Textile Production

Textile manufacturingisamajorindustry.Itisbasedontheconversionoffiberintoyarn,yarnintofabric.Thesearethendyedorprinted,fabricatedintoclothes.Differenttypesoffiberareusedtoproduce
yarn.Cottonremainsthemostimportantnaturalfiber,soistreatedindepth.Therearemanyvariableprocessesavailableatthe spinningandfabric-formingstagescoupledwiththecomplexitiesof
thefinishingandcolorationprocessestotheproductionofawiderangesofproducts.Thereisstillalargeindustrythatuses handtechniquestoachievethesameresults.
Textile fiber and types:
Textilefiberhassome
characteristicswhichdiffer
betweenfibertoTextile
fiber.Textilefibercanbe
spunintoayarnormadeinto
afabricbyvariousmethods
includingweaving,knitting,
braiding,felting,andtwisting.
Theessentialrequirements
forfiberstobespunintoyarn
includealengthofatleast5
millimeters,flexibility,
cohesiveness,andsufficient
strength.Otherimportant
propertiesincludeelasticity,
fineness,uniformity,
durability,andluster.
Natural fiber and textile production:

Natural fibers include those produced by plants,

animals, and geological processes. They are
biodegradable over time. They can be classified
according
Plant fibers to theirAnimal
origin.
fibers
Plant fibers include seed Animal fibers include
hairs, such as cotton; stem wool, hair and
(or bast) fibers, such as flax
secretions, such as silk.
and hemp; leaf fibers, such
as sisal; and husk fibers,
such as coconut.
 Production process:

Step 1: Cultivating
Thefirststepistocultivateandharvesttherawmaterialneededfortheproductionofitsrespectivenaturalfiber.
Thisvarieswithseason.Forexample,cottonthemostcultivatednaturalfiberisharvestedfromSeptembertomidNovember.
Afterbeingharvestedcottongoesthroughaprocesscalledginningtoseparatetheseedandotherimpuritiesfromthefiber
producingrawmaterial.

Step 2: Preparatory processes: preparation of yarn and spinning

Thisprocessisdoneforthepreparationofyarnorfilaments.Thestepsinvolvingringspinningyarnare:
Plucking:Removalofunwantednonlintortrashfromthefibermixture
Carding:Straightens,parallelsandcleansthefiber.
Drawing:Silverareblended,paralleloffiber,reducethicknessofsilverbydrafting.
Comber:Removesshortlengthfiber.
Simplex:Reducethethicknessofsilver.Preprocesstheringspinningprocess.
Ring:Truetwistisinsertedintoparallelfibersbymeansofarotatingspindle
Cones:Transferyarnfrommultiringbobbintooneconeofstandardizedweight.

