Textile Testing and Product

Evaluation
Different factors
Test Methods
Test Results
Sources of Standard Test Methods
ASTM :American Society for Testing and
Material.
AATCCC: American Association of Textile and
Colorists.
ISO : International Standards Organization.
BSI : Bureau of Indian Standards.
BSI : British Standards Institution
CSA : Canadian Standards Association.
Atmospheric Condition for testing
Relative Humidity : Standard 65 +/- 2%.
Temperature : 21 +/- 1 C ( 70 +/- 2 F ).
Test samples should be left for 4 hours to
reach equilibrium with standard RH and
temperature.
Strength Properties of Apparel
Strength of fabric or garment indicates its
ability to resist mechanical damage due to the
stresses of normal wear and laundering or
dry-cleaning.
Strength properties of Apparel can be divided
into the following three areas
1. Fabric Strength.
2. Seam Strength.
3. Resistance to yarn slippage.
Fabric Strength
Fabric strength can be divided into three areas
1. Resistance to tensile force ( Breaking
Strength ).
2. Resistance to tearing/ shearing force ( Tear
Strength)
3. Resistance to bursting force ( bursting
Strength)

Breaking Strength
Used for woven fabrics.
Can be measured length/ width or both.
A specimen of 15 cm X 10 cm is placed
between two sets of jaws 7.6 cm apart.
Jaws are then pulled away from each other
creating a tensile force on the fabric
specimen, ultimately resulting a break in the
fabric specimen.
Tearing Strength
Tearing strength refers to its resistance to
tearing or shearing force.
Used for shirting, bloused , military fabrics
such as parachutes, test not suitable for the
knit fabrics , felts or non woven fabric with
exceptions.
Tear Strength
A rectangular specimen is cut in the centre of
a short edge to form two tongued ( trouser
shape ) specimen, in which one tongue is
gripped in upper jaw and other in lower jaw.
The separation of the jaw is continuously
increased to apply a force to propagate the
tear.
Force to propagate and continue the tear is
calculated from autographic chart recorder or
microprocessor data collection.
Bursting Strength
Bursting test are done for knitted fabrics , light
weight woven fabric and the non woven
fabrics.
Bursting strength is the force , uniformity
distributed over a given area, needed to break
a fabric when applied at right angels to the
fabrics.
Seam Strength
Seam strength is tested in almost the same
manner as fabric breaking strength or tearing
strength
Seam Failure in a garment can occur because
of either failure of sewing thread, leaving the
fabric intact , or fabric rupture leaving the
fabric seam intact or both breaking at the
same time.
Elements affecting the Seam Strength
Stitch type : Seam made with chain stitch will be
stronger than seam made with lock stitch.
Thread Strength.
SPI ( Stitches per inch ). Up to a level will increase the
strength and beyond that level will weaken the fabric
so seam will be intact but fabric will get ruptured.
Thread Tension : Increasing the tension beyond a
certain point will lead to seam puckering.
Seam Type : Lapped felled seam will be stronger from
the lapped seam.
Seam Efficiency : It is defined as the seam strength
expressed as % fabric breaking strength.
Elasticity : Elasticity of the seam or stitching should be
slightly greater than that of material which it join.

