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600016923R
 EXCURSION

TO THE

ISTHMUS OF TEHUANTEPEC .

L TOT
B I
I
B
WL
del
RDale
lith
Walon Hulimandel
&Wbyalton
Printed
COATZAC
RIVER
.on
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- ITLAN
MINA OALCOS
 NOTES

OF AN

EXCURSION TO THE

ISTHMUS OF TEHUANTEPEC,

IN THE REPUBLIC OF MEXICO.

By R. DALE.

LONDON :
PUBLISHED BY EFFINGHAM WILSON,
ROYAL EXCHANGE.
LIVERPOOL : ROCKLIFFE AND SON, CASTLE STREET.

1851 .

208. a. 68.
 LONDON :
PRINTED BY MYERS AND CO.,
22, TAVISTOCK STREET, COVENT GARDEN.
BL
BI
 ILLUSTRATIONS .

Mina-Titlan.... Frontispiece.
Two Views ofTuxtla

Entrance to the Laguna de Santa Anna…………….... Page 19

Entrance to the River Coatzacoalcos
Entrance to the Tonaladas
Cocoa Nut Hill Page 24

Map of part of Mexico and Central America, at the end.

 CONTENTS .

CHAPTER I.

Departure from England for Vera Cruz -Brief notice of places

seen during the Voyage - Islands of St. Thomas, Porto Rico ,
St. Domingo, Jamaica, &c.-Passage through the Gulf of
Mexico- Arrival at Vera Cruz. ..9

CHAPTER II.

Departure for the River Coatzacoalcos- Fine Coast Scenery-

Miseries of a Small Vessel in a Hot Climate- Volcanic Moun-
tain of Tuxtla- Opening on the Coast, supposed to be the
Coatzacoalcos, afterwards ascertained to be the Tonaladas-
Splendid Sunset-The Coast as far as the Laguna de Santa
Anna- Interview with the Natives at the Tonaladas- Arrival
at the Coatzacoalcos - Passage of the Bar, and description of
the River up to Mina- Titlan - The Natives, &c. ........... 16

CHAPTER III.

Description of Mina- Titlan and neighbouring Country- The

Climate- Excursion to Jaltipan- French Emigrants - Agri-
culture- Forest Scenery- Natural Productions and Articles
of Commerce ..25
viii CONTENTS.

CHAPTER IV .

Excursion to the Rio Cóachapa- The wild animals of the Isthmus

-Mahogany Cutting- Great size of the Trees- Canoes-
Excursion to the Rio Uspanapan and its ascent- Mahogany a nd
Cedar Trees -A Ride through the Woods from the Uspanapan
to the Coachapa- Abundance of Mahogany- A Night ad-
venture at Mina- Titlan - Country from the Coatzacoalcos to
the Pacific- Proposed Railway from the Atlantic to the
Pacific across the Isthmus of Tehuantepec.. .32

CHAPTER V.

Land Journey from Mina- Titlan to Vera Cruz- Rich and

Beautiful Country- Adventures on the Road- Alvarado-
Arrival at Vera Cruz, and Return to England by the way of
Jamaica, Cuba, the United States and Canada ....... 41

CHAPTER VI.

General Observations upon the Mahogany Trade of the Isthmus of

Tehuantepec, and District of Alvarado ..54
 EXCURSION

TO THE

ISTHMUS OF TEHUANTEPEC.

CHAPTER I.

Departure from England for Vera Cruz- Brief notice of places

seen during the Voyage - Islands of St. Thomas, Porto Rico,
St. Domingo, Jamaica, &c.- Passage through the Gulf of
Mexico-Arrival at Vera Cruz.

HAVING felt greatly interested in the descriptions which

had been published of the Mexican Isthmus of Tehuan-
tepec, and as it was one of the places which was spoken
of for connecting the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, by
means of a railway or ship canal, the writer of these brief
notes decided to gratify his curiosity, and at the same
time seek to benefit his health by a visit to the West
Indies, and to that little frequented part of the Gulf of
Mexico. With this intention he sailed from Southampton

on the 2nd of last March, in that most comfortable of

B
 LONDON :
PRINTED BY MYERS AND CO.,
22, TAVISTOCK STREET, COVENT GARDEN.
BL
BI
 ILLUSTRATIONS .

Mina-Titlan….. Frontispiece.
Two Views ofTuxtla

Entrance to the Laguna de Santa Anna…........ Page 19

Entrance to the River Coatzacoalcos
Entrance to the Tonaladas
Cocoa Nut Hill Page 24

Map of part of Mexico and Central America, at the end.

viii CONTENTS.

CHAPTER IV .

Excursion to the Rio Cóachapa- The wild animals of the Isthmus

-Mahogany Cutting- Great size of the Trees- Canoes-
Excursion to the Rio Uspanapan and its ascent—Mahogany a nd
Cedar Trees -A Ride through the Woods from the Uspanapan
to the Coachapa- Abundance of Mahogany- A Night ad-
venture at Mina- Titlan - Country from the Coatzacoalcos to
the Pacific- Proposed Railway from the Atlantic to the
Pacific across the Isthmus of Tehuantepec...... .32

CHAPTER V.

Land Journey from Mina- Titlan to Vera Cruz- Rich and

Beautiful Country-Adventures on the Road- Alvarado-
Arrival at Vera Cruz, and Return to England by the way of
Jamaica, Cuba, the United States and Canada ..... .41

CHAPTER VI.

General Observations upon the Mahogany Trade of the Isthmus of

Tehuantepec, and District of Alvarado ........ ..54
 EXCURSION

TO THE

ISTHMUS OF TEHUANTEPEC .

CHAPTER I.

Departure from England for Vera Cruz - Brief notice of places

seen during the Voyage-Islands of St. Thomas, Porto Rico,
St. Domingo, Jamaica, &c.- Passage through the Gulf of
Mexico- Arrival at Vera Cruz.

HAVING felt greatly interested in the descriptions which

had been published of the Mexican Isthmus of Tehuan-
tepec, and as it was one of the places which was spoken
of for connecting the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, by
means of a railway or ship canal, the writer of these brief
notes decided to gratify his curiosity, and at the same
time seek to benefit his health by a visit to the West
Indies, and to that little frequented part of the Gulf of
Mexico. With this intention he sailed from Southampton

on the 2nd of last March, in that most comfortable of

B
 10

marine conveyances, the Royal Mail Steam Packet Com-

pany's ship Trent, and aftera delightfully smooth and
tranquil voyage of sixteen days from leaving England ,
landed at the small Danish Island of St. Thomas. This
place has been made the rendezvous for the Company's
fleet of branch steamers to the West India Islands, and to
the Gulfs of Honduras and Mexico, whilst the direct line
proceeds from this Island to Chagres, where the mails for
the Pacific are delivered. The harbour of St. Thomas is

capacious and land-locked ; and as the principle of Free

Trade is here carried out to the fullest extent (goods being
admitted at little more than a nominal duty) , this, other-
wise insignificant Island , has become the resort for the
vessels of all nations, and a great mart for supplying the
West India Islands, Central America , and other States of
the Spanish Main .
At daylight on the morning of the 23rd, we proceeded
on our voyage, and at noon arrived at the Port of San
Juan, the capital of the Island of Porto Rico. This beau-
tiful possession of the Spanish Crown extends from lat.
17° 55′ tó 18° 30′ N. , and from long. 65° 40′ to 67° 20′ W.
It is about 120 miles long, and 40 miles broad, and contains
a population of nearly 360,000 persons, which is stated to
be composed of about 190,000 whites ; 100,000 mulattos ;
25,000 free blacks ; and 42,000 slaves. This preponder-
ance of whites is in some measure owing to the Island having
been for centuries, a penal settlement for the mother coun-
try, Its present prosperity is very great, due in the first
place to the richness of the soil, and in the next, to the
cheapness of labour, as slavery still exists. The English
have but a limited share of the foreign trade of this island,
 11

which is principally in the hands of the French, who visit

the ports on the south coast.
As we only remained for two hours at San Juan to land
the mail, we had not time to visit the town , which is chiefly
built upon the western side of an island , forming the
eastern entrance to the harbour. It is protected by a
strong exterior line of fortifications, flanked by two citadels.
Conspicuous amongst the houses visible from the anchor-
age is one rendered interesting from the circumstance that
it was built and inhabited by Columbus. The view of the
bay of San Juan, and of the inland scenery, was extremely
beautiful ; the hills near the coast were broken into every
variety of form by volcanic agency, whilst in the distance

a range of high mountains of picturesque outline, on

which the richest tints were reflected, bounded the horizon.
We sailed along the island until night, when we entered the
" Mona" Passage, which divides it from Hayti. On the
morning of the 23rd we sighted the S.E. end of the latter
island, and at noon were abreast of the City of St. Domingo,
but which was too distant to be made out with any distinct-
ness. During the whole of this and the following day, we
ran along the south side of the Island, from its eastern to
its western extremity of Cape Tiburon , a distance of about
400 miles . As, generally, we were not nearer than twenty
miles, we could not distinguish many objects on shore ,
but judging from the numerous valleys, and abrupt forms
of the mountains, the interior must be highly picturesque.
The gorgeous setting of the sun behind the lofty moun-
tains of Cape Tiburon , formed a magnificent farewell scene ,
and left with us a lasting impression of our cruise along
the shores of this beautiful island.
B 2
 12

