CITADEL MENIATURES eee el Miniature Fieuies for the Gameranc Collector, )CITADEL MINIATURES A Division of Games Workshop Ltd. 10 VICTORIA STREET, NEWARK, NOTTS. TEL: 0636 77495 Dear Customer, Welcome to the new Citadel ran; This catalogue represents a major turning point in Citadel’s history! Most of you will be familiar with ovr “Fantasy Tribes’ concept of individualised models, we are nowapplying that concept to our entire range. We have recoded our range into groups of the same type of figure, and will be working through the codes individualising existing models and adding completely new individualised figures as we go. For instance; code CO]: Fighters lists 20 models, in fact we have made at least six variations of costume, head, sliteld, weapon o equipment for each of these models; just like we did with our Fantasy Tribe Goblin range. We will periodically change the varieties of individualised models supplied with each code, to give you a constantly changing supply of new Fantasy figures. Lhope that you are as excited by the prospect of literally thousands of new models appearing from Citadel over the next year as we are? Best Wishes Citadel Miniatures Ha Bryan Ansell General Manager MAIL ORDER CHARGES UK: Please add 50p p&p (post free over £10.00). Overseas: Please add 50% p&p (£1.00 minimum). Please make all cheques/POs payable to GAMES WORKSHOP Ltd. CITADEL MINIATURES IN NORTH AMERICA North American customers please note that Citadel Miniatures may not be ordered from England. The following licenced manufacturers. produce Citadel Miniatures in North America, Please contact them for current catalogues: USA: Citadel Miniatures US Inc., PO Box 12352, Cincinnati, Ohio 45212. (Traveller and RuneQuest figures are not available for sale in the USA.) Canada: RAFM Company, PO Box 62, Paris, Ontario, N3L SE, Canada RuneQuest”” miniawures are manufactured under licence from Chaosium Ine., USA, RuneQuest™ is Chaosium Ine’s trade mark for its fantasy role-playing game. Traveller" miniatures are manufactured under'licence from Game Designers’ Workshop Inc, Traveller is Game Designers’ Workshop Inc’s trade mark for its science fiction role-playing game. Ral Partha miniatures are manufactured under licence from Ral Partha Enterprises Inc, USA.C01 FIGHTING MEN = 40p each CO1/1 FIGHTING MEN ter in Plate Armour with word (FAL) b) Barbarian with Two-Handed Sword (FA9) ¢) Left-Handed 4) Fighter swinging Sword (FS46) ©) Fighter 01/2 PALADINS & GOODLY KNIGHTS OF LAW =a) Paladin in “Full Sword (FA10) ) Plate with Paladin in Full Chainmail Rotund Paladin 6) Knight Errant (FS48) e) Knight of Law CO1/3 FEMALE & AMAZONS: a) Female Fighter in Breastplate with Sword (FA19) b) Amazon with Sword (PAZ ¢) Fat Lady Fighter d) Female Paladin ¢) Female Fighter in Plate Armour GHTERS CO1/4 WARRIORS OF CHAOS a) Anti-Paladin (FA24) =) Anti-Hero (FA33] ¢) Chaos Warrior d) Chaos Warrior with Two-Handed Weapon ¢) Female Chaos WaC02 WIZARDS, —40p each CO2/1 WIZARDS: a) Wizard with Rod Al) with ¢) Wizard Dagger (FS2) CO2/2 YOUNG WIZARDS a) Wizard with Staff >) Wizard with Wand ¢) Wizard with Rod 4) Wizard with Amulet c) Wizard casting Spell 02/3 FEMALE WIZARDS a) Female Wizard with Statf (FA15) b) Sorceress (FA23) c) Nubile Young Enchantress with V d) Elder ) Adventuring Wizardess CO2/4 EVIL WIZARDS 2) Evil Wizard (FA21) mancer (PA25) Spell Scroll ©) Sorcerer of ChaosC03 CLERICS = 40p each co3/1 CLERICS a) Cleric with Cross and Mace (FA3) b) Cleric swinging Hammer ¢) Bishop with Fail a) Priest with Clubs c) Cleric with Staff 03/2 FEMA\ a) Amazon (FA28) b) Female Cleric with Mace (FA18) ¢) Female Cleric in Plate Armour 4d) High Priestess casting Spell €) Warrior Priestess 03/3 EVIL CLERICS J-a) Evil Cleric in Plate Armour (FA22) b) Priest) of Chaos with War Mace ¢) High P: 4) Brawny Esil Priest ec) Evil High Priestess in F Armour CO4 THIEVES —40p cach Co4/I THIEVES: wa) Thief with Dagger (FA) b) Thief with Short Sword @ lub @ ° Broadsword f with Dagger 11 (FAQ0) om Thief (FS44) d) Young Female Thief with Cube c) Female Master Thieto CO4/3 ASSASSIN a) Assassin with Sword (FAL2/F P48) b) Assassin with Bow @ ©) Assassin with Sword and Dagger © dj Master Assassin of Chaos @ ¢) Female Assassine @ AVAILABLE MARCH '83 C05 SPECIALISTS, —40p each C05/1 MARTIAL ARTS MONKS a) Monk with Staff (FS45) b) Monk with Bo Stick (FA7) ¢) Mistress of the Martial Artse d) Monk with Naginata @ 05/2 DRUIDS a) Druid with Sickle (F b) Druid attacking with