Additional
Seam Slippage in case of woven fabric
depends on the stitch rate, weave structure
and the width of the seam allowance.
Seam cracking in case of the knitted fabric
depends on the elasticity.
Fabric Stretch Properties
Stretch is required in all apparel products
more in sportswear and swimwear.
Stretch requirement are more at Across
Shoulder , Neck Rib , Hip, Knee and Elbow .
Stretch
Stretch recovery.
Dimensional Changes is Apparel due to
Laundering , dry cleaning and Pressing
Shrinkage due to fiber, yarn and fabric
shrinkage. ( Pre Shrunk by Sanforizing ).
A fabric specimen marked 10 X 10 ( or max
1meter X 1 meter) in both length and width
with indelible ink is washed/ dry-cleaned and
conditioned. Again the distance is calculated
and the shrinkage percentage is calculated.
Based on requirement progressive shrinkage
can also be calculated for 3/5 wash.
Durable Press
Durable press is the term used to describe
fabric or garment that will retain its original
shape and smoothness and sharpness of
crease through wear and repeated laundering
and not require ironing.
Fabric / garment is washed 3/5 times and than
store at standard atmospheric condition for 2
hrs and than compare with scale of 1-5.
Bow and Skewness (BIAS)
Filling yarn in woven and coarse in knitted are
perpendicular to the selvedge in case there is
deviation bow and skewness( Bias) is noticed as
per the deviation.
Bow and Skewness can be induces during cloth
manufacturing , dyeing , stentering, finishing or
other operations where a potential exists for the
uneven distribution of tension across the fabric
width.
More prominent in color pattern and small parts.
Garment twisting.
No standard value for bow( Arc ) and Skew.
Both expressed in percentage.
Pilling
It is Surface defect characterized by little fiber
balls clinging to cloth surface and giving a
garment un unsightly appearance.
Such balls or pills are evident on the areas of
garments where some abrasion takes place
during normal wear such as collar , cuff , side
and back pockets of trousers and so on.
Fibers such as wool , polyester , nylon and
acrylic have a tendency to pill.
Earlier low twisted woolen knitted fabrics
and aggravated in the man made fibers.
Pilling depends on
Fiber length
Denier,
Fiber mechanical properties.
Yarn twist level,
Fabric construction,
Fabric finishing treatment
End use of the apparel.
Pilling test
Fabrics are mounted on the Martindale tester
and the face of the test specimen is rubbed.
Specimen is than tested against the visual
standards.
ASTM has developed three sets of five
photographic standards, each set
corresponding to the size of pills produced,
small , medium and large.
Compared to Scale 1-5.
Color Fastness
AATCC has developed three scales that help
visual comparison between the original color
and color change and /or staining of the test
specimen. These scales are gray scales for
color change and staining , and chromatic
transference scale.
Gray scale for color change
This scale consists of nine pairs of standard
gray chips , each pair representing a difference
in color or contrast ( shade and strength )
corresponding to numerical fastness rating.
Test result are rated by visually comparing the
difference in color represented by the scale.

Gray Scale for Staining
This scale consists of pairs of nominally white and gray
color chips , each representing a difference in color or
contrast ( shade and strength ) corresponding to a
numerical rating for staining.
A swatch of the unstained fabrics and the tested piece
of it are placed side by side in the same plane and
oriented in the same direction.
The visual difference between the original unstained
and tested stained pieces is compared with the
difference represented by the gray scale which
corresponds to the contrast between the original and
tested specimen.
Rating from 1-5, 5 means no difference in color
between the original material and the tested piece of
it.

