THE

BARB ERS ’
M ANUAL .

A
'

T re a tis e on t he Art of B a r be r i n g ,

—BY

L How a r d J
. on e s .

C o p y ri g h t , 1 8 98 , b y L H o wfin
. d J o n e s, F i nd l ay O h i o
, .

G o s p el W a y a nd o
F o d P ri n t , M c C o mb , O h io .

L “
 PREFACE .

TH E au h or
t of t his w o rk b el i ev es th a t t he T ens o
“T6 ”
ar t of D enti st ry a nd S y
“

u rg e r ,

sh o u l d not be w i tho u t an e e men tl a ry th ou g h s y s tem

tic t reatis e on t he p ri ncip les o f g o o rl w o rk ma ns hip .

He b el i e v es th a t t he t ru e u s efu l ness o f su ch a
t reatis e is a
m a re n t . Tha t th o s e w ho en
g ag e i n t he

p ro fessio n w i ll re adi l y re c o g niz e its v al u e ,

an d that
th os e w ho are s erv i ng an app re nti ceship ,
or w ho

c o nt em p l a te p repa ri ng th e msel v es fo r t he p ractic e

o f t he t o n s o ria l p ro fessi o n sh o u l d ,
n ot be w i th o u t

this ,
t he o nl
y t reatis e of i ts ki nd in e x ist en c e .

He b el i ev es a s y st em atic t rea tis e on t he t on s o ria l

a t t o be q u i t e as
'
u s efu l an d d esi ra b le as su ch
“ a
 P RE F ACE

w o rk c o u ld be i n a n y o th er d ep a r t m en t of sci en c e .

”
He b el i ev es th at m an y w ho e n g age in, as w el l as

th o se w ho con em t p l at e p rep ar ati on for the p r actic e

of the t on s o ri al art , wil l p rofi t by t rai n i n g the m i nd
in t he fu n d am en ta l p r i n ci p l es w hich wi ll n o t o nl y
si m p l i fy t he w or k of t he b a r b er ,
bu t at t he s am e
ti m e sec u re g r eat er p rofi ci en cy i n the art, a n d th er eby
e e l vate and dign ify t he p ro fessi on .

He b el i ev es that t he mi nd as w el l as the ha n d s
o f the a pp r en tic e sh o u l d be t r ai n ed i n t he sci en c e o f
b ar b er i n g .

He b el i ev es that the t r ai n i n g w hich the a

pp ren

tic e rece v es i w hile s er vi n g his a pp r en tic eshi p on ly ,

a pp l i es i n a g ener a l w ay to t he u se a n d p r ep a r ati on
of t ool s , and the mec ha n ica l r u d i m en ts of t he art ,

bu t r ar el y i n v ol v es i n st r u cti on s i n th o s e fu n da men tal

p r i n ci p l es w hich c all for th and d ev el o p his a r tistic
i n sti n ct . H en c e m a n y b arb ers
, , w ho, al th o u gh th ey
h av e se r v ed an a pp r en tic eshi p ,
e n gage i n the t en

sori al p ro fes si on al l th ei r l i v es w ith o u t evi n ci n g a n y

 PR E F ACE

cre -
litable d eg ree o f s k i l l or m echa n i ca l abi l ity .

Thi s is b eca u se onl y th ei r h a n d s h av e b een t r ai n ed

to do a c ert ai n thi n g i n a c er t ai n w ay, thei r m i n d s
h av i n g n ev er b een d isci p l in
ed in th o s e fu n da menta l
p r i n ci p l es w hic h d ev elo p the p ec u l ia r faci l iti es of

t ast e so es e s n tia l i n all t r u e a r tists a n d ,

w hi ch are in
a g r eat m eas u r e t he c ro w n i n g gl or y o f all a ec om
p lished bar b er s .

I t is not t o p r es en t a n y new id ea o r i nno vati on i n

t he art o f bar b er i n g that ,
t he a u th o r has p r ep a r ed
this Manu al , _
biit t o giv e a co n cis e c on d en sati on o f
ce r tai n r u l es a n d s u ggesti on s w hich , w h en p erm a
nent ly fi x ed i n the m i nd ,
w i ll i n s u re g r eat er s k i l l
and a r ti stic ab i l ity i n w or k m a n shi p .

If , th er efor e, thi s w or k shal l m eet w ith t he ao

cep t ance w hich t he i m p o rta n c e o f .

t he s u bj ect de

man d s , the a u t hor w i ll feel that he has no t w r itt en

in v ai n .
 C ON T EN T S .

C H A P T ER I . I nt ro d u cti on .

H o n i ng and Stroppi ng .

P repa ri ng the B ea rd .

. Hai 1
’
"
-

cu t ti n g .
 C H AP T E R I .

I N TR ODU C TI ON .

A B a r b er is one e n gag ed i n t he art or b u si n ess o f

shavi ng a n d t ri mm i n g t he b eard a n d c u t t i ng a n d
,

t ri m m i n g the hai r .

A T on s o ria l A r tist is o ne s k i l l ed i n t he a r t o f
sh avi ng and t rini ih ing the b ea r d and c u tti n g a n d
,

t ri m m i n g t he hai r .

It wil l be s een from t he ab o v e d efin iti o ns th at the

disti ncti on b et w een a b a rb er a n d a t on s o ri a l a rtist

is on e o f s k i l l r ath er th a n p ro fessi o n ; it b ei ng
,
one

thi ng t o be en gag ed i n t he b u si n ess of b a r b er i n g ,

an d

q u ite a n oth er thi n g t o be s k i ll ed i n t he art o

f bar

b er i n g .
,

Many men ca ll th ems el v es fi rst c l ass b arb er s

,
-

,
bu t
 r B A R B ER S ’

fe w of th em can b o ast of th ei r ski l l i n w o rk m a n ship .

T he se -

ca l l ed fi rst -

c lass b a rb er d ep en ds chi efly

,

u p o n app ea ra n c e and c o u rt esy t o p l eas e his c u st om

ers, w hi l e t he a cc o mp l ish ed wor k m a n c om b i nes h o th
app ea ra n c e and c ou rt es y w i th ski l l an d abi l i ty .

Th u s di sti ng u ish ed ,
let us i n q u i re i n t o t he m erits
of wo r k m ansh ip . L et us i n q u i re i n t o w hat c o nsti
t u t es sk i ll ed w o rk m a n shi p , or ho w on e m ay b ec om e
ski ll ed i n t he a r t of b a rb eri ng .

In c o n t emp l ati ng p repa rati o n for t he p racti c e o f

this p ro fessi o n or ,
e v en en gagi ng in b u si n ess as a
w or km an ,
t he fi rst th i ng t o be tak en i nt o c o nsid e ra
ti o n is t he n at u ra l ad apta b i l ity of the i nd ivi d u a l t o
this p ec u l i a r art .

S o me m en h a v e g reat er n at u ra l en d o w ment s in

c e rtai n l i nes tha n in o th ers .

'

As s om e m en a re n at u ra l o rat o rs s om e ,
are n at u ra l
l ead ers ,
an d s o m e h a v e n at u ra l gi fts w hi ch ex cit e the
won d er of al l m a n k i n d it ,
wou l d be re as o n a b l e t o
s u pp o s e that s om e w o u l d ha v e a n at u r a l gift in t he ar t
 M A N U AL . 8

of b a rb eri ng . Bu t to m ak e a s u cc ess o f his t alen ts ,

e v e ry m an m u st fi nd h is n at u ra l sph ere si n c e i t ,

wou l d be id l e t o thi n k of m ak i ng a g ra cefu l d a n c e r

ou t o f a ro u gh an d c l u msy p l o u gh m a n ,
or an e x p ert
p en ma n ou t of a m an b ett er ad apt ed by nat u r e t o
ca rry i ng t he h o d .

