By Jason Koebler and Erin Delmore

Nonstop From Washington

Colorful neighborhoods and tango shows make Buenos Aires a vibrant place.

Washington has nonstop flights to more than 80 cities and 30 countries. Here are good places for music and dance: Buenos Aires and Austin.
Tango, Beef, and Wine: Buenos Aires
Why Now
Since the 19th century, Buenos Aires has been one of South Americas most important port cities. Located along the Rio de la Plata, it attracted many European immigrants, most notably Italians. The mix of people has given the porteos, as residents call themselves, an eclectic culture. Because Argentina is in the Southern Hemisphere, its seasons are the opposite of Washingtons. This month, daytime temperatures hover in the low 70s as South America heads into spring. The Argentine peso has fallen to its lowest rate in recent memory, making your trip cheaper. area known as the Microcentro. Its hard to miss El Obelisco. At 220 feet tall, its less than half the size of the Washington Monument, but its locationon the median of the 16-lane Avenida 9 de Juliomakes it one of the citys most recognizable landmarks. From El Obelisco, stroll down Diagonal Norte to the presidential office, the striking Casa Rosada. Juan and Eva Pern gave speeches from its balconyits recognizable from the movie Evita. You can tour the building for free. South of the Microcentro, La Boca is a working-class neighborhood and port known for its multicolored houses and shops. Leftover paint from maintaining barges was used on buildings. The result is a contrast of bright reds and yellows, blues and greens. A walk down its tourist-friendly street, Caminito, is full of vendors and impromptu tango shows. 10:40 hours

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Photograph of harbor by ralf Hettler; dancers by Hugh Sitton/corbis

Getting there: Continental, United, and US Airways offer nonstop service to Buenos Aires from Dulles. Round-trip fares start at $1,155.

Dont Miss

What to Do

Many of Buenos Airess famous monuments and Colonial buildings are in a downtown

La Boca is home to Boca Juniors, the continents most famous soccer team (bocajuniors.com.ar/en-us). Some of the worlds best players have worn its blue-and-yellow jersey, including Diego Maradona. If you take in a game at La Bombonera stadium, its best not to wear the opposing teams colors.
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Argentina is known for its steak and wine. At parrillas, or steakhouses, heaping rounds of meat are served on trays. Argentinean cuts are different than what youre probably used tothe best are bife de lomo (tenderloin) and bife de chorizo, a cross between sirloin and New York strip. For the adventurous, a typical parilla also offers offal and sweetbreads. Many parillas are tenedor libre, or all you can eat. Its hard to find a bad parilla in Buenos Aires, but one of the hottest places to enjoy it is La Cabrera (Jos Antonio Cabrera 5099; parrillalacabrera.com.ar). For a more traditional experience, try Don Julio (Guatemala 4691). Either way, pair your meat with a glass of Mendozan red wine. Some of Argentinas most famous authors, including Jorge Luis Borges, did much of their work in Buenos Aires cafes. Order a cortadosimilar to a latteand a pastry at La Puerto Rico Cafe (Alsina 416; lapuertoricocafe.com.ar) or Caf Tortoni (Avenida de Mayo 825; cafetortoni.com.ar), Argentinas oldest coffee shop. Both frequently feature tango shows. Buenos Aires has lots of designer and boutique hotels. Located in a converted convent, 1555 Malabia House (1555 Malabia; malabiahouse.com.ar; rooms from $140) bills itself as the citys first designer bed-and-breakfast. The elegant interior has been used for TV and movie sets. The sleek cE Hotel de Diseo (1695 Marcelo T. de Alvear; designce.com; from $140) features 28 rooms with a modern vibe. The ground floor has a wine bar serving tapas.

Where to Eat

bother bringing a chair, dont plan to see back-to-back bandsyou wont make it from one stage to another in time to get a decent spotand instead of driving, take the shuttle from downtown or rent a bike.