Many of the passengers were on deck at sunrise on the

25th, to enjoy the splendid view which presented itself of
the Island of Jamaica. The fore-ground of the low land
from Morant Point, is fringed to the edge of the sea with
graceful cocoas, bananas, and palms, whilst the Blue Moun-
tains, and the lofty ranges beyond Port Royal, are inter-
rupted in every direction by deep fissures and glens, formed
by the convulsions of nature during some of the terrible
earthquakes from which the island has suffered so much ;
or by the torrents which sweep down their sides , carrying
everything before them during the frequent hurricanes.
The hills were clothed even to their summits with trees of
the brightest hue, as well as of the darkest shade. Thus

we proceeded rapidly along the coast, each moment varying

the scene, and snatching occasional views up valleys of
enchanting beauty, until at length we arrived off Port
Royal. The entrance to this harbour is in some places so
narrow, that there is little more than sufficient room for
the ship to pass through. On the right hand is the
present town of Port Royal, consisting of a small fort,
ordnance storehouses, barracks, &c. It is built upon a
miserable flat and narrow point of land, being all that
now marks the site where once stood a proud city, of
which some submerged vestiges are even yet to be traced at
the bottom of the sea. This dismal place has a most
yellow-feverish appearance, but it is still the chief rendez-
vous for the men-of-war on the West India Station.

After passing Port Royal, a spacious and land-locked

bay opens out, at the head of which is Kingston , the prin-
cipal city of the island . We remained here for one day
to complete our coaling, and regretted that the short-
 13

ness of our stay prevented our visiting the interior, and of

inspecting the sugar and coffee cultivation ; but from en-
quiries which were made , as to the state of the island, it
appeared, that notwithstanding some fine estates had been
abandoned, the planters were gradually recovering from
the check which they had received from the sudden eman-
cipation of the slaves. But, although in the present year
there was the appearance of one of the finest crops which had
been seen for several seasons, it was computed that a great
portion of it would perish on the ground, from the want
of hands to gather it, the cholera having made sad
ravages amongst the labouring population. The complaint
is however universal, that the supply of labour is totally
inadequate to the wants of the island ; and that conse-
quently the difficulty of competing with the Slave States
of America and Cuba, retards the full development of all
the resources which this fine island undoubtedly possesses.
But as the spirit of the age is decidedly averse to the in-
stitution of slavery, the period of a general emancipation
throughout the West Indies, cannot in the nature of things ,
be much longer delayed ; and then our colonies would
again be placed on equal terms with their rivals.
During the existence of the slave trade, large quantities
of cotton were grown in Jamaica, and upwards of two mil-
lions of pounds weight have been exported from it in one
year. The plant is here perennial, whilst in the United
States it is only an annual, and as the enterprising and
persevering planters have again commenced its cultivation ,
it is earnestly to be hoped that this indispensable article
of our commerce, will again form one of the staple pro-
ductions of the island.
 14

Jamaica is about 170 miles long, by about fifty miles

in breadth. It was discovered by Columbus in 1494, and
in 1655 it was conquered from the Spaniards, during
Cromwell's rule. It is the third largest island in the West
Indies, and nearly equals in importance the whole of our
other possessions in those seas. Its greatest produce of
sugar was in 1802, three years before the slave trade was
abolished, when 1,873,300 cwts. were shipped. Last

year, the export into the United Kingdom only amounted

to 575,000 cwts . The population of the entire island , in
1844, was 378,000, and that of Kingston 40,000, which
numbers the late visitation of the cholera has, however,
sensibly diminished .

We left Kingston at daylight on the 26th, and coasted

all the day along the " Island of Springs," as it is termed,
enjoying the lovely prospect of the varying landscape .
The following morning, we met the mail steam-ship , Con-
way, from Honduras, and the Havana, on her way to St.
Thomas, and at night we passed within a few miles of the
coast of Cuba, and sighted the lighthouse on Cape San
Antonio. We soon entered the Gulf of Mexico ; and as
our packets have now, from fearful remembrance, a whole-
some dread of its many dangerous shoals, we hove to at
regular intervals, to take soundings. In passing over the
Campeachy Bank, we kept in from 13 to 15 fathoms
water. On our left, was the low coast of Yucatan, but at
too great a distance to be visible. In the afternoon of the
31st, we passed near an ugly-looking reef, with a wreck
upon it ; and in a few hours afterwards, obtained our first
view of the coast of Mexico. The evening was cloudy,
and we were disappointed in not seeing the magnificent
 15

mountains of Orizaba or Perote, which rise to a vast

height, and are the usual marks on approaching Vera
Cruz. At night we fired guns, rockets, and blue-lights
for a pilot, and at length one came on board ; but in trying
to enter the harbour, he ran the ship upon the shoal of
the Soldado, outside the castle of San Juan, where we
remained for three hours, until, with the rising of the
tide we got off, fortunately without any damage.
 16

CHAPTER II.

Departure for the River Coatzacoalcos- Fine Coast Scenery—

Miseries of a Small Vessel in a Hot Climate - Volcanic Moun-
tain of Tuxtla- Opening on the Coast, supposed to be the
Coatzacoalcos, afterwards ascertained to be the Tonaladas—
Splendid Sunset- The Coast as far as the Laguna de Santa
Anna- Interview with the Natives at the Tonaladas- Arrival
at the Coatzacoalcos -Passage of the Bar, and description of
the River up to Mina-Titlan- The Natives, &c.

As it was late in the season for a journey to the interior

of Mexico, we only remained a few days at Vera Cruz,
being anxious to see the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, which
was an object of greater interest to us ; and having

parted with the hospitable friends from whom, during

our short visit, we had received every possible civility
and attention, we took a passage in a Baltimore clipper
schooner, of 70 tons burden, bound for the River Coat-
zacoalcos, distant about 130 miles by the coast line to
the S.E.

April 3rd, at 3, P.M. , we got under way, and passed

 17

close to the walls of the Castle of San Juan , and cleared

the dangerous reefs which lie off the entrance of the har-
bour. In the evening we were fortunate in obtaining a
view of the Peak of Orizaba, which rises to the height
of nearly 18,000 feet above the level of the sea ; and we
estimated that we were distant from it about 130 miles.

The sun was setting behind it in a dazzling blaze of red,

and a few minutes afterwards the Peak was thrown out in
bold outline. The base was obscured in darkness, but the
summit, in the faint glimmering of light, was in parts
gorgeously illuminated with streaks of the richest colours ;
shortly after the sun had sunk beneath the horizon, the
snow-capped top was enveloped in a cold leaden-coloured
shroud, and suddenly vanished from the sight like a dis-
solving view.
The misery of being in a small vessel in a hot climate,
after the ample and luxurious accommodations we had en-
joyed in the splendid mail packet, was now painfully
brought home to us, and had we known what we had to
go through, the fatigues, inconvenience, and discomfort
of a journey by land would have been certainly preferred.
To-day it came on to blow hard, and there was no other
place but the little deck of the vessel, whereon to take
our meals, and, as there was not room to walk about,
the only alternative was to sit or lie down all the day
long. The berth or den wherein to pass the night, was
without circulation of air, and the heat perfectly stifling ;
the smell from the bilge water was almost insupportable,
and the water we had to drink was nearly unfit for use.
Succeeding head winds, alternating with calms, accom-
panied us whilst making 70 miles along the coast to the
 18

eastward, in sight of a high chain of mountains, com-

mencing near Alvarado . They appeared to be extremely
rugged, and assumed every variety of form ; at twilight
they exhibited a singular metallic, or dark copper colour.
These mountains terminate in the lofty volcanic pro-
montory or headland of Tuxtla, which, rising to a height
of perhaps 6000 feet, and somewhat detached from the
main chain, forms a most remarkable landmark, as this
huge mountain is advanced abruptly into the ocean, like

some giant watch-tower ; for the coast turns suddenly to

the southward at this point, and there is no high land
for some hundreds of miles more, going eastward.
April 6.- In the afternoon we were within a few miles
of an opening in the coast which, according to our obser-
vation, ought to be the mouth of the Coatzacoalcos. Tothe
eastward was a wooded headland, about 200 feet high,
whilst the opposite point was low, and the opening ap-
peared to be half a mile wide. We stood close in , and
saw no breakers, as the weather was fine, and the wind off
the land. We looked in vain for a pilot, but could not
perceive any sign of the place being inhabited . As our
Captain had never been on this coast before, and had
neither sailing directions, nor a good chart, he thought he
had mistaken the place , and we therefore continued some time
along shore exploring to the eastward, but soon returned
again to the mouth of the river with all our flags flying,
yet no pilot made his appearance . We were obliged at
dusk, to put out to sea again, as it would not do to be
caught in a " norther " near the land in this part of the
bight of the gulf, as this dreaded wind or hurricane usually
blows dead on shore.
 TUXTLA, WbyS. 40 miles .

