Antiquing — part one
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WESTART OUR ANTIQUING JOURNEY with fully
varnished chery-red violin. Rather than building up all the
finished results like a painting, in a mostly additive fashion,
‘we choose to use a more subtractive approach to recreating
the actual proces of wear and tear.
‘After an appropriate amount of age’ and wear has been
auded tothe woodwork, the instrument is varnished as ifnew.
discal
Cur varnish is made of rosin and oil and is designed to be
appropriately britleand alcohol-sensitive. The rosin is cooked
anti the desired colouris obtained. It is then mixed in alow oi
ratio and cooked briefly to keep the varnish from being 10 stony
Strong, tough varnish will not respond well to ths proces,
‘We are not copying a specific violin but draw our inspiration
from many fine old examples.
yg Craquelure, or cracking of the varnish, is done to
the whole instrument using a protein and water-based
solution (using gum arabic, hide glue, egg white or walnut
crystals, for example)
Bg We spray the solution on with ana which provides
very good control over the amount applied and doesnt
create application lines. In genera, it is best to keep the inital
layer as thin as possible, otherwise the crackle can be too large
‘ter spraying a small area, its then heated with a hai dyer
The protein layer dries and shrinks, causing the now-softened
varnish underneath to be pulled. If pulle j a little it will look
Brizaed, wrinkled or leathery f pulled a Il create sues,
Or cracking of the varnish layer.eee ee keaton!
‘We use an assortment of oil pigments forthe first layer of
Patina. They are thinned with cooked linseed oil to control
Pigment concentration. A variety of colours ~ such as blacks,
browns, greens, greys — will help give complexity to the patina
The pigments are rubbed on and forced into the texture:
alittle too much at this point is allright. We look for a variety
of pigment concentration
We use smooth paper to remove excess pigment fro
the surface. This cleans the surface but leaves pigment in
the low-lying texture
can easily be removed with paper
towels if too much is applied and then reworked.
1 ofthe cracks with patina and not othe
we let the vi
i we create scratches and densely on, some wl get
6 filled with varnish during the shading process. Others
are filed with pigments tron. This creates scratches and
dents of erent colours.»
ncewcess nara 69‘On many olf Cremonese violins it looks ik the varnish Nas
BB sip ott We use packing tape to reproduce the majority
‘ofthis effect. Tis shea nftvenced by the typeof varnish used
and overt brite
(Qough vamih wil not release easily fa
‘amish can release too eas). By pressing tape agains the varnish
and paling away. can be removed in large or small quantities
gpg <0 moo the aah shading and ning with
alcohol hence the need fr a varnish that responds
ty to alcohol. By starting on areas that wil end up being
ed clean, we eta fee or the way the varnish is responding
longed lengths of time will
ly result the whole varnish layer coming of at once. This
fan be avoided by working on one area very quickly and then
ck once it has died. Tying to get the
ck rather than gradually is asking for trouble,
eee
‘The previous steps of denting and tooling should now hel,
asthe tape will pull these areas away much more easly Its goog
towork this step over the whole instrument, and not just the
typical wea ie. tf one area of the instrument has considerable
‘Chipping the centre ofthe back, for instance), most other areas
will also have at least some chipping.
Very litle ofthe instrument will be left with a ful thickness of
varnish Rather than just shading a few spots, w a subtle
shading effect over the majority of the instrum
The overall impression of the antiquing nt should
Begin to resemble the final rest. nth
wil explain how we work with the ground, tna
do retouching and put the ial polish othe
70 wre nse sc
aia aaidioasink eaneiendiniats kentaiienednaaemnitade