on peg 1
and wrap the wire around peg 2 so that it rests against the hole for peg 3.

Step 17: Remove the wire from the jig and add peg three. Place the initial loop on peg three and wrap the wire
around peg 1.

Step 18: Remove the wire from the jig and add peg four. Place the initial loop on the jig and wrap the wire around
peg four.

Step 19: Now add peg five and wrap the wire around peg 5.

Step 20: Remove the wire from the jig and cut the excess wire. Close the loop made around peg 5 with your bent
chain nose pliers.

In the following pages we will discuss how to assemble these earrings.

At this point, we have the Top Wire Component connected to the 3 Loop Wire
component and we need to assemble the remainder of the earring body.

Step 21: Using a 1-1/2 inch head pin and a 4mm bead, thread the bead onto the head
pin and make a bead dangle hanging from the middle loop in the 3 Loop Wire
Component. Instructions for making a bead dangle can be found here.

Step 22: Now we need to connect the 3 Loop Wire Component to the 5 Loop Wire
component using the wrapped bead link, first on one side, then on the other. Use 22 gauge
wire for making the wrapped bead link, with 4mm beads. 1/2 hard wire is best if available.
Instructions for making this wrapped bead link can be found here. Connecting the first
wrapped bead link will be relatively easy. Connecting the second, on the opposite end, will
require that you open the loop on that end of the 5 Loop Wire Component with your bent
chain nose pliers, then connect the loop in your wrapped bead link and then close the loop in
the 5 Loop Wire Component.

Step 23: Once the 3 Loop and 5 Loop Wire Components are connected, then with 5 head
pins and 5 4mm beads, hang a bead dangle from each of the loops in the 5 Loop Wire
Component, just like you did in Step 21.

Step 24: Now we need to make the modified figure 8 connector using 1 1/4" of 20 gauge
wire. Instructions for making this component can be found here. Once completed, open one
loop in the modified figure 8 connector and connect it to the top loop in the Top Wire
Component.

Step 25: Open the remaining loop in the modified figure 8 connector and connect it to your
commercial ear wire finding. This completes your 2 Tier Earrings.

In the following web page, we will provide the pattern for these earrings using our WigJig
Delphi, Olympus or Olympus-Lite jigs.
The pattern for making these earrings on the WigJig Delphi is shown at right. This same
pattern will apply to the Olympus or Olympus Lite, only the resulting earrings will be
larger. The steps for making these earrings are exactly the same as we have described
previously.

The finished earrings made on the Delphi can be viewed at right. These earrings are slightly
different than the earrings made using the round pattern of the WigJig Cyclops, Electra or
Centaur.

The obvious question is if two is good, would three be better? In the case of these
earrings the answer is maybe. You can easily add a third tier to these earrings by adding
a new wire component. This new wire component is a five loop component, but is made
on a different radius of the WigJig Centaur, Cyclops or Electra. The pattern for this
Third Tier Wire Component is shown below, right. This component is made using the
same steps that we used to make the 5 Loop Wire Component for the two tier earrings,
but requires 3-1/4" of 20 gauge wire, preferable 1/2 hard. (This 3 Tier Design does not
easily work for a jig with a square peg pattern like the WigJig Delphi or Olympus.)

Making these earrings is exactly the same as making the two tier earrings except that
you connect three bead dangles to the 5 Loop Wire Component in Step 23, then you use
22 gauge wire and wrapped bead links to connect the 5 Loop Wire Component to the
Third Tier Wire Component. The techniques for connecting these two wire components
are exactly the same as were used to connect the 3 Loop Wire Component to the 5 Loop
Wire component described in Step 22. Obviously, the 3 Tier Earrings require 10
additional 4mm beads and head pins and more 20 gauge and 22 gauge wire.
When you are ready for special earrings that will really get noticed, consider these 3 Tier
Earrings.

