Smart Luxury Awards

The 75 absolute best hotels, restaurants, and travel

experiences from everything we covered in the past year.
At Sherman’s Travel, we spend an inordinate amount of time snooping around hotels,
dissecting restaurants, and sizing up destinations. We assess every aspect of a travel
experience, from beds and views to service and that indefinable thing called vibe. Does it
stand out against its competitors in a meaningful way? Is a visit there worth the money?
These are just a few of the questions we constantly ask ourselves. When a worthy place
makes it into the magazine, it enters the Sherman’s pantheon.
For our second annual Smart Luxury Awards, this process took on an added layer of
scrutiny. We asked our supremely discriminating and ruthless editors and writers to
nominate the standouts from the past year—the hotels, restaurants, and experiences that
struck them as particularly special. The resulting maelstrom was not for the faint of heart.
Favorites were championed; early contenders fell by the wayside; dark horses emerged.
A list coalesced, which was then further probed and refined. Finally, the Smart Luxury
Awards winners were decided and peace reigned in the land, or at least in our office.
And what an impressive list it is—not comprehensive, by any means, but intimate and
surprising: from a seven-room 15th-century mansion turned boutique hotel in Rethymno,
Crete, to New Zealand’s lesser-known red wine country on the North Island. Rounding out
the section are tips and recommendations from a diverse group of tastemakers, including
Ace Hotels owner Alex Calderwood and restaurateur extraordinaire Donatella Arpaia. We
hope this year’s Smart Luxury Awards winners inspire you.

Reading the List: Sherman’s Travel designates many of our luxury finds as either a smart
splurge, an indulgence that merits its high price in every way, or a great value, a less costly
option that will still satisfy the sophisticated traveler. Unless otherwise noted, the prices
listed apply to the current season.

Studio Photographs by Daymion Mardel Drawings by Mariko Jesse

 Dublin, Ireland
The Merrion
pitch-perfect grandeur
This restored row of 18th-century Georgian town houses, just steps
from Dublin’s leafy Merrion Square, treats guests to a singular experience of the Irish capital.
Converted to a hotel in 1997, the Merrion maintains the aura of an enduring grand dame, yet
remains free of any high-handedness. Interior design pays homage to the property’s Georgian
genesis. The four landmarked buildings that comprise the Main House had stints as state
offices and aristocratic residences—and even as the birthplace of the first Duke of Wellington,
defeater of Napoleon at Waterloo. Unlike the lobbies of many high-end properties, which tend
to be cold and transitory, the Merrion sports a series of cozy, old-world drawing rooms with
delicate rococo plasterwork and 19th- and 20th-century Irish art. Plush couches and working
fireplaces encourage gathering. A witty Art Tea service is launching this fall with pastries inspired
by the artworks. The Tethra Spa’s neoclassic-style indoor swimming pool supplies an aquatic
amenity that’s rare in this city. Rooms balance gilded elegance—high ceilings, framed mirrors,
and antiques—with contemporary touches. The refined cocktail bar, No. 23, and Restaurant
Patrick Guilbaud, Ireland’s only two-star Michelin establishment, are popular with officials
from the Irish parliament across the street. Yet the true gem might be the unpretentious Cellar
Restaurant and Bar, serving the finest fish and chips in town. From $705/night; merrionhotel
.com A Dublin B&B on a quiet street, Number 31 does the breakfast part
smashingly (in its glass-enclosed terrace dining room). The bedrooms are modest
in size but decorated with a pastiche of modern and original Georgian details. Book
a room overlooking the serene walled garden. From $112/night; number31.ie
A junior suite at The Merrion
A deluxe corner room at The Standard, New York
New York City
Alan Wong’s abalone, tako, and ahi salad
oahu, Hawaii
Alan Wong’s
Restaurant
An enduring culinary trailblazer
His flagship on Oahu opened 15 years ago—
eons in restaurant time—but Alan Wong keeps winning awards
and gathering the kind of giddy reviews usually heaped on the
young guns. One of the founders of Hawaii Regional Cuisine, the
farm-to-table revolution that encouraged local farmers to grow
high-quality produce, Wong invents riffs on the comfort foods of
the many cultures informing Hawaii’s melting pot cuisine. Poke,
Hawaii’s version of ceviche, shows up as Poki-Pines (spiky flash-fried
wontons), while loco moco (a local hamburger, rice, and egg dish) is
reinterpreted as unagi meat loaf, topped with a quail egg and fla-
vored by kabayaki sauce. President Obama chose Wong as chef for
his administration’s debut congressional picnic. Try to find a higher
level of approval. alanwongs.com Unassuming
Helena’s Hawaiian Food, on Oahu, serves outstanding local
fare that’s garnered plaudits from the James Beard

The Standard Foundation. helenashawaiianfood.com

A hot spot with legs

ALAN WONG’S restaurant; COURTESY LEADING HOTELS OF THE WORLD

It’s late afternoon and The Standard’s outdoor beer garden is other hotels swathe guests in skyscrapers, half the rooms at The Standard offer

COURTESY THE STANDARD HOTELS (2). Opposite, FROM TOP: COURTESY

abuzz: At tall tables, patrons sip steins of Köstritzer Schwarzbier while beautiful
waitstaff thread through the crowd selling warm pretzels the size of miniature
schnauzers. On the sidewalk out front, a rollicking street band plays, followed by
another (dressed as pirates), neither with any connection to the hotel. A gourmet
ice cream truck pulls up and starts dishing out a scoop on an organic cone to a cus-
tomer. Overhead stretches the High Line park, where passersby peer down, drinking
in the action. As the sun sinks, dyeing the buildings of the Meatpacking District
pink, this patch of city seems like the swirling center of the universe—or at least
the center of Manhattan’s universe. New York already has a dazzling bevy of hotels
and big, exciting openings of all sorts happen every day. Yet the city with a 4-second
attention span is still paying attention to The Standard, the newest hotel in André
Balazs’s mini chain with outposts in Los Angeles and Miami. The New York Times
architecture critic Nicolai Ouroussoff raved that the gleaming edifice is the kind
of “thoughtfully conceived building that is all too rare in the city today.” Whereas
rare, sweeping Hudson River views through floor-to-ceiling windows. True to the Great Finds:
brand’s ethos, its prices are reasonable for a stylish Manhattan hotel, both for the
rooms and the restaurant. And while The Standard Grill attracts an A-list crowd, it
The It Restaurateur
Over July 4th weekend, I found myself
is still possible for mere mortals to nab reservations; they simply need to call two alone in New York City with no plans, so I drove up
weeks ahead. Plus, there’s the wildly popular High Line shooting through the hotel’s to New Paltz and came upon a gorgeous bed and
concrete legs. Free, fun, and repurposed from old train tracks, the park opened just breakfast called Buttermilk Falls. All the rooms
after the hotel did. Though The Standard’s vigorously trendy scene and see-through were taken, but because of a last-minute cancella-
showers aren’t for everyone, if a visitor wants to plug into the action, this is the spot. tion, a private house was not. The inn had already
From $295/night; standardhotels.com/new-york-city received a deposit, so I was able to rent the house
For a completely different, decidedly Uptown scene, at a 30 percent discount.
trust the capable hands of the Four Seasons New York, whose flawless I spent the entire weekend hiking, enjoying
spa services, going to local farmers’
service and spectacularly large rooms set it apart from the competition.
markets, and cooking.
A new caviar-and-champagne lounge adds to the hotel’s sumptuous mien.
—Donatella Arpaia, whose restaurants
From $855/night; fourseasons.com/newyork include Anthos, Kefi, and Mia Dona
in New York and Eos in Miami

