S~~

MODEL 201

5

G

"*

Ferm K6053 ( 158)

.411 Ii ieht s Res, r ed

5EWI

G

M

CHI

E

201K

The I GER 201 K i another in a long line of product

re lllting from the kill and ability of I GEH

eraftsmen.

*A Tude Mark of THE INGER MANUF CT RING CO.

HE T 0 OW, _ SINGER 20J ~IACHl:\,E

Ull 0,,11 a m ar-hjne w it h a trud i tiou uf snpericr cr aft man-hip a tradition )"I1l1 " ill r""lIgni se in t he mooth r unninc of lhi~ .('" i,,~ mur-hiu- which,

o peru tiul! ei t lre r Inf" <lnl liT I,.LI·I-" .. urd, form. a pcrf{'("l 10("1.. ~ti u-h ,

TO GET THE 'ro~

:'1JOUIL

FRO~l 1

SINGER

'l. uu arc en tit.led to . C" in~ Ic-von s w hcn ) nu b evome t he 0\\ n e r of a new 1', EH. A killed,

1"\ GER-trained tea 'her ppr,orwlly guide, ~ o u nnrl ail yo u ill learning' the fund um e n tuls of home ewing, Otller eo ur ., uibrur-ing all pl!a'r of home ewing are u v nil ahl e at len ('u~l.

2

leER . ER \'1 E

'Yherever you go you" ill find expert, tl'petltiable I GER* ervi c nearby. . I GEl{ is intcre ted in hell ing you keep your J.\ EN ewing :\fachine in top condition. Tit a t j, wh) you hould al wa y call your INGER 1';\'1: L CE TRE if your fin .hin ever r quires arljn lment or repair. lreu you call your l'i'G ,R . £\11:.'1 G' E TR' 011 can be nrc of obtaining the service of a traiucd I. IGER repair mall uud can he as UT d of warr aut ed IN'GER* p art, when ne ed d! Look for the familiar red •. "Trade Iark on your L. GER E\\'r'i'G CEKTR ... (lIIU the ev r read), !i\G'f{ ervice ar.

wcr to YOllr sewin ... needs js at your T"{G' R Ei TRE. There you will find a wide ewing n ce itre and not jon, , ewing Inst.ruct ion and guidance and ervicc for coverirubutton. hemstitching, making belt and buckle, to mention u fpv,'. Look in your I lcphnue directory

tinder EVlT.'H; "A IHl\ IE OlUPA"Y

for the E\'i,'IXG C X HE nearc t you.

3

E ER

OR THE WO 1A

no EW

EI ctr] al ODD ction fur [achinl"

ELECTRICAL I 'FOR lATIO

The I:'\GER * Eleeteic Molor

i~ lor-a ted at t he L •• ·k of the machine. and e a n be up pli d fur operation un alternating or dirert c urrcnt. Ordermu. t <t at th,' r at alug ue number of the motor, ur 1 h ,ultage, a .. nd in the ou e of al'ternut.iug currt','l the number of cyd .. ",

Berur.. n I'rting EI lric Plull.-

lop 'UTC that ,,,ltall-t' and number of

~"'I -t amped o n motor num plntl'

art' w it hjn ruuue marked on e lertri« mct e r inst all ilL) pll'rtriC' powt'r cutupu n y ,

Pu h three-pin 'af,t}' pIll!.!; into thr pin terminal hlo ck t right of machine and connect plug at 01 he ... nd of COTd to electric Up ply puint.

peed, onrroller

The _p cd uf muchi 11

rt'j!ulatcd by

amount of prf' -ur on foot r'IR Lculler or knee r-ont rol lr-r.

tA TIO

Wh D you bllYefi,ni hcd your sewing always diconnect the' plug from rh electric supply !l0inl.

L [ ., ][ T

'ro Turn Ligl.l 'on" or "off."

To turn on light, reach (ncr machine arm and turn witcl,

B. Fig. ] e lo ck w ise. To ex tiu r ,

uish light turu switch ant i . ..Il1ck " ise.

D II.4b52 I--;/:.;!, HI mot'illg and reptucing bulb.

5

K.4654

To Remove Bulb

Cra plight ocket 0 t h a t tbumb extend' o er witch B. Pre shade wiLh thumb at A to release shade Crom two e a t che , and Iide it h alfw a y out of . hade holder C. Pre bulb into socket and a t .'t1 me I ime turn bulb over frum machine as f'ar as it will go to unlock pin D ( ec Figs. 3 aud i). 'i'i.·itbdraw the bulb.

Loclang G' u nlocking bulb pill.

To In ert New Bulb

Press bulb into ocket and turn it 0\ er t ward machine until pill D enter notch il~ or-k e t ( ce fig. 3). Heturn hade to its normal po ition a hOW11 in Fig. 1.

Flg.,t. TllsnJillg bulb i.(sockct.

6

IF I HfNE I ELECTRIC LLY OPERATED

Rai (' pre er foot by mean of pre er bar lifter J to pr v nt injury to the foot G and fed H.

P13('e u piece DC material nnd J:: p~e er foot and let ~he foot down upon it. Tum on electric curreut und, jf tb combination knee and foot controller j in tailed a a knee controller, press knee lever to t h right. If controller i~ placed on tIt floor to Le u ed a a foot ontroller, pr . do wn on pe dul of controller. The peed of the m ae h in e rs controll d entirely by the amount of pressure upptied to the controller. Operate machine in this way, wi thuut bping threaded, until you have become ceu to med to I!;uiding the materi al lind 01' mting til controlle.r.

7

Fig. 5. FTQJlt t'lew of mach ine,

VI hen the machine is uncovered, th hand attachment will I e found to he out of working POSltWIl :J. shown in Fig. 6. Pull the small pring tu.d 2, and turn the handle back until the lever 1, enter the socket 3. Press Lack the hinged fiun er 4, Fi .... 7 between the spoke_ of the wheel, The machine is now ready for working, as shown in Fig. 7.

NOTE. Before replacing the cover or the machine in it

case, the lever should be disengaged and the handle placed in the p o eition shown in fig. 6.

Fig. 6.

IF lACHINE IS HAND OPERATED

TO OPERATE THE HAND

111 ACHINE

Place a piece of rna t.e ri a I under the pre er foot Q., Fig. 5, and lower the latter by mean. of the lift r R.

Now turn t.he handle over £~o.m you to work the machine, without being threaded, until you are accllstomed to guiding the material with the left band.

8

113973

Fig,7.

IF ~IACHINE I TR ADLE OPERATED

00 en the hand "heel by turning top motion crew 1, Fig. 12, 0 er toward you. pl ce both feet upou the treadle and turn the hand wh cl ov r to wurd you, at the s ame lime allowing the fect to move freely and lightly with the motion of th treadle. Ccntinue to do this until a regular and ca y movement is acquired and you arc able to work the treadle so that you can re- tart the muchiue with the wheel turning toward you.

-\\ Len familiar with the working mnv _ meut, tighten th hand wheel by turning the top motion cr w over from you, and place a piece of material under the pre er foot Q Fig. 5. Lower the latter by mean of the lifter and again work the rna hin • \I-ithout being threaded, until you are Beet! to med to guiding the material.

The belt hould be o nly ju t tight enough nct vto lip. H too 1005 ,_ short n.md rejoin.

B LT HIFTER

'I'his de vi . implifie thr "jug off and rcpluciug the belt. To throw off the b It, move the belt hift.er to the I ft ( e Fin', 8), working the tr aliI at th

arne time. To replace th helt, work the treadle slowly with the band wheel tllrning toward you, wh n a. revolution o rt wo of the whee! will bring the belt huck in to its place.

9

Fig ..

N.EEDLE AND THREAD

in ize 9, 11,11,16,

or perfect stitching the thread hould be elected according to the fabric to be stitch d and the needle must be of the correct size for the thread which mu t pa s freely through eye of needle-

Ier t the correct needle according to the chart on page 11. Be sure t hu t the needle i. not blunt or bent.

I

Flat Side

Flat Side

TO sr THE EEDLE

Rai e need! bar to its hin hes t position and loosen thumb screw in needle lamp. In ert needle with Hllat side to tbe left up into the needle clamp B a far as it win go, t h n righren thumb

crew A.

