Complete metallization course

Well, in this course we will teach you step by

step, how to do metallization on many types of
surfaces.

Table of contents:
- 1- Observations
- 2- Difference between treatment of parts to be
metallized
- 3- Elaboration of a quality piece
- 4- Metallization step by step
- 4.1- TOP Varnish Applications
- 5- How to collect water through the deionizer
- 6- Chemical imbalance

1- Observations.

There are some observations on metallization that

need to be clarified:

1 - Good quality metallization is not

performed with poor quality water.
2 - Good quality metallization is not
performed with static on the part.
 3 - Good quality metallization with chemical
imbalance is not performed.

2- Difference between the treatment of the parts to

be metallized.
The piece to be metallized does not need to be
painted, nor does it need to have a defined color,
since the chemicals used in metallization by
themselves will transform the piece into a
reflected object ...
However, there is always a 1st and 2nd quality
material.
For a piece that is only metallized, it will not have
the same quality as a piece that is carefully
prepared to be metallized and marketed.

But what is the difference?

Ex:
A part that I'm only going to do a test or even a
demonstration, I don't need to spend
unnecessarily, preparing the part for maximum
quality. But each piece needs at least one coat of
PU varnish to smooth the piece.
3- Elaboration of a quality piece.
Now, I will prepare a piece that I will sell, this
preparation will give a softer and more reflective
metallization.
So what's the secret?
To obtain a metallization with high gloss,
reflection and smoothness, follow the steps below:
The preparation of the part has to be the same as
that of an automotive paint, prepare the part by
sanding if necessary, apply a primer if
necessary ... Sand everything with 1500 or 2000
grit sandpaper for maximum smoothness. Apply a
black PU paint like painting a car,

then let it dry according to the manufacturer's

specifications or to the best of your
knowledge. Then apply a PU varnish to bring
out the gloss and give it more uniformity, let it
dry according to the manufacturer's
specifications, or to the best of your
knowledge. There your piece is perfect to be
metallized in a professional way and with the
highest quality.

4- Metallization step by step. 1º Wash the

piece well with good quality neutral detergent,
plenty of water (if possible, deionized) and a
very soft sponge, to remove any residue and
possible grease from the piece, always using
rubber or surgical gloves.

2º eliminate the static as follows: The easiest and

most accessible is to expose the part to the
presence of a surfactant. The ideal is to dilute a
minimum fraction of pure surfactant (5gr) in one
liter of deionized water. If you cannot find a
surfactant, use neutral detergent (100 ml), diluted
in (500 ml) of deionized water.
After preparing the solution, immerse the part
and then remove all presence of this solution with
deionized water and air. If stubborn stains are
present, rub toilet paper on the

local. This action should be resolved. (not being

able to submerge the piece, put the solution in an
atomizer, apply by spraying many times over the
piece, and let it drip for about 10 seconds. Then
wash with a deionized water gun until all the
solution is eliminated. Or with a 2 liter pet with
deionized water, throw it until all the residue of
the product is eliminated.
3º Now apply the surface activator solution to the
entire piece, do not leave any piece that is not
applied, since this solution is responsible for the
adhesion of the silver on the surface of the piece.

NOTE: This part of the process can be performed

in two ways:
1 - gun
2 - By immersion
Both forms of application are
equally efficient.

Concept: The visual characteristic of this process

is the creation of a uniform, level film. No
bubbles and/or imperfections may appear in this
film. If the application is slow and ineffective, it is
probably due to static on the part. (see above how
to eliminate static)

4º Again with the deionized water gun, wash

again the whole piece to eliminate all the excess
of surface activator of the piece.

5 Take the double gun, activate the trigger and

then place the part to be metallized right in the
center of the spray. This center should be about 20
cm from the gun nozzles. Note that the metallic
reaction occurs almost immediately, opening the
reflex. Another thing to mention is that
metallizing is different from painting. You should
maintain the gun position until you notice the
reflective factor of the plating and proceed to the
points of the part that have not yet reached this
stage.

6º Spray a little of the antioxidant solution

(thickener) and let it drain for another 5 seconds.
7º Wash everything abundantly with the deionized
water gun.
8º Next, enter the air gun to remove all moisture
from the piece.

NOTE: Final drying should preferably be done in

an oven. Or naturally, in a place free of dust,
humidity and traces of mold.
9º Once the piece is completely dry, apply the Top
varnish to finish the piece.
There, your part is ready.