It fo ll o w s ,
th eref ore th at ,
in ch oo si ng a t rad e or

p ro fessi o n ,
re ga rd sh o u l d be had fo r n a t u ra l ad ap ta
bili ty .

I t is n ot eno u gh t o ad mi re t he ar t, or tak e a fa n c y
to t he p ro fessi on
, or t o en D
g a g
C)
e i n t he b u si ness as a
m ea ns of e as y l i v el ih oo d .

If a
‘

m a n si mp l y foll o ws a m o rbid i n c l i n a t i o n to

st rik e so methi ng e as y it is
,
not at a l l l ik el y that he

w il l e ve r b e c o me fa mo u s as an ac co mp lish ed wor k
m an .
H is high est a m b iti o n w ll i be to g et t he p ric e
of t he sh a v e or h ai r cu t . He w i l l thi nk l it t le o f t he

s atis fac ti o n he gi v es ,
or fa i l s t o gi v e his c u st o me r
, ,
or

t he q u a l it y or app ea ra nc e of t he w o rk he has a
tt em p t
ed to exe u e c t .
9 B AR B E R S ’

S u ch men ne er v m ak e g oo d w or k m en . In fact ,

th ey v
ne er s eem t o g rasp any m o re th a n t he fo rma l

ru d i m en ts o f the a rt . Th ey n e er v t ry t o i m p rov e
th ei r s k i ll ,
bu t p lo d a lo ng as if th ere w ere n o th i ng
m o re t o l ea rn .

O n t he c on t ra ry ,
t o b ec om e a n acc om p l ish ed w or k
m an , t he on e g reat th o u ght sh o u l d c en t er a ro u n d the

id ea of id ea l w o rk m a ns hip .

J u st as t he edi fi c e is fo rm ed in the m i nd of t he

a rch it ect b efo re he d ra w s his p l a ns ,

or t he i m ag e i
fo rm ed i n t he m in d of the pai n t er b efo re he p o rt rays
it u p o n the ca n v a s s o ,
t he s lt
re u of his t o ns o ri a l sk i l l
sh o u l d be fi x ed i n t he m i n d of t he b a rb er b efo re he

b eg i ns t o o p erat e u p o n his s u bj ect . I t is t he a b i li t y

t o fo rm this id ea l of the re u s lt of h is ski ll th at ,
d is

t in g u ishes t he acc om p l ish ed w o rk m an fro m t he o rdi

n arv ba rb er .

H ow o ft en we see b a rb ers ,
w h en th ey b egi n t o cu t

a h ead of hai r ,
w ha ck an d w h ack ,
and c l ip a nd c lip ;
un ti l th ey ru n o u t of h ai r ,
and are fo rc ed t o q u it t he
 MA N U AL . 10

j ob , w ith o u t l eavi ng the c u st om er a pp ea ri n g t o a n y

b ett er adva ntag e ,
bu t, i f a nythi ng loo k i ng
, w or e s on
acc o u nt of th ei r un sk i l l fu l w or k m a n shi p "
S u ch ba rb ers ,
w h en th ey b egi n a j o b of h ai r cu t

ti ng hav e no i d ea how i t sh o u l d app ea r w h en fi nish ed

, .

A b o u t a ll th ey thi n k of is ho w q u ick th ey can “

sh oo t
h im o u t, c iv e
re e t he p ric e an d catch a no th er vi cti m .

I t is e vid en t that s u ch ba rb ers h av e h ad onl y th ei r

h a nds t rai ned i n t he r ath er a u t om atic u se of t he

c om b an d sh ea rs th ei r a r tistic fac u l ti es i f a n y th ey
, ,

ha v e h avi ng, n e er v b een d ev elo p ed or t rai ned i n t he

art o f ba rb eri ng .

S u ch m ech a nics r a rel y ev er b ec o m e a rtisti c i n this

l i ne , e v en th o u gh th ey w or k at t he t rad e a ll th ei r
l i v es .

O n t he o th er h a n d , t he acc om p l i sh ed w o rk m a n ,

t he m om en t he s eats a c u st om er an d asc ertai ns h is

d esi re fo rm s ,
in h is ow n m i n d a n id ea of t he a rtisti c
shap e i n w hich his w o rk sh o u l d app ea r w h en fi n ish ed ,

a nd p ro c eeds t o ca rry that id ea i n t o ex ec u ti on . He

11 B AR BE R s

th u s d em o nst rat es th a t his m i nd as w ell

‘
his ha nds as
h as b een t rai ned i n the a rt of b a rb eri ng .

T he a b i l i ty t o fo r m this i d ea is t he high est evid enc e

of n a t u ra l ad aptabi l i ty .

Bu t th ere are o th er e v id en c es of n at u ra l a d apta

bil ity that sho u l d be tak en i nt o c o nsid erati o n . I t is
high l y ess en tia l that a man s ph y si ca l m ak eu p be
’

s u ite d t o t he p ractic e o f t he t o ns o ria l p ro fessi o n .

Men of c o a rs e ph y siq u e d o ,
n ot , as a g ene ra l l
r u e,

m ak e ski ll ed wor k men ; t ru e t o th ei r ph y sica l m ak e

u
p ,
th ey han d l e a r a zo r v er y m u ch as t he w o o d m a n

h a nd l es his ax e, o r t he b u tch er ha nd l es his k ni fe

fro m t he m u sc l e .

S u ch m en are n ot l i k el y t o acq u i re that d eft ness

of t o u ch s o ess entia l t o ski l l in barberm g .

T he p ro fessi o n of t he b a rb er is a m o st d el icat e one .

N o l a nc et sh o u l d be k eener, no st ro k e m o re u n err n i g .

T o d eftl y re mov e the b ea rd , on e m u st p o ss ess a l ight

an d d el i cat e ha nd .
‘

So ,
if p o ss ess ed of a g reat ha nd ,

it is r eas o na b l y c ertai n that y o u r p hysica l m ak eu p is

 MA N UA L . 12

b est s u it ed t o s om e o th er S ph ere .

St ead y a n d sensi t iv e n erv es

g
are an i n disp en sab l e
p ie -
re
q u isit e t o g oo d wo r k m a n ship . This is esp eci a l l y
t ru e i n t he art of sh a v i ng . N ei th er a t rem b l i n g ha nd
n or a ha nd d u l l t o t he l igh t es t p erc epti b l e t o u ch ca n ,

be t ru st e d t o w i el d t he g l ist eni ng raz o r w ith e rr o rl ess

d ex t erity .
T he n erv es sh o u l d be s o k een l y s ensi tiv e t o t he

l ight est t o u c h that ,

t he b a rb er can a l w ays t el l j u st
how his ra zo r is w o rki ng , w i th o u t m ak i ng u se of s u ch
i n q u i ri e s as Do es t he r az o r p u l l or Is t he r az o r
c u tti ng a l l r i gh t ? ” and t he l ik e .

Of c o u rs e th is p ec u l ia r q u a l ity
,
of n er v es m u st be

acq u i red th ro u gh p ractic e an d t rai n i ng ,

bu t i t m ay be
w el l t o u n d ersta n d fro m t he b egi n ni ng that th ey are
,

a n i ndisp ensab l e p rereq u i sit e t o sk i ll fu l w o rk m a n

shi p . In s om e res
p ect s, a st eady n er ev is n at u ral ,

th o u gh it m u st be t rai n ed 1 11 o rd er t o b ri ng its u ti li ty
i nt o activ i ty as an e e l m en t of ski ll .

T he st ead a n d s en sitiv e n erv e is . ossesse di th o u g h

 13 BAR BE R S
’

no t a l w ays u n d er st oo d by a gr eat m a n y ba r b er s
,
.