SSE. 45miles. S byW

TUXTLA.

SE byS. SW
LAGUNA DE STA ANNA, 5 miles distant .
..

232
 19

The sun, this evening, set most splendidly behind the

mountain range of San Martin, amongst black clouds ,
broken into zig- zag lines, resembling forked lightning,
from their vividness. The scene was most extraordinary,

for just as the sun had touched the sharp dark outline at
the summit, it seemed the next moment to sink into the
very heart of the mountains, so suddenly did it vanish.
Once again it threw out the most brilliant colours, and
in ten minutes, the whole was closed in nearly utter
darkness.

Two days more were uselessly lost to us during which

we had examined the low line of coast to the eastward,
as far as the Lagoon of St. Anna, but it coming on
to blow a " chocolatero " or little " norther," we were

glad to get off the land , and out to sea again.

On the 9th, we still had no prospect of approaching
the land, as there was a heavy sea running, and every ap-
pearance of a regular " norther ;" and early the follow-
ing morning we were provoked to find ourselves after
being a week at sea, within 75 miles of Vera Cruz our
starting place. By the evening we had retraced our
way to the supposed entrance of the Coatzacoalcos ,
and we stood close in. There was a heavy line of

surf breaking right across the entrance, which no

pilot could come through. In shore it was very cloudy,
and much rain was falling . Several water spouts were
seen, which were carried in different directions by cur-
rents of air , and then dispersed . About six miles to
the eastward, we descried the only habitation we had
seen since leaving Vera Cruz- it was a large Indian hut,
of a brown colour, and appeared to be thatched with palm
 22

The Western Headland terminates in a cliff of earth

or clay, about 100 feet in height, and then for a third of a
mile behind it, the ground rises about another 100 feet,
where there is a small deserted fort, with a flag-staff ; and
a little higher up is a look-out-house, built in the
shape of a tower. Brushwood only grows on this hill.
The eastern headland is not so precipitous, but is of
nearly the same elevation as the western one. Dangerous
reefs project from them both, leaving a clear channel
midway, of about one -third of a mile in width.
Writers have varied greatly in their statements respect-
ing the depth of water upon the bar ; some authorities.
giving 11 feet at the lowest state of the tide, whilst others
have asserted there is as much as 21 feet , which last
appears to be an exaggeration . These discrepancies
may, perhaps, have arisen from the soundings having
been taken either during the dry season when there
was little current in the river, and at low water ;
or else at the time when it was in a state of
flood - the Bar is generally considered not to be a
shifting one. The rise of the tide is very inconsider-
able on this part of the coast, and , probably, it does
not exceed 18 inches or two feet. However, as this ques-

tion of the depth of water over the bar forms so material a

point to be precisely determined by an accurate survey, the
attention of the able staff of the American officers now

employed on the Isthmus has been specially directed to

this object, and the result of their examination , no doubt,
will be shortly made public.
The mouth of the river is situated in latitude 18 ° 8'30"
North and 94° 17' West longitude, by the Spanish
charts.
 23

The Coatzacoalcos is a noble river, and the least depth

of water, inside the bar, up to Mina-Titlan , is said to be
14 feet, but this is only in a few places, as it is generally
very deep. In the rainy season, i . e . from about the
middle of May to the end of August, this river rises as
much as 16 feet at times, above its ordinary level. The
first reach from the entrance is a magnificent sheet of
water, about six miles long and one mile broad ; from
this to Mina- Titlan, it maintains an average width of
nearly half a mile . On our way we passed the mouths
of several large and deep tributaries , which are navigable
for a considerable distance into the country.
The next morning we enjoyed a splendid sail up the river
to the Indian village of Mina-Titlan , distant about 24 miles .
The banks were densely wooded , and though the land in the
vicinity was generally low and swampy, yet it was occasion-
ally varied by hills of moderate elevation . Here we found
ourselves in the midst ofthe wild and luxuriant vegetation of
the Tropics. The trees were often very lofty and quite
new to us. Many of them were covered with parasitical
plants of beautiful flower and leaf, pendant from their
topmost branches to the ground. The graceful Palm tree
reared its head over the lower woods, and the whole scene
was enlivened by the cheerful notes and songs of birds
of gay and brilliant plumage. Numerous alligators were
floating listlessly on the surface-occasionally we would
pass Savannas on which large herds of cattle were

grazing. In the open huts of the cow-herds, on the banks ,

we saw Indian women idly swinging in their hammocks.
About eight miles up the river, we anchored for a short
time, and landed amongst a party of Indians, who were
 24

engaged in hauling their nets, and from whom we pro-

cured some excellent fish for breakfast. They have

a fair character for honesty and docility, but are indo-

lent and only half civilised. Their canoes are formed

out of the trunk of a single Mahogany or Cedar tree.

The children are often quite naked , but the men wear a
loose cotton garment from the waist downwards, and
generally, also, a serape or cloak and a straw hat ; the
form of their faces was mostly oval, with pleasing features.
Their frame is rather muscular, and their height somewhat
under that of a European.
They are capable of enduring much fatigue, bearing
heavy weights for long distances, and this in a singular
manner. Almost every thing is carried in a net which

hangs behind them, whilst the band , which is attached to

it, is passed across their foreheads, and thus, a considerable
part of the weight is thrown upon that part of the head.
The women are strongly formed and of low stature, their
faces round , and not very prepossessing . They wear neck-
laces with crosses suspended, and their only covering at
this season of the year is a cotton garment, reaching from
the waist to a little below the knee.
 Jum

r3

T
aband

1. ad.
teir

y covering at
1 I from
Entrance to the RIVER TONALADAS, S byW. Six miles .

ENTRANCE TO THE RIVER COATZACOALCOS.

COCOA NUT HILL 6 miles to the WEST OF TONALADAS .

 25

CHAPTER III.

Description of Mina- Titlan and neighbouring Country- The

Climate-Excursion to Jaltipan- French Emigrants—Agri-
culture- Forest Scenery- Natural Productions and Articles
of Commerce.

THE Indian village of Mina-Titlan, called also La

Fabrica, where we have fixed our head- quarters, is a
collection of about thirty mud huts, thatched with palm
leaves ; it contains a population of about 200 persons,
and is a Port of Entry, with its Captain of the Port
and several Custom-house officials : at present there

is no post-office nearer than Acayucan, forty miles

off, and scarcely any communication with the rest of the
world ; but should the railway to the Pacific, for which
the Americans are now busily surveying the route, be ac
complished, it will most probably start from hence, and
then it will become a place of much importance. Mina-
Titlan is certainly a very strange place, somewhat re-
sembling one of the newly formed settlements in Aus-
tralia. The natives are so careless and indifferent that

it is only with the greatest difficulty strangers can obtain

 26

anything to eat, notwithstanding that fish and game

of almost every kind are plentiful, and cattle abundant.
Vegetables, and the fine fruits of the tropics could be raised
without trouble, yet these are brought from the neigh-
bouring hamlets, as there is not a regular garden in the
village. A few nights since the gentleman with whom
the writer was staying had to go to each hut succes-
sively to borrow a candle, and the only person who had one
was the Alcalde or Mayor, who told him, if he would wait
until he had shut up his shop, and had gone to bed , he should
be happy to give him what was left of it. This will give an
idea of the mode of living here —everything else is in the
same way—you must do everything yourself : if you want a
horse or a canoe it will take half a day to hire one , and
if you trust to the natives, another day will pass before it

will be ready. Nothing, however, can exceed the kind-

ness of the few Europeans, from whom the greatest civility
and readiness to supply information respecting the country
was experienced. The writer was most fortunate in having
brought an introduction to an Irish gentleman , Don Miguel
Fagan, who was well acquainted with the Isthmus and its
language, having been engaged on the survey, and to whom
he was subsequently much indebted for his kind and zea-
lous assistance during our journies through the country.
The country for more than a hundred miles round is
inhabited almost entirely by Indians, who reside in villages
containing populations varying from 200 to 2000. Over
this enormous tract a few Europeans are scattered . The
surface generally is covered with dense forests, with open
prairies and savannas every here and there. To the west-
ward in the direction of Alvarado , the plains are of vast
 27

