Wilderness

THERE’S OFTEN debate about whether tourism opportunities on the West Coast can replace the many good-paying jobs that have been lost in the extractive industries over the years. Perhaps the Paparoa Track Great Walk will provide a definitive answer. A

Located in Mt Aspiring National Park, this four-day alpine crossing links two of the region's major river valleys. This spectacular area is surrounded by high glacier-covered peaks, waterfalls and lakes and is home to many rare and endangered species

WITH THE TRACK closed ahead and washed away behind, Dave How had no choice but to hunker down at Mackenzie Hut. He and 10 others had left Routeburn Falls Hut at around 10am on February 3, tramping through torrential rain, lightning and thunder, which

IF YOU’RE SEEKING accommodation with million-dollar views for the price of a hot lunch, you can’t go past New Zealand’s hut network. Like hotels of the hills, these adventurous abodes provide roaring fires, breathtaking views and a bed, all without b

WE ARRIVED AT D’Urville Hut on the edge of Lake Rotoroa to find two men – 50 and 18 years-old – drinking beer outside. We said hello and established they were staying one night, and had no other plans. Inside, there was one pack on a mattress and ano

YOU WON’T BE ALONE IF YOU’VE never heard of the ‘Apias’. It’s a remote mountain creek that begins as a trickle on the side of Crown Ridge in the northern Ruahine Range, then develops force as it passes through gorges and over waterfalls before finall

IF YOU ENJOY landscape photography you’ll know the trick to great images is to be in the right location at the right time. The rightest of times is usually the ‘golden hour’ – that time shortly after dawn and before sunset when the light is at its mo

CROSSING WHITCOMBE Pass appeals for two reasons. Firstly, it’s a classic Main Divide pass separating the gravel plains of the Rakaia from Westland’s lush temperate rainforests; a journey through such contrasting terrain is simply exhilarating. Second

GERARD CARRINGTON died aged just 20, but despite his youth, the young mountaineer had already made a substantial impact on the development of outdoor recreation in Canterbury. He is remembered to this day with a peak, hut and canyon in the Waimakarir

WHANGAREI HEADS has stirred my imagination as long as I can remember. Its jagged spine first entered my consciousness in early childhood, on long drives north to our family camping spot in Whananaki. Bundled into the back of my parents’ ‘74 Holden Pr

THE COROMANDEL Peninsula has sadly become renowned for overflowing car parks and hordes of visitors, but take the time to drive to its northern reaches, and you’ll find a different world. The overcrowded Cathedral Cove and golf cart culture of glitzy

IF YOU’RE KEEN enough to venture to Rob Roy Glacier and marvel at the lofty summits at the head of the valley, a little extra planning and preparation could help you reach a vantage point above the glacier. Rob Roy Peak (2644m) is within the grasp of

HIDDEN AWAY NOT far from Lake Heron is the well-preserved and quaint Double Hut. It’s a nine-kilometre walk from the road end car park and the hut is easy to reach in three hours, which can allow the opportunity to also climb the nearby hills for epi

WHEN TRAMPING, the promise of a hot meal at the end of the day is the dangled carrot I often need to put one foot in front of the other. There’s nothing so satisfying as sitting down on sore haunches, looking over a view, and indulging in the ceremon

Even before it opened, the Paparoa Track had star billing as New Zealand’s only purpose-built, dual-use Great Walk: for walking and mountain biking. It’s set in a special landscape; traversing a mountain range of outstanding karst geology, river cany

Waterproof shells can be literal lifesavers in the backcountry, yet many trampers go years without giving them a wash – perhaps because it’s easy to maintain the illusion that they’re clean. Fairweather trampers may seldom get them out of their packs

It’s probably safe to assume all Wilderness readers wash their bedsheets, but when surveyed, just a third had ever washed their sleeping bag. If left uncared for, oils and sweat from your body can permeate and dampen down, affecting the performance o

POTATOES might be a bit on the heavy side to carry, but I don’t mind in the slightest when the end result is these hot crispy fries done fresh in the frying pan. The trick is to slice them thinly and make sure you use a large pan or do them in severa

I’ve used an MSR Whisperlite above the bushline for years, but a Jetboil has taken over on shorter trips. Below the bushline, I’ll often use a small fire to cook over. It’s much nicer, and is just a matter of being careful, never leaving it unattende

This is directly related to the warmth and weight of a sleeping bag. The higher the fill power (FP), the more air – and hence warmth – an ounce of down can trap. A high number also suggests the bag will be lighter – because less down is needed to kee

A high cuff supports the ankle under heavy loads and over uneven terrain. A sticky rubber compound with deep, mud-shedding multi-directional lugs to grip all terrain types and provide purchase for launching your next step. Sharp edges bite into loose

What inspired your journey? The time had arrived in my life to plan and embark on an epic thru-journey. Once I’d settled on the idea, I couldn't put it down. I’d spend every second of free time poring over maps of New Zealand, plotting a fantasy rou