Documentos de Académico
Documentos de Profesional
Documentos de Cultura
El Rincon Del Viajero
El Rincon Del Viajero
Traveller’s Corner
El río escultor
The river as sculptor
CVNEWS 16
El barco, que une Cofrentes Ploughing the waters between
con Cortes de Pallás, avanza Cofrentes and Cortes de Pallás,
lentamente sobre el agua the boat slowly glides through
esmeralda del remansado the emerald waters of the
Júcar y arrastra consigo el dammed Júcar, cleaving
reflejo de las altas murallas through the reflections of the
ocres y negras, que caen en towering ochre and black
picado sobre el río escultor, que bluffs carved by the sculpting
deja allí su bravura y pasa a hand of the river before con-
ceñir un suave recorrido. Las tinuing its smooth way among
profundas aguas del Júcar gentler landscapes. The deep
son el escenario de una ruta waters of the Júcar form a
de casi treinta kilómetros, route almost 30 kilometres
que ofrece todo el espectáculo long, offering spectacular
de la naturaleza y la vida de views of nature and life in a
una sierra esculpida con tiem- mountain range shaped over
po. Los Cañones del Júcar y the centuries. Every day, boats
el Sinoa son los dos barcos que from the Los Cañones del
recorren a diario esa ruta flu- Júcar and Sinoa companies
vial, la única de la Comunitat cruise the length of this, the
Valenciana. Region of Valencia’s only river
route.
CVNEWS 17
El Rincón del Viajero
Traveller’s Corner
CVNEWS 18
bilidades turísticas que en otros luga-
res del recorrido serían inviables.
El Desfiladero de Cortes comprende
el tramo entre el Ral y el núcleo de
Cortes que es la parte del río donde las
paredes del cañón del Júcar tienen la
mayor verticalidad de todo el recorrido
y alcanzan impresionantes alturas.
El barco avanza mientras el sol ilu-
mina las crestas de las montañas y llega
hasta la preciosa isla central, rodeada
de aguas tan calmadas que parecen
hechas de espejo y en las que nadan tran-
quilos lucios y black bass mientras que
algunos pescadores saludan desde las
riberas el paso del barco.
Cerca de esta isla se encontraban anti-
guamente los Baños del Cabet, un
manantial de aguas medicinales, indi-
cado para problemas dermatológicos y
al que acudían las gentes de Cofrentes
y Cortes de Pallás. El recorrido se hacía
a pie, por una senda que comunicaba
las dos poblaciones. Este camino dis-
curría a lo largo de un canal, que ser-
vía para llevar las aguas, del embalse de
Embarcaderos a la central Hidroeléctrica
de Rambla Seca. Todo eso en la actua-
lidad está bajo las aguas del embalse Ángeles, de estilo barroco, cuya
aunque aún se pueden ver algunos tra- construcción se inició en 1775. Su LUCIOS Y BLACK BASS
mos del camino. Una de las señales única nave, en la que destaca el retablo PIKE AND BLACK BASS
que indican por donde pasaba el cami- de estilo barroco tardío, está cubierta con
no son los carteles pintados en la roca bóveda de cañón y lunetos.
con el crédito de Reserva Nacional de La Casa del Barón, un palacete Este embalse navegable fue inau- This navigable reservoir was inau-
Caza. barroco de finales del siglo XVIII que se gurado en el año 1983 para alma- gurated in 1983 to store the waters
ubica en la misma plaza del pueblo, es cenar aguas del río Júcar y una de of the river Júcar, and one of its strik-
....................................................... otra de las visitas obligadas en Cortes. sus características es la escasa ing features is that it barely varies
LA CEMENTERA Esta vivienda fue la residencia de los variación del volumen de agua rete- in water level, since the water is
....................................................... barones de Cortes de Pallás y aún nido por la presa de Cortes, ya que retained for producing hydroelectric
Desde el barco es visible también una conserva encima de la puerta de entrada su utilidad principal es la produc- energy. This has enabled people to
antigua cementera, un conjunto indus- el escudo de la familia. ción de energía eléctrica. Por ello, sail on the reservoir, with the appro-
trial construido a principios del siglo XX El puente sobre el embalse de Cortes ha sido posible la navegación por el priate safety precautions and respect
para suministrar material a la empresa de Pallás es una obra de ingeniería, embalse, con las adecuadas con- for the environment as stipulated by
entonces Hidroeléctrica, en la cons- que se eleva sobre el nivel del lecho 111 diciones de seguridad y respeto al the Confederación Hidrográfica del
trucción de la Central de Cortes de metros, su longitud es de 281 metros medio ambiente, exigidas por la Júcar.