Ma n y o f th e m hav e a q u i et n er v e a n d st eady ha n d ,

acq u i red th ey k no w n o t
,
how , bu t e x isti n g n ev er ,

t heless .

e In s om e un c o nsci o u s w ay th ey fa ll i n t o t he h abit
of shavi n g w ith w h at is ca ll ed a l ight ha n d s u a ll y
“
,
u

acc om p a ni ed w ith a q u i et st eady

,
ner ve. E vi d en t l y

th ey hav e acq u i re d t o s o m e d eg ree t he art of shav i ng .

Bu t that it is acq u i red in an u nc on sci o u s w ay, is

m a n ifest l y c ertai n i n e v e ry cas e w h er e its acq u isi
ti o n ca nno t be ex p l ai n ed fro m a sci enti fi c p o i n t of

F or i n sta nc e s om e ba rb ers a l th o u gh th ey
, ,
are fa r

a b o v e the av erage in t on s o ria l ski ll ca nno t giv e a

,

si n g l e id ea of t he l m ents
e e of sci enc e whi ch en e t r i nt o
t he art of b a r b eri n g . I n o th er w o rds , th ey a re n ot

at a ll c o nv ersa nt on the art of ba r b eri ng ,

or t he con

stit u ent capa b i l iti es of a n acc om p l ish ed w o rk m a n .

This d em o nst rat es two thi ngs . F i rst , th at s om e

men are en d o w ed w ith m or e o r l ess t on s or i a l g en i u s ,
15 B AR B ER S ’

bu t sk i ll d o es n o t a l w ays i mp l y S p eed . S om e o f t he

fast est w o rk m en m ay be c l ass ed a m o ng t he m o st ih

c om p et en t a rtist s ,
w hi l e s o me of t he s lo west ba rb ers
m ay be c l ass ed am o ng the m o st s k i l l fu l wor k m en .

O ne of t he g reat est m istak es a y o u ng ba rb er ca n

m a k e is t he e a rly attem pt t o acq u i re x t ra or di n a ry
e

sp eed .

U nfo rt u natel v ,
a g reat m a ny ba r b ers thi n k that
g oo d wor k m a nship m ea ns t he abi l ity t o sh a v e a m an

i n t he spac e of t wo or th ree m i nu t es . This is n ot

t ru e . Sh av i ng an d t ri m m i n g t he heard is a l u x u ry ,

r ath er tha n a ne e c ssit y ,

or if it c o u l d be ca ll ed a
ne e c ssit y at a ll it is ,
s u ch o nl y in so far as it is me c es

sa ry t o satis fy t he d esi re for this p ec u l i a r s or t of

l u x u ry . It foll o w s , th e refo re that ,

men h a v e th ei r
b ea rd sh a v ed ,
an d th ei r hai r an d w hisk ers t ri m m ed ,

to i mp ro v e th ei r app ea ra n c e ,
r ath er tha n from an
y
abs ol u te ne e c ssity
Goo d w or k m a nship th erefo re c o nsists in the abi l ity
, ,

t o ex ec u te a sha v e or h ai r or , w his k er t ri m ,
in s u ch
 MA N U A L . 16

a m a nn er as w i ll l eav e the s u bj ect ap p ea r i n g t o the

b est adva n tag e .

I t is t o t he attai n m en t o f this abi l i ty that t he

eff ro ts of t he w o rk m a n sh o u l d be di r ect ed . Al l
ne e c ssa ry s p eed will d ev elo p as the wo rk m a n be

c o m es m or e a n d m or e acc om p l ish ed .

I n sha v i ng ,
the fin es t w or k m en ra rel y att ai n a n
av erag e s p eed o f ten m i n u t es t o the shav e th o u gh ,
as

a t est o f s p eed th ey c o u l d shav e a m a n i n a m u ch

,

sh or t er ti m e
In hai r c u tti n g t w en ty t o t w en ty
,
-
fi ve m i n u t es is
ab o u t t he a v er ag e ti m e for s k i ll fu l w or k m en , th o u gh ,

as i n t he cas e of shavi n g a n or d i n a r y hai r

, cu t cou l d
be e x ec u t ed i n a m u ch sh or t er ti m e .

In b o th hai r c u tti n g a n d shavi ng it is ,

t he q u a l ity
of the w o r k d o ne and ,
n ot the s p eed w ith w hi ch it is
d on e that is
,
t he t r u e c r it er i on o f g oo d wor k m a n shi p .
 C H AP T E R I I .

H ON I N G AN D S TR O PP I N G

W e w i ll now tak e u t he s ev era l pa rts of t he t e n

p

sori al a rt and t reat th em mo re m i n u t el y .

I n p repa ri ng for the p ractic e of t he b a rb e r s ’

p ro

fession, one of t he fi rs t thi n gs t he app ren tic e i s re

q u i red t o l ea rn is ho w t o h o ne a raz o r . This is t he

m o st i m p o rta nt b ra n ch o f the t o n s o ri a l art . N o bar

ber can b ec o m e an acc om p l ish ed wo r k m an w i th o u t
h avi ng m ast e r ed t he art of ho n i ng .
_
E v ery b a rb e r
u nd e rstands how t o o p erat e on t he h o ne , yet a fe w

s u ggesti o n s w il l en ab l e t he a v e rage b a rb er t o u n d er
sta n d that h o ni ng a raz o r is a m att er of science rath e r
tha n a m att er of fo r m . To u n d ersta nd ho w t o h o ne
a r a z o r th erefo re is t o
, ,
m ast er t he g reat est p ro b l em
p ertai ni ng t o the t o ns o ria l p ro fessi on .
 MA NU A L . 18

I n l ea rni ng this art , t he fi rst a n d m o st ss en ti a l

e

thi ng t o b egi n w ith is a g oo d h o ne . t at c on sti

t u t ee a g o o d h o n e is n o t an e asy q u esti on to a ns w er .

A fi ne ,
s moo th sh a p g rai ned
,
r -

,
fast c u tti ng h o ne has ,

com e t o be t he a u th o r s fa vo rit e
’
.

H o w m u ch a nd how o ft en a ra zo r sh o u l d be h o n ed ,

d e p ends u p o n t he n at u re of the h on e ,
w h eth er i t is
fast or s lo w — an d the t em p e r i n t he r az or , w h e th er

h ard or s o ft .

W hi l e s om e r az o rs re q u i re m o re h o n i ng th a n
o th ers g reat ca re sh ou l d
,
be tak en n ot t o h o ne t o o
m u ch T oo m u clf ”
honing p r o d u c es w hat is ca ll ed a
‘

w i ry edg e .

A w i ry e dg e m ay be a v o id ed b y ca refu ll y t es ti ng
t he e dge of the r az o r w h i l e h o n i ng it ,
an d b y l ea rni n g
t o c eas e h o ni ng the m om en t the d esi r ed edg e is oh

tai ned .

T he u s u a l m eth o d o f t esti ng t he dge of a

e ra zor
w hi l e h o n i ng it m ay be re s o rte d t o a n d m u st
, be re

s o rt ed t o at freq u en t i nt erv a l s ,
for t he p u rp o s e of
19 B AR B E R S ’

asc er tai ni ng w h en t he r a zo r is s u ffi ci en t l y h on ed .

In h o ni ng r a zo rs ,
the m o st i m p or ta n t thi n g t o be
th o ro u gh ly u n d erst oo d is ,
ho w to t el l w h en a ra zo r i s
h on ed eno u gh ; and t he n ex t m o st i m p o rtan t thi n g t o
l e a rn is t o c eas e h on i n g w h en the r az or i s h on ed
en u o gh . W ith th es e two thi ngs w el l un d erst oo d a n d
p u t i nt o p ractic e ,
the y o u n g est ba rb er sh o u l d hav e
l ittl e t ro u b l e i n p rep a ri ng his r a zo rs .

