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-Tilt control, I told you this was an important skill but I am going
to share my thoughts on this. Tilt is always going to be with you
when you play poker its going to be a constant battle no matter
how good you are at controlling yourself. You need to learn what
your personal triggers are because its going to be different for
everyone, for me personally losing a lot of money just doesnt get
me angry but there are things that send me off the wall into
super tilt monkey mode. One thing I learned personally is that
burnout is a very dangerous tilt inducer, I dropped out with a 3k
bankroll and forced myself to work very very hard at first but I
wasnt getting the results I wanted and the money swings hurt
more. When you have a balanced life if you run bad at poker its
not going to hurt as much and on the same token when
something bad happens outside of poker dont expect to continue
playing your same game unaffected.I hope this helps you all and
I also hope this encourages those of you who may have been
hesitatant to start contributing to do so.
- Cwar
HU SNG B IBLE
BB = Big Blind
SB = Small Blind
Effective Stacks = The stack size of the player with the least
amount of chips, or the maximum amount of chips either player
can win if they both are all in.
Implied Odds = The ratio of your total expected win when your
card hits to the present cost of calling a bet (TOP P. 55)
- ChicagoRy
A G UIDE TO THE 25-50 B LIND L EVEL P ART 1:
B ASIC P LAY
This is the first of a four part series on how to play in the 25-50
level of Heads Up Sit N‟ Gos. In the first article you will learn
some of the differences that separate the 25-50 level from the
earlier blind levels.
You will notice many players raising to 150-200 chips during this
level with stack sizes of any amount. We will learn why this is
usually bad and how to exploit it in the third article.
Now that you‟ve got a handle on preflop raise sizes, we can talk
about the difference in preflop hand values. In the 25-50 level a
lot of hands that were valuable to raise in previous levels will go
down in value. Hands like suited connectors (56s, 78s) go down
in value as the stack to blind ratio goes down. These are
speculative hands and the main advantage of these speculative
hands is the implied odds that you have with them. Your implied
odds go down as the blind-stack ratio becomes smaller, meaning
hands that make top pair are going to be going up in value while
lower-card hands that need to make flushes, straights and two
pair hands are going to go down in value.
So does this mean you should fold hands like 67s on the button
when effective stacks are 20-25bb? Not necessarily. You have to
be careful on overplaying them and committing too many chips
to the pot in certain situations. We‟ll get into when you should
minraise, limp and fold this type of hand in the next article.
You‟re also going to want to turn down your two barrel bluffing
percentage. As the pot builds from preflop to the flop and then
the turn, players will feel more pot committed when calling a
street. The more bets they call the more of their stack is in the
pot, therefore they will end up calling with a wider range of
hands. There are still spots to bluff/semi-bluff, but it is generally
harder and less frequent in this level.
Since we‟ve gone over the main facets of preflop and postflop
play, let‟s put it all together and go over a couple of basic hand
examples.
Villain checks, Hero bets 125 chips, Villain raises to 800 and is
all in.
Hero calls 675 chips. Villain flips over 9d7d. Hero‟s pair holds
and he wins the game.
-----------------------------------
Reads: Villain has been pretty loose and aggressive in the early
part of the match. He has seemed to slow down lately but is still
raising often preflop. Hero has been card dead most of the game
and has won very few pots. The pots hero has won have been
medium-large sized pots.
Flop KdTh4s
Here the flop has completely missed us. There are few draws on
the board, a possible straight draw, but no flush draws. Villain
has been raising often preflop so a lot of Kx and some Tx hands
are not in his range. QJ is not likely in his range either. A lead
bet here is good and should take down the pot very often.
Hero bets 70 chips. Villain folds.
The two hands above and the concepts described before them
should give you a good idea of the key differences between the
25-50 play and the earlier levels of the game. The difference in
starting hand values, preflop raises and controlled aggression
are important to becoming a winning 25-50 player.
P ROPER HU SNG PF RANGES
You want to raise as many BTNs as you can get away with
before/unless villain adjusts. So theoretically you can start off by
opening 100% and seeing how villain responds. Some people
will start off at 85-90%, because opening 100% has a certain feel
to it that causes some villains to play back faster ('omg he's
blindly clicking raise every time he has the BTN') than if you
occasionally fold your BTN ('oh he has some standards, even if
they're minimal.')
You may want to start reducing your BTN opens if villain starts 3-
betting a lot and is hyper-aggro in 3-bet pots / doesn't fold easily
to positional pressure and is generally hyper-aggro OOP / will
pay you off lightly but will not go away often enough when you
have air unless you put stacks into play every time. In such
cases, opening super-wide might still be profitable if you're
skilled post-flop, but the match becomes much easier to play if
you reduce your opens to like 60%-75%, especially since most
villains of the type I described won't adjust well. (For example,
there are hugely losing villains whose basic approach is to try to
win every pot, literally, no matter how many chips they risk and
almost no matter what kind of resistance you put up. Opening
super-wide against them can get really tough if you're not
running hot or sick good, because you basically have to show
them a hand or bluff for stacks or fold and bleed off chips every
time you enter a pot.)
Finally, you say OOP you call anything remotely decent and
raise all decent hands to 3 bb. I'm not sure exactly what ranges
you mean here, but I strongly recommend starting out by playing
very tight OOP. You can call min-raises a little wider than 3x
raises, but the key is to play OOP pots much less frequently than
pots in position. Look for hands that flop well, where both cards
can make a decent pair, so K9s > A2o. Also watch how
frequently your opponent raises; you don't want to be calling with
dominated hands against a nitty BTN-raiser (they do show up.)
Your OOP play is of course conditioned but how well or poorly
villain plays post-flop. Some guys will give you free turns when
they miss and check/fold when they don't connect and you fire
turn or river. Others will c-bet 100% but play very weakly against
frequent check-raises. But please, please start off by playing
tightly OOP. And if someone limps into your BB, don't raise their
limp with a wide range until you know exactly what you're doing.
Start off by only raising limps with something like 88+, QJ+, KT+,
AT+, and taking free flops with the rest of your hands.
- Lagdonk
P LAYING W ITH 20BB S OR LESS
At 20 bbs down to which ever stack depth you think pure push-
or-fold* should start (whether it's 10/9/8/7/6 BBs -- villain
dependent, ideally):
OOP: Tighten up your flat-calling range from the BB. Playing fit-
or-fold is way too expensive and unsustainable at this stage. You
want to enter pots OOP armed with significant flopping power
and/or an ability to handle villain when he has position post-flop.
Maybe he has some exploitable traits you've spotted, like only c-
betting if he hits, or c-betting very often but folding non-strong
hands to smallish check-raises, or three barrel spewing too often
when you take a check-call line, such that hitting a pair will net
you his bluffed off stack.
Also, monitor his BTN raising frequency as you get shallow, and
review all of the hands that are +EV 3-bet shoves against
someone who opens too often when stacks are short.
You can also mix in some small 3-bets against against semi-
thinking, nit-at-heart players who aren't very comfortable lagging
it up (in this case, opening more BTNs than they'd like), and are
doing so half-heartedly because they think they should as blinds
go up. (That was a retardedly specific villain profile; small 3-bets
when shallow can work against a number of opponent-types,
especially if you balance them, but this is not my area of
expertise. More of a growth area for me.)
- Lagdonk
T HE A NATOMY OF A C ONTINUATION B ET
MLJ and I got into a discussion about whether to c-bet this flop
or not which sparked my interest in this topic. DISCLAIMER Im
not presenting any of this as fact I am actually trying to improve
my own understanding of the factors that lead to a c-bet
decision, take it as you will.
Now lets assume a tighter villain preflop with the same calling
standards I picked out a reasonable calling range of 25.5% of all
hands which would lead to him calling c-bets with 19.2% of all
hands or approx. 75% of all c-bets. Now each c-bet shows a
profit of -$7.5. So what did I learn from all this? Preflop range
has a huge impact on c-bet success (LDO) but what did surprise
me is that a loose preflop player that plays the same postflop as
a tight preflop player can be c-bet against more aggressively. I
tried this idea on a couple different flop textures and the
impression that I get is that this is probably universally true.
Clearly assuming tight players will call gutshots and and any pair
is a pretty strong assumption (far from reality) so if we use the
same flop as in wha's hand and the same tight player (25.5%
preflop) and assume he plays a much tighter range after your c-
bet to the tune of 14.6% (again came up with a reasonable range
fiddling with pokerstove) of all hands which would mean our c-
bet gets called 57.3% of the time for a total immediate profit of
approx. -$.07. This is great for a couple reasons, it shows that
postflop tightness increases the profitability of c-bets (obviously)
and we found a realistic ratio that is very near the break even
point of the c-bet in this hand.
- Cwar
D EALING W ITH LIMPERS ; DEALING W ITH
CONSTANT MIN - BETTORS
Question: How do you handle players who minbet (1/4 to 1/3 of the pot about) 90% of
the flops?
At the moment i play the 33s on FullTilt and there are lots of these guys. I just cant
stand
them because i really dont know what the best strategy is against them.
Response: This is a very good question. This is something I struggled with early on in
my husng progression and I'm sure many others have or do struggle with as well.
There are a few things I like to keep in mind when dealing with min bettors:
1) We're usually dealing with a very wide range of hands, so we should not try to
narrow their hand range down based on actions that do not warrant it.
2) Our odds of calling a min bet on the flop are much greater than on the turn,
therefore we'll probably be calling a lot more often on the flop and we shouldn't be
worried about folding turns.
3) We want to be careful about getting overzealous about raising them too often in
small pots and folding to the min bet too often in bigger pots.
Keeping those points in mind, here are a few things I like to do against min bettors:
- Figuring out if they will min bet 3 streets with strong hands (top pairs+), good draws
(flush draws, OESDs, weaker pair combo draws), weak draws (low flush draws,
gutshot straights, overcards) and outright "bluffs" (weak hands that need runner
runner to beat most hands that will play a big pot).
If they are not following the same betting pattern with all of these hands, then I want
to try to find out which hands that they are deviating from their min bet strategy with
and what they are doing instead.
- I want to also figure out how they react to a raise. I generally want to raise a
stronger hand first, because most min bettors are going to be too loose and call with
a lot of hands they should not on the flop, at least in the early portion of our match. If
I notice a fold I'll try again, perhaps with an outright bluff or semi bluff, if they fold
again I start to see they are weak and will throw in a good amount of bluff raises
along with semi bluff and strong hands and wait until they adjust.
While I may not always get action on my strong hands, the raises are most likely
going to frustrate the player.
- It might not be too difficult to win when you are hitting cards/boards vs these
players, but what about when you are card dead and the boards just aren't hitting
your starting hands?
In these cases, you really have to pay attention to how you are playing your high
cards, how often you are chasing without the correct odds and other decisions you
make in marginal/close spots.
If a player is going to min bet every street with any hand, it's going to be correct to
call down with a hand like A high. If you notice he is starting to check hands that are
really weak or that have no showdown value, you're going to want to adjust and
starting folding high cards to his bets.
A few things you'll want to avoid are bluffing off a lot of chips because "I haven't bet
big in awhile, he has to respect me here" or "he bets every street, he can't call a few
raises from me."
Be careful on taking raises too far. If you bluff raise his min bet on the flop and he
calls, be weary about following through on the turn. Don't blindly spew chips against
these players, that is how they are going to win because they usually don't get
enough value out of their bigger hands and end up letting you build pots when you
want with stronger hands.
A few other lesser points that I want to make about playing min bettors:
- Don't over or under raise them. For example, if they bet 30 into a 200 pot on the
turn, raising your weak top pair to 400 is going to be an over raise. On the flip side,
raising 3x to 90 is going to probably be an under raise. Often times against constant
min bettors, I almost "ignore" their small bet and just raise them to what I would bet if
they had checked. In this case it would be a 130-160 type turn bet (raise) that I would
make.
- Like I said earlier, be aware of the odds you are being offered compared to their
presumably very wide range of hands. You also want to be aware of the odds you
are offering them. If their drawing hands are 20-25% likely to hit the river, you don't
want to "keep them in the pot" with an under raise that offers them the correct odds to
draw. They will likely make the mistake of calling without odds, so don't be too
worried about pushing them out of the pot with a 4-5x raise. In fact, your raises will
often be over 4x the bet against min bettors.
In conclusion, since this is a player and situations you're probably not dealing with on
a regular basis, you might have to think a little longer/harder when facing the min
bettor. While I gave a lot of general advice, you should find enough above to
effectively combat the min bettor and to get you thinking in the right direction against
almost all of them.
I'd say above all, awareness is key against these players, and the most common
mistake is a lack of discipline and emotional control when dealing with these players.
The same can go for the opposite end of the spectrum, the aggro-maniacs, though it
is not just a simple "take this advice but apply it in the opposite direction." That,
however, is another day and another blog post."
--------------
"Facing A Limp
(Or why you should resist the temptation of raising limps over and over and over
again)
First, the following is a response to another question from Spacko about "when you
should raise limpers." It's a very general question but I notice that even good players
often have a general problem with how they approach this area of the game.
**We'll assume that effective stacks are a relatively deep 40-75bb, unless otherwise
noted.
1. Our hand is better than the range of hands villain will call with.
2. We think villain will fold a tremendous amount of time and we will raise for the fold
equity. You could call this a bluff-raise.
3. We have a great read on villain and have found an exploit in their game (fairly rare
early on). For example, a player that calls almost ATC preflop but is very weak/tight
postflop. You would want to get chips in the pot preflop to steal postflop.
There are no doubt other reasons you can raise a limp, but the most common will be
similar to the 3 above.
We'll start with raising for pure hand value. A common reply to "why did you raise his
limp with that hand (we'll say a hand like QTo)?" is "he'll call with worse hands." That
is probably true, a lot of villains will limp and then call a 3-5x raise with a lot of worse
hands. But unfortunately, many people don't consider other factors of the hand
besides the hand values.
The first factor of the hand that a lot of people ignore is position. You're out of
position, so you're at a disadvantage (the deeper you are the more this is true). This
will weaken your holding/value somewhat.
Another factor is postflop play. How does your opponent play postflop? What is his
calling range? What is his limping range? If you're having trouble answering any of
those questions, raising a medium-strong hand like QTo OOP for around 4x the bb is
probably not going to put you in good spots postflop.
As an example of how crucial it is to know most if not all of these things about your
opponent, I'll point you to a thread in 2+2.
In this thread, Skates (a 220-550 regular) raised Heir Apparent's (a very solid
200/220 regular) limp with what you could call a "medium-strong" hand. He assumed
that Heir would raise any ace preflop, so therefore an ace could not be in his calling
range. Based on that assumption, it would be a pretty easy call based on Heir's line
(call, c/c, c/bet). However, Skates even admitted that he was pretty confused about
the hand/line and it turns out Heir had a weak ace. Throw aces into Heir's range and
it would be a pretty clear fold on this river.
Moving on, the other big reason people will give when raising a limp is "he's only
limping weak hands, he'll probably fold."
While this is fine reasoning, this is generally not worth doing until effective stacks (in
bbs) are pretty small (think like < 30bbs deep). Most players will adjust after you raise
their limps a few times, so you're not going to want to pick up their 20 or 30 chips
once or twice when you have 1500 chips and then have to figure out how they are
adjusting later on. Knowing they are limping weak and/or folding often is going to be
much more valuable when you can pick up 50-100 chips each time or more
appropriately, 5-15% of their stack a pop.
I'll touch on one other point about limp raising before I conclude, and that would be to
think about what it means to face a limp. Are you really worried about a player
limping his button when stacks are deep? You shouldn't be. Most players are losing
value by constantly limping their button when stacks are deep, so why should you
abuse that leak early on and force them to raise more often in position and generally
play more aggressively throughout the game? It is my belief that you should not.
-The blinds are a big % of the effective stacks. 5-15% is probably a good rule of
thumb for when you really want to be paying attention and looking for spot to raise
limps for fold equity.
-You really have a good grasp on this villain and his calling range as well as his
postflop play.
-Your hand is very strong. I would never suggest checking a hand like 99 or AK in the
big blind when a player limps. With a hand like this, your hand is just too strong to not
want to build a pot, position or not, good reads or not.
Building off of that, my default raising range for low-mid stakes husngs would be 55+,
A9s, ATo+, KJs+, KQo+.
That range would change as effective stacks, game flow and reads developed and
changed, but on the first hand of a 22 dollar husng that would be my suggest raising
range facing a limp from a random player.
To conclude, in general I would suggest letting players limp early but especially
paying attention to limp ranges, reactions to aggression and postflop play of villains
so that you can take advantage of poor play as effective big blinds get shallow and
leaks grow tremendously. A good way to gain this information is to mainly only raise
strong hands early on when facing a limp, and to deviate from that strategy as the
conditions above warrant."
-ChicagoRy
C HECK R AISE B LUFFING F LOPS
- What does the opponent's hand range look like going into
the flop? If your opponent is open folding 30% of hands, you
can safely assume that weaker hands such as 42, 52, 62, 72, 82,
73, 83 are not open raising. This will automatically narrow your
opponent's range of hands down before you even see the flop.
- How does that hand range line up with the board? You want
to identify habits above such as "limps K-rag, Q-rag, A-rag
hands" so that you can look at the flop and get a general idea
not only of the types of hands in your opponent's range, but how
well they did (or did not) connect with the flop.
For a lot of you, the above was rather obvious. If it wasn't, you've
already learned something important.
So what are some other common things to look out for when
deciding whether or not to check raise bluff? Here are some
more things to think about that build upon the two basic tips
above:
- Continuation bet range. There are many ways you can take
advantage of opponents that offer severely unbalanced
continuation betting ranges. A common c-bet "leak" would be
opponents that cbet most boards with a range similar to: any
good middle pair or better, any good draw and any air except
high cards with showdown value. In many cases, this represents
a c-bet range that is much too weak, and thus should often be
check raise bluffed frequently.
Another common c-bet "leak" is from players that check back dry
boards with most pairs; the strong pairs they can consider won't
get enough value on the dry board and the weaker pairs are
"only called by better." If an opponent is checking back A92
rainbow boards with any pair, what does that tell you about the
times that they c-bet? How should you react?
- Bet sizing. This one comes up a little less frequently, but is still
valuable. You can dissect bet sizing "leaks" the same way as c-
bet leaks, though it can be a bit more complicated. For example,
many opponents like to bet a little bit smaller with their bluffs on
a drawy heavy/"scary" board; to try to get a cheap fold. Similarly,
many opponents like to bet a bit larger on those same boards, to
maximize value from any potential pairs or draws that rarely fold,
even to larger bets. In that simple example, even though you
might not normally bluff a 50% open raiser that cbets a QJT
board, if they c-bet to a large size for value and like to make
cheap bluffs when they miss, you would be throwing away
money not bluff raising often when they bet small.
Conclusion
At the end of the day, you'll find that even the best players will
have ranges that are not balanced in many areas. Over
thousands of games of experience, great players will realize that
balance in of itself is not the best way to win the most money.
Properly building a strategy that exploits your opponent's
tendencies and frequencies is the best way to win. As such,
great players will often present to you ranges that (at least for a
brief time) can be exploited. Pay attention, good players
constantly adapt their hand ranges based on how their opponent
is responding.
- ChicagoRy
Suppose, further, that both players know that the BB has Ax here always (this isn't
the best hand to demonstrate this, as BB has plenty of busted draws, but whatever,
pretend it's a standard ace high board with no draws and it's gone c/c c/c c/b if you're
hung up on that), and that BTN has 50% Qx+, and 50% air. This is, naturally, an
idealized situation, but we'll get to the practical applications at the end. For now, you
should all know what the Nash Equilibrium of this situation is (Equilibrium isn't just an
endgame thing). Do you? If not, let's calculate it.
For demonstration purposes: Let's assume as the button, we have three choices on
some site with crummy software: Betting t500, betting t1000, or betting t2000 all-in to
the pot of t1000. Let's say we decide to bet t2000, or not at all.
In Nash Equilibrium, after you make your river bet, your opponent should be
indifferent between calling and folding. Hence, as the button, along with betting t2000
for all of our value hands, we want to bet t2000 with the percentage of our air that
makes it so folding and calling have the same EV for our opponent. The math on
that:
Code:
-500 = (2500)x - (2500)(1-x)
-500 = 5000x - 2500
2000 = 5000x
x = 2/5
Thus, at Nash Equilibrium, BTN shoves what makes a BB call correct 2/5 of the time.
So, BTN shoves 100% of her value and shoves 2/3 of her air. This makes BB
indifferent between calling and folding, meaning that 5/6 of the time, BTN has an
expectation of +t500, and 1/6 of the time, BTN concedes the pot for an expectation of
-t500. Hence, EV playing this strategy is +t333.
Let's note what happens if we try to make our bets only in 1000, or only in 500:
If we're betting 1000, again, we should be doing so with 100% of our Qx+, and
some % of our air.
BB should be indifferent between calling and folding in equilibrium.
Code:
-500 = (1500)x - (1500)(1-x)
-500 = 3000x - 1500
1000 = 3000x
x = 1/3
Thus, we want to bet what makes BB call correctly 1/3 of the time. So, we shove
100% of our value hands and 50% of our air. This makes BB indifferent between
calling and folding, meaning that 3/4 of the time, we have an expectation of +t500,
and 1/4 of the time, we concede the pot for an expectation -t500. This means our
expectation playing this strategy is +t250.
Code:
-500 = (1000)x - (1000)(1-x)
-500 = 2000x - 1000
500 = 2000x
x = 1/4
So we bet what makes BB call correctly 1/4 of the time, which means betting 100% of
value and 33.3% of air. 2/3 of the time we have an expectation of +t500, 1/3 of the
time it's -t500. Expectation playing this strategy is +t167. The bigger the bet, the
bigger the EV.
Let's take it to the extreme, though. Say we're really deep-stacked, perhaps at a cash
game with 10k behind and this river decision. This is also applicable in smaller
HUSNG pots. If we make a big overbet shove (crazy, reckless stuff, right?), what's
our EV?
Code:
-500 =(10500)x - (10500)(1-x)
-500 = 21000x - 10500
10000 = 21000x
x = 47.6%
Which means we bet 100% of our value and 90.8% of our air,
giving us an expectation of +453, the best yet.
Two quick points to make, which I won't bother to show the math
on:
1. At equilibrium, overbetting is better than any combination of
small/large bets with different types of hands.
2. Shoving is still a Nash Equilibrium regardless of what
percentages BTN has air and value; it doesn't have to be 50/50.
OK, you get it. But you read 2+2 strat so you can take more
maney. When does this help me take money?
- Mersenneary
R AKE , TOURNAMENT EQUITY AND HOURLY
RATE
On the first hand of a heads up sit and go, your opponent moves
all-in. You estimate your hand to have 50% equity against this
player's range. Should the fact that this would result in an
expected loss for the tournament after the rake is accounted for
nudge you into folding?
No, it shouldn't. The rake (and indeed the buyin) is a sunk cost.
Sunk costs should not be factored into rational decision making.
There is a prize pool and that's all you're interested in. All either
things being equal you should want the highest probability of
winning it. If that happens to be 50%, you should take it.
But wait, you surely couldn't apply this overall? If your long run
winrate was 50% you'd eventually go bust due to the rake. So
what's the difference? The rake in future SNGs are not sunk
costs. Since they have yet to be incurred, you can account for
them in your decision making.
Currently, you are being offered $200 to end the SNG right now.
Therefore, you must expect to win at least $215 by playing the
game out. This equates to a 53.75% winrate. At anything less,
you should chop. Interestingly enough, this winrate is large
enough to beat the rake. Even someone +EV to play against
after the rake can be still be so far from being the most +EV that
it's worth taking even money to free yourself up to play someone
else. In fact, the rake in this example wasn't important. It was
your hourly rate, which all the rake did was presumably to reduce
it. Rake here isn't distinguishable from any other characteristics
that might serve to change your hourly rate.
The fact that games are not chopped show that at least one
player overestimates his/her edge and/or they are not playing for
direct monetary reasons (which are outside the scope of this
post)).
Suppose the pot is 200 chips, you have 900 chips, your
opponent has 1900 chips and has just moved all-in. How much
equity does your hand need to have against his or her range in
order to justify calling?
You're looking for what has the highest expected value over
time. To calculate this you need to determine the probability of
winning the SNG under each distribution of chips that could arise
minus the loss of EV that occurs from the time it would take to
play out the rest of the tournament.
((0.67*400)-(60*(10/60)))*PrW + 0 = (0.30*400)-(60*(9/60))
PrW = 0.43246
This is less than the 0.45 equity you would need in a standard
chip equity calculation. Despite the fact that you're not playing
against a player who has an edge against you, it's still worth
getting the money in somewhat lighter.
You could plug numbers into the above equations, altering them
as you wish to describe different scenarios (like the equity of
betting yourself and getting called) and get the right answers.
However, it may be somewhat difficult to estimate your win
percentage at given stack sizes and the expected time to finish a
SNG. One way to do so is empirically - if you have a large
enough database of SNGs, you could go through all of them and
find out your win percentage/time taken at each stack size
against opponents of various skill levels. This is probably
unrealistic, however.
E = C^N
0.55 = C^1.
C = 0.55.
Note that N for 40% of the chips is not 2.5. To work out N, take a
log to the base 2 of the number of times you will need to multiply
your stack to win.
N = log2 2.5
= 1.321928
Plug these values into the equation to solve for your equity:
E = 0.55^1.321928
E = 0.45371.
So this model projects that with 40% of the chips, you will win
45.371% of the time against someone that you would beat 55%
of the time with 50% of the chips. Note that both proportionally
and absolutely this is a higher return. However, it is not so simple
to infer that this means you should be willing to take slightly the
worst of it in order to get to this spot. This does not take account
the effect on time. When you win a SNG from 40% of the chips, it
should on average take longer than winning one from 50% of the
chips – there is more ground to make up. If you are the big stack,
the gap in equity will not be so large that as a short stack, but the
average game length will be smaller as you are more likely to
eliminate your opponent than vice versa. I am not sure exactly
how to quantify this in a model: if someone else wants to
propose one, I‟m open to it.
The problem with this model is that it assumes a constant
probability of a double up. This is almost certainly not the case.
At low stack sizes, the blinds are larger relative to the effective
stacks, so it‟s more likely that your chip equity will be closer to
your tournament equity at some levels. However, tournaments
go faster whenever blinds are relatively higher. This is the major
reason for playing turbos and indeed HUSNGs in general
(compared to cash). Both of these factors will need to be
accounted for.
- All other things being equal, against players that you have a
positive overall winrate against, you should pass up slightly +EV
spots in order to avoid stack sizes from becoming too unequal.
Conversely, against players that you are an underdog to, you
should be more willing to get into spots with shorter stacks all
other things being equal.
You can see the effect of this by plugging small and large
numbers in the equation above. With 10% of the chips, your
equity is 13.72%, with 90% it is 91.31%. These numbers are not
so useful because they include the higher equity that occurs after
double-ups have occurred and stacks become larger. It is
perhaps better understood intuitively: it is bad to play with
effectively small stack because your potential upside is limited to
the size of the short stack. Now, a small stack can be
accompanied by factors that you might find desirable (such as
higher blinds relative to the stacks, which you may find to
increase your hourly rate), but that can be modeled separately.
Controlling for the blind/stack ratio shows it clearly: you would
rather have 1500 chip stacks and 75/150 blinds for someone you
have an edge against than a 50% chance of 2700/300 or
300/2700 stacks and 15/30 blinds.
- Nichlemn
C RITICAL P OINTS OF V ILLAIN ' S 3-B ETTING
B EHAVIOR
These are the critical effective stack depths at which your villain makes
dramatic adjustments to their preflop ranges when facing a minraise. A good,
balanced player should not have these, but most do. Before explaining why, I
should define them. There are two:
1) Skates Calling Point (SCP) - This is the effective stack depth at which your
villain switches from an all-in or fold strategy to one that incorporates calling.
When facing a minraise at 2BB, your villain can only go all-in or fold. At 5BB,
nearly all villains will either go all-in or fold. At 10BB, some will mix in calling
with some hands. The effective stack depth where the calling frequency
becomes significant is the SCP.
2) Skates 3-Betting Point (S3BP) - This is the effective stack depth at which
your villain switches their 3-bet sizing from always being all-in (or committing)
to having a significant fraction of their 3-bets being non-committing. At 15BB, if
a villain 3-bets when facing a minraise, they will almost certainly go all-in with
the majority of their range. At 22BB, some villains will keep going all-in, but
others might switch to smaller 3-bets. The effective stack depth where the
frequency of the non-committing 3-bet size becomes significant is the S3BP.
When I say "majority" and "significant", I am referring to a range that does not
incorporate AA and KK. Many players play in unbalanced ways with those two
hands, and in this case, we would like to remove them from consideration.
Some people, when you minraise at 10BB, will flat or min-3-bet with AA or KK
and only those hands. This is not what we are looking to isolate.
When talking about SCPs and S3BPs, it might be helpful to refer to them as
"hard" and "soft". A "hard" SCP is what most players have. If Mr.
StandardVillain has been reading 2+2 for the past year, he might have learned
that when facing a minraise at less than 20BB, he should either go all-in or
fold. At 20BB though, he should start to call with most hands because he does
not want to risk more than 19BB to pick up 2BB. This means that
StandardVillain has a hard-SCP of 20. This is a very common behavior among
weaker players and mediocre regs at this point in time. Historically, I think this
is because the average hero often had a very wide open % (say, 80%), and a
very tight call % (say, 12%). Playing the way the StandardVillain played was
incredibly profitable. Now, the average hero at higher stakes might still open
very wide, but has often adjusted to having a wider calling range, neglecting
the primary source of equity won by StandardVillain. As such, many of the
stronger players today do not have SCPs at 20, but rather closer to 15. If
instead of having a hard-SCP, StandardVillain were to start gradually
incorporating hands into a calling range at 18BB, he would have a soft-SCP at
18. Very strong players have soft-SCPs that are very hard to define because
they adopt mixed-strategies (they do not always play a given hand the same
way).