Sicklee c) Druidess @ d) High Druid with Rune- Hammer @ C05/3 RANGERS a) Ranger with Sword and Bow (FAS) b) Female Ranger (FASO) ¢) Tracker @ d) Ranger with Axce 09/4 BARDS 4) Bard with Sword Lute (F.A6) b) Female Bard @ ¢) Master Bard @ 4d) Dashing Young Bard @ AVAILABLE MAY '83GO6 DWARF ADVENTURERS C07 DWARF WARRIORS ONE CO8 DWARF WARRIORS TWO = 40p each — 40p each = 40p each CO6/1 DWARF FIGHTERS CO7/1 POLE WEAPONS: CO8/1 HEAVY WEAPO: a) Dwarf Hero (FAQ a) Dwarf with Spear (FTD1) =a) Dwart with Axe (ETD6) b) Dwwart with Two-Handed b) Dwarf with Pole Axe (FTD3)—b) Dwart with Hammer (FTD7) Hammer (FA15) c) Dwarf in Plate Armour with CO7/2 CROSSBO' CO8/2 SHOCK TROOPS Halberd (F853) ) Dwart with Crossbow (PTD2) a) Dwarf with Heavy Mace(FTD4) d) Dwarf attacking with Hammer.ob) Dwarf with Ax: d Heavy =b) Dwarf in Plate Armour(FTD9) ¢) Female Dwarf Adventurer Grossbow (ITD5) “) Longbowman (1121) (1102/1108) ©) Knight in Chainmail i c) Viking Spearman (1103) (1155/1167/1 168) 6) Viking Swordsman d) Plate Armoured Cavalry (1107/1111) (1500a/1520/1924/1329) 1 ) 4 Winged Hussr (1828) e) Man at Arms with Axe (1128) P16/3 MERCENARIES f) Turkish C 1) Knight in Chainmail with (Landsknechts) (igor iges/1et9/1175/1177) Morning Star (1142) a) Officer (1500) ) Spearman (1153/1157) b) Standard Bearer! Musician h) Crossbawman (1154) (1501/1490) i) Archer (1165) °) eave (1502 7/1498) a) Pikem (1508-1513/1491-1493) ¢) Twortlanded Weapons (1514-1519/1494/1495) {) Crossbowmen (1496/1497) §) Turkish Infantryman (1606-1610) 37BOXED SETS BOX 1 GOLDEN DRAGON ~ £4.50 BOX 2 ELF CHARIOT — £4.50 BOX 3 GOBLIN WAR MACHINE ~ £6.50 HOX 4 THIEVES & ASSASSINS — £9.95 BOX 5 PALADINS — £2.95 BOX 6 SKELETON WARBAND ~ £2.95 BOX 7 WITCHES CAVERN — £2.95 BOX 8 WERECREATURES — £2.95 BOX 9 GHOULS & WIGHTS — £2.95 RAL PARTHA IMPERIAL DRAGON — £19.95 This magnificent figure features some of the finest detail ever seen on a metal figure of any scale.= ee or40 PAINTING YOUR CITADEL MINIATURES: By Peter Armstrong - Games Workshop, Sheffield FOREWORD The techniques described in this article are those J have evolved over five or six years of painting figures. Obviously, because 1 wrote the article, it will be biased towards using these Techniques. Feel free to use your own methods instead of those used here. Above all, don't be afraid to experiment! EQUIPME: Brush Paints Acrylic or Enamel Colours: Red, Yellow, Blue, Green, Coffee Brown, White, Black Thinners Craft Knife Optional: Primer Spray Varnish BRUSHES, Contrary to popular belief, you do not want a double of triple ‘0" brush for painting 25mm or even 13mm figures. A best quality sable brush, either a ‘2" or 3" will be sufficient for most painting needs. Be sure you buy a good brush, though. Anything else will not give the consistent food results that are required. The brush I us¢ is a Windsor & Newton series 3A. These brushes, St the cheaper end of the good brush ranges, are about £1.90 from a good art shop. Don’t be Ied into buying more than 1 good brush, but do buy a couple of cheap brushes, one for dry brushing and one for black washing, If you're going to use 4 brush primer, get a cheap brush for that too. Label the brushes for the purpose they are to be used, and be sure not to confuse the two. The good brush should, when wetted and shaped, have as good a point on it as any tiple ‘0’ brush you'll ever find, and it will be able to hold a lot more paint into the bargain. If you're sure to clean the brush after every painting session, the brush should easily last a year. PAINTS The first rule of painting is never use gloss. TYPE OF PAINT COST PERIOD OF USE DRYING TIME THIN ENAMEL 25p-50p 2.3 months 1-6 hours ‘Thinners ACRYLIC 50p-83 1-2 years 5min-Ihour Water YG AGENT The above chart shows the relative strengths and weaknesses of the two paints most widely used for figure painting, Average costs of the two paints are: Enameis « 39p (Ifumbrol) and ‘Retylics - £1.20 (Liguitex), The more expensive paints are usually the metallic and other ‘special’ colours. Acrylic paints which are cheap and effective are the Polly-s ranges, available from most branches of Games Workshop, These retail for 60p a jar (they are the paints I use at the moment). I generally find that acrylics are the better paint because a) they work out cheaper in the long run, b) they dry fasier than enamels, c) because brushes are cteaned with water, they tend to kecp their point longer, and d) they are @ lot brighter than