FIg. 9. Setting the Needle,

10

CHART SH'OWING THE RElATIONSH IP OF TYPES OF FABRICS, THREAD AND NEEDLE SIZES AND MACHINE STITCHES TO THE INCH

Types of Fabrics

Top SlItcl!lng

Ve.v thin Silk. M"slin, Cambric, LlghtwC'.~ht DeHeate Fabr.cs, etc.

Fine Calicoes. Linens Shirl;ngs, Fine Silk Goods, ete.

Plasllc Materials

ShlrtlniS. Sheetings. Bleached Calicoes, Silk and Gener-al Domestic Goods. Li,ht Woollen Goods and all cla •• es of general work

All kinds of heavy Calicoes. Drill, Wool· len Goods, etc.

Tickings, Heavv Woollen.

Boy.' Clothing. Cor,sels,

Mantle.. Heavy Coals, and Clothing generally

Trousers) CIODks. Hnavy

Ba,gs, Coarse Cloths, Canvas, Duck~ Heavy Goods of any texture

Thread Siles

MochlneStilch I, per Inch

100 to 150 Cotton.

50 Silk, I

80 Mereerised Darnins eoitoR

80 to 100 Cation, 50 Silk.

50 M eree Ised Dar-nl ng Calton

50 to 80 M'ercerised Cotton

60 to 80 Colton, 50 Silk.

50 Sylko

40 to 60 Colton

Ne.dle II

Sizes :-------y--------

Inside S@iuns

8

, 24 to 40 Cation. l'B or 19 60 to 80 Linen

4{) to 60 Linen, or /19 or 21 I very coarse cotton I

20

9

25 to so

16

11

20

10

11

12

12

16

14

10

16

12

8

10

6

When ordering needles, always speclf.,. "Clu~ and Var "ty 15,,1" and state Ihe SIze and q"antlty required. You will obtain the best stilchinll" rnulla from your Sewing Mac~ine if il is fitled with. SINGER· Needl •.

11

See Fig. 10.

Raise take-up lever 5 to it. hjgh{'~t point. Place pool of thread 011 spool pill.

Lead thread into thread guide J.

Do wu and from ritrht tu 1 fl b e tw ccu ten iOI1 elise 2.

Into the loop of t lie take-up . pring 3 "',,) to the riuht until it enter. the fork 4.

L p and from right to left throllgh hoi!'

in take-III' I e , (']' 5.

Down t hro ng h guide 6 on fnr'p plate'. Down through ~uirle 7 i nLO guide 8.

'rom ri ... ht 10 left t hrnugh the eye nf I he nerd l e,

Draw ubo ut 1 \I 0 incb e-, of t hrp"rI t h roujr h th eye of the needle "ill, whic h to heuin sew iug.

UPPER THREADING

12

TO REMOVE BOBBIN

Raise the needle to it higbe t point.

Draw to the left tbe slide (C) in the bed of the machine and remove the bobbiu wit h the thumb and forefing r of the left hand, as shown in Fig. 11.

Fig. 11. Removing the Bobbin.

TO WI D BOBBIN. ee Fig. 12.

1. Place bohbin on spindle with pin of pindle entering hole in right ide of bobbin.

2. Loek bobbin in place by pr ing bobbin winder down until latch 15, Fig. 12 engage.

3. Place spool of thread on pool pin 12 ..

Draw thread under and between ten ion disc 13.. Lead thread up through hole ill bobbin 1 from the inside.

4. Hold hand wheel 16 and 100 en kmrrled crew 11 by turning it over toward you.

5. Hold end of thread and operate machine a for ewing. Continue to hold end of thread until it break off.

now ten ion disc to control flow of thread, Do not gllide or hold thread wben winding bohbin.

The bobbin winder will top automaticaUy when the bobbin i filled.

13

16

Fig. l'2. l!"i~ldillg the Bobtnn.

Remove bobbin from pindle and tighten knurled screw 17.

If pres ur e of bobbin winder pulley against bub of hand wheel is in ufficient for winding the bobbin, pres down bobbin winder nntil latch 15, Fig. 13 drops and holds it in position. Loosen adjusting

crew 13, ig. 13. it.h forefinger, pu h

back upper end of slotted plate 19 a far as it win go, as shown in F,ig. 13, and at the same time, pre bobbin winder pulley again t hub of hand w b cl. Tight. en adjusti njr new 8. If thread does not" ind ev e n] y on bobbin, 100 en sere" which hold tension br ack t 13, Fi .... 12 in po ition. f nv e bra ke t to the It>ft if

bobbin wind high on right; movc

bracket to the right if bobbin 'wind high on left. When bracket is properly centred, thread will wind evenly acres bobbin.

Bo hhins call be wound while machine is . ewing. Follow in traction on page 13 omitting it m 4.

Fig. 13. .-1 JjHslmvJlI of Bobbin Winder.

TO REP

E BOBBIN

Hold til bobbinb t w e n the thumb and I'o r e fi n g er of tb left band, th thread drawing from right to left, a sbo wu in Fig. 14.

Fie.L], Replaring tile Bobbin,

Place th bubbin into the bobbin '11 e and draw the t hr ad into th blot 1, ig. 15 ill the buhhiu en • II hnwn, Dr u w t I! e t h re u d h a c kward b tween

the bobbin case and the t n ion pring until it reaches the notch 2, Fig. 16, then pull the thread toward the r iaht, a ,hOWIl

Fig. lG. Bobbin Case Threaded.

in Fig. 16. Fig. 17.

10 e the Ii d e, a sho v n .in

Fig. ] 7. Under Threading Completed,

]6

TO PREPARE FOR EWING

Huv thl' thread lake-up lever at il~ hig-he t posit io n, then, wi th th~ I"ft

hu nd, hold tIll' end of the ne dl thread, leaving it hI. d. from t he hand to t h uced!e. Tnrn t.lie huud wheel over toward you until the needle move down and up again to it highe t po. irion, thus cut e lung t hc hobhin t hr eud. Druv up th needle thread nnd th Lobbin thread will COlli - up with it through the hole if! th,· throat plate as '. h"I' n ill Fig. 18.

La r hOlh thread back under the pre er foot diagonally acro s the feed, to the right or left, depending upon which ide of th n edJe th material i to be located 80 that when the pre CI' foot i lowered, t he thread. will be firml • held be t weeu the feed and the pre ser foot.

17

TO TART EWI 'G

See Fi!:. 1Q.

Be -ure to have thread take-up lever 5, Fig. 10 iu it" hi g-h("t position.

The t.hro at plut e has guide lines Ior xe u rn "i,lLh gauged Ir o m centre of needle hole, awl cross line for 311g1ng squur e co r ner ....

Place rnut.e ri al beneath the prc,,,cr foot G, turn the hand wheel to bring the point of the nc dlc into the material, th n low r the pre" er foot by means (If pH. cr bar Iif'rer J, and st.ar t to bCW.

:'0 me mat ri als, such a, sof't fini-h e d "hrl'r~, nylons,

r ) , tricot. and o t her 1;'18.ti.· and pongy textiles, 1" quire a ~lij!"ht amount of a: ~i. tanc e in f ('ding d uring , "inl! operation .

Howe er, to! uiuch pull wil] stretch lL -eum, crea t irregular ~lilchjllg and hend the n ·cdle. [ust, materiuls rC(1 uire ouly guiding fur be tell illg r e ult .

Fig. 19. To SI(lrl Setoing,

]8

TO TUR

top the machine when th needle eye, making it upwarr] sf.rok.e, i till in t he Inbric, Hoi c t hr- pr sser foot mull turn the w nr k n desired" u ing the needle 35

3 pivot. then Io wer t h e pre .r foot.

B T] G

Th Ionge t titr-h, ·0. 6 011 the titch indicator, i u tisfactnr-y for ba ting and i nolly re muv d by clipping eery _ixth

titch and withdrawing the long co atin uo us thread.

1ilachinu La tiug i firmer and more even than that clone by band ill addition to being milch q nick r.

TO SEW BIA

E r

e a bart, ti.tch and a light 1;1, tension a possible all the needle t Irrcad so thaL the thread is Joo enough in tit ,Po III to allow the good to. rretclr if ncce :ary.