Materials used:

The materials used in making these earrings in gold-filled wire are as follows:

• 20 gauge gold-filled 1/2 hard round wire (Item 1012)

• 22 gauge gold-filled 1/2 hard round wire (Item 1013)
• Gold filled head pins (Thin is recommended) (Item 0069)
• 4mm Swarovski Bicone Beads or Round Beads or Pearl Beads
• Gold Filled Ear wire findings (Item 2660 or Item 0117)

The Materials used in making these earrings in Sterling Silver wire are as follows:

• 20 Gauge anti-tarnish sterling silver 1/2 hard round wire (Item 3005)
• 22 Gauge anti-tarnish sterling silver 1/2 hard round wire (Item 3007)
• Sterling Silver head pins thin (Item 0082)
• 4mm Swarovski Bicone Beads or Round Beads or Pearl Beads
• Sterling Silver Ear wire findings (Item 2659 or Item 0421)
In the prior several pages we made earrings that were shaped like an upside-down letter "V",
narrow at top and wide at the bottom. In these pages we will address a new earring design, like
the ones shown at right, that are shaped like the letter "V" in the normal orientation, wide at top
and narrow at the bottom. For this earring, the three body wire components are exactly like the
ones used to make our inverted "V" three tier earrings. The peg patterns for making these three
wire components are shown below.

The one difference in the wire components for the earrings at right is the top wire component.
This modified design requires a different top wire component. In the following web pages we
show two approaches to making this top wire component.

Begin making these earrings by making the three wire components shown below. Select any
picture to navigate to our instructions for making that component. All three components were
made on the WigJig Cyclops, Centaur or Electra. These earrings require about 18 inches of 20
gauge wire (preferably 1/2 hard) and 20 inches of 22 gauge wire (also preferably 1/2 hard). In
the earrings at right 24 4mm beads and 4 6mm beads were used along with 22 head-pins and
one pair of ear wire findings.

Large Wire Middle Wire Small Wire

Component Component Component

Here we show two different styles for making the top wire components for these earrings. For
lack of a better name, we will call the left hand style, style 1 and the right hand style, style 2.
(Our imagination is on vacation today and we can't come up with a better name.) Both of these
styles work well. With style 1, a modified figure 8 connector is required to connect the middle
loop in the wire component to your ear wire finding. With style 2, the modified figure 8
connector is optional. You can connect directly to your ear wire finding, or you can use the
connector.

Step 1: The first step in making either style is to cut a piece of 20 gauge wire about 2 1/8" long
and make a loop in one end of this piece of wire.

Step 2: While holding this loop, straighten the wire.

Step 3: Place pegs 1 and 2 on your jig and place the initial loop on the
wire segment on peg 1. Wrap the wire around peg 2 as shown at right.

Step 4: Place peg 3 in your jig and wrap the wire around this peg.

Style 1
Style 2

Step 5: Remove the wire from your jig and using your flush cutter,
cut the excess wire.

Step 6: Using your bent chain nose pliers, close the loop in the wire
component made on peg 3.

Step 7: At this point, for either style of top wire component, we need to convert the loops
made on pegs 1 and 3 into eye loops and reorient them 90 degrees. Converting these loops
into eye loops is done by grabbing the wire with the tips of your round nose pliers and
twisting as shown at the bottom of this web page.
Eye Loops
Step 8: Reorienting the loops is done by grasping the loop with your bent chain nose pliers
while holding the loop made on peg 2 with your other hand, then twisting your pliers 90
degrees. The end result will appear as shown at right. The opening in the two loops can not
been seen because it is facing to the side in a plane that can not be viewed by the camera.
This completes the top wire component.
Reoriented
Step 9: Now we need to assemble the earrings. Connect the top wire component to the
largest of the three body wire components by opening the loops in both wire components,
making the connection then closing the loops.

Step 10: Using a 4mm bead and a head pin, make a bead dangle and hang the bead dangle
from the two outside loops and the center loop.

Step 11: Using 22 gauge wire and a 4mm bead, make two wrapped bead links to connect the
two empty loops on the largest wire component to the two outside loops on the middle wire
component. You will need to open the loops on the middle wire component to help make this
connection, then close the loops once the connection has been made. At this point two of the
tree tiers are connected.

Step 12: Just like you did in step 10, we need to use head pins and 4mm beads to make bead
dangles and hang these bead dangles on the two outside loops and the center loop of the
middle wire component.

These instructions continue on the next page.