52 Smart Luxury 2009 ShermansTravel.com

 A tent at The Resort at Paws Up

Hawkes Bay and Martinborough, New Zealand

North Island Vineyards
The Best Wine Regions You’ve Never Heard Of
Sure, the sauvignon blancs in Marlborough are mildly famous
nowadays, but the real story out of New Zealand is the stunning array of knockout red
wines from relatively unknown wine regions. The best come from two areas on North
Island: sunny Hawkes Bay, an hour from Auckland by plane, where dozens of single-
estate vineyards produce wonderfully spicy syrahs and chewy cab-merlot blends; and
diminutive Martinborough, another three hours south by car, where multiple boutique
vineyards turn out earthy pinot noirs. Like California, both areas have heartily em-
braced farm-to-table cuisine and offer elegant overnight digs. Yet, in comparison, they
seem undiscovered—no crowds, tour buses, or ratcheted-up prices. Instead, visitors
can bunk down in a grand golf lodge (The Farm at Cape Kidnappers in Hawkes Bay), a
contemporary bungalow at a leading vineyard (Craggy Range in Havelock North), or a
country inn (Peppers Martinborough Hotel in Martinborough), all for less than $320 a
night. Travelers can also savor New Zealand cuisine (think lamb, venison, and seafood)
at high-end country restaurants with evocative names like Old Church and Terroir. And,
most important, they can sample flights of red wines yet to arrive stateside, like a syrah
with aniseed notes at Craggy Range, a complex bordeaux-style cab-merlot blend at Te
Awa in Hastings, or a limited-release pinot noir produced by Japan-based Kusuda (New
Zealand’s only Japanese winemaking outfit). Yes, a plane ticket to California is cheaper
than one to New Zealand, but getting in on an exceptional wine scene like this before
everyone else is worth every penny. In another New World region,
Chile’s Colchagua Valley, vintners are producing cellars full of relatively
undiscovered premium reds. The Residencia Histórica de Marchihue, some 80
Bresca’s braised veal cheeks with
spring vegetables and red wine sauce
Portland, Maine
Bresca
Each night, a new food performance
Portland is more than a decade into a culinary boom,
and its first crop of successful restaurants, such as Fore Street and
Hugo’s, have won national awards and glowing write-ups. Now a sec-
ond culinary wave is rippling across the city, this time a collection of
smaller restaurants tucked throughout the city. Our favorite Bresca,
is Krista Kern Desjarlais’s 20-seat jewel inside a narrow one-story
building in the Old Port section. Many unforgettable dishes grace the
menu—like braised black kale with pancetta and soft-boiled egg, or
any one of her homemade pastas. Desjarlais has done tours at leading
kitchens in New York and Las Vegas, but it’s not only the technical
prowess and great ingredients (a number of fantastic food purveyors
reside in Portland) that make Bresca a wonderful find. It’s also that
blackfoot river valley, Montana Yucatan, Mexico
The Resort at Paws Up

FROM TOP: COURTESY ROBIN RILEY; COURTESY CRAGGY RANGE. OPPOSITE: COURTESY THE RESORT AT PAWS UP
Hacienda Temozon
miles south of Santiago, is an 18th-century estate transformed by its Italian-
Chilean owners into a 22-room hotel. Standout features include the owners’ each night, Desjarlais manages to build a unique sense of camarade-

art and antiques collection as well as a superb restaurant. From $120/night;
residenciahistorica.com
rie and theater in her small space. Meals unfold like a well-directed
show. bresca.org Inventive, somewhat out- Haute camping grounds
there preparations of locally sourced ingredients have won Dave and Nadine Lipson weren’t the first to think of bringing luxury lodging
raves for Portland chef Rob Evans of Hugo’s and, this year, a to the rustic Big Sky Country, but they’ve done it the best. When in 1997 the Lipsons purchased
James Beard Best Chef: Northeast Award. hugos.net their Blackfoot Valley expanse (they own 10,000 acres and lease another 27,000), they initially
considered horse and cattle ranching, but some cosmic force intervened and since 2005
they’ve shared their pristine slice of Western wilderness with guests. The Resort at Paws Up
provides a ranch experience where the world-class fly-fishing might not even be the trip’s
highlight. Mere mentions of the Blackfoot, Bitterroot, and Missouri rivers send shivers down
the spines of fly-fishing devotees. There’s Blackfoot River rafting and kayaking (from white-
Great Finds:
The Culinary
water to serene floats), horseback riding on local trails with an on-staff wrangler, and a range
of spa treatments. Chef Wes Coffel, a veteran of several top kitchens in the West, knows what
Sur
Restored historical elegance
This 17th-century hacienda, a former cattle
ranch and rope-making factory, is now one of the Yucatán’s
most luxurious estate hotels. Haciendas are an integral part
of Mexico’s heritage, both for their architectural splendor and
for their central role in regional agriculture. After a two-year
restoration, Hacienda Temozon opened in 1997 with modern
accommodations; rooms have dramatic 18-foot ceilings,
elaborate iron beds, and enormous wooden double doors.

Impresario to garnish with those fresh-picked huckleberries (pulled pork) and how to present that Rocky
Mountain trout caught a short walk from the table. The 12 canvas tents and 28 of timber,
Guests can survey the red buildings of the refurbished estate
via mule-drawn trains, stroll cobbled pathways through
A smart splurge was staying at the Taj Lake flowering gardens, sprawl on poolside loungers by a swim-
designed by Nadine, are accented by traces of their surroundings: pinecones, cowhide, timber,
Palace hotel in Udaipur, India, in the Mayur Mahal up bar, or simply catch some shut-eye on one of the many
or antlers. In both Tent City and the newer River Camp, personal butlers cater to every desire,
Suite. The colored-glass window panels changed hammocks. The on-premise spa incorporates Mayan healing
from dark chocolate on s’mores to help in crafting a plan for the next day’s adventures. From
the mood in the room with the sun’s rays. practices while restaurant Casa Principal blends Mexican and
$665/night for two, all-inclusive; pawsup.com For luxe camping in Europe,
We almost didn’t care that we really couldn’t European flavors. From $245/night; haciendasmexico.com/
Spain’s sleepy, sunny Andalusian countryside, the Hoopoe Yurt Hotel comprises five
afford to be there. We had a blast and felt temozon
weatherproof yurts, each set in its own meadow and equipped with solar-powered Each of the 30 villas at The
just like James Bond.
electricity and hot showers. Other highlights of this eminently peaceful establish- Tides in Mexico’s Playa del Carmen comes with more
—Lee Brian Schrager, founder of the
ment in Cortes de la Frontera include a natural swimming pool and delicious meals than 1,000 square feet of privacy, an outdoor terrace
South Beach Wine & Food Festival
made with ingredients from the on-site garden and local farms. From $200/night and shower, chaise lounges, and a handmade crochet
The vineyards of Craggy Range in New Zealand including breakfast; yurthotel.com hammock. From $700/night; tidesrivieramaya.com

54 Smart Luxury 2009 ShermansTravel.com

 Gróf Degenfeld Castle Hotel & Winery

Sardinia, Italy TokaJ, hungary

La Gritta
Low-key dining with killer views
In the 1960s, billionaire Prince Karim Aga Khan
cherry-picked Sardinia’s north coast as an unadorned hideaway for
the fashionable society of his day. Nowadays, the north side of the
island is fairly developed, and standing in the middle of Palau’s built-
up seafront, one might find it hard to see why the Emerald Coast is so
notable. The real magic to this region comes on a plate, and the best
plates on the north coast—along with its best views—can be had at a
simple limestone building overlooking the Maddalena archipelago.
La Gritta’s cuisine makes the most of the island’s sea bounty (all the
Grof Degenfeld Castle Hotel
A reclaimed mansion in a historic wine region
Not many wine regions pull double duty as UNESCO World Heritage Sites, Great Finds:
The Travel
but not many maintain a distinctive viticulture tradition that’s more than 1,000 years old.
Hungary’s Tokaj area, a 2.5-hour drive northeast from Budapest, is serene and uncrowded. Half-
buried, 600-year-old stone wine cellars still embed the green rolling hills like so many elvan
homes. Though its vintners have been producing excellent white wines for centuries
Bookstore Owner
My best splurge was chartering a yacht off Turkey
(past fans included Louis XIV), the region today escapes the notice of most travelers. Nowhere is
in the Aegean Sea. There were six of us in a
this air of faded grandeur better experienced than at the Gróf Degenfeld Castle Hotel & Winery,
three-cabin beauty with a three-man crew including
a renovated former palace set in a 250-acre vineyard. A regal elegance lingers in the 21-room
a full-time chef. We spent 11 days cove-hopping—
hotel with its Venetian chandeliers, silk drapes, and oil paintings of the Degenfeld clan. In the