Chromatic Transference Scale
This scale makes use of 30 color chips.
The neutral chip representing the horizontal no 5
as well as neutral gray chips were selected to
correspond to the gray chips of all the steps on
the gray scale for staining.
The rows are placed and aligned so that every
color shows a similar graduation in depth in a
vertical line, ranging from the lightest tint on top
to the heaviest tints on the bottom.
The rows are mounted with sufficient space
between them to show circular holes cut in the
card over each clip in the five horizontal rows.
Chromatic Transference Scale
The fabric exhibiting the transferred color to
be evaluated is placed behind the card on
which the chips are mounted so that a
representative part of the colored portion is
visible through one of the circular holes in the
vertical column closest to it in character of
shade.
The standard undyed fabrics used in the
colorfastness testing are multifiber and 100%
cotton.
Multifiber fabric : There are several styles of
multi fiber fabrics used in conjunction with
colorfastness tests, but the fabrics used most
for evaluating staining in laundering , dry
cleaning , and perspiration are the style No 1
and 10 which are made of fibers listed below.
Cotton fabrics : This fabric is used for
evaluating color transfer in crocking ( rubbing )
and hot pressing. It is made of desized and
bleached 80 X 80 , 100% cotton print cloth.
Metamerism: When two objects are seen to have
the same color under one light source but a
different color under another light source , then
this phenomenon is called metamerism.
To eliminate the source of light as a variable
element, most of the test methods for
colorfastness tests recommend evaluation of the
test specimen under north sky light or an
equivalent light source with an illumination of at
least 538 lux ( 50-ft candles) on the specimen
surface. The Macbeth shade chamber provide
such a light source. Also it provide day light and
incandescent light, so a test specimen may be
evaluated under more than one lighting
condition.
Colorfastness to Washing
The instrument used in this test method is called
Launderometer.
A piece of multi-fiber fabric is attached to a test
specimen of the size 5 X 10 cm.
This specimen is then put in a steel jar filled with
soap solution and several tiny steel balls.
This jar is than placed in the launderometer
which can accommodate up to 20 jars, one
specimen per jar.
These jar are than rotated for 45 minutes to
create agitation action.
Colorfastness to Washing
Then the specimen are removed from the jars,
rinsed under running water and allowed to
dry. Then the staining of the multifiber fabric
is rated using either the gray scale for staining
or chromatic transparence scale, and the
change in the original color /shade of the
specimen is rated using gray scale for color
change.
Rating should not be worse than class 3 or 4
Colorfastness to Dry Cleaning
This test is done in the same way as colorfastness
to washing , except that instead of using soap
solution , dry cleaning solution
(perchloroethylene ) is used.
Perchloroethylene is used in this test because
1. It is as extensively used as the stoddard solvent
(petroleum solvent) in commercial dry-cleaning
in the united states and
2. It is more severe in solvent action than the
Stoddard solvent. A color unaffected by
perchloroethylene will not be affected by
petroleum solvents , where as the converse is
not always true.
Colorfastness to Dry Cleaning
If it is necessary to evaluate the effect of
water spotting , solvent spotting and steam
pressing which are normally associated with
commercial dry-cleaning, then it is best to
send the fabric or garment for one or more
repeated dry-cleaning. Then evaluate this
sample compared to the original, non dry-
cleaned sample.
Colorfastness to Light
The resistance to degradation of fabric dyes
and prints due to light is an important
requirement of a garment.
The assessment of fastness to light
necessitates the use of reference standard.
Whether exposure are made in actual sunlight
or by accelerated means of utilizing artificial
light source.
Reference standard.
Blue Wool Standards.

Colorfastness to Light
The test instrument used in the colorfastness of
light test is called the Fadeometer and/or
waethrOmeter.
This instrument uses , as a light source, either a
carbon-or Xenon arc lamp .
Artificial light Source : Consistent and speedy
results but light source should simulate the effect
of the natural Sunlight.
Carbon arc is stronger in the ultraviolet region
and would be expected to produce a greater
effect on colored Textiles, where as Xenon arc
exposure generally correlates more closely with
sunlight.
Time and intensity.
Colorfastness to Crocking
The test is designed to determine the degree
of color that may transfer from the surface of
colored textiles to the other surfaces by
rubbing.
A colored test specimen fastened to the base
of a Crock meter is rubbed with a white test
cloth is assessed by comparison with AATCC
chromatic transference scale or gray scale for
staining.
Wet and dry both colorfastness to crocking are
tested.
Colorfastness to Perspiration
A specimen of colored textile 6 X 6 cm is wet
with a simulated perspiration solution ,
subjected to a fixed mechanical pressure in
contact with a piece of multifiber test fabric,
also wet with the simulated perspiration
solution , and allowed to dry slowly at a
slightly elevated temperature for 6 hours.
Test specimen is evaluated for color change
and staining on the multifiber test fabric with
the help of the AATCC gray scale.
Colorfastness to Abrasion
Frosting is a change of color in a fabric caused
by localized abrasive wear.
It may be the result of differential wear, as in
multicomponent blends in which the fibers do
not match in shade, or of the abrasion of
single-fiber construction in which there is
variation in or incomplete penetration of
dyestuff.
There are two method
1. The emery method and
2. Screen wire method.