Step 13: At this point we need to connect the third tier of the earrings. Using the same
approach that you did in step 11, use wrapped bead links to connect the loops made on pegs 2
and 4 of the middle wire component to the outside loops in the small wire component. This
will require 22 gauge wire and 4mm beads.

Step 14: Using head pins and 4mm beads, connect bead dangles to the two outside loops in
the small wire component.

Step 15: Using a head pin and a 6mm bead, connect a bead dangle to the middle loop in the
small wire component. (As an alternative, you could use a 4mm bead here.)

Step 16: Using a head pin and a 6mm bead, connect a bead dangle to the middle loop in the
top wire component. Because of the limited room available here, you may not be able to use
a wrapped loop here and may need to make an open loop bead dangle as shown here.

Step 17: Now we need to make a modified figure 8 connector if we are using style 1 of the
top wire component. Use about 1 1/4" of 20 gauge wire as described here.

Step 18: Once the modified figure 8 connector is completed, use it to connect the middle
loop in the top wire component to your ear wire finding. If you are using style 2 for the top
wire component, you can connect the loop in the ear wire finding directly to the middle loop
in the top wire component.

Step 19: Use the same technique to make your second earring.

Alternatives:

The earrings shown at right are an alternative to the design we just completed. These earrings
use the top wire component from our 5 Plus 1 Beaded Chandelier Earrings to make earrings
that are really shoulder dusters. These earrings are long, and may be too long for some folks.
Instructions for making this 5 Plus 1 top wire component can be found here. Other than this
change, the process for making these earrings is identical to the steps discussed in the prior
pages.

In the following web pages we will show other alternative jewelry making designs for 2 tier
and 3 tier "V" shaped beaded chandelier earrings.
Alternative Designs (Continued):

This alternative design achieves the "V" shape in a different way. Instead of using pegs
arranged in three different radius of your jig, in this alternative, you will use one tier with five
loops, the middle tier with 4 loops and the bottom tier with three loops, all at the same radius
on your jig. In making these earrings the top wire component is made the same as is the large
wire component (with five loops). The pattern for the large wire component is shown below-
right.

The middle wire component is made with pegs 1, 2, 3 and 4 from this same pattern.

The small wire component is made with pegs 1, 2 and 3 from this same pattern.

Once you have these three wire components made, you assemble these earrings in a manner
that is similar to the technique discussed in pages 11 and 12, with one exception. For these
earrings the connections between the three tiers of wire components (large to middle and
middle to small) takes place between the outer loops in each wire component.

For these earrings, because the small wire component is larger than the same component in
the earrings shown on page 9, you can use a larger bead dangle in the middle of the small wire
component. For these earrings, I used an 8mm bead here instead of a 6mm bead.

In the following pages we will show some patterns for 2 tier "V" designs that can be made on
any WigJig jewelry making tool.

The earrings shown at right were made using the round peg pattern of the WigJig
Cyclops, Centaur or Electra. These earrings are made from four wire components
plus ear wire findings. The four wire components working down from the ear wire
finding are a modified figure 8 connector, the top wire component, the 5 loop wire
component and the three loop wire component. Making these earrings requires 16
inches of 20 gauge wire (preferably 1/2 hard), 10 inches of 22 or 24 gauge wire
(preferably 1/2 hard), 18 teardrop beads, 14 1-1/2" head pins and a pair of ear wire
findings.

For the earrings shown on the left, the modified figure 8 connector is optional. For the
earrings with the top wire component shown on the right, the modified figure 8
connector is mandatory. Instructions for making this connector can be found here.
The top wire connector connects the body of the earring to the modified figure 8
connector or optionally directly to the ear wire finding. This component is made
using the peg pattern shown at right. This top wire component for the earrings on the
left (shown above right) is made using the instructions for "Style 2" from page 10 and
11. This component for the earrings on the right was made using the instructions for
"Style 1". With the Style 2 top wire component, the modified figure 8 connector is
optional. With Style 1, the modified figure 8 connector is mandatory. As described in
Top Wire Component
pages 10 and 11, making this wire component uses 2 1/8" of 20 gauge wire and
Style 2
requires wrapping the wire around the pegs as shown at right, cutting the excess wire,
converting the loops on pegs 1 and 3 to eye loops, and finally rotating those loops 90
degrees.

