Introduction to

spreading and cutting

Presented by:
Aishee Bhowmick
Aditya Raj
 Pre production process
Marker making
Spreading
Cutting
Position marking
Shading
Bundling
Marker making
Marker- It is the length of paper containing a
copy of all pattern pieces to be cut at one
time
Marker making- It is the process of developing
jig-saw diagram which is superimposed on the
top of group of superimposed plies as a guide
for cutting fabric in components of garments
Spreading
Process of super
imposing plies
of material on
the table in the
manner that it
can be cut out.
Lay- It is the
stack of fabric
plies prepared
for cutting
Cutting
Process which actually cuts raw material into
components
There are two major type cutting:
Pattern cutting: It is the process of cutting the
fabric in exact shape of the pattern
Block cutting: It is the cutting process in which
cut component is not exactly the shape of the
pattern. Lay undergoes second cutting process
before assembly
Cutting
Position marking
It is the process of placing guide marks on the
surface of cut components.
Notches
Drill marks
Shading
It is the process of marking cut components
for shade matching and sequence
identification.
Bundling
It is the process of stacking cut components
for further process.
Production pattern and grading
Production pattern: It is the pattern set that
has been corrected and perfected and
contains every pattern piece require to
complete the garment.
Grading : It proportionally increases or
decreases the size of an original pattern.
Manual marker making
Created by arranging the full size pattern
pieces on the marker paper or directly on top
ply of fabric spread.
Traced by tailors chalk or pencil.
Pros and cons of manual
method
Time consuming
Require great deal of space
Subject to error of grain variation
Poor line definition
Omission of pieces
Accuracy depends on skill of individual
Low cost
Computerized marker making
This is the best method of marker making and
widely used.
In this method, every component of patterns
is kept in the memory of the computer and
Grade rule is also mentioned.
Then the computer makes the marker by its
pre-fashioned programming technique.
The information of patterns can be stored by:
Digitizing System
Scanning System
i. Digitizing System:
In this process, patterns are placed in the
digitizing board.
Every portion of the components are send to the
memory of the computer by clicking special mouse
around the pieces.
ii. Scanning System:
This is a special type of machine like photocopiers.
Working patterns are placed on the scanning glass
and then marker is made in a selected size.
Grade ruler is used for making other sizes.
Advantages and disadvantages
Suitable for large-scale production.
Marker efficiency is higher than manual method.
Least amount of wastage of fabric.
If required, printout of marker is possible
anytime.
Automatic grading.
Less time and manpower required, so
production is higher.
High initial investment.
Skilled operator needed.
Marker efficiency
Marker efficiency is defined as a ratio of area
of marker used in a garment and area of total
marker.
It is determined from fabric utilization, the
percentage of total fabric that is actually used
in garment parts.
Marker efficiency and Fabric utilization is not
same thing. In marker efficiency calculation
fabric wastage due to end bits and end loss is
not included but in fabric utilization
calculation all kinds of fabric wastage are
included.
How to calculate Marker Efficiency?
Formula#1

Marker efficiency% = (Area of marker used for

garments / Area of total marker) * 100

Formula#2

Marker efficiency% = (Weight of fabric

consumed by patterns pieces in a marker / Total
weight of fabric of under the marker area)*100
Plainmeter
An instrument for measuring the area of any
plane figure, however irregular, by passing a
tracer around the bounding line.
Factors affecting marker
efficiency
Fabric characteristics-
Difference in face and back
Length wise directionality
Cross wise symmetry
Length of design repeat
Fabric width
Contd...
Characteristic of pattern Pieces-
Variety of garment sizes
Same Garment sizes
Shape of pattern pieces
Regular shapes
Irregular shapes
Size of pattern shapes
Larger pattern
Smaller pattern
Contd...
Grain orientation
Pattern of same grain orientation grouped
Tilting specific pieces by 1-2%
Fabric utilization standards
Basics 90-97 %
OPTIMUM FABRIC WIDTHS
MORE TIME FOR CUT PLANNING
LARGE VOLME

Fashion- 80% to 85%

Documentation of fabric utilization

RECORDING PREVIOUS CONSUMPTIONS
Cutting section
flowchart
Fabric classification
Fabric type: Fabric classification is based on visual
appearance. Theoretically it can be classified into two basic
types; both faces similar (e.g. solid colour poplin) and both
faces dissimilar (e.g. denim or pigment print). In first type of
fabrics though both faces appear to be similar (e.g. solid
colour poplin, discharge print with small motif, plain woven
yarn dyed stripe or check etc.) practically always fabrics are
treated as both faces dissimilar for garment manufacturing
purposes. So we are going to consider the both faces are
dissimilar for all fabric types available. Next stage of
classification depends on direction or symmetry of printed
or woven motifs or nap direction. Primarily the visual motifs
that can be classified into eight different types. Nap
direction in a fabric is basically the direction of protruded
fibres in fabric surface. Examples are velvet, brushed cotton
etc.
Warpwise Stripe Warpwise Stripe
Symmetric Asymmetric
Weftwise Stripe Weftwise Stripe
Symmetric Symmetric
Fabric spreading
This is a preparatory operation forcutting and consists of
laying plies of cloth one on top of the other in a predetermined
direction and relationship between the right and wrong sides
of the cloth. The composition of each spread i.e. the number
of plies of each color is obtained from the cut order plan.
Number of plies depends on:

1. Capacity of the cutting machine

2. Volume of production
3. Type of fabric itself (rough or slippery)
4. Thickness of fabric
Types of fabric spreading
The spreads can be of two basic types:

1. Flat spreads-all plies are of the same length.

2. Stepped spreads-this as the name suggests, is
built up in steps, with all the plies in one step having the
same length. A stepped spread is generally used when
the quantities to be cut precludes the use of a flat
spread. The cut order plan details the colors and ply
lengths for a stepped spread, if it is needed.
Requirements of spreading
1. Alignment of plies in both length and width
direction-length and width of fabric must be at least
equal to marker length and width.

2. Elimination of fabric defects/flaws-any faults

identified on the incoming fabrics will be tagged and
will be avoided.

3. Correct ply direction (especially for

asymmetrically printed fabrics)-all faces up, all
faces down, face to face etc.
Contd...
4. Correct ply tension-ply tension must be uniform and
as much less as possible.

5. Avoidance of distortion in the spread during

cutting-polythene sheets are used under the bottom ply
to resist friction of the bottom ply with the base plate of
the knife.

6. Fabrics must be flat and free from any crinkle &

crease-these cause defect in garments due to variation
in dimension.

7. Checks and stripesshould be matched.