S3BPs are almost always extremely hard (non-gradual), and are usually in the
range of 22-25BB. Sure, StandardVillain might always jam 33 if hero limps into
him, but the rest of StandardVillain's 3-bet range is likely to have a 3-bet size
between the range of 4BB to 6BB. Most people have a fixed 3-bet size that
they switch to when the first incorporate non-committing 3-bets. I can not think
of one villain I have come across who does not. Of course, we ignore behavior
with AA and KK.
Now that we've defined these... can you think of any forum members or
coaches that have well-defined SCPs or S3BPs? Are they hard or soft? How
many of them that have easily recognized hard-SCPs play high-stakes? The
answer is probably close to zero, and here's why:
If I can notch you into a box, I can read your frequencies and exploit you.
Over the course of a match or series of matches, a good hero attempts to best
understand the frequencies with which their villain takes each possible action
on each street, then utilizes that information to make estimations of villain's
range on each street, then utilizes that information to come up with a
maximally exploitive strategy to combat those ranges. Although I would be
happier putting a lot of caveats and footnotes in there, that is some very
rudimentary poker theory. As a consequence, anything that allows the hero to
get a better estimation of those frequencies enables the hero to make more
precise adjustments to better exploit their villain.
Hello again!
If you play within a well-constructed set of rules, or box, your easily observed
frequencies no longer tell a part of the story; they tell the whole story. If after
one game with you, I observe what I think to be a hard-SCP at 20, I am
immediately estimating a 3-bet frequency I think you have at each depth below
that. If I've played many games with you, I can just look at my database and
pull the information directly. Then, what do you think my adjustments look like?
Fix a stack depth and consider a range of villain 3-bet frequencies. Take a
moment to try to come up with my opening range with respect to those
frequencies on your own.
So what is the result? I have a raise/fold range if and only if I think your 3-bet
frequency is less than 50%.
***** ***** ***** ***** *****
Now... here is where things really get interesting, despite the simplicity of the
topic. Notice that my adjustment is not continuous; I don't gradually add hands
into my opening range. Since you are playing within this box that you have
defined for yourself, my adjustments are effectively in the binary. I either raise
everything, or I raise my calling range, and which strategy I adopt is
dependent solely on your 3-bet frequency. (Of course, the size of my raise-
calling range will vary based on your 3-bet frequency and the effective stack
depth).
If I think you 3-bet all-in with 50% of all hands at 15BB, then my raising
frequency at 16BB is likely to be 100%, but my raising frequency at 14BB
might be something like 40% (and raise-calling my J9s ). If someone were to
isolate my hands from 14-16BB, they might see my raising range at something
like 70%. Do you see why their adjustments might be mistaken or flawed? Do
you see where I might be able to pick up an edge from this? Do you see how
difficult it is for someone with a hard-SCP to compete with me?
So what about S3BPs? These are much more interesting because this part of
the game is not wel-evolved. At this time, most strong high-stakes HUSNG
players have soft-SCPs that are extremely hard to discover. On the other
hand, hard-S3BPs are still found in virtually everyone; I'm currently thinking of
only a few exceptions. When thinking about a hard-S3BP and the adjustments
you can make relating to it, consider how a villain views your calling frequency
and 4-bet frequency when facing a non-committing 3-bet. When they 3-bet
non-committing, are they polarized? Are they merged? What does their 3-bet
frequency look like below the S3BP (when they are only going all-in). Does it
increase or decrease on the other side of the S3BP? What does that say
about their calling range around the S3BP? What does that mean your
opening range should look like? What kind of tricks can you pull? I'm not going
to spoon-feed this one to you... figure it out .
-Skates
F INISHING AN OPPONENT HEADS - UP : SAGE ,
NASH AND CHUBUKOV .
Stuff in advance:
If you have t2700 and villain t300 and blinds are 15/30, you are
indeed the chipleader but this shouldn't adjust your play AT ALL.
You're still only 10bb's and should treat it like you both have t300
in chips. Obviously if you make an ev- shove or call here you're
going to lose less $$$ in ev than if stacks would be t2000 and
t1000 and blinds 50/100 but you're still 10bb's deep and ev-
decisions stay ev-! Don't think about "I can gamble, if he doubles
up, I'm still big chipleader!" make sure your moves are ev+.
Maybe I've been a bit to harsh about "it shouldn't affect your
play" because sometimes it can. However, this will not be
because of your play, but because of villain's play. Some people
will shove ATC when they have the chiplead with the 2.7k in
chips because they indeed want to finish you quickly, so your
callingrange should get wider by a decent percentage. Also if
you just won a big pot from villain one way or another this will
affect metagame and he may be tilted so you should try and add
these into the equation when you calculate ranges and odds and
stuff. Just keep in mind that in the end you should only look at
the amount of bb's you have.
Even if you play a big mtt, there won't come any ICM into play.
Suppose first prize is €2k and second prize is €1k, then you
already have won the €1k and can just look at the end-game as
being a €500 hu sng. Doesn't matter how big the difference
between first and second place is really.
Sage:
Most people have probably heard about this already, you can
find a lot of links about it if you google for a bit. Here's an
example.
Sage works with a chart and a power-index which is really easy
to memorize. You just have to know how shallow effective stacks
are and calculate the power index for your hand and see
whether you push or fold. Power index is easy to calculate, just
take the value of your highest card (ace is 15, not 14, face cards
are 11,12,13 obv) and double it; add the value of the other card
to it and if it's suited add an additional 2. If you have a pocket
pair you add 22 to the number. Then you look in the chart and
see if you can push/fold from your button and if you can call if
villain openshoves.
Note that this becomes slightly ev- for the sb to push starting
from 7bb's. Small negative ev, but still ev-. So you should only
adapt this when really shallow imo.
Also note that this is far from optimal play. If you think villain
shoves tight your calling range should be a little tighter but you
can shove wider. Basically (since it only works for 6bb's or
shallower) this is just a crapshoot and it's almost a "push any two
cards" and hope villain folds. 6bb's is really nothing, and you
barely need fold equity preflop to make shoving ATC ev+
because there's already 1.5bb's in the pot. Some higher stakes
winning players actually DO shove ATC in these spots because
villain will often have a way too tight callingrange.
Nash equilibrum:
problem is you just see a chart there and while the chart itself is
still pretty easy to figure out, you still need some info to go with it
to know what you're doing. Why are we shoving 54s for 20+bb's
for example, but not J8o?
Let's just say we're playing headsup, we're 100bb's deep and I'm
on the button. You know 100% sure I only openshove AA on the
button. If I openshove what's your callingrange? Obv only the
other two aces. When I openshove KK+ what's your
callingrange? Still, only AA. When I openshove QQ+ your
callingrange is KK+ (although KK only has 49.995% equity vs
QQ+ it's still an ev+ call due to the sb + bb in the pot).
Okay that's for strong hands, now let's look at a range of
{AA,54s}. What's your callingrange now? You call with KK?
Appearantly calling with KK will lose you money in the long run.
A lot of people think that in the nash pushing chart shoving a
hand like 54s is 20bb's+ and 54o for 2.1bb's is because 54s has
more equity because of the possibility to hit a flush. This
BARELY has anything to do with it. In the small example I gave
here the only reason why KK is not an ev+ call is because
there's 6 combo's of AA and only 4 combo's of 54s. There's 12
combo's of 54o, so...
So they started like this and in the end they came up with an
entire chart of all hands you can openshove which is
unexploitable for 20bb's or shallower. There's a decent amount
of hands which say 20bb's+ but the maker of the chart just
assumed that you shouldn't play push/fold deeper. Openshoving
A2o for 200bb's would be very likely ev- if villain has a different
callingrange than the "nash equilibrum" calling chart.
One last thing is that you have to take the bb and sb posted with
the effective stacks in the chart (so looking for push/fold
BEFORE blinds are posted actually).
Chubukov:
Okay, let's just say you're in a spot now with K3s, there's an
aggro push/fold dynamic already and you are on the button with
12bb's effective stacks. Nash says this is a push, but let's just
face it, you're probably not gonna openshove QQ+ vs this
aggrotard who has attacked all your limps preflop already and
will just limp in most of the time. Can you still openshove the
K3s? Look at Chubukov imo.
What is this? This is a chart which says how deep you can be
EXPRESSED IN SMALL BLINDS to openshove a hand and be
still ev0 at worst when villain has a perfect callingrange due to
flipping over your cards (the amount of small blinds is shown in
the right column, so just cut in half for bb's obv). Obv AA you can
shove for infinite bb's as you chop in worst case. KK will only get
called by KK+ so that's a tiny fraction of a random hand and you
still have equity when called (like you always do). So you look up
K3s and see that you can openshove it for 14.2bb's! That's a
whole lot, even though nash gives us almost 20bb's, we can still
openshove a ton here without openshoving the top of our range.
Basically his callingrange will be any pocket pair, any Ax and
K3s+/K4o+ hands.
What are the important things to remember from this chart? The
fact you can openshove K2o for 10bb's preflop imo. So shoving
a pocket pair, Ax or Kx hand for 10bb's or less is always gonna
be ev0 at worst, irregardless of villain's callingrange. Again, don't
overdo this, even with aggro dynamics there's a lot of play left
from 12-20bb's and you can limp/openshove/minraise/fold
instead of just openshoving. Given, this will take some time to
master because it depends a lot on villain and gameflow but if
you get some experience in it it shouldn't be THAT hard to
quickly see how villain plays and adapt to it.
Cliffnotes:
1) Sage is a bit outdated. Just use nash for 6bb's or shallower
because you will probably openshove QQ+ anyway with these
stacksizes.
2) Use nash only if you use it correctly, and preferably 12bb's or
shallower.
3) Use Chubukov if you dislike minraise/calling a shove, or
limp/folding, or folding in general, but openshoving is
appearantly ev+, also don't use it over - say - 14bb's imo.
Openshoving 33 or K3s for 13bb's is something I do from time to
time, against certain opponents it's going to be the easiest way
to play these hands.
4) When your opponent openshoves his button for x bb's, don't
use any chart, but estimate a shovingrange and see if you have
odds to call with the dead money in the pot.
- Spamz
T HREE BET SHOVING W IT H 25BB EFFECTIVE
1) 2 2
2) A 2
3) J T
4) 7 5
5) 3 2 (for ****s and giggles)
So the 15.6% of the time you are called, you're obviously a dog.
Here's the loss in cEV for each scenario (equals 15.6%*1250
chips lost * (%lose -%win)):
1) 2 2 -45.57
2) A 2 -72.33
3) J T -50.99
4) 7 5 -67.82
5) 3 2 -94.30 (!)
Of course, you can't just keep shoving over this raise, because a
smart villain is going to adjust, and a dumb villain is going to get
pissed off that you're shoving so much and call lighter anyways.
Everything but that 32o is still +EV here. The most surprising find
is that A2o fares worse than the low suited connecter here, and
that JTs isn't too far off the pair in equity. This is because A2o is
crushed by all your opponent's range but the Kx hands, while
JTs is still doing OK against the weak aces and low pairs.
Moving on...
Yikes, now only the pocket pair is profitable against this range.
Let's add a stronger but not amazing Ax hand to this mix:
You can now 3-bet shove A8 and 55 type hands for VALUE
here, never mind the small chance you have of a fold! The
difference between A8 and A2 and 55 and 22 is HUGE if villain is
calling you mega-wide! One more example:
Scenario 5: Villain is tight from the button. He's only raising 25%,
and calling the same range as the villain in scenario 1.
The equity calcs are the same, but your fold EV drops a lot:
Against this villain it is wrong to 3-bet shove A2, but not JTs.
Hmmmmmm. Your edge against this opponent comes from him
playing mega-passive on the button, of course.
- Insane Steve
P OKER S UCCESS
Part I: Introduction
We all aim for success in just about every area of our lives.
When we are successful, whether it be with friendships, our
careers, our physical health, or our sex lives, our overall sense of
well being increases. Whether you play poker recreationally or
for a living, undoubtedly most of you are trying to achieve a high
level of success at the game.
I will now go into detail about each of the pillars, and discuss
how they have related to me personally in my poker career.
1. Natural Talent
Natural Talent refers not only to your born natural qualities, but
also to your upbringing, the types of activities you were exposed
to, and your interest in, and propensity for, learning poker.
From a very young age, it was clear that I had a talent with
numbers. I remember walking home from school at the age of
five and doing two digit by two digit multiplication in my head.
This was when the rest of my class was learning, and trying to
memorize, that 6 + 3 = 9. This fascination with numbers remains,
and to this day I often assess and analyze daily events or
situations in a numerical fashion.
Nonetheless, you can see that I rated Natural Talent the least
important of the four pillars. I believe that Natural Talent on its
own is not nearly enough, and that it is merely a seed of potential
that requires the other pillars to grow into anything worthwhile.
2. Work Ethic
Work ethic refers to the amount of effort you put into playing,
studying, and learning the game of poker. People with a high
level of work ethic often study the game away from the tables,
talk poker with their peers, and devote a significant portion of
time to the game.
In many aspects of life, work ethic has been a problem for me.
My grades slipped from middle school to high school, and then
even moreso, from high school to college. I simply wasn't
inspired by the material, and couldn't be bothered to work hard
just for the sake of getting good grades.
I've had other goals in life (gaining weight for instance) that I
haven't achieved to the extent I wished simply because I didn't
put in the required work. Ever since our childood, we're taught
that if we work hard, we can accomplish our goals, but the truth
is that if you don't find the work at least satisfying and enjoyable
to an extent, it can be incredibly difficult to self-motivate.
Overall, I have a love and passion for poker, a strong drive to put
in hours and further my understanding of the game, and these
qualities give me strong mark in this category.
Self-grade: B+/A-
3. Professionalism
This pillar is perhaps the broadest of the four, and refers to all
the concepts that go into how you manage yourself as a poker
player both at and away from the poker table. Related concepts
include discipline, self control & playing conditions, money
management and spending habits, your setup, and your extra-
curricular gambling
The most important pillar, and also the one that I've continually
failed at. My pitfalls have been numerous, and while it is
somewhat painful to even put them to words, if I ever expect to
improve in this category, it's mandatory to be honest with these
shortcomings and work hard towards improvement.
Setup: It wasn't until the past month that I truly realized how
important a good setup is. My best month ever in online poker
was August, 2008, when I was living in my hometown of Halifax.
I had a very comfortable chair, two monitors and a clean desk. I
made $40,000 mostly playing 1/2 NL HU. I had a 48 buy-in day
at 100 and 200nl. I kid you not.
Up until last month, my setup has been abysmal for the past
year. In Amsterdam I had a desktop computer and two monitors,
but was working on awful and inconsistent internet, and in an
uncomfortable chair. After that, I was playing out of a laptop,
often laying in hotel beds, or friends couches, and using
inconsistent internet.
One of the problems with gambling for a living is that you are
constantly exposed to other forms of gambling, most of which
are at best OEV, and usually -EV. For me personally, there is no
question that I have a gambling addiction. The obvious awkward
irony is that if I were to rid myself of this addiction entirely, I
wouldn't be able to gamble for a living.
Right now, I'm effectively self-banned from all table games for
the next two months ($500 bounty if anyone catches me, and I'll
make it a $2k bounty if I break it once). I'm still allowed to prop
bet and sports bet, though I'm trying to limit this to an extent too.
Self grade: D
While I've played a lot of poker (probably too much poker) in the
past few years, I've also done quite a bit of travelling, and have
quite a few activities outside of poker that I partake in.
I'm lucky to have quite a few good friends spread out over North
America (and in a few cases, internationally). This is great
because I love travelling, so it's fun having the flexibility as a
poker player to travel and see them. In the past year, I've spent
at least three weeks in each of the following locations:
Amsterdam, Sydney, Melbourne, NYC, Boston, LA, Halifax. I've
also spent smaller amounts of time in Italy, Paris, London, San
Fransisco, and Lake Tahoe. I'm also planning a trip to Southeast
Asia and Australia with a friend of mine in November.
- Rumnchess
BR M ANAGEMENT AND Y OU
dboy:*Hey Jimmy, what are you up to?*
Little Jimmy:*Playing HU sngs LDO.*
d:*Whoa there Jimmy, thats a $33+$1.50*
lj:*Yeah I know can beat this level!*
d:*That's great Jimmy, but you're BR is only $53.72*
lj:*Omg hacker. Well what level should I play?*
d:*Let's take a look at some options.*
Option #1
BR:$30 - $99
Play $2s
BR:$100 - $199
Play $5s
BR:$200 - $399
Play $10s
BR:$400 - $599
Play $20s
BR:$600 - $999
Play $30s
BR:$1000 - $2499
Play $50s
BR:$2500+
Play $100s
Option #2
BR:$20 - $49
Play $2s
BR:$50 - $99
Play $5s
BR:$100 - $199
Play $10s
BR:$200 - $299
Play $20s
BR:$300 - $499
Play $30s
BR:$500 - $999
Play $50s
BR:$1000+
Play $100s
Option #3
Best Option if
You are comfortable playing and adjusting to any stakes and
player.
You are or have good reason to believe you are a solid winner.
(Think 63%+ winrate here)
You have very minimal tilt issues.
You want to take on a bit more risk and build a roll quickly.
You are ok with having to redeposit if you bust early on.
BR:$10 - $24
Play $2s
BR:$25 - $49
Play $5s
BR:$50 - $99
Play $10s
BR:$100 - $149
Play $20s
BR:$150 - $249
Play $30s
BR:$250 - $499
Play $50s
BR:$500+
Play $100s
- Dboy23
S UCCESS , F AILURE , AND THE D OW NSW ING
M INDSET
In my last few and most successful years as a poker player I‟ve come to notice that
my outlook on the game contrasts that of many others. I‟ve struggled over the past
few weeks to put into words where my thinking differs and what I believe is the
reason for my calm disposition. The tangents I indulge support my explanation, as
well as cover my thoughts on success and failure. As I don‟t have the humility to
prevent me from voicing my opinion on this subject, I feel obliged to do so.
Being a perfectionist, it is ironic that I should first start by excusing the imperfection of
my post. However, writing is similar to poker in that perfection is impossible, much to
my dismay in both cases.
I‟ll quote John Steinbeck:
Quote:
Very few people ever mature... But sometimes... awareness takes place- not very
often and always unexplainable. There are no words for it because there is no one
ever to tell. This is a secret not kept a secret, but locked in wordlessness. The craft or
art of writing is the clumsy attempt to find symbols for the wordlessness.
This is something you need to understand for yourself in order to appreciate the
mindset I take when approaching the game and the variance that comes with it.
Downswings are especially difficult to recover from because there are multiple forces
working against you. Most visibly, you‟re stuck and need to win to recover what
you‟ve lost. The simple financial loss is only the beginning, though. Secondly, you‟re
frustrated and stressed. (Especially when you‟re playing for a living where winning is
a necessity) Thirdly, you‟ve lost confidence in your abilities- the second worst part of
the nightmare. And lastly, feeling sorry for yourself is the final nail in the coffin. Like
using multiple drugs simultaneously, the effects are multiplied and can be
catastrophic. In the midst of such a trying time, “it will all even out in the long run” is
hardly reassuring.
After reading both Irieguy‟s "The Difference Between Success and Failure"
Irieguy touches on some important yet under appreciated subjects. Among reminding
us that complaining is bad and musing that emotional stamina varies from person to
person, he leaves us this little gem of brilliance.
Quote:
Everybody will eventually run worse than they thought was possible. The
difference between a winner and a loser is that the latter thinks they do not
deserve it.
This could be one of the most important statements ever posted on 2+2, measuring
by how much it can help most players. (I‟ve only been reading since late ‟03, but this
is certainly up there with the most helpful of what I‟ve read). Feeling sorry for yourself
is the single worst thing that can happen as a result of a downswing. I see it on the
forums every day- it consumes players. Posting downswing graphs for sympathy,
comparing who runs worse, all in a desperate attempt to prove your own abilities to
yourself because of the doubt your recent misfortunes has instilled in you.
Quote:
This statement is truer than anyone can know(even though I think most of you do
know, it just seems impossible for me to believe that someone else can understand).
What he says about winners and losers though, will keep you from attaining a more
complete game. There are no winners or losers, to think that, is to let yourself be
affected by negative variance. If you are not in the positive for the day, then you
therefore must be a loser, and so the downward spiral begins. All of those negative
ideas must be eliminated from your mind, or you will not perform to your potential.
The trick is recognizing these negative ideas, since there are so many and so
commonplace in our society, it is a large task indeed to sort them out as real, or just
ideas created by the masses. Our labels for winners and losers simply identify
individuals who play the same game a different way. Just because one person
doesn't achieve the same goal that I strive for, doesn't make that person a "loser."
Everyone is the same, and everyone has the same potential, some just direct their
energies in different directions. The sooner you can get that into your head and really
believe it, the sooner you will start to have a real understanding of the game.
Now here‟s where Gigabet and I differ in our opinions of
approaching variance. He believes that by eliminating “winners”
and “losers” from the equation, we become content with our own
set goals and abilities, despite others‟ more impressive results.
However, everyone is not the same, and everyone has a
different potential as a player. On a very basic level, before
becoming a winner, one must figure out what is preventing
success. Eliminating successful people from the equation is not
a good place to start.
For example.
- Scansion
Y OU SUCK AT POKER
I have been thinking about what to write for a pooh-bah post for
sometime. I don't think many of you know who I am, outside of
this forum. I will start by saying I do not have a lot of new content
as far as strategy goes. This is very TLDR, and it's probably full
of grammar mistakes, or something... but I tried to make it easy
to read.
I've been around the forum for a long time now, and started
playing poker before the UIEGA. I've played many different
games in my goal to become great at poker, and it never really
took off for me. I make consistent money now, but I don't play
the super high stakes games, and I don't really think I am the
best poster when it comes to strategy.
However, I haven't had a formal job for many months now, and
have no intentions of getting one anytime soon. So, I still feel
obligated to give something back, or better yet, pay it forward.
Looking back on the years I have spent on this game, and the
numerous ups and downs in a poker career that has been less
than stellar up to this point makes me wonder what kept me
going. One of the hardest things I have ever done in my life
was being a mediocre poker player. When you are marginally
above break even, you still take the same swings that everyone
else does, but you also don't really make any serious money
doing it. You get to a point where you should realize you aren't
very good, but your ego won't let you. So you end up being
gratified and tortured by your results.
One month you win 10K and you think "finally this game makes
sense", then midway through the next month you get hit by
negative variance in the cards and your play. Of course, at the
time you won't admit that your play has everything to do with
your results. And one night, you tilt off 40 buyins because you
can't accept losing. Your ego just won't let you.
Yeah, that's right 40 buyins over one 20hr session. I mean, no
breaks, no food, not missing a single hand. It's not the first time
either... or the last. You read numerous posts that if you lose that
much in one session, you should quit, or you are horrible at
poker if you take those kinds of downswings, but you can't quit.
You think you have a borderline gambling problem, but you still
made some money. And you are doing something that society
generally feels as being pretty stupid, so you better ****ing
succeed.
If you are tilting, or otherwise not playing your A game, that is all
part of who you are as a poker player. It took me a long time to
learn this. Every time you sit down at the table, you are
demonstrating who you are as a poker player(even sometimes
when you are away from the table). If you play amazingly well,
then once a month you go on tilt and you take your entire roll
and put it in a high stakes game, you have a major leak and that
means you aren't an amazing player, despite playing amazing
for most of the month.
Most players don't have leaks this severe, but I hope you get my
point. You can't pick and choose how good you are based only
on when you are playing well. You need to look at all your play
and all your skills.
Even if you are only playing when you are feeling good; you are
missing out on money and good games, and you aren't giving
yourself a chance to improve your B and C game. And trust me,
if you need to play one day and aren't feeling tip-top, you will
really wish you spent some time working on those aspects of
your game.
This is the first time in your life that you are facing something that
you really have to work at to succeed intellectually. And don't kid
yourself... YES! You need to work! ALL THE TIME! Trust me, it's
sooo much easier that way.
I know you are reading this, and you think it is for someone else.
But it's not.... believe it or not, I am talking to you. I am you! I
was where you are right now years ago. Sure, you have had
some success at this game, but what if you could do more? I
know you've thought about it...but do you really know how to get
there? Do you even know the things you need to improve? Do
you really know why you lose? Do you know your biggest leaks?
Do you have a plan to fix them? Is it working? Do you tilt? Do
you know why?
I do...
You know this game rewards skill over the long run. But when
you are losing, you complain, you grind and you try to win it back
in one shot when you KNOW you aren't playing your best...
Essentially, you try to get lucky. You don't realize that losing is
the BEST thing for your game!
If this game was easy, and you won all the time from the start,
how much effort would you put into improving? If you make a big
call, suckout, or sniff out a bluff and got lucky you probably won't
think twice about it. It would be like school, and you would just
coast through. But if you lose and lose and lose, you can start
asking questions.
You.
- Hince
MJW 006 SPEW S RANDOM THOUGHT S ...
Now that you‟ve opened this thread, let me warn you... Unlike
some of the smart individuals around this forum, I‟m unable to
deliver a long-winded, well thought out, and constructed article
on something strategy specific in this pooh-bah post. So if that is
what you‟re looking for, then hit the back button and slowly slink
out
People tend to think of variance in one way only, and I think that
is an ignorant approach. People say “eh i‟m running so f******
bad right now. Stupid variance” (and this is the only type of
variance). In reality every time we sit down and play we are
experiencing variance, whether it be good, bad, or ugly.
The first side of variance is the one we most often consider and
that is how we are running in all-ins. Are we getting sucked out
on? Are we holding? Etc etc...
I hear you thinking, „yeah I‟m no idiot, I know all of this!‟... Well
have you ever considered the fact that it‟s likely that all of these
factors are working at the same time? Every time we sit down for
a match we are experiencing all of these factors, which leads me
to my real point. Don‟t think that just because you‟re a ton below
EV that it is your true expectation. It‟s easy to review your game
and say well I got 3-outered 6 times in 10 matches so obviously
i‟m just running bad. Ask yourself also, “was I running good
situationally?”, “were all of the coolers and setups in my favour to
begin with?”. When trying to examine the variance that we are
being affected by we must consider more than just the factors
that are blatantly obvious, and instead try to understand
everything that was out of our control to best critically examine
what we can control.
#6 Opinion...
- Mjw006
SPAMZ ' FIRST HAND HISTORY R EVIEW
Quote:
Hand #1
Poker Stars $11.00+$0.50 No Limit Hold'em Tournament - t10/t20 Blinds - 2 players -
View hand 289439
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Hand #2
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View hand 289440
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Hand #3
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View hand 289441
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Ok, so you limped and he raised to 3bb's, what do we do here? I think calling preflop
isn't the best way to play here, I think it's important you fold here for future purposes.
Let's just start with pointing out that vs a really aggro opponent limp/calling here can
defenitly be a good play (someone who 3bets a ton and raises most limps) because
we have a semi-decent hand which can still flop something decent + we have
position. However, in this spot, we have absolutely no idea what type of opponent
we're dealing with here. Given the fact that he folded two previous hands, I don't think
he's the type of guy to "bully" and start raising almost any two cards here tbh; this
could be the case, some opponents just look at the limp and see "oh, he's weak, let's
raise him off his hand!" but when he folded first two hands (one on the button) I think
that you're looking at a more tightish range.
Another thing why I wouldn't call preflop is for the fact I want to test and limp some
more hands in before blinds go up and see what he does. Let's just say you fold
here, you limp again in 8 hands, will he blindly raise again because we folded here or
not? If yes, you can safely fold again (only invested t10 again) and use this to
limp/shove a ton of hands in later stages of the game. If he checks, you can easily
limp a bunch of (even) trashy hands till blinds get really high. Vs people who are
passive vs limps you can probably limp/fold as low as 7bb's shallow imo, though you
have to know that they let you do this and for that, it's important to notice this early
on.
As far as postflop goes (if you do indeed decide to limp/call), I think you played it fine.
I don't think he's folding any pocket pair or broadway cards on a low paired flop like
that, and I wouldn't try to bluff early on in general. On turn there's a decent chance
we're drawing dead so easy fold. If he checks turn again and you pick up an
openender I would bet though, because he will have A-high or two mere overs a lot
on a coordinated board and getting better hands to fold is pretty valuable at that
point.
Quote:
Hand #4
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View hand 289442
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Hand #5
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View hand 289443
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Hand #6
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View hand 289444
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Hand #7
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View hand 289445
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Hand #8
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View hand 289446
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Hand #9
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View hand 289447
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Hand #10
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View hand 289448
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Hand #11
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View hand 289449
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Hand #12
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View hand 289450
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Turn is obviously a mustbet. I don't mind your 1bb bet tbh. I think he would bet
flushdraws on flop, as would he bet toppair and middle pair before more overcards
come, so mainly looking at straightdraws and bottom/3rd pair to get value from and
you're doing great against pretty much all those hands. Sucks a bit if he calls and
river is a 6 but I think you can safely check/fold given that I doubt he's turning a lot of
onepair hands in a bluff (76o for example) and if he valuebets them he's probably
going to bet them pretty small (which I doubt a random fish does a lot, valuebetting
thin).
Quote:
Hand #13
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View hand 289451
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Hand #14
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View hand 289452
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Hand #15
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View hand 289453
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Hand #16
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View hand 289454
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Hand #17
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View hand 289455
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I know this sounds like "bet for protection" against this kind of opponent and betting
for protection in general is a stupid reason to bet, but you can take down the pot and
there's actually some worse hands he can call here with. It's also good info if he c/c's
with - say - A3o and checks it down unimproved. Or he just calls with a flushdraw on
flop and doesnt bluff river (something I expect him to do, not bluff very much, but we
can't be sure of that just yet in a raised pot.