The next component to make is the 5 loop wire component. This component is made
with 3 1/4" of 20 gauge wire and the peg pattern shown at right. Start by cutting your
wire segment. Then make a loop in the end of the segment. Grasp the loop and 5 Loop Component
straighten the wire segment by pulling it through the jaws of your nylon jaw pliers.
Now place pegs 1 and 2 in your jig, as shown at right, and place the initial loop on
peg 1. Wrap the wire around peg 2 until the wire tail is adjacent to the hole for peg 3.
Add peg 3 and wrap the wire around this peg, leaving the wire tail adjacent to the hole
for peg 4. Add peg 4 and wrap the wire around this peg, leaving the tail adjacent to
the hole for peg 5. Add peg 5 and wrap the wire around peg 5 as shown at right.
Remove the wire from the jig and cut the excess. Close the loop made on peg 5 with
your bent chain nose pliers.

The bottom, 3 loop wire component for the earrings shown above-right, is made using
the same steps and procedures as you used for making the 5 loop wire component,
only with three pegs and three loops. The peg patterns for making this component
uses pegs 1, 2, and 3 as shown at right.
 The bottom wire component on the earrings shown at right is made using the 5 pegs
shown below-right. This component is made with 2 1/2 inches of 20 gauge wire.
Begin by cutting and making a loop in the end of your wire, then using this loop to
straighten the wire. Start on your jig with pegs 1 and 2. Place the initial loop on peg
1 and make a loop around peg 2 leaving the wire adjacent to the hole for peg 3.
Continue by adding peg 3 and making a loop around peg 3, then adding peg 4 and 5
in turn. (When I made this component, I flipped the wire over after every loop that I
made so that the final loop ended up on peg 1. This is optional, and probably not
recommended the first time you make this component.) Once all five loops are
completed, remove the wire from your jig and cut the excess wire. Close the final
loop with your bent chain nose pliers.

At this point, we will have made the wire components necessary to assemble these
earrings and we will need to begin assembling the earrings. Instructions for making
these earrings continue on the following web page.

The first step in assembly of these earrings is to connect a bead to the middle loop of the top wire
component. This is accomplished with a head pin inserted into a bead connected as a bead dangle to the
middle loop in the top wire component. Instructions for this jewelry making technique can be found
here.

The second step in the assembly of these earrings is to connect the top wire component and the 5 loop
wire component as shown at right. (The bead is not shown in this picture.) Making this connection is
accomplished by opening the loop on one side of the top wire component and connecting that loop to
one of the end loops on the 5 loop wire component, then closing the loop in the top wire component. To
connect the opposite end of the two components, both the end loop in the 5 loop wire component and the
end loop in the top wire component must be opened. The two loops are then connected and once
connected, both loops are closed. At this point we are ready to start adding beads.

Begin with three teardrop beads and three head pins. Insert the head pins into all three beads and hang
the beads from the center and the two end loops on the 5 loop wire component.

Now we are ready to connect the 5 loop wire component to the bottom wire component. Using between
2 1/2 and 3 inches of 22 or 24 gauge wire, make a wrapped bead link, connecting the empty loop in the 5
loop wire component made on Peg 2, with one of the end loops on your bottom wire component. The
jewelry making technique for making the wrapped bead link can be found here. Once that connection is
completed, do the same thing with the remaining empty loop in the 5 loop wire component and the
opposite end of the bottom wire component.

Once these wire components are connected, take three beads and three head pins and connect the beads
to the bottom three loops in the bottom wire component using your head pins.

At this point you are ready to connect the ear wire finding to the middle loop in the top wire component
either by your modified figure 8 connector or directly. This is done by opening the loops in the modified
figure 8 connector using your bent chain nose pliers, connecting the components and closing the loops.
This completes the assembly of this earring.
Here is an alternative but similar design made on the WigJig Delphi or the square peg
pattern part of the WigJig Centaur. For these earrings we elected to use "Style 2" for
our top wire component and were able to eliminate the need for a modified figure 8
connector. For this reason, there are three wire components in these earrings plus an
ear wire finding. The three wire components are the top wire component, the 5 loop
wire component and the 3 loop wire component.

