Personal Adornment

Angelica Chiu | Maxine Chan | Terence Co | Eriza Valeriano | Gian Yap

Basic Facts

Personal Ornaments: The art of beautifying oneself.

Basic Facts

Enhances a part of the wearers body

Signify prestige, rank, status or wealth

Symbolize ritualistic and emotional states

Serves as amulets and charms against evil spirits

Basic Facts
Designs are characterized by:  symmetry and formal proportion  sense of rhythm  distinctive rather than specific emphasis  curve as a prevailing form combined with basic forms  primary colors

Common Materials Used

Ink (Tatoo art)

Carabao Horns and Bones

Common Materials Used

Shells
 New Stone Age/ Neolithic Period  Said to be as long-lasting as diamond  Widely used

Stone
 Neolithic Period  Made into beads, bracelets, and ear and neck pendants

Gold

Common Materials Used

Nephrite/ Jade
 Early and Developed Metal Age  material of which the working tools of prehistoric Filipinos were made  highly valued for its technological and artistic qualities  made into beads, ear pendants and bracelets

Glass Beads
 Earliest glass beads were imported  Most beads unearthed made of glass

Tattoo Art
 permanent body adornment
 symbolizes bearer's accomplishments in life or rank in the tribe  bravery, character, knowledge and prowess in headhunting  type of clothing  enhances physical beauty  drives away evil spirits

Tattoo Art
Ifugao
 kinabu (dog)  tinagu (man)  ginawang and ginayaman (centipede)

Pintados traditional tattooing

 then replaced by anting-anting (amulet) tattoos  with motifs derived from Christianity

Tboli
 hakang  zigzag or geometric and highly stylized animal and human forms  tattooed on the forearm and chests of men and the forearm and calves of women

Tattoo Art
Aeta
 scarification  certain taboos for tattoos efficacy

Prison tattoo
 masculinity, gang membership, way of remembering loved ones, or simply to relieve boredom  commonly used is snake which symbolizes sexual and physical prowess

Tattoo Art

Tattoo on women tends to be purely ornamental, although it may also indicate her status as the headmans wife.

Tattoo Art
 more beautiful  possessing emotional and physical fortitude to endure pain and hardship (i.e. childbirth)  affirmation of strength, spiritual power and procreative endowment  form of clothing  proclaimed their status  form of recognition, allowing the soul to pass into the afterlife
Lane Wilcken (Filipino Tattoos Ancient To Modern)

Costume
 set of garments, hairstyle, and accessories worn by individuals or a group of individuals in a given society  may differ according to sex, class, age, status, occupation, rank, and personal taste  reflects the dominant traditions as well as the values and aspirations of a given people

Costume
Ethnic -> Spanish period -> American period -> Contemporary

Ethnic tradition Men  kanggan  bahaque/bahag  tubular skirts

Costume
Women  saya  no shoes nor underwear but were laden with jewelry  hair was tied up in a knot and decorated with ribbons, flowers, or diadems

Costume
Spanish period Men  salawal  camisa de chino  pantalon Women  barot saya  tapis  pauelo

Costume
American period Men  americana abierta  chaquetilla  camisa de chino or barong tagalog Women  baro-saya-pauelo  vestido or dress

Costume
Contemporary (post WWII)  more casual attire  polo shirts  long sleeved shirts  bell-bottom pants  dresses  T-shirts and denims  jackets, shoes, bags, glasses, underwear

Jewelry
Different Tribes and how they wear Jewelry T'boli women
 more jewelry = more fashionable = more attractive  small bone pieces to hold necklaces in place

Tboli Woman

Jewelry
Kalinga women
 "peacocks" of the Cordilleras  shell butterflies and ear ornaments

Surigao
sashes using the "loop-in-loop" technique
Kalinga Woman

Jewelry
Ifugao
 circular shell disks held with rattan called ginoto (hip ornament)  use wild boar tusks topped with a carved sitting human figure as armlets  use wild boar tusks for necklaces (strung w/ rattan)

Jewelry
Aeta
 finely woven strands of behuco  worn as leglets for strength and stamina

Bagobo - musical jewelry (hollow

brass bracelets)

Bagobo Woman

Jewelry: Types of Earrings

Plug
Bilaan Plug: mirror glass framed by tiny beads Kalinga Plug: front ends covered with embroidered cloth

Graduated ring series / Kawat

ears are pierced 7-8 times to attach brass hoops
Tboli woman with graduated ring earrings

Jewelry: Types of Earrings

Bib Earring / Kowol

 Common among Southern Philippine Tribe  Catches light or quivers Tboli women with bib earrings

Jewelry: Types of Earrings

Chandelier
long tassels of beads threaded on horsehair

Tboli woman with chandelier earrings

Cosmetic Containers
 Maranao gukom traditional container for the aromatic beeswax used for massaging the lower lip  made of carabao horn  has a beaded train handle topped with another piece of carabao-horn carving

Historical Timeline
Pre-hispanic Rule - Gold was prevalent
 Made into: Combs, Earrings, Weapon Handles  Artifacts prove that ancient Fiipinos were great goldsmiths  Art of filigree  Art of granulation

Pre-hispanic Rule - Gold was prevalent

 Greatest proof: gold sashes found in Surigao (loop-in-loop technique)  Manufacturing of filigree jewelry or lacelike in gold and silver

Historical Timeline
Spanish Rule spread of religious images and ornaments used in Catholic rituals

Spanish Rule
 Examples: Crosses, Scapulars and Rosaries  Both religious and political  Veneration of saints through:  Bejeweled religious figurines or enameled in gold  Images of Christ, the Virgin and saints

Historical Timeline
American Rule - streamlined
    Diamond became prevalent Gold-work used as setting (necklace) Emphasis shifted to stones Deterioration of goldsmiths art

Examples of Personal Adornment

Art and Faith Tboli  wears many jewelry to be attractive  also to please the gods Aeta  woven behuco leglets  to give wearer strength, stamina and speed

Art and Faith

Lingling-o - Fertility Pendants of Bontoc, Ifugao and Kalinga

Lingling-o Fertility Pendants

Art and Faith

Tamburin an ornamental form of rosary

Tamburin

Examples of Personal Adornment

Art and Power Tribal tattoos  enhance the beauty of the man or woman  exhibit a mans war record; more tattoos = more war medals

Pintados de Pasi Festival 2010

Examples of Personal Adornment

Art and Power Most tattoed people (Visayans)  Pintados  Islas del Pintados or Island of the Painted People

Pintados festival in Tacloban, Leyte

Examples of Personal Adornment

Art and Power Isneg menhgal necklaces that symbolizes headhunting feat Ilocano alaphor were pendants symbolic of the power of the elite

Art and Power

Bontoc and Ifugao boar-tusk armlets after every successful war expedition

Ifugao Boar-Tusk Armlets

Art and Power

Ifugao Ginut-tu  belt created from perforated-shell discs  can only be worn by the nobility or kadangyan class

Ginut-tu

Examples of Personal Adornment

Everyday Use Abaloryo  latter part of the Spanish period  fine glass beads intended for embellishing garments  inexpensive body ornaments and rosaries for the masses Abaloryo

Everyday Use

Sagay sagay  Musical bracelets of the Manoba and Mansaka  Made of black coral that warned the wearer of danger

Mansaka girl wearing Sagay Sagay

Everyday Use

Scapulars, rosaries and medals with the image of Christ  widespread during the Spanish colonial-era and are still evident today Scapular