Courtesy Hungarian national tourist office

fish is hook-and-line caught) and of produce from island farms—plus visiting ancient villages and small port towns that are
dining room, chef Solymosi Attila prepares traditional Hungarian dishes such as roasted goose
there’s homemade bread, pasta, and gelato. The owners, brothers hard to access by land—and best of all, just anchoring
liver with braised apples and tocsni (potato pancakes). The servers pair each dish with a Gróf
Beniamino and Paolo D’Amore, opened the restaurant more than two at sea, jumping over the sides, and taking
vintage, which guests can also sample in the hotel’s own wine cellar. Modern amenities such as
decades ago with Paolo cooking and Beniamino selecting the wines. in the beautiful scenery.
air-conditioning, two tennis courts, and an outdoor pool bring the place’s comforts up-to-date.
In 2007 Beniamino’s daughter Simona and her partner Roberto took —David Del Vecchio, founder
The staff can arrange a car and driver so guests can explore the region’s offerings–by horseback
over, adding flashes of the avant-garde to uncomplicated old-world of Idlewild Books, Manhattan’s only
riding in the nearby hills, visiting other vineyards, or touring the local sugar museum or postcard
flavors. www.ristorantelagritta.it At Sorrento’s travel-themed bookstore
museum. From $160/night; hotelgrofdegenfeld.hu In the quiet village of
Bellevue Syrene hotel, restaurant Il Pino is set on a terrace Mad, also in the region of Tokaj, rests the cheerful Mádi Kúria Hotel, a 24-room hotel in
that’s practically sliding into Italy’s Bay of Naples. Diners bask a restored bank building. The hotel’s restaurant is one of the town’s few and, thank-
in the candlelight while an ethereal Mount Vesuvias looms in fully for travelers, it’s above par, with a deep wine cellar. From $75/night;
the distance. bellevue.it www.madikuria.hu

