ADVANCED SPINNING

The newer spinning systems

• Rotor Spinning,
• Air-jet Spinning,
• Friction Spinning,
• Vortex Spinning,
• Electrostatic Spinning,
• Core Spinning,
• Wrap Spinning,
• Twistless Spinning And Others.
• The structures of yarn obtained from these
systems are also different and vary in many
aspects.
• The ring yarns have helical structure and even
twist distribution, but sometimes there can be
problem in ring spun yarn related to twist
liveliness and migration of fibres inside yarn.
• For improving these aspect new structures came
into picture, which are different from ring spun
yarn structure and these structures will also
behave differently in fabric stages.
Advantages of new spinning systems :
• Lower power consumption per unit quantity of yarn
produced
• Higher speed of twist insertion resulting in very high
yarn delivery speed
• A significant resulting increase in productivity
• Larger delivered package size
• Elimination of some processes such as roving and
winding
• More uniform yarns
Open-End Spinning
• Open end spinning or open-end spinning is a
technology for creating yarn without using a spindle.

• It is also known as break spinning or rotor spinning.

• In this process the fiber sliver is separated into single

fibers and in which the separated fiber material is
brought by an air stream to a collecting surface from
which it is drawn off while being twisted.
• This is normally used in cotton carded spinning.
• The frame is fed with slivers from the draw frames
which transform the yarn directly into packages,
eliminating the passage on the roving frame and, in
many cases, further packaging operations.
The main function of the spinning unit is as follows:
• The sliver from the draw frame is introduced by a feeder
cylinder and is subject to the action of an opener with
saw-toothed wiring which rotates at a speed of between
6000 and 9000 rpm, separating the sliver into single
fibres, then the fibres are sent to the rotor through a
vacuum channel.
• The rotor, whose diameter is between 32.5 and 54 mm,
rotates at a very high speed over 100,000 rpm, and
compacts the fibres partly thanks to its special shape,
twisting the fibres at the same time.
Principle of Open-End Spinning :
• In open-end spinning, this flow of fibers is interrupted,
the fiber strand being opened into individual fibers at a
predetermined position, usually by means of an
opening roller, followed by airborne fiber transport.
• This interruption or break in the fiber flow is
physically achieved by increasing fiber speed locally
to very high levels (up to 100 m/s), so that – according
to the equation of continuity – the number of fibers in
the cross-section drops to such low values that the
fibers lose contact with each other.
• This enables twist to be imparted merely by rotation of
the yarn end, which in turn leads to a significantly
higher potential rotation speed.
However, the break in fiber flow also leads directly to one
of the most important and difficult tasks in open-end
spinning, namely to control the configuration of the
individual fibers, airborne at high speed, and the need to
re-collect these fibers without losing their elongated
configuration, which is essential to the formation of a new
fiber strand.
This very tricky problem of open-end spinning can be
dealt with schematically as shown in Figure 1.
The spinning starts with the carded slivers, which are fed
directly into the spinning operation. The roving and the
twisting by ring are eliminated in this process.
The steps in open-end spinning are as follows:
• The card slivers from the carding stage are fed
through rollers over a opening roller.
• The opening roller breaks up the sliver.
• The opened slivers are taken by an air stream and
deposited on the inner surface of the rotor running at a
high speed.
• The fibres are drawn out from the rotor and as the
fibres are drawn off, twist is inserted by the rotation of
the rotor thus producing the yarn.
Elements of open end spinning system :
• a device for drafting the fibrous mass into
individual fibres,
• a means of transporting the fibres to the yarn
end,
• a device for collecting the separated fibres onto
the yarn end in a manner that enables the
correct yarn count to be obtained,
• a device for rotating the yarn end to insert twist
into the collected fibres, and
• a means of winding the yarn on to the package.
Objectives of Rotor Spinning :
Rotor spinning was initially developed with two
main objectives:
• To provide a more economical spinning system
than conventional ring spinning through higher
productivity, and
• To produce yarn of a quality that matches or
surpasses that of the conventional ring spinning.
First objective has been accomplished. Today, rotor spinning
has a production rate exceeding 200 m/min, as compared to a
maximum of about 40 m/min in ring spinning.
