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The Fall Recipes

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baller or a knife. Slice the apple quarters thinly crosswise,


and slip the slices into the lemon water.
6. Cut away the core from each radicchio quarter and
separate the leaves. Slice the outer leaves in half lengthwise. Cut the grilled fennel into bite-size pieces. Drain
the apple slices. Put the radicchio, grilled fennel, apple
slices, and about three-fourths of the sliced raw fennel
stalks in a large bowl. Whisk the remaining 1 tablespoon
oil into the vinegar-salt mixture to make a vinaigrette.
Pour all but about 1 tablespoon of the vinaigrette over
the salad and toss gently to coat evenly.
7. Divide the salad among 4 to 6 plates. Top with the
remaining sliced raw fennel and the walnuts, drizzle with the
remaining vinaigrette, and garnish with the fennel fronds.
PER 2-CUP SERVING 251 cal., 68% (171 cal.) from fat; 5 g protein;
19 g fat (2 g sat.); 19 g carbo (6 g fi ber); 640 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

SCARLET EMPEROR RAGOT


Scarlet Emperor is a particularly pretty variety of scarlet
runner bean. The flowers are a deep lipstick pink and, in
summer, pop out all over the vinewhich itself is a graceful, twirling, high-climbing plant. The bean inside the pod,
when freshly picked, is the same color the flower was; then
it quickly oxidizes to a shiny purple, then purple-black.
This ragot (a French style of stew) is simple yet incredibly
flavorful, and we ate big bowls of it by itself with bread,
or with braised greens.
MAKES 4 to 6 servings as a side dish
TIME about 11/2 hours
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more for
finishing
12 cipollini onions, peeled and halved
16 roasted tomato halves (see Slow-Roasted Tomatoes
for the Freezer, page 84)
1 tablespoon minced garlic
2 cups drained cooked Cannellini beans (method
follows)
2 cups drained cooked Scarlet Emperor beans
(method follows)
11/2 teaspoons fine sea salt
1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary
1. Preheat the oven to 350F. In a Dutch oven or other
heavy pot, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onions

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and cook, stirring often, until browned and softened,


5 to 6 minutes. Add the tomatoes and garlic and cook,
stirring, until fragrant, 1 minute. Stir in the beans and
salt. Pour in just enough water to cover the beans.
2. Cover the pot, place in the oven, and bake for
30 minutes. Stir the ragot, return the pot to the
oven, uncovered, and cook for another 30 minutes to
blend the fl avors and reduce and thicken the liquid.
3. Remove from the oven and stir in the rosemary. Spoon
into warmed bowls, and top each serving with a drizzle
of oil.
PER 1-CUP SERVING 238 cal., 24% (58 cal.) from fat; 12.5 g protein;
6.4 g fat (0.9 g sat.); 33 g carbo (6.5 g fi ber); 619 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

HOW TO COOK DRIED BEANS


In general, 1 pound (about 21/4 cups) dried beans yields
2 to 21/2 pounds (about 6 cups) cooked beans.
In a large pot, combine the dried beans with water to
cover by 2 inches, cover, and bring to a boil over high heat.
Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook, occasionally skimming off any foam from the surface, until the beans are just
tender, 45 minutes to 11/2 hours. Add fine sea salt to taste
(1 teaspoon for every 2 cups uncooked beans is about right)
when the beans are still a little crunchy, about 15 minutes
before they have finished cooking. For the most velvety
texture, let the beans cool in their liquid. The beans can be
stored, covered, in their liquid, in the refrigerator for up to
2 days and frozen (drained) for up to 1 month.

STUFFED POBLANOS WITH


RED PEPPER SAUCE
With their filling of quinoa and dried corn, these stuffed
poblanos are both earthy and light. We used the last of
the fresh poblanos in our garden for this recipe.
MAKES 6 servings TIME about 11/2 hours
2/3

cup quinoa*
cup dried corn kernels**
6 poblano chiles
2 Mariachi or Carmen peppers, or red bell peppers
3 cloves garlic, unpeeled
1/2 white onion, unpeeled
1 cup shredded Gouda cheese, homemade (page 122)
or store-bought
1 large egg, lightly beaten
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9. To serve, spoon the warm sauce into a serving dish and


top with the hot stuffed poblanos.