56 Smart Luxury 2009 ShermansTravel.com


Great Finds:
The Actress
& the Chef
We visited the Capuchin catacombs of Palermo, Italy,
which are so bizarre and so memorable. Imagine a crypt
filled with thousands of mummified corpses, dating back to
the early 16th century, organized by profession and dressed
accordingly. Many of them are hanging on the walls, heads
lolling, and others are stacked like moving boxes. The men are
categorized by their line of work, and the women are grouped in
one area called “Women.” (Figures, right?) The crypt is in kind of
a strange part of town, is poorly marked, costs about 3 euros to
enter, and is virtually empty. Crazy.
—Stephanie March appears on
Law & Order: SVU and is married to
Food Network regular Bobby Flay
58 Smart Luxury 2009 ShermansTravel.com
Marrakech, Morocco
Riad Noir d’Ivoire
A Designer riad in the heart of the medina
As fans of North Africa know, Marrakech is in the middle of a stylish
hotel construction boom, and while the addition of smart new properties is a welcome
development, many of them lie in the Ville Nouvelle and outer suburbs. Those who want
to experience vintage Marrakech should visit its ancient Medina, or old city, and stay in a
riad, a residence of traditional design (many have been turned into hotels or guesthouses).
Riad Noir d’Ivoire is a unique establishment. Because the hotel is secreted away at the
end of a Medina alleyway, its staff sends a donkey cart to meet arriving guests at a nearby
landmark. Once off the chaotic Medina streets, guests will find the hubbub melts away;
the riad unfolds onto one enchanting courtyard after another. Owner Jill Fechtmann, an
interior designer, wanted to showcase the impressive craftsmanship and architectural
details for which Morocco is known with a modern yet homey edge. She relied on local
antique dealers and scouted Moroccan artifacts and fittings from all over the world.
Some of her treasures include antique horse sculptures from Pakistan, an Indian mirror
that forms a headboard in the Panthere suite, and antique Berber doors hung on the
walls. Equally appealing is the “house jewelry,” as Fechtmann calls it: the sparkly sinks,
fixtures, and the large bathtub in the Elephant Suite, all made from silver alloy. Room
size and decor vary (some come with a private roof terrace and Jacuzzi), as do rates. And
Kauai’s North Shore
though all stays here are definite splurges, the Panthere, Elephant, and Zebre suites are
especially worth the cost. From $270/night; suites from $460/night; noir-d-ivoire.com
In the desert suburb of Palmeraie about a 15-minute drive from
Kauai, hawaii
Pure Kauai
Marrakech, Terre Resort & Spa offers 18 eye-catching octagonal villas capped by
Moorish domes set on 12 sprawling acres. From $200/night; terre.com
The Omnia hotel, above the center of Zermatt
Custom itineraries in Paradise
The Guepard suite at the Riad Noir d’Ivoire Before moving to Hawaii, Phil Jones ran an ad-
venture skiing outfitter and helmed a fitness company catering to
celebrities on location, great preparation for the role of running his
zermatt, Switzerland outfitting company, Pure Kauai. His ability to provide people with
The Omnia thrilling outdoor experiences without sacrificing that personal,
you’re-so-special touch is why a long list of stars like Jack Black
stylish comfort on the slopes and Jennifer Garner have taken advantage of his latest service.
Nestled in the southwestern corner of Switzerland is the wintry Pure Kauai acts not only as a leasing agent for stunning residences
(from condos to full estates) but also as a super-concierge service.
wonderland of Zermatt, renowned for its postcard-worthy setting at the base of the Matter-
horn. The Omnia provides unique lodgings for those visiting this car-free village to ski or to It creates individualized itineraries and offers adventure trips (from
take in the other attractions. Dramatically set alongside a sheer rock face, The Omnia has $6,790) and romance packages (from $6,975), priced according to
guest rooms without numbers—each so unique that there’s no need for them. Guests zip up the accommodations. Starting with airport pickup, the impres-
OLIVER FECHTMANN/KULSI DESIGN/COURTESY RIAD NOIR D’IVOIRE
COURTESY DESIGN HOTELS. Opposite, FROM TOP: PHOTOS.COM;
to the lobby via a glass elevator set in the mountainside. The 30 rooms (including 12 suites) sive options include meals cooked by a private chef, surfing and
display cutting-edge design that doesn’t forsake comfort for style. Each room has its own paddle-boarding lessons, spa treatments, horseback riding, zipline
balcony and some have Jacuzzis or private saunas. Classic lodge elements have not been tours, and hula lessons. Plus, there’s the chance to take a zodiac
neglected: stone fireplaces, well-stocked libraries, and a lounge bar. Guests can also enjoy trip around the legendary cliffs of Na Pali, hike through Waimea
“the cavern,” a conference room sometimes used for movie screenings: surrounded by gran- Canyon, or train with spiritual teachers, life guides, or fitness
ite, it floats over water—really—in a man-made cave. The hotel’s spa contains a caldarium experts (to trim that avoirdupois). Almost all the guides and experts
and a Turkish bath. Yoga and Pilates classes are available for stretching sore muscles after are full-time staff members, and all are handpicked by Jones from
a day on the slopes. The Omnia’s 60-seat restaurant serves up hearty, contemporary cuisine among the best local pros. The company recently expanded to offer
like stuffed potato dumplings with blue fig compote and goat cheese, or venison with the same gamut of services through Pure Maui. Condos from $295/
hazelnut-spatzle, quince puree, and bitter chocolate sauce. And just in time for this winter’s night; purekauai.com Of all the remarkable ex-
season, the Matterhorn-Express gondola has been revamped, if one feels like leaving the periences in Hawaii, why opt for a helicopter tour? Because
hotel that is. From $580 a night; the-omnia.com The modern rooms at soaring over cliffs, volcanoes, and emerald mountains
the Coeur des Alpes in Zermatt, Switzerland sport stunning mountain views. Re- aboard one of Blue Hawaiian Helicopters’ quiet, state-of-the-
cently the hotel unveiled new loft lodgings for two to six people and an improved art Eco-Stars is the quintessential way to take in the islands’
spa. From $220/night; www.coeurdesalpes.ch singular topography. $226 a person; bluehawaiian.com
The americas and Africa
TOMS Tours
Targeted do-gooding Trips
For myriad reasons (the “Yes We Can” effect, reassessments of
values during a recession), volunteering abroad has swelled in 2009. These days
travelers can build libraries in India, save elephants in Botswana, or help out in
a Cambodian orphanage—and still squeeze in safaris or surf lessons on the side.
“Voluntourism” is a trend that Sherman’s Travel embraces, but with a grain of reserve
since providing aid is complicated enough without having to factor in the comfort
of paying guests. TOMS Tours is one operator that pulls it off successfully. The
organization is an arm of TOMS Shoes, the California-based nonprofit that sells hip,
comfortable lightweight slip-ons modeled after Argentine alpargatas. With every pair
bought, TOMS donates one to a child in need to prevent podoconiosis, a debilitating
disease contracted by walking barefoot. TOMS employees hand-deliver the shoes
to rural villages in several countries and in 2008 began allowing volunteers to join
them on its shoe drops in Argentina. Interest surged, and the company formed TOMS
Tours. The group offers eight-day trips to Argentina and, as of this year, tours to New
Orleans and South Africa. During a typical trip, half the time is spent distributing
the shoes and the rest on local excursions—from horseback riding along Argentina’s
Salta region to spying animals in South Africa’s Ubizane Wildlife Reserve. The trips
are well organized and the doing-good hands-on. The only catch? Participants must
endure a considerable wait to secure a spot.The cost (and what’s included) varies
but ranges from $350 to $3,500 a person; friendsoftoms.org
Elevate Destinations creates bespoke trips to Africa,
Asia, and the Americas that incorporate short-term volunteer opportuni-
ties. When possible, Elevate books eco-luxe accommodations and always
donates a percentage of its profits to the protection of the destination’s
natural resources and community. elevatedestinations.com
Great Finds:
The Indigenous
Crafts Expert
I buy argan oil from Morocco, sold by a super cool
company called Kahina–Giving Beauty. The company
helps Berber women, who have few opportunities to earn
money, form cooperatives to extract the oil from the
argan nut and create this amazing, not-too-expensive
product that works for the skin, hair, feet, and hands.
—Marcella Echavarria, founder of
SURevolution, which markets indigenous crafts
60 Smart Luxury 2009 ShermansTravel.com
Rethymno on the island of Crete
crete, Greece
Avli Lounge Apartments
A Unique boutique hotel with an old soul
Crete, the biggest and most majestic of the Greek
islands, is admired by visitors for its long golden sand beaches, mountain
scenery, and cultural heritage spanning four millennia. On the north coast,
the city of Rethymno contains a beautifully preserved old town, guarded
by a sturdy fortress, and made up of pastel-colored Venetian-era mansions
with wrought-iron balconies, bohemian bars, antique stores, and craft
shops. Its picturesque harbor is filled with wooden fishing boats and ringed
by seafood tavernas. Down a cobbled alley, visitors can find a place that’s
still somewhat of a secret: Along with a restaurant and wine bar, Avli pro-
vides as an exquisite family-run boutique hotel in a restored 15th-century
building. Although Crete has a few modern resorts that hit all the expected
luxury angles, nothing matches the homespun care and atmosphere at
Avli. Each of the seven spacious suites is decorated with a mix of antiques,
local folk art, and richly textured furniture, linens, and curtains (velvet,
PHOTOS.COM. Opposite: virgile simon bertrand/
satin, suede, and leather abound). Such an assortment placed amid simple
wooden floors, exposed-beam ceilings, and whitewashed stone walls
results in a look at once eclectic and glamorous. While four suites have
marble bathrooms with Jacuzzis, the other three provocatively present
freestanding Jacuzzis in the bedrooms. Avli’s restaurant, a destination in
COURTESY SEVVA HONG KONG
itself, serves a quirky blend of Crete’s traditional cuisine (a surprisingly
light take on Mediterranean tropes) as well as modern dashes of invention
(rose petal pasta with chicken, arugula, and parmesan). Feast inside the
property’s courtyard garden amid palms, lemon trees, and bougainvillea,
and at night, the glow of candlelight. From $316/night; avli.gr
High above the Aegean Sea on the cliffs of Santorini’s
capital city of Fira, Enigma Apartments & Suites offers views of the
island’s volcano and old port—and serene, azure-blue waters all
around. From $240/night; enigmahotel.com
The terrace at Sevva
Sonoma, California
Hotel Healdsburg
wine country hotel perfection
Hotel Healdsburg, in the town of the same name in
California’s Sonoma County, is the kind of place that some oenophiles wish
were more common. With its preference for sleek contemporary design over
lacy froufrou, and 55 rooms with hardwood floors, teak beds, and poured
concrete bathroom counters, the hotel is a change from the plethora of
predictable wine-country venues—and a lot more high-tech to boot. Cool,
wired rooms aside, the Healdsburg features the perks of a destination resort,
but at a fraction of the cost. Its six-room spa, offering a long treatment menu
using local products, has a dedicated couple’s suite. The lobby bar marries
rawhide footstools with a massive fireplace and is the site of free wine
tastings. Perhaps best of all, the hotel is also home to Charlie Palmer’s Dry
Creek Kitchen—one of the finest tables this side of Napa—which, luckily for
visitors, also preps the sumptuous breakfasts included in the rates. Plus, the
Healdsburg is within walking distance of several great tasting rooms (at La
Crema, Souverain, and Kendall Jackson wineries, among others). From $340/
night; hotelhealdsburg.com It would be a crime to make
no mention of the Farmhouse Inn, a perennial favorite in Forestville,
California, just outside Healdsburg with 18 modern cottages, rooms,
and suites. Guests flock to its outstanding, Michelin-starred restau-
rant. From $295/night; farmhouseinn.com
Hong Kong
Sevva
A Cocktail bar with a view
If the Sex and the City cast ever made a movie sequel in Hong
Kong, the group would feel at home nursing cocktails at Sevva (pronounced “savor”).
There, Joseph Boroski, a New York bartender who cameoed in the HBO series,
produces beyond-Cosmo concoctions like a Bloody Mary flavored with wasabi and
lemongrass; a caipirinha made with cabbage; and gin flavored with Chinese tea.
The brainchild of socialite and former fashion exec Bonnie Gokson, Sevva inhabits a
22,000-square-foot space on the 25th floor of Central Hong Kong’s Prince’s Build-
ing. In-your-face views of the city’s most distinctive towers (Norman Foster’s HSBC
headquarters and I. M. Pei’s Bank of China building) make the wraparound terrace the
hottest perch in the city. Sunset cocktail hours, with Cuban pop on Wednesdays and
Thursdays and a saxophonist on Fridays, are especially popular. Indoors, the Carrie
Bradshaws of Hong Kong play out scenes in the Taste Bar (with tapas and wine), Ms.
B’s Sweets (a cake shop with a 1950s chandelier designed for the British embassy in
Rome), or two grand dining rooms, including one with a luminous vaulted ceiling.
Other Hong Kong spots may earn higher marks for food and service but Sevva’s mix
of memorable cocktails and unforgettable views provides the high point of a night
on the town. sevvahk.com The Chinese junk Aqua Luna provides
another one of Hong Kong’s best views, but at sea level. The 45-minute sail-
ings around Victoria Harbour offer tasty cocktails and snacks along the way.
$19–$23; aqua.com.hk