Rotor spinning eliminates the need for roving, since rotor
yarns can be spun directly from drawn sliver. Unlike a ring
frame, the winding and twisting functions are separate and this
permits the building of large yarn packages.
Both these characteristics allow much higher levels of
productivity than ring spinning.
The second objective has not yet been achieved because of the
structure of rotor yarns, which also limits the fineness of count
that can be spun. Perhaps the biggest current obstacle facing
rotor spinning is the fact that it is limited to coarse and
medium yarn counts (16 tex to 120 tex) while ring spinning
excels in the medium to fine counts (finer than > 16 tex).
Operating principles of rotor spinning systems :
• The main features of a rotor spinning machine are
illustrated in Figure. They are:
 A feed roller and feed plate
 A saw tooth or pin covered roller called an opening
roller
 A tapered tube known as a fibre transport channel
 A shallow cup called as rotor (which includes a
groove cut into the circumference at the maximum
internal radius of the rotor referred to as the rotor
groove)
 A flange tube facing the rotor base and co-axial to the
rotor, termed the doffing tube
 A pair of delivery rollers that feed the spun yarn to the
package build device
• Fibres are presented to the rotor system in the form of sliver.
• The feed roller in combination with the feed plate pushes the
sliver against the opening roller.
• The opening roller rotates much faster than the feed roller.
• This means the fibres in the sliver are hooked by the saw tooth
or pins and separated under a high draft ratio into individual
fibres by the opening roller.
• The separated fibres are removed from the opening roller
clothing by air suction flowing down the transport channel and
into the rotor.
• Since the suction is generated externally to the rotor, the rotor is
under a partial vacuum.
• The separated fibres are further drafted during their
transportation by the air flow to the rotor.
• The fibres are individually deposited onto the internal wall of
the rotating rotor and slide down the wall and into the rotor
groove, where they accumulate to form a ribbon of fibres.
To initiate spinning, the tail end of the yarn (seed length) already
wound on to the package (by the package build device) is threaded
through the nip of the delivery rollers and into the doffing tube.
The partial vacuum in the rotor sucks the tail end of the yarn into the
rotor.
The rotation of the rotor develops air drag and centrifugal forces on
the yarn, pulling the yarn end in contact with the collected fibre
ribbon.
Simultaneously the tail end is twisted with each revolution of the
rotor.
This twist propagates towards the tail end of the yarn and binds the
ribbon into the yarn end.
Once the yarn tail enters the rotor, the delivery rollers are set in
motion to pull the tail out of the rotor.
The pulling action of the tail results in the peeling of the fibre ribbon
from the rotor groove. The degree of twist inserted in the tail will
propagate into each length of ribbon peeled from the groove, thus
forming the next length of yarn.
The process is continuous because of the conservation of mass flow.
The important rotor parameters which have
significant effects on the spinning process and yarn
quality are:
• Fiber feed-in conditions (feed-in height relative to
the rotor groove, feed-in direction, fiber feed-in
speed relative to peripheral rotor speed).
• Rotor groove diameter
• Rotor groove shape (aperture angle, groove radius
and depth)
• Rotor wall and rotor groove roughness
• Rotor wall inclination and surface quality
• Rotor speed
Speed Interrelationship:
• Normal & maximum revolutions & speeds are
• Rpm of opening roller :5000 -10000 rpm
Technical Data of Rotor Spinning Machine:
• Number of spinning positions per m/c up to 220
• Count range 12- 125 Tex (5 – 50 Ne)
• Draft 25- 400
• Speed of rotation of opening roller 6000- 11000 rpm
• Rotation speed of rotor up tp 120000 rpm
• Rotor diameter 32 -65 mm
• Delivery speed ( m/ min) up to 200
• Package mass up to 5 kg
• Angle of taper 2° - 4° 20’
• Winding angle 29° – 45°
Structure and properties of rotor-spun yarns
• Rotor spun yarns are well known for their unique
three-part structure:
• Wrapper or belt fibres
• Sheath fibres
• Core fibers
• The core contains densely-packed fibers similar to ring-spun
yarns.
• Sheath fibres are loosely packed round the yarn core at a low
angle to the yarn axis.
• The wrapper or belt fibres are wrapped around the outside of
the yarn at a very large inclination to the yarn axis.
