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16th Century

Renaissance

Renaissance Beginning of modern period of history

It was called the Renaissance, which lasted from the late 14th century to the 16th century. It was called the Renaissance because Europe saw a rebirth of learning, arts and culture that has not been seen during dark ages. Expanding trades created wealth and industries, which fuelled creation of wealthy middle class, creation of first printing press, invention of new technologies revolutionized agriculture allowing growth of population.

Rise of Monarchies and Protestants


Almost all the areas of Europe became unified and organized during this period and the consolidation of power went in the hands of monarchs ruling large kingdoms or nations. The most powerful force behind the decline of the catholic church was a historical event called the protestant Reformation by Martin Luther and creation of new religion protestants. Because of this religious conflict not the pope but king became head of the Church increasing the authorities of the rulers.

16th century clothing


Most extravagant and splendid period in costume history. Modern idea of fashion influenced what people wore leading to trends, styles, trendsetters that are characteristics of modern fashion. Textile and fashion industries were at their boom. Wool production in England and silk production in Italy are important. Powerful kings and queens believed fashion as one of the ways to display power.

Bases
Bases were a form of skirt, worn by upper-class members of the military. These bases replaced the hoses and breeches. They were made of stiff, heavy cloth and consisted of panels of fabric, often in alternating colors. Men wore form fitted leg stockings beneath the bases. These skirts were worn during military reviews when European used to show-off their strength.

Bombast
Bombast was a form of stuffing made from cotton, wool, horsehair or even sawdust. It was used to pad and shape to a variety of garments, including the shoulders, chest, and stomach of the doublet. They were used in bulky legs of mens hose called pumpkin breeches or the sleeves or shoulders of womens gown.

Codpiece
The hosiery of the time consisted of two separate stockings that covered the legs but left an opening at the top that exposed the wearers genitals. To preserve modesty and protect the genitals medieval tailors invented the codpiece. The codpiece was a flap or pouch of fabric sewn at top of mens hose to hide his genital from view. From modesty piece codpiece became a fashion statement. Codpiece grown larger and more decorative and became a way to advertise ones masculinity.

Priests and other clergy were horrified by this style, Queen Elizabeth also didnt appreciate this example of male vanity so codpiece disappeared very soon

Farthingales
A farthingale was a series of stiff hoops usually made or metal sewn into a fabric underskirt. It was anchored at the waist and worn beneath a skirt to give the outer skirt a distinct shape.

First farthingale were born in Spain in 1470 and were called vertugados.

Farthingale a raise
Farthingale became a rage in France and England in this century. Many women wore two skirts over the farthingale with outermost skirt parted in front to reveal the contrasting middle skirt. Women started experimenting a lot with their farthingale.

Drum Farthingale
These r called French wheel or drum farthingale, it used a series of identically round interior hoops, giving it a cylindrical or drum shape.. The outer skirt fitted closely at the waist and spread out over the farthingale in a cascade of folds. They added a padded role around their waist.

Bell Farthingale
This farthingale used a combination of padding and hoops to give the skirt a large bell shaped profile.

But this farthingale fashion faded very soon because of its complexity.

Gowns
The 16th century another complex ensemble known by the simple term Gown. The lavish gowns worn by women from this period were made from three distinct parts. Bodice Skirts Sleeves These gowns depicted in great detail in the many surviving paintings from the period.

Bodice
Bodice covered the torso and was similar to mens doublet which used to be double layered. The neckline opening revealed much of the shoulders and crossed the chest just above the breasts.

By the end of the century necklines had grown very daring, revealing the womens cleavage. Most often the area above the neckline was filled with chemise, a light transparent fabric that rose to the neck and often ended in and attached highly decorated ruff a wide pleated collar. Queen Elizabeth-I was know for her lavish gowns

Stomacher
The front of the bodice were v shaped panel that came to a defined point at or below the waist. This triangular panel were called stomacher., often stiffened with bone or wood and padded with bombast in order to create flat chested appearance.

Skirt
Skirts worn in 16th century were very wide and full. Skirts were made of overlapping panels and used yards and yards of a fabrics. The skirts were given different shapes using bones, hoops, cane or wood.

Sleeves
The final component of the gown was the sleeves. Sometimes they wore attached sleeves but mostly sleeves were made separate and attached with the bodice with small ties. Sleeves varied tremendously in style, from formfitting to puffy, from a simple fabric to intricate panels of several fabrics with laces, ribbons and bows. Many women wore false sleeves, which hung at the sides of the dress.

Aprons and Safeguards


Aprons and safeguards were two garments women used to protect their elaborate gown. Poor women, who might have only one skirt used to wear aprons. Safeguard were worn by wealthy women.

Hose and breeches


Men had choices of wearing hoses, breeches or baggy pants. It was very fashionable to show off the legs' shape so when loved wearing hoses. Knitting in second half of the century gave a new dimension to the hoses.

Trunk hose
Trunk hose was the most common form of breeches. Trunk hose were attached to the bottom of the doublet, and looked like a small puffy skirt. Trunk hoses were also worn with canions, a loose fitting hose for the upper leg known as pumpkin breeches..

Mandilion
Some men late in the century wore a cloak matching with their hose or trunk hoses called mandilion. What made the mandilion unusual was the way it was worn. Instead of wearing on both the shoulders stylish men draped the mandilion over one shoulder, leaving one side hanging down the back. For reasons not known yet but the style is called COLLIE-WESTONWARD.

One of the most distinctive fashion of the century was ruff, a wide pleated collar, often stiffened with starch or wire which stood out like a wheel around the neck. Ruff was used by wealthy so that they held their head up in proud and to give lordly pose. They were narrow as an inch or went 12 wide called millstones or cartwheels. Those who wore wide ruffs had to eat with special spoons. Later European government passed rules to restrict the size of the ruffs.

RUFFS

Medici collar
The Medici collar was name after the queen of France Catherine de Medicis in 1560-1574 This was the ultimate extension of the ruffs. The collar was typically worn with dcollet neckline. This collar is more identified with Queen Elizabeth-I whose great flair for dramatic clothing made her a all time trendsetter.

sleeves
Slleves were either separate or attached with the doublets or gowns. They were kept separate so that can be interchanged. Puffed Panes Padded False

Puffed
They were most common at the top of the sleeve. But series of puffs were also seen.

Pane
These were panels of fabrics that ran the length of the sleeve. They might be in contrasting colors or fabrics and sometimes pleated.

Padded
In the late century padding and stiffening was added to allow sleeves to hold a rounded melon shape to add volume to various parts.

False sleeve

16th century headwear


The hairstyles of this century were driven by the kings. Henry viii of England like short hair so shot hair trend continued. It was very late in the century men began to grow their hair long. The same king like beard so great variety of beards is seen throughout the century. Women continued to wear their hair in a variety of braids, curls, rolls and other forms of wrapping. Metal hairpins were first introduced n women used palisades. Wigs and false hair were also used.

Copotain
One of the most common hats f 16th and 17th century. Generally black in color and made of thick felt It has a medium size brim an a tall rounded crown. Later copotain got associated with conservative puritan hats in British colonies.

Hair coloring
Hair coloring was an obsession among European women. They preferred blond because it was close to gold and least common natural color. To get desired hair colour women used to sit whole day in sun and procured to herself violent headaches and bled almost everyday from their nostrils.

Palisades
Women used to expose more of their hair and started wearing more elaborate hairstyles and headdresses. To create massive hats they used wire cages, these wire structures were called palisades meaning fence. Wires were generally padded to give extra volume and support to strings and jewels and ribbons used to create the elaborate this hairstyles.

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