The Emery method.
Suitable for color change over a long period of
time.
The test specimen is mounted over a diaphragm
inflated under controlled air pressure and rubbed
multidirectional against an emery abradant
surface mounted on weighted head for specific
number of rubs for a specified time.
Any change in the color of the specimen is
evaluated by comparison with the gray scale for
color change.

The Screen wire method
Suitable for color change over a short period
of time.
The test specimen is mounted over a foam
rubber cushion and rubbed multidirectionally
against a wire screen mounted on a weighted
head for a specific number of a rubs or for a
specified time. Any change in color of the
specimen is evaluated by comparison with
gray scale for color change.
Color fastness to Heat : Hot Pressing
Many disperse dyes , since they have no strong
ionic group , exhibit a significant vapor pressure
and, when exposed to sufficient heat , will go
from solid to a gas without passing through a
liquid phase.
If a fabric dyed with disperse dye is exposed to
high temperature , the dye may sublime and the
dye vapor may be absorbed by adjacent fibers.
This test method is intended for determining the
resistance of the color of textiles of all kind and in
forms to color change and color transfer.
Color fastness to Heat : Hot Pressing
The test method is intended for determining
the resistance of color of textiles of all kinds
and in all forms to color change and color
transfer when subjected to hot pressing. Tests
are given for hot pressing when a fabric is dry
damp and wet. The textile end use usually
determine which tests should be conducted.
Colorfastness to Burnt gas Fumes
For assessing resistance of color of textiles of
all kinds and in all forms to fading when
exposed to atmospheric nitrogen, as derived
from the combustion of illuminating or
heating gas.
This test should also be performed after
laundering or dry cleaning the sample to
check any effect laundering or dry cleaning
may have had on its resistance to fading.
Colorfastness to Ozone
This method is intended to determine the
resistance of the color of all kinds of textile to the
action of ozone in the atmosphere.
Fabrics are exposed to ozone in a test chamber at
a specified temperature and humidity.
Humidity is a definite factor in the rate of color
change with ozone , either of the following two
conditions may be used
1. Ambient room temperature , and RH 65%
2. 40degree +/- 4 degree and 85 +/- 5% RH
Rating should not be worse than 4
Other Test
Banned Amines ( Azo , PCP and
formaldehyde)
Print durability.
Print fastness.
Embroidery thread fastness
Trim fabric and trims attached.
Soil / Stain Release( SR )
A fabric specimen is stained.
Laundered in standard conditioned and than
compare with scale of 1-5.
Fabric Thickness
Fabric thickness is not measured as a routine
quality control procedure; warmth an bulk are
dependent.
Abrasion resistance., no. of fabric lays in
cutting garments.
Thickness depends on the pressure.
Water Resistance and water
Repellency
Water resistance is an important property of
fabric intended for uses such as raincoats,
tents, umbrellas.
Three ways in which water can pass through
1. By wetting the fabric , followed by capillary
action which brings the water to the other
side.
2. By pressure of the water , forcing it through
the opening of the fabric.
3. By a combination of the two actions already
mentioned.
Waterproof
A waterproof fabric is a fabric that is coated or
impregnated to form a continuous wall against
the passage of water or a continuous sheet of
rubber or plastic.
Water resistance is the ability of a fabric to
resist wetting and penetration of water.
A water repellent fabric is one whose fibers
are usually coated with hydrophobic type
compounds and whose pores are not filled in
the course of treatment. This type of fabric is
quite permeable to air and water vapor.
Resistance to water penetration increases
rapidly with increasing weight and thickness
of the fabric.
Woven fabric generally have better resistance
to water penetration than corresponding knit
structures.
Water Repellent finishes
Hydrocarbon: Hydrocarbon repellent which
are hydrophobic and oleophillic, repel water
but quickly pick up soil and stains.
Fluorocarbon repellents are both hydrophobic
and oleo phobic, not only fluorocarbon are
outstanding water repellents but they also
resist oily and greasy substance.
Snagging
Snagging is as a defect caused by the pulling
or plucking of yarns from a fabric surface.
ASTM has two test methods , mace test
method and bean test method, for testing
snag resistance.