Minetta Tavern
New York City
Minetta Tavern
The Big Apple’s Best bar menu (and people-watching)
Make no mistake: A $14 martini will never pass for a great value in our book.
Neither will $96 dry-aged Côte de Boeuf for two, no matter how spectacular. The Minetta
Tavern, a 72-year-old Greenwich Village bistro recently taken over by master restaurateur
Keith McNally, serves both. Yet beyond the seemingly impenetrable reservation system lies
a timeless and tasty, uniquely New York value of a meal. Here’s how to get it: Go early in the
week, forgo notions of a table, and wait for seats at the original wooden bar. Order a martini,
or something similarly soul-warming. Bask in the beautiful, historic room’s glow, its convivial
hum and swirl. Next, order the Minetta burger—not the famed $26 Pat La Frieda Black Label
burger—but the $16 one, with its juicy blend of short rib and brisket—hardly pedestrian.
This embodies a truer burger taste, whereas the Black Label comes off as more of a steak-y
interloper, heavy and rich—another meal for another time. For now, as the days grow shorter
and colder, no repast will come off more warmly sublime than the bar burger-and-martini
combo at Minetta—rendered even tastier by the satisfaction of dining like a regular at one of
the most fashionable restaurants in town. minettatavernny.com During
a year of fancy restaurants opening casual outposts and casual food getting fancy
treatments, Corton—a fancy restaurant serving fancy food—opened to spectacular
success in New York’s Tribeca. Here, whiz kid chef Paul Liebrandt consistently turns
out envelope-pushing food that’s both scrumptious and refined. cortonnyc.com
62 Smart Luxury 2009 ShermansTravel.com
The world
Avalon Waterways
Big ambition on a small boat line
It may be a newcomer to the river cruising
business, but Avalon Waterways has been holding its own against
time-tested veterans with its innovative designs, a batch of youthful
ships, and fulfilling shore excursions—thanks in part to a partnership
with Globus, one of the world’s leading tour operators. This year the
European-based cruise line unveiled two new vessels and plans to
launch two more next spring. Guests can enjoy an intimate setting
without feeling (or hearing) that they are aboard a small ship. Cabins
offer at least 172 square feet of space (junior suites grant 254) and
almost all boast scenic French balconies. The twin beds best the
folding Pullman couches found on many competitors’ ships. The ships
provide a quieter voyage with their engines located in the stern.The
Sky Deck lowers when the ships pass under bridges; even the furniture
collapses. This sleek design allows for a fourth deck (many river cruise
lines just contain three), meaning there’s room for luxuries like a fit-
ness center, whirlpool, hair salon, and upper-level bar and lounge. The
vessels are flooded with natural light, even inside the open-seating
style restaurants that serve cuisine matched to the destinations
and paired with complimentary regional wine. The all-inclusive
rates cover shore excursions at every port of call, regardless of one’s
stateroom selection. Avalon also offers a varied set of fine itineraries,
from a Danube route connecting Prague and Bucharest, Romania, to
an assortment of trips combining Yangtze River cruising with visits
to China’s historic and cultural sites. A five-day Danube River cruise
starts at $949 a person; avalonwaterways.com For
those who would rather ease their way into small-ship cruis-
ing, Holland America’s mid-size fleet offers spacious cabins London
and a truly intimate experience while retaining some of the
hallmarks (and ease) of big-ship cruising. hollandamerica.com The Wolseley
The perfect acclimatizing meal
Of all the restaurants in food-crazy London, why pick
a 6-year-old joint, mentioned in all the guide books and where it’s hard
to get a reservation, that serves excellent but not transportive food?
Great Finds:
The Adventure
Hear us out. There are meals that instantly, magically orient travelers
to a place: breakfast at Balthazar in New York City, say, or a burger at an
Tour Guru In-N-Out in L.A. So while London does have more sophisticated culinary
options, nothing settles a visitor into the flow of the city better than
Scouting new itineraries this spring, I crossed sitting down for dinner in one of The Wolseley’s comfortable ban-
the Andes on horseback. We rode for nine days along the quettes and joining the hum of bankers celebrating a day’s deals, Bond
Puelo Valley, in Chile and Argentina, following a trail of the Street shoppers pawing over their purchases, and West End tourists
old pioneers. There were no roads, no electricity, and thankfully planning nights at the theater. Delicious bistro fare—such as salad
no mobile coverage. We ate berries from the bushes, drank niçoise or a double lamb chop with bubble and squeak—is served on
water from the mountain streams, and swam in the turquoise hotel silver commissioned just for the restaurant (and, shrewdly, sold
rivers. We traveled with gauchos, stayed at private homes, and on its website). The cavernous room was a Barclays branch and, before
enjoyed wonderful barbecues and the fine local wine. that, a showroom for Wolseley automobiles. It seems old world and
It was a perfect blend of adventure with comfort, isolation with modern, everyday and special. Just like London. thewolseley.com
BILL PHELPS
accessibility, tranquillity with jaw-dropping beauty. Le Gavroche is the gold standard for French
—Jonny Bealby, owner of
dining in London. It’s been that way for years. Restaurants come
Wild Frontiers, a London-based and go, and this Mayfair fixture endures. If you said to anybody,
adventure tour company
“Where are you going for lunch?” And the answer was Gavroche,
you’d just sigh, “Okay.” le-gavroche.co.uk
ShermansTravel.com Smart Luxury 2009 63