The top wire component is made using the patterns shown at right. This component is
made with about 2 inches of 20 gauge wire. The steps in making this wire component
are the same as the steps that we described previously. Simply stated they are cut the
wire, make a loop, straighten the wire, position your pegs on the jig, wrap the wire
around the pegs, remove the wire from the jig, cut the excess wire, close the final
Top Wire Component
loop, convert the initial and final loops to eye loops and finally to rotate the initial and
final loops 90 degrees. The finished wire component will appear as shown at right.

The peg patterns for the 3 loop and 5 loop wire components are shown at right. The 3
loop component uses 1 3/4" of 20 gauge wire and the 5 loop wire component uses 3
1/4" of 20 gauge wire. Remember that when you are making a multi-peg pattern, start
with just two pegs and add pegs as you go. After wrapping the wire around the pegs
as shown, remove from the jig, cut the excess and close the final loop with your bent
chain nose pliers.

Assembly of these earrings follows the same steps as described in pages 18 and 19
with the one exception in that the top wire component is connected directly to the ear
wire finding. There is no modified figure 8 connector required.
In the following web page, we will describe another alternative design for similar 2 Tiered V Shaped Chandelier
Earrings that will also use the square peg pattern of the WigJig Delphi or the WigJig Centaur.

This earring design combines the V Shaped Wire Component from our Chandelier
Earrings with the Style 2 Top Wire Component and the 5 Loop Bottom Wire
Component shown on page 17. These earrings can be made with or without the
modified figure 8 connector. The earrings at right have this connector.

The earrings at right were made using 18 gauge wire instead of the 20 gauge wire
used in our prior patterns.

The top wire component is made using the peg pattern shown at right and using the
steps described in this section previously.

The V shaped wire component is made using the peg pattern at right. Remember to
start with just 2 pegs and add a peg as you need it as you make this wire component.
Instructions for making this component can be found here.
The 5 loop bottom wire component is made as described in page 17.

The assembly of these earrings is performed as described in pages 18 and 19.

We have described a lot of options for making multi-tier chandelier earrings. We have options using 4mm beads and
other options using 6mm beads. We have options using 18 gauge wire for the body components and other options
that used 20 gauge wire for the body components. We show many different styles of top wire components used to
connect the body of the earring to the ear wire finding, and many style of body components. Some of the patterns
we used required a jig with a round peg pattern, some of the patterns required a jig with a square peg pattern. There
are many more combinations that could be explored. For now, we are going to move on away from tiered earrings
and begin to investigate ways to make a complimentary yoke as a necklace component. This new necklace project
will be coming soon!
 Jewelry Making -- How to Make a Bead Dangle
The first question is exactly what is a bead dangle and why do I need to know how to make one? Normally, a bead
dangle is one or more beads held in place by jewelry wire, with a loop at one end so that the bead dangle can hang
from that loop. Bead dangles can be an important jewelry making component of earrings or necklaces. Select here
to view pictures of a bead dangle.

A bead dangle is an important jewelry making component, frequently made using a jewelry finding called a head-
pin. A head-pin is a piece of metal with a "head" like the head of a pin on one end and a straight wire tail usually
between 1 and 3" long. Unlike a regular straight pin, the head pin is not sharp on the end opposite the "head", but
ends in a flat or flush cut end. The "head" of the head pin holds the beads in place, the wire tail of the head pin is
used to make the loop on the opposite end. You can view a selection of head pins here.

