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INTRODUCTION
Sometimes you buy a skirt ,that u find a little tweaking. Sometimes you just want to make a change the garment. Altering your skirt can improve fit and give your wardrobe new life.
GENERAL PRINCIPLES
The following four general principles for pattern alterations are: Preserve pattern outline as far as possible. Preserve the original grain line so as to make slashes or folds either parallel or perpendicular to the grain line wherever needed. When altering adjoining edges, proportional lengths must be preserved.
PRINCIPLE
Slash and spread method. Slash and lap method. Pleat method.
PLEAT METHOD
Draw two parallel lines across the pattern at the place it is to be shortened. The space between these lines equal to the amount, the pattern is to be decreased. Fold on one line and bring it to the other line. The folded pleat will be half the width of the total decrease.
PROTURDING DERRIERE
Problem :
Because of the protruding back portion, the skirt rides up when worn. Hence, you need to increase the pattern at the width and also increase the length of the pattern.
PROTUDING DERRIERE
solution : Take the skirt back block. Draw a slash line from the waistline to the hemline parallel to the centre back. Slash through the dart nearer to the centre back. Similarly, at the hip area slash across the pattern form the centre back side seam.
Now, spread the pattern to the required amount along the width and the length of the pattern. Redraw the dart and the seam lines. The new dart at the waistline would be larger than the original dart.
FLAT DERRIERE
Problem : Loose garment hangs at the hipline Solution : Take the skirt back block. Draw a slash line from the waistline to the hemline parallel to the centre back. Slash through the dart nearer to the centre back. Similarly, at the hip area slash across the pattern form the centre back to the side seam
FLAT DERRIERE
Now, overlap the pattern to the required amount along the width and the length of the pattern. Redraw the dart and the seam lines. You can observe the small new dart than the original one.
PROTURDING ABDOMEN
Problem :
front. Solution : Take the skirt front and slash from the waistline to the hemline parallel to the centre front. Slash through the dart nearer through the centre front.
PROTURDING ABDOMEN
The required amount should be increased at the width and the length. Redraw the new dart and the seam lines. The new dart will be larger than the original. Spread the pattern across the pattern from centre front to the side seam.
WIDE HIPS
Take the skirt front block and draw a slash line from the hemline up to the thigh or hip area. Slash the pattern and spread to the desired amount. Finally, redraw the seam line from the waistline to the hem line. Similar changes need to be done on the skirt back block.
FLAT HIPS
Take the skirt front block and fold the desired amount along the side seam of the skirt. Care should be taken to fold parallel to the centre front. Similar changes need to be done on the skirt back block also. S
LENGTH AJUSTMENTS
The length adjustments can be done in two ways. Increasing the length Decreasing the length
CIRCUMFERENCE ADJUSTMENTS
It can be done by simply adding outside edges of pattern pieces. Divide the amount to be added by number of garment seams. Do not include CF ,CB saems in the count.
Using Slash and Spread method , it is possible to add fullness to pattern but the amount is restricted to 5 to 6.
CONCLUSION
Altering paper patterns may seem complex and confusing, but in reality it is all based on very simple principles.