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Construyendo un makiwara

06 Domingo Mar 2011

Posted by Dojo Kyohan in Varios

≈ 2 comentarios

Etiquetas

bricolaje, hojo undo, makiwara

Hoy, a pesar del día mustio, me decidí a construir el makiwara que tenía pendiente desde
octubre. Por una cosa u otra nunca era el momento.

El gran problema de nuestro local es que colocar un makiwara en la pared o columna


supone una gran molestia para los vecinos y no queremos andar molestando a nadie así que
me puse a ver diferentes tipos de soportes, diseños de makiwaras y otras soluciones.

Al final entre lo que había pensado y la ayuda de Juan Beltran y Víctor López me puse
manos a la obra.

Compré las maderas en un almacén(20€) y la tornillería no llegó a los 4€. Así que el
material no alcanzó los 25,00€. Bastante económico.

Lo primero que hicimos, el jefe del proyecto ha sido mi padre, fue la base donde asentará el
lastre:
Las medidas se han tomado conforme a los
lastres que no los ha cedido un amigo carpintero que tiene bloques de los que sujetan las
vallas de obras.

Tras eso colocamos el trozo de madera donde irá sujeto el mástil de golpeo. Quedando así:

Para que tenga más aguante decidimos colocar un travesaño que hará de puntal ante los
golpes:
Acto seguido acoplamos el mástil de pegada, va sujeto con cuatro tornillos pasantes, con
arandelas y tuercas autoblocantes. La idea es que se desmonte fácilmente en caso de tener
que transportarla o sustituir esa parte:

 
 

Hice una pequeña prueba y no nos gustó nada la solidez del conjunto así que tras analizar el
problema resolvimos que venía de la comba que hacía la madera central de la base al recibir
el impacto. Quizás la madera elegida era demasiado flexible y por eso pensamos en
añadirle un travesaño más.

 
 

Ahora sí, la solidez era la adecuada y por ello nos pusimos a terminar la zona de golpeo.
Elegimos un trozo de cuero que teníamos de un antiguo sofá. Tras discutir el grosor del
acolchado me salí con la mía y no ha sido mucho, más bien nada. Prefiero que sea dura,
aunque golpeemos más suave ya que la idea es endurecer pero sobre todo corregir la forma
de golpear y eso no se consigue fácilmente si la superficie es blanda ya que creo que
perdonaría muchos errores.

Creo que no nos ha salido muy mal para ser la versión beta del proyecto Makiwara. Estoy
deseando poder usarla ya cargada con el lastre y ver que tal es el resultado final. Se me
olvidaba entre el mástil y la zona de anclaje del mismo hemos colocado una pequeña cuña
de madera que reduce las vibraciones que pueda recibir el organismo debido a la tercera ley
de Newton.
Me gustaría agradecer a Juan , Víctor, José Luis y otros muchos que nos han ayudado en
esto colgando fotos, dando ideas, respondiendo dudas o calculando el desplazamiento que
tendrá para colocar el lastre correcto.

Espero que este post sirva de ayuda para quien se aventure a construirse por si mismo su
makiwara, ya que los precios de las comerciales son totalmente desorbitados.

Saludos.

How to Make a Punching Bag


Two Methods:Using PVC PipeUsing a Concrete BaseCommunity Q&A

Punching bags are used to increase strength and stamina in athletes. They are used by
people who practice martial arts or boxing to perfect their technique. However, punching
bags can be very expensive, and this can be problematic for someone training on a budget.
A cost-effective solution to this problem is to make your own punching bag.

Method 1

Using PVC Pipe

1.
1

Take a PVC pipe and cut it so that it’s 3 feet in length. Measure the pipe and
draw a line where you will cut using a maker. Use a PVC pipe cutter or a hacksaw
to cut the PVC pipe.[1]

2.
2

Drill two holes at each end of the PVC pipe. One set of holes will be used to
attach the base. The other set of holes will be used to hang the bag.

3.
3

Create your base. Trace the outline of where you will be cutting with a compass.
You can also trace the bottom of a 5-gallon bucket. Use a saw to cut a 10” diameter
circle out of the plywood. Then draw a 4-inch diameter circle and cut that out of the
plywood.

4.
4

Attach the 4-inch circular piece of plywood to the PVC pipe. Place the plywood
inside of the PVC pipe so that it’s even with the holes you drilled. Drill screws
through these holes to secure the plywood to PVC pipe.

5.
5

Attach the 10-inch piece of plywood to the PVC pipe. Place the 10-inch piece on
the bottom of the pipe where the 4-inch piece is. Drill screws through the 10-inch
and 4-inch pieces of plywood so that they are connected.

