* <DOHC> Checking the TPS and Adjusting the Idle

<DOHC> TPS Testing and Adjustment

The TPS is there to tell the ECU how hard you have your foot on the gas. It isn't there to
adjust for the idle. It's a sensor. It does have some adjustment of it's own and we'll try to
give our version of what our Factory Manual says (though we won't even come close to
doing it justice):

Throttle Sensor & Soft/Hard Idle Switch

The Throttle Sensor responds to the accelerator pedal movement. This sensor is a kind
of potentiometer which transforms the Throttle Valve position into output voltage, and
emits the voltage signal to the ECU. In addition, the sensor detects the opening and
closing speed of the Throttle Valve and feeds the voltage signal to the ECU.

Idle position of the Throttle Valve is determined by the ECU receiving the signal from
the Throttle Sensor. This system is called "Soft Idle Switch" and controls engine
operation such as fuel cut. On the other hand, "Hard Idle Switch", which is built into the
Throttle Sensor unit on the A/T equipped models, is not used for engine control.

Trouble Diagnoses:
1. Disconnect Throttle Sensor harness connector.
2. Make sure that resistance between terminal #1 and #2 changes when opening the
Throttle Valve manually.
Looking at the "pins" of the connector w/ the locking tab of the connector pointing up,
terminals #1 is the one on the LEFT. #2 is in the MIDDLE and #3 is on the RIGHT.

The results of the test should be:

Accelerator Pedal Condition Resistance in k Ohms

Completely released Approx. 2
Partially released 2 -10
Completely depressed Approx. 10
If test shows "No Good", replace Throttle Sensor.

Adjustment:

If Throttle Sensor is replaced or removed, it is necessary to install in proper position, by

following the procedures shown below:

1. Install Throttle Sensor body in the Throttle Chamber. Do not tighten bolts. Leave
bolts loose.
2. Connect Throttle Sensor harness connector.
3. Start engine and warm up sufficiently.
4. Measure output voltage of Throttle Sensor using voltmeter.
5. Adjust by rotating Throttle Sensor body so that the output voltage is 0.45 - 0.55 volts.
6. Tighten mounting bolts.
7. Disconnect Throttle Sensor harness for a few seconds and then reconnect it.
With the locking tab of the connector pointing up and looking at the back of the
connector as the wires from the wire harness go into it, terminal #1 is the one on the
LEFT. #2 is in the MIDDLE and #3 is on the RIGHT.

Output voltage is measured across terminals #2 and #3 from the harness side of the
connector.

A&W

Question:

Do you know the procedure for checking out the TPS and adjusting the idle?

Answer:

For the full blown check, it has a few steps involving the ECU and it's connections to
the TPS. We're going to skip those, assuming they aren't a factor. Also, trying to
describe which terminal on the ECU harness to check would be a nightmare w/o a
diagram. This is hard enough as it is!

Checking for the correct voltage, ground circuit, and resistance are not that tough. So
here ya' go...

POWER SUPPLY:

Disconnect the TPS harness and look at the terminal side of the connector. (this is the
side with the terminal connectors in it) With the locking tab pointing UP, the terminals
are A, B, and C, from left to right. (Confusing, huh?) This is measured from the male
half of the connection that goes to the engine.

Turn the ignition ON and measure the voltage between terminal C and ground. It should
be approx. 5v.

GROUND CIRCUIT:

Ignition OFF. Check for continuity between terminal A and ground. Continuity should
exist.

RESISTANCE:

Make sure that resistance between terminal A and B of the connector half (female) that
goes to the TPS changes when opening the Throttle Valve manually.

The results of the test should be:

Accelerator Pedal Condition Resistance in k Ohms

Completely released Approx. 2

Partially released 2 -10
Completely depressed Approx. 10
If test shows "No Good", replace Throttle Sensor.

VOLTAGE ADJUSTMENT:

1. Loosen the 2- bolts that hold the TPS.

2. Start engine and warm up sufficiently.
3. Measure output voltage of Throttle Sensor using voltmeter.
4. Adjust by rotating Throttle Sensor body so that the output voltage is 0.45 - 0.55 volts.
5. Tighten mounting bolts.
6. Disconnect Throttle Sensor harness for a few seconds and then reconnect it.

Note: With the locking tab of the connector pointing up and looking at the back of the
female connector as the wires go into it, terminal #1 is the one on the LEFT. #2 is in the
MIDDLE and #3 is on the RIGHT.

Output voltage is measured across terminals #2 and #3 from the harness side of the
connector.

Adjusting the idle is pretty straight forward:

Disconnect the TPS harness and turn the idle adj. screw on the IAA to get the car to idle
at 650 rpm. Reconnect the TPS harness and your beloved should purr at 700 or so rpm.
(The Factory manual gives a +/- tolerance of 50 rpm.) The IAA is at the back of the
intake manifold. You can see it standing over the right (passenger side for N.A.) fender
and looking at the funky device with the dime size recess for the adj. screw.