Kichwa Tembo Safari Camp
Masai Mara, Kenya
Kichwa Tembo Safari Camp
An Exclusive adventure in A Savannah wonderland
On the secluded western border of the Masai Mara Game Reserve in Kenya
among the tall grassy plains of the Serengeti lies Kichwa Tembo, a tented luxury safari
camp. Kichwa Tembo’s relationship to the land is unique—it is the only camp on Masai Mara
grounds, thanks to an exclusive partnership with its Masai landlords. Unlike the eastern side
of the Masai Mara, usually overrun by travelers on package tours and in crowded jeeps, the
company keeps its comfortable open-viewing jeep excursions capped at six people and offers
lectures by Masai naturalists. It is also the only company allowed to lead safaris at night.
The Great Migration of wildebeest and zebra passes right through Kichwa’s reserve every
June through August, and guests can watch the incredible drama of life and death among 2
million animals unfold without leaving the campgrounds—or for that matter, the swimming
pool. The camp contains 40 spacious canvas tents with en suite bathrooms, stone showers,
and private verandas, all shaded by the forest canopy. Guests rave about the lantern-lit
dinners in the bush that feature fresh pan-African cuisine and salad ingredients from the
camp’s shamba (vegetable garden). From $285/night per person; andbeyondafrica.com
Bateleur Camp, the sister camp to Kichwa Tembo in Kenya, stakes
only nine tents on each of its two sites, granting guests an even more secluded and
quiet stay. From $595/night; andbeyondafrica.com
64 Smart Luxury 2009 ShermansTravel.com
Hotel de la Paix
NEVIS, west indies
Golden Rock Inn
Laid-back boho bonhomie
While some gravitate to splashy resorts around the Caribbean
hoping for a celebrity sighting or a hot-stone spa treatment, a different type of
escapist seeks out the Golden Rock Inn in Nevis. High in forested hills near a volcano,
this former sugar plantation serves as a painstakingly preserved time capsule of the
early 1800s, a time when tiny Nevis was a commercial nexus dubbed the “Queen of
the Caribbees.” Scattered over Golden Rock Inn’s 100 acres are cheerful gingerbread
cottages with spectacular views of Antigua and Montserrat along the horizon.
Plenteous tropical trees, plants, and flowers provide a happy habitat for families of
affable vervet monkeys. New co-owners Brice Marden, the celebrated painter from
New York, and his wife, Helen Harrington, also a painter, oversaw a total renova-
tion and set up a studio where they work. Staying on, though now as a partner, is
knowledgeable host Pam Barry, whose great-great-great-grandfather built the
Golden Rock estate. She didn’t inherit the inn, but instead has worked on salary since
the 1970s to gain a share. Completed last summer is a restaurant that serves top-
notch West Indian cuisine, a must-visit venue even for those not staying at the inn.
Candlelit tables are set among small, interconnected pools, near a gazebo with a
crown reminiscent of the copper kettles used to boil the estate’s sugar cane. Inquire
about the old stone windmill, converted into a dreamy duplex. The mill books up
SIeM REAP, cambodia
Hotel de la Paix
far in advance, but it’s worth trying for. From $200/night; www.golden-rock.com
The Lupinacci family of Philadelphia has run the quaint
Hermitage Plantation on Nevis since 1971, and every aspect of the place,
from the horses that guests are encouraged to ride to the timber-frame A tropical boutique that makes a difference
gingerbread cottages filled with curios, conveys an unforgettable sense In Siem Reap, the small Cambodian city near the historic sites
of place. From $200/night with breakfast; hermitagenevis.com of Angkor Wat, resides a handful of seriously stylish hotels. None is more striking
than Hotel de la Paix, designed by Bill Bensley, who’s celebrated for places like the
Four Seasons in Chiang Mai, Thailand. But what makes this hotel more than just an
ultra-chic stopover close to Angkor’s ruins is its connection to its surroundings, and
Golden Rock Inn’s
courtyard dining area the low-key, sensitive way the hotel’s management gives back to the still desper-
FROM TOP: COURTESY ATIVA HOSPITALITY; JENSEY CLAIRE/COURTESY GOLDEN ROCK
ately poor community. Hotel de la Paix’s sister property, Shinta Mani, operates a
Great Finds: working hospitality school, and La Paix sponsors the Sewing Training Center, or-
The Antique phanages, and a program providing bicycles to schoolchildren. The hotel’s top-rated
restaurant, Meric, is headed by a Lyonnais chef who initially came to Cambodia to
Jewelry Expert teach professional cooking to locals. He speaks fluent Khmer and creates haute
cuisine out of traditional Khmer ingredients—from regional spice pastes to the
The Grand Bazaar in Istanbul has many jewelry stores, notoriously fragrant durian fruit. Stays at the hotel offer a blissful mix of cultural
most of which claim to have antique jewelry but actually immersion and comfort. Rooms have modern decor with intricately carved wooden
carry modern reproductions. I had limited time, so I headboards and terrazzo soaking tubs in generous-size bathrooms. Duplex spa
PLANTATION. Opposite, COURTESY CC AFRICA
basically ran through the whole bazaar ruling out stores suites incorporate curving staircases that rise to a loft space with massage tables,
if they had reproductions in their windows. I finally came a private outdoor garden, and a small plunge pool. The hotel’s three-story spa is
upon a tiny space tucked into the back of one of the little reached by a bridge, over a semi-enclosed pool, that extends into the gardens. The
alley-like rows. It was owned by a Mr. Ronan and had real hotel offers an iPod upload of music and a guided audio tour of Angkor Wat. Hotel
antique pieces. I purchased a few ancient intaglio rings de la Paix has partnered with the One Hotel group and McDermott Gallery to open
that were beautifully carved with classical motifs. AHA, Cambodia’s first wine bar serving Khmer and European small plates on
—Elizabeth Doyle, co-owner of Doyle & Doyle, The Passage, a fashionable pedestrian alley. From $220/night; hoteldelapaix
a New York City jewelry shop angkor.com Just upstairs from AHA is Hotel Be Angkor,
three rooms (two with rooftop lounges) decorated with work by local
artists like Sopheap Pich’s rattan and bamboo sculptures. From $95/night;
hotelbeangkor.com
ShermansTravel.com Smart Luxury 2009 65

Camden, Maine
Camden Harbour Inn
An uncommon seaside retreat
Eggplant-hued carpets and red tasseled chandeliers aren’t
the first thing that come to mind when one imagines a seaside Maine inn.
Yet somehow the new owners of Camden Harbour Inn have combined
these elements, with a raft of other fashion-forward design touches, and
created a supremely satisfying Maine getaway midway along its coast.
Raymond Brunyanksi and Oscar Verest, two transplants from the Netherlands,
purchased the 18-room property in 2007 and embarked on an epic makeover.
Along with bringing a modern aesthetic, they also introduced a spa and hired
a talented chef named Lawrence Klang to helm their restaurant, Natalie’s.
Meals there vary from the complex—chevre, cucumber, and lobster gazpacho
with avocado gel and mustard-curry oil—to blissfully simple salads. From
$175/night; camdenharbourinn.com
In posh Kennebunkport, Maine, The White Barn Inn
is best known for its outstanding restaurant, stationed in a barn from
the 1820s. Yet its country-rustic rooms and top-drawer service deserve
equal praise. All in all, a stay there equals one of Maine’s most refined
experiences from beginning to end. From $390/night, includes breakfast
and afternoon tea, whitebarninn.com
The Camden Harbour Inn
66 Smart Luxury 2009 ShermansTravel.com
A hot springs waterfall and pool at the Evason Ma’In
Jordan
Evason Ma’In
An Eco-friendly desert oasis
For years, Jordan’s biggest tourist draw was the ancient
carved-in-stone city of Petra. But a slate of new luxury hotels and spas suggest the
country may become the Middle East’s premier spa-resort destination. The best of-
fering is the revamped Evason Ma’In and Six Senses Spa, a cool outpost at the base
of scorched cliffs, just inland from the Dead Sea and an hour’s drive southwest of
Amman. The resort is surrounded by hot spring waterfalls, fertile olive groves, and
burgeoning gardens. Its 97 rooms, outfitted with fine woods, lend stunning valley or
waterfall vistas. Embracing sustainable practices, the five restaurants at the Ma’In
serve cuisine largely sourced from nearby farms. The spacious spa favors resort-
grown ingredients like olives for signature treatments performed beside a natural
thermal pool. A tented outdoor restaurant serves traditional meals prepared by
local Bedouins in charcoal-fired pits in the ground. Conveniently for travelers, Ma’In
is located close to many of Jordan’s archaeological and cultural sites. Opt for one
of the hotel’s packages that include guided tours, as well as spa treatments and
meals. Three-night, all-inclusive Enchanting Jordan package from $3,135 for two;
sixsenses.com/evason-ma-in The Kempinski Hotel Ishtar Dead
Sea made a splash when it opened three years ago along Jordan’s longest
private beach, 34 miles southwest of Amman. Today it remains the place to
float in the Dead Sea. Trimmings include an infinity pool, seaview rooms,
and a gorgeous new spa. From $266/night; kempinski-deadsea.com
FROM TOP: JORG SUNDERMANN/COURTESY SIX SENSES
RESORTS & SPAS; COURTESY CAMDEN HARBOUR INN
Great Finds:
Paris
The Breakout Hotel des Academies et des Arts
Hotelier An homage to the left bank’s arty heritage
I was driving around the California desert
near Palm Springs, exploring its small Paris is a city of old buildings and little rooms. For years its smaller hotels relied on embellishments of Louis-whatever fur-
towns—Indio, 29 Palms, Joshua Tree, and niture, brocade, and chintz to distract from the fact that the bathrooms happened to be down the hall. A few boutique hotels have recently
Pioneertown—and met a lot of amazing artists embraced a decidedly avant-garde aesthetic while attempting to remedy the shortcomings of their predecessors. Owners Laurent and
and artisans creating beautiful work and Charlotte Inchauspé infused Hotel des Academies et des Arts with the artistic lifeblood that coursed through the Left Bank in its heyday,
living out in these homesteader cabins. providing for a singularly Parisian experience (Modigliani kept a studio on the hotel’s fifth floor). Each room bears a theme such as Parisi-
Many of them ended up contributing to enne, Comédienne (inspired by ’20s party girl Kiki de Montparnasse), Man Ray (the palette is black and white), and Ruhlmann (dedicated to
our new hotel in Palm Springs. the Art Deco pioneer). Throughout the hotel are wall paintings by Jérôme Mesnager—of white bodies that climb, lean, and dance—forms
—Alex Calderwood, owner echoed by sculptures by Sophie de Watrigant (Charlotte’s mother). From $279/night; hotel-des-academies.com Paris has
of Ace Hotels no shortage of pricey properties, yet 100-year-old Hotel de Crillon, right on the Place de la Concorde, distinguishes itself with
rooms that ooze neoclassical Parisian pomp and stiff yet thoughtful service. From $790/night; crillon.com
ShermansTravel.com Smart Luxury 2009 67
 Smart luxury almanac
The exchange rate