6.
6

Use a box cutter to bring the carpet to size. You want the carpet to roughly match
the size of the PVC pipe. You want to leave about four inches of pipe uncovered at
the top of the punching bag so that the holes you drilled are exposed.

7.
7

Wrap the carpet padding around the PVC pipe. Start by taping one edge of the
carpet padding to the pipe and then slowly roll the pipe until the carpet padding is
completely wrapped around the pipe. Once all of the carpet padding is on the pipe,
tape down the loose edge of the carpet using duct tape.

o Make sure you wrap the pipe as tightly as possible as you want the bag to be
solid when you punch it.
8.
8

Cover the carpet padding in duct tape. Take the roll of duct tape and attach a
piece of tape to the carpet closest to the base. Start rolling the tape around the carpet
padding on the PVC pipe. Make sure you overlap as you tape so that you have very
tight layers. You will cover every bit of exposed carpet padding that runs the length
of the pipe with tape.

o Apply as much tape as you can to the top of the carpet, but don’t worry
about completely covering it.
9.
9

Run a piece of rope through the two exposed holes on top of the PVC pipe.
Make sure both ends of the rope are equal in length and then tie them together.

10.
10

Hang the bag. Find out where you want to hang the bag. If you are hanging the bag
from the ceiling, be sure to hang it from a stud so that the bag does not fall and
injure you.

Method 2

Using a Concrete Base

1.
1

Combine three 2 in. x 4 in. 8 in. boards. These boards will make up the post to the
punching bag. To create the shape you need, place two boards on top of each other
and then place the remaining board along their 2-inch sides. Glue the boards
together using wood glue. Make sure you run the glue along the lengths of the
boards. Once they are glued, screw them together.[2]

2.
2

Drive large nails into each board. You want them to stick out so that they can help
the board stay in the concrete mix.

3.
3

Attach a square piece of plywood to the boards. Nail the plywood into the bottom
of the boards. The plywood needs to be big enough to support the three boards
while standing...

4.
4

Let the post set overnight. You want the glue to dry completely before moving on
to the next steps.

5.
5

Stack two tires on top of each other. Make sure they are evenly stacked. The tires
will form your base.

6.
6

Dump the concrete mix into a wheelbarrow. Use four bags of concrete so that
you have enough to fill the inside of the tires. Place the bag of concrete inside of the
wheelbarrow towards one end. Cut the bag open using a hoe. Once it’s open, pour
out the mix and remove the bag.[3]

o A wheelbarrow allows you to mix the concrete easily.


o You can use a shovel or spade instead of the hoe.
7.
7

Add water to the concrete. With the concrete on one side of the wheelbarrow, pour
the required amount of water into the other side. To find the required amount of
water, read the bag of the concrete mix. Adding more than the required amount can
render the mix ineffective.

o Make sure to keep about 4 cups of water nearby in case you need to add
more to the mix.
8.
8

Slowly mix the concrete. Using a hoe, gradually mix small amounts of the concrete
into the water. Keep mixing until the mix is completely wet. As you mix the
concrete, make a pile of wet mix on one side of the wheelbarrow.

9.
9

Add the concrete mix to the tires. Place the post inside of the tires and then fill the
tires completely with concrete, making sure there are no empty spaces left inside.
While the concrete is still wet, make sure that the post is leveled and centered in the
tires. Smooth the top of the concrete.

o Make sure you wear gloves and safety goggles when pouring and
maneuvering the concrete. The concrete mix can cause serious burns.
10.
10

Let the stand set for two days so that the concrete mix can dry. If you move on
to the next steps and the concrete is still dry, then the post will be uneven. Once the
mix is dry, the base will become very heavy. To maneuver the stand, angle the post
down and roll it using the tires.

11.
11

Cut an old futon mattress in half. The futon mattress will be used for the padding
of the punching bag. Lay the post down. Attach one end of the cut mattress to the
post by using duct tape. Wrap the remaining part of the mattress until it is
completely around the post. Tape the loose end of the mattress down with duct tape.
Make sure the mattress is wrapped tight so that the punching bag has structure.

o Check with your local classifieds or online postings to find a futon mattress
if you do not want to purchase a new one.
12.
12

Cover the mattress with duct tape. Now that the mattress is secured to the post,
wrap the exposed area with duct tape. Make sure you overlap as you tape so that
you have very tight layers. You will cover every bit of exposed mattress that runs
the length of the post. This will completely secure the mattress and make it suitable
for punching.

13.
13

Place a foam pad under the tires. The pad will help keep the bag quiet when you
hit it.

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