• It has been reported that fibre migration in rotor yarn is
relatively local:
• fibers in each layer are only tied to the fibers of adjacent layers.
• Rotor spinning generates lots of hooks and looped fibers even if
a well parallelized sliver or roving is fed into the rotor.
• The typical distribution of fibers shapes in rotor-spun yarn the
yarn is:
39% folded or buckled fibres in the core,
31% straight fibres in the core,
15% leading hooks and
15% trailing hooks in the outer layers.
Given its structure, fibers in rotor yarn are less packed
than ring yarn.
Rotor yarns are known to be 5-10% bulkier than ring
yarn.
Across the cross-section, the packing is not uniform.
The packing is maximum at a point approximately one
third to one quarter of yarn radius from the central axis.
This has been attributed to greater buckling if fibres in
the core.
As a result, packing of rotor yarn is concentrated nearer
the yarn axis and less towards the outer surface of the
yarn in comparison to ring yarn.
Rotor spun yarn is less strong than comparable
ring spun yarn.
This is because of the straight, parallel
arrangements of fibers and denser packing of
fibers in ring spun yarn which contrast with the
higher numbers of disoriented folded fibers in
rotor spun yarn, lower levels of fibre migration,
less packing and the presence of non-load bearing
wrappers and belt fibres.
• Rotor spun yarns are generally more extensible than ring spun
yarns.
• The higher breaking extension of rotor yarn is due to presence
of a lot of hooked, looped and disoriented fibers in the structure.
• However, the dense, more tangled structure of fibres in the core
offers very little freedom of movement of fibres in rotor yarns.
• Rotor yarns are therefore less flexible than ring yarns which have
a more uniform helical arrangement of fibres.
• Due to its unique structure, rotor yarn shows higher abrasion
resistance than ring spun yarn.
• The loosely-wrapped sheath fibers can easily yield to an abrasive
surface, and, given its greater bulk, the yarn can flatten, giving
further abrasion resistance.
• Rotor yarns also have fewer irregularities and imperfections
compared to carded ring-spun yarns.
• This has been attributed to the mechanism of yarn formation, i.e.
back doubling in the rotor groove before twist insertion which
irons out irregularities.
End Uses for Open End Spun Yarns :
• Open end yarns produce different characteristics in
the end product.
• These yarns may be used to advantage in fabrics
where uniformity and a smoother surface are of
prime importance.
• Open end yarns are used in pile fabrics, apparel,
household, industrial and technical applications.
Uses include heavy weight satin and poplins,
corduroy, velveteen, rain wear, denims, drills,
sheets, pillow cases, bed spreads, printed fabrics,
curtains, window blinds, upholstery, cleaning
cloths, dress goods, underwear, rugs, carpet,
blankets, terry towel and diapers.
Air jet
Yarn properties:
Tensile properties
1. Air jet spun yarn is weaker than ring spun yarn
2. Elongation at break is slightly lower (5-15%)
3. Yarn fineness also reduces
4. After doubling, tenacity is increase.
Evenness and imperfection
• More even and fewer imperfection
• More or less similar to rotor spun yarn
Hairness and bulk
• Less hairy and less compressible
Abrasion resistance
• Higher than ring spun yarn and lower than
rotor spun
Stiffness
• Higher stiffness
Process parameter
1. Air pressure
2. Yarn delivery rate
3. Condenser width
4. Draft
5. Feed ratio
Fibre characteristics
• Fineness,
• Length,
• Strength and
• Friction
FRICTION SPINNING
• Friction Spinning or DREF Spinning is a textile
technology that suitable for spinning coarse
counts of yarns and technical core-wrapped
yarns.
• DREF yarns are bulky, with low tensile strength
making them suitable for blankets and mop yarns,
they can be spun from asbestos, carbon fibres and
make filters was water systems.
• Yarns such as Rayon and Kevlar can be spun
using this method.
• The technology was developed around 1975 by
Dr. Ernst Fehrer.
 With the advent of modern spinning systems, frictional
properties of fiber assemblies have gained technical
importance because of the role played by interfiber
friction.
 Amongst the spinning systems, DREF provides a good
platform for production of core spun yarns due its
spinning principle.
 It offers less spinning tension to the core and core will
be positioned exactly at the center of the yarn.