Fig. so. To Regulate Stitch Length,

19

TO RE lOVE THE WORK

top the machine with the thread takeup lever 5, Fls, 10 at it higbe t point. Rais e the pre er foot b y mean of pre er Lar lifter J, Fig. 19, draw tb fabric back and to the left and ever the threads on t hreud cutter F, Fig. 1'9 PIne cnd of t hre a ds uuder presser foot. When the m ar hine i 1..I0t in use, r ai e the p re"er foot by menns of pre er bur lifter to prrvt'ut iuj ury to the presst'r foot and t he f'e e d H Fig. 19.

C TION:

\\ hen the mae hiue is not in IlOC, r ai e the presser foot by means of pre er har lifter J to prevent inj ury to the presser fUOL and the feedH, Fig. 19.

TO REGULATE LENGTH OF STITCH AND DIRECTIO OF FEED. See F11J to.

The machine can be adjusted to make

from 6 to 30 st.i tr-h to the inch, a

indicated U} the nu mer als on the stitch indicator pIa teo

Louseu screw A and lower it to the bottom of the slo t., 1 hen mo v lever B until it top cdl!;p i~ lev!'! with the figure denoting the number of . ti t.ches de ired per inch. Raise crew A as far as possi hlc, and tighten it. Thu er, the machine will make t1 indicated number of s ti tchc in a forward direction. If it is d sired to rever. e the direction of the stitching, rai e 1 v e r B a' far as po ible, and the rna hine will make the same number of . titcbc m a backward direction.

20

TO REG LATE PRE S RE ON l'IfATERI L

For ordinary e wiug, the pressure of t lre pre ser foot on the mat rial eldom requires changing, Heavy material re<Tuire more pre ur e than light weight ma te ri als. Til pres ure should he only heavy enough to prevent the material from risin« with the needle anrl III cnuhh-

Fig. :11. Thumb Sp'ew for Regutating Pressure 011 Presser Foot.

t he ff'ed to """C the work "Ionl!; evenly. To increase the pre sure, t n r n tit thumb screw W, Fig. 21 do -kwise or downward, To Iiahten the pres urc, turn the thumb screw upward.

THRE D TEN 10 '

Fur perfect stitching, the tension 011 the needle and bobbin thrt>ads must he heavy enough 10 pull the thread tu the r en tre of the t hickn es of t h make a firm li 1 . 11, as

Fig. 2t. Perfect Stitching.

If the needle thread He st raigh t along the top idc of the ma t eriul, the tension

21

Fig, :23. Imperfect St1tclllJ1[?

on the needle thread i too heav y or t h ten ion on t.b e bobbin thread is too light, a' sho « n in Fig. 23.

If the bobbin thread lie t+aig ht along th under ide of the material, the tc nsio n on the needle thread i too light or the ten.ion 011 the bobbin thread is too he avy, a' shown in Fig. 24.

Fig. 24. Lmperfer: Stitching,

TO REG LATE 'EEDLE THREAD TE T TON See Fig es.

The tension on the needl thread call be tested only when the pre.ser foot i down.

The nuurer al "0" to "9" on dial D" indicate the d i rfercnt dellrees of tension that carr. be ohtained.

\Vben the ten iOD Las her n corr ect.ly se t note the number at the ind icu to r line C, 0 that this - tt iug may be regained

hould the t nsio n be alter d for pf't'ial work.

To increa ten iOD, turn th· thumb nut A grud uully to t h right (clockwise) until the required teu,jun is obtained.

Each higher number denot tension.

incr ea cd

22

To de rea e tension, turn the thumb nut A gradually to th Jeft (count rclo ckwi e) until the required ten ion i obtained. Ea h lower numb r denote' less ten. ion,

The ten ion indi .ator C i marked with the sian + and -. which indicate the direction in which to turn the thumb nut A for more or le'~ tcuslon,

Fig, ;!.5. To Regulate Needle Thread Tension.

TO REG LATE BOBBIN THREAD TE ' 10

Th ten ion on the bobbin thread i-;

regulated by r e w F, Fig. 36, which i ne ar ... t the 'entre of the t II .ion pring on the nut ide of the hobLin cuse, To increase the ten ion, tUTIl crew F o vcr to the riJ!ht. To dcr r case the ten ion, turn t his crew to the .Ipit.

'I, hen the ten ion on the bobbin t hre nd ha been once prop rly adj u ted, it i eldo m nee _Bry to chnnue it. as a corre at - titcb can u ually he obtained hy varying the ten. ion on the needle thread.

23

TO DI A EMBLE

:'I'EEDLE TREAD TE ION

Turn t humb nut B to the left unt il t lie nu m e r al 0 on numbered dial D btol" o p pusi t e t h centre line between the plu and rniu u sign, then pre in the dial to ,Ii-engage pin (; in the thumb nu t Fro rn tile dial, and remove thumb nut and diul, -trip washer E, ten ion 'THing F,

indicator G and lCll~jon J i"e as e mhlv R which inc1ud the thread take-up spring, thread ~t13rd plate and two d isr-s.

~Ol!.": It i not necessary to re mo 'v e

tud 0 from the machine arm La d isassemble the thread t n ion. It j s sho w n removed ill Fig. 26 only for the purpo e of Illust.rnvion.

Fig. 2(J. Need!« Thread TeliSIOJI Disosseml.lcd:

24

TO R E.IBLE

E DLE THREAD E.. ION

(See Figs. 27 and 28).

Fir t mak ure that ten. io n rclea ing pill, J, only the end of which i ho wn in Fi". 2:6, i in place.in tud O. Place the two t n-Ion di. c I. with their flat t hreadhcuring side 'together in po itriou all thr ad guard ii, then pa eyelet. of the t hr ad tuk -up . pring under the thread guard, having the coils of the p ring

above th ten ion disc a ho wn in

Fi • 27. uide the ten ion di c a embly

on to th t ud 0 that c. tenvion K, Fig. 26 of the thread !!"uard enter the hole in the ma hine arm, and tbe tail (iuside the col l] of t h thread take-up pri ug' enter one of th groove in the tud. _ ext r epluce indicnt nr G witb the large open

Fig. 27. TWSIOII Disc Assembly.

ide fa ·ing ! he end of the lud 00 that the plu and miuu mur ks will be at the top (with the rniuu ign at th left) and hold the part, thu B embled, again t the houlder of tud O. Th n in crt ten ion pring F in the indicator with the first (half) coil of the pring tmddling the lower half of the tud. Guide stop

wa her E on to the tud 0 that the

ex t ension will be abov the ten ion st u d,

25

Fig. :!8. Reassembling Needle Thread Tensiun.

If the . pri ng and s t o p \I." -her art' in co rrer-t po ition, extension will r-le ar the first (half) coil of tension pring a

hO\>TI in Fig. 29.

l\ext pl ac the numbered dial on the . tud 0 that n urn r al 2 i oppo ito the

top wa her extension, then IlLl h the dial to com pre s the pring 0 that the thumb nut cau be turned on to the t ud , carefully guiding pin (; in thl" thumb nut

into one of the holes of numbered dial D. Th 11 proceed to adj u t the tension a in trueted below.

Fzr:. 2? -"top Washer

(/ltd Tension .'>pnn!:.

TO ADJ T EEDLE BREAD TE'1O

Lower t.he presser bar and t.nr n thumb nut B to the left unt il numeral 0 on number d dial D LO)JS opposite centre line on in dica or G. hre ad the t n ion and pull the thread through the tension di c to t e t the amount of ten ion all the thread at the "0" po Irion. t this point there hould be a light pull on the

26

thread to indicut . that tber i. a minimum ten ion, whi h gradually inn a e with the turn of the thumb nut to t he riOTht, providing • flill range of t nsion from light to h('av, \"itmn one revolut iou of the thumb nu t. If the pulli too st.roujr for 11 minimum tension, pr 5. in the numbered dial to di eu!!;,!!!: th pin in the thumb nut from the diul, and reo et the pin. in one of t h hole tv thc Jeft of the pre ious setting.