Quote:
Hand #18
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View hand 289456
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Hand #19
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View hand 289457
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Hand #20
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View hand 289458
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Hand #21
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View hand 289459
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I would just fold vs his donkbet tbh, just let him win this pot here, so he will give some
respect if we raise next time when he leads. If you DO decide to bluffraise here, I
would make it sligthly bigger, 180 or 190 or something, to try and maximize fold
equity on the flop since we rarely have showdown value here after getting called
here.
Quote:
Hand #22
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View hand 289460
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Hand #23
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View hand 289461
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Hand #24
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View hand 289462
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Hand #25
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View hand 289463
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Hand #26
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View hand 289464
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Flop: LEAD, really, lead! I think he will be checking back some holdings like T6o
which have great implied odds vs our hand and will check back a ton but will defenitly
call a bet from time to time. Vs someone who stabs 100% (or close to it) this is an
easy checkraise on flop given that it's unlikely for him to have bottom pair since we
hold two casecards so villain's range will be draws/nuts/air and he won't check back
too much with showdown value. Vs this opponent however, I would just lead out 50
here given the drawyness of the board. As played, raisesize on flop looks a bit small
since he probably has a piece of the board you can go a little bigger here (120-150).
Obv snapcall shove and try to pair the board next time.
Quote:
Hand #27
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View hand 289465
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Hand #28
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View hand 289466
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Ok, now flop. Ehm, we know now that he indeed bets a flushdraw on the flop, but will
probably check back his airhands. I think both checking and leading can go here.
However, if you do check, it's too checkraise! He raised a couple of times preflop, so
KJ+/AK/KK+/JJ is probably not in his range. I know it's the first time he bets pot but
you're mainly only afraid of K5/55/J5 here and if you checkraise he'll jam his
flushdraws a bunch of the time (or call with them), and will very likely stack off with
any Kx hand here as well and he will have you beat only a real small percentage of
the time.
I think you missed out a great double up spot here tbh, even if you check preflop, it's
not too hard to put in 22bb's if villain pots it on the flop.
Quote:
Hand #29
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View hand 289467
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Hand #30
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View hand 289468
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Hand #31
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View hand 289469
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Hand #32
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View hand 289470
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Hero (BB): t1750 M = 38.89
BTN/SB: t1250 M = 27.78
Hand #33
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View hand 289471
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Hand #34
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View hand 289472
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Hand #36
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View hand 289474
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Flop is fine if you check though, given that he bets any piece/draw so far and if he
has nothing he checks anyway so yeah. Turnbet is unnecessary once flop goes
check/check imo, he just has nothing and it's really unlikely he has a hand he can call
turn with, let alone call turn AND river with on this board. Just check, hope he hits a
pair on river and try to get a small bet there.
Quote:
Hand #37
Poker Stars $11.00+$0.50 No Limit Hold'em Tournament - t25/t50 Blinds - 2 players -
View hand 289475
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Hand #38
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View hand 289476
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Hand #39
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View hand 289477
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Hand #40
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View hand 289478
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Hand #42
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View hand 289480
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Turn obv is a c/f, so is river imo. I really really doubt he is ever bluffing here, or
valuebetting a worse hand even... You only need to be good once every 4 times but
you really don't get there vs this opponent.
Quote:
Hand #43
Poker Stars $11.00+$0.50 No Limit Hold'em Tournament - t25/t50 Blinds - 2 players -
View hand 289481
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Hand #44
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View hand 289482
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Flop you can again, lead out, don't fall into the habbit of autochecking flop. Given you
checked each time before, I would lead out here some percentage of the time at
least. Turn is a good card fire with some equity, yeah, he's defenitly folding some
Kx/Ax hands here so leading looks good.
River I would make a fake blocking bet fwiw. I'd expect him to bet Jx or 8x a bunch
on the flop, so he either has Tx/9x/KT/flushdraw/Qx here. Just make a small bet, like
90 or something, and let him fold his chops or better hands (KXcc for example). This
move doesn't need to work too much for it to be profitable and he will have a busted
draw enough of the time and will rarely bluffraise you.
Quote:
Hand #45
Poker Stars $11.00+$0.50 No Limit Hold'em Tournament - t25/t50 Blinds - 2 players -
View hand 289483
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Hand #46
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View hand 289484
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Hand #47
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View hand 289485
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Hand #48
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View hand 289486
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Hand #49
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View hand 289487
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Hero (BTN/SB): t1755 M = 23.40
BB: t1245 M = 16.60
Hand #50
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- View hand 289488
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Hand #51
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- View hand 289489
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Hand #52
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- View hand 289490
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Hand #53
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- View hand 289491
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Hand #54
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- View hand 289492
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Hand #55
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- View hand 289493
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Hand #56
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- View hand 289494
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Hand #57
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- View hand 289495
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Hand #58
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- View hand 289496
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Hand #59
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- View hand 289497
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Hand #60
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- View hand 289498
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Hand #61
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- View hand 289499
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Hand #62
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- View hand 289500
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Hero (BB): t1670 M = 11.13
BTN/SB: t1330 M = 8.87
Hand #63
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- View hand 289501
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Hand #64
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- View hand 289502
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Hand #65
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- View hand 289503
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Hand #66
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- View hand 289504
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Hand #67
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- View hand 289505
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Hand #68
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- View hand 289506
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Hand #69
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- View hand 289507
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Hand #70
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- View hand 289508
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Hand #71
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Hand #74
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Hand #76
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Hand #78
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Hand #79
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Hand #80
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Hand #81
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Hand #82
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Hand #87
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Hand #90
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Hand #91
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Just look at pot odds, you need to call 1000 more into 1600-ish pot which means you
need around 38% equity and you have K-high so you're not often going to be in that
bad a shape!
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Hand #92
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Hand #101
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Hand #105
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Hand #107
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- Spamz
SPAMZ ' SECOND HAND HISTORY REVIEW
I think this villain is slightly more interesting than the one in the first hh. I tried
explaining how to exploit someone who just shows blind agressiveness and how to
react to it.
Quote:
Hand #1
Tournament - t10/t20 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t40
BTN/SB wins t40
Ok, first of all, most people know that I'm not familiar with the 10/20 level but still
should be able to give some decent advice here.
I know you're kind of "nitty" oop but your hand isn't a bad hand to defend with for
"only" an extra 40 in chips. I don't mind being nitty-ish oop, though while stacks are
still deep enough, it's important you can try and get some postflop reads as early as
possible. Does villain cbet? Does he 2nd barrel a scarecard? What's his betsizing
postflop like?
All these things are kind of easy to try and gain info on with a hand like 76s since
we're gonna flop middle pair most of the time (or bottom pair or a weak toppair some
of the time) or some kind of draw and we will have an easy c/c re-evaluate turn here.
Some people just don't cbet, some will fire once and give up, if we get to know what
opponent we're dealing with after defending like 2-3 hands oop then we're gonna
have a real good edge when stacks get shallower vs a random villain, just because
most people fail at adapting, a lot of them will just play the same throughout the
entire match.
So yeah, I think defending here preflop is even better due to the information we get at
the earliest stage of the game.
Quote:
Hand #2
Tournament - t10/t20 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t200
Hero wins t200
W00t, raise preflop looks nice/std, I think either 2.5bb's or 3bb's with these stacksizes
works best indeed.
Flop betsizing: I kind of like it tbh, keeps the pot not too bloated, if he checkraises we
can easily peel a card and see what he does on the turn given that we have position,
and if we do hit we can still build a nice pot on turn/river. Since in headsup games
opponents usually dont have a strong hand (or any hand), I just feel that half pot is a
good risk/reward to bet with almost any kind of hand. 50 or 60 here and I wouldn't
make it any bigger, nice bet.
Turn: ehm, here I think you bet a LITTLE too big, I would probably just make it 120.
Thing is if he has a hand of the AKQJT type (read: gutshot + gutter or two pair), he's
obv not going anywhere. But because your raise preflop was just 2.5bb's I feel that
his defending range will be slightly wider than a "normal/tightish" defendingrange.
The A is a scarecard for a reason, and if you bet it that big, villain will give you some
credit readless, even fish, unless he's a huge callingstation which we don't know yet
given that it's only the second hand. 150 is just too big a bet, if you bet 120 here I can
easily imagine a hand like T8 or a weak Jx to peal a second time hoping you're
bluffing or thinking he has "odds" to outdraw you. No need to balance your betsizing
range vs fish or anything, just think betting 120 here will get calls way more often
than a bet of 150 which looks really big/strong.
If you had a hand like 97cc I would actually think a bet of 150 is better because we're
semibluffing obv and all the extra fold equity helps us.
Quote:
Hand #3
Tournament - t10/t20 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t40
BTN/SB wins t40
Hand #4
Tournament - t10/t20 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t20
BB wins t20
I expected you to open less buttons than I expected but can't blame you for just
folding a craphand like that.
Quote:
Hand #5
Tournament - t10/t20 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t360
Hero wins t360
Ok, villain opened pot 3x on the button so far, so that's probably gonna be what he
will be doing most of the hands.
We don't have any postflop reads so far, but what the hell, we need them at some
point so why not now? A2o is quite a bit ahead of "ATC" (which I assume he raises
his buttons with so far). Note that it's actually gonna be "easier" to play 76s oop than
A2o because we will suffer from reverse implied odds with A2o a ton more. If you flop
an ace, are you good? You probably won't get too much action unless you're beat
anyway. If you have 76s, you're obv not going to put your money in (or a lot of money
at least) with just a pair, so you're looking for two pair/trips/flush/straights with a hand
like 76s and it's very unlikely that villain will have you beat when you have one of
those hands. It's going to be a lot easier for villain to have a second best hand when
you have a monster with 76s than when you flop TPNK with A2o.
Ok, so we flop our toppair, and a gutshot, great. You check to villain (std so far since
we don't know anything about his cbetting and would like to know), and he bets, pot!
Hmmmz, this is usually like nuts/air kind of thing though we can't be sure of that. I
don't get your really big checkraise here, what are you afraid of or what are you trying
to get value from? Especially with the gutshot yourself I don't see any reason to raise
the flop here, especially not that big. If you flat AJ preflop for example and try to get
some value/get it in here with TPGK vs a weaker TP than that would be fine imo, but
if you checkraise here with this size you're really folding out all worse hands imo, and
getting it in vs a range of Ax or better (two pair/sets/straights). Also you're gonna get
folds a ton here, villain will just have missed this board A TON since he seems to be
raising close to ATC on the button, so we can only hope that he improves with his
T8o-kind of holding to a pair on turn/river and pay off a (small) bet from Hero. Only
"bad" thing is if he has 4x and that's about it, because a 2 will give us some reverse
implied odds and I wouldn't put villain necessarily on a straight when one of the 3
remaining deuces rolls of on turn or river. The way you size your bet I even doubt you
get floated by a medium sized pocket pair or a hand like 54o, who don't do too well
vs your hand even. Let's just say you flatted AJ again pre and you're willing to
stackoff here (which I don't mind at all, au contraire, the purpose of flatting a big hand
like that is to try and get value from weaker hands on a board like this) then I would
just make a raise to around 320, defenitly not more. Try to let him float you as wide
as possible, with like 2-5 outs or something, if he has more outs or has you beat or
has top pair as well he's not folding anyway, you just try and need to get value from
the really weak part of his range (or even total air floats) and bet accordingly.
Quote:
Hand #6
Tournament - t10/t20 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t20
BB wins t20
Meh, again, don't hate the fold, but if you fold here I think you should be opening ATC
your next button since even fish notice someone being tight or not. I'm not saying
they adapt by folding more preflop (some will, most won't) but you'll have an easier
time representing a hand postflop and you will get bluffed on way less often (or
floated) and if the board runs out like with the KQ hand (xJTA board) then you're
gonna get a ton of folds on the turn irregardless of your betsizing being 120 or 150
actually.
Quote:
Hand #7
Tournament - t10/t20 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t800
BTN/SB wins t800
Wow, k, preflop looks fine, he seems to keep opening 100% of his buttons to 3bb's
and A2s plays a little easier than A2o. Preflop looks standard and best choice imo.
Postflop... let's see... You check, which is fine, given that he cbet last time on an A35
board (probably with air/weak hand given that he folded) so since he opens 100% of
his buttons I expect him to fire almost 100% of his range on a board like this.
He bet 5bb's into 6bb's, you raise to 17bb's. I really don't get what you're doing here.
Let's just look at some examples. He has Jx or Kx, no way he's folding EVER here,
especially because you checkraised last hand as well (and people just dont fold two
pair or trips in general) + your hand has a decent amount of equity + decent implied
odds vs those hands anyway so why checkraise here and put ourself in a difficult
spot when he calls or jams?
Let's just say he has air here, then he has like 4-5 outs given that his unpaired
holecards can only hit a couple of cards which suckout on you, so vs like 80%+ of his
range you have around 85% equity anyway, why would you want to raise him of his
marginal/hopeless hand anyway? If he has a weaker flushdraw (or straightdraw) you
defenitly don't want to be raising them out of the pot. I doubt he's folding a hand like
87cc here to a checkraise obv, but that's like the only hands we can get value from
besides if we hit and they hit too, money is going in which is wheeeeeeeee fun fun
fun obv! If he has a pocket pair, he might fold it on flop, but meh, 2 checkraises in two
hands, I think he peels at least one street with it and we're like 50% vs those hands
anyway so no real "raise for value nor bluff here".
If you had like 67cc and defended I wouldn't have minded your play, mainly because
we can fold out a TON of better hands (mostly highcard hands obv) and we still have
a decent amount of equity when called and an easy fold when we get shoved on.
HOWEVER, I think your raisesize is too big again, you basically get the same amount
of folds when you just raise to 280. This is a board where villain will either float on or
not imo, if he's floating AQ/88 type of hand, I doubt he'll call 280 and fold for 340, so
just making your semibluffs a little cheaper on boards like this helps a ton. If the
board was a little more "random" as I like to call it (hey, I'm not a native english
speaker, sue me), like J86hh and you want to pull a checkraise semibluff, you can go
make it a bit bigger, trying to get some folds from weak pairs but on a board like this
this just barely makes any difference. Just flat the flop imo with your nutflushdraw,
see a turn.
Quote:
Hand #8
Tournament - t10/t20 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t100
BB wins t100
Ok, preflop looks fine, as said before, raise ATC here. However, i can NOT see how
you do not cbet here, really. You have somewhat of a nitty, although agressive
image, it's very hard for villain to have hit a big hand (or anything) on a board like
this, just because it's so dry. BET IT, take down the pot, he's gonna give you credit
for a decent hand most of the time here given you didn't raise your button that much
before so I can't see him start floating randomly with a hand like KT for example.
Idk what you're trying to accomplish really by checking back flop/turn and folding
river, board is almost perfect for a cbet here. You know as well as I do that most
villains call you preflop with crappy hands, totally unconnected and sometimes close
to ATC, you can't just check it back and hope to win the pot by checking it down up
till river unimproved, either villain will outdraw you or if he doesn't hit he will likely bluff
you of the best hand a ton of the time. You really need to start exploiting your
opponent when he's calling too much oop by cbetting a decent percentage on board
he's unlikely to have hit on (like this one for example). Will he fold better hands?
Yeah defenitly some better highcard hands, maybe some pair hands too (bottom
pair/underpair some percentage).
Quote:
Hand #9
Tournament - t10/t20 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t20
Hero wins t20
Quote:
Hand #10
Tournament - t10/t20 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t100
BB wins t100
Again, same story as hand before, especially when there's a big gap on the board
between two cards, STAB AT THE POT. If it's a limped pot you can stab in position
or out of position, if you raised pre you can (and should) cbet most of your range
here. It's really hard for villain to have hit anything here (again), especially if he
defends wide (which he seems to do so far, 3/3 times he defended), so take down
the pot before he bluffs you off it!
Quote:
Hand #11
Tournament - t10/t20 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t40
BTN/SB wins t40
Quote:
Hand #12
Tournament - t10/t20 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t100
Hero wins t100
Your betsizing is a little big against an opponent who defends really wide (4/4 so far)
imo, against a somewhat nittier opponent it's very likely that he will have hit some
sort of draw here or a second best hand (9x usually) so I wouldn't mind your bigger
bet to get some more value from all the draws on the board. But against him, he just
has ATC, so unlikely he has a (strong) draw or any piece of the board at all, try to
keep him in with as wide a range possible. Don't get me wrong, I don't think 75 is a
huge mistake or anything, but it's about the biggest I would do against this particular
opponent, usually like 50-75, more likely close to half pot.
Quote:
Hand #13
Tournament - t10/t20 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t40
BTN/SB wins t40
He opened 100% to 3bb's so far so I wouldn't mind a bluff3bet the next time he raises
his button. I don't expect him to fold his button all that much (maybe he will, maybe
he won't) but even if he does defend wide, we're gonna take it down with a cbet
postflop A LOT of the time (so either he doesnt defend wide vs 3bets in which case
we have a ton of fold equity preflop, or he defends wide and his handrange is so
weak/unconnected that we can pick up the pot a lot postflop).
Quote:
Hand #14
Tournament - t10/t20 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t100
BB wins t100
Preflop looks fine, I wouldn't hate a bluffraise on this flop tbh. It's kind of hard to
calculate in what his donkingrange is exactly because it rarely happens that i just
check back twice and give up after raising preflop so I don't hate your fold here.
Could be that he donks a real hand here because you dont cbet often and he doesnt
want you to check back and potcontrol, could be that he just wants to bluff you off
your hand immediatly by leading out flop since you give up so easily it appears.
In general however, I don't mind a fold vs villain's first donkbet, just because he will
probably try to do it again later on and you will be given more credibility if you folded
once or twice and then decide to take a stand on almost any type of board.
Quote:
Hand #15
Tournament - t10/t20 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t20
Hero wins t20
Quote:
Hand #16
Tournament - t10/t20 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t40
Hero wins t40
W00t, didn't expect you to raise K2o fwiw, important thing to notice is villain folded
preflop.
I wouldn't mind a limp here either, as I said in the previous handhistory, just because
I think it's good to notice early on how villain reacts to limps and/or plays in limped
pots.
Quote:
Hand #17
Tournament - t10/t20 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t40
BTN/SB wins t40
Quote:
Hand #18
Tournament - t10/t20 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t1300
Hero wins t1300
Although I said that he would likely give you some respect when you raised a 2nd
donkbet of him, I think this is still a mustraise on the flop. I wondered how you didn't
raise here because you're always eager to protect your hands. Tons of straightdraws
and a flushdraw out there. Let's just see why you would raise here:
- A donkbet on a board like this is usually not a random total bluff from a hopeless
hand (like J2ss) although it could be.
- If he has a 7, we want some money into the pot on the flop before a random bull****
card like 9h comes. He might even 3bet jam a 7 trying to protect his hand, you see it
a ton.
- If he has a draw, again, we want some money in the pot. He might fold if he has like
54o but I cant see him fold any other draw here tbh.
- Since we have trips, and the board is drawy, it really sucks to be giving free cards
because villain has huge implied odds when he hits his straight or flush.
- If we make a smallish raise, I wouldn't be too surprised that a hand like QJ still tries
to float and hit one of his "overcards".
- Etc etc
So no real benefits in flatting flop imo, only bad things can happen from there on (not
getting action from 6x or people outdrawing you). Just raise it up to like 260 and try
lure him in with his entire range, you have position so you control what happens on
later streets. Obv once you flat flop flatting turn is best because we're crushing the
deck now and if villain hits his draw he's probably bet/calling a shove and if he he
misses he's very likely to bluff at it again. And if he has 7x he's gonna c/c a ton on
river.
Quote:
Hand #19
Tournament - t15/t30 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t180
Hero wins t180
Looks fine given that he cbet 2/2 times before. Again your betsizing looks a little big
given that I doubt he has a lot he can call with, I'd just make it around 100 here and
hope he calls with his weak pair or gutshot.
Quote:
Hand #20
Tournament - t15/t30 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t150
BB wins t150
I usually would check back and give up this flop against a lot of opponents but I think
this one defends superwide and there's defenitly some really weak uncoordinated
hands in his range which will fold flop but will bluff you off your hand on turn or river. I
know that you're turning your hand into a bluff this way (sort of), but I just don't think
it's the best/easiest board to try and bluffcatch on. I can't blame you for checking
back because it's my std vs a lot of opponents but when villain defends superwide I
feel it's important to cbet as much as possible because in general their handrange
will be very very weak.
Quote:
Hand #21
Tournament - t15/t30 Blinds - 2 players
Hero (BB): t1865 M = 41.44
BTN/SB: t1135 M = 25.22
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t540
Hero wins t540
Wow, wtf are you doing? We know he cbet 2/3 times before, and opens close to all
buttons to 3bb's and that's about it. Preflop looks fine, but wtf are you doing at flop? I
know I'm constantly talking about how weak his handrange will be in general and all,
but still, he bets pot, so we have ****ty odds to call with just our two overcards and
even against ATC I doubt we have the odds to call, let alone we have NO clue
whatsoever about his doublebarreling range. He seems to be really aggro so far
when we show weakness (by cbetting a lot, raising most buttons and stabbing when
there's no cbet) so I expect him to fire a second barrel on a TON of turncards tbh.
I think your intention here was to just float with some outs (very likely i know), and try
and take the pot down anyway on the river if he checks back turn. However, given his
agressiveness so far, I think this is a very ev- play from your part because in general
this type of opponent will fire turn a ton of the time, on a lot of cards, and you will just
sit there, c/f'ing your Q-high.
And "as played", again, your river bet is too big. No need to balance vs the times
(what I think your strategy was for floating flop) you want to bluff on the river vs a fish
with a bigger betsize. His handrange is pretty weak, like always, just bet smaller and
try to get a call from any pair by betting 300-ish.
Quote:
Hand #22
Tournament - t15/t30 Blinds - 2 players
Quote:
Hand #23
Tournament - t15/t30 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t180
Hero wins t180
Nobody's argueing that shoving isn't ev+ here imo, pretty flawless given how much
he opens his buttons. I think you can even shove ATC here over his 3x range given
the fold equity we have, although we don't know what exactly his callingrange would
be (some people will snap here with QTs fwiw, on all levels, $5 or $1ks, doesn't
matter), but it's your first 3betshove so I figure he's going to give you some "respect"
and not call it off too lightly (besides he's opening close to 100% so his foldingrange
will be huge no matter what).
Ok, so I think you should make it like 320 here preflop. Again, supersuperweak range
he has, and I can defenitly see some hands he calls a little over 1/3 of his stack with
and we can openshove practically any board ev+ (unless we flop a monster like A27r
or KK4cc board or something we can just bet smaller hoping to get a spazzshove
from air or whatever). I'd c/f some boards like T98tt for example because I think it just
hits his range too hard and I don't think he's going to defend stuff like J-crap or Q-
crap too much vs your big 3bet (unless he's totally braindead or something, which
can always be the case obv ). Just make it 300-330 here, and if he outflops you, so
be it... Most of the time it's gonna be you who has the best hand postflop or who
picks it up on a random board with a little under a PSB shove.
Quote:
Hand #24
Tournament - t15/t30 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t300
BB wins t300
Once again, CBET, you get all these great boards to cbet and don't take any
advantage of them at all. He's gonna c/f here so much imo... I also don't get what
your riverbet is trying to accomplish fwiw, I would just take the little piece of
showdown value you have (which I "kind of" doubt you have after him checking 3
times since he used to be stabbing after you showed weakness with checking back
the flop). Just bet the flop, take the pot down a lot imo.
Quote:
Hand #25
Tournament - t15/t30 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t180
BTN/SB wins t180
I would just jam here preflop as well. Just to show you how profitable it is: he opens
around 90% let's say, and let's just put his callingrange on perfect (22+ A6+) which is
15.5% of all hands. Against that range we have 32.284% equity.
So when he folds, we win 120 right there, which will happen 82.78% of the time.
When he calls, we are all-in in a t1880 pot with 32.284% equity which means we'll
lose t333 on avg in that case.
SOOOOOOO... 0.8278 x 120 - 0.1722 x 333 = 42
Shoving equals an avg chipgain of 42 chips considering he's opening 90% (likely to
be pretty accurate), and calling perfectly (VERY unlikely).
Reason why I think openshoving is best is because he cbets close to almost always,
and it's gonna be hard to bluffcatch on a ton of boards (like this board for example). I
know there's some boards we can easily c/c on (paired boards mainly, or when we
flop middle pair with our 6) but only thing we know about his double barreling is that
he didnt do it in one occassion. A6o is just a little too poor of a hand vs an agressive
opponent who bets a lot (and bets big most of the time) while our preflop edge is
pretty big (42 chips).
Quote:
Hand #26
Tournament - t15/t30 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t300
Hero shows Qs 6c (King Queen high)
BB shows Qc 4s (a pair of Fours)
BB wins t300
Again, cbet! Just looking at results proves what I'm saying all through the first 25
hands, he just plays ATC and doesn't connect with a board like this that often like you
see. Cbet, take it down, profit!
Also note that this is a pretty good board with pretty good stacksizes to do a
bet/bet/shove on vs an opponent where our image is quite nitty against. If he c/c's
flop, main part of his range is gonna be draws and weak pairs (usually not toppair),
bet like 80-90 on flop. On turn his hand will have improved to pair + weak draw most
of the time, so he'll call again on turn. Then when river bricks he'll fold almost all his
weak pairs because it's the first time you represent strength and if he had a
flush/straight/two pair on turn he wouldve let you known earlier in the hand most of
the time.
Quote:
Hand #27
Tournament - t15/t30 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t60
BTN/SB wins t60
Quote:
Hand #28
Tournament - t15/t30 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t60
Hero wins t60
Well, I dont mind you limping against him all that much tbh. We don't know how he
reacts to it but we'll find out soon. Vs a competent player it's best not to limp weak
hands like you did here but he doesn't seem to competent from what we've seen
before.
Flopsize stab looks good, well played. We now also know that he doesn't randomly
attack limps (usually when villains do that, they either do it right from the start or not
at all given he will likely think your first limp will be pretty weak; OR they do it after
losing a big hand, also possible).
Quote:
Hand #29
Tournament - t15/t30 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t30
Hero wins t30
I wouldve defended here if he raised to 3bb's. Our hand plays pretty easily and given
the size of his cbets most of the time, this is a great spot to checkraise bluff a decent
amount of boards. Suppose the board is like K43 and he cbets 150 into 180 we can
easily checkraise to 380-390-ish and pick up the pot A TON because villains usually
don't have the balls to reshove bluff there.
Quote:
Hand #30
Tournament - t15/t30 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t60
Hero wins t60
Quote:
Hand #31
Tournament - t15/t30 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t180
Hero wins t180
Your 3betsize is a little awkward here imo. When he flats he'll have 865 left with a
540 pot so you'll be committed on a ton of boards with only 1 or 2 overcards you
could be drawing too. I would advise to make it either bigger to be able to openshove
a decent amount of boards or make it smaller to "play some poker" and keep his
dominated holdings in.
Quote:
Hand #32
Tournament - t20/t40 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t200
BB wins t200
Yeah, I'd just fold given that he checked the Q4 on the KJ8 board before I think it's a
little more likely for villain to just indeed donk a hit or draw.
Quote:
Hand #33
Tournament - t20/t40 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t240
Hero wins t240
Again, just make it smaller here to openshove a ton of boards, around 415 or
something, hoping he'll spazzshove or flat with hands with one overcard some of the
time. Pretty much same as the AK hand earlier.
Quote:
Hand #34
Tournament - t20/t40 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t80
BB wins t80
K, you limped, he raised "only" pot (which I expected to some extent), I like a fold too,
to encourage him from attacking our limps a bit more so we can limp/shove a ton of
hands. Just keep in mind he's probably not autopotting ATC, he did it 1/2 but given
we folded now I think it's a little more likely for him to start doing it more and more.
Quote:
Hand #35
Tournament - t20/t40 Blinds - 2 players
Hero (BB): t1935 M = 32.25
BTN/SB: t1065 M = 17.75
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t80
Hero wins t80
Wow, he limped, fwiw, like this guy plays, I think he has a TOTAL crap hand here. I
wouldn't raise preflop, just because he's easy to play and all, but given his raising
frequency on the button, I highly doubt he even has hit any pair here so I would just
check and let him try to take a stab at the pot and call his bet.
I like leading out here vs certain opponents, but not vs him, given that in best case he
has an 8 and in most cases nothing at all.
Quote:
Hand #36
Tournament - t20/t40 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t40
BB wins t40
Quote:
Hand #37
Tournament - t20/t40 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t80
BTN/SB wins t80
Quote:
Hand #38
Tournament - t20/t40 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t80
BB wins t80
Again, limp is fine, don't overdo it though, although this is a pretty "decent" hand to
do it with. He checked preflop, so that's 1/3 he raised oop so far, keep that in mind for
later on.
Ok, so flop is somewhat drawy but paired, just stab it imo, take it down a lot. He
seems to give up a lot once you show a little bit of interest in the pot so far and I
doubt that'll change a lot. He will fold some better hands, and some worse hands
here, doesn't matter that much. If we check behind, we lose the pot most of the
times, if we bet, we win it most of the times.
Also, I wouldn't fold that turn. He could be betting a way weaker draw (as weak as
gutshot) or basically anything here (since he does that a lot when he spots
weakness) and we have a flushdraw with an overcard so you can defenitly peel to
see a river imo, and even if we miss you can bluff villain of a better highcard on fifth
street.
Quote:
Hand #39
Tournament - t20/t40 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t240
Hero wins t240
Preflop fine, flop is fine (given I think he bets 100% of his range), turn fine.
River is weird, I've seen you do this a ton, blockbetting like that. I actually don't hate it
tbh. Best case he has a 9 or an 8 which checked the turn but with your kicker you
can actually valuebet vs a worse 3 or even a 2 since I think most of his limpingrange
is gonna be really weak and include at least one card 5 or lower. Std would be to
check for me, betting like 1.5bb's looks actually pretty cool here with the info we
have.