enamels. Do not mix enamels and acrylics if you have both, as the bases for these paints, oil and water fespectively, do not mix. It is possible to put coats of the two different paints on top of each other, but be sure and wait the maximum drying time (as shown on the chart) before attempting to do this. Also, be sure if using both paints that you do not use the same brush for both. KNIVES Use 2 sharp cutting instrument such’ as a Swenn Morton craft tool, the Xacto no. 1 knife or a surgical scalpel. Be sure and have a collection of spare blades. THINNERS As mentioned in the Paints section, acrylics only need water, so that’s fairly simple to get hold of. For enamels, use turpentine or white spirit.WORK AREA This is quite important. To achieve your best painting results, find somewhere out of the ay of little hands or paws, where things can be left to dry and not be disturbed, Make sure you are comfortable! Switch on the radio or tape deck (not the record deck unless you want coloured vinyl records!) and relax, The area needn't be tidy, but it should be weil lit, you should have ‘enough room 10 work and you should have all the things you're going to'need within arm's reach. Lay several Ad sized sheets of scrap paper (I use an old tabloid newspaper cut in hall) on the area where you are going to paint. This serves three purposes: a) it stops your work surface getting dirty, b) when you are cutting flash from your figures it saves your work surface from knife marks, and c) it can be used as your palette. An example of a standard type work area: BRUSHES / peogop lr’ / / / SCRAP PATER CLEANING YOUR FIGURES When you purchase your Citadel miniatures, they may have a little extra metal on them, around the figure in a line. This is called flash, and is caused by metal seeping out of the sides of the mould, Once a mould has been used a few times, this is impossible to prevent. Use a sharp knife to remove the flash, making sure not to obliterate or cut off anything shouldn't. Always make sure the base is Mlat before painting the figure, Some castings may be darker than others. This doesn't mean there’s anything wrong with the figures, it's just the temperature of re metal when it is poured into the mould, If the temperature is a few degrees too high, the metal will come out darker. This will not affect the painting of your figure in the slightest. Once primed, all the figures are white anyway! STARTING TO PAINT YOUR FIGURE, BLACK WASHING If the figure you are painting is wearing @ lot of armour, it is usually best to ‘black wash'the figure before going on to the next stage of priming, This involves using white spirit, enamel black and one of your cheaper brushes. If you've decided to use acrylics, and you don't want to go to the expense of buying the paint (35p) and the thinners (50p a large bottle) and the extra cheap brush (30p), then you can get a reasonable substitute with liquid boot polish Wipe the boot polish onto the figure with a duster or tissue and wipe off the excess. If you're using the paint use the lid of the tin to get a thimed (half thinners, half paint) black spirit. Spread the paint liberally on the area to be black washed, Leave the figure for five minutes, then wrap it in a tissue and wipe off all the excess wash through the tissue. The resultant effect is of metal armour fading into black at the deepest points, and any detail the armour may have is clearly depicted. If you've used the boot polish method then you should have the same effect. If you don’t have faith in your own ability to paint the other arcas without splashing this area, vamish it now (sce VARNISHING), as it’s a lot easier to clean paint off a varnished surface than it is to clean a pianted one. If you want the armour to have an extra shine, scrape the top layer of metal in the areas you require to be shiny.PRIMING Lf the figure you're painting has been black washed (see above) then use an enamel white for priming. Cover the parts which you don’t want to show through as metal in white paint and leave it to dry. If you did not blackwash the figure, either use the above method or use a spray, and use the above method or use a spray primer and cover the figure from head to foot in white. This is necessary because unprimed figures give duller colours, and sometimes it can discolour the paint. Be sure no detail is obscured when you prime the figure. Leave the primer to dry for about a day. BLOCKING Blocking is the basic