Thi re etting of the pin will prod ur e Ie s ten ion at z roo Repeat t his proce. until the minimum de ired ten ion i. obtained. On the other haud, hould ther he no ten ion at zero; pre in the dial and r t th pin in one of the hole to the right of the prcviou CUing, repeating t hi pro e urrtil a li ht minimum teu iou i obtain d.

TO DJ T TE 10 ON THREAD TAKE- P PRJ C

The t eusion on thread t ak e-up pring T, jg. 28 hould be jilt ufficient to ake ~p the lack of t he n e dl thread

u nt i] th ye of the needle r ache the

gororl~ in it~ descent.

II:' the tension Of! the thread tnkc-up spring re'.1 uire adj LI trncnt, remove the t!'11 ion disC' assembly, di engage the end of th . prlng from the groove in the tension stud, revolve the pring and plar-e it end in th .. groov e which produce th

orrcct tension.

27

IF CORRECT snrcm :G IS OT OBTAINED

If bobbin thread tension has been ilisturbed, or a correct stitch cannot be obtained wit.hout a very heavy or very light needle thread tension, then the following pror ed ure i recomm nd e d :

Uaing _ize 50 merccrised thread ill needle and on bobbin, adj ust, needle thread t.e nsion as instructed o n p"ge 22.

Then tUTU lelbiol1 thumb nut to ",~" uud, wit lr t \\ 0 t hir-k ne se of thin material in machine, adjust bub bin thread t en sio n as irist ru c ted ou page 23, until ,.tir.·h is coneclly locked ill material.

A wide range of materials and thread 5 can now be accomrnud u t ed without further •. djust m eu t of b o hhin thread ten-ion.

] GER EW:r, G f:ENTRE

28

DARNING ( ee J..'j<T. 30).

Raj e needle to it." hizhe l point, turn machin back on it hill e. un crew knurled .r w A, as far a i will go, and roo e crank B down -o that the screw A "ill nter the upper hole C. The crew hould then he e .urely tightened. Th fe d i now inaeti e und will not impede fre movement or tile work. R tore machine to its working po. ition ami rai c the pr CT bar. Remo the pre .. er fool. and fit pring Darning Foot No. 121091~ but do not tighten the thumb . crew . • tr, teh tightly the article to b repair din an embroidery hoop and place below the needle by tilting the edge of the hoop. Then lower the pres cr bar by mean of it lifter, and adjn t the height of th darning foot to allow jn t ufficient par for the free mo ement of the work in hand. After ad. justment, tiahten the thumb rew securely. ow move the hoop backward aud forward by the hand until the hole or damaged part i complete)

r- overed \, ith titehing in on direction. Then turn the work and titch aero to complete th dum. After darning, reinsert lind firmly tighten the crew A in the lower hole, and replace the presser foot for ordinary s wing,

29

Fig. 30.

E~mROmERY

For surfu« embroider)" remove the pre ser foo t to give II clear vi W of the

titching. 01' la e embroidery, i.e.

open work, remove tbe ordinary pre" er foot and fit pring 'oot o . 12109·~. For embroidery th feed

bould be lowered and the work handled a advised in the preceding paragraph.

EWI G

Breakl na of nce dl minht be au I'd hy

1. Improper i"e of II dle for thread

and mnrerial-c- ee page H.

2. Bent nee dle,

3. Pulling of material wh n titchi nu.

4. _ eedlc t ri kinrr iurpro p 1"1)' fa t ned prc_ er fool or utt achurenr.

5. Cro ing thick scam with too sumll a n dl

Rna 'in of '01' dl ... thread mi ht be <'u 11., d
by:
1. _\ knot in l hr .. "rI.
:!. Jm p ro per Il,r • cling- e pag 12.
3. rpp r t e n ion too light ce page 22
and 23. 4. Needl set incorrec tlv-e- e e rage ]0.

5. ccdle blunt or bent.

6. Thread ton co ar for ne tile c ee

pug 1.

GGE TlO'

7. Roughened hoi in threat plate.

B. Improper arr ang ment of thr ad to start ~e" ing- f' page 18.

Bream" of bobbin lin ad mi;!ht b cau ed by :

1. I rnproper thrcildilll!: of hobhin ('If"o'e pag 15,

2. Bobbin t hr e ad t en ion too ti!!hl-. e e pane 23.

3. BobLin wound un e v 1'(11).

kipping of litl'lH~ miaht b aU"Nl hy :

1. Improp r e u.ing of n,·,·rlll'-~I·(' pag 10.

2. Needle blunt or bent.

3. Needl too small for t.hre ad-> ee

page U.

k N cedI rubhine pre cr foot.

30

PROTECTIO 'AGJ\I T R T D 1\1 CE

Lint and fluff, if not rcmov ed prior to toruge will, durinc humid period, alt o rb nnd hold moi ture and thn •• I' elerat.e Ttl 1 damage to hij!;hty poli hed rhr ad handling and other exposed part s. The teut uf r u t damage would depend upon the length of lime the machine re muiucd in idle torae e where there i no ventilation. . udden drop in t mpera ture w ill CUU" moi trrre to form ou purl whi '11, if not protected by u film of uil, would r u land dumage while in .'torag .

Proper storage cure sugg' ts thorough hru h-clcuuiug to rcruo ve all trnces of' Hnt and fluff, followed by wubbillg of all the expo ell parts in Fig. 32 and 33 with a Iin t-Iree brush sa t nrut erl Ilith IN E ROil.

51 NGER Lint Brush way br pwrch ased at yom' local SINGE/t SEWING CENTRE.

31

Fig .. 11. Front View, Showwg 01/Wg Points.

Remove face plate A, Fi a, 31, by taking out screw B and slipping plate over 5 r w D, Fig. 32. After oiling replace face plate. Draw to the left the Ii de in the bed of the machine, a shown in Fig. 31, while the

TO OIL MACHINE and TAND

Th Arm 11001 Pin C is screwed {or insertion in rhe left plu .. ged hole and it is also previded with a screw driver 101. machine i \0 "erl "ontinuously, it

hanld b oiled daily. If mo der ar ely

u e d , an orca ional oiling i' u fficien t. Apply one drop of oil to each of the places indicated in Fig .. 31, 32, 33, 34 a nrl 35 and ('u~efull y cl e an th machine to Insure mooth and satisfactory performUIlO-C. Oil holes lire provided in the machine for bearing which iauno t be directly reached.

32

thread take-up lever (5, Fig. 10) i at it. highest po si tio n, and, after r rno ing the lint and du t which may have ac .u muluted (see instructions on page 31), apply une drop of oil to the sewing hook race in the bobbin c a e, a indica ted hy arrow "A" in Fig. 33, aud n few drops to the oil hole "B" ill Fig. 33. Then close the slide.

Fi«. 32. Face Plate Hemoued, Showing Oiling Points.

B A

Fig, 33. Oiling the Sewing Hook.

33

F~If. J4. OillHl{ Points iu n,'d of Madllll,.

o oil the par ts undern ath the bed of Ihe machine. turn till' mn..!lillC har-k on it hinge and apply oil to the oil hol and bearings, inrllr-: ted ill Fig. 34. The !!'f'31' roucealed b) th p;cru: cover (E2, Fig. 3,1) are oiled through tln- oil hole ( ~. Fig. 31), The gl'ar~ ~o"'·Nd .. r] by !!,ear co ve r (D •. Fig. 34) are oiled through the 'pace ju t abov .. thi~ cover, as Indicated hy "rN)\, (D2, Fig. 35).

fter oilin,!!: "1 D2. rotate the hand wheel toward ~ou to di tribute the oil on these ueurs. To oil the stand, apply II drop uf uil to the centres upon \\ hich the band wher-l and treadle wurk , and to both end of the pit rn an rod connecting the treadle "ill, the band wheel. '\ftl"1' oil;,,!!, run the machine rapidly for a fl'w minute 0 that the oil mDy reach the bearing. eglc('t to oiJ the muchine will shorten i.ts life am] can e you trouble and aunoyance. Alway U61' S1NGER * f}il. Inferior oil clog, til. bearings, prevents 'cfficienl working. anil call t's rapid. wear of the m cbanjsm,

TO CLEA F usn

TITCII [ECJIA~l

A fto·r "on,idcrabll' II 'C, t he lit"!l forming meehnnivrn may be corn t-logged w i th lint and t hi-, !TIa~ interfere wit h the perfect o per a t io n of the muchiu .