Where to Stay

BBQ, Tex-Mex, and Beautiful Music: Austin

Why Now
Austin has more live-music venues per capita than any other US city, and from October 8 through 10 it hosts Austin City Limits (aclfestival.com), one of its two major music festivals (the other is South by Southwest in March). This years lineup includes the Eagles, M.I.A., the Strokes, Sonic Youth, the Flaming Lips, Vampire Weekend, Norah Jones, and Washingtons own Ted Leo and the Pharmacists. You can buy a day pass or stay for all three days. This years festival is sold out, but tickets are often available through sources such as StubHub.com. Here are a few ACL Festival tips from a veteran: Bring water, wear sunscreen, avoid steep ATM fees by bringing cash, dont
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Even when Austin isnt in festival mode, live music saturates the nightlife scene. The Elephant Room (315 Congress Ave.; 512-473-2279; elephantroom.com) hosts live jazz in a dark basement bar with a Prohibition-era feel. The Continental Club (1315 S. Congress Ave.; 512-441-2444; continentalclub.com)the self-proclaimed granddaddy of all local music venues, having opened in 1957has multiple bands every night. South Congress Avenue merits a stroll anytime, but go the first Thursday of the month A music festival in Austin this month features acts ranging from for a block party of Texas- the Strokes to Norah Jones. size proportions, when stores stay open late and restaurants and bars tual and metaphysical volumes. offer drink specials. On Tuesday and Friday, The Harry Ransom Center (300 W. 21st head to Donns Depot (1600 W. Fifth St.; 512St.; 512-471-8944; hrc.utexas.edu) is a University of Texas museum with a Gutenberg 478-0336; donnsdepot.com) to see some seriBible and the first photograph ever, taken ous Texas two-stepping while Donn and the in 1826. Station Masters play live. Austin is a bike-friendly city, and one of the best routes is Lady Bird Lake Trail, with Dont Miss views of the lakes and the city skyline. You Austin is a great destination for vintage shopcan also station yourself on the Ann W. Richping. Try New Bohemia (1606 S. Congress Ave.; 512-326-1238; newbohemiaaustin.com) ards Congress Avenue Bridge over the lake for classic dresses; Cream Vintage (2532 Guaaround sunset to watch North Americas largest urban bat colony take flight at dusk dalupe St., 512-474-8787; 1714 S. Congress (512-416-5700 ext. 3636). Ave., 512-462-3000; creamvintage.com) for Home to the University of Texas, Austin upcycled and repurposed pieces; and Parts & has a wealth of eclectic bookstores. BookLabour (1117 S. Congress Ave.; 512-3261648; partsandlabour.com) for clothing People (603 N. Lamar Blvd.; 512-472-5050; designed by local artists. bookpeople.com) is the biggest independent, BookWoman (5501 N. Lamar Blvd., Suite A-105; 512-472-2785; ebookwoman.com) Where to Eat specializes in feminist titles, MonkeyWrench Tex-Mex connoisseurs love Austin. For great enchiladas, tacos, and hand-shaken margariBooks (110 E. North Loop; 512-407-6925; tas, head to Gueros (1412 S. Congress Ave.; 512-447-7688; guerostacobar.com). Another local favorite is Eastside Caf (2113 Manor Rd.; 512-476-5858; eastsideca3:20 hours feaustin.com), with such dishes as sesame catfish and artichoke manicotti in a sun-driedtomato cream sauce. The cafe grows its own organic produce in a back-yard garden. The Salt Lick (18300 FM 1826; 512-8584959; saltlickbbq.com), named Americas tastGetting there: United flies nonstop to Austin iest barbecue by the Travel Channel, is worth from Washington Dulles Airport. Round-trip the drive to Austins outskirts for heaping nonstop fares start at $328 in October. portions of beef, sausage, and pork ribs.

What to Do

monkeywrenchbooks.org) is a progressive shop with film screenings, Resistencia Bookstore (1801-A S. First St.; 512-416-8885; salmonrojo.tumblr.com) hosts political forums, and Whole Life Books (1006 S. Lamar Blvd.; 512443-6794; wholelifebooks.org) is full of spiri-

Photograph by cambria Harkey

Travel Directory

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For breakfast or a late-night bite, nothing beats Magnolia Cafe (1920 S. Congress Ave., 512-445-0000; 2304 Lake Austin Blvd., 512-478-8645; themagnoliacafe.com), which is open 24 hours and serves everything from gingerbread pancakes to Mag Mud, a concoction of black bean, queso, and avocado. Food trailers dot the Austin landscape, with many headed by former sous chefs from top restaurants. A local favorite is Odd Duck (1219 S. Lamar Blvd.; 512-695-6922; oddduckfarmtotrailer.com), which bases the menu on whichever farm-fresh ingredients come in on a particular daythink quail and potatoes or pork-belly sliders. Its open for dinner only. Next door, Gourdoughs (1219 S. Lamar Blvd.; gourdoughs. com) makes doughnuts such as the Funky Monkey (with grilled bananas and creamcheese icing) and the Flying Pig (maple icing and bacon). Cutie Pies (1600 S. Congress Ave.; 512-589-7979; cutiepiewagon. com) offers a buttermilk pie thats to die for, and East Side King (1618 E. Sixth St.; 512422-5884; eastsidekingaustin.com) has an Asian-infused menu with beet home fries and pork-belly steamed buns. Austin is home to the flagship Whole Foods market (525 N. Lamar Blvd.; 512476-1206). This center of all things organic has an overwhelming number of food stations as well as a winter ice-skating rink on top.

Where to Stay

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444-7322; sanjosehotel.com) is low in price and high in charm, with Spanish-style bungalows and courtyards as well as bike, typewriter, and Polaroid-camera rentals. Rooms from $95. Hotel Saint Cecilia (112 Academy Dr.; 512-852-2400; hotelsaintcecilia.com) offers studios, suites, and bungalows, some with fireplaces, private backyards, and pool-view porches. Some accommodations are inspired by the works of Andy Warhol, William S. Burroughs, and Hunter S. Thompson. Rooms from $295. The Driskill (604 Brazos St.; 512-4745911; driskillhotel.com) is a lush retreat with marble-and-leather opulence. Rooms from $189. The Mansion at Judges Hill (1900 Rio Grande; 800-311-1619; mansionatjudgeshill. com) is in a former mansion with tall French doors, antiques, and a wraparound veranda. W Rooms from $169.
Former editorial intern Jason Koebler (jasontpkoebler@gmail.com) wrote about Buenos Aires. Assistant editor Erin Delmore (edelmore@washingtonian.com) wrote about Austin.

Hotel San Jos (1316 S. Congress Ave.; 512-

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