I n the s el ecti o n of bones h o wev er it m ight be , ,

well

t o o b s er v e that t he b est re u s l ts m ay be o btai n ed from

th o s e c l ass e d as m ed i u m fast . T he e x t ra c o a rs e
g rai ned h on e giv es t oo ro u gh a n edg e t o t he razor ;
t he e xt a
r fi ne -

g r ai n ed h on e gi v es t oo s moo th an e dg e .

F or the pu rp os e of th is se e l cti on ,
bones m a y be
c l ass ed as ex t ra fast fast m ed i u m , ,
fast , m edi u m fi ne,

fi ne an d e x t ra fi ne .

N u m erica ll y this c l assi fi cati on w ou l d ru n as fol

lo w s

Cl ass 1 — E x t r a fast
.
(or c o a r s e g r ai n ) .

C lass 2 .
—F ast (or c o a r s e g rai n ) .
 M A N UA L . 20

C l ass 3 .
— Me di u m fast (o r c o a rs e g ra m ) .

Cl ass 4 .
—Me d i u m fi ne g rai n ed .

Cl ass 5 . F i ne g rai ned .

Cl ass 6 .
— E x t ra fi ne g ra in ed .

Cl ass es th ree and fo u r g enera l ly gi v e the b est

su lts . Th ey g i v e the k eenest and m o st l asti ng edg e .

Cl ass t wo gi ves m o st t oo ro u gh an e dge for fi ne,

s moo th sh a v i ng , wh ile c l ass one is o nl y fi t for g r i ndi ng

thi c k h eavy ra zo rs
, ,
or fo r g ri ndi ng n ick s ou t of

r a zo rs and the l ik e .

Cl ass fi v e w i l l giv e an e x c el l en t e dg e ,
bu t it wil l

n o t h o ld u
p lon g i n h eavy b ea rd .

Cl ass si x giv es t oo s m oo th an e dg e for any p ra cti

ca l p u rp o s e .

R a zo rs w i l l re q u i re m o re or l ess h o n i ng acc o rdi ng ,

to t he c l ass of h on e u s ed — w h e th er fast or fi ne . A
fas t h o ne w i l l no t re q u i re as m u ch ho ni ng t o sha rp en
a ra zo r as a fi ne g rai n ed h o ne . H en c e, t he ba rb er
m u st n o t e ca refu ll y t he n at u re of h is bon e as a cu t

t er, i n or d er that he m ay av o i d the m ista k e of h on i n g

 21 B A RB E R S
’
’

t o o m u ch or t oo l o n g . T he h ab i t of honing too mu ch

or lo ng is easi l y acq u i red ,

bu t h ard to ov er c o me .

A ba rb er w i ll tak e a n o ti o n t o gi v e his a zo rs a
r

g oo d h o ni ng ; he thi nks he w i l l t ak e p lenty o f ti m e

an d g et th em in g oo d shap e ; s o he p ro c eeds t o ca rr y
that no ti o n i nt o ex ec u ti o n . He g i v es his ra zo r a few

st ro k es ac ro ss t he ho n e, a nd th en t es ts t he e dg e . He

fi nds i t s u ffi ci en t l y sha rp bu t is ,
not s atis fi ed b eca u s e,

he has re s ol v ed t o gi v e t h em a th o ro u gh h o ni n g . He

thi n k s that a few mo re st ro k es ac ro ss t he h o ne w i ll

m ak e it a l itt l e sh a rp er s o he p ro c eeds t o h on e a l itt l e

,

m o re . Agai n he t ests t he e d g e, and a l th o u gh sa t is

fi ed th at t he raz or is su ffi ci en t l y h o ned it s eem s th at
,

he c ann o t re sis t the t em ptati o n t o gi v e it a few m o re

fi nishi ng t ou ch es . This is h is fi rst g re at mist ak e .

W h en he st ro ps his raz o r and p u ts i t i n t o h ea v y

b ea rd ,
he fi nd s that it d o es n o t cu t e asy ; h is ra zor
s eems t o h ang an d p u ll . Th en he im agi nes th at
t h e re is s om ethi ng w ro n g w ith t he h o ne or ,
t he s tro p ,

or that t he c u st o mer is ha rd t o sh a v e . He i s a nnoy

ed ,
v ex ed ,
an d freq u en t l y re s o rts t o t he st rep ; sp ends
 BA RBE R S
’
23

w hic h l itt l e su cce ss ca n be had i n high -

c l ass W ork

m a n ship . I t is as i m p or ta n t th er efor e tha t a ba r b er

, ,

sh ou l d u se g oo d st r ep s as i t is th at
,
he sh ou l d u se

g oo d r a zo rs or a g oo d h on e .

A ba r b er m ay p o ss ess a n e x c ell en t set o f g oo d

r a zor s a l s o a g oo d h on e a n d s u p eri or ski l l i n the a r t
, ,

o f h on i ng , yet if he has no t g o t a g oo d set o f st ro p s ,

he w i l l no t be ab l e t o p u t that k een and d el icat e edg e

on a r a zor w hi ch g oo d w or k m a n shi p r equ ir es .

W hat c on stit u t es a g oo d st ro p IS a q u esti on easi l y

s ett l ed . E v er y b a rb er s s u pp l y h o u s e i n
’
the c o u n t ry
ca rri es a l i n e o f g oo d fir st c l ass st ro p s for
, , the u se of
the t on s or ia l p ro fessi on . T he a u th o r s fav or it e
’
set of

stro p s i s the R u ssia n l eath er a n d the h eavy l i n en

h o se . Th er e are o th er st ro p s w h ich are j st as g oo
u d ,

bu t d o no t w ast e yo u r ti m e w ith ch ea p or h om e

m ad e st ro p s . Bu y t he b est p rep a r ed a n d r eady fo r

u se, an d you will sav e b o th ti m e a n d l ab o r as , well

as m on ey .

Havi n g b ou ght t he s t ro p s , the n ex t thi n g t o l earn

 MA N U AL . 24

is how t o u se th em . T he m eth o d o f st ro pp i n g m o st
c om mon a mon g b a r b ers is i n eed d m o st fa u l ty
,
. S om e
ba r b ers p l ay u p o n t he st ro p w ith th ei r ra zo rs as th ey
w ou l d u p on a b a nj o . Th ey s eem t o for g et t he

m ech a n ica l effe ct w hich t he u se of t he st ro p is de

sig ned t o giv e — a k een e dg e . Th ey s eem ed t o be

ch a rm ed w ith the n o is e th ey m a k e on t he st ro p ,

r ath er th a n by t he re u s l ts th ey o btai n . T he m or e
p l easi ng th ei r st ro ppi ng s o u n ds t o the car, t he b ett er
th ey are satis fi ed w i th t he st ro ppi ng O p er ati on . T he

effe ct of this m eth o d of st re

pp i n g is t w o fol d
-
. F i r st ,

n i n ety p er c en t . of t he accid en ts att en da n t u p o n t he

st ro pp i n g of ra zo rs s lt
re u fro m this m eth o d of st ro p
pi n g . S ec on d ,
Th o s e w ho p ers i st i n this m eth o d of

st ro ppi ng fin d th ei r st re ps a l l hack ed a n d n ic k cd s o
,
-

that th ey fin d i t n ec essa ry t o p ro c u re n ew st ro p s at
fr eq u en t i n t er va l s . B esid es this i t is ,
ne x t t o i mp os
si bl e t o p u t a k een and l asti ng e dge u p on t he r a zor
by th is m eth o d of st ro ppi ng .

