FASH 15 textiles aesthetic finishes

aesthetic finishes
aesthetic finishes change the appearance and/or hand of fabrics applied to a fabric with express purpose of altering some visual, textural, hand or other aesthetic dimension of the fabricsometimes AKA surface design
additive finishesfinishing chemical added to fabric to produce texture, luster, embossed designs and abrasion resistance subtractive finishessomething removed from fabric during finishing

aesthetic finishesluster
luster finishes produce a change in a fabrics light reflectance glazed a friction calendar produces a highly glazed surface chintz polished cotton

aesthetic finishesluster
cire similar to a glazed finish, except metal roll is hot to produce greater luster

aesthetic finishesluster
plasticized finish very thin layer of polymer added to dyed fabric moire have wood grain or watermarked appearance; used for somewhat formal looks in apparel & interiors

aesthetic finishesluster
schreiner have softer luster than most other luster finishesuses schreiner calendar which has a metal roller engraved with 200-300 fine diagonal line per inch

aesthetic finishesluster
embossed created using an embossing calendar that produces either flat or raised designs on fabric

aesthetic finishesdrape
drape finishes change the way a fabric falls or hangs over a 3D shape transparent & crisp produced by treatment with sulfuric acid in cotton fabrics; subtractive called parchmentizing lawn parchmentized to create organdy

aesthetic finishesdrape
burned-out produced by printing a chemical solvent on a blend fabric made of different generic fibersone fiber dissolves, leaving sheer areas

aesthetic finishesdrape
sizing fabric immersed in mixture containing waxes, oils, glycerine and softeners to add or control fabric body weighting metallic salt or plant-based compounds used to add weight and body to apparel fabric

aesthetic finishestexture & hand

embossed some have 3D raised or designed pattern

aesthetic finishestexture & hand

pleated made using a variation of embossing
pattern paper (hand)produces wider variety of pleated designs machine processblades pleat fabric as inserted between two heated rolls

aesthetic finishestexture & hand

puckered surface created by partially dissolving the surface of a nylon or polyester fabric

aesthetic finishestexture & hand

plisse converted from either lawn or printcloth gray goods by printing an alkali, sodium hydroxide, onto the apparel fabric in the form of stripes or designs

aesthetic finishestexture & hand

flocked fine natural or synthetic surface fiber is applied after a base fabric has been producedcan be localized or all over

aesthetic finishestexture & hand

embroidered decorated by hand or by machine with a surface-applied thread

aesthetic finishestexture & hand

expanded foam colored compound printed on fabric expands during processing to give 3D texture to fabric sheared pile or napped fabric in which the surface has been cut to remove loose fiber or yarn ends, knots or similar irregularities or surface flaws

aesthetic finishestexture & hand

brushed after shearing, fabric is usually brushed to clean off fiber ends

napped layer of fiber ends raised from the ground weave of a the fabric by mechanical brushing action

aesthetic finishestexture & hand

aesthetic finishestexture & hand

crepeing special compacting process to produce a fabric with a soft hand can create an all over texture or localized plisse effect

aesthetic finishestexture & hand

fulled improves appearance, hand, thickness, softness, body & cover of wool fabrics for apparel & upholstery

aesthetic finishestexture & hand

beetled fabric revolves slowly over wooden drum and is pounded with wooden hammer until yarn is flattened into an oval, not round, cross section

aesthetic finishestexture & hand

coronized process for heat setting, dyeing and finishing glass fiber in one continuous operation emerizing, sueding or sanding process used on fine silk-like fabrics; fabrics moved over two or more rollers with fine emery paper on the first roll and coarser paper on the second

aesthetic finishestexture & hand

abrasive, chemical or enzyme washes abrasive washpumice or other abrasive material saturated with a chemical and tumbled with fabric or garment chemical washchemicals partially destroy fiber & create irregularities; include alkalis, oxidizing agents, bleaches, etc enzyme washsimilar to chemical

aesthetic finishestexture & hand

silk boil-off removes sericin and creates a looser, more mobile fabric structure caustic treatment creates synthetic apparel fabric with hand and texture like silkcaustic soda dissolves 5-18% of fabric hand builders compounds such as silicone softeners and cellulase enzyme that soften http://textilemania.textilefabric.com/u_8/u_8_2.html fabric hand

participation activity: aesthetic finish identification

using your complete textile sample workbook, identify a fabric in the collection for each of the finishes discussed in class today this can also help you to complete your textile sample book