Threads Sewing thread are special kinds of yarns. They are engineered and designed to pass through a sewing machine rapidly, to form a stitch efficiently, and to function while in a sewn product without breaking or becoming distorted for at least the useful life of the product. Thread Classification Thread
• Corespun • Air entangled Thread Construction Twist binds fibers together and gives spun yarns or threads strength. Twist is the number of turns per centimeter of thread.
Types of Twists: • Z Twist • S Twist Thread Sizing Yarn count system Fixed weight (Show the no. of unit lengths that give a fixed weight) • Ne(Cotton Count)- Number of hanks of 840 yds per lb. of thread • Nm( Metric Count)- Number of 1000 mtr hanks per kilogram of thread. • Ticket No.- ???? i.e. - higher the number, finer the yarn TICKET NUMBER
Tkt Number in metric system=
Single yarn Nm*3/No. of ply Thread Sizing Fixed length (Show the weight of a given length) • Denier- Wt. in gms of 9,000 mtrs of thread • Tex- Wt. in gms of 1,000 mtrs of thread • Decitex- Wt. in gms of 10,000 mtrs of thread
i.e. - higher the number, coarser the yarn
Count Conversion Methodology • Count to Denier=5315/cotton count • Cotton to metric count= Count*1.69 • Denier to metric=9000/denier • Cotton to Tex=590.5/cotton count • Tex to Metric=1000/Tex Count • Tex to Denier =Tex Count*9 Sewability factors/ Characteristics of good thread Thread strength - adequate strength for end use - by using good quality raw material. Twist balance -optimum twist levels -Twist too high – live thread - starts snarling – forms knots –breaks needles or thread breaks itself -Twist too low – no adequate strength - Looper may not pick up all plies- no stitch formation Fault level -should be minimal Two types sewable – results in bad quality garment non-sewble- stoppage of work Sewability factors/ Characteristics of good thread Lubrication -critical for high speed sewing. -Advantages Protects thread from abrasion. cools the needle while sewing reduces wear and tear of the machine Elongation -should be low and controlled. -If too high – thread starts coming back i.e. puckering -If too low – seam failure Skipped stitches Tenacity - Strength to fineness ratio. - Tenacity = average strength in grams/ count in tex - Higher tenacity – better quality thread. Seam durability