painting technique that everyone uses to paint figures: Dip your brush in the paint, going no more than halfway up the bristles of the brush, and pull your brush in light sirokes across the surface of the figure. Never push your brush as this results in bent bristles, Again, make sure: you don’t obscure any surface detail. If you're painting anything organic, let the edges fade, if it's non organic, then keep the edges erisp and conform str to the detail of the figure. When blocking, use a darker shade than you require for the final effect. If you are unsure about what colours to use, consult the following table. YHE COLOUR CHART PLE | BLUE| GREE COLOUR | BLACK | BROWN YELLOW| ORANGE) RED | WHITE FIRST Dark Navy | Dark |coLour| Black | Brown | Indigo | Blue | Green | Coffee | Brown | mson] Grey DRY. BRUSH | Grey | Brown | Purple | Blue | Green | Yellow | Orange | Red | White mieH. Yellow White Yel- LIGHT. | White | White | White [White] Yellow] White | White | low | White For highlighting it is the base colour + the colour mentioned DRY BRUSHING This is where your second cheap brush comes into use. Dip it into the paint and then wipe most of it off again on your newspaper. Wipe it gently until the paint leaves no mark on the paper. Then wipe the brash across the area you wish to dry brush. This will deposit the lighter shade only on the raised areas of the figure. The edges of these areas you will also find have blended with the underlying Colour. For this process to work, the coat below that you wish 10 drybrush must be fully ry. HIGHLIGHTING Pick out the areas you wish to stand out. Usually these will be in the middle of the areas you have just drybrushed. Mix your paint to a shade lighter than the one you have on the figure, and highlight that area, blending it at the edges with the colour below. This takes a bit of practice, but with time you should get the effect you require. BLENDING If you haven't got the effect you require using the above techniques, you can try to blend the paint while it’s still wet, Put new coats of paint in the areas you require and blend them using your brush, until you cannot see where one colour ends and the other begins. BLACK LINING If the creases and joins on the figure don’t look dark cnough, use your brush to finely line the creases and joins. This gives the effect of deepening the crease SPECIAL TECHNIQUES FOR SI FIG AREAS FLESH Flesh is a special case, ‘The colour to use is buff or tan, and lighten it using white. Cover the flesh areas with this colour, and, while still wet, add darker areas of pure buff and blend them in, Get a fully blended effect if possible.‘THE PACE. Paint your face in basic Mesh colour as described above, ‘Then paint the rest of the head as follows’ . Fig. 1 Vig2 Paint in the buff areas first as shown in figure 1. Then paint in the eye ovals in avery light grey (not white). Paint in the eyes ina dark blue or grey forhumans, any colour for non-humans. the iris and spot the cye with white to show its reflective nature, If the monster is , you may’ wish to paint it a pure white with black outlines, Highlight the cheeks and nose as shown and then put in the eyelids in light flesh, and underline the eyes in buff as shown in fig, 2. Paint in the hair on the beard, moustache and eyebrows the same colour as the hair on the head. Don’t forget to do any hair the figure may have on its arms and legs, Paint in the hair and deybrush it with a lighter colour, as shown on the colour chart, Pai FINISH \G OFF VARNISHING When the figure is completely dry, 1 would recommend a couple of coats of varnish if you intend to use the figure tor gaming. If the figure is for diplay only, this is not required. The best finish is a matt finish, and for this you can either use a/um brol spray or tin,or Letracote, a spray which is very hardwearing, but costs about £5.00 a can, Humbrol costs about £1.50 a can, or 35p a tinlet. If you do use the brush onvarnish, be sure you wash your brush very thoroughly. € EANING This is the last for a lon ingle most important stage in the whole process. ‘To ensure that your brushes time, you must wash your brushes thoroughly every time you change colour. Use a jar with a deep lid for your thinners, and empty a small amount of thinners into the lid, Use this rather than messing up your whole jar, Drown your brush, and then wipe it on the tissue until it is dry. EPILOGU. Just remember, the painter's watchword is EXPERIME VATION 