Essay Average U.S. Daily Hotel Rate $1.80

$1.60
City Aug. 2008 Aug. 2009 Change

VALUE IN U.S. DOLLARS

The Picky,Picky,Picky
$1.40
New York $282 $200 -29% $1.20
Pound United Kingdom
Euro European Union
Chicago $190 $150 -21% $1.00 Dollar Australia
Las Vegas $107 $84 -21%

Hotel Veteran Tells All

$0.80 Real Brazil

San Diego $157 $128 -19% $0.60

Sources: NYC & Company; Chicago Convention and Tourism Bureau; Las Vegas Convention and Visitors Authority; $0.40 Source: U.S. Federal Reserve
San Diego Convention and Visitors Bureau.
Sept. 2008 Dec. 2008 Mar. 2009 June 2009 Sept. 2009

I have spent hours, weeks, decades pondering the nature of luxury when applied This you cannot buy. It’s as if we’ve traveled all the way to Planet Two-
to hotels, and it’s clear as mud: Luxury is a collection of symptoms resulting in a Kinds-of-Robe-and-a-Pillow-Menu only to find the best hotels were there all
general contagion of good feelings. Simple. along. It’s the experience, stupid. Thus, I remember some distinctly frill-free Travel forecaster Amenity watch
Yes, but like the perfect roast chicken or white shirt, this simple feat is so hard examples of luxury: a whitewashed cinder-block box on the French Riviera, How broad trends and global events may influence travel habits in 2010 The Marmara Antalya in Turkey
to pull off well, especially in this era of Twittering Tripadvisors. We’re all onto the whose enormous mustachioed Albanian owner considered us family; and on broad trends Global events Bullish unveils clifftop guest rooms that
old hospitality tricks. You can’t fool us with a bath concierge and a pre-threaded the Greek island of Sifnos, a spotless cell with a monkish bed lovingly decked slowly rotate 360 degrees.
sewing kit—not even one with mini scissors. We are picky, picky, picky. out with flowers and a single snow-white, sandpapery towel by its patronne. At Housekeeping staff at Seattle’s Hotel
Do you remember when it seemed grand to find a chocolate on the pillow the other end of the scale, there was the suite with the gym at One Aldwych in LOCAVORE 1000 use infrared sensors to detect if
MOVEMENT RECESSION a room is occupied.
(now a sure sign of a déclassé joint)? When staff using your name signified luxe? London, imbued with the merry iconoclasm and modernist perfectionism of
To shield guests from bad news,
When there wasn’t Frette? I do. In fact, being blessed—or cursed—with total owner-founder Gordon Campbell Gray; there was the 10-square-foot mosquito-
The Westin Times Square offers to
hotel recall, I can mentally scan the layout, test the bed, critique the decor of netted bed of the Dog House room at eco-pioneer Tongabezi in Zambia, with CULTURal unplug visitors’ televisions, hide
IMMERSION ken burns
rooms I inhabited for one night during grade school. I can feel the ambience personality in every handbuilt inch; and there was the beige, corporate-looking the remote control, and cancel
of a junior suite, on Raiatea island, that I toured for 5 minutes in 1993. I can suite at the Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea that melted my demanding, newspaper delivery.
compare and contrast every room of the five new Paris hotels I saw last year. rococo-loving girlfriend’s resistance to its blandness (especially when, in the SMALLER U.n. Climate The Rancho Bernardo Inn in San Diego
IS BETTER Conference in lets guests forfeit room amenities—
This dubious gift has limited applications, but it did win me a nice gig 15 gym, Arnold Schwarzenegger said she was “lööking gut”). Copenhagen Bearish
upsurge in including A/C and even the bed—in
years ago. That year I was a bestower of the coveted Mobil Five-Star Award, I didn’t like the look of that place, but thanks to intuitive, beyond-the-call ser- RIVEr CRUISING Crowding at U.S.
NATionaL PARKS exchange for a discounted rate.
obliged to stay at least two nights in every five-star hotel and many four-star vice, I could not for the life of me find serious fault. I couldn’t even find comedy
properties in the western half of the United States. You can imagine how tough fault. The staff made us feel special, which is as luxurious as a feeling gets. It was

Top Destinations of 2010

that was. I earned my PhD in picky, picky, picky figuring out what takes a lodg- thanks to a distinctive warmth that the Maui hotel shares with the best of its sis- 1. Seoul In this bustling metropolis,
ing over the edge from fancy to phenomenal. ters. According to the Four Seasons’ famously courteous and soft-spoken founder, ancient palaces sit cheek to jowl with
It was an interesting moment in hospitality—1995. It turned out to be the wa- chairman, and CEO Isadore “Issy” Sharp, that quality is built into the business sybaritic nightlife spots and street carts
tershed year when fake Louis gilt and “it’s my pleasure” robo-service gave way to plan. In fact, he claims the entire 80-hotel empire is founded on a single overrid- the places we can’t wait to check out peddling savory cuisine.
“Design.” Before, luxury played on the collective nostalgia for steamer trunks and ing principle: “Do unto others as you would have them do unto you.” 2. Charleston, South Carolina
butlers. Brochures—remember them?—aimed for a glowy patina of aristocratic Does this mean the world’s largest luxury hotel operator is as cuddly as a Charleston’s chefs have recently been
flexing their creativity, taking traditional
privilege. Then, suddenly, we had concrete bathrooms with no shelves, beds at Beanie Baby (in fact, there is one named for him)? Maybe not—especially now Southern fare up a notch in sophisticated
rakish angles clad in fake zebra, giant lampshades, glass walls, headboards lettered that the brand has had to fight to retain its mystique in the face of this year’s new restaurants.
dream on, and desk staff dressed in white who can’t speak English or see you. recession, new owners (Bill Gates!), and disgruntled hotel partners. Still, 3. Panama This skinny country offers rain
Nowadays, after many years of trial and error, there are plenty of chic, mod there’s a solidity to that foundation. “Everybody in [each] hotel realizes their forests, beaches, and mountains ripe for
places whose staff admit that the point of a hotel is to look after the guest. Many job is essential to the whole place,” Issy Sharp says. “This way you attract— exploration, and fewer tourists than its
are independents, but there are also young chains catering to the groovier, and retain—the brightest and the best.” fellow Central American countries. But
this won’t last forever.
savvier traveler—the Kimptons and Viceroys and Standards—and, early in So, spare us the poolside water misting and artisanal minibars. Just give a
the new era, vast Starwood mated its corporate values to the high-design ethic lodging humanity and continuity. Insert generations of hardworking people 4. Istanbul Named the 2010 European
Capital of Culture, this East-meets-West
and gave birth to the W. The best of this breed has added a new layer of luxury utterly dedicated to our comfort, and the very walls will absorb their traces and city is burnishing its historic attrac-
by offering attributes of the costliest places at a more realistic price point. Of beam it back. In a hotel room, we are powerless. Like infants, we’re dependent tions and will host a plethora of notable
course, that alone is not enough. Deep pampering results from attention to on others for everything. It’s awful when they ignore us, or barge in on us, or cultural events.
detail and a carefully calibrated personal warmth. Then, to tip the balance, a take an hour to bring the coffee, but when it all works, Heaven. 5. Egypt Whether because of President
hotel needs something extra besides. The Factor X (and the difference between —Kate Sekules was the editor in chief of Culture & Travel, the travel editor Barack Obama’s Cairo speech in June or
a four-star joint and a five-star) is a central, unmistakable quality not connected of Food + Wine, and a Five-Star Award reviewer for Mobil Guides, and has the recent discovery of a 4,300-year-old
pyramid in Saqqara, the classic
to price: A true luxury hotel is uncompromisingly itself. written or consulted on dozens of guide books for Fodor’s and Frommer’s. destination is seeing a resurgence of
interest among travelers.