extent, and are extremely rich in herbage. It is almost

everywhere intersected by fine rivers, or running brooks.
The soil, although in some places sandy, is wonderfully pro-
ductive, all kinds of crops being raised without manure , the
seeds having merely to be dropped into the holes made for
them by the careless and lazy husbandmen. Although
the atmosphere is humid the climate may be considered
good for the Tropics. It is stated that no case of

yellow fever has been known to have occurred. Intermit-

tent fevers and agues are, however, by no means uncommon
during the rainy season, which lasts from the middle of May
to the end of August. The sun at this time of year, the
latter part of April, is dreadfully hot, but the nights are
usually very cool, and a blanket over us was an agreeable
addition, which we could not have borne at Vera Cruz.
Accompanied by Mr. Fagan, we mounted our lanky,
but active, hardy, Mexican horses, and set out for Jaltipan,
to see the tobacco cultivation , &c. The country generally
appeared to be of a sandy nature, resting on clay.
We passed numerous rich valleys, through which small
streams were flowing, and which were clothed with the
densest vegetation, and almost impenetrable strips of forest.
These were separated by large open prairies or plains,
across which we enjoyed a good gallop . The grass on these
had been set on fire by the Rancheros, to destroy the insects
and old herbage before the rains set in , when they remove
their cattle from the Savannas or low swampy grounds
to the higher lands. At noon, we halted at a village
called Oteapa, which has a population of nearly two
thousand Indians. We were there introduced to the

priest, who was a Spaniard ; and after he had regaled

c2
 28

us with a bottle of good claret, we mounted our

horses for Jaltipan , where we arrived at sunset, and

were kindly received at the house of a French lady.
In this part of Mexico, in some of the villages, one
or two French families are settled. The history of
their colonization is a most melancholy one. About

twenty years since, nearly eight hundred emigrants arrived

from France, in two large vessels , well provided origi-
nally with everything, but which after landing them on
the shores, immediately set sail, leaving them nearly
destitute ; they then dispersed over the country, and the
majority of them perished miserably.
The tobacco which is produced at Jaltipan , is of good
quality, and very cheap ; the price of a large cigar being
one halfpenny .It is cultivated entirely by small land-
owners, who bestow little care upon it. It is grown
upon the sandy hillocks, having a substratum of
strong soil, about one foot underneath the surface. The

cultivation in this part of Mexico consists of small unen-

closed patches which have been cleared amidst the forest.
Maize, tobacco, the iztle, from which ropes and mats
are made, and occasionally a small plantation of sugar
canes, form their principal agriculture.
Nothing could exceed in beauty the luxuriant and majes-
tic appearance of the forest scenery during our ride this
day. Some of the trees are of gigantic size, and occasion-
ally assume the most grotesque forms ; and we were

surrounded with plants and shrubs innumerable, covered

with every variety of creepers of extraordinary length, and
adorned with a profusion of flowers of the richest colours .
We passed quantities of orange trees, coffee bushes, and
 29

vines growing wild, the sapote with its large and luscious
fruit, and the India rubber, vanilla , and tamarind trees ,
the latter of which attains to an enormous size. We
also saw, pendant from the branches of the dwarf oak,
numerous nets or purses of the wild silk, which is so com-
monly met with. This last only serves for the very

limited articles of finery manufactured by the Indians

on the south side of the Isthmus, and it, as well as the
many other extraordinary and abundant natural products
of the country, have been totally unheeded by the few
traders who only rarely traverse it .
On our return to Mina -Titlan , we passed through the
Indian village of Cosoliacaque, containing a few well - built
houses. The population is estimated at 1600 persons.
The following is a list of the woods and other articles
of commerce which are given by different authorities as
being the produce of the northern and southern sides.
of the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, viz.

Timber and Furniture Woods.

Mahogany. Macayo.
Cedar. Paque.
Pines, firs, larches. Maple.
Oak. Lignum vitæ said to grow
Sapote. along the foot of the San
Ebony . Martin mountains .
Gateado. Santa Maria.
Granadillo . Rosewood.
Sabicue.

Of these the finest descriptions of ship-building timber

abound everywhere on the Isthmus ; and for years to come
they will be accessible for water carriage.
 30

Dyewoods and Dyes.

Fustic. Indigo.
Logwood. Bixa Orellana (annotto).
Brazil wood. Cochineal.

Yellowwood, or Naranjeno, the name of a dyewood found

• near the San Martin mountains ; it is said to be a high tree,
about 20 inches in diameter.
Medicinal and Gums.
Copalchi (croton cascarilla). Pterocarpus draco (gum
Tamarind . dragon tree) .
Sarsaparilla . Liquidamber.
Cassia fistula. Myroxylon Peruiferum .
Laurus sassafras. Ocozotl (a gum similar to
Jatropha Elastica (India true amber) .
rubber tree) Acacias (gum arabic).

Articles of General Commerce , Spices, Eatables , Fruits, &c.

Laurus cassia (cassia lignea). Maize.
Vanilla . Rice.

Ginger. Beans and peas.

Pimento. Cocoa nuts.
Cocoa. Oranges and lemons.
Coffee. Grapes, and all other fruits
Honey . common to the West In-

Sugar. dies.

Capsicums . Jerked beef.

Plantains. Salt fish.
Cotton. Salt.
Tobacco. Skins and Hides .

Pita and Ixtli (for mats Tallow.

and cordage). Tortoise shells.
Wild silk. Pearls.
Wax. Mother of pearl.
 31

Animals.

Horned cattle, horses, and mules.

Wild animals and game in abundance.
In the mountainous districts fine marble, limestones ,
slates, and other building materials are obtainable.
At the time of the Spanish conquest these provinces
were celebrated for the abundance of the precious metals ,
as well as for their lead, iron, and copper ores.
 32
3348

CHAPTER IV .

Excursion to the Rio Cóachapa- The wild animals of the Isthmus

-Mahogany Cutting- Great size of the Trees- Canoes-
Excursion tothe Rio Uspanapan and its ascent- Mahogany and
Cedar Trees- A Ride through the Woods from the Uspanapan
to the Coachapa- Abundance of Mahogany- A Night ad-
venture at Mina- Titlan- Country from the Coatzacoalcos to
the Pacific- Proposed Railway from the Atlantic to the
Pacific across the Isthmus of Tehuantepec.

EARLY on the morning of the 15th of April, we swam

our horses across the Coatzacoalcos, and attended by a
guide, set out to examine the mahogany cutting at Mons.
Tête's : it is situated in a direct line about six miles to
the southward of Mina-Titlan , and on the right bank of
the Rio Cóachapa . The country we visited to-day
is commonly called the " Island ," although it is not one,
strictly speaking. It extends a great distance to the south-
ward, between the rivers Uspanapan and Cóachapa ; and
the part we inspected was about five miles broad, but widens
as you advance. Some peculiar privileges are said to exist
in favour of parties cutting mahogany upon it ; and
from all accounts it must abound in that wood in many
 33

localities. Our track was only a bridle road through

the forest, continuing sometimes for miles amidst alleys

of evergreens and large leaved plants, overhung with
festoons of beautiful flowers, in the midst of which some
huge tree would every here and there tower up. One in
particular was most extraordinary ; its size was enormous,
and its formation very singular ; numerous stems rose se-
parately from the ground, and then united at a height
of perhaps thirty feet, where the tree threw out immense
straggling arms, thickly covered with parasitical plants,
and long pendant creepers.
About one half of our ride was across rich Savannas,
evidently subject to flood . The grass in some parts was
nearly the height of our horses, yet, notwithstanding the
great capabilities of this district, it is almost entirely with-
out cultivation. We passed large herds of cattle and

horses, and on the lagoons observed numerous flocks of diffe-

rent kinds of wild fowl. We were amused at the antics of

several troops of monkeys, throwing themselves with won-

derful agility from the tops of the highest trees, often falling
twenty feet at a time, but always recovering themselves
either by their tails or feet. We may here notice that
amongst the other animals most common on the Isthmus
are the tiger or ounce, the lion or puma, the ocellots or
small tiger, the wild cat, the American fox, the marten ,
deer, hares , rabbits, and the wild hog. The tapir, on the
upper parts of the Chicapa and other rivers, also abounds.
At noon we reached the rancho of Mons . Tète, and
after we had rested for a short time his son volunteered
to lead us to where they were cutting mahogany. We had