Quote:
Hand #40
Tournament - t20/t40 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t200
BB wins t200
Hmmmz, weird, although it's a small 3bet, I kind of like a fold. I think he actually has a
pretty strong hand here considering he usually just mashes the pot here and wouldn't
be too surprised when he shows up with JJ+ here or something. If he wants to bluff
he'll do it either bigger, or try and stab postflop.
Quote:
Hand #41
Tournament - t20/t40 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t240
Hero wins t240
Again, like I said I would defend the J9 hand before, I would just call here as well. His
handrange again pretty weak (notice he started limping some so probably not
SUPERweak like 90%+ anymore but obv still big enough to make shoving ev+ here)
but it's way more valuable to keep dominated holdings in preflop and stacksizes are
good for a checkraise bluff again on certain types of board textures.
Quote:
Hand #42
Tournament - t20/t40 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t200
Hero wins t200
Bet looks too big again, just bet smaller for value against this player, he'll never
notice, we want to keep his weak hands in, not out.
Quote:
Hand #43
Tournament - t20/t40 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t240
Hero wins t240
Given stacksizes and fact that he just pots button and only has 22bb's and you
shoved a couple of times before (so he'll call you a little lighter now) I think shoving is
by far best option here with AK.
If you had like QQ+ here I would just flat tbh, just because he seems to be cbetting
most of the times anyway and with these stacksizes I can't see him get away from
any pair or draw postflop if we checkraise.
Quote:
Hand #44
Tournament - t20/t40 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t80
Hero wins t80
I would start minraising here. I've taken a quick preview through rest of hh's and I see
that you still 2.5x your button when like REALLY shallow. I know you don't raise too
light on your buttons and all, but still, easiest/cheapest way to steal his blind is to
minraise and give him worse odds to shove his stack over your buttonraise. If you
raise to 2.5bb's while being 20 or less bb's shallow then villain can shove a VERY
wide range profitable over your buttonraisingrange.
Quote:
Hand #45
Tournament - t20/t40 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t80
Hero wins t80
Meh, I kind of hate all options here with these stacksizes, don't think you can do
anything wrong though tbh. Given his limpingrange is really weak in general, I don't
mind a regular raise, enough flops we can take it down. I wouldn't mind a shove
preflop for like 18bb's here either, he's gonna be limping a monsterhand close to 0%
of the time here I feel (and even if he did, we will have one livecard almost always
anyway). I wouldn't mind a check here either, just play a pot postflop, he seems to
stab (big) once and then give up unless he has something so he's quite easy to play
postflop imo. Flip a 3sided coin imo, all pretty close.
Quote:
Hand #46
Tournament - t20/t40 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t80
BB wins t80
Ok, don't mind the limp, with these stacksizes, limp/folding is by far best option. I
would probably minraise here though, let him still call with a bunch of hands where
he'll c/f flop with.
Quote:
Hand #47
Tournament - t20/t40 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t80
BTN/SB wins t80
Meh, he seemed to start limping some hands too and given that we don't have any
relevant/recent/good reads on his openingrange (which I still think is gonna be big,
but whatever), we also have no idea of his callingrange if we shove (does he call KT-
type of hands for example?), I don't mind your fold here. I think shoving is probably
slightly ev+ but defenitly high variance and if we're a little off on either
opening/callingrange gonna be ev-.
Quote:
Hand #48
Tournament - t20/t40 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t600
Hero wins t600
Again, minraise pre. I don't mind trying to steal here given that I think he will defend a
ton and c/f most boards.
Flop looks fine, it's hard for him to have like anything, if he has a flushdraw, money is
going in on any street anyway imo, just flat, hope he spazzes with random air on turn
or hit a pair or something. Your turnbet looks kind of big though with these
stacksizes, again his handrange will be a lot of air but the hands with a little bit of
showdown value/equity will likely call/shove over a bet of 220-ish here imo.
Quote:
Hand #49
Tournament - t20/t40 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t40
Hero wins t40
Quote:
Hand #50
Tournament - t20/t40 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t80
Hero wins t80
I don't expect him to defend THAT much but A8 isn't exactly the hand that plays well
vs a stop&go (which is something I think this opponent is still likely to do).
Quote:
Hand #51
Tournament - t20/t40 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t40
Hero wins t40
Quote:
Hand #52
Tournament - t20/t40 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t80
Hero wins t80
Hand #53
Tournament - t20/t40 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t40
Hero wins t40
Quote:
Hand #54
Tournament - t20/t40 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t80
Hero wins t80
Given that you seem to be in push/fold mode from 10bb's or shallower, looks fine
using nash.
Quote:
Hand #55
Tournament - t20/t40 Blinds - 2 players
Flop: (t570) 9 8 K
Turn: (t570) 2
River: (t570) 6
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t570
Hero shows Th Jd (King Jack high)
BTN/SB shows Ah Td (Ace King high)
BTN/SB wins t570
HE TRICKED YOU! 7bb's, JT, money going in no matter what obv. Std shove over
his limp, you like barely need any fold equity here.
Quote:
Hand #56
Tournament - t25/t50 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t50
BB wins t50
Quote:
Hand #57
Tournament - t25/t50 Blinds - 2 players
Hero (BB): t2405 M = 32.07
BTN/SB: t595 M = 7.93
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t100
BTN/SB wins t100
Quote:
Hand #58
Tournament - t25/t50 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t260
BB wins t260
Hand #59
Tournament - t25/t50 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t50
Hero wins t50
Quote:
Hand #60
Tournament - t25/t50 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t50
BB wins t50
Quote:
Hand #61
Tournament - t25/t50 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t100
BTN/SB wins t100
Quote:
Hand #62
Tournament - t25/t50 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t100
Hero wins t100
Hand #63
Tournament - t25/t50 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t300
Hero wins t300
I don't mind a shove here, again a little deeper and I would flat but I think he's going
to feel committed with a bunch of hands preflop.
Quote:
Hand #64
Tournament - t25/t50 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t260
BB wins t260
Minminminraise.
Quote:
Hand #65
Tournament - t25/t50 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t50
Hero wins t50
Quote:
Hand #66
Tournament - t25/t50 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t1460
Hero shows 8d Qd (a flush, Ten high)
BB shows Jd Ah (a flush, Ace high)
BB wins t1460
He doesnt seem to attacking your limps randomly. I don't mind either minraise/folding
or limping but then it is to limp/fold because you're too shallow to defend and see a
flop because his range will probably dominate your holding quite a bit.
Quote:
Hand #67
Tournament - t25/t50 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t300
Hero wins t300
Pretty std, given he has some more stack again I expect him to 3x his button a bunch
and there's 200 in the pot already which we don't mind taking.
Quote:
Hand #68
Tournament - t25/t50 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t100
Hero wins t100
Quote:
Hand #69
Tournament - t25/t50 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t100
BTN/SB wins t100
Quote:
Hand #70
Tournament - t25/t50 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t260
BB wins t260
2nd time he 3bet you which wasn't a 3bet shove so i figure his range is quite strong
again (maybe not as nut-like as last time) but still your A4o is doing pretty bad
against his range obv.
Quote:
Hand #71
Tournament - t25/t50 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t300
Hero wins t300
Yeah, defenitly ev+ given he raising close to 100% again lately and A3s isn't the
easiest to play with these stacksizes. Shoving is just making life easy for yourself and
hard for him so yeah best choice here. Also if you start shoving a bunch over his 3x
he might start opening a smaller range which is defenitly good for you too.
Quote:
Hand #72
Tournament - t25/t50 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t100
BB wins t100
Hand #73
Tournament - t25/t50 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t100
BTN/SB wins t100
If your hand was a little more connected like Q9 or QT I would defend here probably,
can't blame you for calling but vs someone who opens a huge range and is very
predictable postflop I would probably call this a decent percentage of the time ingame
and see a flop and play some poker.
Quote:
Hand #74
Tournament - t25/t50 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t50
BB wins t50
Quote:
Hand #75
Tournament - t25/t50 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t100
BTN/SB wins t100
Hand #76
Tournament - t25/t50 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t100
Hero wins t100
Quote:
Hand #77
Tournament - t25/t50 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t300
Hero wins t300
Yeah stacks are almost equal like with the A6o before (15/30 and 900-ish stacks) so I
kind of wonder why you flatted there and shoved here? Looks fine, I'd only defend
with hands which play easy postflop against him and shove good all-in equity hands
(Ax, small pocket pairs mainly) because they play poorly postflop.
Quote:
Hand #78
Tournament - t25/t50 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t100
BB wins t100
I'd just try and keep stealing vs this guy. He 3bet you sometimes already but not that
much and he c/f's flop a bunch.
Quote:
Hand #79
Tournament - t25/t50 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t100
BTN/SB wins t100
Okay, so he limped again, quite an interesting spot. Ehm I think (although his
limpingrange will be weak in most cases and could've hit the 3 and 6 a bunch), I still
think you should either checkraise or lead the flop. I think I prefer checkraising
smallish to - say - 285 here would be best against this opponent because he seems
to be autostabbing and there's almost NO way he ever has toppair here as far as I'm
concerned. If you get called, you still have some outs, and you have a ton of fold
equity on the flop given you've been semi-passive so far. You can also lead for like
80 and bet a bunch of good turns where it's gonna be hard for him to call down with
3rd or 4th pair after a while, though I'd prefer him to stab his total air and put some
money in the pot while giving up when he feels ANY sort of resistance.
Quote:
Hand #80
Tournament - t25/t50 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t100
Hero wins t100
Quote:
Hand #81
Tournament - t25/t50 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t300
Hero wins t300
Again, std, as before. You're lucky you get a lot of easy shovehands in these spots
though.
Quote:
Hand #82
Tournament - t25/t50 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t100
Hero wins t100
I'd minraise here, I can defenitly see him defend a bunch of stuff. Ok, so he didn't
raise pre. I really wouldn't stab this flop. I think if he has an ace he would raise pre,
so you're only "afraid" of Q/J overcard to come. If he had some sort of draw he
would've donked the flop anyway imo. No need to balance vs fish, one of the most
important rules in poker imo, just check back here, and see him lead like 90% of
turncards and just let him bluff! You'll show "weakness" and he'll stab, just let him put
money in the pot when he has 0 equity imo.
Quote:
Hand #83
Tournament - t25/t50 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t100
BTN/SB wins t100
Quote:
Hand #84
Tournament - t30/t60 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t120
Hero wins t120
I wouldn't mind a limp with a hand like this either. Good showdown/bluffcatching
material (on paired boards mainly) and so far he stabs once and that's it (small
sample though where he had option of 2nd barreling).
Quote:
Hand #85
Tournament - t30/t60 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t120
BTN/SB wins t120
Quote:
Hand #86
Tournament - t30/t60 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t120
BB wins t120
Hmmz, he doesn't attack limps too wide, so I would just raise preflop for value. I
know he raises like around 30% so far but I just feel like he's going to call a bunch
pre (or jam a worse hand) and you lose value by limping in spots like this.
Flop fold looks fine, awful board for your hand if you ask me.
Quote:
Hand #87
Tournament - t30/t60 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t360
Hero wins t360
Hand #88
Tournament - t30/t60 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t360
Hero wins t360
Same as with the AJ hand, just raise pre for value vs him, he doesnt raise all that
much vs limps anyway.
Flop flat looks fine given biggest part of his range is air. I'd just check this particular
turn though, only thing he can call with is 4x anyway and you're not getten 3 streets
of value from that anyway. Maybe he'll try a desperate bluff on river once you check
back turn because he thinks you have a busted straightdraw or something. The only
most likely hand he could pay you off for maybe 3 streets (6x) just outdrew you so I
don't see any point in betting.
Quote:
Hand #89
Tournament - t30/t60 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t60
Hero wins t60
Yeah you won last two (medium sized) pots so I wouldn't raise here; he'll spite shove
a ton I think.
Quote:
Hand #90
Tournament - t30/t60 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t300
Hero wins t300
Again, WHY ARE YOU LIMPING? 2 hands of him checking pre not enough? Just
raise, he seems to defend superwide, probably defends undercards to your pocket
pair as well.
"As played", played okay imo, I doubt he ever has you beat with that line (assuming
he'll donk Qx or a gutshot on flop most of the time), so he can only have turned two
pair or something.
Quote:
Hand #91
Tournament - t30/t60 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t60
Hero wins t60
Quote:
Hand #92
Tournament - t30/t60 Blinds - 2 players
Flop: (t1310) T 4 Q
Turn: (t1310) 9
River: (t1310) 9
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t1310
Hero shows 2c Ac (a pair of Nines)
BB shows Qh Ad (two pair, Queens and Nines)
BB wins t1310
Yeah looks fine, for 11bb's, easiest/best way to play, especially if you think there's a
chance he'll flat pre imo.
Quote:
Hand #93
Tournament - t30/t60 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t60
Hero wins t60
Quote:
Hand #94
Tournament - t30/t60 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t60
BB wins t60
I think after him doubling up I would minraise here because I feel like he's defenitly
not going to 3bet light in this spot.
Quote:
Hand #95
Tournament - t30/t60 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t120
BTN/SB wins t120
You can probably shove here though I think it's marginal and will change gameflow a
bit by him shoving over your steals too so I wouldn't do it.
Quote:
Hand #96
Tournament - t30/t60 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t60
BB wins t60
Quote:
Hand #97
Tournament - t30/t60 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t360
Hero wins t360
Quote:
Hand #98
Tournament - t30/t60 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t120
BB wins t120
Bet flop lol, he will c/f 90% of time and will lead turn 90% of time. If you had Kx or 9x
you could opt to check back here imo.
Quote:
Hand #99
Tournament - t30/t60 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t120
Hero wins t120
Hand #100
Tournament - t30/t60 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t540
Hero shows 8d 8c (a pair of Eights)
BB shows Th 5c (a pair of Fives)
Hero wins t540
Ugh, once again, raise pre!!! So much value, I even think he would defend his T5o
here.
"As played" I think it's played fine, his bets look like 7x or something and you get
great odds to bluffcatch. Betting river for value looks a little too thin to me and I think
you barely beat his c/c'ing range so a check (also for the info what hand he b/b/c
with) looks fine.
Quote:
Hand #101
Tournament - t30/t60 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t720
Hero wins t720
Preflop is fine, flop too given he bets a bunch, however this is a GREAT spot to lead
turn. We haven't seen him double barrel at all (unless previous hand where he bet
smallish with total air) but apart from that I think he just checks back a bunch on turn
with any gutshot or hand he would call a bet with or spazz shove against. Just lead
turn for value here, expected to get called/jammed a bunch and if he folds he wasn't
putting anymore money in the pot anyway unless he draws out on you on the river.
We have a bit of info on his 2nd barreling frequency so we should use it to our
advantage imo.
Quote:
Hand #102
Tournament - t30/t60 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t120
Hero wins t120
Std, nh.
Quote:
Hand #103
Tournament - t30/t60 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t60
Hero wins t60
Quote:
Hand #104
Tournament - t30/t60 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t60
BB wins t60
Quote:
Hand #105
Tournament - t30/t60 Blinds - 2 players
Flop: (t1060) 2 5 K
Turn: (t1060) T
River: (t1060) 6
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t1060
Hero shows Js Qd (King Queen high)
BTN/SB shows 7s As (Ace King high)
BTN/SB wins t1060
I don't think he's shoving all too light tbh but still looks like a std call. Worst hand I'd
call here is like Q9/JT I think, should do the math but it's close.
Quote:
Hand #106
Tournament - t40/t80 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t160
BB wins t160
Don't mind a limp, doubt he's raising a bunch after doubling up.
Quote:
Hand #107
Tournament - t40/t80 Blinds - 2 players
Flop: (t2280) 6 6 Q
Turn: (t2280) 3
River: (t2280) 9
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t2280
Hero shows Qd Ks (two pair, Queens and Sixes)
BTN/SB shows As Qc (two pair, Queens and Sixes)
BTN/SB wins t2280
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t160
Hero wins t160
Hand #109
Tournament - t40/t80 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t480
Hero wins t480
Lol at having fold equity here. I've seen it before but it surprises me again and again,
obv stackoff though, nh.
Quote:
Hand #110
Tournament - t40/t80 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t80
BB wins t80
Quote:
Hand #111
Tournament - t40/t80 Blinds - 2 players
Hero (BB): t1000 M = 8.33
BTN/SB: t2000 M = 16.67
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t160
BTN/SB wins t160
Quote:
Hand #112
Tournament - t40/t80 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t160
Hero wins t160
I'd just openjam for like 11.5bb's fwiw, no need to let him stop&go (he did it before)
when we have a hand like this.
Quote:
Hand #113
Tournament - t40/t80 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t160
BTN/SB wins t160
Weird that he didn't stab flop here, given that his limpingrange is ultraweak imo, he
probably has a monster or a weak hand like 6x with some showdown. Just because
he didn't stab flop I doubt you're getting him away from any piece of the board on
turn/river.
Quote:
Hand #114
Tournament - t40/t80 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t160
Hero wins t160
Again, just openjam, 12bb's- I usually play push/fold which is easiest thing to do by
far.
Quote:
Hand #115
Tournament - t40/t80 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t160
BTN/SB wins t160
Quote:
Hand #116
Tournament - t40/t80 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t160
BB wins t160
Again, openshove here, I don't really mind a limp but 12bb's or shallower just using
nash push/fold is going to be easiest thing to do.
Quote:
Hand #117
Tournament - t40/t80 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t80
Hero wins t80
Quote:
Hand #118
Tournament - t40/t80 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t160
BB wins t160
Wow, 11bb's and you're limping this? I doubt you're a favorite over his raising range
here imo, just openjam again! Unexploitable no matter what his callingrange is.
Quote:
Hand #119
Tournament - t40/t80 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t80
Hero wins t80
Quote:
Hand #120
Tournament - t40/t80 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t160
Hero wins t160
Idk what your cutoff stacksizes are to play push/fold but if you don't push/fold all your
hands here, openjamming this can defenitly be ev-. Just stick to nash imo when
12bb's-, if you don't know what I mean here (re)read my post about
sage/nash/chubukov which I made while you were gone.
Quote:
Hand #121
Tournament - t40/t80 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t480
Hero wins t480
Hand #122
Tournament - t40/t80 Blinds - 2 players]
Flop: (t2320) K 3 9
Turn: (t2320) J
River: (t2320) 7
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t2320
Hero shows 7h 7c (three of a kind, Sevens)
BB shows Ad 8s (Ace King high)
Hero wins t2320
Again, I would just minraise for value and call a shove. Worked out this time but you
limped like 3 or 4 hands already that you were planning on limp/shoving and it's the
first one which worked and villain still had 2 overcards.
Quote:
Hand #123
Tournament - t40/t80 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t160
Hero wins t160
Given shallowness of stacks I don't mind how you played the hand; when a little
deeper you can opt to lead or checkraise really small on flop given he usually stabs a
bunch but with these stacksizes looks best to just check and hope he checks back
and we hit. Can't really do much else, with these stacksizes he's not folding any pair
or draw to a crai and we're in terrible shape. We can try and lead maybe, but even
then I feel we will get jammed on way too much to make it profitable.
Quote:
Hand #124
Tournament - t40/t80 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t160
Hero wins t160
Quote:
Hand #125
Tournament - t40/t80 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t160
BTN/SB wins t160
Quote:
Hand #126
Tournament - t40/t80 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t80
BB wins t80
Quote:
Hand #127
Tournament - t40/t80 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t160
Hero wins t160
I think his limps are pretty weak, I know he limped AT before when 7bb's shallow but
you checked like last 2 times he limped so I doubt he's ever limping a hand like that
in a spot like this again and will either pot button or just openjam himself.
That's why I would just jam preflop, tons of fold equity if you ask me and you still
have a decent amount of equity when called with 87s.
I like your riverbet fwiw if you chose to check pre. I think he'll have no diamond
enough of the time to take a stab there.
Quote:
Hand #128
Tournament - t50/t100 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t100
BB wins t100
Quote:
Hand #129
Tournament - t50/t100 Blinds - 2 players
Hand #130
Tournament - t50/t100 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t200
Hero wins t200
Gogo nash!
Quote:
Hand #131
Tournament - t50/t100 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t100
Hero wins t100
Quote:
Hand #132
Tournament - t50/t100 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t200
Hero wins t200
Quote:
Hand #133
Tournament - t50/t100 Blinds - 2 players
Flop: (t520) 8 A 2
Turn: (t520) 6
River: (t520) A
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t520
Hero shows 8s Qs (two pair, Aces and Eights)
BTN/SB shows 4d Ad (a flush, Ace high)
BTN/SB wins t520
Hand #134
Tournament - t50/t100 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t200
Hero wins t200
Quote:
Hand #135
Tournament - t50/t100 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t100
Hero wins t100
Quote:
Hand #136
Tournament - t50/t100 Blinds - 2 players
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t200
Hero wins t200
Quote:
Hand #137
Tournament - t50/t100 Blinds - 2 players
Flop: (t540) A 3 2
Turn: (t540) 7
River: (t540) J
Spoiler:
Final Pot: t540
Hero shows Ah 3h (two pair, Aces and Threes)
BTN/SB shows Kd Tc (Ace King high)
Hero wins t540
SPAMZ ' THIRD HAND HISTORY R EVIEW
Quote:
Hand #1
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View hand 308861
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BTN/SB: t1500 M = 50
Hero (BB): t1500 M = 50
Ok, flopcheck std, not really much we can "get value from" imo and it's always
interesting to know IF villain bets and if yes, how much. Okay, c/f standard as well, no
reason to win this pot here, we just note his tendencies of overbetting.
Quote:
Hand #2
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Turn is bad card to barrel, can't see him fold any piece of the board really, so
checking back is defenitly standard. Betting to get value here is way too thin without
any significant reads so far. In general I wouldn't try and barrel people early on too
much either; for all we know he could be biggest station alive.
River, good valuebet, I think you'll get looked up by 9x almost always and 5x or some
pocket pair a decent percentage; again, this is for thin value we're going, so half pot
is best way to go. Given that he folded he probably had a draw but obv we can't be
sure of that.
Quote:
Hand #3
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Flop isn't too bad, all highcardhands missed, if he's passive, we can lead out
perhaps, but would like to know if he cbets and how much (given that he overpot last
time I think his cbet size will be off again). He decides to check back, fair enough.
Turn isn't really best of cards, however, there's 2 flushdraws out there now, tons of
onecardstraightdraws and he might even peel with mere overs so I think betting turn
is good option, yes, for value. If you check and he bets you don't really know if he's
just stabbing trying to represent the overcard or not. Some people will autobet when
you check twice, some will just check back there showdown value. You would be
surprised how ev+ leading turn is here. He'll call with a bunch of hands, mainly 3x
and A-highs and hands like A9/A8/3x/22 will just check back river for showdown
value unless they improve. Checking back from a random villain on flop usually
means showdown value, in this case probably one of the hands mentioned before,
sometimes they check back a hand like T9 because they have a gutshot and don't
want to get checkraised, or check back QT because they only bet when they hit
something; but in general, checking back = showdown, at least that's what you
should be thinking about most villains you have no notes on.
So in this case, turn would go bet, he may/may not call and we see this river and he'll
check back with most holdings. Fwiw, I'd probably c/f on this particular river, he
needs to have checked back like total air/crap, maybe hand like 94 or something to
not have you beat here. I don't see too much valuehands he could be betting with,
but people check back this river so much that when they do bet, they actually have
Tx or maybe some weirdly played higher two pair most of the time (or a flushdraw
which didnt cbet).
Quote:
Hand #4
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View hand 308864
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Hand #5
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View hand 308865
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BTN/SB: t1320 M = 44
Hero (BB): t1680 M = 56
Hand #6
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View hand 308866
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BB: t1360 M = 45.33
Hero (BTN/SB): t1640 M = 54.67
Interesting how this hand played out, I really don't mind the checking down although
we obv have like ZERO showdown value. Flop is like the worst to bluff on imo,
people dont fold anything here (not even talking about pocket pairs, also about a
hand like his) because they're trying to fill up.
Turn you might stab but then again, meh, he raised preflop so he'll have something
imo. I don't see people fold Ax or Kx on this board just yet, also no pocket pairs are
folding and we shouldn't be results oriented and think there are a lot of suited
connectors in his range. Yes, he'll fold most of those, however, we have no real clue
about his range at this point so getting to showdown can be really valuable.
River again total **** card to let Ax or Kx fold, if it was 4 or 5 on river I prolly would bet
like 40 for value against highcard hands but here I just give up and take a note.
Quote:
Hand #7
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View hand 308867
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Hand #8
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View hand 308868
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Fwiw, I would probably stab flop for like 30, not as cbet or hoping to get called, just to
see what he does with certain hands. There's a bunch of people who lead out
(usually potbet) with ANY flopped pair so there's a good chance you'll pick up the pot
on the flop. If he c/c's 2nd or 3rd pair or a (weak) draw, make a note how he plays
this and exploit in future stages.
If you don't bet flop I agree with just checking it down and see what he has. He had
like nutlow here (or close to it) and didn't feel like fighting for the (small) pot with no
showdown.
Quote:
Hand #9
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View hand 308869
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Hand #10
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View hand 308870
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I think he has a piece of the board given that he bets and drawing to (possible) 3 outs
isn't the best thing to do so fold flop is pretty std.
Quote:
Hand #11
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View hand 308871
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Hand #12
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View hand 308872
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Hand #13
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View hand 308873
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Hand #14
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BB: t1380 M = 46
Hero (BTN/SB): t1620 M = 54
Hand #15
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View hand 308875
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Hand #16
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View hand 308876
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Hand #17
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BTN/SB: t1320 M = 44
Hero (BB): t1680 M = 56
Hand #18
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View hand 308878
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Hand #19
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I would probably lead the flop here. His limpingrange will be pretty weak and he's not
the type of player to float you randomly. There's defenitly a bunch of better highcards
we can fold out by leading flop.
Quote:
Hand #20
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River is such a ****ing sick spot, for real. I talked with some people over msn about it
and it's so ****ing close, we get great odds but really, imo, he's like
a: rarely valuebetting worse (one hand maybe like JxTh or something? Jx8h?)
b: rarely bluffing (really, this player is not bluffing a lot here)
I wouldn't mind his betsizing here, I don't think we can read a lot from it tbh, could be
2 pair, could be straight flush. On flop/turn, could even be 9x but no way he's betting
9x like that on river here. Looking back we got to agreement that river is very
probably best to fold but we were all honest to say that in-game we would probably
call anyway. Call because **** you that's why I call.
If he checks, it's an ez valuebet for around same size as his, maybe bit smaller, to
get 9x hands to call or weaker Jx or maybe even 7x/88/66.
Quote:
Hand #21
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If you check however, it's to c/f the flop vs this type of opponent because he's not
betting a lot worse and drawing to a straight on 3flushboard is usually pretty suicidal
so nice fold.
Quote:
Hand #22
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Hand #23
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View hand 308883
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Hand #24
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View hand 308884
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Hand #25
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BTN/SB: t1665 M = 37
Hero (BB): t1335 M = 29.67
I would probably lead out the flop here tbh for couple of reasons:
1) If he doesn't have anything he's not going to be putting a lot of money in the pot
anyway. He doesn't seem to stab those hands and even if he DOES turn a pair I
doubt he's going to be putting a lot of money in the pot (I can imagine him folding 54o
if turn is 4 and we bet out tbh).
2) On a board like this, he can easily peel with Tx or Jx or worse 9x hands but will not
bet them. The reason why he would call on flop is because he will think he'll have the
chance to see 2 more cards because he's in position. Also if he has a hand like 33
then this is the street where he might call a bet, not when there's 4 overcards on turn.
So yeah just lead out flop imo.
If you don't lead flop I see very little reason in leading turn except for the occassional
flushdraw he turned. He's not peeling with Jx/Tx here imo, and you're barely ahead of
a random 9x hand so meh. He prolly has undercards and after the board pairing I
could actually see him call a tiny riverbet when he paired one of his cards because
he knows he's not going to face any future bets.
Quote:
Hand #26
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View hand 308886
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Hand #27
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View hand 308887
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Hand #28
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BB: t1665 M = 37
Hero (BTN/SB): t1335 M = 29.67
I think flop is close tbh, given that he leads out he probably has a piece (I think more
weighed towards toppair and good middle pair), however there's a flushdraw out
there as well and we don't know how much implied odds we really got vs him
(probably not enough with a gutter getting 3-1) or how easily we can bluff him from a
hand if say an overcard comes. But we shouldn't even be in this situation because
you should raise preflop and if he leads then it's a pretty easy fold.
You can probably raise here as well, I don't see villain 3betting with anything less
than two pair so we can try and bluff him of a ton on turn (any A/K/Q we can bet; also
a bunch of diamonds or 4x when we hit obviously) though I don't expect him to fold
flop a lot and we don't know how much he falls in love with his hands when he does
hit something (which I think will be the case here, players like this rarely bet but when
they do have something they just rarely fold).
Quote:
Hand #29
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Hand #30
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Hand #31
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Hand #32
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Against most I would contemplate a river call because all draws missed and you beat
all of them, but I think this opponent is a bit too passive and I don't think he's betting
busted draws on river too much. Note that people can actually have trips here, and
not just JsXs, but also float with stuff like QJ because they have two overcards. From
this villain I expect to see either trips, some 9x hand or a pocket pair which bets river
most of the time.
Quote:
Hand #33
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Hand #34
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Hand #35
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Hand #36
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Hand #37
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BTN/SB: t1840 M = 24.53
Hero (BB): t1160 M = 15.47
Hand #38
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Hand #39
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Floplead looks fine because he doesn't stab too much and he definitly calls with 3x
and Tx but will not certainly bet them (or any straightdraw).