 Friction (DREF) spinning system is also known as an
Open-end or Core sheath type of spinning system.
The friction spinning system
• Opening & individualization of fibres from
slivers
• Reassembling of individualized fibres (
collecting)
• Twisting (imparting the strength by twisting)
• Withdrawing newly yarn formation
• Winding of yarn. ( A cross-wound package)
ADVANTAGES
• High delivery speeds;
• Low yarn production costs (lower than those of ring
spinning);
• Elimination of rewinding;
• Low end breakage rates;
• Yarn character similar to that of ring-spun yarn;
• No wrapping fibers;
• Optically good mass evenness (well suited to knitted
goods);
• Better and softer handle than that of rotor-spun yarn;
• Smooth yarn appearance.
DISADVANTAGES
• Low yarn strength;
• High tendency to snarl;
• Higher number of fibers needed in yarn cross-
section;
• Difficulty of keeping spinning conditions
constant;
• High air consumption;
• Increasing unevenness and imperfections with
increasing spinning speed, and further reduction
in yarn strength.
DREF-II friction spinning
• The DREF-II friction spinning machine was developed to
overcome this problem.
• This machine incorporates a specially designed inlet system which
provides the required draft.
• These drafted slivers are opened into individual fibres by a rotating
carding drum (opening roller) covered with saw-tooth wires.
• The individual fibres are stripped from the carding drum by
centrifugal force supported by an air stream from a blower.
• The fibres are then transported by additional rollers to two
perforated friction drums.
• The mechanical friction on the surface of the drums twists the
fibres.
• Suction through the perforation of the drum assists the twisting
process and helps in the removal of dust and dirt.
Friction spinning technology works on the principle of
friction twisting.
Figure shows the working principle of friction
spinning.
In this system, the pre-opened fibres are fed onto a
moving, perforated collecting drum underneath which
there is suction device.
The fibres are fed between this and a second rotating
drum. Twisting occurs due to the frictional forces
between the drums and the fibre assembly.
The process is also known as mechanical-
aerodynamic spinning due to the fact that the
spinning effect is produced by the movement of
two spinning bodies (friction drums) assisted by
air suction.
Due to its versatility and high output speed of up
to 300 m/min, the friction spinning system is
considered suitable for producing yarns in the
coarse count range, i.e. greater than 20sNe.
The main operations in friction spinning are:

• Sliver feed
• Fibre opening
• Fibre transportation
• Fibre accumulation
• Twisting and winding
DREF-III friction spinning
• The DREF-III friction spinning machine was
introduced into the market in 1981.
• This machine was developed to improve yarn quality,
extend the yarn count up to 18s Ne and produce multi-
component yarns.
• The DREF-III uses a core-sheath type friction
arrangement as shown in Figure.
• In this machine an attempt is made to improve the
quality of yarn by aligning the majority of fibres in the
direction of yarn axis.
• The remaining fibres are wrapped round the core fibres
to form a sheath.
• The sheath fibres are wrapped round the core fibres by
the false twist generated by the rotating action of drums.
• Two drafting units are used in this system, one for the
core fibres and other for the sheath fibres.
• This system produces a variety of core-sheath type
structures and multi-component yarns using different
core and sheath fibres in the count range of 1-18sNe
with delivery speeds as high as 300 m/min.
Features of Friction Spinning
The main advantage of the friction spinning system lies in
its ability to generate a number of turns per unit length of
yarn with one revolution of the twisting element.
It is possible to spin yarn at very high production rate up
to 300 m/min due to the low spinning tension required.
This system can process a wide range of fibres. It is
possible to produce large package, therefore no rewinding
is required.
It is also possible to spin core-spun yarns and multi-
component yarns on DREF-III machine.
• Friction spinning systems have number of limitations which
restrict its acceptance as a viable system for producing general-
purpose yarns.
• The main drawback is lower yarn strength. Poor fibre orientation
renders the friction spun yarns relatively weak.
• The extent of disorientation and buckling is greater with longer
and finer fibres.
• The twist variation from surface to core is quite high. This is
another reason for the low strength of friction-spun yarns.
• The count range is limited and it is not possible to produce fine
yarn.
• Friction spun yarns have a higher tendency to snarl.