O(',,[l~i[J1I nll y re ruo v e the bobbin ca e a eccr d iug to the f01l0\,;nll: in. tr uct io n s,

and r<'I.IIII" an~ lint, er c.. w hich h a

accumulutcd.

TO RE)IO E BOBBI C· E See Fig .• J(j

The bobbin cuse may he easily removed wi tho ut tukiug 01T the throat plate, although for the purpo e of illu tr ariou the throat plute lind fe d dog are ho wu broken away.

Remove bobbin from the bobbin ca c, Turn hand wh el o ver toward YOll until the end of hook ring E i toward the

FIg .. UJ. IJobbll1 Cas ill POH/lOlI. (Thmul Plate broken away 10 how correct locatio II of Finger A).

front of mucluue, a. ,hen, n, III crt the blade of the ~lI1nll :('rew driver into slot C b etwe eu the rjn~ and the 'U!(l' of spr-ing', as s ho wu, \\ i t h a do w nwurd Jlre~'~UT ,

3~

give the cr ewdriver one half tum to the right 0 tb at it will drop into tbe slot and unlock the sp riug.

With the Tight hand hold the hunt! wheel to prevent its turning and, with the left. place the screwdriver ajrni nvt 'the edge of the Jot in the ring and pll I, i L around ill the direction opposite to the hook rotation until the cir-cular r u r-o nt H j~ up po ite the prinf!; D. Thr ring: and ho hhin case rna) the n Ilf' lifted out.

TO R _PL. 'E BOBBI r

.~te Fig, 36,

"hen rep la ing the part ntH plucc the bobbin r n e into po. ilion wi t h the finger A in the o p e ni ng in t hr- plate under the feed dog, as ho wn. Turn (he bobbin ca e hack and forth 5lightl~ to

make u re that it i properly seated, then place the hook ring E in position with the cut-o u t B oppo i te the pring D. Pre ss tb ring into place and tnrn it in t hr d i re ct.io n of hook rotation until th 'pring ]"ck, it ill po ilion. Then rcplnce t hr- bohhin.

36

Instructions

for

using

The Attachments

XOTE.-13eforc applying tin)' of these attach ments raise the needle and remove the presser foot. After substituting the attachment turn the hand wheel slou'l), IOU'({l'd YOII to make sure that the needle passes through Ow centre of the needle hole. Plitt up bobbin 11I'f'nd as instructed on page 17.

37

FOOT lIE f I' R

The 'ant Hemmer Fig. 31 way be

lied for hemming edge m akin c hemmed and felle

of rna teT; al, -eurn-, and

for hem ming and ew ill" on ]""1' j I. 011" upcra tion ,

/".I! .• 1;. The Foot Hemme r ,

HOW TO

RI' THE ITEM

T THE VER EDG

IT .. " III "tart the hem • t tb "pry dj!"c 01 the mill 'rial i- of f!reaL importanc III Iearriin g to 1] t' 1 lIe hPill uie r, If the hem i-, not t urt cd u t the !'fIll!" and the mareri nl iw pulh-d hiu-, a perfect hem cannot be rnade,

1 here are e verul ""~. of ,tartin!! the h m at the cdg , bu L t ln: ",0,[ practiral IIIlC is u~ Iollo «

1. old .J.t' "f mut 'rial t\\ ice, ahout
in rh n .. h time, fur a di-rance of
about two incb o- f 11" fold ...
2. LII) about 'thn'" inr-hes or n dl,e
and bobhin threat! hack und r hem-
mer. Pia!'!' rfl.ioQ_'" d cdl!:c of mat erial 31J

under hemmer with end of hem directly under needle. Lower hemmer and tack end of hem with tv 0 machine

titches.

3. Raise hemmer. Pull thread and

hem.li.ghtl. from YOll with left b an d ~ then, while holding threads, draw material toward you with right hun d into croll of hemmer uut il tacked e nd

ClI Ill!ht in he miller, a 5ho\\'11 in Fig. 38.

4. Lo w er the hemmer and begin to sew, slightly pulling thread back while

se wi n~.

eel' mouth of hemmer filII

lOlll'oduct' a smooth, !'ven h 111, a hown in Fig. 39.

Fig. 38. Starting a Hem at tlu: Edg«,

Fig. 39. Hemming Edge oJ ,\la/elial Cllld PHI/iII.!? l1ack Threads While Sewing.

30

MAKING A HEMMED SEAM WliTH THE .FOOT HEMI\~ER

See FIgs. 40 and 41.

I. \'·hen ma kiug tLi~ e eu rn , the garment must fir. t be fiued and edge of material trimmed, allowing for aho ut Ya inch seam. Insert the t wo edges of material, right side together, in hemmer in same m auuer as a singh' hem, as shown in Fig. 40. If material is bulky, pluce edge of upper piece of m ateri al about h inch to left of edge of under piece.

2. The fre edge of the hemmed seam may be stitched flat to the garment, if desired, To do t hi • oprn work out fiat, wrong side up, then in er t hem in scrol], of hemmer, holding edge of hem in position \, hile .it i being ati tched, If earn titcbed flat to garment, one row of

s ti t.r:hing i vi ihl e on tb fip;ht ide.

·10

Fig. 40 ,11aki1lg a Hemmed S£am (First Opeyalian).

F!g. H. Making a Hummed Sea». (Second OPeration)

M.IG

FELLED EAM

WITH TIlE fOOT HEMMER

See Figs. J2 and ·[.1.

l , Plac ril!:Lt 'ide uf m at e rial together. having edge of Hppcr I i ce about y inch to left of .d ,. of under piece. trtch the two I'iec-s together, u,ing

Fig. 4'/. Ma/~ing (I, Felled !-iemn (Flyst Operation).

he rum r as a pre" r foot. Guide LOLh pie es by the proje -tillg toe of l.e mmer, a- hOWIl in Fig. 42.

2. Open work out fiat, w ruup ~irle lip, and hem free edge uf 'cam, s titching i'l flat to gllflu<cnl as hn wn in F:i .... 43.

rig. 1.1. .11ah}lg II Fdled Seam (Second OPeratio1z).

41

TO HEM A D EW 0

L I. ONE OPERATION

1.

t ar t he m In the regular way.

.)

Huld he rn in po si tlo n with nCt·(II~.

3. nni~e pres r har aud insert 1'111-11' "f III':c in lot of h e m nier ,IIHI buck under 111" II II 11(' r.

I. Lower Jlr(' .. er bar and - t ur t <('\,jn~. ca t c hing drre of lace "ith 111,(,,111',

5. Guide h Ul with t he rirdH hand (lUU luc , w i t h the left hand, b eiug "[Ireful nol to st.rut ch lace as it entcrs h m mcr.

["s 1-1. lir""'illIg and .'" I1Ig-011 Lace III Olle Operation,

·12

D.II TAGLE UEMMEU

now TO MAKE HEM fROM 10 p 1'0 fa H WIDE

Fig. 16. ShowiHg How AdjHSlable Hemmer is Used [or Malli'l!: Hems Up to -It Inch Wide.

1. 1.00 en the thurnb scr w on the hemmer and 1n0" the cal unt.il the [Jointer reg.i,ter wi th the [Ill ruber of the de. ired wid tbor heru , '\0 indicating til, Dono w st hem and :\0. 8, the widest ; then tig lu cn the thumb cr w,

2. Place the cloth in the hemmer and draw it ba k and fortlJ until Lh,' hem i Formed, a' ho wn in Fig .. 45.

3. Draw the end of the hem back under the needle, lower the presser har and t ar t to sew.

4. Guide ufficicnt dotL into the he m rner to turn the hem properly.

43

DJ TABLE HEMMER

HOW TO MAKE HEM WIDER THAN lr

1. Loo. ell til

thumb 'crew on rhe

hemmer, 11I0'e the scale to the rig h ; a. far a~ it will go, t heu '"iug it toward ) all, a. ho wn in Fig. 46 and t ig h te n t he thumb. rr e w.

