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A County of Cooks
Rick Stein has taken one small Cornish port and built an empire; Henrietta Clancy leads the rebellion
IMAGES HENRIETTA CLANCY / JASON INGRAM

TROLLING around the narrow streets of the prettily manicured little fishing village of Padstow, its clear to see why some embittered locals refer to the place as Padstein. Ricks branded establishments are everywhere; he is at once a restaurateur, a hotelier, a butcher, a baker and a candlestick maker well, maybe not the latter, but his ex-wife Jill does run a gift shop in the vicinity, and they sell plenty of candles. As an unfailing advocate of the merits of fish his mantra being Nothing is more exhilarating than fresh fish simply cooked he set up in Padstow 33 years ago and spent the nineties freshescapes.com 33

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churning out television series and spin-off books; he now runs a fish cookery school and four restaurants alongside a delicatessen, a patisserie and 40 guest bedrooms. So although it was certainly well deserved, Id imagine that there was a fair bit of local scowling when Stein was awarded his OBE in 2003 for services to West Country Tourism. Its common knowledge that Stein has bombarded the Cornish food scene with staggeringly high-quality cuisine what seems to be lesser known is that this doesnt mean that hes monopolised it. Rather, he has set in motion a kind of gastro empire that has expanded beyond his outlets; many of the chefs who train beneath Steins watchful eye are inspired to go forth and head up some local competition, spreading their expertise and passion around the north-west coast of Cornwall. Such a high calibre of fare has made seasoned critics of both the villagers and the hundreds of holidaymakers that flock here all year round alike, and Im pretty sure that anything falling short of the mark would be sent packing fairly pronto. With this in mind Ive decided to use this trip to Padstow to prove that if you so desire, you can pitch up to this village and feast on the most delectable cuisine without ever setting foot on Stein soil. And I intend to have a tasty couple of days ahead of me.

Travel Essentials
Insider information
WHERE TO STAY
Woodlands Country House B&B have double rooms available from 102 per night during high season (25th MaySept) www.woodlands-padstow.co.uk

HOW TO GET THERE

Air Southwest fly to Newquay from Leeds, London City, London Gatwick, Manchester and Newcastle www.airsouthwest.com

Previous page: Padstow port at sunset. Opposite: Dusk in the harbour This page: clockwise from above, Assistant Executive Chef of St. Petrocs, Paul Harwood, David from Bin Two in his wine merchants, heading out to sea.

WHERE TO RENT A CAR

Europcar are based at the airport and offer www.europcar.co.uk

WHERE TO EAT
All of these places will require advance booking in high season: Custard, www.custarddiner.com Paul Ainsworth at Number 6, www. number6inpadstow.co.uk St Petrocs, www.rickstein.com/StPetrocs-Bistro

WHERE TO SHOP
Padstow Farmshop www. padstowfarmshop.co.uk

The most important meal

The excellence starts with breakfast. Im staying at the Woodlands Country House B&B in Treator, two minutes from Padstow, where the man who presides over proceedings in the kitchen takes the meal so seriously that hes written two recipe books on the subject: Breakfast and Brunch. Hugo Woolleys morning feasts are legendary and stretch from lavish takes on the classic eggs benedict to compotes and cakes, all of which are lovingly assembled from fresh local farm produce (I recommend wrapping a slice of treacley banana cake in a napkin for later if you cant fit it first thing). Hugo and his wife Pippa moved down to Cornwall from London a couple of years ago, bought a large Victorian house and set to work decorating eight guest rooms with an assortment of family heirlooms and local art. Pippa has thought of everything and a fridge sits outside every room to house fresh milk because Hugo and I despise UHT, and Hugo thinks ahead: if you get a parking ticket Ill pay for it park where you like. I dont approve of tourists having to pay fines. Our bedroom is at the back of the building with roof to floor windows offering a spectacular view of rolling Cornish hills and a fellow guest watching his dog frolicking about (well-behaved dogs are welcome at Woodlands). The guest living space,

USEFUL WEBSITES
The National Lobster Hatchery for an interesting lesson www. nationallobsterhatchery.co.uk

Hugo thinks ahead: If you get a parking ticket Ill pay for it park where you like. I dont approve of tourists having to pay fines

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the Blue Room, deserves a mention, with its vibrant walls, plush sofas and a well-stocked honesty bar, as does the DVD library that lines the hall, which my companion for the trip, my mother, gathers a small pile from as we make our way upstairs on the first night I notice that Rick Steins Mediterranean Escapes makes the shortlist. She pops it into the DVD player later but the combination of an epic soak in the bath and the weight of my feather duvet is so sedating

that Im asleep before the on-screen Rick has even picked up his knife.

