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HANDLOOMS AND PLAIN WEAVE

Ankita Patel Caroline Muani Hema Apundoley Ketan Dhillon Rashida Tambuwala Ramdev Bharti

HANDLOOM
A handloom is a simple machine used for weaving in which no power is used.

1. Wood frame 2. Seat for weaver 3. Warp beam- let off 4. Warp threads 5. Back beam or platen

6. Rods used to make a shed


7. Heddle frame - heald frame - harness 8. Heddle - heald - the eye 9. Shuttle with weft yarn 10. Shed 11. Completed fabrica 12. Breast beam

13. Batten with reed comb


14. Batten adjustment 15. Lathe 16. Treadles 17. Cloth roll- take up

In a wooden vertical-shaft looms the heddles were


fixed in place in the shaft. The warp threads pass

alternately through a heddle and through a space


between the heddles (the shed), so that raising the

shaft raises half the threads (those passing


through the heddles), and lowering the shaft lowers the same threadsthe threads passing through the spaces between the heddles remain in place.

ADVANTAGE Its give employment a lot. No use of energy or power. One can make and use. Part time work. Hand looms could be set up anywhere, anytime, with little specialized equipment needed. They could be used to weave very basic

They could be modified to produce wide pieces of cloth or narrow ones, depending on the length of the supporting bar or branch. Linen, wool and cotton threads

could be woven on them.


It is comfortable.

It not for commercial use. Very old tradition. It is expensive. Time taker.

Plain Weave

Plain weave (also called tabby weave, linen weave or taffeta weave) is the most basic of three fundamental types of textile weaves (along with satin weave and

twill). It is strong and hard-wearing, used for fashion and


furnishing fabrics. In plain weave, the warp and weft are aligned so they form a simple criss-cross pattern. Each weft thread crosses the warp threads by going over one, then under the next, and so on. The next weft thread goes under the warp threads that its neighbour went over, and vice

Balanced plain weaves are fabrics in which the warp and

weft are made of threads of the same weight (size) and the
same number of ends per inch as picks per inch. A balanced plain weave can be identified by its checkerboard-like appearance. It is also known as one-up-one-down weave or over and under pattern. Basket weave is a variation of plain weave in which two or more threads are bundled and then woven as one in the

warp or weft, or both.


Some examples of fabric with plain weave are chiffon, organza, and taffeta.

Structure of Plain Weave In plain weave, each weft thread (filling) passes alternatively over and under each warp yarn in a square pattern. Alternative names It is also known as tabby, homespun or taffeta weave. Manufacture

On the loom, the plain weave requires only two heald


shafts. Each weft yarn goes alternately under and over the warp yarns across the width of the fabric.

Appearance It has a flat appearance. There are no distinct designs. However these may be produced if yarns have

contrasting colours or thicknesses. The various color


and weave effects that can be produced will be dealt with in another blog. Properties It is easily produced. This is the most made weave in the world. It is relatively inexpensive.

Variations of Plain weave

1. Square plain weaves


In such weaves, warp and weft are present in equal amounts, or in other words, warp cover factor is equal to the weft cover factor. These are used as surgical dressings, dairy cloths, muslin dress fabrics, parachute fabrics, handkerchief fabrics, fabrics for shoes and tents, sheeting fabrics;

canvas for transport covers and fabric for use as ribbons


in type writers or computers.

2. Warp-faced plain weaves In these fabrics, warp cover factor is greater than that of weft cover factor. This is normally achieved by having

more ends than picks per cm. the warp crimp is also high
in these fabrics, while weft crimp is low. Thus very faint lines across the width of the fabrics are produced. A typical fabric in this group is poplin. A typical construction for a polyester/ cotton poplin shirtings is 50x25; 16 tex x 16 tex; 14% x 93% giving a weight of 130g/m2 and a cover factor of 20.0+9.7 = 29.7.

3. Weft-faced plain weaves This is not a popular group of fabrics as it is normally produced with more than ends per cm, the rate of production in the loom will be greatly

reduced. The most popular fabric in this group is the


limbric, which is used for dress prints.

The appearance of a plain fabric can be changed in many ways. 1. The use of colour In the warp direction, colour stripes are produced along the length

of the fabric. In the filling direction, colour stripes are produced


across the width of the fabric. When used in both warp and weft directions, a check effect is produced. 2. Changing yarn court

Stripes and check effects can be produced by using different yarn count in one or both directions.

3. Changing the yarn twist

Using combinations of different twist levels and directions in the


warp or weft, different effects can be produced is the fabric due to the changes in the orientations of the fibers as shown.

4. Different Finishing treatment Treatments such as dyeing mercerizing with caustic soda or coating can change the characteristics of plain fabric.

VOILE AND CREPE FABRICS These are specialized types of plain weave fabrics. These fabrics are produced using highly twisted two fold

yarns. with the doubling twist in the same direction as


that of single yarn. For voile yarn the tex twist factor is generally between 5000 and 7000, while for crepe yarn, it is nearer to 9000. Voiles are used in lightweight, semi-opaque fabrics for dress saris and light filters. Crepes are used dress, blouses and support bandages.

Thank You !

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