Quote:
Hand #40
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Hand #41
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As played, river is a fold imo. I don't mind the half potbet to get called by Jx (I expect
him to fold some percentage of the time with Jx though), but really, fold to the raise.
This guy is just too passive, I know you're getting great odds but I don't think he's
ever bluffing and rarely has Ax in this spot and he could have limped AQ some
percentage of the time. We don't need to chop a lot but we chop to rarely, this is
trips/boat/straight A TON.
Note that he limped KT and didn't bet TPGK and flatted when he turned trips though.
Quote:
Hand #42
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Hand #43
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Hand #44
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Hand #45
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Hand #46
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I don't mind the flopraise, given that he has any a piece of the board anytime he bets
himself so far I think raising is by far most ev+ play here. Unfortunately he folded
though.
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Edit: I just noted that blinds went up and therefore this is a MUST shove vs this guy.
If his callingrange is perfect than it's ev- to shove, however his callingrange will be
WAY too nitty imo so shoving would definitly be ev+ here, especially since it's your
first shove. Even nash has it as a shove, chubukov doesn't but chubukov implies
perfect callingranges which isnt true at all for this opponent.
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Hand #53
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I must say I don't hate it. Obv openshoving is always gonna be ev+, no doubt about
that. However, this guy will unlikely jam a lot over limps and we can try and play a pot
in position. Meh, I still like openshoving more. Thing is if we do hit something postflop
villain won't be putting any money in with bottom pair or something so yeah when we
bet at it postflop we will probably have the best hand anyway when he folds...
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Hand #57
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BB: t2215 M = 14.77
Hero (BTN/SB): t785 M = 5.23
Hand #63
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Hand #68
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BTN/SB: t1480 M = 9.87
Hero (BB): t1520 M = 10.13
A lot of people seem to have this. Almost never leading out, even though villain
doesn't stab a lot because they expect a continuationbet while there was no raise
preflop and then stab the turn because villain didn't "cbet".
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Hand #70
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Hand #71
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Uhmmmz, ugh, whatever, defending doesn't look too bad. If he has like AK and
doesn't improve he'll just check it back so yeah, can't see why defending would be
bad here though stacks are pretty shallow.
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Hand #77
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I don't do this a lot but I think this is a good spot for it though.
Edit: god I should pay more attention to blindlevels changing. Ehm, yeah with these
so shallow stacks shoving becomes way closer to limping because there's a ton more
dead money in the pot. Still think both are valid options.
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Hand #81
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Hand #82
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Hand #83
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So just jam preflop, and please, do NOT call river here. 4 to straight, this guy isn't
betting worse than your hand ever.
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Hand #84
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If he shoves pre you gonna call or not? You bluffcaught a passive guy on this river?
Really, this is just making your life difficult, just put your opponent in difficult spots,
not yourself. When there's an easy way out of a hand, it's usually going to be the
most ev+ one.
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Hand #91
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BTN/SB: t1850 M = 8.22
Hero (BB): t1150 M = 5.11
Hand #98
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Hand #99
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Hand #100
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BB: t1200 M = 4
Hero (BTN/SB): t1800 M = 6
Hand #101
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Hand #102
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BB: t1200 M = 4
Hero (BTN/SB): t1800 M = 6
Pre Flop: (t300) Hero is BTN/SB with T 8
Hero calls t100, BB raises to t1200 all in, 1 fold
Hand #103
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BTN/SB: t1200 M = 4
Hero (BB): t1800 M = 6
Hand #106
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Hand #107
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BTN/SB: t1200 M = 4
Hero (BB): t1800 M = 6
Hand #108
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Quote:
The first game, he raised every hand, and 3-bet my first 2 opens,
so I 4bet-shipped T9o in the fourth hand, expecting him to fold a
****-ton, and having some ways to win even when I get called.
He calls and shows TT, which is absolute worst-case for my
hand.
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Quote:
Ok, so aparantly your std size is 3bb's early on. I would advice to
test minraising a couple of games and see how it goes. You'll
notice how much more info you get when stacks are still deep-
ish.
Quote:
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Yeah I dont mind a fold now and then. There's a big difference in
a fish' experience between raising 100% and like 90%. They
have no idea about your frequency really, just let them know you
don't raise ATC and a fold from time to time (especially after
being active and winning most pots) is definitly in its place.
Quote:
Hmmmz, interesting hand, preflop seems std for me, it's just a
minraise and he seems to be doing it wide enough to defend
here + we need some postflop oop reads imo.
Don't get me wrong, I'm not giving up like that just because the
turncard paired the board. On turn, pot is 510 and villain has 845
behind. Given that he thinks you are spewy, I would bet smallish
here to try to induce a shove from him. Something like 225
should give him the illusion of fold-equity (around 1/4th of an
opponent stacks works best here in my experience). People tend
to see this as weak and shove a really wide range here (even
gutshots yes). Maybe he just has 8x and he was waiting for a
good turncard to get it in... let him get it in then.
With the line you took, you're going to get valuetowned by trips
ALWAYS and will only bluffcatch some percentage of the time.
Depending of the opponents agressiveness (you should have a
better idea of that) you should know a bit what draws he's
shipping on flop and which not. If you think he's flatting all but the
biggest draws on flop, then maybe you can c/c one street but I
doubt a lot of people bet small turn with a draw to shove river
here, looks like a sucker bet on turn to be able to shove river
imo. With your image, I would just bet small and get it in.
Quote:
Flop cbet is kind of big imo, I'd just go half pot and be done with
the hand. You only have a bluffcatcher on this board so doesn't
really matter how much you bet. Hands with 40%+ equity aren't
folding anyway, so you're just betting to try and take down the
pot and maybe you can improve or bluff at some cards when you
get called to try to get him off a better hand (8x mainly obv).
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Flop: (t1720) K 4 J
Turn: (t1720) K
River: (t1720) 6
Quote:
Limp is interesting, I think it's fine here actually. Idk if you did it in
previous game so I will just assume you haven't. He seemed to
be aggro to some extent from your description in the notes so I
could imagine he 3bets a decent amount so limping a hand like
this is fine. Most people (especially aggro ones) just love to
attack limps all the time, especially the first one(s), with ATC, so
if he raises to 3bb's I would be inclined to call. Something you
can do to see if he randomly attacks your limps is do it a bit
deeper stacked with like K2o type of hands and fold if he raises.
If you raise next couple of buttons and then limp once more he'll
definitly see it as weakness (most fish see it as well fwiw) so you
can exploit that in mid/endgame with limp/shoving certain hands.
Unless hand runs out like this obv, turn looks fine, enough
implied odds and he's probably bluffing some percentage of the
time and giving up on river and we have a bunch of equity
anyway. River std shove, I'm really wondering what villain had
here tbh.
Quote:
Quote:
BB: t720 M = 12
Hero (BTN/SB): t2280 M = 38
Ugh, this is really weird spot. First of all, I don't mind the limp
preflop, but don't start autolimping here too much. There's still a
ton of value you get by villain folding preflop or calling and c/f'ing
flop. Aparantly, this guy also doesn't autocheck flop but will lead
out a ton and I would rather limp in hands that flop toppair well
(like JT you did earlier) than a hand like K3 because aparantly he
doesn't give up on leading/bluffing(?) and a pair of 3s will be
quite hard to play vs a lot of agression unless you're comfortable
enough calling him down on certain boards. Reason why hands
like this are good to limp vs certain opponents is because on
certain boards it's ez to win at showdown when it gets checked
down but I don't think this type of villain will let you have it that
easily.
I'm not results oriented by the fact that he donked out here again
putting us in a ****ty spot, the reason why i suppose this is
because on the J87sss board he bet/bet/bet and folded to river
raise. His line makes sense for like either nuts or air imo, with
nuts being either a flopped flush or (flopped) straight and I don't
see ANYONE fold a flush/straight on the river there fwiw so he
most likely had total air (or something like Ks4x or something,
could be, but this just means he bet/bet/bet his draws and prolly
made hands as well so it's kind of hard to bluffcatch that way).
So here, even if you did limp, I would just fold the flop. Reason
for this is that stacks are really shallow, he won't give up easily,
and we probably have only 5 outs and he's gonna keep firing
and firing no matter what (toppair paired on turn, i'm quite sure
this gives him more draws than i would put in his range on flop,
but still, a lot of draws still have like 10 outs and we could be
drawing dead and quite sure he's jamming river). I don't think
you can profitably call flop here vs this opponent if you decide to
limp anyway, unless you're prepared to call it down all the way
(unless like a 9/8 comes off in which case all draws have us beat
now).
Quote:
BTN/SB: t840 M = 14
Hero (BB): t2160 M = 36
Ehm, his limps will probably be pretty weak, and especially with
21bb's shallow stacks I would just make it 120 preflop. He thinks
you're a spewtard, mashing the pot button he may decide to
limp/jam a total crap holding (i HIGHLY doubt this opponent
limps a strong hand so i would snap a limp/shove from him, less
than 10% of the time he's trapping imo given he minraises so
much).
Also, you should give him the chance to call with weak
(dominated) holdings, not push him out. 120 preflop gives a little
more manoeuvrability postflop as well, with 240 in pot (if he
decides to call) and 720 behind. If you make it 140 and he calls
and pot is 280 and he has 700 behind. Cbetting here will be
more expensive and jamming with any piece of the board easier
for him and we're going to be committed on a TON of ****ty
boards when we cbet because there's too much draws in his
range (obv you shouldn't be cbetting some % of these ****ty
boards if you're not happy calling a shove) but I'm mainly talking
about boards like 873 with a flushdraw or something. If he's
jamming any pair/draw we have odds to call after we cbet like
160 into 280 (we would need 32.14% equity to call a shove,
wereas 120 preflop and 140 on flop would require 34.52% equity
if villain shoves over our cbet). Just look at following handrange if
he decides to limp/call and jam over our cbet and see how close
it is:
Board: 8h 7h 3c
Dead:
Quote:
Quote:
Yeah just check/fold, let him have a pot. No need to start bluffing
someone who sees you as a spewtard even though we don't
know if he knows there's not a lot of Ax hands in our range. If
you lead out, you're gonna get floated a ton I think, and
checkraising you represent like nothing. Vs some players that's
not a problem, but this game we've been pushing him around a
bit and I doubt he folds any piece of the board really.
Quote:
Again, flopbet is quite big, why are you doing this? For some
reason, he floated you with only one livecard but you have to
assume that each time he calls you he will have at least 30%
equity (which is gutshot with livecard) or better draw or have you
crushed with a better pair. What you trying to accomplish with
your bet on a board like this? His most likely holding is
inbetween cards... either check back or let him bluff turn or bet
smaller. I wouldn't mind a 1bb bet here fwiw, I think this guy will
spazz raise over it and we can call his raise (or he will float like
he did here with like 25% equity while we have position which is
fine as well, there's a decent amount of turn/river combo's we
either improve or can bluffcatch on). Cbetting 110 is just
unnecessary and is turning your hand into a bluff. I think
checking vs this guy would probably be best idea because
stacksizes are awkward to bet like 80 and him checkraising to -
say - 250 because we would need to put a big part of our (or
entire) stack in to bluffcatch. So check back, call almost all turns
vs this guy.
Note that it's pretty rare that I check back showdown value like
here on flop but I think this is an okay spot unless you have an
awesome amount of momentum from previous matches in which
case you know 100% what to do vs a checkraise here on this
board vs this opponent depending on his betsizing.
Quote:
Just note his holding imo which will polar his bettingrange to
strong hands/draws or air.
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I would also fold pre I think, given that he floats kind of wide post
(with the Q5 hand), good pointed out chicagory
Quote:
K, flop check is fine, he'll bet most of his range here apart from
SOME highcards (and he raises most highcards preflop i guess)
and bottom pair so he'll bet all his hands which are in total
crappy shape and are just undercards to our pair of jacks which
makes this flop an easy c/c.
Ok, he checked back, which gives us some info about his hand
imo: he has showdownvalue. Now that we actually know a bit
more than usually, we can bet SLIGHTLY bigger to try and
extract value from hands like 3x or Ax/Qx with a heart. I'd bet
around 65 here, I don't think he'll fold a hand like 3x without a
heart because it will look like we're (semi)bluffing the flushdraw.
50 is fine as well, though I think he will call most of the times on
the turn here so we might want to charge him for it with a tad
bigger bet.
Ok, so plan for most rivers is to c/c obv when hearts fail, just
sucks that hearts come in now. He'll check back 3x a decent
percentage of the time to go to showdown imo, instead of
changing it into a bluff so river is quite an easy c/f.
Quote:
Flop: (t2430) Q 7 K
Turn: (t2430) 9
River: (t2430) 4
It's not easy to skew this into a range, you can obv try to and
start adding handcombo's in pokerstove which is fine. I think it'll
add up to around 45-ish% in which case we don't need a lot of
fold equity to make up for the 5% equity disadvantage we would
be getting it in with.
Still, with his sizing like this, I really think this is a weaker hand vs
most villains here. Don't be results oriented you see TT here.
YES, i've seen a bunch of people 3bet/fold here! No, this is
usually not a hand as strong as TT! I'm not going to be
pokerstoving because it will look manipulated with the # of
combo's i put in for each hand, but my grasp of a 3bet this size is
(when they want to get it in) medium-low pocket pairs (almost
never, ever TT+ tbh), or unpaired highcard hands.
Idk how else to explain this fwiw, I could've gone the easy way
and say that "this is his range, don't get it in" but getting it in here
is going to be best option against almost every villain apart from
the nittiest i guess, with these stacksizes and this betsizing
because his range is weighed towards non-nut hands.
Quote:
BTN/SB: t2430 M = 27
Hero (BB): t570 M = 6.33
Flop: (t1140) 9 T 9
Turn: (t1140) 8
River: (t1140) 7
Quote:
For some reason, he didn't bet flop, stabbing looks fine. Note
that in a limped pot, a 1bb stab will look a hell lot weaker than
like - in this case - t70. 1bb just looks like a stab, period. People
check, you hit bet to try to take the pot, that's what it looks like,
no other excuse. Given that he lead out most of his hands so far
in limped pots I don't think it makes any significant difference vs
this opponent because he's going to be c/f'ing a ton anyway. Just
realize that 1bb get floated/bluffed at more and use it to your
advantage (especially if you do it in midgame and like 3 times in
a row or something).
Quote:
BTN/SB: t1800 M = 20
Hero (BB): t1200 M = 13.33
Quote:
Yeah I'd just minraise vs him tbh. Try to steal his blinds, stacks
are shallow, so far we have no reason to believe he shoves light
over minraise while 12-20bb's shallow so we can try to steal his
blinds as much as possible. Once he has a piece of the board
postflop he doesn't seem to fold and plays most hands
aggressively so try to let him fold preflop before he catches a
pair or draw.
Ehm, checking back flop, hmmmz. I think he'll bet turn a decent
amount of time once we check flop, he lead/led(?) out a couple
of times full pot so he probably is doing it with a somewhat wide
range so I figure you have a ton of fold equity when you bet flop
and it prevents us from getting bluffed at later on because our
hand isn't that easy to bluffcatch with.
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What are you doing? Check preflop is fine imo, check on flop as
well, on a board like this, I'd probably checkraise tbh and try to
take it down. Reason for this is that he bets air/nut kind of hands
and checks back his showdown. You trying to let him fold 2x or
highcard on turn? Unlikely... This guy will always call you on this
turn when he checks back flop imo, ainec. Given that you say he
sees you as a "spewtard" and on river you only rep like trip T's I
don't see any point in betting here whatsoever, once he checks
back flop and this turn comes, just give up.
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I would probably limp with this hand fwiw. Either that or openjam
which would be ev+ as well unless he has like a perfect
callingrange which I doubt.
Reason for limping is that he allows it, and he bets big (if he
bets) and J8 flops kind of well and we keep dominated holdings
in by limping and he can go broke when we have him outkicked.
If you minraise, stacks are really shallow, and he doesn't have to
jam a lot over your minraise to make minraise/fold an ev- move.
You need around 42% equity when he jams preflop, and stacks
are really shallow so he's going to get it in light. It's still close,
probably a fold if he does shove over your minraise here, but
minraise/folding 12bb's shallow with a hand like yours is always
going to be close and it's kind of hard to estimate his
shovingrange at this point of the match. I didn't expect him to flat
all that much tbh, especially not with a hand like his.
I usually start using nash around 12-13bb's and J8o is a jam for
13.3bb's so ez all-in here. Minraising just creates really awkward
postflop stacksizes as well.
************************************************** **************
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Hand #1
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ughehuzgfuizefhezfbhuiqeifobzpfbezfbuqpze
stop betting so big
seriously
i mean it
Ok, on flop, why the big bet? This is a serious question. Do you
think someone who limp/calls 76o will fold on this flop? No! We
have a bluffcatcher vs draws, equitywise, but we will have a
****ty time catching bluffs unless we improve. Just bet half pot,
be done with the hand. There's only a very very small
percentage of hands/villains that would float with stuff like 22-55
if you bet 100 and fold when you bet 150 imo. Also, when we do
improve like here, what's the rest of the plan? Already 1/3 of a
stack in the middle when he called our flopbet.
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Hand #2
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Again, not being results oriented, but I would just fold this
preflop. You just won a big pot and I think villain will shove a very
wide range here (or at least 3bet, or never, ever give up postflop
when he defends) so just fold pre.
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Hand #3
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Yeah, just c/f, let him cool off a little. Having a tilted aggro villain
is never fun because you're more often gonna have no hand
instead of a strong hand.
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Hand #4
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Meh, you only did one button raise so far so raising to 3bb's now
will probably go unnoticed so I don't mind it.
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Hand #7
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You could opt to stab here oop, but c/f'ing is fine too.
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Hand #8
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I'd just minraise here fwiw. With these stacksizes you're kind of
pushing the edge of raising to 3bb's because that's over 10% of
villain's stack and if you're opening wide enough he can jam a
bunch of hands here.
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Hand #9
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Hand #10
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Ehm, I don't mind a check back here and check it down. As long
as you call when he bets turn because I expect him to stab a
decent amount of the time with almost any hand.
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Hand #11
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Hand #12
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Flop: (t1470) 6 7 T
Turn: (t1470) K
River: (t1470) 9
This is a call obv, though I would definitly not raise to 3bb's here
unless you have a read that he defends a wide range of hands
but c/f's a ton of flops.
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Hand #13
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Pre looks okay, flop fine as well. Ehm, I think leading turn is best
option here though. He checks back so he probably has some
sort of showdown value or weak draw and the turn is a perfect
card for thin value from Ax hands with a diamond or gutshots
with a diamond. River sucks a bit to bluffcatch here so I would
prolly c/f it once he calls turn but there's a bunch of rivers you
can check and he'll check back his AJ with a diamond or similar
hand thinking he has showdown and you got some value on
turn. Remember that in most cases checking back flop =
showdown, and they will usually call one turnbarrel and check
back river hoping to win showdown.
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Hand #14
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Hand #17
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Hand #18
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Wow, how can you not cbet here? For real... This is like the
perfect spot for a semi-bluff cbet and the perfect villain. He
doesnt stab much, doesnt seem to aggro and we have 6 clean
outs to the nuts. Why would you not bet here? Hoping to check it
down and 4-high is good?
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Hand #19
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Hand #21
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Wtf are you doing? Why you defending 82s preflop here oop to a
3bb raise? Even against the dumbest opponents I would
probably fold this oop vs a minraise... This just doesn't flop good
enough to ever make it profitable...
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Hand #22
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K so he's a bit pissed because you won last pot I guess. Too
deep to consider calling here, even if his range is wide.
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Hand #23
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Hand #30
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Thing about random fish is that in general they will defend too
wide and will c/f too much flops so a big part of your profit will
come from raising and taking down the pot with a cbet. I know
these spots are all pretty close but checking back when you think
you have showdown is just not the way to win most pots and
only really passive villains like this will not exploit this. Especially
on a board like this it's not unthinkable villain folds better (A-rag,
maybe even bottom pair given our lack of cbetting which he
couldve picked up) and calls worse (hands like his, one livecard
+ fd or something). We will also be able to bluff some cards later
on when he calls, or bluffcatch when the turn bricks and river is
an offsuit K/Q and he leads out, or improve by hitting one of our
(likely) 4 outs (something else to consider when cbetting:
improving or being able to bluff on a later street and win a bigger
pot).
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Hand #31
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Hand #32
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Hand #33
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Flop: (t1960) K T Q
Turn: (t1960) T
River: (t1960) T
Pretty close spot imo. Don't see too much fold equity but we
barely need any. I expect to see a lot of A-rag and small pocket
pairs in his range here, but also like any two broadways and
given that this is almost never AQ+/QQ+ shoving is super std
and we either flip (pocket pairs), little behind (Ax), or big fave
(broadwayz).
Hand #1
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Preflop: looks fine, in general, random fish call raises when they
limp, especially when there's a decent amount of stack behind,
and while 76s flops well (you even got blue cards holla!), you
should probably try and just raise for value, no matter how wide
that is. Early on it's kind of hard to determine where the line is
between raising for value/(semi-)bluff OOP preflop, because
villain could be limp/calling hands like A5/KT/33 in which case
raising a hand like JTs isn't really that much of a valueraise
(though JTs plays way easier than most of his weaker hands
obv) so don't overdo it at first untill you have a grasp of villain's
limpingrange after a couple of buttons have passed.
Turn: okay, great card, about as good as it gets I'd say. I'm kind
of in between with checking or leading out here. Two flushdraws,
a bunch of straightdraws... I think leading definitly has its merits
here because in general people will be checking back draws or
even Qx because a card pairing the board is just a bad card to
barrel (not all fish realize this but whatever) and they're afraid of
getting checkraised. So yeah, early on, without notes he would
fire again, i think leading for like 80 is something I'd definitly
consider doing here. If you check, it's obvious to checkraise like
you did, size looks good too, I don't expect him to fold any
pair/draw really.
Something weird maybe: this is a spot where you could see
some sort of timing tell. If he called the turn really quickly,
chances are better he has a draw. If he thinks a bit before
calling, chances are better he has Qx; I wouldn't put too much
though into timing tells, because there can be plenty of reasons
you don't know which can affect them (him playing more tables,
being distracted at home, etc.) but something worth mentioning.
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Hand #3
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Especially the way the first hand played out, I'd like to know if he
would 2nd barrel again here. Doesn't matter that you c/c flop
8s9x4x once, and c/f to a bet on Kx turn. You can note that he's
quite aggro, maybe start flatting some big hands preflop oop, c/c
big hands on flop, maybe do something fancy like c/c Q73r flop
and checkraise Kx turn with air because you know he's just firing
to take down the pot.
Quote:
Hand #4
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I would probably open here, it's early, 2/2 buttons is too tight to
fold.
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Hand #8
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Hero (BTN/SB): t1695 M = 56.50
BB: t1305 M = 43.50
Given it's the first hand you raised, I would just cbet here and be
done with the hand (unless you catch a K of course). Villain
seems to be somewhat aggro before so if we check back flop I
expect him to fire 100% of turns tbh (kind of think it's strange he
didn't do it here, especially with his hand, though we shouldn't be
results oriented ). If the board was more coordinated, like 987 i
might consider checking back, but here, you can just cbet. If he
defends wide enough, cbetting half pot will definitly show a profit.
You can even try and bluffcatch, if the turn is like 3x and river 8x
and he bets river you have a fairly ez call against missed
gutshots I think. I think not cbetting means you're going to lose
the pot around 80% of the time by estimation (with the 20%
being you hitting K on turn or villain checking down a worse
hand).
Hand #9
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BUT HE DIDN'T, HAH! Okay, he didn't bet flop, weird, smells like
some weak showdown if you ask me. That's why I would bet turn
tbh, try and make him fold hands like Q5o, which are a big
portion of his range. Don't bet too big or too small (1bb will get
floated even by those hands i mentioned), but like 25 or 30 and
you will take it down a lot here.
Quote:
Hand #10
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Cbet size looks a little big, especially on a board where it's kind
of hard to hit anything (mostly he'll have two inbetweencards to
the Q and the 4) so betting like 40 would do the trick as well. It's
your first cbet, try to get some reads on how he reacts to them;
try cbetting a little bit more frequently and a little smaller I'd say
and see what he does. Some people love minraising them, some
people love mashing the pot button, some will float superwide
(with like J9ss on a board like this for example). Once we know
how he plays, we can adjust the frequency/size again to max
profit.
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Hand #11
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Flop I'm kind of in between, given how he didnt bet his 9-high
last time on a somewhat similar board (A-high no flushdraw) I
wouldnt be surprised if he checked back again here with total air.
I wouldn't lead either because it's really hard for a marginal
range of hands to have hit a piece here expect the 4 or a
gutshotwheeldraw maybe. So my plan would be to check the flop
(and call if he bets) and bet the turn myself if he checks back
(unless the board pairs with the K or the 4 probably). The 8 is
quite a good card to bet 30 or something on, there's a flushdraw
no, some hands picked up a gutshot, and there's definitly 8x
hands in his range and they're not gonna be folding to a 1.5bb
bet. I don't see a lot of point in checking again, there's definitly
value to be gained here and he has shown to not bluff in limped
pots all the time. Only thing you can hope for is that he catches a
pair on river with his air and he pays you off, though you can go
for 2 streets vs a decent amount of hands here.
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Hand #12
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Board: 9c 7d 3s
Dead:
Board: 9c 7d 3s
Dead:
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Hand #13
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Okay, it's his first raise to 3bb's and he had 7 buttons so far. I
don't mind a fold here tbh with the A6o. Sounds a bit nitty but
either:
- his raising range is stronger for 3bb's
- he's getting a little frustrated with you pushing him around in a
lot of medium-big pots
Just let him have this pot, no need to win them all. If he starts 3x-
ing more and more we'll just assume he changed his
openingsize.
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Hand #14
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Cbet little less, let him open his bluff/floatingrange by just betting
2bb's imo. Board is really dry, he'll have no hit way over 50% of
the time here.
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Hand #15
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Hero (BB): t1975 M = 65.83
BTN/SB: t1025 M = 34.17
Okay, with 51bb's left, 3betting is definitly the best option here
with AA. If you only had like 30bb's you could flat pre and hope
he catches a piece of the board and checkraise and you could
still easily get it in on turn. However, if you want to play a big pot
here, I would surely 3bet. Size looks fine as well, doesn't need to
be bigger because we obv want him to come along with as much
crap as humanly possible.
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Hand #17
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Hero (BB): t2035 M = 67.83
BTN/SB: t965 M = 32.17
I like the way you played this. I was talking about this hand in
msn convo and some people said "lead turn" but I wouldn't do it
tbh. Thing is, Ax is definitly in his range for checking back flop (a
lot of people check back showdown value, whether fish or bad
reg, afraid of getting bluffed of their hand without any real reason
to); and even if he just has nothing, but didnt want to cbet, he will
probably try and represent the A anyway because you check
twice (and with us having a flushdraw, a hand like Q6dd has like
4 outs so we shouldn't be afraid to get outdrawn). So yeah c/c
flop c/c turn obv. River looks like a fold with this line, if he has
any piece of showdown he's gonna take it and I don't see too
much hands he could be bluffing with here that don't bet
flop/turn.
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Hand #19
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Hand #20
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Again, open. A lot of your profit vs fish will come from the fact
that they defend way too wide and will play fit/fold which means
they'll give up too much pots. Idk what your reasoning is to open
as little buttons as you do (I know, you're not getting any semi-
decent hands or anything, but still, 85o isn't 92o), just raise,
expect a call, and expect a c/f on flop A LOT. And if he c/c's, you
can still bluff some good scarecards or improve etc.
Quote:
Hand #21
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Aparently the 3bb raise was a one time thing. Still couldve been
both frustration or big hand.
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Hand #22
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Hand #24
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Wow, now you're folding 85s on button. You really need to open
your game a bit. I think you're underestimating how much of your
profit comes from cbetting/raising your button.
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Hand #25
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Hmmz, I think I'd raise here preflop. So far you checked each
time and even fish notice stuff like that. Whether he still calls or
not is a question, but he won't float you nearly as light as if you
were to raise first hand or multiple hands in a row oop. Given
that he raises his button frequently, I don't think he limps Ax
hands or anything so the raise would be purely for value (we
don't know if he would call but that's okay, his range consists of
probably 0 hands which have us beat right now) and K7o may
not be the easiest hand to play oop, but still decent enough + we
have initiative. Just make it like 100 or something; cbet a lot of
boards, profit. Especially a board like this, fire a barrel, expect to
pick it up A LOT.
If you check pre c/f'ing at this point of match vs this guy is fine
obv.
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Hand #26
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Haha, now you open 84o, sweet. ^^ Hand looks fine, well played.
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Hand #27
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Hand #29
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Flop cbet looks fine, OOP I don't mind a bit bigger than half pot
(if he's a fish you can go half pot with strong hands to induce
floats from random air and bit bigger to avoid those floats).
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Hand #35
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Ehm, yeah flop check looks great. We don't have anything yet
and our highcard is crushing most of his limping range so I see
no real reason to bet either flop or turn. Just c/c and hope to hit.
Fwiw, river looks nasty. Either bet small or check; maybe jam,
but your size is what I would never do tbh. Thing is he will only
call you with Jx or flushes like this, right? If you bet this size he's
calling a jam only slightly smaller percentage of the time with Jx.
If you bet small you might get called by Kx/Ax if he happens to
have that. If you check his air will bluff at it and Jx will be betting
and probably calling a raise.
I think I'd bet like 60, hoping to get called by any pair, and being
raised by a straight.
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Hand #37
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Given that you won most previous pots, I don't mind a c/f here
flop onwards. If gameflow allowed you can try and stab the flop
for 45 or something hoping to pick up the pot because the board
is really dry.
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Yiha!