Pallás en Rambla Seca. Esta fábrica y se adentra en el túnel excavado en la Confederación Hidrográfica del Along the whole length of the
de cemento estaba acondicionada para roca más de 200 metros. Júcar. route, between the sheer cliffs and
producir doce mil toneladas y en la El barco regresa desde Cortes casi A lo largo del recorrido, entre los from the small beaches formed on
actualidad se pueden ver los restos de dos horas después de su salida y atraca vertiginosos acantilados y las peque- the banks of the reservoir, game
las diferentes estructuras destinadas a de nuevo en el embarcadero de Cofrentes, ñas playas formadas en la ribera del fishing is a popular pastime thanks
la producción de cemento, algunas en tras recorrer un paraje frondoso, ocre y embalse, la práctica de la pesca to a supervised population of black
muy buen estado de conservación. esmeralda. Los Cañones del Júcar vuelve deportiva es habitual gracias a una bass. This reservoir is considered to
Ocupa una vasta superficie y sus muros al lugar de donde salió rodeado de un mantenida población de black bass. be one of the best in the whole of
en forma de talud se adaptan al relie- paisaje de piedras eternas y aguas El embalse se considera como uno Spain for fishing because of its
ve inclinado. Aún hoy se aprecian en buena verdes, cuya belleza no se puede esquivar de los mejores de España para prac- abundant population of dace, which
medida las galerías, pasos de conduc- y que cuando se ve una vez, ya no se ticar su pesca ya que cuenta con una feed the pike and black bass stocks.
ción y las chimeneas. olvida. abundante población de alburno, con
el que se mantienen lucios y black
....................................................... ....................................................... bass.
CORTES DE PALLÁS COFRENTES, BETWEEN THE RIVERS
....................................................... JÚCAR AND CABRIEL
....................................................... Iron Bridge, the Era del Chulo Lookout landscapes only visible from the water.
Cortes se encuentra a 423 metros sobre and the Cerro de Agras Volcano all make It is Pedro who tells the many stories and
el nivel del mar. Es un pueblo pequeño At the confluence of the rivers Júcar and for an interesting tourist trail at Cofrentes, legends that have been woven around
pero pintoresco y tranquilo y su trazado Cabriel stands Cofrentes, a town that either starting or finishing at the Júcar the mysterious, steep and craggy Muela
callejero es genuinamente medieval e sprang up at the feet of a mediaeval castle jetty. de Cortes over the course of the centuries.
islámico, adaptado a la orografía del built on the remains of another castle During the two-hour trip, Pedro also
terreno donde se halla enclavado. Desde originally constructed by the Moors. ....................................................... informs passengers of the most interesting
el siglo VIII sus viviendas han sabido The town’s Arab influence is also visible THE BANKS OF THE JÚCAR details concerning the two towns by the
mantener el modelo constructivo típico in the intricate layout of its streets. ....................................................... reservoir.