A n o th er m o st g ri ev o u s err r o a m on g b a r b er s is the
25 B A RB E R S ’

h abit o f r i d i n g the st r ep . This is t he cas e w ith

th es e ba r b ers w ho u se ch eap or h em e m ad e st rep s

-

T hey fin d it di ffi c u l t to o bt ai n t he d esi red edg e u p o n

th ei r r a zo rs . Th ey sp en d a g reat d ea l o f ti m e a n d
e n er gy a n d
,
u se m ore st r ength an d m u sc l e th a n sk i ll ,

i n st ro pp i n g th ei r raz o rs . Th ey fo rg et — if th ey ev er
k n ew — th at t he e d g e of the r a zo r is e x t r em el y d el i
cat e ,
and th at t he ha m mer a n d tong m eth o d of

st ro pp i ng is no t the most l i k el y t o e ith er i m p ro v e i t

or p r es er v e its k een c u tti ng q u a l iti es . No o ne w ho

st o p s to thi nk for a m om ent , can fai l t o see that t he

s l a m ba ng
-

m eth o d of st ro ppi ng i s u nn ecrssa r

y if
,

the ba r b er has a comp let e set of fi rst -

c l ass t ools . No
n eed t o w hip a r a zo r t o d eath on a g oo d s tr ep , in o r d er
t o ge t it sha rp . Bu t th ere is a no th er er ro r in st rep
p i n g v ery c ommon a m o ng ba r b ers . This i s w hat I
w ou l d ca ll wh itt l i ng t he stre
p, er p u l l in g t he

r a zo r off at t he sid e of t he stre

p ,
so as to m ak e t he

b lad e ri ng w ith e v ery strok e. This m eth o d o f st ro p

p i n g r es u l ts i n m o re c u tti ng a n d haggl i ng t he st ro ps
th an a n y o th er m eth o d em p lo y ed by ba r b er s . I t is
 MA N U A L . 26

a l s o v ery u n satis fact or y in its r es u l ts b ecau s e it t en d s

,

to p u l l the edg e off rath er tha n , p ut it on t he r a zor .

I t is n ot n ec essa r y t o p ou n d t he strep w ith the

r az o r ,
bu t si m p l y h ol d the st r ep fi rml y i n one ha n d ,

a nd t he r a zo r fi rml y i n t he oth er l ay t he fu l l l en gth

,

o f t he r az o r b l ad e ac ro ss the st re
p ,
d ra w it b r is k l y u
p
a n d d o w n t he strep . Th is w i ll gi v e t o the r a zor as

fu ll a n d p erfect a n ed g e as it is p o ssi bl e t o o b tai n .

In u si ng this m eth o d of st ro ppi n g p r ess ,

t he r azo r
fi r ml y u p on t he st rep ,
bu t do n ot r ais e i t off t he

st re
p un ti l yo u a re th ro u gh st ro ppi n g . Do n o t p u l l
y o u r ra zo r off at t he sid e o f t he stre
p ,
n or d r a w it
d iag onall v ac ro ss s
t he t rep , bu t st raigh t u
p an d d ow n
t he st re Let t he a zo r m o v e o v er a s p ac e o f ab o u t
p . r

t w el v e or si x t een i nch es d ra w ,
it s q u a rel y bac k w a r d
/
an d fo rw a rd o v er this s
p ace d ra w the t p tight l y
s re

a n d p r ess t he r a zor fi rml y u p on t he st re p w h i l e st ro p

pi n g . This is v ery si m p l e , bu t i t is t he on l y c orr ect
w ay t o st re p a ra zo r .

E x p eri en c ed ba rb ers wil l fin d this a g reat i m p ro v e

m en t o v er a n y ot her m eth o d of st ro pp i n g .
 C H AP T E R I I I .

P RE P ARI N G T H E BEARD .

W e w i ll n ow tak e s om e n o tic e of t he p repa rati o n o f

the b ea rd .

U nl ess a b a rb er is i n c l i ned to ex p eri m ent ,

he is not

l i k el y to disc ov er any ess enti a l feat u re i n the p repa

ti on of the b ea rd . Thi s is p rov en by t he ca rel ess
m a n ner i n w hich m a ny ba rb ers a
p p l y l ath er t o the

b ea rd p repa rat o r y
,
to sha v i ng it . Th ey or m a ny
, of

th em l ath er
,
t he b ea rd v er y n ea tl y and p ro fu el y
s ,

a n d t o a ll app ea r a nc e ,
y p ro p erly
v er ,
w hi l e ot hers

m e rel y d a u b or s m ea r a l itt l e lath e r e v er t he b eard ,

a n d then u nd er tak e t o s ha v e t he b ea r d o ff w ith o u t

t or t ur n i g th i c u st om er
e r —an a l mo st i m p o ssib l e thi ng
to do . I t m ak es l itt l e d i fferen c e how g oo d or sha rp
 M AN U AL . 28

t he r a zor or how s k i l l fu l the ba r b er ,

u nl ess the b ear d
is p ro p erl y p r ep a r ed , the sh av e w i ll l eav e the c u st o m
er s
’
face i rr it at ed ,
w ith a s m a r ti n g a n d b u rn i n g sen

sati on that is a n ythi n g bu t p l easa n t .

L ath er in g the b ea r d is a mon g o th er thi n gs d esign

ed te m ak e the b ear d s o ft bu t , the m er e a pp l icati on
o f l ath er w ill not o f i tsel f s o ft en the b ea r d .

To s o ften the b ea r d , a c o at o f l ath er a n d a th oro u gh

r u bbi n g is n ec essa r y . T hi s r u bbi n g w i l l ca u s e the

soap a n d l ath er t o w or k i n to the p or es o f the b ea rd

a n d m a k e it p l iab l e s o ft a n d easy t o
,
cu t

The a u th or has s een a n d ex p er i m en t ed w i th all s or ts

o f lo ti on s and r ecei p ts for m a k i n g the b ea r d s o ft ,
and

is th er efore p r ep a r ed t o say that

, ,
the m o st n on
i nj u r i o u s a n d c on v en i en t meth o d o f s o ft en i ng t he

b ea r d is the a pp l i cati on o f s o a p and l ath er fol lo w ed

,

by a th oro u gh r u bbi ng a l ight s p on gi n g a n d th en

, ,

a no th er th oro u gh a pp l icati o n o f l ath er .

I t m ight be w el l t o r em a r k h er e th at a th oro u gh
ru
”
bbi n g d o s e no t mea n a s c r u bbi n g or h ea v y
29 B A R B ER S ’

ha nd ed r u b b i n g ,
bu t, on t he c on t r ar y ,
the ru b bir g

sh o u l d be did l ight l y b risk l y a n d th o ro u gh l y D on t

’
.
,

be afraid t o s p en d fro m th ree to fi v e m i n u t es i n

r u b bi n g the l at her i nto t he b ea rd . If t he l ath e r be
c om es sti ff a n d d ry, m o ist en i t w ith a l ittl e fr esh th en ,

l ath er a n d c on ti n u e to gi v e a l ight b risk r u bbi n g

, ,
of

from th ree to fi ve m i n u t es d u r ati on . Be ca r efu l a n d

do not ru b t oo ha rd ,
or t oo h eav i l y t o ,
t he a nno ya n c e
a n d disc om for t of y o u r c u st om er .

T he sti ffer the b ea rd the more th oro u gh l y sh o u l d

be t he r u bbi ng p rocess .

If the p r ec edi ng i n st r u cti on s as to h o nes a n d

h on i n g st reps
,
an d st ro p pi n g t o geth er
, w ith . th e in

stru ct i ons and s u ggesti on s h er e giv en on the p r ep a

r ati on of t he b ea r d are st r ict l y follo w ed ,
the h eavi est
b ea r ds ca nn o t fai l t o yi el d a n d ,
cu t as so m u ch fu r .