2. Fold the r r ease tb e dp~irpd width of hem.

3. Place the fold und r th e x t cn ion at th right of the hemmer and t he edge into the folder, a shown in Fig. 46.

I.. Dr u w the end of the hem bar-k under the needle, lower the pre" ier hLU and start '10 sew.

5. Guide the cloth. to keep the hew Oat.

Fig. 46. :;lw1I11I11: Noli. Adjnstabte Hemmer ~s Used for ,Hakmg Hems !VideI' than tl l nch.

BINDER

Pass the binding through the scroll of the binder unci draw it under the needle. Place the edge of t he mater-ial to he hound between the scr ol! of the binder and under the needle, Io wer the pres, er bar lifter and sew as usn al,

Bin binding should be cut -¥&.inrhwi,J!'.

To Bind with Dress Braid.-l'rocced 115 when using bias binding; but as dress braid and binding purchased already folded are narrower than hills binding they should be inserted in the outer slot of the Linder. The edges of chess braid a r e not turned under as in the c a e ()f bias binding.

To make French Folds.-Proeeed as directed for binding, but pas_ the clo th beneath the hinder foot, so that the fold i tit ched on to the face of the material instead of on the edge.

Fig. 47.

THE AD.II STMENT A 0 OPERATION OF THE BINOER

The edge to he bound should be held well within the centre slot of the croll, and with n little pract lce this i quite !'asy.

If the mat.eriul is allowed to slip away from the croll when near the needle, the e dge " 'II not h .. caught in the hin dina,

ariou mat eri al and condition require different a djus tm ent of the Binder to bring tL stitching do e to the edge. A wider udj u tment of the Bin der i

ne ce sur y when bindi na curve t ha n

"hell hin.ding a straight edge.

To adjust the Binder, Iooveu it .mull screw and move the sr-rnl l 10 the rurht for a narrower adju t men t or to the left for;) wi d er adju tmenL, af'ter w hich se .urcl y tig h ten rh e scr w, To become perfectly familiar with til adjuxrm III uf the Binder, a little practice i. n re"'aty.

BINDING 0 T m CURVES

Pr acti e is T <{uired to hind a curved ed ir e prop rly. The dg e to be bound must be allowed to Fa freely through the scroll and hould not be rn wd ed in Or again t it. Guiding houlr1 be [rum the back of the binder and to the left, allowing unfini hed edges to wing natural. Iy into the scroll. of th binder, N ever pull the hiud i II!; as it feed through the Binder, a hias material i very e asilv stretched and wu ulr] he tuo narrow when it rear-he: t he tH' (lit', if thi occurs the e da es will not be turned.

\\ hen binding a material only a. - e w s. It is not

cur ed d!!c, turn the fa t as the machine po, ihle to hold the

milt rial in the entire length of th

roll when binding a small curve.

D not pu 1 the material ill too fast , II the ·dp;e \\ ill then become puckered, and du not tr tch t he mat rial or tb

ur ve ,\iII not b the pTop e r hape" hen Lini h ·d. If th st.itr-hing doe not catch the d!!e of the binding the croll hould be udj u: t (I II little to the left.

17

BI DI G I IDE CR· E.

hi UJ:V i' found on 111'. rl y all garroI'll ts which are fini h d wit h a I ound edg • but pructice i neces ory on various material .

hen binding an irrside urve, . tr aig hten out th dg e a' it j" being f d into the Binder. ,\ hell doing this, take ('ure nut to stretch the .dge of the iuat rial.

If tb muteriul OiL, Hk,' bati te OJ: crepe d el,ine,. add a row of machiue titching eIo se to the edge of the curve before binding.

EDGE- TITCHER

Cllmbined Edge- titching, Lace-

Joining and Piping llachment

4

5

Fig 50.

The Edgc-Stitclu r,

T'hi, uLlachment i an in di pe n s ahlc aid w h eue ver ti tc hin z mu t h~ kept

a curately on the x tr me edge of a piece f material. The lots. numbered from 1 to 5 in Fi!!:. 50 er ve as guide for _ ewing t o ae ther l u c .. " j user tions and

e rnbro iderie c, '1'\\ illl!: in pu si t ion he m merl

or folded edires pipiug or '1'\\ in!! R~L lrrui d to a gar mcnt.

DJl: TING THE EDGE- -TITCHER

fter u tt aching the d~ - titcher to the m achi ne, t uru tile hand wheel lowly by }'"nd to -I' that the needle )!:oes throll2;h t he rent r e of t he needle hol e, The di tan .e of the line of -rit chi nu from the edge of t h e m a t e r i a] ill the slo t s call be regulated loy pushlug t he lug A, Fig. 50 to the right or to til left. If it move hard, put a drnp of oil under the blue ~pril1g, then wipe it dry.

18

EWIN 7 LACE TOGETHER WITH THE EDGE-TI· T R

It is djm ul t to e w two 13c(' cdp:{'~ togt'thcr ev n after basting, but the

dl:"c, t.itchcr make it po ible til s t lt.r h 1111 the very edge. Place on!' dge ill .,1"t I und the other in lot 4, and udj lI,t lug A, Fig. 50 until botL edge' ur e {'lIlIp;ltt by the ti tchiug. Hold the 1 WII pi,"'p

li glu ly 0 erlapped to keep t he m again.t th nd. of the lot. 1'11, t hr ad tension hould be 100 to a Did I'll 'keriug of fine lace.

ace ,I d ribbon or other in crtiou. c. n be et in by u in" the am' lo t(1 lind 4). The material may b~ Iulderl 0"" rr before placing it in the ,lot ,,0 t hn t

a double thiekne j, tit he d and \\ ill not pull onto The. urplu material trimmed away clo s to the .titching a -Iiown in Fig. 5.2.

49

Fig, ,52, Setting-in Lace I nsertion,

PIP!. 'G WITH THE ED E- TITClIER

See hg, 5.3,

Piping is "pry attractive if the correct contrasting r-olo nr i chosen for tLe piping rnut.eri al. Pl ar e the piping, with it fini hed ed ge to the left, in slot 3, Fig. 50. Place the edge to he piped ill

slo t 4. Piping hould preferaLly be cut bias, and hould be ut to twice the w id t h of the slot 3, Fig. 50 in the edae-

titcher 0 that it can b folded once.

Fig. 53, Piping with the Edge-Stitcher,

50

APPLYl G BIA FOLDS

WITH THE EDGE-STITCHER

Folded hia tape or military braid, u cd for neat and colourful trimming, may be s wn on by placing the garment under the edge- titcher the arne a under the press r fOOL, and placing the tape :inlot lor 4, Fig •. SO.. To make a quare cur ner-, sew until the turning point is reached, then remove the tape from the att achm en t and form the corn r by hand, replace it in the lot and continue titchin g, a hOWD in Fig. 54. To space two or more parallel ro ws, a guide line uch a a cr ea e, chalk mark or basting thread should be used.

Fig. 54, A pplyillg Bias Folds with the Edge-Stitcher,

51

STITCHING A WIlDE HEM WITH THE EBGE-STITCHER

A wide hem 011 sheet, pill:ow slips, e tc., may be trtched evenly with tLe edgestitcher after the hem h a he en mea urad and the edge turned. Insert the edge in slot 5, Fig. 50 and adjus t to sri t ch as close to the edge as desired.:J shown in Fig. 55.

Fig. 5.5. Naking a Wide Hrm.

rlUKI G A FRE en SEA 1

An vcn French earn may be made hy inserting the two edges to be joined, 'wrong ide to-

gether. ill slot I

or 2 and titching

close to the edae ;

1 hen folding both

right sides together

and insertiuz th

hark of the seam

into ,]nt 1 auain

and st itching with

j list enough m,,'rgill

to conceal the raw

cdces (. e c Fig .. 56).

Fig. 56, A Frencls Scam

TUCK! G WETn T.HE EnGE- TITCHER

See Fig. 57.

Dainty narrow tucking may be p eo dnced

all the dge- tit cher by in er ting ere a eo.

folds in slot 1 and adju lillg th edgestitcher to the Tight orr left Cor the de ired widt h of turk lip 'to y inch. ~ ucce ive tuck maybe eusily creased b y folding the materia'! at th ' de ired distunce from the previous tuck, and then running til length of the folrl over II straight edge

uch us the edge of the ewirur machine cabinet. The secret of good tucking lies in II! light t n iuu, shnrt titch and Tine thread and needle.