popular con ligeras variaciones, ya que Forever surrounded by water, the Slowly, very slowly, the boat leaves
han adaptado la altura de las casas al town has always lived by water and for David, owner of Los Cañones del Júcar, the jetty and the old reservoir in its
tortuoso dibujo de las estrechas calles water, as evidenced by its rivers, market and crew members, Paco and Pedro, greet wake. Built in 1953 to store the waters
y al desnivel del terreno. gardens, salt flats, waterfalls and, of course, passengers at the Cofrentes jetty. of the Júcar and the Cabriel, the reser-
Como lugares de interés para visitar, the Hervideros de Cofrentes spa. Comfortably seating up to 60 passen- voir used to channel water to the Rambla
además del conjunto del casco urbano, The castle, the San José Parish gers, the boat provides those on board Seca hydroelectric power station with-
está la Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de los Church, the Soledad Hermitage, the with the opportunity to behold and enjoy in the limits of the town of Cortes de Pallás,
CVNEWS 19
El Rincón del Viajero
Traveller’s Corner
taking advantage of the 92-metre drop Like a living wall, the mountain range two end towers can still be seen today. A and Cortes de Pallás. Visitors would
between the Embarcaderos Reservoir carved out by the water lends the defensive moat protects at the eastern flank. arrive on foot, via a path that linked the
and the plant. The reservoir was rendered landscape an abrupt but strangely non- Despite being overtly Moorish, the castle two towns. This path ran alongside a
obsolete in the 1980s with the con- threatening look. The secret is due to its also has Gothic elements, and Christian channel that used to direct water from
struction of the Cortes de Pallás hydro- vegetation, which flourishes on the and aristocratic coats of arms still remain the Embarcaderos Reservoir to the
electric complex, meaning that the vertiginous cliff faces as well as on the above the entries. Given its layout, it is Rambla Seca hydroelectric plant. All of
Embarcaderos Reservoir is no longer gentler slopes. So spectacular is this clear that the site served a dual purpose, this is now underwater, although some
used. Today, the reservoir forms the tail vegetation, so changeable its beauty, both defensive and residential. parts of the path can still be seen today,
end of the Cortes Reservoir. that in autumn it is tinged with stunning The castle acquired great importance as signalled by the paintings on the rock
shades of ochre while in spring it bursts during the 17th century, when terrible courtesy of the national hunting reserve.
forth in many colours. fighting around La Muela de Cortes
....................................................... ended in the defeat of the Moors.
MUELA DE CORTES Following the victory of the royal Spanish .......................................................
....................................................... ....................................................... armies in1609, the Moors were forced THE CEMENT FACTORY
CHIREL CASTLE to abandon their homes and even Spanish .......................................................
As the boat sails towards the Cañón del ....................................................... territory.
Júcar, visitors can contemplate the From the boat, passengers can see an
breathtaking scenery that unfolds below Along the left bank of the reservoir old cement works. This industrial plant
the ever-watchful Muela de Cortes outcrop. between El Puntal de Sácaras and El Ral ....................................................... was built in the early 20th century to supply
To starboard, La Muela soars straight out juts the Chirel massif, atop which lie the THE ISLAND AND BATHS OF EL CABET material to Hidroeléctrica, the company
of the water to a height of over 400 m. remains of the castle. Its style dates ....................................................... that was constructing the Cortes de
Nature is at its purest here on the predominantly back to the 15th century, Pallás plant at Rambla Seca. The factory
mismatched banks of the river Júcar, on although its origins are earlier. During the Along the right-hand bank of the reservoir was equipped to produce 12,000 tonnes
its islands and on its beaches populated Middle Ages, traffic along the Júcar was runs a stretch of the GR-7 long-distance of cement, and the remains of the various
by pine trees, kermes oaks, palmettos, controlled from here, since the boundary hiking trail. cement-producing structures can still
rosemary and lavender, among which between the kingdoms of Castile and Very near by is part of the El Ral gully be seen today, several of which are in very
the mountain goats and mouflon gambol. Valencia lay right here in the valley of submerged beneath the waters. It is a good condition. The plant covers a vast
La Muela de Cortes has been a national Cofrentes. wide stretch where neither the river nor area, and its walls hug the slopes. The
hunting reserve since 1973, so animals Since south of the castle there is a the gully are enclosed, offering visitors galleries, transportation tracks and
abound on its rocky slopes. Visitors may cliff over 300 m high, access is gained opportunities for tourism on both shores chimneys are still mostly visible.
also spot birds such as the fish eagle, via the north face, where the remains of that would be impossible at many other
mallard and heron. a double wall, a central watchtower and points along the route.