4.1- Application of TOP Varnish.

The first thing to consider when

finishing the piece is the expected result. There
are several types and prices of thermal varnishes
on the market. I always recommend my customers
to use Auto Solid automotive PU coatings. The
more solids in the coating, the stronger and more
expensive it will be. Then evaluate the need to use
expensive varnishes on parts that are not as
demanding.
Application: Primer only by spraying.
Wait 10 to 20 minutes
Second coat pulling gloss

The formula
 This is undoubtedly the greatest secret of
recent times, the metallization formula. Here
you will learn how to make the metallization
formula, the chemicals used and where to
buy. Chemical products used:
- SILVER NITRATE P.A.
- SODIUM HYDROXIDE
- AMMONIA HYDROXIDE P.A.
- ANYXICA GLUCOSE P.A.
- STANNOUS CHLORIDE P.A
- CHLORIDIC ACID P.A
- GOOD QUALITY NEUTRAL DETERGENT
- GOOD QUALITY ANTIOXIDANT
SHAMPOO Note: Always use deionized
water to make the solutions, never use tap
water in any way. You can easily find all
these chemical products in Mercado Livre
and others in construction materials and
pharmacies near your home.
 Antioxidant solution
(thickener)
Dilute in a container with 300ml of deionized
water, 100ml of antioxidant shampoo, mix
moderately but constantly until smooth, put in a
spray bottle and ready.

Solution for activation and sensitization of the

part:
Place in a glass or glass Becker (the container
must be glass and extremely clean), 1.5 Grams of
Tin Chloride, add 50 to 60 ml of deionized water
and 15 ml of Hydrochloric Acid at 33 or 37% to
dissolve all the Tin while stirring lightly for a few
seconds. Put this solution in a gallon and add
deionized water little by little until completing 1
liter.
Your activating solution is ready.
Note: this solution must stand for 12 hours before
being used, and once ready its validity is 2 days.
 Metallizing solution:
Solution (A):
Put in a bottle, it can be plastic, but very clean if
possible wash with deionized water, 900 ml of
deionized water and 5 grams of SILVER
NITRATE, take a syringe or dropper and take out
about 15 ml of AMMONIUM
HYDROAMMONIUM HYDROID, drip little by
little into the bottle, you will notice that it will
turn brown or black, drip more until the solution
becomes transparent again.
In a Becker put 100ml of deionized water and 10
grams of SODIUM HYDROXIDE, stir until the
powder or stones are dissolved, after completely
dissolving the powder and stones, pour this
solution into the bottle where the SILVER
NITRATE is, you will see that it will turn brown
or black again, drip again AMMONIUM
HYDROXIDE until all the solution becomes
transparent again.After this solution is completely
dissolved, pour this solution into the bottle where
the SILVER NITRATE is, you will see that it will
turn brown or black again, drip again
AMMONIUM HYDROXIDE until the whole
solution becomes transparent again.
Solution (A) is ready and can now be used.

Solution (B):
Place in a bottle, it can be plastic, but very clean if
possible wash with deionized water, 500 ml of
deionized water, 30 grams of ANY GLUCOSE
(Dextrose), Stir until the solution is homogenized,
after being properly homogenized add to the few
and always stirring more deionized water to
complete a liter.
Solution (B) is ready and can now be used.

NOTE: after solutions A and B are ready, I do not

recommend using them after 12 pm, after that
time, discard them and make another one, so it is
good not to do it in excess so as not to waste
material and if possible make the amount that
goes. use immediately ...
I recommend that you prepare solution B first and
then solution A.
Now just follow the course step by step.
Good work and success!
 OBS:
Very important....
Use P.A. quality products
Try to do the work in a dry and ventilated place
with temperatures above 20º.
Preferably use an oven to dry the parts after
metallization and varnishing.
Always use water with PH 0 . must be equal to
zero .
Always try to use 1 container for each chemical
and always use them later so that it is good to
mark.
Avoid direct contact with the part in the process to
avoid static on the part (always wear rubber or
silicone gloves).
Do not touch the metallized part, even when it is
completely dry, as this may damage the silver.
Total manipulation, only after finishing with
varnish and completely dry.
NOTE: I advise you to leave the piece after
metallized and dried with compressed air, 20
minutes exposed to strong sunlight and then + 20
to 30 minutes in an oven of 50 to 60 degrees.
GOOD JOB!
Do not forget to use protection.