• Yarns unevenness and imperfections also increase as production
speed increases.
Dref -2 End-Uses Areas
• Blankets for the homes, hotels, hospitals, camping, military uses,
plaids etc.
• Cleaning rags and mops from cotton waster and various waste-
blends
• Deco- and upholstery fabrics.
• Outerwear and leisure-wear.
• Filter cartridges for liquid filtration.
• Secondary carpet backing for tufting carpets.
• Canvas and tarpaulins for the military and civil sectors.
• High-tenacity core yarn for ropes, transport and conveyor belts
• Asbestos substitutes for heavy protective clothing (protective
gloves, aprons etc) packing, gaskets, clutch and brake-linings,
flame retardant fabrics etc.
• Filter yarns for the cable, shoe and carpet industries
• Carpet Yarns (Berber carpets, hand-woven and hand-knotted
carpets) and filler weft yarns for carpets.
DREF-2000
• one or more carded slivers are
passed to the main opening roller
(2) (i.e., a drum clothed with
sawteeth) after leaving a drafting
arrangement (1).
• While the drafting arrangement
has only a slight drafting effect,
the saw tooth roller opens the
strand into individual fibers.
• The fibers separated in this way
are lifted off the roller by a
blower (3) and form a cloud (7),
descending toward two
perforated drums (4).
• One suction stream (5) per drum draws the fibers into
the convergent region between the drums.
• The open end of the yarn (6) projects into this zone and
is also sucked toward the perforated drums.
• Since these rotate, the yarn also rotates in the convergent
region.
• The newly arriving fibers contact the rotating yarn and
are thereby caught and twisted in.
• It is only necessary to withdraw the yarn continuously to
twist fibers newly arriving in the convergent region into
a yarn.
• Dref-2000 is suited for production of coarse yarns
PROPERTIES OF FRICTION SPUN YARNS
• Friction spun yarns (DREF) yarns have bulky appearance (100-
140% bulkier than the ring spun yarns).
• The twist is not uniform and found with loopy yarn surface.
• Usually weak as compared to other yarns.
• The yarns possess only 60% of the tenacity of ring-spun yarns and
about 90% of rotor spun-yarns.
• The breaking elongation of ring, rotor and friction spun yarns is
equal.
• Depending on the type of fiber, the differences in strength of these
yarns differ in magnitude.
– 100% polyester yarns-strength deficiency is 32%
– 100% viscose yarns-it ranges from 0-25%
• In polyester-cotton blend, DREF yarns perform better than their
ring-spun counterparts.
– 70/30% blend yarn-superior in strength by 25%
• In polyester-cotton blend, DREF yarns perform better than their
ring-spun counterparts.
– 70/30% blend yarn-superior in strength by 25%
• DREF yarns are inferior in terms of unevenness, imperfections,
strength variability and hairiness.
• The friction spun yarns are more hairy than the ring spun yarns
• DREF yarns are most irregular in terms of twist and linear density
while ring spun yarns are most even.
WRAP SPINNING
A roving or sliver feedstock (1) is drafted in a three-, four-
or five-roller drafting arrangement.
The fiber strand delivered runs through a hollow spindle (3)
without receiving true twist.
In order to impart strength to the strand before it falls apart,
a continuous-filament thread (4) is wound around the
strand as it emerges from the drafting arrangement.
The continuous-filament thread comes from a small,
rapidly rotating bobbin (5) mounted on the hollow spindle.
Take-off rollers lead the resulting wrap yarn to a winding
device.
The wrap yarn thus always consists of two
components, one twist-free staple-fiber component
in the yarn core (a), and a filament (b) wound
around the core.
This process has been offered by several
manufacturers, e.g., Leesona, Mackie, etc.
The most common wrap spinning system is
ParafiL by the Suessen company, and this process
will be briefly described.
PARAFIL System
• Three-, four-, or five-roller drafting arrangements are used, depending upon
the raw material to be processed.
• The hollow spindle permits rotation speeds of up to 35 000 rpm and is
designed as a false-twist assembly.
• The fiber strand (Fa) does not pass directly through the spindle vertically;
instead, shortly after entering the spindle, the strand is led out again (1) and
back around the spindle, with a wrap of about one-quarter of the spindle
periphery.