a rough scramble through the underwood ; young Tète

 34

cutting a passage for us amongst the vines and creepers,

with the long straight sword which is universally used in
this part of Mexico.
We found the mahogany trees very plentiful, growing
generally from fifty to two hundred feet apart ; many of them
were of great girth , say from 18 to 24 feet in circumference,
and as high as 50 or even 60 feet without branches when
they threw out large arms, often thickly covered with parasi-
tical plants and flowers , and with vines hanging down from
them. Here we saw a raft of one hundred logs on the
river, besides other trees which were cut in the forest,
ready for removal. A good many of them, very sound and
free from defects, were well squared, and about three
feet deep. The men are so careless that they will drop
a log in the hot sunshine, although there may be a shaded
place within a short distance. A few leagues above Mons.
Tète's, on the left bank of the Cóachapa, and thence in the
direction of Almagres, there is a district called the Salines,
or Salt springs, in which the mahogany tree is abundant,
and attains an enormous size . We were shown a large

round piece upwards of six feet broad, which had been

cut in that vicinity. The upper part of the Rio Cóa-
chapa is little known, but there can be no doubt as to
the mahogany tree being most plentiful along its course.
Mr. Tète informed us that he cut mahogany all the year

round , but that he preferred to fell it when the moon was

in its first quarter, and that when this rule had been observed,
he had never known the wood to be attacked by the worm.
This opinion is, however, at variance with the practice of
the cutters in St. Domingo and Cuba, who maintain that
the proper time to fell mahogany is during the wane of the
 35

moon, when it is said to be freest from sap and of a richer

colour .
The canoes are very numerous on the rivers , and prove

what has been asserted respecting the size of the trees from
which they are formed. We met with one whilst ascending
the Uspanapan which was forty- five feet long, and upwards of
four feet wide. They are all made out of the trunk of a single
tree. This evening some large ones are expected to arrive

from the Uspanapan ; they are bringing cargoes of cocoa,

which is carried overland from Tabasco to that river , and
thence conveyed to Mina-Titlan , where there are now
50 mules waiting, which have arrived from the " city " of
Mexico, and which will return to that place with it. The
distance altogether is upwards of six hundred miles, and
the time consumed on the journey is said to be about three
months. This shows the backward state of the country
more than anything we have yet seen.
On the 17th, we again set out from our quarters at Mina-
Titlan to examine the mahogany cutting on the Rio Uspana-
pan, at Edward Wright's Rancho. The day having been
very hot, we did not start in our canoe until after sunset,
intending to ascend the river in the night time. Our crew
consisted of three Indians, two to paddle, and one as
steersman. We rigged a small awning to protect us from

the dew, and under this we spread our blankets, and

managed to sleep very soundly until morning.
About six miles below Mina- Titlan, we reached the
Uspanapan at its junction with the Coatzacoalcos. This
first is a splendid river and of great depth. Its source is
unknown, but is supposed to be in a range of mountains
often visible to the south east from the upper part of the
 36

Coatzacoalcos, and which have the reputation of being rich

in gold and silver. It is but little known beyond 40 or 50
miles above its junction , except to Indians ; who report that
there is mahogany all the way up ; and as it flows from the
south east, we are fully of opinion that this will be
found to be correct. Mr. Wright, who examined it for
about twenty miles above his rancho, confirms this
report, particularly as relating to the left bank of the
river.
About 12 miles from the mouth, we entered a piratical
looking little creek, concealed from the river by high trees ;
the banks nearly touched each other, and we poled the
canoe beneath roots and branches which met over our
heads. We landed about 200 yards up it , and then walked
to Mr. Wright's rancho across a rich alluvial flat, which
had been planted with Indian corn ; and where we also
noticed the tobacco and some experimental cotton plants
growing luxuriantly.
In the morning, Mr. Wright accompanied us to show
the country near his hut. As it was a dense forest all

around, we had much difficulty in penetrating it . After

a walk of four hours, we became completely exhausted
from the stifling heat of the woods, although the distance
traversed was only one mile and a quarter in a straight line.
We counted 82 mahogany trees, large and small, one of
them was certainly 60 feet in height, before branching out,
and the tree was quite straight. We also saw two gigantic
cedar trees, the smaller one measured 24 feet round the
butt, and was not less than 130 feet high ; a sketch of the
larger one was taken. The cedar is not common on the
" island ." It is most abundant on the Coatzacoalcos,
 37

particularly about forty miles above Almagres, where it

is said to grow to a great size.
In the space round Mr. Wright's rancho, one or two
cargoes of mahogany had been cut from a comparatively
small extent, yet we saw many splendid trees still standing.
It is the general opinion that the best and richest wood
grows on land which is slightly elevated , and subject
to occasional flood , and on a stiff soil without being
swampy; and it is asserted, and we believe with truth, that
it improves in quality the higher the rivers are ascended
towards the mountain ranges.

On the 21st we set out from the banks of the Uspanapan,

with our horses and pack mules, and proceeded across the
" Island " to the Rio Cóachapa. We passed several fine ma-
hogany trees on our road, but on arriving within a mile
and a half of the rancho of Mons. Tète we came to where

they grew quite thickly all around us, and to a great

size. One tree in particular struck us as being most
beautiful. It was 24 feet round , and its trunk rose to
nearly 50 feet quite straight. At that height, it spread
out fan-like into a number of large branches adorned with
beautiful foliage .

After our return to Mina-Titlan, few incidents worthy

of record occurred during the remaining days we spent
at that place. The last night of our stay was how-
ever not a very agreeable one ; the evening had been
very sultry, and there was an unusual calmness in the
air, and silence in the woods around us ; myriads of
small insects made their appearance, which we had not
before observed ; just before midnight, a terrific storm
burst in all its fury over our heads, and an unbroken peal
 38

of thunder lasted for three hours, seemingly resting

upon the very roof of our hut, and shaking our beds in
which we were trying in vain to sleep. Gusts of wind
rushed through our unprotected windows, and torrents of
rain flooded the floor and saturated our clothes. In the
midst of this, countless curs, which infest every Indian
village, set up the most dismal howlings. Even on this ,
as all other occasions, these disgusting and half-starved
brutes were joined in chorus by the cocks, which regu-
larly at each hour after nightfall, maintain a horrid crow-
ing-in the woods close to us, monkeys and birds were
chattering, and mosquitos and other smaller insects in-
vaded us indoors- and as a climax to the whole, we

found, when daylight at length appeared , that our com-

panion was suffering from an attack of fever and ague,
and unable to accompany us on our projected land journey
tomorrow.

On our arrival here, we had been extremely anxious to

extend our visit to the upper waters of the Coatzacoalcos,
and to cross over the mountains to the Pacific, but the time
lost in our voyage from Vera Cruz, as well as the difficul-
ties of the route, and the approaching close of the dry sea-
son , prevented our accomplishing this interesting journey.
The only means of reaching the point where the boat
navigation on the river terminates, at a distance of about
100 miles from the mouth, is in a canoe , and it would take
six days to do this, the traveller having to sleep each
night on board, or else to bivouack amidst the stifling rank
underwood on the margin of the river, for there is not a
habitation to be met with after the village of Almagres is
passed. When the head of the navigation is reached , he
 39

has to wait in some wretched dirty hut until a messenger can

return with horses from a hamlet, about twenty miles dis-
tant. The track then leads through a dense forest of
gigantic trees, and it was from this district that the large
pine masts were obtained which the Spaniards sent down
to their depôt at Mina-Titlan to be shipped to the Ha-
vana. The Sierra Madre is afterwards traversed through a
gorge or pass, which sinks to the height of only 700 to 800
feet above the level of the ocean. These mountains are de-
scribed as rising in wild grandeur to a vast height on either
hand, and then decline towards the Pacific, on the southern
side of the Isthmus, with a fine open country, and inhabited
by an intelligent and comparatively industrious race of
Indians, and Mexicans of Spanish origin . Tehuantepec ,
which is the principal town of the district, is reported to
contain a large population , and is distant about ten miles
from Ventosa Bay, where the harbour for the projected
railway will probably be formed.
At Mina-Titlan we met one of the party of American
engineers who are surveying the Isthmus for the purpose
of making a railway across it to the shores of the Pacific.
The distance, in a direct line, from the mouth of the
Coatzacoalcos to Ventosa Bay, is about 150 miles. The
survey is now nearly completed, and he assured us
that the country does not present any obstacles which
may not be overcome ; and that he had been engaged on
lines in the United States which were more difficult to con-
struct than the one now contemplated.
The advantages of this route for the United States ,
in preference to the others proposed to connect their
Atlantic and Pacific territories, is now generally ad-
 40

mitted, both in respect to distances and resources ; but

as a geographical problem it is also the shortest from
Europe to the north-western coasts of America, as
well as across the Great Pacific, (by the Sandwich Is-
lands) to Japan, and China, which can no longer be shut
to the commercial enterprize of the whole civilized world.
 41

CHAPTER V.