Men w ith h eavy b ea rds wil l no lon g er a pp ea r t o be

ha rd t o sha v e ; t he p ro b l em of e asy sh av i n g w i ll be

s ol v ed a n d
, the thi r d vict o ry i n the g r eat b att l e for

the m aster y of the a r t of b a r b er i n g w i ll be w on

‘

.
 BARBE R S
’
31

Bu t it m u st be r em emb ered that thi s r esu l t c anno t

be o btai n ed w ith o u t t he u se o f p u r e s o ap . F ew bar

b er s r ea l i z e how m u ch t he ed ge o f the r a zor ,

as w el l

as t he s o ft en i n g o f the b ea r d d ep en d s u p on the

shavi n g s o a p u s ed .

T he m aj or ity o f shavi n g s o a p s c on tai n m i n u t e p a r

ticl es o f g r itty i m p u r e s u bsta n c es
,
. T he l ath er d r i es
q u i ck l y ,
an d nat u rall v l eav es a t o u gh l eath er y gr itty
, ,

sc u m . F l i nt wou l d n ot d u l l a n d t u rn the edg e o f the

r az or q u ic k er tha n this g r itty s u bsta n ce . D u ll r a zor s
t ea r a n d i rritat e the d el icat e l ace w or k o f -
t he fac e ,

a n d o p en the w ay for the p o is on c on tai n ed i n ch ea p

s o aps to en e t r the syst em .

R e c en t l y , a w r it er i n one o f the j o u rn a l s p u b l ish ed

i n t he i nt erest of ba rb er s sai d m o st t r u l y
, "
“
C h eap
s o aps are a n ab om i n ati on i n disg u is e . I n st ea d o f a

n ic e c rea m y thic k l ath er y o u r b r u sh b r i n gs u p fro m

, , ,

the cu p a thi n f a m i n g s u bstan c e

, o . You m ight as

w el l try to fly as t o soften a m a n s b ea r d
’
w ith that
k i nd o f st u ff . A soa
p that d o esn t th or ou gh l y soft en
’
 M AN U AL . 32

the b ear d w il l c au se the sha r p est raz or to pu l l . Y ou

ca n t ex p l ai n th es e m att er s t o y o u r c u st om er v ery
’

w ell , an d the c on s eq u en c e is he thi n ks you are a

bu m ba r b er and d on t k n o w how t o sh a r p en a
’

r a zor . W h at d o es he do ? He leav es y o u r sh ep ,

and , the fir st t hi n g you k n e w r ep or ts r eac h , you that

ca n t shav e j u st li ttle bit
’ “
ou a
y .

A n abs ol u t el y p u r e sha v i n g s o a p l i k e l V i ll i ams ,

’

act u a ll y p r eser v es the ed ge o f t he r a zo r by its

, p ec u

l i a r s o ften i n g effe ct u p on ev en the m est w i ry b ear d ,

w hi l e its r ich c r ea m y l ath er s oo th es an d r efresh es

"

the s en si tiv e fac e a n d acts l ik e a h ea l i n g c ool i n g

, ,

ba l m .

A p rom i n en t St L o u is ba r b er .
,
w ho has the r ep u ta
ti on o f b ei n g one o f the b est w or k m en in the W est ,

if n o t i n t he U n it ed St ates att ri b u t es m u ch
, of his
s u cc ess i n the art of shavi ng t o the o f W i ll ia m s ’
u se

shavi n g s o a p . H e savs I hav e t ri ed p retty m u ch

e v er y shavi n g soap d u r i n g my ca r eer ,
bu t ha v e v
ne er

fo u n d a n y thi n g ex c ep t \V illiams shavi n g that

’
soap

g av e g oo d satisfacti o n , e ith er t o m ys el f or to my cu s
 33 B A RB E R S ’

t o mers A l mo st a l w ays w h en t ry i n g some new s o ap

.
, ,

m y c u st om e rs w o u l d i mm ed iat el y disc o v er the di ffe r

en c e and c om p l ai n of sore fa c es itchi ng n art ing
‘

,
sn , , ,

et c ,
an d as s oo n as I b ega n u si n g l V illiams so ap ’

agai n a l l th es e c om p l ai nts s eem ed t o st e p at o nc e

,
.

I h av e g o tt en th ro u gh t ryi n g ch eap s o a p s an d ne w ,

n o thi n g can i nd u c e me t o u se a n ythi ng bu t t he O ld

R el ia b l \V ill iam s sh a v i ng s o ap I h ea rti l y
’
e — .

re c om mend it as t he p u r est and m o st s oo thi ng and

,

h ea l i ng and o nl y sh avi ng s o ap th at w i ll gi v e satis

”
,

facti o n t o ba rb ers th em s el v es and th ei r c u st om ers .

\V hat is t ru e o f t his sk i ll ed a rtist is t ru e of ev ery ,

b a rb er i n the U ni t ed Stat es ‘V il l iam s B a rb er s Bar

.
’ ’

S oap is w ith o u t e x c epti o n the b est soap m ad e for

, ,

b a rb ers u se I ts rem ark ab l e d u ra b i l it y rend ers it

’
.

reall y t he m o st ec o n om i ca l soa m ad e for a o u nd

p p ,

bar of this s o ap w i ll o u t w ea r a p o u n d of a ny o th er
so ap m ad e I t w i l l n o t w aste i n the c u p
. T he l a t h er .

is rich m i l d and v e r y l asti ng

,
.

I r ec om m en d b a rb ers t o “ illi ams

T
B a rb er s
’ ’
u se

Bar S oap , and t o av o id the ch ea p i m p u re g reen and

, ,

un es as o ned s o aps w h ich i nj u r e th ei r b u si n ess

, ,
and

i n t he end c o st m u ch mo re tha n t he b est .

 C H AP T ER I V .

S H AV IN G .

lV e ha v e c o nsid ered the p rep a rati o n of t he r az o r

a nd the b ea rd ,
and w e n ow c om e t o t he s u bj ect o f
.

sha v i ng .

By fa r t he most d el icat e p a r t of t he t on s o ria l art

is that feat u re w hich i nv ol v es t he p ractica l u se o f the

r a zo r . I t is t he p a r t w h ich m o st d i rect l y i mp ress es

its el f u p o n t he shav i n g p u b l ic ,
and is t o a l a rg e
,
ex

t en t ,
t he m eas u re of g ood w or k m a nship .

E v e r y m an j o ys a
en
go o d ,
e a sy shav e .

E v ery b a rb er sh o u l d be a m b iti o u s to acq u i re t he

abi l ity to ex ec u t e a g ood ,

easy s moo th sha v e
,
. W hat
c o nstit u t es a g oo d sh av e is not q u it e a l ways fu ll y un
 BARBER S
’

d erstood . I t is no t eno u gh t o be ab l e t o sc r a p e the

b ea r d off w ith t he r a z or . A ba r b er m u st u n d er sta n d

the cha ract e r of the b ea rd a n d the n at u r e o f ev er y
fac e . I n this h is n at u ra l ad a p tabi l ity w i ll m a n i fest
its el f . I f the w or k m a n p o ss ess es a n y o f th es e n at u r a l
t raits of u n d ersta n di n g p ec u l ia r t o t he t on s o ria l art,

it w i ll n ot tak e hi m l on g t o m ast er that fac u l ty of

d isc ernm ent w hich w il l e n ab l e hi m t o t el l or u n d er

sta nd ,
t he mom ent he s eats a c u st om er a n d a rr a ng es
t he l i ne ns , w h eth er his fac e be e x t rem el y s en sitiv e or
not , an d w hich one of t wo or m or e r a zor s wil l shav e
hi m t he e asi est .