• In this way, as the spindle rotates, the strand is provided with twist between
the drafting arrangement and the head of the hollow spindle.
• These turns of twist are canceled out again in the spindle head in accordance
with the false-twist principle.
• This false twist prevents the strand from falling apart in the length prior to
wrapping with filament (Fi).
• Slivers are used as feedstock; the roving frame is
eliminated.
• ParafiL yarn (called Parallel yarn by Suessen) is
usually more even than ring-spun yarn.
• Its strength is also better because of the filament and
because of the high degree of parallel orientation of the
fibers.
• Covering power is high and hairiness low.
• Another name for this yarn is cover spun yarn or PL
yarn
• Hollow spindle spinning
Two types
i. Parafil 1000 – medium package
ii. Parafil 2000 – large package
The yarns are used primarily for:
• Machine-knitting yarn;
• Velours (home and automobile upholstery materials);
• Woven goods (men‘s and ladies‘ wear);
• Carpet yarns (mainly for tufted carpets).
At present, the process is more suited to the long-staple than the
short-staple field, i.e. for fiber lengths above 60 mm.
In ParafiL yarns, the filament makes up 2 - 5% of the yarn.
Properties
• Tensile strength – Equal to ring
• Elongation – Low
• Evenness – more even than ring
• Hairiness – Less hairy
Core spun yarn
Definition:
Core-spinning is a process by which fibres are twisted
around an existing yarn, either filament or staple spun
yarn, to produce a sheath– core structure in which the
already formed yarn is the core.
Core-spun yarns are two-component structure with
Core and sheath.
Generally continuous filament yarn is used as core and
the staple fibres used as sheath covering.
The core-spun yarn used to enhance functional
properties of the fabrics such as strength, durability
and stretch comfort.
Methods for production of Core spun yarns
The production of Core-spun yarns done successfully by
many spinning systems.
1. Conventional core spinning attachment with ring spinning
systems
2. S.R.R.C Core wrap spinning method
3. A.R.S. Patterned Spinning system
4. Core-twin spinning system
5. Composite electrostatic spinning system
6. Rotor spinning system
7. Friction spinning system and
8. Air jet spinning system
Existing ring spinning technique can be used to
manufacture core spun yarns with modifications at the
process level.
In its conventional form, this technique comprises of
pair of rollers for drafting, twisting and winding
mechanism, being able to handle only one type of fiber
that too in the staple form to manufacture spun yarns.
With slight modifications and little investment, this
technique can be suitably used to produce core yarns.
Raw materials
core
1. High tenacity polyester(mono or multi )
2. Elastomeric filaments
3. High and medium tenacity polyester fibre
4. Glass, carbon and metallic filaments
Sheath or covering
• Cotton and blends
• MMF
Application
1. Sewing threads – high tensile strength,
performance
2. Stretch yarn – hosiery, inner garments, sports
wear
3. Core spun composite yarn – technical textiles
like fire barriers, industrial hoses, belts, flame
retardant, tents, tarpaulins.
SELF TWIST SPINNING
This machine produces a two ply yarn without
employing spindles, rings or travellers;
Thus eliminating completely the limiting factors to
productivity of conventional ring spinning.
Spinning tension - often very high on ring frames - is
replaced by a much lower, controlled winding tension;
Reducing spinning end breaks and virtually eliminating
the emission of fly and dust at the spinning operation.
• On the Self Twist Spinner, yarn is formed by inserting
alternating 'S' and 'Z' twist in the fibre strands
emerging from the drafting system by passing them
between rollers which reciprocate along their axes as
they rotate to deliver the threads.
• A complete cycle of 'S' and 'Z' twists occurs every 22
centimeters.
• Adjacent threads are then brought together and
allowed to self twist around each other to form a two
ply yarn construction.
Principles :
• If the strand is passed forward (by the delivery
movement) between rubbing rollers (N), which are
also moving to and fro, then it will be continuously
twisted with alternating Z- and S- twist over
successive short portions.
• The counter-torque created in the yarn will, however,
eliminate this twist immediately after the yarn leaves
the roller nipping line.
• If – instead of one strand – two fiber strands are
passed through while arranged parallel and very close
to each other, then the counter-torque can no longer
operate solely on one yarn.