43BASIC FIGURE CON) RSIONS No matter how vast the ratige of commercially availbable figures grows, there will always be gaps that the figure manufacturing Industry will never be able to Till. The reasons for this vary from lack of commercial vaibility to the limitations inherent in the production process If you are one of those people that require a specific figure that scems forever unobtainable, or a currently available figure in a different pose, then there are three options open to you! a) Build a figure from seratch b) Convert from existing figures. €) Get somone else (0 do either a) or b) for you, What follows is an introduction into option b). ESSENTIAL TOOLS AND MATERIALS Before you can do any converting, there are certain basic items which you will require. All ‘hose that you will need are relatively inexpensive, and quite easy to obtain. If your local mode! or hardware shop does not stock any of those given in the following list, look through the advertisements. (including the classified columns) in the modelling press, and you will find a mail order supplier. 1) RAZOR SAW - this is the best instrament for performing drastic surgery on white metal figures, - 2) PIN VISE - this item is vital to the process of joining together those parts you have dimembered with the Razor S: 3) DRILLS FOR2 - the sizes you will re 4) NEEDLES FOR 2 - these are ordinar Mother Wife/Gisliriend, 5) \ CHEAP SET OF NEEDLE FILES - white metal clogs and eventually ruins fine files, so get a cheap set that you won't mind replacing periodically. 6) MODELLING KNIFE OR SCALPEL 7) NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS. 8) WIRE CUTTERS, 9) ADHESIVES - the type of glue that you will require mostis the Five Minute Two Part Epoxy Adhesive, You may also use Cyanoacrylate Adhesive (Superglue) but thisis only cffcctive shen you have relatively large areas with good surfece to surface contact to stick together, 10) FILLER - for all practical purposes, the only filler that meets the requirements of figure converters is MILLIPUT two part epoxy putty 11) SANDPAPER OR EMERY CLOTH - a pack of i most chain stores is quite adequate. 12) FUSE WIRE OR FLORISTS WIRE - the best wire for converting purposesis the Florist’s type as used in flower arranging, but if this is not available, then fuse wire will prove more than adequate. houschold needles that you can steal or beg from xed grades such as is available in ATL LI POT - TTT “ ZB 10 = 12 44CHOP AND SWAP. The removal of a part from one figure and its replacement by a part from another fi what forms the basis for the vast majority of figure conversions, The techniques involved in changing over bits of different figures are essentially the same, whether you are swapping over a hand or a complete upper torso, ‘The same techniques can also be used to drastically change the pose that figures are in, The simplest things to swap are heads and hands, and it is the latter that I shall use a ple in technique. STAGE 1 ~ Remove the hand that you wish to rep with a modelling knife. Repeat the same operation on replacement ( and seore the surface of the cut STAGE 2. Drill a hole in the stub of the 4 all hole with a needle first this will make the drilling much easier. Using Two Minute Epoxy Glue affix a length of wire into the hole, At this stage the wire should be fonger than needed. Repeat the drilling operation on the replacement hand, STAGE 3- Trim down the wire in small stages, fitting the hand on the wite at each stage. When you are satisfied that the hand is in corrcet relationship to the wrist, glucit into position, Remember that when you removed the hands, excessive material may have had to be lost, and that the correct place for the parts may not necessarily be where they are Louching cach other.STAGE 4 If you have been incredibly fortunate, everything will have fitted together perfectly and no more work will be required, but it is more likely that some filing and filling will be necessary. File the area around the join to the shape shown in the drawing, and then score it as you did the cuts in Stage 1, Mix some MILLIPUT and apply it around the area of the join. While the putty is still fresh, remove and excess with a damp cloth, The setting time of the MILLIPUT can be shortened by putting it in a warm place, c.g. in front o} ‘or on top of a tadiator, DO NOT LET METAL FIGURES BECOME HOT AS THEY 7 SE eT es, 5 ee =i STAGE 5 - It is best when swapping Figure parts to