The raw material

Its hard to turn a corner in the village without coming face to face a waft of freshly baked bread or tripping over a a sign advertising the new seasons asparagus/ rhubarb/ spring lamb; indicators that the raw materials of delicious cooking are in abundance here. The Padstow

Farmshop situated on the Tregirls farm just a two-minute drive from the village centre is a cornucopia of such things. Youll find boxes of loveable misshapen organic veg, enough Cornish fudge varieties to give you toothache just from eyeing up the shelves, an abundance of Cornish cheeses, rows of handmade everything from chutneys to chocolates (much of which is reassuringly plastered in Taste Award winning stickers) and one rosy-cheeked

butcher, standing behind some choice cuts of traditionally reared meats and proudly telling you the many local restaurants he supplies. Back in the village centre, Steins fish cookery school a boxy unassuming eighties building that looks eerily like a sixth form block sits 30 metres back from the sea, with a view obscured only by a lobster hatchery. For anyone that lives in fear of the lobster being overfished, dying out and making thermidor a thing of the past, this place is important. Its especially important for the economic stability of Cornwall, a county which relies heavily on fish and seafood for its income. Its inside this building that research takes place into the sustainability of lobsters. Its from the shore to the slopes as I make my way to the Camel Valley Vineyard in Bodmin. Despite his patriotic palate, Steins own brand of wine comes from his Tower Estate vineyard in Australia, but the father and son team Bob and Sam Lindo have proved that Cornish soil is more than capable of hosting some 20,000 vines

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and producing some good stuff according to Oz Clarke. They make fruity and fresh red, ros, white and sparkling wines that embody what has become known as the distinctive Cornish style: reflective of a mild climate, clear sunlight and pure air. A climate that promises sunny slopes for the south-facing hillside of Camel Valley. Their fizz, the Camel Valley Brut Cornwalls first sparkling wine did very well indeed in the International Wine Challenge 2005 and its well worth heading to the vineyard to enjoy a glass on the terrace overlooking the vines. (Guided tours and tastings can be booked for the more enthusiastic.)

Paul Ainsworth at Number 6 Sample this delicious starter from the Cornish chefs restaurant in your own kitchen. Its fiddly but worth it

Breakfast Fruit Compote

Very good for morning movements if you get my drift!
v

Australian sultanas and raisins lemon, halved and very thinly sliced 1 small orange, quartered and very thinly sliced 1 cinnamon stick l / 18oz apple juice (preferably the cloudy type)

Crispy Chicken Wings, Poached Apple and Pumpkin Soup

Serves 4
4 large corn-fed chicken wings (ask your butcher to top and tail them) Rock salt, thyme, 1 clove of garlic 250g / 9oz goose or duck fat 250g / 9oz French ribbed pumpkin, chopped 50g / 2oz unsalted butter 200ml / 7fl oz chicken stock 25g / 1oz Parmesan 1 large granny smith apple 200ml / 7fl oz stock syrup (250g / 9oz sugar in the same of water, brought to the boil slowly, stirred to dissolve, boiled for 2 mins and allowed to cool) 1 shot / 25ml / 1fl oz Amaretto 4 amaretti biscuits, crushed Truffle oil, to drizzle

Serves 4 (for a couple of breakfasts)

A total weight of 250g / 9oz of: Ready-to-eat dried apricots, dried figs, halved Pitted prunes dried apple rings, halved, golden or

Put all the fruit and the cinnamon stick into a saucepan and fill with water to just below the surface of the fruit. Bring slowly to the boil; reduce to a simmer for 5 mins. Remove from the heat and pour in the apple juice to just above the surface of the fruit, stir in and leave to cool overnight. In the morning, take out the cinnamon stick and serve the compote cold with some thick, creamy yoghurt.

Dining out
With such an enviable wealth of ingredients around, its time to see what the restaurants can do with it. Custard, on the second floor of a building in the heart of Padstow, isnt as traditional as its name suggests. Though there is a canteen element great hunks of bread its juxtaposed with delicately steamed fish: the chef here was previously the sous chef at Steins most prestigious establishment, The Seafood Restaurant. Likewise the interior is muddled, a kind of Oxfam glam sees a Welsh dresser, juke box and tan leather booths illuminated by Cath Kidston lamp shades and a chandelier. But regardless of the decorative inconsistency, the food is unwaveringly excellent. The broccoli side dish with mustard vinaigrette has an addictive tang and the homemade garibaldi biscuit that accompanies my ice cream is buttery and loaded with juicy raisins. Paul Ainsworth from Number 6 is a slightly different breed of chef; his pedigree is Ramsay, rather than Rick, and hes proof that this landscape attracts a calibre of chefs whose handiwork is worthy of recognition. Pauls downright enthusiasm for his creations is detectable in each and every dish. During the course of our meal he proudly bounces around the dining room, smiling infectiously and offering assistance on my chronic case of menu indecision though hes not much help as every description of a dish seems to advertise its merits and he ends up promising to bring tasters of the things I dont choose. (Pippa assures me that this isnt preferential treatment, he spoils her too). Whatever you do, make sure you commence your meal with a seasonal fruit Champagne cocktail rhubarb was on the menu when I visited and I was told that the vegetable had been freshly poached and strained and

In the summer I chop in some fresh pineapple and fresh nectarines after the compote is cooked. The storage time reduces to about two days as opposed to five days, in the fridge. You could add an interesting twist to this recipe by replacing the cinnamon stick with an Earl Grey teabag. Remove from the cooling compote after half an hour.