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh oregano


1 teaspoon fine sea salt
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1. Fill a large bowl halfway with cool water. Add the
quinoa and briefly rub the grains between your palms
in the water. Drain the quinoa in a fine-mesh strainer,
transfer to a saucepan, add 2 cups water, and bring to a
boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until translucent in the
center and a white ring appears, about 15 minutes. Let
cool for a few minutes, then fluff with a fork.
2. In a small saucepan, combine the corn kernels with
water just to cover. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat
and simmer until tender, about 2 minutes. Drain.
3. Preheat the broiler. Place the poblanos on a rimmed
baking sheet lined with aluminum foil. Broil, turning
as needed, until completely charred on all sides, 15 to
20 minutes. Cover the poblanos with a kitchen towel
and let cool until they can be handled. Reduce the oven
temperature to 425F.
4. Put the red peppers, garlic, and the onion half, cut side
down, on a rimmed baking sheet lined with foil. Roast
until the peppers have blackened slightly, about 20 minutes. Let the vegetables cool until they can be handled.
Leave the oven set at 425F.
5. When the poblanos are cool enough to handle, peel
off and discard the skins. Cut a lengthwise slit 2 to
3 inches long on one side of each poblano, and carefully
scoop out the seeds with your fingers or a small spoon.
Put the poblanos back on the baking sheet.
6. In a bowl, mix together the quinoa, 1/2 cup of the
cheese, the egg, the oregano, 1/2 teaspoon of the salt, and
the corn. Carefully spoon the mixture into the poblanos,
dividing it evenly. Cover the poblanos with foil.
7. Bake the poblanos for 15 minutes. Uncover, sprinkle
with the remaining cheese, and bake until the cheese has
melted and has begun to turn golden, about 5 minutes.
8. While the poblanos are baking, peel the roasted garlic
and onion and stem and seed the red peppers. Put them
all in a food processor; add the oil, lemon juice, and the
remaining salt; and puree until smooth. If the puree is
cool, warm it in a small saucepan over low heat.

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* For instructions on how to rinse homegrown quinoa to


rid it of bitterness, see page 100.
** We used corn from our summer garden that we dried
ourselves (page 84). Feel free to use fresh corn kernels,
if you like, increasing the amount to 1/2 cup.
PER POBLANO WITH 1/4 CUP SAUCE 286 cal., 52% (149 cal.) from fat;
10 g protein; 17 g fat (5 g sat.); 25 g carbo (4 g fi ber); 548 mg sodium;
57 mg chol.

QUINOA HUARACHES WITH


EGG AND PARSLEY SALAD
In Mexico, huaraches is the word for sandals and also
for the thick, oval tortilla-like cakes that resemble
them. They are usually piled with lots of delicious toppings, and so are these.
MAKES 6 servings TIME about 11/2 hours
1 cup quinoa*
9 large eggs
1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 cups drained cooked Cannellini beans (see method,
page 142), warmed
2 cups Walnut Romesco (double recipe, page 138)
2 cups fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves
1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/4 cup 1-inch-long fresh chive pieces
1. Fill a large bowl halfway with cool water. Add the
quinoa and briefly rub the grains between your palms
in the water. Drain the quinoa in a fine-mesh strainer,
transfer to a saucepan, add 2 cups water, and bring to a
boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until translucent in the
center and a white ring appears, about 15 minutes.
2. Transfer the quinoa to a bowl and refrigerate 20 minutes. Meanwhile, put 6 eggs in another small saucepan
and add water to cover. Bring to a boil over medium-high
heat, remove from the heat, cover, and let stand for
15 minutes. Drain the eggs and rinse with cold water until
cool. Peel the eggs and quarter lengthwise. Set aside.
3. Lightly beat the remaining 3 eggs, add to the cooled
quinoa with 1/4 teaspoon of the salt, and stir to combine.

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* We used finely milled Sonora white whole-wheat


flour, because it behaves like commercial whole-wheat
pastry flour. For the regular whole-wheat flour, we used
Expresso, a hard red winter wheat. See the Allure of
Local Wheat, page 156, for more on local flours.
PER SERVING 431 cal., 40% (172 cal.) from fat; 14 g protein; 20 g fat
(3.6 g sat.); 58 g carbo (13 g fi ber); 627 mg sodium; 177 mg chol.

MEXICAN SKILLET EGGS


Our eggs seemed especially fl avorful in this one-pan
dinner, fortified with pureed Scarlet Emperor beans (our
substitute for black beans, because they have a similar
starchy texture), intense oven-roasted tomatoes preserved
from summer, and our last few fresh chiles. Once we ran
out of fresh, we made it with frozen poblanos (see page
84 for a method) and dried serrano chiles (page 83).
MAKES 4 to 6 servings TIME about 30 minutes
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1/2 white onion, sliced
2 red or green poblano chiles, stemmed, seeded,
and sliced

1 tablespoon minced garlic


1 tablespoon minced red serrano chile
11/2 teaspoons fine sea salt
3 cups drained cooked Scarlet Emperor beans
(see method, page 142)
8 roasted tomato halves (see Slow-Roasted Tomatoes
for the Freezer, page 84), halved
4 to 6 large eggs
1 tablespoon fresh oregano leaves
1. In a large nonstick frying pan, heat the oil over
medium heat. Add the onion and poblanos and cook,
stirring often, until starting to soften, about 4 minutes.
Add the garlic, serrano chile, and 1/2 teaspoon of the
salt and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute.
Set aside off the heat and cover to keep warm.
2. In a small saucepan, combine the beans, 1/2 cup water,
and the remaining 1 teaspoon salt over low heat and heat
just until warm. Transfer to a food processor and puree
until smooth and loose, adding more water as needed.
3. Return the frying pan to medium heat, pour the bean
puree over the vegetables, and heat until the mixture
begins to simmer. Scatter the tomato halves over the
beans. Use a spoon to make 4 or 6 wells, depending on
how many people you are serving, and crack an egg into
each well. Cover the pan and cook until the eggs are just
set but still a little runny in the center, about 5 minutes.
Sprinkle with the oregano and serve.
PER EGG WITH 1/4 CUP BEANS 217 cal., 42% (93 cal.) from fat;
13 g protein; 10.5 g fat (20 g sat.); 18 g carbo (2 g fi ber); 649 mg sodium;
211 mg chol.