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Kind of a weird hand. Again, same with the K7, I wouldnt mind a
raise preflop just to pick up a slightly bigger pot by cbetting most
board textures. A8 will have some percentage of his limp/calling
range crushed (8x hands are definitly in his range).
I don't mind a checkdown though I'd try and take a stab if you
have air next time in limped pot.
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Hand #42
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Hand #43
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We both know you're not representing much here, but if he's bad
he won't even notice that. I think this is your first checkraise on
the flop though I could be wrong so he's going to give you at
least some credit. It's not the first time he bets 90 into 120 so it's
not like he's more likely to have hit a piece with that size.
I do think your checkraise is on the big side though, This will just
not hit him often enough to worry about getting called/jammed
on, really. If he has a Q he's not going to fold it anyway,
regardless of your size imo. Just make it as cheap as possible
for yourself, I think like 195-245 or something would definitly give
the same effect and will leave you with more chips when he
actually has a hand.
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Hand #46
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Hand #47
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Okay, 4th time. Ugh, weird spot tbh with these stacksizes. I
agree to call preflop given that he started doing it more and more
(if he didn't 3x his last button I think folding pre would be best
move on paper though I'd still call ingame because it's suited ).
Flop... Well, with these stacksizes I don't really see any other
options. Gutshot + overs + backdoor flushdraw. I'd expect him to
check back Ax hands a decent percentage of the time though.
Math says if we got around 33% equity we only need him to fold
around 50% of the time which is definitly the case. You haven't
been out of line yet or anything, and it's a rainbow board so I
don't see him calling with A-high yet. Note that him calling with
hands like A-high/JT/low pocket pairs isn't really that bad of a
thing because our equity will just go up (we're around 50% vs
underpairs fwiw).
Ehm, 50% fold equity we need, something like that. Makes me
think floating flop is about just as good. It's a really close spot I
think, especially if we assign him a little stronger range because
his raise size pre I would just say float flop I guess, try to pick up
something on turn. Like if turn is a low heart you can check/jam
there because he will probably barrel (he barrels a lot when he
starts we saw). Flip a coin, both look fine to me.
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Yeah I don't mind a fold after winning big pot. I wouldn't mind a
limp here either, just to see what he does vs them. I expect him
to be semi-passive against them preflop but will randomly stab at
the pot postflop.
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Hand #49
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Hand #51
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Wow weird line you're taking here. I don't get what you're trying
to do here. Given that he checked back flop he probably doesn't
have a big hand, weak pair, some overcard(s) or a weak draw
perhaps. So, at turn, we beat ZERO of those hands basically, but
we do have some equity but it would suck if it got checked down
and he had like AQ. Why? Because we could've bet him off that
hand obv. I think it's a GREAT board to lead turn and lead most
rivers. Thing is, there's two onecardopenenders here: 5x and 8x.
And those will be calling a turnbet from around 95 almost always,
and fold river lead unimproved. On this board, at this point, you
beat like 10% of all possible startinghands or something. You
really have a nutlow type of hand, so making him fold any hand
at this point is really valuable. Just lead out, expect to take it
down a lot on the turn, if not on the river. Don't expect him to bet
turn too often though, he's gonna check back most of his
showdown range here and river goes check/check at a brick and
you lose to A-high or something.
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Hand #52
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Hand #53
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Yeah I might stab here at the flop, can go either way. If i bet i'd
bet like 55 or something.
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Hand #57
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Like I said, he probably just fires when he fires, not realizing the
river is about the ****tiest card in the deck to fire at once he
checked the flop. Vs a good player I'd probably fold river here
but vs this guy it's pretty much a snapcall. He could have like 8x
yeah, but total air or missed draws are definitly in his range. I
don't mind a flopcheck here because we have some backdoor
straights. I would lead more often if i had like 94o here but I'd mix
it up between the two anyway.
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Hand #58
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Hand #59
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Wow, I don't even think this is profitable vs this guy. He's not
opening wide enough it appears to be shoving here. Remember,
you're like 36.5bb's deep and if he folds you only pick up like
3bb's. Given that he limps a decent amount of hands you need
him to fold here a ton and I think your hand is like the cutoff for a
sane person's callingrange here. Like AT he might fold, but AJ+
is probably calling as well as 55+.
I'd just flat or make a normal 3bet (though I'd fold vs a 4betshove
vs this guy tbh so I prefer flatting a bit more because I don't see
him spazzshove a lot worse and our odds won't be that good to
call a shove with). He seems to fire brainless postflop, flat, let
him fire when you hit, bluff some if you don't, ez game.
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Hand #60
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Hand #62
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Flop: (t2760) 5 4 K
Turn: (t2760) 5
River: (t2760) A
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Hand #2
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Interesting hand from the start. Ehm, I'll assume this a random
opponent right? His donkbet could mean anything here obv, from
total air to small pocket pairs to 2x or A-high really. I really like
your smallish raise on the flop fwiw. Reason for this is that fish in
general will call here with hands like JTo to try and hit their "top
two" if you make it small enough. Also, 2x or small pocket pairs
might jam over it for protection which is obv a nice added effect.
Even though his range will include a lot of air, in which case we
should be flatting, the board texture just screams out for a small
raise because a ton of his air will be floating.
Okay, now that we got to turn like this (which is fine as well obv),
either jam or flat again? After we call, the pot will be 1840 with
560 behind. His range still includes a lot of air if you ask me, and
even after you flatted flop he still barreled turn, so I'd just flat
again here after calling flop I think. I think he's jamming river
anyway, whether he has a missed draw or hits (either a better or
2nd best hand) and also a decent amount of total bluffs on river
he'll be jamming if you ask me. You might find a case for
jamming since he's committed with his flushdraws anyway, and
you could say that he won't always jam them on river when he
missed, but giving his line, I don't think he sees any action as
particular strong so let's just let him barrel!
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Hand #3
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Hand #4
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Flop: (t1240) 2 A T
Turn: (t1240) 5
River: (t1240) 9
Interesting spot. I guess the reason you called is that you think
he's still a bit on tilt from hand 2. Notice however, that in hand 3,
he just minraised his button liked he did before. No 3x or 4x or
bigger or openjam, he just kept playing normally. To begin with I
wouldn't even open to 3x here in which case you wouldve had an
easy fold if you ask me, but stacks are 31bb's so I would just
drop it to minraising in general for reason stated in other hh
reviews before).
We need 44.44% equity to call in this spot, let's see how we do
vs a bad range for us:
41.31% equity we have. Not enough clearly, and tbh, this is what
I think the biggest part of his range exists of.
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Hand #9
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K cool, looks fine. Obv nothing else we can do on this board. Not
a fan of leading and trying to bluffcatch on later streets with A-
high yet. Just take a note on his cbet sizing on this type of board
(for future purposes).
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Hand #12
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Preflop is fine but WOW, wtf are you doing on flop hah. You've
seen him spazz out before when you raised his potlead. Also,
this board is SUPERdrawy, in which case there's so much more
value to be had from any piece of the board by just raising it up
to 300-360 (I'd go around 350 tbh because his range will
probably include more draws than total air).
Turnjam seems fine with these stacksizes, though I'd just raise
flop and get it in on any turn (except maybe a jack) tbh.
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Hand #13
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I probably defend here and try and get some more postflop reads
on him oop though again, it's pretty much bottom of my range.
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Hand #14
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Sick spot. Third time he leads pot though, however, I really like
your fold here. Point is that we're only barely beating a random
range of hands, and we can't stand any heat on almost no
turncards save a few. Especially this shallow, nothing much
more to do. We're flipping against any club basically, any 8x has
us crushed and we're not doing good either against gutter + club
hands either. Nh imo.
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Hand #15
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Hero (BB): t2260 M = 75.33
BTN/SB: t740 M = 24.67
Same as before with the A2o, not really the board we want to
have action on, esp not vs a potbet, and even less so because
our gutter makes a better onecardstraight on the board.
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Hand #16
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Yah, from this point on, I wouldn't open too much since he's quite
aggro oop without having the preflop initiative.
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Hand #17
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Hero (BB): t2210 M = 73.67
BTN/SB: t790 M = 26.33
I would most likely lead here. His limping range is probably weak
and aimed at cards 8 or lower so a lot of value to be had from
weaker pairs or gutters or maybe both but we're in good shape
vs his range if you ask me. I'd bet t30 here.
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Hand #18
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Hand #19
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I'd checkraise and get this in for 40bb's tbh. I know the board
isn't drawheavy, but if you checkraise to t200 expect to get
floated by random overcard(s) or even cards between the 6 and
the J (or spazz 3bets like he did before from total air?). Also,
don't think 6x or pocket pairs < JJ are folding when you
checkraise the flop.
If you opt to c/c flop then river looks fine, nh. (I guess you c/c flop
because you figure he's going to keep betting at it, however, we
never been into a spot like this before in a raised pot so we have
no reason to believe he will continu betting, especially against
our pair of jacks which is still kind of vulnerable atm with us not
having an overcard blocker.)
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Hand #20
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Hand #21
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Preflop is close, with the 56s giving how he loves the potbutton.
It's gonna be checkraise all-in a lot of the time once we flop
some sort of draw, just a reminder.
I wouldnt mind leading this flop smallish (t90) and bet a lot of
turns (or checkraise all-in since he's likely to stab and a good
turn falls of) to avoid just c/f'ing to his potbets all the time.
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Hand #22
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Hand #26
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I'm seriously in doubt whether to just cbet and pick up the pot, or
let him bluff, though I think i'm a little results oriented here. I don't
mind how you played it and would fold river as well. Also notice
how he hasn't 3bet us before so his flattingrange isnt necessarily
that weak, he can easily flat AK-AT or 2 broadwaycards
combinations as far as we know. Besides, our hand isn't THAT
vulnerable so giving a free card isn't that betting.
His river jam is a bit weird and he can still have all sorts of hands
here so I sincerely doubt you have odds to call here. Nh imo.
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Hand #30
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Bleh, stupid spot, he bet big with 2nd pair before and I doubt he's
folding it so yeah... Nh, nothing you can do really against this
opponent.
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Hand #31
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Hah, I'll leave this open for now and would appreciate your
thoughts on the 1bb bet. I think it's kind of interesting spot/line,
will discuss this once you replied.
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Hand #32
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Hand #33
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Why are you bluffraising here to then c/f on one of the best cards
for you? I don't get the point in bluffraising too much vs an
opponent like this in the first place, let alone on a board like this
with your sizing. Pretty sure he'll float hands like KT, any pair,
any gutter/OE and maybe even more bull**** hands and he'll
take it away on pretty much all turns except an ace. If you're
raising to get value from his draws/floats, then I don't see how
you can c/f this turn.
Just wait for hands to either bluffcatch him, or valuetown him big
when you have a hand that can stand heat.
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Hand #34
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I would again just fold here. You have some more outs than the
66 hand if you're behind obv, but again, he didn't donk 93o and
on this board, you'll hate all turncards really apart from maybe
20% from the deck. How comfortable would you be calling down
on 9/T/J/K turns when he bets again? Once he bets, he doesn't
seem to stop so far it seems, unless he has showdown value
(notice the J9o hand against his middle pair that turned 3rd
pair?).
Quote:
Hand #35
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Hand #36
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Hand #37
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Hand #38
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I don't think I would flat flop here tbh. Seems like a spot that'll get
you in trouble a lot on turn since he'll be betting big again. Also,
with these stacksizes, I wouldnt expect a lot of fold equity on
turn, especially not a turn like this (it really surprised me that he
folded on this specific turn fwiw).
Just jam flop if you ask me, 480 in the pot after you call and you
only have 2 potbets left. His range is big enough to have enough
fold equity to make it ev+. Also, if he decides to call it off with a
straightdraw, we're in pretty good shape since we have blockers
for hands like 97/96/76/A3/A4/43.
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Hand #39
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Quote:
Hand #40
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Hand #41
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Hero (BB): t1795 M = 29.92
BTN/SB: t1205 M = 20.08
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Hand #42
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Bleh, pre and flop are std obv. Turn I might be inclined to bet for
really thin value since he doesn't seem to have a lot and pretty
sure he doesn't fold pair + gutter and his preflop range is HUGE
from the 93o hand so he could have T3o or J3o or anything Tx or
Jx here really. Let alone 9x who will probably pay you off itself...
Not trying to be results oriented, but it also prevents you from
calling a bigger riverbet. I say thin value because we don't beat
QJT pick 2 with our kicker and it's an easy fold if getting
checkraised.
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Hand #43
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Hand #44
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Hero (BTN/SB): t1235 M = 20.58
BB: t1765 M = 29.42
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Hand #45
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Quote:
Hand #46
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Hand #47
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Hero (BB): t1935 M = 32.25
BTN/SB: t1065 M = 17.75
Yeah no need to get super fancy here against a guy that's aggro
and isn't folding.
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Hand #48
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Quote:
Hand #49
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Quote:
Hand #50
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[/quote]
Hand #51
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Quote:
Hand #52
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Quote:
Hand #53
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Turn is def a lead for value, I wouldn't mind making it a bit bigger
for value since his callingrange will be pretty much the same.
River seems fine since clubs missed and if we bet again I don't
know how much he's calling with 3x or 5x for that matter or if he's
capable of raising 2 pair hands for example, so nh.
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Hand #54
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Weird hand by him LOL haha. I don't mind how you played it tbh,
like < 30bb's I guess you can just jam over his minraise if you're
not comfortable playing this oop postflop (which is fine against
this opponent). His checking back is really lol though. =D
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Hand #55
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Hand #56
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Hand #57
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Quote:
Hand #58
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Quote:
Hand #59
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Hand #62
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Yeah std push here though I expect him to call somewhat wider
than nash.
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Hand #63
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Yeah he's been minraising all hands so far so you should have
enough fold equity to make this ev+, nh.
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Hand #64
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Hand #67
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Flop: (t1150) J 7 Q
Turn: (t1150) 7
River: (t1150) 5
I might flat here or make a small 3bet; doesn't look this opponent
will notice this and exploit it. Think flatting is fine tbh and leading
small on a ton of flops or just checking. Doesn't really matter
how/where you get the money in really, just a minor ev-
difference if you ask me.
Yeah cool, well played. Might check flop since he will stab turn
and we're not afraid of any turncard really, even though we have
no hearts at all.
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Hand #72
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Hero (BTN/SB): t1200 M = 16
BB: t1800 M = 24
Close, but probably okay and way better than raising 35s
though; obv flop is a fold.
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Hand #73
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Flop: (t2200) J 5 6
Turn: (t2200) 4
River: (t2200) 8
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Hand #74
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Wow, why on earth are you limping? He's pretty loose pre
(defended 93o, remember?) and been potting into you without
preflop initiative anyway so why not raise and let him fire 200 on
the flop and either call or jam over it? I see like ZERO reasons to
limp preflop, especially because you jammed over a minraise
prior hand so if anything, I'd expect him to jam over it wider than
usualy himself.
Also, not being results oriented here, but do you really think he's
gonna be 3x'ing that much oop with garbage with these
stacksizes? Seems that it's more likely of him flatting and betting
200 on flop into you which is like 250 extra chips he puts in the
pot instead of 100.
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Hand #75
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Hand #76
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Hand #79
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Might jam here shallower but he called KTs so don't think it's ev+
for 30bb's stacks really and calling oop doesn't seem like the
best idea here either.
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Hand #82
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Nh, well played. Limping seems fine, he's not aggro against
them. Turn is an obv jam, he won't have an A all that often and
will fold 3rd or 4th pair enough.
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Hand #83
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180 in the pot we can take right there; let's say his callingrange
is perfect (which isn't the case obv, since he's either folding K7-
type hands or also calling QJT pick 2 type hands, but for the
sake of education...):
equity win tie pots won pots tied
Hand 0: 33.859% 32.19% 01.66% 2070590724 106993152.00 {
K6o }
Hand 1: 66.141% 64.48% 01.66% 4146836796 106993152.00 {
22+, A2s+, K7s, A2o+, K7o+ }
Quote:
Hand #84
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I probably bet the flop here to protect our equity since he's not
the checkraise type of guy and we still have an over and some
backdoor straights and overcard if we get called. Also, he
defends wide and donks wide, so we need to bet here if you ask
me, just to take down the pot. Sucks if he c/c's and pots turn or
smth but we really have nothing anyway and he'll fold often
enough for a t135 cbet to be profitable.
Quote:
Hand #85
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Both flatting and jamming pre look fine, more a fan of flatting
since K8s flops semi-decently and he's putting more money in
postflop anyway.
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Hand #86
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Hand #87
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Hero (BB): t1265 M = 14.06
BTN/SB: t1735 M = 19.28
=(
superuser obv
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Hand #88
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Quote:
Hand #89
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Quote:
Hand #90
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Quote:
Hand #91
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Quote:
Hand #93
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Quote:
Hand #94
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Quote:
Hand #95
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Quote:
Hand #96
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Quote:
Hand #97
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Hand #98
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Flop: (t2690) 2 9 6
Turn: (t2690) 9
River: (t2690) 6
Wow, ehm, why on earth did you jam here? Apart from the 2x
click it back, this is the first time he 3bet. You think he tries to
look strong after folding so many hands? Call > fold > jam here
imo, ainec. Doubt he 3bet/folds hands like A-rag if he decides to
3bet them anyway, also not KJ/KQ so you're pretty much in a
sucky spot.
Just heard that villain WAS indead sitting out for a number of
hands (now I get the T2o raise), in which case call = jam > fold
imo. Thing with flatting is that we flop reasonably good (mostly
toppairs or 2nd pairs or strong draws) and he's almost always
leading out if wwe hit if you ask me. Think it's pretty close but
you have enough behind to not have to jam here I think, though
picking up the dead money is fine again. Think you can do both,
flatting or jamming. If this is his first hand back, I agree that
jamming is obv ev+ as well.
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Hand #99
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Hand #100
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Flop: (t500) Q J 7
Turn: (t500) K
River: (t500) 2
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Hand #101
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Flop: (t1000) A 7 J
Turn: (t1000) T
River: (t1000) 3
Quote:
Hand #102
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How can you NOT bet the flop? Even if it's just protecting your
equity when he has worse? He'll donk turn A BUNCH if you ask
me and unless you plan on jamming over a turn potbet (which I
think is too much of an overbet), just bet flop! This guy is actually
capable of checkraising and folding to your jam so plz plz bet
flop here.
Quote:
Hand #103
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Standard obv.
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Hand #104
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Quote:
Hand #105
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Quote:
Hand #106
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Quote:
Hand #107
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Hand #108
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Flop: (t1340) 3 4 9
Turn: (t1340) 8
River: (t1340) J
Quote:
Hand #110
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Ehm, not THAT big a fan of preflop really. I'd probably limp,
would be inclined to openjam A6o though suited is obv a ton
better but minraising seems fine.
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Hand #1
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BB: t1500 M = 50
Hero (BTN/SB): t1500 M = 50
Pretty nitty fold if you ask me lol. I'd just open most buttons really
with anything semi-connected or suited (you can still flop a
straight with this) because a lot of your profit will come from bad
players call too much oop and play face-up post.
Quote:
Hand #2
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Hmmm, every chip counts really, and I don't think that a bet of
t40 will get more folds than a bet of t30 really. Especially since
I've been playing more superturbo's lately, I type a lot of
betsizing (esp in limped pots where otherwise you're forced to do
half pot or full pot). If you think you can get more Ax or Kx hands
to fold by betting pot, by all means do so, but I think t30 will do
the same trick (and might also let him call a dominated draw like
86o) because he's never folding two pair/trips anyway.
Quote:
Hand #3
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BB: t1490 M = 49.67
Hero (BTN/SB): t1510 M = 50.33
Std open obv, although A6o cant flop straights nor flushes.
Quote:
Hand #4
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BTN/SB: t1470 M = 49
Hero (BB): t1530 M = 51
Quote:
Hand #5
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BB: t1490 M = 49.67
Hero (BTN/SB): t1510 M = 50.33
Quote:
Hand #6
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BTN/SB: t1470 M = 49
Hero (BB): t1530 M = 51
Anyway, this is a spot where I don't mind leading for full pot.
Regardless of your betsize, villain will likely call with a huge
range anway and that range will not be dependant of your size
that much. Turnbet seems a little bit low fwiw, I'd rather do 80 or
even 100 tbh and get max value from all the draws.
Quote:
Hand #7
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BB: t1410 M = 47
Hero (BTN/SB): t1590 M = 53
Quote:
Hand #8
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Hand #9
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BB: t1590 M = 53
Hero (BTN/SB): t1410 M = 47
Hmmm weird, third time he overbet pot now (while you're playing
on ftp which means there's a potbutton present). Preflop obv
standard, not to sure about flop.
If there was a club on board it's obv better to float than now;
about random tendencies... ehm I think most of the time this is
actually a piece of the board, though not always. If randoms
don't have a piece here, but overbet it anyway, they usually give
up after flop in my experience; if they do have a piece, they're
firing all blank turns. So yeah, just pitch it now, we'll see later.
Quote:
Hand #10
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BTN/SB: t1650 M = 55
Hero (BB): t1350 M = 45
Ehm, I'd probably lead turn here for t20 or t30 and have him
bluffcatch all his highcard hands and/or gutshots and stuff. It also
protects our equity if he never stabs at pot on turn for example
when we check to him since pretty much all hands have 9 outs
with the board being single paired already.
Quote:
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Hand #12
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Hand #14
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I wouldn't mind a flop stab here tbh for t30 or something, since
he doesn't seem to be stabbing himself and he raised couple of
buttons before (which makes it more likely that he's raising his
good hands and limping mediocre/bad/monsterhands) and it's
not a board you get a lot of floats on really since undercards
don't want to take it away later.
Turn is too late too stab with your hand I feel, since you'll get
called by a lot of draws/pairs and you'd have to know some
rivertendencies from him I guess to know what your bestline is
on what rivers.
But checking down and giving up is not bad either, just note that
he didnt bet his Qx.
Quote:
Hand #15
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Quote:
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Quote:
Hand #17
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Quote:
Hand #18
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Quote:
Hand #19
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Yeah I would just give up on that flop. Cbetting air here has to do
with how much of the time you think villain defends A-rag/K-rag
and more importantly Q-rag and J-rag. If you think this is enough
of the time, then by all means, cbet this board because they wont
be spazzing a lot here to try and get you off your hand on a
board like this with total air. However, since villain been
somewhat nitty against our 3x opens, I'd just give up (peeling
turn getting ridic good price is okay though still closer than you
might think, especially since he might overbet river).
Quote:
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Nh, bit weird betsizing on flop though. Would just make it t80 tbh.
Quote:
Hand #21
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Nh, note that you should fire turn and/or river a lot depending on
cards that come since villains love floating 2 overs here or just A-
high (also we have LOTS of backdoors so betting our equity will
never hurt on turn).
Quote:
Hand #22
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BTN/SB: t1460 M = 48.67
Hero (BB): t1540 M = 51.33
Quote:
Hand #23
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Std obv, just note that he seems to play somewhat nitty and fit or
fold which means our A9 fold on the KT9r flop was pretty good
since it's way more likely he just had a hand.
Note that this doesn't mean he can't start spazzing if you take
down too much pots with just cbetting however.
Quote:
Hand #24
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BTN/SB: t1420 M = 47.33
Hero (BB): t1580 M = 52.67
Wowow. How did you not raise here pre? Only hand we've seen
him limp before in showdown was Q5o and he limp/called 1/1 so
far so - while this isn't 100% sure obv - there's so much value in
raising here and unlikely he has us in bad shape really. Just
raise preflop, make it t80 or something and have him call with A
LOT of dominated hands. If you're scared that he won't call
dominated holdings too much, just make it 3bb's (which I doubt,
but just talking about other players than this villain fwiw).
Quote:
Hand #25
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Might open a bit more again now, since he just seems to bet
when he has something and our cbets will take away pots a lot,
though 52o is agreed too weak.
Quote:
Hand #26
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BTN/SB: t1410 M = 47
Hero (BB): t1590 M = 53
Quote:
Hand #27
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Quote:
Hand #28
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BTN/SB: t1440 M = 48
Hero (BB): t1560 M = 52
Quote:
Hand #29
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Looks like he has a big hand; I'm not a huge fan of folding vs
3bets but 97o is definitly too weak to play vs this opponent.
Quote:
Hand #30
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Heh, he started again lol. With his frequency, I guess he just has
a hand whenever he does this until proven otherwise (whether
this hand is AA/22/AQ/... doesn't matter atm really).
Quote:
Hand #31
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Quote:
Hand #32
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BTN/SB: t1525 M = 33.89
Hero (BB): t1475 M = 32.78
Quote:
Hand #33
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Quote:
Hand #34
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BTN/SB: t1420 M = 31.56
Hero (BB): t1580 M = 35.11
Most really agreed that AQo is a bit too strong to just flat here
even though we assume that all his big bets are in general big(-
ish) hands. Reason for still 3betting is that a player like villain,
will not fold a dominated hand like Ax or KQ/QJ/QT. Reason for
this is that "bad nits" (or whatever you put people like this in a
category) just can't fold a hand, even though their range is pretty
strong, ergo your range is even stronger, but they just don't
realize it and have a good hand themselves so wtf! Villain must
be bluffing here! (they think)
Okay, 3betsizing then. Ehm, you can do a lot of things with this
really (just to make clear, once we 3bet we're never ever folding
to a jam).
I wouldn't even mind just a jam here; he's a bad nit it seems,
once they have a piece of a hand they go with it. Whether it's 77
or AT doesn't matter, they usually just look at their own cards
and that's it.
If you just want to make it smaller, 500/jam any flop basically is
an okay strat and will get calls preflop and folds post a ton
(c/f'ing some "worst flops" obv like K98hhh or smth I guess).
Other size would be like 300 and then still have a little
manoeuvrability postflop with 600 in the pot and almost 2 potbets
left. I wouldn't make it 400 or smth fwiw, because then we have
like 1.25 potbets left which sucks on a decent amount of boards
where we're not happy bet/calling it off but c/f'ing sucks about as
much.
I think I prefer the 300 fwiw though all options look close (with
just jamming being the easy way out but probably least ev+).
If you decide to flat pre, then c/f looks like only option here
against potbet. Surely he might have AJ/AT/KQ once in a while,
but against the rest of his range we're doing pretty poorly on this
bad flop.
Quote:
Hand #35
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Quote:
Hand #36
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Quote:
Hand #37
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Quote:
Hand #38
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Quote:
Hand #39
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Quote:
Hand #40
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Wow, checking again are we? Why now? Villain so far seemed
to play sooooooooo faceup postflop. I don't think he's the floating
type of guy from all the previous limped pots we had and you
stabbed/vbet, so wow, just raise man. His limpingrange also will
consist mainly of hands that have max 1 overcard here, and
given that he limp/called 1/1, just raise it up man and vbet him all
day on multiple streets.
Quote:
Hand #41
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Quote:
Hand #42
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Quote:
Hand #43
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Quote:
Hand #44
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Quote:
Hand #45
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Quote:
Hand #46
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Minbet turn here to protect equity and have him call some worse
hands (mainly one-card gutters who - if they have a broadway
with it - will call turn and check back river most of the time
anyway; given how he played so far, he might like call 64o on
turn and check back all rivers but 3x really).
Quote:
Hand #47
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Quote:
Hand #48
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Quote:
Hand #49
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How can you not cbet here? Pretty sure he donks pot with a K
here given how he did it on KT9r to "protect" his hand against
4flush or 4straight boards, same with two pair/set/low flushes
really, maybe even a strong 9. Also, don't forget, fish love suited
hands, so either he flopped a flush here or just has a hand that
can't stand much so just fire the flop and expect to pick up the
pot a lot vs this opponent.
Quote:
Hand #50
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Quote:
Hand #51
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Well, you get good boards to cbet fwiw, but std obv. =)
Quote:
Hand #52
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I don't mind betting either flop or turn here really. Reason I like
betting flop slightly better is because he can easily have 2
overcards to the 5 there (whether it's with a gutter or not doesn't
matter) and although he doesn't look like a floater, even they will
call with mere overs a decent amount of the time.
Also, if you want to build a pot against an opponent like this, it's
best if you do it early on when your hand is likely still good, not
when they caught up and start raising when they hit their
straight/flush. Pretty sure he calls with straightdraw (gutter or
OE) or flushdraw on flop, but will check them back most of the
time anyway. Same with weak Ax hands, medium pocket pairs or
Kx if that's in his range.
Quote:
Hand #53
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Quote:
Hand #54
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Std obv. Cutoff here for getting it in would be like AJ+ 77+ here
probably. 22-66 looks like a fold because his range can still
consist of smallish-mid pocket pairs and he's calling a jam with
those anyway if you ask me. AQ/AK/77-JJ i'd just jam i guess;
QQ+ normal 3bet; AJ doubt between flat or shove; flattingrange
would be like AT/KQ/KJ and the occassional AJ if i dont feel like
jamming.
Quote:
Hand #55
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Quote:
Hand #56
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Quote:
Hand #57
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Quote:
Hand #58
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Quote:
Hand #59
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Quote:
Hand #60
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Also, dont EVER flat here, if he would 4x. His range is strong,
dont let his overcards whiff the flop or pocket pair have multiple
overcards. He's stacking off most preflop (you might just want to
click it back or smth).
Quote:
Hand #61
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Weird hand really; after he checks both flop and turn, just stab it
imo. Not being results oriented, but his hand looks like what it is
really... He almost never has Ax here, mid pocket pair or KQJT
pick 2 at best if you ask me. If he has a club he might call but
then we take it away on river anyway; he'll fold so much of his
range here on turn once you bet, def best move to make.
Quote:
Hand #62
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Quote:
Hand #63
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Quote:
Hand #64
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I don't get it. You fold 32hh to a 3x while being 70bb's deep but
this you can defend you think? I'd just let this go, especially
because he doesnt raise buttons all too much to begin with. Also,
we're pretty shallow here and this hand just flops bottom pair or
middle pair way too much. If you think you can bluff him off a
hand he misses with, that's fine but:
1) we're too shallow to do this effectively imo
2) you might as well start defending almost ATC then imo
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Hand #65
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Bleh, I'd just minbet with your hand, these stacksizes and this
board really. Try to let him float with his no equity hands as much
as possible or let him spazz with them.