Abrasion Resistance
Abrasion or wear is the wearing away of any part of a
material by rubbing against another surface.
Carpets are often discarded because of extensive wear,
trouser and shirts because of fraying cuffs and collars,
worn seats and elbows. Abrasion because of friction
b/w cloth and cloth , cloth and external object or very
slowly due to friction b/w fibers and dust or grit.
The measurement of abrasion resistance is complex ,
the resistance to abrasion is affected by many factors
Inherent mechanical properties of the fibers
The dimension of fibers, structure of yarn
Construction of fabric
And the type , kind and amount of finishing material
added.
Abrasion Resistance
The following are the most common tests to
evaluate the abrasion or wear resistance for
apparel :
1. Inflated diaphragm method The specimen is
held in a fixed position and supported by an
inflated rubber diaphragm.
2. Flexing and abrasion method : Mainly used for
evaluating the abrasion resistance for corduroy,
velour and pile fabrics. In this method , a
specimen is subjected to unidirectional
reciprocal folding and rubbing over a metal bar
having specified characteristics.
Abrasion Resistance
3. Oscillatory Cylinder method: Used for any
fabric , In this test method a specimen is
subjected to unidirectional rubbing under
known conditions of pressure, tension and
abrasion action.
4. Rotary Platform method: Used for heavy
fabrics such as jeans, overcoat , carpets
etching this method specimen is abraded
using rotary rubbing action under controlled
conditions of pressure and abrasive action

Abrasion Resistance
5. Edge and fold abrasion method: Fabrics
frequently wear out on edges and folds such
as the cuffs and the vertical creases of
trouser, sleeve cuff , collars , and so on.
Evaluation of the resistance to abrasion may be
based on any of the following criteria
1. Number of rubs or revolutions required to
wear a hole in the specimen
Abrasion Resistance
2. The specimen is subjected to a certain
number of rubs or revolutions, and then one
of the following is evaluated.
Overall appearance, loss in color or shade ,
signs of damaged yarns fibers and so on
Loss in the breaking strength of the specimen
Loss in the weight of the specimen
Decrease in the thickness of the specimen.
Change in the air permeability of the
specimen.
Bonded and Laminated Apparel fabrics
A layered fabric structure where in a face or shell
fabric is joined to a backing fabric , such as tricot,
with an adhesive that does not significantly add
to the thickness of the fabrics
The problem associated with above fabrics are
localized delamination resulting in blisters or
bubbles, crack marks , puckering and complete
separation of face and back of the fabric.
For shrinkage specimen of 25cm X 25 cm is dry
cleaned / laundered three times.
For testing strength of bond three test specimen
of 15 X 7.5 cm in the length directions are taken.
Testing of Fusible Interlinings
The purpose of fusible interlining is to give shape
or form and improve aesthetics of a garment.
The best to test is to fuse the interlining with
actual fabric and test before the start of the bulk
production.
Shrinkage
Drape
Strength
Strike Back
Strike through
Bubbling.

Testing of Zippers
Zippers can be tested using any one or more
of the following ASTM test method:-
Durability of finish of Zippers to dry
cleaning/laundering
C/F of Zippers to Dry-
Cleaning/crocking/light/laundering
Resistance of Zippers to Salt spray (fog)
Measuring Zipper dimensions
Strength test of Zippers
Operability of Zippers.

Testing of Zippers
Zippers strength is usually tested in the
following areas:
1. Cross wise strength
2. Scoop pull-off.
3. Holding strength of stops.
4. Scoop Slippage
5. Resistance to cushioned compression of
sliders.
6. Slide deflection and recovery.
7. Resistance to twist of pull and slider
8. Resistance to pull of slider pull.
Elastic Waistband Testing
There are three properties of elastic
waistband that need testing
1. Shrinkage
2. Fit for the labeled size
3. Resistance to degradation ( becoming lose .
Loosing elasticity ) due to laundering
Test of Yarns
Elongation and Strength
Yarn Number
Yarn twist

Sewing thread
Diameter
Strength and Elongation
Shrinkage
Twist and Twist Balance.
Yarn Number.
Additional Trims
Buttons
Snap Fasteners