Hugos Breakfasts Hugo places great inportance on this meal. Cook these and youll see why
First make the Hollandaise sauce: put a tablespoon of the reduced water and vinegar, the egg yolk, salt and pepper, into a bowl over simmering water and using an electric hand-whisk whisk to a ribbon consistency. This will take about 5 mins. Continue whisking and gradually add the warm clarified butter. Make sure the water in the pan is at a slow simmer and whisk until the sauce is like very thick cream or a light mayonnaise. Keep warm in a bowl over some hot not boiling water in a saucepan. Cook the bacon, after painting with a little oil, under the grill until crispy or nearly crispy. Boil some water with a teaspoon of vinegar, and soft poach the eggs for 3 mins. Meanwhile, cut the muffins in half and toast in the grill. Now you can build your Benedict you need to be swift to make sure its hot. Put out two warm medium plates. Arrange 2 or 3 cooked rashers of bacon on each half of toasted muffin (half on each

the remaining liquid reduced to produce an intensely fragrant and brightly coloured essence which was added to the fizz. Its well worth the trouble that goes into making it. I have nothing but praise for the food. The experience of eating an artichoke velout that hosted a softly poached egg atop a mushroom persillade was such that I may never forget it. Add to that the fact that Pauls bread and butter pudding is the best version of the dish that I have ever had the pleasure of popping into my mouth a medley of simple white bread, plump alcoholic sultanas and a rich crme anglaise peppered with fragrant vanilla seeds and you may be forgiven for booking your tickets solely on the strength of a reservation here.

Second thoughts
So my trip is nearly over and although Im feeling exulted by the quality of food Ive been exposed to, Im starting to question whether writing Stein off was entirely wise. What if Ive missed something? Its decided I must pop into a Stein restaurant; I head to St Petrocs, which serves Mediterranean-influenced bistro food, and dine on super-fresh mullet delicately cooked with fennel seeds. It is, of course, excellent. When it comes to fresh fish cooked simply there is no doubt that Stein is a master, but I stand by my statement there is so much more to Padstow than Rick Stein. Padstow (or Padstein, depending which side of the Tamar you fall), is without a doubt a blissfully delicious place to spend a couple of days.

Wash and dry the chicken wings. Season with salt, thyme and one crushed clove of garlic. Cover and leave for 4 hrs to remove some moisture from the skin. Wash the wings off and pat dry. Melt the fat, put the wings in and poach slowly for about 2 hrs or until the bone pops out. Leave to cool. In the meantime roughly chop the pumpkin into 2cm (in) dice. Melt the butter in a medium, thick-bottomed pan on a medium heat, add the pumpkin, season with salt and cover. Cook until soft, stirring every 5 mins. Bring the chicken stock to the boil in a separate pan and keep hot. When the pumpkin is soft and cooked, add enough hot stock just to cover it. Then add the Parmesan, check the seasoning and bring to a simmer. Remove from the heat, blitz in a liquidiser and keep warm. Core, peel and cut the apple into quarters, and place in the stock syrup with the Amaretto. Poach very gently for about 5 mins and leave to cool in the stock. Heat a dry frying pan and crisp the wings, skin-side down. Warm 4 bowls and heat up the apples in the Amaretto liquor and the pumpkin soup. When the wings are crispy, turn them over for few secs, then place on kitchen paper to drain. Place one in each bowl with the apple on top, pour the soup around them and sprinkle the crushed amaretti biscuits on top. Drizzle with truffle oil and serve.

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Eggs Benedict
A very international breakfast; I would recommend you have Eggs Benedict for a late Sunday breakfast, with a Bloody Mary. Traditionally, it is served with smoked ham, I prefer smoked bacon, it is more breakfasty. Serves 2
For the hollandaise sauce (a sauce blender or electric whisk is vital for this sauce) 1tbsp each of water, and white wine vinegar (boiled together until reduced by half) Yolk of 1 egg Salt and pepper 100g / 3oz clarified butter (melt unsalted butter extremely gently until the milky solids form in the bottom of the pan and you can pour off clear melted butter from beneath them, discarding the solids) 46 rashers of smoked streaky bacon, rind off (or some good smoked ham if you want to be traditional) Oil, for frying) 2 large (very fresh) eggs 1 English muffin (or 2 slices thick white toast, cut into a round about 10cm /4in in diameter) A couple of pinches of cayenne pepper Grilled tomato and chives or watercress, to serve

plate), and pour any oil and juices from the grill pan over the rashers. Take the poached eggs out of the water with a slotted spatula and lay the egg on top of the bacon. Spoon enough Hollandaise sauce over the eggs to cover (about a tablespoon or two). Dust the top with a pinch of Cayenne pepper or crushed pink peppercorns, and serve with a grilled tomato with chopped chives on top, or a handful of dressed watercress salad for Sunday brunch.

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