I t is a g en er a l r u l e , w ell u n d erst oo d a m on g ba r
b ers that ,
no t w o men hav e b ea rd s ex act l y a l ik e i n
e v ery s ens e . N eith er d o we fi nd an y t wo r a zor s
w hich w i ll w or k t he sa m e i n all b ea r ds ,
nor any one

r az o r that w i ll shav e a n y a n d all b ea r ds w ith eq u al

e as e . O bs erv e th erefo re t hat t o l ea rn t o
, ,
be a good ,
e asy shav er ,
on e m u st st u dy t he b e a r d a n d l ea r n to

u n d ersta n d it s o that , w h e n ev er he l ays his ha n d u p on

it he wi l l k now w hich one of his r azor s wi l l s hav e it
 M AN U AL . 36

w it h the g r eat est"

eas e . B ea r i n m i n d that this is a
k no w l ed ge w hich m u st be gai n ed by ca r efu l st u dy a n d
o bs er vati on . I t is one of the i n d is p ensab l e p re

r equ i sit es w hi ch e v er y ba r b er m u st mast er b efo re he

ca n b ec o m e t r u l y acc om p l ish ed i n the art of shavi ng .

A ba r b er m u st also u n d er sta n d how t o ha n d l e a ra zo r .

H an d l i n g a ra zor a pp ea r s t o be v er y si m p le ,
et
y , si n c e
e v er y a r t s u ggests s om e d eg ree of s ki ll , t he art of

shavi n g n at u r a ll y s u gges ts some d eg r ee of s k i l l i n t he

u se or ha n d l i n g o f the r a zor .

Bu t s k i ll i n ha n d l i n g a raz or d o es n o t m ea n an
y

u nn ec essa r y p a r ad e o f fa n cy or “
m on k ey m o ti on s .

S u ch a cts i n t en d ed as a d is p l ay
,
of s k i ll m erel y
,
ex

hibits on e s i gnor a n c e o f t he t on s or ia l
’
art . S k i ll ,

t h er efor e, m ea n s s u ch d ex t er ity i n ha n d l i n g t he r a zor

as w i ll l en d g r ac e a n d eas e of m o v em en t . This g r ac e
and ea e s o f mo v em en t can be attai n ed onl y th ro u gh
c on ti n u ed p r actic e . T o aid the r ead er t o its attai n
m en t he sh
,
o u l d o bs er v e c lo s el y t he following i nst ru c
t ion s and s u ggesti on s N ev er h el d t he r a zor on its
ed ge and s c r ap e as if you w er e r aki n g a l a w n ; this
 B AR B E R S ’

w i l l sp o i l the edg e of the sha rp est r a zor s m a r t a n d

,

c u st om er s fac e m ak e t he of h ot
'

and
’
bu rn you r ,
u se

c l o ths an d l o ti on s ne e c ssa ry t o a ll ay the i rr itati on .

A l w a y s h ol d y o u r r a zor fi rml y ,
bu t as flat l y as p o s
si b l e , w ith o u t a llo w i ng the back o f the b l a d e t o t o u ch
t he sk i n . This m a y app e a r a l itt l e a w k w a r d at fi rst ,

bu t t he a w k w a rd ness w i ll be o v er c om e by di l ig en t
p ractic e . R u n the r a zor stea d i l y a n d l ight l y th ro u gh
t he b ea rd a n d o v er the fac e . Do n ot t r y t o m ak e
e x t ra lo ng st ro k es si m p ly b eca u s e t he ra zor s eem s t o
,

ou t w ell . I f you do , yo u w ill be l ik el y t o loo s e c on

t rol of eith er t he raz o r or th at p or ti o n o f the fac e o v er
w hich t he r a zo r is i nt en d ed t o g l id e a n d th u s , p re

cip it ate s om e i nj u ry t o eith er y o u rs el f or y ou r cu s

t o mer . Accid en ts w i ll h a p p en t o t he m o st ca refu l

ar tist ,
bu t ca rel ess att em pts t o o v erd o t he th i ng w il l
faci l itat e an d mu l ti p l y th em .

A l w ays k eep y o u r raz o r st r ict l y u n d er y o u r c on

t rol s o that at a l l ti m es
, v ou w i ll be ab l e to u n d er
sta n d j u st how it is o k i ng
w r . The sh o rt m i n ci ng
st ro k e cann o t be e s p ec iall y r ec o m m en d ed a l t ho u gh ,
 B A R B ER S ’

a r a zo r is l igh t ha nd ed n ess -
. A ba r b er sh o u ld n ev er
p ress h eav i l y u p o n t he fac e w ith the r a zor . It wil l

m a k e the face s m a rt a n d b u rn no m att er how sh ar p ,

the ra zo r m ay be .

V er y l itt l e fo rc e sh o u l d be u s ed i n u r gi n g the

r a zor th ro u gh t he b ea r d . I f t he r a zor is sh a r p it ,

w i ll n o t r eq u i re m u ch m or e th a n t he fo rc e o f its o wn

weight t o s en d it th ro u gh t he b ea r d w ith ea es an d
d ex t er ity . I f the r a zo r— b ei n g sh a r p a n d the b ear d
p opr e rl y p pa dre re —
wi ll n ot ou t fr ee a n d easy it is ,

d oll a rs t o d o u gh nu ts th at it is no g oo d a n d sh o u l d be

th ro w n asid e .

A l w ays ha n d l e y o u r r a zor as l igh t l y a n d as d eft l y

as p o ssib l e ,
an d n ev er sh av e the fac e c lo s e u nl ess yo u r
c u st om er ex p r ess l y req u ests y ou to do so .

N e v er d ig t he ski n w ith t he r a zor ,

and ne v er
shav e agai st n t he g r ai n — e sp eci a ll y on t he n eck
e x c ep t by t he e x p ress re q u est o f y o u r c u st om e r ,
as

this s o rt of shavi ng is t he p r i m a r y cau se o f n i n ety

p er c ent . of t he s o re n ecks and fac es for w hich t he

ba rb er is g en era l l y h el d r esp on sib le .

 C H AP T E R V

H AI R C U T T I N G.

Ha
i r c u tti n g is a n ar t p ec u l i a r t o its el f .
“

No fea

t u re of the a r t o f b a r b er i n g is m or e di ffi cu l t to m ast er .

U nl ik e sh av ing, t r i mm i ng the hai r r eq u i r es a r tisti c

tast e as
, w ell as ski ll in e x ec u ti on . T o b ec om e a n
a rtistic h ai r c u t t er ,
on e m u s t p o ss ess so me of t hese

n at u ral gi ft s p ec u l ia r
-
to t he art .

h is a gen er a l sav i ng t h at g ood sh av ers d o n o t

m a k e g oo d hai r c u tt er s ,
an d that g ood hai r c u tt e rs
do not m a k e g oo d sh av ers . Y et th er e are m a n y bar

b er s w ho are b o th g oo d h ai r cu tt ers and g ood sh av ers .

