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 Introduction to Effects of Needle selection

 Introduction to Needle Types
 Introduction to Sewing Thread
 Introduction to Types of Sewing thread
 Introduction to the Requirements of sewing
Effect of Wrong Needle Selection in Garments

Various effects of wrong sewing needle selection in apparel

industry has mentioned in the below:

Effects when the needle is finer than sewing thread

Effects when the thread is finer than needle

Effects when the needle is coarser than required fabric

Effects when the needle is finer than required fabric.

Effect of Wrong Needle Selection in Garments

All the above effects have explained in the following:

1. Effects when the needle is finer than sewing thread:

When the sewing needle is finer than sewing thread then the
thread cannot move easily through the needle eye and thread
will not take position accurately at the needle long groove. As a
result more heat will generate on the needle for higher friction
which ultimately results the thread breakage and garments
production loss.

2. Effects when the thread is finer than needle:

When the thread is finer than sewing needle then it may
produce slipped stitch as the needle can’t create perfect size of
Effect of Wrong Needle Selection in Garments

3. Effects when the needle is coarser than required

When the sewing needle is coarser than required fabric then
fabric will be looked odd due to the larger hole. Here, seam
puckering may produce on woven fabric.

4. Effects when the needle is finer than required fabric:

When the sewing needle is finer than required fabric then the
sewing needle will deflect and become curve with the action of
the throat plate. This type of curve needle will produce
slip stitch as the looper may not catch the loop needle thread.
Types of needle: (on the basis of points)

1. Cloth point: Cloth point needles are for all woven fabric. The cloth point is
especially helpful when sewing straight lines and tasks such as tops stitching.

• Accute point: used for elastics attachments. It is not used for light weight or
medium weight fabric as it may damage the fabric.
• Regular point: it is popularly used needle.
Types of needle:

2. Ball Point: Ball Point is more rounded than Universal, designed to slide
between yarns of knit fabrics without snagging.
Types of needle:
3.Universal needles can be used with woven or knit fabric. The point of a
universal needle is sharp yet very slightly rounded giving it the characteristics of a
sharp and a ballpoint needle.

Special needles:

1. Denim/Jeans
Very sharp point and stiff shank for stitching tightly woven fabrics like denim, canvas
and multiple fabric layers. Also available as a double needle.

2. Hemstitch/Wing
Sewing thread is a smooth, evenly spun, hard
twisted ply yarn, thread by a special finishing
process to make it resistant to stresses in its
passage through the eye of a needle and though
the material involved in seaming and stitching
Requirements of good quality sewing thread:

Good tensile strength holds the stitched seam securely during wash and

Smooth surface and absence of faults ensures less friction between the
needle and the material during high-speed sewing. The thread must be well
lubricated to increase its sew ability and resistance to abrasion.

Uniform thickness / diameter results in an even sewing thread, which moves

smoothly and quickly through the needle eye and the fabric. It also affects
the thread’s tensile strength, resistance to abrasion and its twist
construction. An uneven thread may twist into short knots and jam at the
eye of the needle.

Good elasticity enables thread to recover its original length immediately

after the tension has been released. The elasticity of sewing thread affects
the strength and the finished quality of a stitched seam.
Good color fastness provides immunity to the different agents the thread is
exposed to during manufacture and washing. The thread must hence be
uniformly dyed.

Low shrinkage of the thread being used on the fabric material with higher
shrinkage reduces the chances of seam puckering.

Good resistance to chemical attack is a desirable property for thread used in

garments which may undergo washing, bleaching or dry-cleaning.

Good abrasion resistance ensures a good sewing performance and makes the
thread more durable.
Ticket Number:
Ticket number is a commercial numbering system. It is the manufacturer’s reference numbers
for the size of a given sewing thread. Actually, the size or count of thread is called ticket
number. It is denoted by ticket, Nm, Ne etc. Metric, cotton is the ticket numbering system
followed in readymade garments sector.

Metric Ticket Number:

Metric count or number is the system of ticket numbering. It is denoted by Nm. This is the
number of meters of thread per gram.

For example, one gram of single ply thread is 60m long. So that count or number of that thread
is Nm 60/1. If the thread is double plied then metric ticket number would be Nm 60/2 and also
the weight is 2gm for 60m long thread.

Double plied means two number of single yarn twisted together ply yarn. in the same way,
metric ticket number (Nm) 90/3 means 3 single yarns are twisted together to form a thread,
where each 90m length of single thread is 1gram and the weight of 90m length of 3 plied
threads is 3 gram.
Metric ticket numbering has done by using the below formula:

Metric ticket number= Resultant count × 3

For easy understanding, the following table shows some example of metric ticket number.

Metric number of Metric ticket

thread (Nm) number of thread (Tkt. No.)
80/2 120
80/4 60
60/1 180
60/2 90

Cotton ticket number:

Cotton ticket number is used for cotton sewing thread. It is denoted by Ne.
For example, Ne 60/3 means sewing thread is 3 plied and the weight of each ply of 60 hank in 840yds is 1
Cotton ticket numbering has don by using the following equation:

Cotton ticket number= Resultant count × 3

To understand easily, the following table shows the example of cotton ticket number.

Count of cotton thread (Ne) Cotton ticket number of thread (Tkt. No.)
40/2 60
40/3 40
40/4 30
60/2 90