Land Journey from Mina-Titlan to Vera Cruz- Rich and

Beautiful Country- Adventures on the Road- Alvarado-
Arrival at Vera Cruz, and Return to England by the way of
Jamaica, Cuba, the United States and Canada.

HAVING Completed the preparations for our journey to

Vera Cruz, and engaged an Indian with a couple of mules
to carry the baggage, we mounted our little, dapple,
66
pacing " nags on the 26th of April, and bid adieu to our
kind friends at Mina-Titlan, intending to return to Vera
Cruz by land, the distance being about 230 miles by the
track which we were going to take.
In passing through the large Indian village of Oteapa,
there was a grand procession in honour of one of the saints,
whose figure, gaudily dressed, was borne under a canopy.
It slowly approached along a green in front of the church,
headed by a band of Indian musicians ; then followed
a man swinging a censer, and a crowd of men and

women dressed in flowing white garments, the heads of

the latter being decorated with chaplets of flowers. They
Ꭰ
 42

all chaunted a hymn and looked very devout, and upon the
whole it had a picturesque and pleasing effect. We then
went to inspect the church, which would have astonished

Mr. Pugin : it was about thirty feet wide, and one hun-
dred long the walls were made with boards , and the
roof was prettily thatched with palm leaves : there
were three altars ; the two side ones, or chapels, containing
figures of the Blessed Virgin : there was also a large
figure of our Saviour, with the crown of thorns and

" seamless" garment. The reredos extended as high as

the roof, and was decorated with gilding and red painting,
and with figures of saints boldly and skilfully carved. At
the west end was a platform for the orchestra, which unfor-
tunately we did not hear, the only performer then present
being a melancholy Indian , who kept beating a drum in the
most monotonous manner.

In the evening we halted at Jaltipan , the same large In-

dian town to which we had lately made a short excursion , and
in former times it was of some importance. It being Sunday,
the place was all alive with drums beating, and processions,
bearing figures going from house to house, the women wear-
ing wreaths round their heads composed of beautiful crimson
and yellow flowers. In the morning, a marriage procession
passed the door ; first came a party with musquets, which
they kept firing to the admiration of the naked children , next
some drummers, then about fifty Indians marched along
laughing, singing, and shouting, with the bride and bride-
groom in the centre. There is a high , artificial mound in this
town, of historical interest ; it was raised by order of
Cortez, in memory of Doña Marina, the Indian woman who
accompanied him in his expeditions, and rendered him
 43

such important services. She was a native of this place,

and deserved the execrations of her race for helping the
Spaniards to conquer her country.
It is interesting to notice the method used by the Indians
to procure their honey, as it is a very simple one. When
they find a hive of bees in a tree, they close the aper-
ture with clay and then cut the branch off and hang it up
under the eaves of their hut ; after a short time, the hole
is opened, and the bees come out and return , seemingly
not caring for their change of locality.
April 28th- At noon we set off for Acayucan , distant
21 miles. We were most fortunately joined by Mr. Fagan,
who, although not recovered from his attack of ague and
fever, had most kindly determined to proceed with us.
If he had not overtaken us we should have had difficulty
in finding our way, as the track for upwards of 100
miles of the journey is only a cattle path. Directly
we left Jaltipan, the country improved, and became more
cultivated than any part we had previously seen ; the
soil was a rich sandy loam. The track was well marked
through the Forest, and was cleared for about forty yards
wide, so that it looked like a large " Riding" through
one of our English woods. The streams are less plentiful
now we are leaving the Coatzacoalcos. After riding twelve
miles we arrived at the rancho of Don Polonio Pueblo,
a gentleman of colour, and a captain in the Mexican
Regulars. A small river, which he called the Chacalapa,
and which has its source in the Lake Oluta, runs past his
rancho, on which he says there is plenty of mahogany ;
this we had not time to ascertain, but after we had gone
three miles further, we rode off the path into a forest,
D 2
 44

and in a short time saw many mahogany and cedar

trees ; this was so far satisfactory, as it proves that the
mahogany grows some distance back in the country.
Acayucan is a place of some importance, being the
capital of an extensive district. Large quantities of
tobacco, cocoa, and cotton are cultivated around it , about
five or six thousand bales of the latter being annually grown ,

The population is considerable. Many of the houses are

of brick, and some of them have been built by the " old
Spaniards." We here noticed the immense burdens which
the women bear. They were carrying the earthen vessels

used for water, from a village twenty miles distant, where

they are made ; the weight which each woman carried
was said to be 120 pounds.
Just outside the town, we came the next morning to a
large cocoa plantation ; the plant grows about ten feet
high ; it is set in rows about fifteen feet apart, and be-
tween lines of low trees for the purpose of shade.
In a few miles, as we advanced , there was a great change
in the appearance ofthe country, which was broken into high
ridges, with table land intervening . The soil was of a red
coloured sand ; this continued for about twenty miles,
and was covered by a vast forest of oaks, which extended
for miles to our right and left. At noon we halted
for breakfast, at the hut of an Indian ; our cheer
was very homely, consisting of dried beef and eggs. In
the afternoon, we overtook a marriage cavalcade ; as we
passed we were amused at the young ladies, who had been
sitting astride their horses, changing their posture directly
they saw us, whilst the older ones, who would not give
in to modern habits, remained a la cavaliera, smoking
their cigars.
 45

At 4 o'clock, we emerged from the oak forest, and a

glorious view suddenly burst upon us. This, indeed
realized the idea we had formed of a scene in Mexico ; it

was our first view of a prairie on a grand scale. Far as

the eye could reach it " rolled" away, seemingly boundless ,
until disappearing with the misty line of the chain of
lofty and distant mountains ; countless cattle were spread
over it ; and every here and there it was dotted with clumps
of trees, or now and then a solitary one, with a broad bushy
top, and thin straight stem, which broke the sameness
of the view, and gave the whole a most enchanting effect.
At 6 o'clock we reached the hacienda of Correo Nuevo,
belonging, we were informed , to Don Roman Montero,
who owned a vast tract of country, extending for about
sixty miles along our line of march. He is said to be
the proprietor of nearly 60,000 head of cattle. Just outside
the farm yard are the ruins of a handsome Grecian church ;
and, in front of the hacienda , there is a large mutilated
figure, carved in stone, the head lying near to it, and it is
evidently an idol of the pagan time of the Montezumas.
Very large cedar trees, we were informed, grew in this
neighbourhood . For twenty miles along our route
the country seemed to be but little inhabited , and we
saw only a few miserable huts.
April 30th. We were in the saddle shortly after day-
light. The sensation of riding across these vast prairies ,
when the fresh morning air blows over them, is most
exhilarating. The herds of cattle which are spread over
them, form a fine perspective, gradually diminishing to the
eye, until the distant groups appear like mere specks .
At mid-day we arrived at the river San Juan , which was
 46

flowing rather rapidly, through well-wooded banks di-

versified by rich meadows and low hills at a spot which the
natives call the pass of Coatololapa . It is here about 180
yards wide, and not very deep. It is above this that the
mahogany and cedar are cut, for the supply of the Vera
Cruz market. After swimming our horses across, we

stopped for breakfast at the rancho of an Indian , who

came in during our stay, mounted on one of the active
small horses, which are in these parts so well trained for
hunting and lassoing cattle.
As the ranchos are far apart, and the track difficult to
find, we were anxious to advance as rapidly as possible,
but unfortunately were overtaken by night before we
could reach a habitation. We had, therefore , no alter-
native but to take shelter in a deserted cattle keeper's hut
on the top of a long prairie . The walls were built with
sticks of the wild cane, and were quite open with large
gaps in them . The roof, covered with palm leaves, was
inhabited by bats, and all kinds of insects. As this kind
of hut is a favourite retreat for the vampire, we drew our
blankets closely around us, in expectation of a visit from
these disagreeable animals, which will noiselessly fasten
upon persons whilst sleeping, and suck their veins until they
are faint from exhaustion. In the night it blew hard, and
we awoke the next morning suffering from severe cold.
During the day we had joined company with a party of
Mexicans, who were going to Tlacotalpan with a string
of mules loaded with cigars of good quality.
-
May 1st. We were up at day-light, and with hardly
anything to eat, we continued our course over the

prairies. The number of cattle we passed was something

 47

prodigious- they were literally in thousands together.