Regards,

A&W

TPS Adjustment

The throttle position sensor, shift lever, and throttle valve cable are critical to proper
operation of the transmission. If one or more of these are out of adjustment or if the TPS
is noisy, shifting will be erratic. Before performing any adjustments, check the
transmission fluid level and sniff the fluid. Do not make any adjustments until the fluid
level is correct, and burned fluid has been replaced.

The service manual says to adjust for 0.8-1.2V at idle. On many trucks, this voltage is
too low, resulting in TCC chatter at moderate throttle loads. The TPS is not officially
adjustable but the mounting holes are slotted and the body can be rotated slightly.
Adjustment is relatively easy, and requires only a digital voltmeter and a few hand
tools. A little adjustment goes a long way...

TPS wire color code:

* Black = ground
* Orange/dark blue stripe (center pin) = signal
* Purple/white stripe = 5V power
Testing and adjusting the TPS:

1. With the key "OFF", unplug the connector from the TPS.

2. Turn the key "on" and insert DVM probes into the connector to reach the connector
pins. Short pieces of wire or paper clips can be used to extend the DVM probes for
reaching into the connectors.

3. Read from the purple wire to the black wire (these should be the outside pins).
Power should be 5V with the key "on".

4. Turn the key "off" and plug the connector back onto the TPS

5. Insert the leads from the digital volt meter into the back of the TPS connector. The
DVM negative probe goes into the back of the connector cavity with the black wire.
The positive DVM probe goes into the back of the connector cavity with the orange
signal wire.

NOTE: Push the probes into the rear of the connector until the probe tips reach the
metal connector pins.

6. Loosen the TPS mounting screws

7. With the engine off and key on: Adjust the TPS position for 1.2 to 1.5V on the
signal wire with the throttle at the idle position - more voltage makes more TC clutch
pressure, too much will set a fault code. Often, adjusting for 1.4 to 1.5V at idle will cure
TC clutch chatter under light load conditions. NOTE: The factory setting is 1.2V max,
so proceed carefully.

8. Tighten the TPS screws, slowly open the throttle to the WOT position and then
return return to idle. Watch for voltage jumps - the voltage should change smoothly
from the idle value to at least 3.5V at WOT (5 volts is all you should be able to get). If
the sensor voltage jumps or drops unexpectedly - replace the sensor or try the filter
modification below.

Posted to a TPS thread on the TDRoundtable by Bill Kondolay (Bill is one the true
transmission experts out there):
Note: I did some minor editing to put it into the context of this web page - Dave.

Before anyone follows advice on how to adjust the TPS keep in mind that every
action has a reaction. You can adjust the TPS voltage to pretty much what ever you
want without following Chryslers procedures. Before starting, always record your
original idle voltage; you must have a baseline to start from.
Make adjustments in small increments. First remove the TPS, knock out the 2 steel
sleeves, with a small file oblong the holes, and install the tps sensor. Always start with
the original voltage you had; as you increase your voltage your OD and TCC lock up
will start to come in later and later. The down side of doing this is that when you slow
down or if you remove your foot from the throttle, the TCC will not unlock unless you
step on the brake pedal or your vehicle speed drops below a certain setting.
TPS Filter Construction - Bring a dead TPS back to life

Steve Clayton Gemcuttr1@cs.com sent this simple technique for filtering the output
of a noisy TPS.

I did some experimenting and found that an electrolytic capacitor (440 microFarads, 35
Vdc) with the negative side connected to the SIG RETURN wire and the positive side
hooked to the TPS SIG wire gave me absolutely *troublefree* operation! Even though
my TPS is basically trashed, the capacitor filters out almost all of the electrical noise,
and my auto tranny once again shifts like factory-new!

I dug into the wire bundle coming out of the PCM and soldered the capacitor as close to
the plug as I could manage - thinking some "TPS problems" may actually be
wiring/connector problems in disguise.

Results with other values were:

* 220 mF, 35 Vdc - too little filtering. Tranny a little flaky.

* 1000 mF, 35 Vdc - far too much filtering, and a 1.5 second delay in transmission
shift response crept in.

BTW, I might add that since I added the capacitor, my cruise control hasn't dropped out
even once in 15K miles - usually a twice-per-week occurence (I drive 1500 miles a
week). What I believe is that the dropout problem is caused by an electrical noise spike
from the TPS - which is *exactly* what the capacitor filters out.

Please consider this tip a free gift for oilburner fans! The capacitor costs just 40 cents,
and I hope it will save TDR members and others lots of money! After all, you can by a
lot of #2 diesel for $200! :-)