Fig. 57. Tucking willi the Edge-Stitcher.

53

GA THER1NG FOOT

To Shirr with the Gatlledng Foot

Material foot and

placed

under

the

gu th er ing

stitched

the

in

u ual Any

way fabric suited

will be slig.htly gathered.

that drape

well

15

e p er-ially

Fig. 5,~. The Gathering Foot iH OPera/ion.

for slurring with the gathering foot. Most hininu with the gathering foot is done with a .long stitch and tight tensiun. To .increase the Julln ess of the gathers, lengthen the stitch. To decrease the fullness, borten the ti.tch,

With the g a th ring foot, It 18 possible
to hirr in narrow rows" as bown 111
Ifig. 58. The material may be guided
a ea ily a when. ewing with the pre ser foot. Fine material, such us batiste,

ilk or net, may be very attractively shirred, a . hown by the sample in Fi.g. 59. Where only a light fullnes is required, a at tbe top of a sleeve or around the neck, the gathering foot will be found very convenient.

5·'

Fig. 50. Shirring.

A very pi a ing f:l'cct may be gnin d by u ing thread or embroidery .ilk of cont ra ling colour on the bobbin. Fig,. 60 ho w II" hit or gandi collar :11111

cuff set with TPd and green 'mocking made wirh th I!;lI,thering foot, u ing fill crochet co t.to n Hr t. t tlng t.hr ad 00 the 'top and whit cotton on the bobbin.

55

.R FF.LER

Fig. o I. Priuripai Parts of the HutJIcr.

Principal Part of th Ru m r

A-Foot a tt ar-h

ruflle r to pre er lrar,

Fork

rm- traddl

ne dt r-luui p.

C Adjusting crew reguln t .... f'ullne« of ga ther s.

D-Proj e 'Iioll cngagc ~IOl> in udj lI~tin Iever.

E-Adjn ting Lt'v r- •• ·[~ ru lDl'r for gathl'ring IJr rur JIL •• !.imf a pleut. one at e,"PTY ,ix t itr-he-, or nuce eyer)' tw elv .. tiL,·h. > .I~ d .. ir .. d. 011,0 for discng aainu r n Ille r , \, hen ·iLI ... r ple a tiog or J!ath ring j, not d i'.iTl~d.

F dju ling Finger regular .. width or

size of pleut .

eparutor 'Gu.ide rOlllai:1'I .10L i 111' 0

which ~.-l)!;e uf mut e riul i· place d to

56

TO AmUST RUFFLER fO.R G TDER~ G

ke p heading of r ufllc even; ulso for sep aea ti ng material tv be ruffled from material. to which r uffle is to b ..

att.ached. 1. Swing adjll,tiflj!; finger (0' away f:rom

needle .

.H -Rufll:illg Diad" pu be' ruat erjul III pleat III' to the needle.

J- epara'lorBI.llid

prevents te th of

Turning blade [ro m ('Qll'Iing into contact with feed of mur hine Ill' material to whjr-h fUme 01' pleutiug i· to be applied.

TO ATT AUf TUE RUFFLER TO THE MAICH] E

LOQ en pre. S E Iuot thumb crew and att ach ru fller tv pre sser h ar, at the su me 'time plucirig fork arm B, u-ctride the ucedl .. clamp.

2. R"Le adju tin" lever E and move it unt il projection D ran be entered in slot marked "11.'"

Fig. 62. Gathering witll the R!lffier.

57

Fig. 6J.

Correct Position jar Material 10 be Ruffled.

3. J nser t m a t rial to be ruffled between two blue blades and under separator guide (Line 2, Fig. ,63).

4. Draw maLerial Iig htl y back of nc e d Ie, 10\\ er presser bar and start to sew.

5. For flue g a therin g , turn adjn',[ing sr re w Ie upward to shorten t ro k«, e t the machine for a ho r ter stit ch.

6. For full gathering, turn adj usting screw C downward to lengtbeu stroke. ct the machine for a longer titch.

Fig. Ii I. Ara/li"g a Ruffte and Attaching it in One Operation.

TO UK A RUFFLE A D SEW IT TO A GARflmT IN ONE OPERATION

1. Insert material to be r uflled between two hlue blades and. under separator guide (Line 2', Fig. '65).

58

2. Place material to whir-h r u Ille i" to bo: attached under eparator hlude and under separator guide (Line 1, is' 65).

3. Proceed the arne a for plain !!'atb rin!!.

RlA"1'l."" ""lffl~ 2 ~ARMt"r';il

1 I

Fig. 65.

Correct Positions for Materials.

TO MAKE A RUFFLE A D T

IT I H A F ACI G IN ON

OPERA .ION

1. In c:rt material to be Ttl ill d be twecu two blue bladle and under scp arn tur guide (Line 2, Fig •. 67).

Fig. (Jr.. .1Iakitlg a l~lIjfle and Attacliing it with a Facing HI Qlle Opeiatton,

n

2. Place material to which r uflle i. to b attached under s parator guide (Line 1, Fig. 67).

3. Place facing material OY r upp r blue blade (Line 4, Fig. 67).

4. If facing i to be on right ide lie garment, place "HOJJ' ide of garment and ruffle .to"'etbc.i'.

59

Fig. 1i7. Correct Positions [or ]1(1lt'1'i~Lis.

5. If Iucing is to be on wrong side, pluce

tight ides of garment and ruffle

together.

TO PIPE

RUFFLE

J. J nxer t material to be Turned he-tween tl, 0 bille blade Iro m the ri~ht (Lin 3, Fi... 69). Thi material mu t not exceed l % inches in width.

2. The pipillg material i u: unny cut on the hi a and it hould be about

% inch wide when folded in centre. Place pjpiug material in ruiller, following Line 5, Fi.,. 69 with folded edge of piping to right.

3. Fold edge of material to which piping and ru Illirur are to be attached and

Fig. 6

Pipillg Ii Ruffi«,

60

Fig. 69. Correct Positions iVI Xl ates tats.

Jll er t it ill r ufller , from the left following Line 6, Fig. M.

o ADJ{; T R

FLER

FOR PLE .rr 'G

1. Raise adj u tiua lever E and mo ve it

until projection D con h nt red in

lot mucked "6." The rufller w Ill t h. n pleat OUCi' ever y six t it e hcs. To pleat 0111'1.' evcrv t" el \ c ti tch es,

hu e projer rion D cnt r slut' 12" ill the adjust inz lever E •

. , I nscrt the material to be ]']1.'.1[ e ,1 between tb two blue hlude- uud under the epurutur J!uide (Line 2, Fla, 71).

1. To iucreuse width of pleat, move udj u;;linl-\: f,ngerF hack toward n d Ir urul lUTIl udju ting screw C UOWJLWtHU.

Fig. ill. Pleating tuilh 'he Ruffin.

6]

Fig. 7 J. Correct POSitlO!lS for .1/ aterial.

To make a smaller pleat. turn a dj us till!!: scr e w C upward. The rlj~ta nee h t w een plcHtb is r crrulat ed by length of <t itr h.

TO DIU T RUFFLER

OR GROL'P PLEA rrxc

I. To mak the

group of pleat

sp a c b e t« en the raise udj usting Ie er

E and move it until projection n ran be entered in mall slo t indicated by

tar on ad] 1I ting lever E. The Tullier will th n to p pleating and plain tit 'hin" will he made.

2. When the desired pare IS made. set p roj er-t io n D in either of slot "6" or "12'. "

Fig. 72. Group Pleating with lire Ruffier.

62

3. In crt the mat rial to b

pl at.ed

between the two blue hladc uud under the se p ar ator g uide (Line 2, Fmg. 73).

Fig. 7.1.

Correct Position jor ",!.Tnluial.

TO OIL TETE R HI,ER

OCl"a~ion"ny apply a drop of oil to the working pan of the ruffler a t the places indicntud iJy the unlet rered arrows ill Fig. 72.