What most strikes a traveller, is the scantiness of the
population, and the almost total absence of cultivation ,
although the soil is of the richest description ; during the
whole of this day's journey we only saw two small patches
of plantains and maize. The people seem to live here-
abouts on dried beef and beans, being too idle to grow
vegetables or corn . In the morning we left what may be
termed the " rolling" or undulating prairie, and descended
upon perfectly level land of vast extent, on which the
finest long grass was growing. Here the cattle became
less numerous, and in their place we saw many thousands
of horses ; they were well bred and shaped, and would
make beautiful ones for ladies in England ; their height
was about 14 hands. The path was most difficult to
find , being intersected by cattle tracks running in every
direction. Our guide, and the Mexicans who were with
us, and who were supposed to be well acquainted with
the country, lost the road, and we wandered about for
a long time before recovering it. We travelled for

about thirty miles to-day upon these splendid plains, and

came to a halt for the night on the right bank of the river
Alvarado, called by the Indians the Rio Coatololapa.
We here fared little better than in the deserted cattle -keep-
er's hut ; the rancho we stopped at, was built in a swamp,
the floors quite damp , and only a few boards to sleep on.
May 2nd - . We still continued over the prairies and
immense troops of horses only were seen ; the land
was of the richest black mould , and fit to grow anything,
yet there was not the slightest appearance of cultivation ;
and although it was nearly the end of the dry season ,
 48

yet the grass was most luxuriant. For two days we have

travelled over the property of one individual, viz . , Don

Francisco Chasaro, and how much further it might ex-
tend it was difficult to ascertain.

About eight miles after starting we again struck upon

the river Alvarado, at a rancho, called Suchil. It
was here upwards of a mile wide , and very deep. A party
of Californians, in a large canoe, were passing down it at
the time . Below this point the country is but slightly
elevated above the level of the river, which, in the wet
season, must inundate vast tracts between this and the
sea coast.
After a hot and fatiguing day's ride we reached the
bank of the San Juan, where the Alvarado unites with
it, opposite to the town of Tlacotalpan where they form
a fine river, about three quarters of a mile in width. Our
mules and horses had their strength tested here , as they
had to swim across this wide stream .

Tlacotalpan is an old Spanish town, and a place of some

importance, having two cotton mills, and an extensive
steam saw-mill which supplies Vera Cruz with mahogany
and cedar. The saw mill was owned by Don Francisco

Chasaro, the proprietor of the vast tract of rich country

we have been travelling over, and by a German or Pole
named Moricio Selecki. Here are three churches, two
of which are of considerable size ; the houses are of brick,
with corridors in front, which give the streets a pleasing
effect, as your eye catches the line of arches ; the streets
are said to be inundated in the rainy season, the country
for many leagues round being extremely low and level ;
a lofty range of mountains in the far distance to the
 49

Eastward, only relieving the monotony of the land-

scape.
We here joined the Californians, whom we had seen
on the river, and who described the country they traver-
sed from Tehuantepec as being difficult to pass over for
the four first days, on account of the rugged nature of
the mountains, but afterwards the travelling was good .
They say that the prairies between these mountains and
Alvarado are the richest lands they have seen anywhere
in America. This party may be regarded as the precursors
of that great migratory stream which will, in all probabi-
lity, ere long, avail itself of the passage across the Isthmus
of Tehuantepec, and thereby add to the wealth and pros-
perity of the country.
At Tlacotalpan we saw some fine specimens of mahogany
worked into furniture, which had been cut at the pass of

San Juan about twenty-five leagues up the river. It

appeared to us from what we observed here, and at Vera
Cruz, that a superior description of mahogany grows in
that part of the country, and that some of it is quite as
good as what is imported from the " north side " of St.
Domingo. The people here distinguish two sorts, viz .,
the caoba or harder, and the baywood or softer kind . There
are also two kinds of cedar, the hard and the soft ,
which are extensively used in Vera Cruz for large
buildings, on account of their strength and durability.
It is said that abundance of these woods can be obtained
and delivered at Tlacotalpan at very cheap rates. We saw

about 1000 logs of cedar on the bank of the San Juan ,

opposite to the saw mill, some of which were of great
size. The canoes employed on this river are generally
 50

scooped out of a single tree of cedar, and here we measured

one which was sixty-one English feet in length, and five and
a half broad. All accounts concurred in stating that the
cedar came from the district around St. Andres ; and that
this wood and mahogany are to be found from the foot of
the San Martin mountains to the Coatzacoalcos. The

places named are well worth the attention of any party

who may be inclined to enter into the trade ; and as yet
no cargo of mahogany has been sent from Alvarado to
any foreign port.
As the country between our present halting-place and
Vera Cruz was well known, but uninteresting, we des-
patched our Indian guide by land for that city with the
horses and mules, whilst we took our passage in a crazy
little steamer called the " Neptuno, " in company with
the Californians. As we proceeded down the river Al-

varado, we traversed almost boundless plains , scarcely

elevated above its banks ; in one direction only they were
backed by lofty mountains, but elsewhere presented the
same uniform level appearance ; and as there was scarcely
a sign of cultivation around us, so complete was the soli-
tude, that if it had not been for the large herds of cattle
which were spread over them , we might have imagined
ourselves in a perfectly uninhabited country. The

river appeared to be deep, and of great breadth, with

openings of considerable size, extending far into the
country. At one place its width diminished to about
a quarter of a mile, where it ran along the base of
some sand hills, on the right bank, after which it ex-
panded into a magnificent basin, several miles wide, and
ranging for a long distance parallel with the line of coast ;
 51

as we entered this fine estuary, the Town of Alvarado

opened to our view, at the foot of an elevated range of
sand hills, at a distance of about two miles from the sea,
with numerous schooners and smaller craft anchored be-

fore it. The river here again becomes somewhat con-

tracted, and finally empties itself into the gulf of Mexico,
over a bar of shifting sands, on which there is a depth of
only eight or nine feet of water.
Alvarado is situated in lat. 18° 45' 30", N., and 95° 43
W. long. It was used as a port of entry during the occupa-
tion by the Spaniards of the castle of San Juan de Ulua,
but when that place was captured by the Mexicans, it
was closed to foreign trade ; and no foreign vessel can
now enter it without special permission. Twenty- one
miles to the N. W. of it, is the anchorage of Anton Lizardo ,
formed by low islands and reefs, which is considered the
safest and most capacious in the Gulf of Mexico ; but
unfortunately this, like Alvarado , is not allowed to be
used by foreign ships for purposes of commerce . Con-
sequently any mahogany or cedar contracted for in
these districts, would have to be sent in Mexican vessels
to Vera Cruz, forty-five miles distant.
We remained in Alvarado for the night ; and as a grand
Fandango was announced, we explored the dark streets of
the town, in search of the place where it was to be held.
After a long walk, we were surprised to find ourselves
opposite to a large marquee, one end of which was thrown
open, and displayed an altar tastefully ornamented with
flowers, and brilliantly illuminated . We understood it
had been erected in honour of the Feast of the Holy Cross,
which occurred at this season. After this, we again searched
 52

for the place appointed for the Fandango, and came to an

open space, in the centre of which a floor had been con-
structed of boards, with benches ranged round for the
accommodation of the spectators to witness the dances.
Within this enclosure poles were erected with lines con-
necting them, upon which it was intended, that as each
couple arrived they should hang the lights they brought
with them . We however waited in vain for their appear-
ance ; and came to the conclusion that the ladies were either

too modest, or what was more probable , they entertained

a natural reluctance in exhibiting themselves to the gaze
of the rather strange-looking characters which formed our
party. In passing along the streets we observed in the
Posadas, or Inns, eager groups of gamblers assembled
round the tables, and indulging in their favourite game of
Monte ; and as the town is rather celebrated for its

"knights of the road ," we did not regret returning to our

close berths on board the steamer.

The following morning we proceeded on our voyage to

Vera Cruz, expecting to arrive there at noon, but we
had not got many miles out to sea, when a crack was dis-

covered in the dilapidated boiler, through which the steam

was escaping. We remained in a helpless state for several
hours, until the necessary patching was completed, and
if, in the meanwhile, it had blown hard, we must
have been driven on shore , as the vessel was without
masts. This is probably the only steamer which Mexico

possesses in the Gulf. In the evening we passed near to

the small islands and reefs which form the harbour of An-
ton Lizardo ; at dusk, we sighted the light on the castle
of San Juan de Ulua, and shortly afterwards came to an
 53

anchor at Vera Cruz ; from which we had set out, a little

more than a month previous, on our voyage to the Isthmus

of Tehuantepec.
Here, we were again welcomed by our hospitable friends ;
but as the climate renders this by no means a desirable
residence for a stranger, we were glad to see the Trent,
the same fine vessel in which we had come from

England, steam into the harbour.