The Cortes Gorge covers the stretch .......................................................
between El Ral and the town of Cortes, CORTES DE PALLÁS
Entre los vertiginosos acantilados y en las and it is here that the walls of the Júcar .......................................................
canyon are at their most vertical, reaching
pequeñas playas formadas en la ribera del impressive heights. Cortes is a small but picturesque and
embalse, la práctica de la pesca deportiva es As the boat advances and the sun
illuminates the mountain tops, visitors
peaceful town 423 metres above sea
level. Its street plan is genuinely mediaeval
habitual reach the stunning central island, where and Islamic, adapted to the lie of the land.
the waters are so calm that the surface Since the 8th century, houses in the town
is like a mirror. Here, pike and black bass have followed a popular typical construction
Between the sheer cliffs and from the small swim unconcerned while anglers wave model, with slight variations, adapting
from the shore. the height of the houses to the path of
beaches formed on the banks of the reservoir, Near the island used to stand the Cabet the narrow, twisting streets and the
Baths, a source of medicinal waters uneven terrain.
game fishing is a popular pastime prescribed for skin complaints, which used As well as the town centre, places of
to be visited by the people of Cofrentes interest to visitors include the Nuestra
CVNEWS 20
Señora de los Ángeles church, a baroque 111 metres and spans 281 metres before CÓMO LLEGAR
construction begun in 1775. Its single entering a tunnel over 200 metres long HOW TO GET THERE
nave with late baroque altarpiece is excavated from the rock.
covered by a barrel vault. The boat returns from Cortes almost
A CORTES DE PALLAS TO CORTES DE PALLAS
On the same square stands the Casa two hours after it set off, and once again
Por la Autovia A-3 Valencia-Madrid, toma- Once on the A-3 Valencia-Madrid motor-
del Barón, a late 18th century baroque stops at Cofrentes following its journey mos la salida 322 VP-3031 antes de lle- way, take exit 332 VP-3031 before you
mansion that is another of the must-sees through the leafy emerald and ochre gar a Buñol, y tomamos la CV-428 con get to Buñol and join the CV-428 head-
in Cortes. This residence was home to landscape. The Los Cañones del Júcar direccion a Macastre, unos kilometros ing towards Macastre. Just a few kilome-
the barons of Cortes de Pallás, and a family boat returns to whence it started, despues de dejar esta poblacion continuamos tres after having reached the town of
coat of arms can still be seen over the surrounded by eternal stones and green por la CV-425 que sin dejarla nos lleva- Macastre, continue along the CV-425 that
front entrance. waters, whose beauty cannot be denied ra a la poblacion de Cortes de Pallás. will take you straight to Cortes de Pallas.
The bridge over the Cortes de Pallás and which, once seen, can never be
A COFRENTES TO COFRENTES
reservoir is a work of engineering that rises forgotten. Si viene por la Autovia A-3 Valencia- If your coming from the A-3 Valencia-
Madrid, tomamos la salida 291, dirección Madrid motorway, take exit 291 and head
a Almansa tomaremos la N-330 y sin towards Almansa. Then join the N-330 which
dejarla pasaremos por la poblacion de will take you straight to the town of
Cofrentes. Cofrentes.
Si viene por la Autovia A-31 Madrid- If your coming from the A-31 Madrid-
Alicante, tomamos la salida 588 direccion Alicante motorway, take exit 588 and
Ayora-Requena por la N-330, y sin dejar- head towards Ayora-Requena. Then joint
la pasaremos por la poblacion de Cofrentes. the N-330 which Hill take you straight to
the town of Cofrentes.
[i]
INFORMACIÓN:
INFORMATION:
CVNEWS 21
El Rincón del Viajero
Traveller’s Corner
VISITAMOS:
LET’S VISIT:
CVNEWS 22