A bead dangle is made by sliding one or more beads onto the head pin. With the head pin held vertically, with the
head on the bottom and the wire tail point up, push the beads to the bottom against the head of the head pin and
grasp the wire tail just above the beads with your chain nose or bent chain nose pliers. Then bend the wire to an
angle of about 80 degrees. Now grasp the wire tail near this bend with your round nose pliers and make an eye loop
in the wire. Visit here to see how to make this loop and cut the wire. Another approach to making this loop is to
make a wrapped loop instead of a simple eye loop. This is a more advanced technique and is described in detail in
our online book on jewelry making called "Wire Design Basics".
 3D Spiral
3 Loop
4 Dangle Earrings
5 Plus 1 Earrings
8 Dangle Earrings
Amethyst Cube
Angular Curves
Aquarium & Beaded Bell
Aqua Sampler
Autumn Splendor
Band Ring
Beads, Celtic Knots, and Chains
Beaded Angular S-Link
Beaded Chain
Beaded Hearts
Beaded Lace Dangle
Beaded S-Link
Beaded Spiral
Bead Nests
Beads-in-Wire
Beads Wrapped in Wire
Black Laced with Purple
Blue Hearts
Bottoms Up Yoke Necklace
Box Links
Bracelets with Pizzaz
Caribbean Blue
Celtic Collage
Celtic Knot Earrings
Celtic Lace
Celtic Wire Bead Necklace
Chain Brclt
Chandelier Earrings
Classic Hoop
Classic Pearls
Cloisonn 鼯 a>
Cobra's Lair
Coiled Bracelet & Earrings
Coiled Links
Confetti
Copperhead
Cross Link Bracelet
Cuff Bracelet
Curls & Swirls
Curvaceous
Diamond Centerpiece
Diamond Chandelier Earrings
Deluxe Duplex
Diamond Vines
Double Diamonds
Donut Your "Y"
Duplex Bracelet
Ear Dangle
Chain Bracelet
Combos
Ear Wires
 Elegant Chaos
Figure 8 Filigree Necklace Set
Fish Tail
Five-Loop Pendant Enhancer
Flemish Spiral
Four Leaf Clover
Four Plus 1 Earrings
Frosted Y
Funky 8
Funky Curves
Funky Woven Bracelet with Spirals
Hairpin Curves
Hang Loops
Harlequin
Hemp 'n Ovals
Hooks & Catches
Hoops Hoops Hoops
In the Pink
Ivy Link Choker
Jeweled Memories
Knots Squared
Large Bead Choker
Lavender Teardrops
Lazy Curves
Leather - Bali Style
Lilli's Drop
Lilli's Loops
Loops & Pearls
Loop-the-Loop
Loopy L Necklace
Loopy Yoke
Magical Nuggets
Mesh Link Bracelet
Modern Knots
One Piece Chandelier
Paddy's Delight
Pearl Bracelet & Earrings Set
Pearl & WigJig
Pentagon Choker
Petite Dangle
Purple & Black Circles
Purple Fantasy
Purple Knitted Chains
Purple Seed Rope
Queen of Clubs Earrings
Red & Black Wire Bead Necklace
Red & Silver Waves
Remembrance
Ribbon Coils Link
Ribboned
Round Links
Scepter Link
Seafoam Choker
Sideways 8
SideWinders
Simple Beaded
 Small Chandelier
Spiral Diamond
Spirals & Stones
Square Earrings
Starburst
Sun Pendant with Waves Links
Swans
Swirly 8 Link Necklace
Three-for-One
Three Square
Tie-A-Bow
Tiny Winders
Triangles
Triangular Rose
Triple Curves
Tucson
Turquoise Bib
Turquoise SideWinders
Twenty Earring Jacket Designs
Twisted 8 Link
Twisted Wire Pendants
Vee Links
W Chandelier
Wavy Yoke
Whimsical
Wishbone
Wrap Around Bracelet
Wrapped Link
Wire Chandelier
Yoke Link Choker
Yokes and More Yokes

Todo sacado de www.wigjig.com

MI WIGJIG CASERO
Realizado con metacrilato, se trata de 2 placas que se ajustan con 2 tornillos para meter y sacar los tornillos
que servirán de base para dar forma al alambre

El wigjig alto lleva un agujero en sus patas para insertar un entorchador

Si haceis clic en sus fotos vereis una ampliación.

Podeis realizar uno imprimiendo la plantilla que se proporciona en formato pdf junto a los modelos de wigjig.
enfilador rápido: usamos este aparato para enfilar rapidamente los abalorios
 PARA QUE SIRVE

Como su nombre indica para enfilar rapidamente, ahorra estar metiendo los abalorios de uno en uno pues es
como si se enfilaran todos solos

ACONSEJADO PARA

Esta es una herramienta útil para aquellos que hacen collares de enfilado simple o múltiple que conste solo
de abalorios o aquellos que realizan collares de ganchillo ya que hay que enfilar varios metros de ellos