As we were anxious , before returning to England ,
to visit the Island of Cuba , and make a short tour in
the United States , we took our passage in the Trent
for Jamaica , as offering the most convenient oppor-
tunity for effecting this object ; and we were rejoiced
to find ourselves once more on her deck , in company with
her excellent commander and officers , and partaking of
the good cheer to which we had so long been strangers in
the wilds of Mexico .

On the 8th of May we bid adieu to Mexico , and we

quitted it, impressed with a feeling of admiration for the
splendour of its scenery, the richness of its soil , and the
vastness of its natural resources ; but with a sentiment also
of regret, that a country so magnificent should be so little
appreciated by its inhabitants, that it did not command
that high rank in the scale of nations, to which the extent
and geographical position of its territory otherwise en-
titled it.
 54

CHAPTER VI .

General Observations upon the Mahogany Trade of the Isthmus of

Tehuantepec, and District of Alvarado.

As the vast resources of this little -known portion of

Mexico, are likely to be quickly developed by our enter-
prising trans-atlantic brethren, who will undoubtedly
construct a railway across the Isthmus of Tehuantepec,
from the Atlantic to the Pacific, and thereby open out a

route to California from New Orleans, nearer by 1800

miles than the present one by Panama, there seems to
be every probability, that in the course of a few years,
the Saxon race will people this vast wilderness, and
that this splendid country , now only with little exception ,
the abode of the Indian, and of wild animals, will become
one of the chief highways to the great Pacific Ocean ; and
as it abounds in mahogany and cedar, a trade of consider-
able importance in these, and perhaps also in other woods ,
will be shortly established. To such parties as may be
disposed to enter into this trade, the following observa-
tions which were made during a short residence upon
the Isthmus, are now offered .
 55

The mahogany trade at the Isthmus is as yet quite in its

infancy, and is conducted with little system ; about four car-
goes only being annually exported from the Coatzacoalcos.
Any party going there, with the view of entering into the
trade and being his own cutter, should first of all make a good
examination ofthe different rivers, landing every three orfour
miles, and then going that distance back from their banks—
he will have to explore for himself, as the country is but
little known, and information not easy to procure. After
having satisfied himself as to the localities in which the
mahogany is most abundant, he can make his own arrange-
ment with the proprietors of the land , some of whom own
vast tracts of country, and would readily grant the privi-
lege of cutting for a comparatively trifling sum of money.
Mahogany and cedar of the finest dimensions, might
readily be procured , provided that all the necessary tackle
and apparatus were on the spot, and that men were brought
who were accustomed to the work, and to a hot climate,
and who would understand the cutting and preparation of
the wood. These men should have experienced superin-
tendents over them ; and, above all, the person who con-
ducted the enterprise should have great energy, be able to
stand the climate, and to rough it in every way in the

bush. These points are especially mentioned, because

you cannot calculate upon obtaining such assistants here,
unless the Americans make the projected railway, when it
would naturally attract many free, intelligent, and able-
bodied workmen, who might be willing to engage upon this

service ; for although there is a large population of Indians,

who are strong, active and honest fellows in some things,
yet they are careless, indolent, and fickle, and from their
 56

vice of gambling, are, almost without exception, in

debt to their employers. A singular custom prevails
amongst them : if you want to engage a man , you must
first of all, pay the money he may owe to his last employer,
and on his quitting you , his next master must also repay
any sum you may have advanced, unless he leaves

you in the lurch, and sets off to another part of the coun-
try, where, if he can be found, he can be claimed , and the
authorities will then assist in taking him back. The rate
of wages at present is about 1s. 6d . a day, but it is difficult
to get the Indians to remain with you for any length of
time ; and should a demand for labourers spring up by
any considerable increase of the wood business, which in
all likelihood may soon occur, this low rate of wages
could no longer be calculated upon. All this is men-
tioned to show that a party entering into the trade, must
have other hands to depend upon, as the natives can only
be regarded in the light of auxiliaries.
Good trained oxen can be obtained for 45 dollars a pair,
and plenty of steers or bullocks not trained, for 30 dollars
a pair. Horses are numerous and cheap, and, in general,
can be bought at from £3 to £7 each, but in the Prairie
country, where the cattle and horses are bred in great num-
bers, they may be obtained at much lower rates. On the
Pacific side of the Isthmus, mules are plentiful and of a
superior breed.
The measure by which woods are purchased is the
Mexican vara, of which 109 are equal to 100 yards Eng-

lish. A person entering into a contract must look sharp

after the parties with whom he deals , otherwise , he may
be charged with the extreme length, including cracks and
 57

defects, unless the measurement is checked by a clause ex-

pressly disallowing them .
Owing to the want of proper means of trucking the timber
the logs are cut into lengths of from 10 to 14 feet, notwith-
standing they may readily be procured from 30 to 50 feet
of large diameter. The mode of hauling the logs from the
forest to the river, is rather primitive, and reminded us of
a somewhat similar operation in Liverpool, called
66
snigging." An immense pair of wheels 10 or 11 feet
high, resembling those of a timber carriage, although not
so heavy, are made entirely of wood, as no iron could be
got to strengthen them. One end of a log is then lifted up
under a " bolster," and is hauled up and down by a yoke
of 10 or 12 oxen, to the river, in rather a nervous manner.
The cedar tree of Mexico attains a gigantic growth. Its
properties have already been described, and in the opinion
of the writer it is superior, for many purposes , to any
wood of the kind which has yet been imported into Eng-
land. It is said to grow in abundance over many hundred

leagues of the territory of the Republic, even as far to the

northward as Tampico.
From the best information which was procurable it is
probable that the mahogany tree does not grow much to
the northward of Alvarado, but that it is found in various
districts, (some of which have been already noticed) ,
from that place to the Isthmus of Tehuantepec ; it is
known to be plentiful in the adjoining provinces of Ta-
basco, Chiapas, Guatemala, and Yucatan ; and still going
toward the S. E. , until you arrive at the British settle-
ment, in Honduras, which may be termed the head- quarters
of this important trade.
E
 58

It is to be hoped that the Mexican government will

afford every encouragement to this hitherto undeveloped
source of wealth . As yet no tax has been levied upon
the wood which has been exported ; and if the same just
policy is persevered in, and the ports of Alvarado , Tonala-
das, &c . , declared free to foreign vessels, in the same manner
as the Coatzacoalcos, there is every probability that , with
efficient workmen, a valuable timber trade will be es-
tablished in a few years, which would lead to the intro-
duction in the markets of Europe of the numerous rich
productions of this neglected, but magnificent portion
of the North American continent.

THE END.

LONDON :
Myers and Co., Printers, 22, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden.
 84 82 80 79

Iavana

B
A

1.Pmes
21

+20
ulco
Acap
 58

It is to be hoped that the Mexican government will

afford every encouragement to this hitherto undeveloped
source of wealth . As yet no tax has been levied upon
the wood which has been exported ; and if the same just
policy is persevered in, and the ports of Alvarado , Tonala-
das, &c. , declared free to foreign vessels , in the same manner
as the Coatzacoalcos, there is every probability that , with
efficient workmen, a valuable timber trade will be es-
tablished in a few years, which would lead to the intro-
duction in the markets of Europe of the numerous rich
productions of this neglected, but magnificent portion
of the North American continent.

THE END.

LONDON :
Myers and Co., Printers, 22, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden.
 96 97 96 95 94 93 92

24

Tampico
22
Laguana de
Tamiagua

21
VE

20
co
pul
Aca
 THE

· MAHOGANY TREE :

ITS BOTANICAL CHARACTERS, QUALITIES AND USES, WITH

PRACTICAL SUGGESTIONS FOR SELECTING AND CUTTING
IT IN THE REGIONS OF ITS GROWTH,
IN THE

WEST INDIES AND CENTRAL AMERICA,

WITH NOTICES OF
THE PROJECTED INTEROCEANIC COMMUNICATIONS OF

PANAMA, NICARAGUA , AND TEHUANTEPEC,

IN RELATION TO THEIR PRODUCTIONS , AND THE SUPPLY OF FINE TIMBER FOR

SHIP-BUILDING AND ALL OTHER PURPOSES ;

WITH A MAP AND ILLUSTRATIONS

AND

AN APPENDIX ,

CONTAINING THE DOCUMENTS PRESENTED TO THE

LLOYD'S COMMITTEE OF REGISTRY,

IN FAVOUR OF

THE USE OF MAHOGANY ,

FOR THE BUILDING OF FIRST-CLASS VESSELS.

LIVERPOOL :
ROCKLIFF AND SON , 50 , CASTLE STREET .
LONDON :
EFFINGHAM WILSON, 11, ROYAL EXCHANGE .