Step 3: Weaving
Thisistheprocessofinterlacingatleasttwoyarnsatrightanglesto
createfabric.
Warping:transferyarn(cones)intoWarper'sBeam.Sectional
WarpingisusedforYarnDyedFabrication.
Sizing:Beforeweavingtoprotecttheyarnsformabrasioninthe
healdsandreedagainsteachother,applystarchmainly,a
chemicaltreatmenttomultiple(calculated)warper'sbeams.
Drawingin:intheprocessofdrawingthewarpsthreadpasses
throughtheeyeofhealdwireanddentofreedaccordingweave
type/pattern.IncaseofrunningpatternKnottingprocessisused
fromSizer'sbeamstoLoom.
Weaving:IntersectionofWarpandWeftyarninloomforthe
formationoffabric.
Inspectingandmending:Inspectionfabric,mendingifrequired.
Alsoassigngradingtofabric.
Step 4: Processing and finishing
TheYarnFabricorGarmenttreatedcombination
processofChemicaland/orMechanicalprocess
whichchange
physicalorchemicalstateofTextiles(Yarn,Fabric,
Garment).Thesub-processesare
1. Pretreatment: preparationprocessesoftextiles
Singeing:amechanicalprocesstoremoveof
protrudingfibersbydirectflameorbyinfrared
radiationorbyburringagainsthotplate.
De-sizing:removalofsize(starch)fromthefabric
(usuallyinwarp)duringsizingprocessinweaving
Scouring:thetreatmentoftextilematerialsof
aqueousorothersolutioninordertoremovethe
naturalfats,waxes,proteinsandotherconstituents,
aswellasdirt,oilandotherimpurities(by
saponification).
Bleaching:aprocessforimprovingthewhitenessif
textilematerialwithorwithouttheremovalofnatural
coloringmattersand/orextraneoussubstances.
Mercerizing:thetreatmentofcellulosictextileinyarn
orfabricformwithaconcentratedsolutionofcaustic
alkaliwherebythefiberareswollen,thestrength
anddyeaffinityofthematerialareincreased.
2. Dyeing: Theapplicationandfixingofadyeandsubstratenormallyevendistributionthroughoutthesubstrate
3. Printing:theproductionofdesignormotifonasubstratebyapplicationofatreatmentofcolorantorother
reagentusuallyinapasteorinkinapredeterminedpattern.
4. Finishing: aprocessphysical/chemicalappliedtoasubstratetoproduceadesiredeffect
Synthetic fiber and textile production:
Syntheticfibersorfibersaretheresultofextensiveresearchbyscientiststoimproveonnaturally
occurringanimalandplantfibers.Ingeneral,syntheticfibersarecreatedbyextrudingfiberforming
materialsthroughspinneretsintoairandwater,formingathread.
Production: Syntheticfibersaretheresultofextensive
developmentbyscientiststoimproveuponthenaturally
occurringanimalandplantfibers.Ingeneral,syntheticfibersare
createdbyforcing,orextruding,fiberformingmaterialsthrough
holes(calledspinnerets)intotheair,thusformingathread.Before
syntheticfibersweredeveloped,cellulosefibersweremadefrom
naturalcellulose,whichcomesfromplants.
Thetechniquesusedtoprocessthesefibersinyarnareessentially
thesameaswithnaturalfibers,modificationshavetobemadeas
thesefibersareofgreatlength,andhavenotexturesuchasthe
scalesincottonandwoolthataidmeshing
Flowchartoftheprocess:
1. Rawmaterials/monomers
2. Polymerization
3. Drawingandstretching
4. Texturing
5. Intermingling
6. Heatsetting
7. Finishingfilaments
Transforming both natural or unnatural fabric to garment:
Step 5: Stitching
attachingthemultiplepanelsoftextilesthroughthread/yarnto
makeawearable(apparels)oruseable(hometextiles)material
Patterndesign:createmarker/DesignofTextilemade-upforcutting
offabric
Layering:layingthefabricinspecificlengthwithmultilayers.
Cutting:cutfabricaccordingtopattern/markersetuponfabric.
Bunding:combinepanelsofeachgarmentinabundle(s)
Printingandembroidery:applydesignonfabricpanelthrough
differentmeanslikeprinting,Embroidery
Stitching:threadingthepanel(bundles)ofeachgarment,home
textiletofinishedproduct
Finishingandpacking:Trimmingofhangingthread,pressing,
inspectionandpacking.
 Effects on the environment:
Thetextilesindustryhasalargepollutionproblemworldwide.Themainissueiswaterpollution.It
isestimatedthat17to20%ofindustrialwaterpollutioncomesfromthetextileindustryitself.This
contaminatedwaterhasbeentestedandresultsshowthat72newtoxicchemicalshavebeen
identified,30ofwhichcannotberemoved,thiswateriscausingmanyenvironmentalproblems.
WorldWidePollution
Textileprocessingcreatesmanyaspectsofwaste,theseincludeliquid,gaseousandsolid
wastes,afewthesemaybehazardous.Thewastegenerateddependssolelyonthetype
oftextilefacility,theprocessesandtechnologiesbeingoperated,andthetypesoffibers
andchemicalsused.

Water Pollution
Waterpollutioniscreatedinmanydifferentprocessesoftextilemaking,theseinclude:
Slashing/sizing,scouring,bleaching,heatsetting,dyeingandprinting.
Mostprocessesperformedinthetextileindustryproduceharmtotheatmosphere.Gas
emissionshavebeenidentifiedasthesecondgreatestpollutionproblemforthetextile
industryafterwaterpollution.Airpollutionisthemostdifficulttypeofpollutiontosample,
test,andcount.

Air Pollution
Textilemillsusuallygeneratenitrogenandsulphuroxidesfromboilers.Othercausesofair
pollutionincluderesinfinishinganddryingoperations,printing,dyeing,fabricpreparation,
andwaste-watertreatmenttoplants.Hydrocarbonsareemittedintotheairthroughdrying
oven,weareawareofthisasalthoughitishard,scientistshaverecordedthisdata.

Solid Waste Pollution

Theresidualwastesgeneratedfromthetextileindustryarenon-hazardous.Theseinclude
scrapsoffabricandyarn,andpackagingwaste.Therearealsowasteswiththestorage
andproductionofyarns.Theamountofsolidwasteproducedcanbereduced,iffactories
allaroundtheworldaremoreefficientwhenitcomestocuttingavarietyofmaterials.
RawMaterials
 ECO friendly textiles:
Globalawarenessoftherealpriceofclothingisgrowingand
thereareincreasingnumbersofcasesofpeople
experiencinghealthproblemssuchasrashes,allergies,
respiratoryandconcentrationproblemsduetochemical
sensitivities.Manyhavefoundorganicclothingtobehelpful
inreducingexposuretothevastamountoftoxicchemicals
weareunknowinglyexposedtoonadailybasis.
Listofeco-friendlyfabrics:
Organiccotton
Hemp
Bamboo
Soya
Conclusion:
Textilescouldbeoneofthemostun-sustainableproductsintheworld.Intheirentirelifecyclefrom
growingtherawmaterialorcreatingitfromoiltomanufacturingandsellingandfinaldisposaltheycan
createaseriousproblem.

Therearebenefitsatdifferentlife-cyclestagesoftheorganicandeco-friendlyfabricstrade,bothfor
consumersandproducershowever,inthelargerscaleofthingsitisimportanttoseethatECO-
FRIENDLYTEXTILESANDCLOTHINGmaytravelhalfwayaroundtheworldtoreachtheethical
customer.AsthedemandofSUCHECOFRIENDLYGarmentsisincreasingthereexistagreatscope
fornewentrepreneurtoenterintothisfield.