• It must operate on both, and causes twisting of the two
threads around each other. A plied thread is created
with continually varying twist direction – Z-twist
where S-twist is present in both yarns and S-twist
where the yarns had originally Z-twist.
• In most cases, the strength of the self-twist thread
made in this way is not quite sufficient because of the
untwisted pieces between the twisted portions – it must
be additionally twisted subsequently.
• In worsted spinning, its sole field of application, self-
twist spinning (also known as Repco spinning) has
been in use for several years, although not on a very
large scale.
However, since the stroke of the rubbing rollers
has reversal points, there is always a small
length of strand left without twist between each
section of Z twist and the adjoining section of S
twist.
The plied thread will also have no twist in this
zone .Such a thread has no strength.
It cannot be wound up or subjected to further
processing.
In order to obtain adequate strength despite these twist free zones,
the two yarns cannot be allowed to run in parallel, but instead they
must be passed through with a relative phase shift.
Then S twist will be generated in the plied yarn wherever one yarn
has Z twist (with zero twist in the second yarn) or where both
yarns have Z twist.
Similarly, the plied yarn will have Z twist wherever at least one
yarn has S twist (with zero twist in the other yarn) or where both
have S twist.
If a yarn section with S twist is combined with a section with Z
twist, which cannot be avoided, the torsion forces stabilize each
other so that no plying twist results.
The two-fold yarn obtained with this process therefore always
consists of three successively arranged zones
• Folded yarn with S twist arising from two yarns
with Z twist, with one of the yarns exhibiting a
short twist-free length;
• Two yarn sections lying parallel to each other
without plying, one yarn having S and the other
Z twist;
• Folded yarn with Z twist, where the yarns have S
twist, with one of the yarns again exhibiting a
short twist-free length.
• The two-fold yarn has
adequate strength to permit
winding up but not for further
processing.
• For that purpose, it must be
twisted again.
• However, since the two-fold
yarn has alternating turns of
twist, a folded yarn with
continuously varying sections
of different twist is obtained
upon further plying (two-for-
one twisting process)
Repco spinning (self-twist spinning by Platt Saco Lowell)
Platt Saco Lowell has obtained a license from CSIRO for the self-twist
spinning process. The corresponding machine has been called the Repco
Spinner.
Eight roving strands (2) run from a creel (1) into a double apron drafting
arrangement (3), where they are drafted in a normal drafting range.
A friction assembly (4) adjoins the drafting arrangement and consists of two
reciprocating friction rollers.
In passing through this device, the fiber strands leaving the drafting
arrangement are subjected to alternating twist.
Before the turns of twist can cancel each other out, the strands are brought
together in pairs with a phase shift between the components of the two
strands.
This produces the previously described self-twist (ST) twofold yarn.
The four yarns proceed to a winding device (5), where they are wound onto
cross-wound packages.
This process is suited only to the spinning of long staple fibers and is
therefore used solely in worsted spinning mills.
Specification of the Repco spinner
• Spinning positions per machine - 4 (5)
• Delivery speed - up to 300 m/min
• Raw material - wool and synthetic fibers
• Count range - Ne 9/2-45/2; 13-65 tex x 2
• Feedstock - roving
• Type of yarn - two-fold yarn
• Yarn characteristics - full, round, twist variations
• Fields of use - outerwear, pullovers
• Advantages - low energy consumption,
low space requirement
low personnel demand,
low-noise process
ST yarn
• ST is the abbreviation used for in phase yarn or
low phase angle yarn from basic self twist
machine.
• It is a two or more strand structure wherein
each strand has same count.
STm
• STm refers to the situation where heavier
strand is staple and other is a monofilament.
2ST yarn
• Two ST yarns are assembly wound on the one
package at the self twist spinner .
• The final 2ST yarn is a 4 ply structure.
• Certain superior properties.
• Count range is restricted.
• Production is impaired.
2STm yarn
• Two ST yarns are assembly wound on the one
package at the self twist spinner .
• The final 2STm yarn is a 4 ply structure.
• Certain superior properties.
• Count range is restricted.
• Production is impaired.
ST2 Yarn
• Involves self twisting together of self twisting
structures.
-Weaves exceptionally well.
-Patterning still prevail.
-Count range is limited.
-Output is limited compared to ST yarn.
