Fabric Design

Lecture 14
Rib & Cord Structures I
Bedford Cord

Bedford Cord shows vertical cords in the cloth. Two types of threads are used for this design, cutting threads and cord threads. There are two cords in one repeat. Generally the cutting ends are plain, and two cutting ends are placed between two cords, so in a repeat cutting ends are used. The theory of production of cords is to provide weft floats at the bac! of the cloth. " pic! floats in one cord and interlaces in the other. It is usual to float alternate pic!s in the cords, or to float two consecutive pic!s in one cord and two in the other. The weft floats are not visible at the face of the cloth, because the cloth will contract due to tension. The cord ends are usually plain or twill based. In the following design #$ ends are used in a cord, and plain base is used. The ends will be %#$ & '( ) * ' and pic!s are ' & ' * , because plain is co+pleted on ' pic!s and two pic!s are floated. ,"""B-- ,.--/// ,0//B-- ,.--1"" 2 ' X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X

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3ith float on two pic!s ,B-4""" ,.--/// ,"""B-- ,///.-X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X 2' X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X

In case of twill base, it is easy to fill pic!s by going fro+ left to right, e.g., # up # down # up in case of '5# twill. ,"6B.-C ,.-46B X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X ,B16.-C ,.-4467 ,0B..-C ,.-4B1C X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X 2 '' X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X

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The stuffer threads, also called wadding ends can be used to give cord ribs pro+inence as well as to increase the weight and strength of the fabric. Two or +ore e&tra warp threads of a coarse count are so+eti+es introduced in each cord. These e&tra threads never interlace with the weft, but lie perfectly straight between the ridges of their respective cords and the floating wefts. So at the weft float they are !ept up and at the interlace+ent of warp and weft they are !ept down. The cloth will contract due to tension and the stuffer threads will not be seen. Stuffer threads are shown by S below ,"0'"--- ,.--6" " ,0'01--- ,.--6 "/ 2 '7 X X X X S X X X S X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X S X X X S X X X X X X X X S X X X S X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X S X X X S X X X X

Fabric Design

Color effects can also be produced by using pic!s of different colors for the two cords. It should be noted that any pic! is visible only in one cord, and in the other cord it is floating down. So if warping pattern is +ade in which ends of one card of green color, and ends of one end are of red color, then by using alternate pic!s of green and red color which interlace only with their respective colors, solid color strips can be produced. X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X X Red Pick Green Pick Red Pick Green Pick

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