CREAMY SCRAMBLED EGGS


WITH OYSTER MUSHROOMS
This recipe is based on one by Niloufer Ichaporia King,
a wonderful Bay Area cook and the author of My Bombay
Kitchen: Traditional and Modern Parsi Home Cooking.
MAKES 4 to 6 servings TIME about 30 minutes
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, homemade (page 154)
or store-bought
7 ounces oyster mushrooms, stems trimmed if woody
and any large caps halved
11/2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves, minced
Fine sea salt

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should be taken down when they are evenly darkened, fully


wrinkled, and leathery but still supple, 2 to 3 weeks. Put
both types in airtight containers. They will keep, stored at
room temperature, for up to several months.

TO DRY IN A DEHYDRATOR
Arrange rinsed, dried whole chiles in a single layer on
one or more dehydrator trays. Because poblanos are thick,
you may have to invert the tray above them for the first
day to accommodate their girth. Once they have shrunk,
you can stack the trays normally. Dehydrate the serranos
until they are brittle, 1 to 2 days. The anchos should be
leathery but still supple, which will take 2 days.

DRIED CORN
We ate most of our corn fresh off the cob, but dried
some of it for use later in the year (we put it into stuffed
poblano chiles, page 142). Using a dehydrator (page 81)
is the simplest and fastest approach.
Remove the husks and silk from the ears. Cut each ear
into 2-inch lengths and set the pieces in a single layer on

the dehydrator trays. Dehydrate until just dried, about


36 hours. Rub the dried kernels off the ears.
Two ears will yield about 11/4 cups fresh kernels or
1/3 cup dried kernels. Store the dried kernels in airtight
containers at room temperature for up to several months.
PER 1/4-CUP SERVING 150 cal., 12% (18 cal.) from fat; 4 g protein;
2 g fat (0 g sat.); 31 g carbo (6 g fi ber); 15 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

ROASTED POBLANOS
FOR THE FREEZER
When chiles are in season, we like to roast lots of them
and stash them away in bags in the freezer. Then when we
want to make chiles rellenos, a salsa, or a stew, we just
pull out a bag. We freeze the chiles whole with the seeds,
so they can be prepped in a number of different ways.
MAKES 8 roasted chiles TIME about 45 minutes
8 poblano chiles, about 2 pounds total
1. Preheat the broiler. Put the chiles on a rimmed baking sheet lined with aluminum foil. Place in the broiler
about 4 inches from the heat source and broil, turning as
needed, until blackened all over, at least 15 minutes.
2. Remove the poblanos from the broiler, cover with a
kitchen towel, and let cool until they can be handled.
Gently pull off and discard the blackened skins. Let the
chiles cool completely, then arrange them in a single layer
in a 1-gallon resealable plastic bag. Seal the bag closed,
pressing out the air. Seal the first bag in a second bag.
3. Freeze for up to 6 months.
PER CHILE 33 cal., 45% (15 cal.) from fat; 1.7 g protein; 0.17 g fat
(0.02 g sat.); 7.8 g carbo (1.2 g fi ber); 5.8 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

SLOW-ROASTED TOMATOES
FOR THE FREEZER
These slow-roasted tomatoes freeze well and add deep,
tomatoey fl avor to any dish long after summer has gone.
Any variety or size of tomatoes will work, but in our
climate, tomatoes seldom get much bigger than 3 inches
in diameter. Roast tomatoes of the same size together so
they cook evenly.
MAKES 8 cups TIME about 8 hours

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2. In a small bowl, mix the oil and garlic, then drizzle


over the tomatoes. Sprinkle with the salt and oregano.

10 pounds tomatoes
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 teaspoons fine sea salt
1/4 cup chopped fresh oregano
1. Preheat the oven to 250F. Core all tomatoes except
cherry tomatoes. Cut small tomatoes in half, keep cherry
tomatoes whole, and cut medium and large tomatoes into
11/2-inch-thick wedges. Arrange the tomatoes, cut side
up and packed tightly together, on rimmed nonreactive or
aluminum foillined baking sheets.

3. Roast the tomatoes, switching the pans to a different


oven rack every 2 hours, until they have wrinkled and
shrunk by more than half but are still slightly moist,
6 to 8 hours. If roasting cherry tomatoes, begin checking
after 5 hours.
4. Let the tomatoes cool completely, then transfer to
a sturdy airtight container and store in the refrigerator
for up to 1 week or in the freezer for up to 5 months.
PER 1/4-CUP SERVING 54 cal., 59% (32 cal.) from fat; 1.2 g protein;
3.8 g fat (0.54 g sat.); 5.2 g carbo (1.6 g fi ber); 147 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Summer Preserved

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