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The trees on my property, which are practically free of flammable hydrogen, would lend themselves to supporting
a 135-foot (41 m) wire at an average height of 35 feet (10 m), especially if I could feed it from one end. I
inventoried my antenna materials and came up with a 500-foot spool of 14AWG, insulated, solid copper wire;
various pieces of PVC pipe; several insulators designed for electric fencing, and assorted lengths of polyester rope.
(For metric conversions, click here).
About 3 inches down from the top, I drilled a 1/2-inch (13 mm) hole clear through the pipe, and threaded in a 5-
inch (13 cm) piece of 1/2-inch, threaded rod, securing it on both ends with nuts. This rod bears the weight of the
pipe. I drilled a 3/8-inch hole in the center of the top cap, threaded a piece of poly rope through it, and tied the end
to the threaded rod inside the pipe. This rope goes through the pulley and connects to the feedpoint insulator at the
Northwest end of the wire. With the top cap only press-fit to the pipe, I can loosen it, slip it up the rope, and add or
remove ballast from the pipe as needed to adjust the tension on the wire. Although I've probably just stolen this
idea from somewhere, and then forgotten where, it works, and I feel pretty smug about it. I used surplus nails for
ballast, scooping them in and out of the pipe until I was satisfied with the tension on the wire. With the antenna at
working height, the counterweight hangs inconspicuously in the outer branches of the tree that supports the pulley
rope.
The ladder line slid through this slot with some resistance. I pushed a bit more than I needed through the slot, and
then drove a short piece of thick walled, 3/8th-inch OD Nylon tubing through the perpendicular holes, so that it
passed through a "window" in the ladder line. This "pinned" the ladder line in the insulator, preventing it from
pulling out under its own weight. I trimmed the dead-end wire from the feedline just after it leaves the top of the
insulator, and cut the webbing away from the remaining wire. This wire I stripped, and soldered to the antenna
wire. (And me with no engineering degree whatsoever...)
Photo 7: Drain holes in Feedpoint Insulator Photo 8: Closeup of tapered hole for wire to
keep moisture from accumulating. reduce chafing in direction of strain.
Big Plans, No Patience
The house-end of the feedline enters the shack through a piece of plywood cut to fit the window. I mounted a set
of test lead terminals that happen to be spaced the same as the feeders in the ladder line. I put alligator clips on two
short pieces of ladder line to connect to the output side of the tuner -- the tuner I almost used.
In honor of L. B. Cebik, W4RNL, ("Antennas, Tales and Technicals; Research and Education," CD-ROM available
from the antenneX Shopping Shack Bookshelf), I had every intention of trying to tune this antenna with an old
link-coupled tuner. I got this big old box in an assortment of stuff from a local ham who was moving out of town.
After a couple of hours of trying to figure out two sets of coil taps, and an infinite number of capacitor settings, my
patience ran out. I mounted an SO-239 on a piece of aluminum angle, put it on the inside of the panel and
connected it to the terminal posts with some short clip leads. I connected a bead balun to the SO-239 and a coax
jumper to the little old MFJ-941C tuner I've had for about 15 years.
Photo11: Low band coil -- "Bud" Part No. ACV-1 (160 - 40M)
I tuned down through the WARC bands for a while, and stopped on 20M. In short order, I talked to AA1KS, Rick,
Moose Island, Maine; PY2QA, Adrian, in Sao Paolo, Brazil; and VP2MDC, Dave, Montserrat. By 0145Z, I was in
a leisurely conversation with W8LBL, Norris, West Virginia, on 40M. Norris's 500 watts kept him a steady S9 +
20-30 dB to me, and he said I was staying well above S9 on a "stingy" S-meter. On 20 and below, the Zepp
seemed to be nearly omnidirectional. Not bad for barefoot on the old Icom IC-745.
Next Time...
Obviously, that big, old link tuner deserves more respect and attention than I gave it in this article. In the interest of
time, and sticking to one main topic per article, I gave it short shrift, but I'm hoping to spend a lot more time on it
in the near future. The "breadboard" arrangement of components and connections makes varying the configuration
pretty straightforward, with the exception that there is not a lot of room inside for additional components, such as
another variable cap. antenneX readers with ideas about how to put this tuner through its paces are welcome to get
in touch with me via the link at the end of this article.
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