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Hand #66
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Quote:
Hand #67
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Quote:
Hand #1
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Quote:
Hand #3
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Quote:
Hand #4
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Hand #5
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Hero (BB): t1380 M = 30.67
BTN/SB: t1620 M = 36
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Hand #6
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Quote:
Hand #7
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Hero (BB): t1410 M = 31.33
BTN/SB: t1590 M = 35.33
Quote:
Hand #8
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Quote:
Hand #9
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Quote:
Hand #10
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Quote:
Hand #11
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Quote:
Hand #12
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Quote:
Hand #13
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Quote:
Hand #14
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Just cbet here as said before, his preflop range so far looks huge
and he doesn't seem to spazz a lot and we have absolutely no
showdown value.
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Hand #15
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Quote:
Hand #16
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Quote:
Hand #17
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Again, I probably defend here, but given that you had to show
your e-penis by putting pressure preflop in the first blindlevel,
again not going to be easy. =)
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Hand #18
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Hero (BTN/SB): t1320 M = 17.60
BB: t1680 M = 22.40
Just cbet and take it down a ton if you ask me. Once he calls flop
I'd just give up later streets.
Notice how he didn't jam this preflop but just defended and
checked it down with very little showdown on this board.
Quote:
Hand #19
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Quote:
Hand #20
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Quote:
Hand #21
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Quote:
Hand #22
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Booooooooo!
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Hand #23
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Weeeeeeee!
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Hand #24
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I don't mind your cbetsize too much because on a board like this
in general it doesn't really matter that much since he plays pretty
straightforward anyway. Watch out that he can spazz more often
or start bluffraising when you use this sizing.
Turn I wouldn't fire tbh, once he calls flop he's got a piece and is
unlikely folding turn. Just take your freecard with your medium
strong drawing hand if you ask me.
Also, note how you "sucked out" and that he may start playing
back a bit more now.
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Don't hate the fold really given the last hand but in general, I'd
keep minraising as much as possible untill we hit < 20bb's where
I might start mixing it up or smth.
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Looks fine. He doesn't look like the person who flaots Kx on this
flop too much really and I doub't he'll be calling 4th pair on river.
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Hand #29
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I'd defend here. For some reason you seem to be afraid to play
pots oop.
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Just minraise, T2o I fold but Q6o with a person unlikely to jam
over minraises is a definite raise here.
Quote:
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Again, defendaments.
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First 3bet of him, weird sizing with these stacksizes. 8-high never
good obv. It's suited though...
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Looks ev+, flatting probably isn't too bad either (given villain's
oop tendencies and his lack of cbetting 1/1 times, he looks like a
really fit/fold player in which case I think flatting pre might be
better but we have no idea about how accurate that is).
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Yah don't mind this. Easy solution since K6o doesn't flop THAT
well though he's really fit/fold/passive post so I wouldn't mind
MR/fold and cbet smallish if he flats.
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Hand #37
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Spitejam!
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Looks fine/best.
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Don't mind this since he doesn't seem too aggro before (apart
from the openjamming button but that's std for 95% of players)
and you'll be able to stab a lot postflop.
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Would probably bet more than 1bb; t100 just looks like a stab to
a lot of players, t110 for example will result in a decent amount
more fold equity compared to what we risk.
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Hand #59
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Flop: (t2230) 3 2 K
Turn: (t2230) T
River: (t2230) 9
Solid flop.
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Hand #60
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Flop: (t1540) 8 8 2
Turn: (t1540) J
River: (t1540) T
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Flop: (t2720) A 2 9
Turn: (t2720) 3
River: (t2720) 6
Nh, gg.
SPAMZ ' NINTH HAND HISTORY R EVIEW
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BB: t1500 M = 50
Hero (BTN/SB): t1500 M = 50
Hmmm, T5o is like bottom 25% of hands all-in equity wise. I'm
not saying you should open 75% or less but from playability
perspective T5o doesn't have much going really. I'd way rather
open 64o than T5o really. Hands I'd not open are pretty much
T2o-T5o, 92o-94o, etc.
Matt had 32cc in this spot and think is pretty std defend with
something that can flop pretty hidden monsters (especially since
he checkraised low paired boards 24/7 ). I wouldn't mind a
bluffcheckraise on this board since there's little unpaired hands
that maruchan can continu with and even 6x would be best to
just fold to flopcheckraise I guess (depending on
kicker/backdoorz/blockerz), though I obv wouldn't do it all the
time and starting out a bit slower till you have some more reads
is better.
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Pretty boring "I got a hand/I don't have a hand" spots so far. =)
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Matt checked the flop. Ehm, again, can go either way, I think he
can definitly lead flop here and fire pretty much all turns he can
think of because in general, people will call flop and fold turn a
bunch. Not a huge fan of doing this all the time with just 2 overs
and nothing else on a board like this, but this is a flop I donk with
a wide range and hands like KQJT pick 2 are definitly a slight
portion of my range.
Turn is pretty standard from both really, matt stabbing after fail of
cbetting which probably makes maruchan's range weaker and
will get folds from A-high a decent percentage of the time and he
could have best hand even. After you check flop you can't really
fold turn in maruchan's spot readless, so calling is correct as well
there.
River I think matt shouldve bet like t80 with his entire range if you
ask me. After maruchan checking back flop and calling turn his
range is like 5x 4x mainly, some hands like A3 maybe and some
Qx obv as well, and most of them will fold on river when you bet
smallish like t80 (which you can still vbet with Qx or strong 8x
against an unknown since I don't expect to get bluffraised
readless too often).
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BTN/SB: t1350 M = 45
Hero (BB): t1650 M = 55
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Matt had AQo here. Standard hand from both parts, though 63o
is pretty much the absolute bottom of my opening range.
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BTN/SB: t1410 M = 47
Hero (BB): t1590 M = 53
Like... in general, if you wanna bluff, just make sure you got
some sort of (backdoor) draw. Just total random crap ass bluffing
is way inferior to semi-bluffing with like as low as a gutshot or
backdoor flush + straightdraws.
Matt had T7o fwiw, std obv for him as well to cbet his toppair.
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BB: t1470 M = 49
Hero (BTN/SB): t1530 M = 51
Matt had 72o here, pretty sure I'd just fold that even though he
didn't get any hands so far. Just muck it, no reason to play this at
this point really vs someone who's not braindead/ultrabad.
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BB: t1470 M = 49
Hero (BTN/SB): t1530 M = 51
But yeah, std played from both sides, matt had A6o fwiw, sizing
looks fine as well.
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Ehm, if I were matt and had KJo with a club here, I probably float
because maruchan will most likely be betting J/K turn, also still
comfortable calling a turnbet when A falls because I expect
maruchan to bet that a lot and once we call there our hand looks
like Ax A TON so I doubt he's firing river as a bluff ever and we
will have best hand most of the time given maruchan opens fairly
wide on button so far.
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BTN/SB: t1530 M = 51
Hero (BB): t1470 M = 49
Looks fine. Wouldn't start getting fancy on a board like this. You'll
flop some equity (as low as gutshot again or like backdoor flush
or smth) often enough if you want to checkraise bluff here.
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BB: t1590 M = 53
Hero (BTN/SB): t1410 M = 47
Just dump this **** on button really. Matt had 53dd here and
don't mind the 3bet with these stacksizes though wouldn't mind a
flat at all either (don't mind 3bet since maruchan called 0/1 3bets
so far, small sample obv, but still).
Quote:
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I wouldn't mind a 3bet here though idk how much matt will 4bet
bluff given that our hand looks like a spite 3bet so meh, flatting
looks better. KJs also plays way more easily, rather 3bet KJo.
Matt had Q8o, and though it's not a bad board to bluffcheckraise
vs a non-spazzy ABC-player, I wouldn't start playing back yet
since maruchan doesn't really give any reason to do so.
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It's just that I see a lot of players checkraise bluff here with no
equity at all on certain boards, not even an overcard vs 2nd pair
for example. There's really no reason to do that, if your
frequency of bluffing equals the times you have SOME equity,
it's way better obv. Big difference between checkraising J T
on AQ3hh compared to 98ss for example, just realize this
(though with the straightdraws out there, I wouldn't advize it
here).
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BTN/SB: t1470 M = 49
Hero (BB): t1530 M = 51
86o is a bit loose but still good enough to defend imo. Especially
if you have no real reads postflop it's not standard for someone
to 2barrel/3barrel too much yet since he has no idea how
stationy we are so that's fine.
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BB: t1530 M = 51
Hero (BTN/SB): t1470 M = 49
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BTN/SB: t1650 M = 55
Hero (BB): t1350 M = 45
You fold 74o on button and raise 72o matt? roflcopter -hax
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BB: t1765 M = 39.22
Hero (BTN/SB): t1235 M = 27.44
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Interesting spot though, matt had K9o and decided to turn his
hand into a bluff on the river to fold out 2x or 3x. Sizing looks fine
since his range consists mostly of 7x and I expect him to
checkraise diamond or gutters most of the time so nice hand.
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You can opt to checkraise flop if you don't know his barreling
frequencies since all turn/rivers will suck pretty much and it's not
gonna be hard to bluff you off a 4 by the river in general (unless
in a spot like this where matt shouldn't be bluffing that much)
because if 2 different overcards come you're gonna have a hard
time bluffcatching and matt can valuebet/bluff quite a big range
obv.
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Matt had AK here, pretty sure I'd just make a normal 3bet here
with your hand since you don't have any push/fold history yet
(unless in previous games which I don't know about). Just make
it like 160-200 or something and prepare to get 4bet jammed on
a lot by dominated hands.
AK is also good enough to like bet/call almost any board when
maruchan would flat pre and pot is 360 with 560 behind or
something. I wouldn't mind a jam with 20bb's or less but 25bb's
is a bit much if you ask me.
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Always curious why people defend like 64o but then for 1bb
shallower stacks fold 75o. =)
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Matt had K3o here which I probably defend since it's not the
worst bluffcatcher on some boards that maruchan won't be firing
too much and we can still flop toppair with it and checkraise
some boards as total bluff so that maruchan is in a ****ty spot
regarding stacksizes.
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Flop I'd check yeah, turn is a definite lead and I like your sizing a
lot. Matt had A7o here and given that this board should smack
maruchan's range pretty hard I like the checkback/give up (and
bluffcatch some turns/rivers I guess or catch a 5outer to turn gin)
since even hands like Q9o have like 40% here on this board and
getting it in vs a checkraise is gonna be spew and you're gonna
get checkraised so much here so looks fine.
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Fwiw, maruchan, you should def cbet more. Don't go into auto-
checking back bottom or middle pair really, cbetting will pick up
the pot a lot really. If in this spot for example, matt checkraises,
I'd just jam with middle pair (esp with a blocker against hands
like 87). His checkraising will be a bluff enough % of the time to
3bet jam the flop I guess and if he has top pair so be it.
Matt had A2cc here, which I would've probably just jammed pre
given that maruchan opens almost all buttons (though I don't
mind flatting since it's suited really). Turn I probably c/f if I were
matt, again, somewhat similar board to 2 previous times with
lack of cbet but maruchan's range is pretty much middle/bottom
pair at this point and no need to try to bluff him off it on this turn
really given the boardstructure (and the fact that we will have
cards 7-J a lot more than 2-6 in our range).
Quote:
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BB: t1980 M = 33
Hero (BTN/SB): t1020 M = 17
I don't mind the float THAT much but the better your absolute
handstrength the better your float obv. Having KJ like I talked
about earlier will be way better for a couple of reasons.
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Matt had A9dd here and fwiw I really don't think he can cbet/fold
this flop. You only need 28% to breakeven for a cbet/call here.
Just look at this range which includes only toppair+ or flushdraws
and it's a range that's not too wide/tight.
Board: Jh 6s 4h
Dead:
15.5%, far from enough you think obv. However, just add like
one hand in, say KQ, and also 87s that he defends for example
and see how our equity shoots up:
Board: Jh 6s 4h
Dead:
over 27% already and this only includes one spazzhand that we
beat really. Especially with the cbetsize matt used I think this just
invites getting jammed on by maruchan's entire range so either
cbet/fold smaller (180-ish) or bet like this and then call a jam.
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Idk how you can fold here really. His frequency of 3betting so far
has been high enough imo so that we're definitly not always
dominated here (far from).
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BTN/SB: t1490 M = 24.83
Hero (BB): t1510 M = 25.17
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Obv 3bet but sizing looks a bit weird. 220 seemed to be standard
so far, I would probably just use the same sizing here.
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Hand #53
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Don't mind the bluff3bet too much really. I'd cbet slightly bigger
to give him more incentive to bluffjam (like 250-280 will get more
jams I think). Or maybe even just check in general, given that
you didn't cbet middle/bottom pair so far (though this is a 3bet
pot and obv a different spot, still...) I feel that matt will try and
bluff you off a weak pair often enough here.
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Hand #57
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BB: t1140 M = 19
Hero (BTN/SB): t1860 M = 31
Pre Flop: (t60) Hero is BTN/SB with 4 5
Hero raises to t80, BB calls t40
Quote:
Hand #58
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BB: t870 M = 14.50
Hero (BTN/SB): t2130 M = 35.50
Flop: (t1740) 6 5 K
Turn: (t1740) 8
River: (t1740) 9
Villain is yaqh from 2+2 for who I did a hh review before (though
I don't remember too much of his game particularly, so I'm just
gonna assume villain is a winning reg)
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Biggish pot from the bat. Ehm, interesting spot. Preflop and flop
are both standard/fine for both obv. Turnbet is interesting and I
don't mind it, though it can go either way.
Looking back I don't really feel the need to bet the turn here with
A5 given that I don't think he calls too much with 5x anyway (he
shouldn't really), and if he has some sort of draw we can
bluffcatch river anyway on a decent enough amount of cards and
we don't risk on getting bluffcheckraised on turn (which yaqh
should've done instead of calling).
Main reason for not betting is that there's just so little value in it
(if at all, doubt we beat yaqh's range that continues past this
point by much) and you're often just valuetowning yourself.
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Preflop looks close but fine I guess with those stacksizes behind.
Idk how much of a spite3bettor yaqh is really given we
checkraised him last time though it's not completely relevant.
I wouldn't get too fancy right away but if you want to continu on
certain boards where you don't flop a pair or decent draw, this is
about as good as it gets. Vs AA for example you still got close to
10% equity which just comes from backdoor straights and
flushes obv and there's a ton of turncards that give us a decent
amount of equity that we can either take it away on or jam over a
double barrel and barely need fold equity to make it the correct
play.
Also, I don't expect him to think that we call 3bets too light early
on and once we call the flop our range will be like Jx, some
middling pocket pairs, and maybe a float with KQ/AQ/AK if we
didn't 3bet those. Also note that your Ax is about as bad as it
gets, A2s-A5s is pretty much always gonna be better/easier to
play since flopping a gutshot will add a whopping 20% equity to
our hand.
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Interesting hand. Flop you can opt to lead since in general, the T
and 8 will hit your range a bit harder than it would hit villains
range (which is just a lot bigger in general obv) and you can do it
with a wide range of hands really since I don't expect too much
random floats for more than 1 street.
Also, the board is quite drawy, and yaqh can think that you won't
be leading 8x or Tx on this turn and can decide his 55 is good
enough to call turn and bluffcatch a ton of rivers for example. Or
call a turnbet with AJ/AQ while otherwise he would probably
check back again.
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Hand #11
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Hand #12
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Hand #13
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Hero (BB): t1360 M = 45.33
BTN/SB: t1640 M = 54.67
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Hand #14
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Quote:
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Looks like he's somewhat nitty'er than I'd expect to open his
buttons, though obv very small sample but still... He's not
autoraising ATC. =)
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Hand #16
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Hand #17
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Hand #18
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Hand #19
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From IT's point of view: I don't see why you're not barreling turn
really... You picked up some extra outs and - while this is not the
case now - your flushdraw is gonna be live here 90%+ of the
time if you ask me. Which hands of villain improve on this turn?
AK/AJ/QT/AhXh/AQ/AT and that's about it really... If he's any
good he should know that with a hand like QJ/JT you may have
turned some more equity against toppair from the flop, but in
general that card wasn't too good for his range (especially since
you never 3bet pre before which means your flattingrange can
include big hands like AT+ or JJ+ as well). Also, note how little
he has to fold on turn really to make barreling profitable! Let's
assume our flush is always good and our 3 outs to nuts may
have no implied odds but if we hit we will never lose the pot
really, so we got 12 outs on 46 cards to come. Just looking at pot
odds, you're gonna bink 27.xx% of the time on river. That means
that - if we were to check - we can call up to 60% potbet with
ZERO implied odds! That's huge! Why don't you just bet it
yourself then for around that size? Any time villain folds we gain
immediate profit (and trust me, on this board, villain should/will
fold a lot of Jx and some Kx as well and you can still vbet like
AT+/QT/strong Kx on this card). If he calls, and we miss, fine. I'd
probably just give up. Maybe make a fake blockbet depending
on rivercard. If we bink, NICE, huge pot, try to get some value by
betting accordingly.
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Hand #20
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Hand #21
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Hero (BB): t1020 M = 34
BTN/SB: t1980 M = 66
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Hand #22
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Hand #23
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Wouldn't mind a float here since I don't expect to get barreled too
often on this board but would prefer like a diamiond in our hand.
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Hand #24
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Thing is, I feel that against a decent player you have to balance
your range a bit here not to get bet of almost every turncard. So
if you want some strong checking back hands in your range here
(I had a good discussion about this with barewire a couple of
weeks ago), you should pick some flushdraws imo like even pair
+ gutter + fd like 95dd or 54dd or just like 432dd pick two or
basically any flushdraw that can continu on a ton of turncards if
we get lead. There's just no way somebody will put you on a
strong hand/draw like that checking back and we have decent
implied odds when we do hit. If there's a flushdraw and
straightdraw out there, flushdraw is the king obv.
If I were yaqh I'd probably lead this board tbh, because I don't
expect this to cbet that lightly to begin with like hero indeed did
not do.
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Hand #25
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Hand #26
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Hand #27
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Hand #28
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Hand #29
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That being said, I really think yaqh should bet the turn here once
hero checks to him. His range is pretty much faceup to draws at
this point and yaqh can def have Qx or strong top two pair in his
range here (which is std to flat the flop with imo if we get lead
most of the time, unless we have like KQ or QJ which has a
blocker or smth). If you had like the nutflushdraw I don't mind
checking back because:
1) We have showdown value for some part and can't really
valuebet against draws at this point (hero shouldn't be c/c'ing
any draws at this turn really, unless it's to checkjam most rivers
whether he hits or misses to rep trips/boat I guess but that's
really FPS).
2) We keep in worse flushdraws (which is a small part of one's
range, but just keeping in worse draws in general is good
because if hero has an openender, two of his straightouts are
flushes for us and 2 of his pairouts as well).
Quote:
Hand #30
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Cbet size looks a bit big in general I guess though you've been
using that on wet boards that you lead out as well so I don't mind
it as much really given that you use it for all t120 pots so far
regardless of position.
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Hand #35
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Hand #37
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I defend here once in a blue moon though I'd prefer hearts obv in
2010.
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Hand #38
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Hero (BTN/SB): t1225 M = 27.22
BB: t1775 M = 39.44
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Hand #39
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Hand #41
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Hand #42
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Don't mind it too much, yaqh's call pre looks pretty bad with only
slightly over pot behind. Even if your range would be superwide
and include some mid-small pocket pairs and almost no QQ+
with your sizing and for the rest AT+ and KJ+ or smth, he's still
not getting the odds to call pre if you ask me since he has to go
with any piece of the board he catches and in general your range
will have him dominated way more often than the other way
around.
SPAMZ ' ELEVENTH HAND HISTOR Y REVIEW
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Hand #1
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BTN/SB: t1500 M = 50
Hero (BB): t1500 M = 50
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Hand #2
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Hand #3
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BTN/SB: t1500 M = 50
Hero (BB): t1500 M = 50
Quote:
Hand #4
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Open J4o but not Q3o? Bit weird if you ask me.
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Hand #5
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BTN/SB: t1500 M = 50
Hero (BB): t1500 M = 50
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Hand #6
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Hand #7
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Hand #8
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BB: t1450 M = 48.33
Hero (BTN/SB): t1550 M = 51.67
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Hand #9
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Hand #10
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Hand #11
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Hand #12
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Hand #13
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BTN/SB: t1530 M = 51
Hero (BB): t1470 M = 49
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Hand #14
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Hand #15
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Hand #16
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Hand #17
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BTN/SB: t1550 M = 51.67
Hero (BB): t1450 M = 48.33
I'd lead a bunch of hands here on turn after he checks back flop
but not 66, just doesn't have equity at all. =)
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BB: t1590 M = 53
Hero (BTN/SB): t1410 M = 47
Quote:
Hand #19
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BTN/SB: t1530 M = 51
Hero (BB): t1470 M = 49
Why are you 3betting this? He seems pretty TAG-ish so far and I
don't think there's gonna be too many dominated hands in his
callingrange. Seems like you're wasting your easy to play/strong
hand by turning it into a bluff really. Wouldn't mind a 3bet with
K2o for example against this opponent (who I think will fold a
decent amoun), but KT is just a waste imo.
Quote:
Hand #20
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BB: t1470 M = 49
Hero (BTN/SB): t1530 M = 51
Why are you calling flop here, really? You think he's full of ****
that much? This is your equity against a RANDOM hand (which
includes like 32o etc):
Board: Ah As 8h
Dead:
Not doing too great right? Just think about the fact that you're
gonna end up with playing the board 12% of the time alone or
something. If you really think he's fos that much, 3bet flop to 380
or something small and that's it, calling is just never an option
really (that being said I would just fold here and move on, esp
since he c/f'ed the J96dd flop it's a bit less likely he will go out of
line).
Quote:
Hand #21
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Quote:
Hand #22
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Quote:
Hand #23
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Quote:
Hand #24
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BB: t1410 M = 47
Hero (BTN/SB): t1590 M = 53
Quote:
Hand #25
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BTN/SB: t1390 M = 46.33
Hero (BB): t1610 M = 53.67
Quote:
Hand #26
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BB: t1410 M = 47
Hero (BTN/SB): t1590 M = 53
Quote:
Hand #27
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Quote:
Hand #28
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BB: t1380 M = 46
Hero (BTN/SB): t1620 M = 54
Quote:
Hand #29
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BTN/SB: t1440 M = 48
Hero (BB): t1560 M = 52
Hand #30
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Quote:
Hand #31
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BTN/SB: t1410 M = 47
Hero (BB): t1590 M = 53
Quote:
Hand #32
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Quote:
Hand #33
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BTN/SB: t1410 M = 47
Hero (BB): t1590 M = 53
Quote:
Hand #34
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BB: t1400 M = 46.67
Hero (BTN/SB): t1600 M = 53.33
Quote:
Hand #35
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BTN/SB: t1410 M = 47
Hero (BB): t1590 M = 53
Quote:
Hand #36
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BB: t1350 M = 45
Hero (BTN/SB): t1650 M = 55
Quote:
Hand #37
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Quote:
Hand #38
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BB: t1380 M = 46
Hero (BTN/SB): t1620 M = 54
Quote:
Hand #39
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BTN/SB: t1320 M = 44
Hero (BB): t1680 M = 56
Quote:
Hand #40
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Quote:
Hand #41
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Quote:
Hand #42
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Why on earth are you raising here? All hands that continu here
have like 35% equity against you or more (naked flushdraw),
other hands have us crushed (better Tx or Kx) and we're flipping
against QJ. Those hands will stay in the pot if we raise, on a
board like this, all other hands have like 10% (two undercards i'm
talking about) and that's it. Just flat and see a turn.
Quote:
Hand #43
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BTN/SB: t1170 M = 26
Hero (BB): t1830 M = 40.67
Quote:
Hand #44
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Fwiw, I'd love a float here 1000x more than the 44 on AA8hh
really. Villain seems stationy enough that our overcards will have
some implied odds, we got a backdoor 2card flushdraw as well
which adds another 4% equity. We're getting over 3-1 on the
checkraise so I think peeling is pretty close to being ev+. Hard to
do the math here really and - as said before - slightly better to
peel here with KQcc for example but still I'd definitly consider it
vs this guy.
Quote:
Hand #45
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Quote:
Hand #46
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BB: t1935 M = 43
Hero (BTN/SB): t1065 M = 23.67
Hand #47
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Quote:
Hand #48
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BB: t1980 M = 44
Hero (BTN/SB): t1020 M = 22.67
Rest of hand seems fine as played, like your river sizing since he
will bluffcatch a lot.
Quote:
Hand #49
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BTN/SB: t1575 M = 35
Hero (BB): t1425 M = 31.67
Quote:
Hand #50
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Blinds - 2 players - View hand 723047
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Quote:
Hand #51
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Blinds - 2 players - View hand 723048
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BTN/SB: t1620 M = 36
Hero (BB): t1380 M = 30.67
Quote:
Hand #52
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Blinds - 2 players - View hand 723049
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Hand #53
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BTN/SB: t1620 M = 36
Hero (BB): t1380 M = 30.67
Quote:
Hand #54
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Blinds - 2 players - View hand 723051
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Quote:
Hand #55
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BTN/SB: t1665 M = 37
Hero (BB): t1335 M = 29.67
Looks fine, well played, river is close though. I can definitly see
him valuebet less (we still beat 2 Kx hands, not much but still), a
strong Tx or QQ-JJ here. Backdoor hearts also missed etc,
blabla, std hand, well played.
Quote:
Hand #56
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Quote:
Hand #57
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BTN/SB: t1125 M = 25
Hero (BB): t1875 M = 41.67
Quote:
Hand #58
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Blinds - 2 players - View hand 723055
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Quote:
Hand #59
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BTN/SB: t1170 M = 26
Hero (BB): t1830 M = 40.67
Looks fine, just give up once a flop like that hits, turncard isn't
too good either. River looks really thin, even though he's
stationy, he'll have 9x or 7x or a pocket pair a bunch of the time
that still beats us so just check and hope to take it down.
Wouldn't mind a 3bet pre either since he folded to all 3bets pre
and if he does call, we can still flop a set or cbet/give up certain
textures.
Quote:
Hand #60
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Looks fine, given that an 8 can give us the 2nd best hand some
of the time, just fold. Might check back flop though and call a lot
of turn barrels from him. Or float vs the checkraise with like AThh
some %.
Quote:
Hand #61
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Blinds - 2 players - View hand 723058
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Quote:
Hand #62
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BB: t1260 M = 28
Hero (BTN/SB): t1740 M = 38.67
I like it, well played. Flop is pretty horrible to cbet and we're
gonna be able to take it away on at least some turns/rivers if he
checks to us.
Quote:
Hand #63
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Blinds - 2 players - View hand 723060
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Quote:
Hand #64
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I really don't like the flop raise here fwiw. We don't have any
incentive to think that he'll spazz out like he did (although you did
raise 1/1 donkbets, but that's been a while ago).
Just call the floplead and let him fire most turns here.
First I'd like to start of with the concept of c-betting, and how it's
been widely overused. In a vaccuum, the c-bet is essentially the
perfect play to make at all times regardless of your holdings and
playing against a player X. The reason being that since your
opponent will hit a hand (including a pair or better or some kind
of draw) around 1/3 of the time, you will show automatic profit
betting any flop, even hands that have showdown value. The
problem is that when taken out of the context of a vaccuum
players are still c-betting against players that they have specific
reads on with hands that either do or do not have showdown
value, and they c-bets aren't working. This is because rarely can
a hand be taken in a vaccuum. Sure, c-bets can be highly
profitable, but if you are c-betting 100% of the flops that you've
raised preflop then your opponents will adjust (even the BAD
opponents), and what should be a highly profitable strategy has
just become an exploitable one.
When player X raises on the button, many players will 3-bet way
too many of their hands from the blinds (not 100%, but a number
that's exploitable). While, in a vaccuum, 3-betting every single
time is most likely a +ev play, by virtue of the fact that we aren't
playing in a vaccuum, makes it highly exploitable. The reason 3-
betting has become so rampant is that many players aren't
willing to battle against 3-betting as they are against C-betting,
however, those who are absolutely dominate rampant 3-bettors.
While many will suggest that this is much too passive of a play
with a hand like KQ, I strongly disagree, as our hand is strong
and underrepped we can make hands like KJ/KT/K9/QJ/QT all
willingly go way too far with their top pair hands.
Then one can make the argument, that if we're doing this with
KQ, why not with AK/AQ? Because essentially every hand that
calls our 3-bet now will be dominated, and we'll have absolutely
no problem getting it ai on a TP flop against an unkown.
Now, having said all of this, it's also important to point out that
against good players, you will have to get to the point where you
CAN 3-bet KQ for value and get it in happily on a K/Q high flop.
Most people have a hard time understanding how to do that.
- Chaostracize
A D ISCUSSION ON B ET S IZING
The point is, however, that we have been trained so well that we
always seem to know the "right" amount to bet in any situation.
We know that if we put our opponent on a weak holding, and
want to extract some thin river value, we should tend to bet
about 40-55% pot. We know that we should continuation bet
$28-$32 when we reraise to $22 at 1/2 and get flatted. We see
people make bets like $4 into a $30 pot and automatically label
them as fish. We have in short become machines, trained to
recognize the "correct" amount to bet and trained to sniff out our
opponent's holdings based on the amount he bets.
Why then do so few regulars fail to take this one simple step
further and trick their opponents by varying their bet sizing and
considering the instinctive reactionary effects that various bet
choices will have on their opponents?