make your cuts where surface detai minimal, but the destruction of detail is sometimes unavoidable. The types of detail which are most often wiped out by converting are chain mail, hair and fur. These are quite simple to model using the MILLIPUT you have used in Stage 4. The notes and illustrations below are the best way of showing you how to achieve these lextures on your figures, MAIL Wait till Milliput has cured to a stiff consistency Smooth the surface of the Milliput Make a series of diagonal cuts Make another scries of cuts crossing the first series at 90 degroes With a needle, make a series of holes in between the cuts, ‘as you remove the needle apply a slight amount of downwards pressure. ‘This operation requires a very light touch, but with a little practice you should soon master it 46HAIR Simply make a series of long unbroken cuts in the direction the hair grows, ACCESSORIES ‘Such items as packs and weapons can usually be removed from one figure and applied to another without too much trouble. For larger items a razor saw is the best implement to use. Do not try to remove the item with a cut from one direction, but rather make a series of cuts from different angles that will meet in the middle. Smaller items, such as sword scabbards, should be removed by a seties of gentle cuts, Before affixing to another figure, clean up the edges of the cuts with a file or fine sandpaper. The adhesive to use for these purposes is the superglue type. A recent boon to the converter are the seperate heads, hands and weapons that are availal from Citadel Miniatures, These not only save time, but save you the expense of purchasing a complete figure just to obtain a spare head or arm. If you drop them a line enquiring what is available, and include a stamped addressed envelope, they will send you a complete list of all their spate If there are specific figures you would like to see conversion articles on, then write to me, care of Citadel Miniatures, and | will see what 1 can do next time round, WARNING: Take care when using razor saws and scalpels as particularly nasty cuts can result (these items are very sharp) if you should slip. REMEMBER, make all cuts away from yourself. TONY ACKLANDORDERING CITADEL MINIATURES BY POST RICK PRIESTLY CITADEL MAIL ORDER Hello! Welcome to our latest catalogue of model figures. Now, with any luck, you can go down to your local Citadel stockist and see for yourself just how good our new figures are and choose your favourite variants from our new individualised ranges. But we realise that customers live beyond the casy reach of their nearest retailer. Fortunately for the deepest, dankest recesses of Citadel lurks our Mail Order Department, And wwe'e rather proud to say’ that we provide what we regard as the very best possible mail order service for our customers. Most mail is dispatched within 24 hours of receiving it - Priority Order Forms are always returned that same day! Every order comes with all our latest inform- ation sheets and special offer order forms. MIbin-all, we are happy to say, we try our best, and that’s why throughout the length and breadth of the country our figures can be found down dungeons and on tabletops - and that’s why Citadel remains Britain's most popular supplier of fantasy figures Ordering by post is simple! Please use order forms if you have them, otherwise neat copies - remember we will need to know the quantity, code and price of the figures you require. We are always happy to send you more order forms and information on receipt of a S.A.E. Please make cheques payable to Games Workshop Ltd. not Citadel Miniatures. Ensure your cheque is made out correctly and please don't forget to include it in with your order! Write your address clearly on the for jerwise we won't know where to send your model: When ordering, please specify the code number of the model you require - eg. CO1/3e (fat Lady Fighter). Of course because of our special individualised figure concept there wi be several different versions of this figure . .. with different hats, weapons and hairstyles etc. We will be constantly remodelling each variant as models wear out - so specific variants will only be available for afew months, This will further add to the individualisation of our models, making them both more interesting and collectable... | If you require a specific variant - for instance the Fat Lady Fighter with Viking Helmet and Shield, then we will uy our best, but