68 Smart Luxury 2009 ShermansTravel.com

25 Others We Love ...
Hotel 1000 Seattle Befitting its home in
Microsoftland, this hip hotel plies guests with
reams of cool gadgets. From $200/night;
hotel1000seattle.com
The Angler’s Boutique Miami In a
town where the service can be hit-and-miss,
this restful, away-from-the-herd South Beach
hotel treats every guest like a VIP. From $175/
night; theanglersresort.com
Avec Chicago With esoteric yet affordable
wines, house-cured charcuterie, and rustic-
Mediterranean small plates, Avec lives up to
the considerable praise critics have bestowed
on it. avecrestaurant.com
Cavas Wine Lodge Lujan de Cuyo, Ar-
gentina Set in a private vineyard in Mendoza,
the dreamy lodge has 14 decadent rooms,
each with a private pool, a terrace, an outdoor
shower, and stunning Andes views. From
$290/night; cavaswinelodge.com
Como Shambhala Estate at
Begawan Giri Ubud, Bali Roving between
doctors, yogis, energy healers, nutritionists,
and life coaches, guests binge on wellness in
a paradisiacal setting. A five-day rejuvenation
package from $3,645 a person;
cse.como.bz
Crystal Symphony Crystal Cruises
completed a makeover of its already-
plush, 922-guest Crystal Symphony ship and
spruced up the Prego restaurant, Lido Cafe,
pool areas, and all 63 penthouses.
crystalcruises.com
Deep Blue View Bonaire Dutch owners
Esther Wiegerink and Menno de Bree (plus
two burly hounds) warmly welcome guests to
their five-room B&B–style resort with poolside
barbecues, delicious food, and customized
diving programs. From $1,250 a week for two
people; deepblueview.com
domaine de la sasse Megeve, France
In a secluded farmhouse 5 miles from the
chichi ski resort of Megeve, chef Dominique
Méridol serves a handful of guests an unfor-
gettable tasting menu derived from his own
herd of bison. 33/6-09-90-3029
Fairmont Banff Springs Banff,
Canada “The Castle in the Rockies” has
catered to visitors for 120 years amid
a stunning alpine milieu. When not
hiking around, guests can frequent the
renowned spa and championship-quality
golf course. From $250/night; fairmont.com/
banffsprings
The Farm at Cape Kidnappers
Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand The New
Zealand golf resort, perched on 600-foot-high
cliffs, is buffeted by the area’s fabled winds.
Its dramatic course will humble even the
most savvy player. Suites from $580/night;
capekidnappers.com
the fish pot Shermans, Barbados
Other Bajan restaurants (such as The Cliffs)
boast grander settings but the Fish Pot—with
its fresh, nicely priced seafood and breezy
setting on the sand—still seems like a secret.
littlegoodharbourbarbados.com
Four Seasons Gresham Palace
Budapest When the Four Seasons took
over this 1904 Art Nouveau–style palace, it
preserved the history but considerably upped
the grandeur. Reserving a room facing the
Danube is a must. From $290/night;
fourseasons.com/budapest
Four Seasons Hualalai Big Island,
Hawaii Aside from relaxing in the seaside
resort’s newly spiffed-up spa and deluxe
suites, guests can play on a Jack Nicklaus–
designed golf course or snorkel with rays in
the saltwater King’s Pond. From $595/night;
fourseasons.com/hualalai
fran’s chocolates Seattle One of the
nation’s top chocolatiers (the First Family are
devotees), Fran Bigelow has handcrafted her
confections for more than two decades. She
recently opened an elegant, Parisian-style
shop in the Four Seasons Seattle.
franschocolates.com
El Monte Sagrado Taos, New Mexico
A holistic spa, an award-winning restaurant,
and locally influenced decor conspire for
a standout Taos venue. From $189/night;
elmontesagrado.com
Home Ranch Clark, Colorado Set amid
aspen groves in the Rockies, this dude ranch
boasts the cuisine and digs to match its Relais
& Chateaux status—and a top-notch riding
program to boot. From $570/night in the
winter; homeranch.com
Italy by Vintage Car Italy Car aficio-
nados can zip along Italian Job–style behind
the wheel of, say, a 1974 Alfa Romeo Spider
or 1964 Lancia Flaminia GT, following one of
six perk-packed itineraries that include stays
at prime hotels. From $4,890 a person for two
nights; vintagecartour.com
Ka’Ana Resort San Ignacio, Belize
A room at this small enclave doesn’t come
cheap, but it’s a very special place that com-
bines super personable service and great food
with access to awesome jungle outings (which
may explain all the gung-ho honeymooners).
From $250/night; kaanabelize.com
Kinloch Lodge Isle of Skye, Scotland
Visitors bunk down in the cozy rooms of this
17th-century hunting lodge to dine at the
restaurant and take cooking lessons from the
affable owner, Lady Claire Macdonald. From
$159/night a person; kinloch-lodge.co.uk
Mollies Auckland, New Zealand
Staying in one of Mollies’s 13 suites can seem
akin to shacking up with a wealthy, eclectic
friend—who happens to possess a great art
collection and hosts nightly opera perfor-
mances. From $331/night; mollies.co.nz
Hotel Neri Barcelona, Spain Located in a
secluded plaza in the heart of the city, this chic
hotel offers craftsman-finished elegance and
great views of the Gothic Quarter. From $400/
night; hotelneri.com
North Captiva Island club resort
Florida With a variety of rental houses, this
quirky, pretty island can be the setting for an
ideal getaway for those seeking quiet surf and
sand. northcaptiva.com
osterreicher im mak Vienna, Austria
Inside the Museum of Applied Art, this chic
restaurant has a menu split between tradi-
tional gourmet Viennese dishes and modern
inventions. oesterreicherimmak.at
Selene Fira, Santorini, Greece In Greece
it’s easy to overpay for a meal that’s a replica
of the uninspiring one the night before: Not
so at Selene, which even after 20-plus years is
still creating interesting, delicious cuisine in a
lovely setting. selene.gr
sense, a rosewood Spa New York City
The Caryle’s new spa Sense is doing every-
thing right, from its understated Art Deco
decor to its highly capable aestheticians who
leave guests with the impression their money
is well spent. thecarlyle.com
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Becca Bergman,
Jennifer Bernstein, Arabella Bowen, J. Gabriel
Boylan, Laurel Delp, Jane Foster, Darren Frei,
Stephanie Johnnidis, Cemile Kavountzis, Anja
Mutíc, Amber Nolan, Elissa Richard, Victoria de
Silverio, and Norman Vanamee
PHOTO SHOOT CREDITS Photographed
for Sherman’s Travel by Daymion Mardel for
Rona Represents at Go Studios in New York.
Drawings created for Sherman’s Travel by
Mariko Jesse for Marlena Agency. Model,
Milena for Wilhelmina Models; fashion styl-
ist, Donald Lawrence for Rona Represents;
fashion stylist assistant, T. J. Gustave; hair,
Kevin Woon for Jed Root and Woon Salon;
makeup, Wendy Karcher for Make Up For
Ever; nails, Ana-Maria for Artists By Timothy
Priano and Onyx Salon & Spa. Page 50: Hat
and veil, Leah C. Millinery; necklace, R. J.
Graziano; gown, Vincente Villarin; gloves,
LaCrasia; shoes, Giuseppe Zanotti. Page 56:
Earrings, R. J. Graziano; fur coat and watch,
Helen Yarmak; ring, Alexis Bittar; blouse,
Josef Statkus; slacks, Kimberly Ovitz; stock-
ings, Cosabella; shoes, Tania Spinelli.
Page 63: Earrings, R. J. Graziano; gown,
Vicente Villarin; gloves, LaCrasia; stockings,
Cosabella; shoes, Tania Spinelli. Page 67:
Sculpture by Roxy Paine, Scumak, 2007
courtesy the artist and James Cohan Gallery
in New York. Glasses, Fabulous Fanny’s;
earrings and necklace, R. J. Graziano; fur
top, Helen Yarmak; gloves, LaCrasia; clutch,
A. Testoni; skirt, Josef Statkus; stockings,
Cosabella; shoes, Giuseppe Zanotti.