110 BBs deep, We are dealt 9c7d in the big blind and our
opponent raises the button to $6 (as he has done roughly 90% of
the time). We decide that our hand is too weak to flat so our
options are folding or 3betting. However, our opponent has been
defending a lot of 3bets, so we are not in love with that option.
What should we do?
The flop comes 8d5h3s. We bet $21 and our opponent calls. The
turn is the 3s. We bet $35 and our opponent calls. The river is
the Ts. We shove all in for $145 into a pot of $150 and our
opponent tanks, hits time and folds 77.
But your average winning $1/$2 TAG simply will not call this full
pot sized bet because our line simply looks so foolish that it just
HAS to be a big hand like AA or KK. We have been playing
reasonably well and not doing anything completely out of line.
Our brief interactions in chat suggest that we view each other as
"in the same boat" - winning regulars at these stakes who
probably should be bumhunting but enjoy the challenge. Now we
have taken a completely unorthodox line, 3betting small, betting
small on the flop, small on the turn and now shoving the river ---
how could we possibly be weak? Simply put, our opponent is
under the assumption that we are not stupid enough to take this
line as a bluff. So our solid 23 minutes of play has earned us this
opportunity to seize 3 streets (including preflop) of dead money
away from our opponent, and simply force him to fold his hand
on the river.
120 big blinds deep, we are dealt Ac2c and defend our big blind
to our opponents $6 raise. The flop comes KhTc2d. With bottom
pair and a backdoor flush draw, we check-call his $10 bet. The
turn is the 3c, giving us a flush draw. We check-call a $24 bet.
The river is the beautiful 2s, giving us a very concealed trip 2s.
With $80 in the pot, and stacks of $200 behind, our opponent
bets $45 into $80.
9. Against fish who limp and call often, test their limits. See if
they will limp-call $10 at $1/$2. Maybe they'll limp-call $15.
Annoy them by varying your button raise sizing and raising their
limps to various obnoxious amounts. As your play becomes (at
least ostensibly) increasingly erratic, their propensity to hit the
FOLD button will diminish. Eventually they will be limp-calling
$50 raises.
1. $142
2. $102
3. $88
4. $52
5. $66
6. $152
7. $33 (this one is admittedly surprising)
8. $36 (typically in the form of a pot sized bet after an $18 3bet,
and always, I repeat, always, for value).
Odds of flopping...
Flush: 0.84%
Two pair: 2%
Trips: 1.35%
Full house: 0.09%
Quads: 0.01%
Straight: 1.31%
-------
Total: 5.6% (1 in 18 times, 17:1)
COMBO DRAWS
Odds of flopping...
20 outer (OESD + FD + pair): 0.077%
17 outer (Gutshot + FD + pair): 0.153%
15 outer (OESD + flush draw): 1.424%
14 outer (Pair + flush draw): 1.450%
13 outer (Pair + straight draw): 1.147%
12 outer (Gutshot + flush draw): 2.664%
------------------------
Total: 6.9% (1 in 14 times, 13:1)
These draws are all hands that can be played profitably after the
flop; either you are a favorite against an overpair, or getting AI on
the flop is +EV when you take some fold equity (and thus taking
down dead money) into account.
Combining these big draws with good made hands, you'll have a
relatively "big hand" on the flop 12.5% of the time, or 1 in 8 (very
close to how often you will flop a set with an overpair). However,
since a set is a near-invincible hand and you still have to improve
with these draws, you can't say that you also need about 7:1
odds to call with a suited connector. Your average equity on the
flop with these made hands and combo draws against an
overpair is 66% (the made hands go from 75%-99%; the combo
draws range from 45%-65%); compare this with sets, where your
equity is generally 90+%.
REGULAR DRAWS
Odds of flopping...
9 outer (flush draw): 5.2%
8 outer (straight draw): 8.0%
-----------------
Total: 13.2% (1 in 7.5 times, 6.5:1)
These are your standard draws; when you flop a hand with which
you can continue, it will most frequently be one of these. These
draws improve to a flush or straight on the river about 1 time in 3.
Summary
Adding these all together, you will flop a hand you can continue
with on the flop 25% of the time (1 in 4). However, only half of
the time will these hands be immediately profitable (i.e. +EV to
shove it in); the other half, you'll have your standard old OESD or
FD which requires playing some poker.
If you don't like numbers, skip the rest of the post; what follows is
how I calculated everything.
tl;dr math
Made hands:
I calculated the odds of flopping a straight myself; with 65s, for
example, there are four flops that give you a straight (789, 478,
347, 234). The odds of hitting each of those flops are 12/50 *
8/49 * 4/48; multiply that by 4 flops, and you get 1.31%.
Combo draws
Odds of flopping 87x with two clubs, where x does not complete
a flush or straight and does not pair your hand:
87x: 7c 8c x = 2/50 * 1/49 * 27/48 * 3 = 0.138%
7c 8x xc = 1/50 * 3/49 * 10/48 * 6 = 0.153%
7x 8c xc = 3/50 * 1/49 * 10/48 * 6 = 0.153%
Total = 0.444%
Total for all 3 flops = 1.332%
Regular draws
OESD (8 outs):
There are five flops you can catch an OESD with: using 65s as
an example, there's 87x, 74x, 43x, 973, and 842.
Odds of flopping 87x (where x does not pair your hand and does
not complete a straight):
8/50 * 4/49 * 34/48 * 3 = 02.94%
Subtract 0.442% for the times it makes an OESFD (which we
already counted) = 2.498%
Multiply by 3 for the odds of 87x/74x/43x: 7.494%
I'm here to reveal something that is an old idea - it's certainly not
novel, nor can I really say I'm the creator or founder of this idea.
However, it may be groundbreaking in today's game. Shania,
balancing, and merging are not important.
Yes, that's right; I'm here saying that being exploitable is actually
preferable to having a range in certain situations, and I'm here to
explain why that is. First and foremost, lets throw out the idea
that just because someone is exploitable actually means they get
exploited.
The basic idea behind not having a merged range is that what's
more important is how your opponents perceive you; if you play
in a merged manner, and your opponents are observant, well
then, they will assume you follow Shania and therefore need to
sit idly while you exploit them from the ground up.
Moving on, many people like to play draws the same as 2pair or
sets, so that opponent with a big pair or TP is generally in a
"murky" pokerstove quandry where Hero is likely to get paid off
w/ all his big hands and coinflip when he has that draw. We'll call
this "X" (the big hands) and "Y" (those draws); what if our
opponent always mismanages a range so that our true range is
really just "X" - it still wins the same, but perhaps we could play
"Y" in a different - and more profitable - manner without needing
to sacrifice EV for the sake of building "X".
Lastly, on the river people like to think that river bluffing needs to
be balanced with value betting, as in "I can bluff often because I
value bet thin," or the converse, "I can't bluff much because I
always have nuts or nothing, therefore I will get snapped off by
ANYTHING". This time "X" is the better hand, "Y" is the bluff; if
you know "Y" is going to be called, making it in isolation is a BAD
play! That said, people do it so that "X" can get paid off, which
again, we feel is profitable (X+Y, our Shania of that moment).
Again, if our opponent feels we are balanced, we get looked up
with "X" and save the money on a bluff from "Y". The exploitable
trait here actually is if our opponent thinks we're always "X", thus
they can continuously make bluffs, well then "Y" is swung into a
profitable space in a vacuum, and the need to balance is
removed; you exercise "Y" simply because it's the right play!
In sum, the idea that people do one thing to balance for another
is often skewed, under the principle the balancing is not
important, people THINKING you're balanced is what matters.
Further, people are much less observant then you may think; I
feel I am very perceptive, I am studious, and I'm very
knowledgeable of equities and ranges; but even I generally
misapply ranges and individual spots, so in theory I placate an
opponents "Shania" when none is necessary.
How can we learn from this? Well, the next time someone does
something that in isolation is -EV, but is considered necessary
for "metagame," perhaps make a different play, I.E. the
appropriate play if you played that hand in a vacuum. If a hand
played +EV also yields to any "metagame," then perfect! You've
accomplished something without giving up anything. On a
personal note, I don't try to balance; rather, I give off the idea I'm
balanced in several spots, but internally I know I'm not. I just
trust the ineptitude of people being able to misconstrue this
information on their own (it's hard, they just lack the necessary
information; it just takes too much work and too much time for
each person!) so that when I want to bluff, I bluff because it's the
"right" play, and when I want to valueshove, I do so because it's
"right".
- BobboFittos
One pair, two pair, three of a kind, straights, flushes and full
houses comprise over 93% of money earned. Here is the
breakdown in terms of %.
Quantities aren't important for top pair and two pair because
happen so often. The deviation isn't as important. Here are the
expected performance for top pair and two pair.
I haven't looked into three of a kind that much but since it's worth
14% of your earn I should give it more attention. From a
preliminary look at my database I'd say three of a kind should
win at 75% or better.
Using this you can tell if a particular day was good or bad due to
cards. It really won't help you become a better player. But
somedays, the reassurance that you don't suck at poker can be
worth quite a lot.
- Krishan
22 F L AW E D R E A S O NI NG S IN HUSNG P OK E R
When I give poker advice, either on the 2+2 strategy forums or privately, I ask
players to include the reasoning behind their decisions. After all, the point of asking
about a situation is not to learn how to play it if ever occurred exactly the same way,
but to figure out the concepts that really matter so that they can be applied to a wide
variety of difficult spots. Perhaps most informative is when people give me
explanations that are largely irrelevant to the situation, or demonstrate serious flaws
in their broader understanding of the game. These are opportunities to produce the
"aha!" type moments that can lead to significant improvements.
This article chronicles 22 different reasonings HUSNG students have given me when
explaining their actions, along with why they each suggest the chance to get better.
Some of them are misapplied to far too many situations, and some of them should
never be applied at all. Most are about in-game decisions, and a few have to do with
a broader approach to the game. Throughout, the common theme is that each
incorrect rationale focuses too little on calculating EV, relying instead on emotional
heuristics or misconceptions about theory. Do you understand the error in each?
This is only true when playing against a maniac who always triple barrels after betting
twice, not against the vast majority of the population. The river decision is its own
independent equity calculation based on your assessment of how often your
opponent gives up on bluffs and what percentage of his range that gets to the river
are value hands. It is quite often optimal with a bluffcatcher to call the turn and fold to
a river bet.
The error tends to come from people's irrational desire to either say they lost the
minimum, or say they won the maximum. If I'm folding on the river, they think, "dang,
I'd have been better off folding on the turn". That's a results-oriented fallacy that
takes away from your EV, both in folding to too many turn bets and in making crying
calls on too many river bets.
Similarly, especially in the era of the rematch button, you're looking for a +EV spot.
Hourly rate is a much better stat to be proud of than your ROI. The question you
should be asking yourself is whether the play is +EV. When you're folding, "waiting
for a better spot" isn't generally going to be why except in more extreme scenarios,
like passing up on 52% equity against an opponent open-shoving 75bb deep. In
general though, making the play that gives you the best equity in the hand is going to
be what wins you the most money overall.
5. "Readless, I like to play fairly nitty, not wanting to get into a marginal spot against a
player I don't know anything about."
Generally, this is said by people who go on to pass up against highly +EV spots
because they are not sure of your opponent's tendencies. It's poker, and when Oreos
aren't involved, we're never sure about any of your reads. It's always a probabilistic
guess. When you know nothing, go by the population tendencies of how likely villains
in general are to have each hand in his range. Don't fail to four-bet shove 77 just
because you don't know whether your opponent's three-betting range is too tight for
that to be profitable. Do a calculation. Based on range of villains I generally face, how
often is it profitable, and how often is it not? That's a better approach that will lead to
a +EV decision.
6. "If I'm facing a minraise or a limp in the BB, I can use the NASH chart to help make
my decision."
NASH, the more technically correct cousin of SAGE, details the push/fold and
call/fold equilibrium strategies for the small blind and the big blind respectively. It
guarantees at least a certain amount of equity. However, it is best used as a solely
general guideline for <10bb poker, and exploiting players with 2x raises, openshoves,
folds, and limps generally leads to superior results better than what NASH provides.
7. "All-in luck graphs are for whiners who like wasting their time feeling bad about
themselves."
While some HUSNG players get all of the action they could ever want at a buy-in and
speed they're positive is their most profitable, most people will not have that
experience. There are deepstacks, reg speeds, turbos, and superturbos, all at the
stake you're at, the level above, and the level below. Because EV-adjusted winnings
have much better predictive value than your actual results, if you're not positive which
stake level or game you should playing at, you hate money for not taking a quick look
at all the information available to you.
This is another reason that bypasses the correct rationale for taking an action and
becomes quite hollow when the real reason doesn't apply. There are plenty of times
when you want to inflate the pot out of position, with great hands, poor hands, and
everything in between. If you're using this logic, make sure you identify WHY it would
be such a bad thing if the pot is bigger: Is it that you're not getting value out of
enough hands? Is it that too much of your opponent's range can play well against
your hand and decrease your equity? Focus on the math, not the often misleading
generality.
Similarly, there are plenty of times when you should be making thin value bets on the
flop and turn with hands that can't stand up to further aggression. In fact, sometimes
with a marginal hand, your best play is to be aggressive and get the money in while
there is still at least some value to be had. Progressing as a poker player means
winning pots with more than just your monsters and your bluffs, it means making the
most in EV on every single value hand you are dealt, even if that means playing it
safe less often.
10. "If I have Q6 on a 642 board, I hate all turn cards that aren't queens or sixes."
Thinking like this often leads people to over-protect their hand and be too scared of
what cards can come. For example, if you had the Q6 in position on this hand and
your opponent check/called a bet, a Jack on the turn would improve your equity in
the hand against his range. Just because a jack increases the amount of hands that
beat you doesn't mean that the card increases that percentage in your opponent's
range of hands. Don't be scared, make a real value bet, and don't try too much to
push people out on these type of flops. The reason for doing so is emotional, not
mathematical.
Different types of players tend to have one of these two instincts when learning the
game. Each seems immediately justifiable, but neither is well thought out when
applied globally. Whether to bet big, small, or anywhere in between with your
monsters depends on your opponent, the board texture, your opponent's range, your
image, your perceived range, and a host of other factors. Often, players will quickly
bet big or small without thinking about any of these details, just out of instinct.
22 F L AW E D R E A S O NI NG S I N HUSNG P OK E R (P A R T 2)
The first half of this article introduced how there are dozens of common flawed ways
of thinking about HUSNG poker that are pervasive amongst average midstakes
players. In general, they tend to make use of heuristics that end up distracting from
an accurate equity calculation at the core of the decision. We'll now broaden this
understanding towards your poker career and out-of-game poker choices, with a few
more examples of specific common in-game situations interspersed along the way.
12. "I haven't really thought about how much I'll play poker and when I'll move on
from the game, or applied that to any of my decisions."
Kicking off the second half of this series is perhaps the biggest large-scale leak you
can fix if you happen have it.
When you decide how much to study poker, whether to invest in a coach or a training
site, whether to move up, how many buy-ins to carry, what game selection to employ,
and so many other decisions, you are making choices that are drastically affected by
how much you'll play in your life and at what level.
If you pick one stat to focus on maximising in your poker career, it shouldn't be your
ROI, your current hourly rate, or even your lifetime profit. For most people, the best
goal is maximising your lifetime hourly rate. Make the most from the time you put in,
both in fun and in money.
If you think you might give up poker in a couple of months, a subscription to a training
site is far less valuable than if you know you're in it for the long haul. If you have no
ambitions of moving up, focusing on game selecting to maximise your current hourly
rate is better, but otherwise, you're holding yourself back from the skills that will allow
you to succeed at the next level. Start thinking about where you see yourself in poker
in a few years, and how to give yourself the best possible career path.
13. "There isn't much of a point in studying how to beat fish; I want to learn how to
beat regs."
Do you think you're beating fish as badly as Phil Ivey would? That you're playing
perfect poker? If you're sane and don't think this, money is a continuum, and the
extra 2% of EV ROI you pick up against a regular fish is just as important as the extra
2% of EV ROI you pick up against a decent reg in an individual match. Learning how
to beat good players is important as you move up, but complacency about how you
play against fish is lighting money on fire. Maximally exploiting bad players is an
exceedingly complicated concept and one that deserves to be treated as such. If you
think you should "just play ABC", you're missing out on a lot of money, depending on
what ABC means to you.
14. "I know this strategy is unexploitable, so it's what I choose to use."
This attitude falls back on the crutch of knowing a play is +EV, afraid to search for
lines that have even better equity. For example, many players want to ease
themselves of the emotional swings of playing shortstacked poker by strictly adhering
to NASH and consoling themselves about how they had positive expectation,
nevermind the boatloads of EV they threw away in order to be convinced of that.
15a. "Deepstacked poker is pretty simple, I don't have much to learn there."
15b. "Shortstacked poker is pretty simple, I don't have much to learn there."
I would get absolutely crushed against the best shortstacked HUSNG player in the
world, and similarly dominated against the best deepstacked player. There's always
plenty to learn. Heads-Up players have notoriously big egos, and defense
mechanisms that get in the way of improvement. Always be excited to learn when
someone says you're not playing well. Take it as an opportunity to get better and win
even more money in the future, or learn more about why your play was actually
correct. Don't close yourself off from chances to improve just because you want to
feel confident in your game.
This is in the "tell me more" family of errors, where too often, people think this is
reason enough to trap. Why is checking the best option, equity-wise? What does
your opponent's range look like? How do you know it's worth being deceptive
against? Learn what are and aren't sufficient reasons to take a particular line.
17. "I like to mix up my play and take different lines, with or without reads."
Translation: I like to take suboptimal lines just for fun. If you're not going to have a
long history with your opponent, don't play them like it. Take the most profitable line.
18. "When I hit the turn after check/calling the flop, I should almost always check the
turn to give villain a chance to bet again."
Check/call the flop, and insta-check the turn when you hit: Along with looking away
from the computer screen right after you see that you hit, it's an instinctual reaction.
However, when that card is an overcard to the board against a player who does not
double barrel wide for value or for bluff, leading the turn often does far, far better on
average than checking. Take into account your opponent's range, how much of that
range just because marginal showdown value liable to check, and consider leading
rather than just mechanically checking to the aggressor.
19. "If villain calls flop bets light, he's a calling station, and I shouldn't bother bluffing
against him very much on any street."
When people call flop bets light, they have a significantly weaker range for the rest of
the hand, a range that produces much more fold equity than against players who call
the flop in fit-or-fold fashion. True, some players will call down all the way no matter
what they have, but it's a mistake to shut down on bluffing just because you find out
your opponent likely has a weak range.
20. "I don't know how I'd be exploitable if someone analyzed my database."
In thinking about balance and exploiting the tendencies of other winning regs, the
best thing to do is know yourself. You know how you feel in different spots, you know
how you play, and you know where you can be exploited. Or, at least, you should.
Take a while to think about it. Here are a couple common tendencies for winning low-
to-mid stakes husng players: When you raise a healthy-sized river bet, it's almost
always for value. When you 3-bet and readlessly check a 987ss flop with two times
the size of the pot left in your stack, your range is pretty weak. Sound familiar? Do
this type of analysis on your own play, knowing everything that you know about it,
and it will help you understand how to exploit others.
21. "If I have a suited hand in the BB and flop a pair and a flush draw, I'm pretty much
always check/raising because I know I have great equity."
Just to hammer home the point with an example a lot of mid-high stakes players can
make errors on: Just because you know you have great equity and a non-monster
does not mean it's best to check/raise. When you have a pair and a two-card flush
draw on the flop, you have a great hand, anything besides folding is going to be +EV.
Break down your opponent's range and what actions make the most against different
hands. While check/raising is often best, a good percentage of the time, check/calling
or leading is preferable.
22. "If I make this play, I might make money in the short run, but I'll soon become
exploitable."
This reasoning serves as a crutch for people who are afraid to deviate from their
moderately winning strategies, and is not grounded in equity. It's OK to be
exploitable, you play most people only for a game or two, and should be trying to
maximize your value from their tendencies. If you think your opponent might be
catching on, keep being a moving target, and continue to exploit. Having a strategy
that is willing to be dynamic takes more effort, but it gets rewarded when you click the
withdrawal button.
To take your game to the next level, you have to figure out what aspects of your
thought process about the game are distracting you from what really matters: Your
EV, both in-game and in your lifetime poker career. Talk with your friends about this
list, defend ones you think you might disagree with, come up with more that I've
forgotten, and work hard to rid your mind of the flawed understandings that keep you
from making the most from the hands you're dealt and the games you play.
I NDY ' S INTERVIEW WITH S TEVESBETS
*How old are you and where you from?
I am 24 years old from Philadelphia.
*What did you do before you played poker as your main form of
income?
I never really had any money before poker, my parents
supported me by giving my 300 dollars a month spending money
and paying for my room and board in college. Now that I think
about it I have no idea how I lived with only 300 dollars
spending.
*How does it feel to play for 5 or 10k per match? Do the swings
get to you?
How do u deal with them?
*How does it feel to play the 5500s and continually beat the best
of the
best? How do you do it?
It's a very stressful way to live. They are very volatile and when
running bad I often find myself utterly dreading the turn and river.
*Are you worried about the future legality of online poker? What
are your
predictions of the legality of online poker in 3 years?
*Do you think the HU fish will hang around for awhile? Will there
be more of
them?
People will always want to play heads up, it's the ultimate
challenge to yourself, just you, one on one for the money
*Do you ever find fish at the highest levels of HU (5500s)? are
they just
rich guys?
There aren't really many fish so much as people you just match
up well against. Some of the people I like to play the most I do
not consider a fish by any means. My game simply matches up
well against theirs. As much as we all like to think we can adjust
to any opponent, change gears etc. We are all at least partial
slaves to our natural tendencies and we have to hope these
tendencies coincide with a winning strategy.
You have to use the clues that you have. Namely what the player
does on every street of the hand and what that players
tendencies are and you can usually know what they have. I've
laid down lots of hands most people probably wouldn't even
believe if I told them and I've made some calls that many people
would consider very fishy. Don't be afraid to look dumb. I would
say 50% of online players think I'm a huge fish and I'm fine with
that. You just have to play your game and be smart about it.
See above
I HAVE ALWAYS BEEN DRAWN TO HEADS UP POKER EVER SINCE I STARTED PLAYING
ONLINE . I LOVE THE COMPETITION AND DYNAMICS THAT COME WITH HEADS UP .
I WILL USUALLY COME OUT PLAYING PRETTY STRAIGHT FORWARD BUT LEANING TOWARDS
BEING AGGRESSIVE AND SEEING HOW THEY REACT. YOU CAN USUALLY TELL PRETTY
EARLY ON WHAT KIND OF PLAYER YOU ARE UP AGAINST .
OF COURSE, EVERY PLAYER HAS LEAKS AND ANYONE THAT SAYS THEY DON'T ISN'T BEING
HONEST. I' M ALWAYS TRYING TO GET BETTER EVERYDAY . A LOT OF LEAKS THE HIGHER
YOU GET UP ALMOST HAVE LESS TO DO WITH POKER AND MORE TO DO WITH THE
PSYCHOLOGY OF POKER . A LOT OF GOOD PLAYERS TILT OR CAN 'T MANAGE MONEY RIGHT
AND END UP
NOT BEING SUCCESSFUL AS POKER PLAYERS DESPITE HAVING ALL THE TALENT .
HOW DID YOU LEARN TO MULTITABLE PROFITABLY AT THE 220S? THAT SEEMS LIKE A
VERY HARD THING TO DO. H OW DO YOU GET READS LIKE THIS ?
NOTHING OTHER THEN PRACTICE. I SINGLE TABLED FOR A LONG TIME AND THEN WOULD
START TO WORK IN TWO TABLES . NOW I WILL GET INCREDIBLY BORED IF I AM
PLAYING ONLY ONE TABLE .
DO YOU HAVE ANY SPECIFIC POKER GOALS ? W HERE DO YOU SEE YOURSELF IN 3-5
YEARS ?
RIGHT NOW I AM SO INTO POKER THAT I DON'T SEE MYSELF WANTING TO STOP PLAYING
ANYTIME SOON . I AM LIVING A VERY GOOD LIFE AND AM TRYING TO SET MYSELF
UP FINANCIALLY FOR THE REST OF MY LIFE . EVENTUALLY I'D LIKE TO GET TO A POINT
WHERE I DON'T HAVE TO GRIND SO MUCH AND CAN ENJOY DOING OTHER THINGS MORE
BUT
AT THE MOMENT I DON'T MIND IT . PROBABLY I WILL START COACHING SOCCER IN A FEW
YEARS AND KEEP PLAYING POKER ON THE SIDE .
W HAT ARE SOME OF THE WEAKNESSES YOU SEE IN PLAYERS AT THE 220S AND HIGHER ?
THERE ARE A LOT ACTUALLY. THERE'S SOME PLAYERS THAT WILL NEVER FOLD PREFLOP
AND DEFEND OUT OF POSITION WITH TRASH . T HEN THERE 'S OTHERS THAT WILL
FELT TOP PAIR NO MATTER WHAT .
W HAT ARE THE BIGGEST STRUGGLES YOU HAVE HAD TO OVERCOME AS A PROFESSIONAL
POKER PLAYER ?
THANKFULLY I HAVEN'T FACED A TON OF ADVERSITY COMING UP . SINCE I RARELY PLAY
MUCH HIGHER THEN $500 GAMES I DON' T EVER REALLY FACE THAT MANY BAD
DOWNSWINGS .
LAST YEAR I PLAYED A LOT OF $10/$20NL HU CASH GAMES BUT HAVING $10K SWINGS
EVERYDAY GOT TO ME AND SINCE THIS IS HOW I MAKE MY LIVING I AM LOOKING FOR A
MORE RISK - FREE WAY TO GRIND MONEY. W HEN I FIRST STARTED PLAYING HOWEVER I
HAD A LOT OF PROBLEMS WITH BANKROLL MANAGEMENT AND NEVER CASHING MONEY
OUT BEFORE
DECIDING TO TAKE POKER MORE SERIOUS .
LET'S SAY ITS THE 3RD HAND OF A MATCH , AND THE OPPONENT IS PRETTY LOOSE AND
PASSIVE ....YOU HAVE A5 O AND RAISE IT TO 60 (3 X THE BB ) AND HE CALLS AND THE FLOP
COMES DOWN 224 TWO SPADES ONE HEART AND HE CHECKS TO YOU ....W HAT IS YOUR
MOVE ? ASSUME EQUAL STACKS WITHOUT LOSS OF GENERALITY.
I WILL BET THIS FLOP EVERYTIME . NOT ONLY DO I HAVE TWO OVERS AND A GUT SHOT,
IT'S VERY LIKELY I HAVE THE BEST HAND AT THE MOMENT ANYWAY . IF HE IS LOOSE
PASSIVE HE WILL HARLDY EVER CHECK RAISE ME OFF THIS HAND AND HE MIGHT EVEN
CALL DOWN WITH A WORSE HAND LIKE 56 OR SOMETHING .
W HAT ARE KEY COMPONENTS OF YOUR GAME / LIFESTYLE THAT MAKE YOU A BIGGER
WINNER THAN MOST ( OR MORE CONSISTENT )?
I THINK A BIG COMPONENT IS MY WORK ETHIC . I DON'T MIND GRINDING OUT $3-4K A WEEK
PLAYING $220 WHERE AS A LOT OF PLAYERS WOULD GET SICK OF IT AND WANT TO
RUN UP THEIR ACCOUNT A LITTLE BIT MORE AND TAKE SHOTS AT BIGGER GAMES . I PLAY
POKER TO MAKE MONEY AND ENJOY CASHING MONEY OUT EVERY FEW DAYS WHERE AS
MOST
PLAYERS PREFER KEEPING MONEY ONLINE I THINK .
W HAT SHOULD US LITTLE GROUPIES KNOW OR LEARN TO GET BALLER AT HU LIKE YOU?
JUST WORK HARD AND IF YOU DEDICATE ENOUGH TIME TO SOMETHING YOU ARE GOING
TO BE SUCCESSFUL WITH IT. YOU HAVE TO SEPARATE YOURSELF FROM OTHERS THOUGH
BY
DOING THINGS OTHERS WOULDN 'T. IF THAT MEANS REVIEWING HH AFTER SESSIONS ,
GETTING COACHED, OR JUST TALKING WITH OTHER POKER FRIENDS ABOUT HOW THEY
WOULD
PLAY CERTAIN SITUATIONS , IT MAKES A BIG DIFFERENCE . IT REALLY TAKES A LOT OF
DEDICATION .
HOW DO YOU LIVE AWAY FROM THE GAME (EG. EAT WELL, GET EXERCISE , LOTS OF GOOD
SEX:)) TO STAY SHARP FOR THE GAME ?
I TRY TO STAY ACTIVE AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE BECAUSE BEING A PROFESSIONAL POKER
PLAYER IS ONE OF THE WORST OCCUPATIONS FOR STAYING IN SHAPE . AS FOR EATING ,
I EAT OUT EVERY SINGLE DAY OF MY LIFE AND SPEND MY FAIR SHARE ON FOOD.
DO YOU HAVE A BALLER HOUSE, BALLER LIFESTYLE , MONIEZ AND BIOTCHES ALL DAY?
RIGHT NOW I HAVE AN APARTMENT WITH ONE OF MY BEST FRIENDS AND MY OLDER
BROTHER WHO IS A POKER PLAYER. I DEFINITELY ENJOY MY LIFESTYLE BUT IT 'S NOT
CRAZY
BALLER OR ANYTHING . A LOT OF MY MONEY IS PUT AWAY IN INVESTMENTS. I' M BUYING A
VERY NICE CONDO IN THE NEXT YEAR THOUGH .
I BOUGHT A 2007 BMW 335I IN MARCH AND AM GETTING A 2008 PORSCHE CAYENNE S
WITH MY FPP S NEXT MONTH .