if this version should be unavailable we will substitute one of the current variants instead. Sometimes Mail Order runs into problems... ! Not very often I hasten to add. If you hear nothing within two weeks of sending your order then please try to keep a record of the date you sent orders as this makes it easier for us to find. It maybe that your order never reached us or that it has been lost on its way to you - as sometimes happens, or figures may have been broken in the post. Either way we will deal with your enquiries as quickly and as successfully as possible. Occasionally you may receive orders containing figures that are in some way dis- coloured, often in exciting metallic browns or purples - this is an unavoidable result of our casting methods, which utilise special alloys not used by other manufacturers. ‘The result is that wwe can make much more detailed figures - but occasionally they are inclined to discolour as they are cast. This in no way effects the figures quality and it can be painted in the normal way. Consequently we are unable to replace figures which are merely discoloured. If you live abroad and you would like to order our figures please remember that payment should be in the form of a cheque for Stirling drawn on a British bank - your own bank will be glad to help you make the arrangements, Foreign orders are sent by surface mail - air mail would cost more than the figures! Please allow longer for foreign mail to reach you. Well I think that’s all I want to bother you with, Remember our Mail Order department is always ready and willing to deal with any queries or suggestions you have. Thanks everybody for all the mail and all the ideas and drawing you've sent in to date. Keep it up! We've already staried to run a regular design competition in response to your suggestions - and we hope you'll compete. Cheers!COMING SOON... ax Over the nest year we will be st through our existing range existing range individustising all the models. .\t the same time we will also be keeping up our sual stream of completely new figures, many of these will be intergrated into our existing codes, but there will be some entirely new codes, Planned for the near future are , Lizardmen . . Kobolds, Elves Half Elves More Diorama Sets Halflings Half Ores. Gnomes, Ogres Warriors of Chiaus . . More 25mm SF... . More 15mm SI 15mm Vehicles. 2... More RuneQuest Sets. . More Speciality Sets, Our long-awaited Fantasy Bartle Rules Warhammer’ by Richard Huliwell oo0npo0oo0o000000000 A set of Spaceship Rules ‘Rogue Trader” by Rick Priestly, with special range of Spaceship Models a We'd be very interested to know what you think of the above ideas for ranges, and would be grateful if you would give each one 4 score oul OF 10 in the box provided. Bringing owt new models at the rate we do makes ii evry diffieull 10 keep our catalogue up date, so every month we bring out sheets giving information on what's new and what's pinned, Wf you would like to join our mailing list, and receive monthly. information, just fill in your name and address in as many of the boxes overleaf us you wish, and attach 4 postage stamp. to cach one. We will use these us Labels 10 address y our envelupes.Stamp Stamp Address. Address 1 | I - | Le H i ! samp |) Stamp ! —— I Address Address — “ i} f | l i Stamp Stamp Address | | | i |] Address. L LStart your Adventure at GAMES WORKSHOP Specialists in Science Fiction, Fantasy and War Games and leading stockist of Citadel iatures. Come and see our beautifully painted ranges of Citadel figures in illuminated display cabinets, along with our vast range of games at our following branches: Games Workshop, Unit 37, Birmingham Shopping Centre, Birmingham 82. Tel: 021 6324804 Games Workshop, 95 The Moor, Sheffield. Tel: 0742 750114 Games Workshop, 162 Marsden Way, Arndale Centre, Manchester, Tel: 061 8326863 Games Workshop, 412 Broadwalk, Broadmarsh Centre, Nottingham, Tel: 0602 585744 Games Workshop, 1 Dalling Road, Hammersmith, London we. Tel: 01 741 3445 All our games (not figures) are available through our fast and efficient mail order service. For our latest 64 page illustrated games catalogue describing over 400 games and accessories with some 150 photographed, plus introductory literature, just send a large stamped (20p} addressed envelope plus 50p in stamps/cheques/PO’s to: Games Workshop Ltd., 27/29 Sunbeam Road, London NW10 (Tel: 01-965 3713).CO} BUND) HU ON We MENS OS) LOVIETORES SERIE a