(STm)2 yarn
• Two STm yarns are self twisted together to give
(STm)2 yarn.
• The substitution of fine monofilaments for two
of the strands extend the available count ranges.
• Weave Exceptionally well and less patterning.
(ST)m yarn
• Add a monofilament to STyarn in its second
twisting stage.
• The resultant yarn is stable enough to withstand
weaving.
Twist-less spinning
Twistless methods :
• Improving the fiber cohesion by another means
than twisting.
– Adhesive bonding
– Continuous felting
• Adhesive Bonding : Strand is held together by
an adhesive instead of the twist.
• Continuous felting : Fibers are bond together
by using the felting effect of fibers.
Adhesive bonding process
• Adhesive bonding process can be classified in to
two main areas.
• They are namely as staple adhesive bonding
method and filament bonding process.
• The staple bonding process is again divided in to
two levels based on the drying system.
• These two methods can be identified as methods
where the combined dryer with the spinning
system and separated dryer and spinning
system.
Tek-Ja process
• Drawing unit
• Press roll
• Carrier roller
• Rub cylinder
• Presser cylinders
• dryer
• Pump
Control factors in adhesive spinning
• Fiber control in roller drafting
• Adhesive percentage
• Condensation
• Fiber support in the material path
• Drying
Adhesive percentage
• Strength of the yarn according to the
requirement.
• Determines the stiffness of the yarn
• Depend on the count
• 4-8 per cent ; produces yarn which is not too
stiff, and has sufficient strength for normal
counts
Condensation
• Improve the packing of the fibers after
introduction of adhesive solvent.
• Yarn is subjected to a mechanical forces to
achieve near circular cross section.
• Rubbing rollers and air jet twisting devices.
Bobtex process
• A core of mono- or multi-filaments making up
10-60% and forming the yam carrier (a);
• A polymer intermediate layer (20-50%) (b);
and
• Staple fibres embedded in the intermediate
layer to provide a covering layer and making
up 30--60% (c).
Properties & End-uses
• Flat and ribbon like flexible yarn
• Depends on the fibre type and the adhesive type
Strength
– When twist-less yarn is washed to remove adhesive, virtually
there is no strength.
– Depends upon the friction at fibre crossing points
– So the structure of the fabric becomes important
– Strength of twist-less yarn fabrics is higher than normal fabrics
Cover factor
• Twist-less yarns increase the cover factor of
fabric
• Because the twist-less yarn (flat & ribbon like)
is not thin as normal twisted yarns and the yarns
flatten within the fabric structure
• Can match a normal fabric with much lighter
fabric made with twist-less yarns by decreasing
the number of yarns per centimeter
Luster
• Fabrics made from twistless yarns have an attractive and
characteristic luster.
Bulkiness
– Twist-less yarn is very bulky
– Fibres are loosely arranged in the twist-less yarn fabrics
– Changed disposition of the fibers tends to give a softer hand in
twist-less yarn fabrics
Water & air permeability
– Open structure of twist-less yarn fabrics allows more water &
air transmission
Wet ability
• – Wet ability is high in twist-less yarn fabrics
• – Yarns are not twiste
Wicking property
– Wicking property is high than normal twisted yarn fabrics
– Twist-less yarns has more open structure allowing easy capillary
action
Shrinkage
– Both knitted and woven fabrics of twist-less yarns suffer much
less shrinkage in the fabric forming process
• Crease resistance
– Crease resistance property of the twist less yarn fabric is same as
the normal fabric
End-uses
• Towels
• – Bath towels, hand towels and baby blankets
• – Twist-less towels are more bulky and softer
• – Good absorbency properties
Twist-less pyjamas and cotton bath wear
• – Light weight, comfortable permeability
• Properties and luxury look due to better luster
Twist-less shirts
• – Light weight, comfortable to wear
Tent fabrics
– Light twist-less yarn fabric is almost equal to
normal heavy tent cloth in respect of air &
water permeability
• – Tearing strength of twist-less yarn fabrics are
higher than normal fabrics
Composites
• – Twist-less yarns with long, aligned fibers are using
for;
• load-bearing applications (an added advantage of
having a lower weight than conventional
• reinforcements)
• To reinforce naturally derived plastics
• Interior parts for the automotive industry