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Rock Climbing Knots - Alpine Butterfly Knot

The Alpine Butterfly is generally considered to be one of the strongest and most secure loop knots. It is strong, secure, and easily tied. It can be tied in the middle of a rope when you don't have access to the ends. It can be pulled in two or three directions without distorting, and it can be used to strengthen a damaged rope by isolating the damaged area. These things make the Alpine Butterfly a very versatile and valuable knot to know. If you are tying the Alpine Butterfly at the end of a rope, you can tie a Stopper Knot to the free end of the rope for added security.

Step 1: Twist the rope to form a loop. Step 2: Form another loop by twisting the loop that you made earlier. This creates two loops which resemble the number 8. Step 3: Bring the second loop (the one at the top) down and underneath the rope. Step 4: Pass the second loop through the first one. Step 5: Pull the two ends of the rope in opposite directions.

Rock Climbing Knots - Bowline

The Bowline has been called the "King of Knots" and it is used around the world in one form or another. This type of knot opens under ring loading and is prone to loosening up when there is no load on it (especially in some synthetic ropes). This increases the possibility of it coming undone or distorted. In addition, the breaking strength of this knot is as much as 40% (very high, meaning that it reduces the strength of the rope heavily). Nevertheless, the bowline can be used for a wide range of jobs.

Step 1: Twist the rope to form a crossing turn or a loop. You can do this by bringing the working end under the standing part. Step 2: Pass the tip of the working end through the crossing turn or loop. Step 3: Move the tip of the working end underneath the standing part. Step 4: Pass the tip of the working end through the crossing turn or loop again. Pull to tighten.

Double Figure Eight Loop

Also known as bunny ears, the Double Figure Eight Loop is tied to equalize the load on two anchors, each clipped to the 'ear'. This knot is considered to be strong and secure, and it is fairly easy to adjust the size of the 'ears' or loops by moving rope from one of the loops to the other. Learn how to tie the Double Figure Eight Loop with the help of our animation and steps below.

Step 1: Fold the rope back on itself to make a bight. Step 2: Form a loop, with the working end underneath the standing part. Step 3: Bring the working end on top of the standing part. Step 4: Make a loop in the working end. Step 5: Insert the second loop to the first one. Step 6: Get the working end and pass it around and over the knot.

Step 7: Pull to tighten.

Rock Climbing Knots - Double Alpine Butterfly Knot

If an Alpine Butterfly Knot allows you to make a loop in the middle of the rope if you do not have access to the two ends, a Double Alpine Butterfly enables you to form two loops. Learn how to tie this knot in this section. Use our animation as your guide as you go through the steps.

Step 1: Wrap the rope four times around your hand. Step 2: Bring the first strand (the one nearest to your thumb) over the last strand. Step 3: Grab the two leftmost strands and bring them over the last two strands. Step 4: Bring the two rightmost strands underneath the other two. Step 5: Pull to tighten.

Rock Climbing Knots - Prusik Knot

A Prusik Knot is used in ascending a rope or as backup in abseiling. This knot is also useful in holding onto a vertical rope and hauling up load or another climber. Learn how to tie a Prusik Knot with the help of our animation and easy-to-follow steps.

Step 1: Tie the working end and standing part together to form a loop. For added security, you can tie a Fisherman's or Double Fisherman's Knot to create the loop. Pass the knot around the rope. Step 2: Make a second turn around the rope and then pass the knot through the loop you made in Step 1. Step 3: Pull the knot to tighten.