COMPONENTES

Fundamentalmente es un cuenco con un apoyo en el centro

FORMA DE USO

Los abalorios se introducen en el cuenco, con una mano sostienes el cabo del hilo por donde se insertarán
los abalorios y con la otra mano coges el apoyo del centro y le das vueltas en sentido contrario a la direccion
donde hayas puesto el cabo. Cuando hayas insertado unos cuantos abalorios sacas el cabo del cuenco y
deslizas los abalorios dejando libre de nuevo el inicio del cabo. Luego vuelves a introducirlo en el cuenco y
haces lo mismo

Aquí podeis ver una animación de su funcionamiento

FABRICACION DE UNO CASERO

Con un cuenco de plástico (de los helados, margarina...) y un palito redondo podéis fabricar uno vosotros
mismos.

Pon el cuenco boca abajo y con un cutter o cuchillo haz un pequeño corte, mete unas tijeras en ese hueco y
ve girándolas haciendo que se coman el plástico haciendo asi un agujero redondo. Ve probando el palo y
métele cuando el tamaño del agujero sea el adecuado (es mejor tener que empujarle un poco, si te pasas
tiene peor arreglo), introducele desde abajo. Si quieres asegurarlo pon pegamento, yo no le he puesto pq no
lo veo necesario.

Ahora tan solo tienes que rellenarle con abalorios e insertar la aguja o alambre con el que vas a enfilar. Con
la otra mano gira el palo en sentido contrario, esto hara que todo el cuenco se mueva y vayan insertandose
los abalorios en el hilo (la punta del hilo siempre quieta comienza poniendola en el fondo y ve subiendo un
poco). Ve deslizando los abalorios hacia atrás cuando tengas unos cuantos metidos y vuelve a introducir el
cabo del hilo en el fondo del cuenco.

MODELOS
 FOTOS TOMADAS DE ESTOS LINKS

• http://kimberlychapman.com/crafts/beadspinner.html (muestra uno casero)

• http://www.beadspinnerlady.com/
• http://www.blessedbeads.com/misc.htm

PLANTILLAS
MARGARITAS:
 • margarita simple

• margarita doble centro

• margarita doble

• margarita triple

TRIANGULOS

RED

• pequeña
• grande

PUNTADAS:

• peyote
• comanche
 • en circulos

PROGRAMAS PARA DISEÑAR TUS PROPIOS

PROYECTOS
Fundamentalmente son para tejidos y para realizar dibujos para luego aplicar las puntadas
para realizarlos

EASY BEAD PATTERNS

Aquí podrás crear online tus propios esquemas de tejido de peyote, cuadrado o comanche.
Puedes crear la base del esquema o seleccionar una imagen de tu ordenador y ellos te lo
transforman gratuitamente en un momento

BEAD DESIGNER 1.0 (beta)

Es gratuito

Desde esta web te lo puedes bajar. Pulsa aqui para bajarte el programa y aqui para leer unas
instrucciones

THE BEAD CELLAR

GRAPH PAPER PRINTER

BEAD-WIZARD

BEAD CREATOR

Los 4 ultimos les añado para que sepais que hay mas pero no son gratuitos.

Con los programas de esquemas de punto de cruz tambien podeis crear vuestros patrones de
la puntada cuadrada

EXPOSITORES Y MUESTRARIOS
EXPOSITORES DE METACRILATO PARA PENDIENTES- Precio: 4,50
abalorios@ono.com
MUESTRARIO MANTA (por vicky)
MUESTRARIO DE GIRLPOWER EN TELA Y CARTON

Ilargi nos dio la idea tambien de pinchar nuestros pendientes en un pañuelo y llevarlo en el
bolso para mostrarlo en cualquier ocasion, de momento no hay foto

JOYERO DE LUCIA
COLOCACION DE COLLARES CONO, CORCHERA Y BUSTO
(lokilla,, maribel, raloida)
COLOCACION DE PULSERAS EN CARTON (leibardi)

PRESENTACION CON CARTON

(lylit, lluna's)

COLOCACION EN CORCHERA
(aerismaud)
COLOCACION DE ANILLOS, EN TELA, CONOS Y ROLLOS DE PAPEL
(kathy, agosto,kantabra, ani)

ANILLOS

ANILLO DE FLORES