63

FA 1110:'\ AID
Zig~dg ~ ~YrW~\l{'WM K.y
BllllJ .-...."..---~---. ~.JM~.JNIrlm( [ja/!
rfll,b AUTOMATIC ZIGZAGGER

Zigzag ~titt'hing d er-o rnt i v e p at te rn s ti tr-hiug, applifJu!'-all of the. e anrl more rlH'Y be do n .\ 'IO~r\TICALLYOn)OIlT T -G.R with the Aut marie Zigzag Attne hrn ... n t. You r-an b lind s tit ch herns, mend rip and t ars, rcinfor c ca ms, o veredgc cam

d g e an d s rit ch scallo p facing ca ily and quickl "

Merely inser t one of the many t it ch I a tt.er n into the uto matic Zigzug;ger and. e w,

Arl"fJUj ~4tV(tw~ -1/1~ 'H# ~ Ji,illgl.
He"J
r-; /.\ / (ur1
;----- ......... I \ " -'{en "'g
!j(III/&P ,. " / \/ j
/ V
.. r, ('. ~ Up",
M,dllp!' ' , Sra/lqp
. '.' ..
Walls 0/ ~ ~'lfllAW#vtd Three-
of Troy Sltl' Solid Sralfop

TilE BUTTO HOLER

Beautiful, evenly stitched buttonholes may be made on your l:;:{GER Machine with th Btl ttonboler, as easily a you do traight t.itchiug ,

The Buttonholer does the work for YOll - traight buttonhole from % to onc inch long.

Samples of Work Produced by SINGER BHII011!1oley.

65

BlA G VGE

The Bia Gauge i very useful (e pecially in the case of oft material ) when cuttin.g bias trip from -f.r inch to 1 % inche in width. This i don by placing the bia gauge upon the point of the scis or and setting the blued indicator to the width de-Ired, The line F i tbe point at w hich to

et th blued indic tor for facin~", the line B for hindirur, and the lin C f01" cordinz or piping,

Insert tbe rnatcrial ill the gauge with the dge again. t the blued indicator, and hold a shown ahove.

Bias binding AI:I011ld be cut -it inch wide, and to do till the indicator should be set midway between the line F and B.

TIIE QUILTER

The quilter guide can be used at either the right or left of the needle, and the di tance of the guide from the n edle d t Twines the width between. the row of trtchinz. lid the wire into it hold r on. the foot, and set it to the width desired; then lower the foot on to the material.

To Quill.- <or the fir~l row of tiLching, let the quilter guide follow the dge of the material, a straight crease, 01" a line,::I preferred, ucceeding row ate made straight. and at a uniform di ranee, by keeping til previous row steadily under-the guide, a hown,

66

The i. helpful when tit chinu ieuui un e tuct ... id th, aud for stitching n

from a finished edge. E IJ ciull y helpful for those j 1I t learning to se w and all aid to t ho se demanding greater uniformity ill -e a m "idth than the C)"C might

gi e, th earn Guid i~ a useful ad diriou to ) o ur 'ewing cquipm nt.

T KER The Tucker i II time-suv r for making tucks up to on' inch ill width. Two adj LI ruble 'calc ate provided, rho smuller ne ar the n cdlc i. numb red from 1 til fl, C"pres ing in cinh th «f an inch the wid t h of the tur-k. Th larger sr-ale cxprcs es ill quarter ill..Jl(,· the

pa ing bet \\ cell tuck-, ct th tuck calc fir. for t he width of tuck. The spar !-rale- i til n adju ted u illg the n edle u. an indi ator for the pacing I e twe en tuck. \\ hen both scnles arc et at the a m e nu mb e r, blind luck, res lilt. That is, the fold of on t ne k jll t touche the ti tchin.g lin of the next. When additional space between tuck. j desir cd, adj u t the space cnle to a point b~) nnd the tuck. rule reading

qual to the pa"ing dcair d, exprc sed in qu arrer of an inch, Thu. hulf-inch turks paced II haH inch npurt r quir a tuck calc, tting of 1, and a sp ace scale etting of 6.

67

A P PL I

TIO

THE ZIPPER FOOT

11"4844

T'hi-, foul i~ desianed tu facilitate the phH'~1I1"'"1 flf .tit~billg close tu a rai ed cdg·. It is attached to m ar-hin e ill place of the regular pres er foot and may be adj ustr-d 10 ei I her th ri,!!I.t or left sid of the u eedle, w it ho ut r e mnv urg it Ir urn the mar hin .

Zipper Insertion Corded cam Tubul ar Cording

lip Cover \~ citing !lined Cording 'Corded Heudinz

68

"The Best is the Cheapest'

e SINCER· EWI G 1\1 HI E OIL OD fachin

Knowing from msn. y ar ' e xpcrieucc the great importance of 1I in!!: good oil, I GER sells lin extra qualit y wing machine oil, ill e ans,

esp eciully prepured for wing machines.

SINGER Needles should be used In SINGER Machines.

These Needles and their Contai ners are marked with the Company's Trade Mark SIMANCO.*

69

Needles in Contai ners marked "FOR SINGER MACH INES" are NOT

SING E R made Needles.

I Page

AU3chlllent

Adju tuhle Hemmer 13

Bi n d er 15

Edge- t it cher 18

oot H muier 3H

Gathering Foot 5t

Ruffle'[ . .. 56

Bel'! Shifler 9

Bobbin

Removing 1 J

Replacing 1.5

"'iading 13

Bohbin Co e

Remo vinc 35

Hepl acin 36

hrea ding 15

Bobbin Winder J3

Da~nillg and Embroidery 29

Eleclri.cal Information 4

DEX

Page

Fasbion Aid 6.J.

Bias Gauge " 66

Buttonholer 65

Quilter 66

earn Guide 67

Tucker 67

Zigzagger., Automatic 64

Zipper out 68

Hand Auachment 8

Light 5

Lubrication

To Oil the i\fat'itine and land 32

To Oil the e "inl!: .Hook , 33

[eedle and Thread " 11

Needl eUing 10

Pres er Foot, to He ulate Pres ure ~ I

Ru I: dawag, prevention of " 31

ervice, INGER " 3

70

T'DEX

1"1\ in

To Operat e EI .. «tric Machine ..

To Operatc Hand r achine 8

To Operatc Treadle 31achine 9

To Prepare for ewing I ~

']'0 tart . ewmg I fI

To Turn 1I Corner 19

Ba ting I 9

To ev Bius earn. .. 19

To Remo ve tho\York 20

To Regulate I. ng th of ti tch and

Direction of Fced 20

ew ine uggclion 30

titch Forming ,f!'cbani-m,

leanirur 35

Stop Iorion 9

contluued.

Pag

hrcadill

Tppcr 'I'hre adiug l~

Bobbin use Threading 15

Thr ad T nsiou 21

Bobbin Thread Tension ,

t o UCl!:ulate 23

[e .dle Thread Tension"

to It gulat e 22

j\ cdle Thread Tension,

to Adju t 26

X eedle _ bread T n ion,

to Di. a emblc 21

Xe die Thread Tension,

to Rea. e mble 25

Thread Take-up pring,

to Adju t Ten ion 27

71

Re~i l red Trade ~farkH) IHI fin dirion d, or altered in any" a aUlhnri~ .. d L\GER a"'cney i

machine t hat has heen repaire d, r .. buill, eecun"hIlLO n'r out ide a 'l"'ILER raClnl"} or an fnrhidden.

TO A.LI_WHOM rr NUl' CONCER,

11',ltp jL!11'rOI,er placing or nnewal of tin Irad, Mark" m GEit" or Illly other' of tile Trod, Mark of The ,ill~ I' Mallufllf'ludllJ7 Compau {all !If which ar duly

72

J>,l.WAYS L.oOI( FOFl THE FAMOUS REO "S" A"D SINGER TRADEMARKS FOR AUTHORISED SAL.ES

,IO."D SER" ICE.

WHE'" yOUR MACI"IINE !'lEEDS SERVICING CAL.L

'fOUR SINGER SEWING CENTRE A!'ID BE SURE OF WARRANTED BINGER PARTS AND SERVICE.

SEE ADDRESS IN CL.ASSIFIED TEL.EPHONE DIRECTORV LISTED ONL.V UNDER