T he t W O l m en ts
e e are e as
i l y b l en d ed . I t onl y re

qu i r es a d et er mi n ati on t o l ea rn c lo s e o bs ervati on a n d
,
 B A R BE R S ’

d i l ig en t p ractic e ,
to m ak e a go o d h ai r c u tt er ou t of a
g oo d sha v er ,
or a g oo d sh a v er ou t of a g oo d hai r

c u tt er . Goo d hai r c u tti ng o rd i na ri l y sign i fi es t he

abi l it y t o ex ec u t e an a rtistic h ai r cu t in any of t he

v a ri o u s st y l es . Bu t st y l es i n h ai r c u tti n g are as
v a ri ed as t he h u ma n fa n cy ,
and pass by d i fferen t
n a m es in d i fferen t pa rts of the co u ntrv . L i t tle n o ti c e
is tak e n h o w ev er , ,
of t he n a m e of t he st yl es ,
t he

st y l e pass ing g e neral l y by d esc rip t i o n r ath er tha n ,

by n a me . In th is c o nnecti o n t he ba rb er sh o u l d
fa mi l ia ri z e hi ms el f w ith t he s ta nda rd sty les of h ai r
c u tti ng s o as t o
, be ab l e t o k no w th em q u it e as w el l

by d esc ripti o n as b y n a m e . H a v i n g th u s fam i l ia r

i z ed hi ms el f with t he d ifi e ren t sty les of h ai r c u tti ng

t he n ex t thi ng t o l ea rn is ho w t o ad apt th es e di fferent
s ty l es t o t he sha p e of t he d i fferen t h eads , w ith s u ch
m o d ifi cati o ns as w i l l s u it the cap ri c o of t he t rad e ,
for

as w as b efo re o bs erv ed sty l es , of hai r c u tti ng are as

v a ri ed as t he hu m an fan cy . T he sa m e sty l e of h ai r
ou t, w en h p u t on di fferen t h eads ,
m u st — si n c e ev er y
man
’
s h ead d i ffers from e v er y o th er s i n eith er si z e
, or
 MA N UA L . 42

shap e— be m o di fi ed t o s om e ex t en t i n o rd er to set it
,

off t o t he b est ad v a n tag e . That is t o say ,

if yo u p u t

a Me t ro p ol ita n hai r c u t on A .
,
and i t app ea rs t o
g oo d ad v a ntag e ,
t he sa m e s ty l e of h ai r ou t , w h en p u t

on B -
who h as a d i fferen tl y sh ap ed h ead and a d i ff e
r

e nt q u a l i ty o f h ai r— m u st be m o d i fi ed ,
in e i th er
l ength or o u t l i ne ,
in o rd er t o m a k e i t app ea r eq u al l y
as wel l on B as. on A . T he d eg ree of m o di fi cati o n
m u s t be d et erm i n ed b y t he b a rb e r hi ms el f ,
w ho m u st

c al l i n t o u ti l i ty his ow n a rtistic t ast e a nd j u dg m ent .

V e ry freq u en t l y ba rb ers are ca l l ed u p o n t o cu t h ai r

in no pa rti c u l a r o r k no wn st y l e ,
bu t acc o rdi ng t o t he

d i recti o n s of the c u st o mer . Th es e d irectio ns o ft en

t es t t he a rtistic tast e an d sk i l l of t he w o r k ma n . He

h as n ot o n l y t o g rasp a n d ca rry his c u st o m er s i d ea ’

i nt o ex ec u ti o n bu t m u s t l y u p o n h is taste as t o
‘

,
re ow n

s u c ha rtistic fi nish as w i l l l ea v e t he j ob app ea ri ng t o

t he b est ad v a ntag e . It w i ll be w el l , th erefo re t o ,

st u dy t he p ri n ci p l es of fi n ishi ng off a hai r cu t in an

a rtisti c m a nner , w h ich c o nsists m ai n l y in re g u l a rit y

 B ARB E R S ’

o f l en gth a n d o u t l i n e .

T he o u t l i n e o f a hai r ou t sh o u l d be r egu l ar and p er

feet , b eca u s e it is the fir st b est e vid enc e o f g oo d

w or k m a n shi p . T he o u t l i n i n g o f a hai r cu t in su ch a

m a nn er as t o gi v e t o it the b est app ea r a n c e c on sist en t

w ith t he sha p e of the h ea d a n d n ec k , and the sty l e o
f

h ai r cu t you are try i n g t o ex ec u t e sh o u l d

, be s o u ght
w ith g r eat ca re a n d p r ecisi on .

E v er y man l ik es t o h av e his hai r cu t in su ch m a n

ner as w i l l add t o his ap p ea r a n c e .

T he fi rst thi ng o th er s w i ll c r iticis e or cbmmend is

t he m a n ner in w hich a h ai r cu t is fin is hed . T he

p rom i nen c e of the o u t l i n es is the thi n g th at b r i ngs to

on e s no tic e the fact o f the hai r
’
cut , a n d is su r e to c al l
for t h ei th er a n ex p r essi on o f c omm en d ati on or w o rd s

of ha r sh c r it i c i s m . T he r ep u tati on of a b ar b er as a

h ai r c u tt e r th er efo re d ep en ds l a r gel y u p on
, , t he r eg u
l arity a n d p erfect ness o f the o u t l i n es o f his w or k .

T he s k i ll o f a ba r b er as a h ai r c u tt er c on si sts in his
abi l ity t o a d a p t a n y giv en sty l e of hai r cu t t o the
 MA NU A L . 44

s ha p e o f a n y h ead ; t o ca rry the i nst r u cti o ns o f a

c u st om er i n t o ex ec u ti on t o gi v e u ni fo
rm ity o f l en gth
and acc u r acy o f ta p eri ng an d t o gi v e g u la rity t o
"

re
-

t he an g l es and o u t l i n es of t he hai r .

T o m aster th es e s ev e r al feat u es of sk i l l r
,
the b a r b er
mu st m a k e the a r t o f hai r c u tti n g a st u dy as ,
w ell as

a p ro fessi on . H e m u st be ab l e t o no t o nl y u n d er
”
st an d w h at is w a n t ed , bu t ,
h avi ng u n d er st oo d w hat
is w a n t ed , he m u st be ab l e t o un d ersta n d j u st how

his w or k sh o u l d l oo k w h en fi n ish ed a n d how to w or k

,

u
p t o that u n d er sta n d i n g .

W e o ften h ea r g en t l em en c om p l ai n th at the b a rb er
d id not cu t th ei r h ai r t o s u i t th em . I n s u c h cas es it
is o b vi o u s t hat ei th er t he ba rb e r d i d n o t un d ersta n d
his b u si n ess ,
or th at he fai l ed t o o bs erv e t he

i n st r u cti on s giv en hi m . That he w as d efi ci en t

i n s k i l l or n eg lig ent
,
as to 1 nst ru ct ons, i is the onl y
p l au sib l e c on c l u s i on .

T her e are o th er i n ci d ents p erta i n i ng t o the art o f

h ai r c u tt i n g
-

w hich sh o u l d n ot be pa s ed
s
w i th ou t
45
-

B ARBER S ’

m enti o n .

S o meth i ng h as a l read yb een s aid a b o u t

. t he eu t

l i ni ng of a h ai r cu t . I t m ight be w el l to fu rth er ob

s e rv e that t he o u tl i ne o r ci rcl e sh o u l d n ot ru n high

a bo ve t he e ar, th u s l ea v i ng a b a re spac e b et ween the

e dg e of t he hai r an d t he i n t ers ec ti o n o f th e h ead an d

ea r . N eith e r sh o u l d t he t e m p l e li ne ru n t o a poi nt
i n f ro n t of t he ear , nor st raigh t ac ro ss from the top
of t he ear . E ith er sh o w s a w n a t of a rtistic t ast e .

T he t em p l e o u tli ne sh o u l d be m ad e t o ru n as c l o s e t o
t he c ar as possi b l e ,
at t he i n t e rs ectio n of t he e ar a n d

h ead ; t h en it sh o u ld be a ll o w ed t o d ro p i n fro n t of

t he ear, a b o u t a q u a rter or th ree eights -

of an i nch ,

and ru n st raigh t or sq u a re ac ro ss t he t em p l e —u n el ss
o th erwis e o rd ere d by t he c u st om er . T he ab ov e l
ru e

w i l l app l y as w el l t o t he s em i ci rc l e
-

and t he E n l g ish
r ou nd ,
as to t he s q u a re t e m p le o u t l i ne . In e ith er
cas e ,
t he d ro p or a ng l e in f ro n t of t he ear w i l l v a ry in
d eg ree acco rdi ng t o t he shap e
, o f t he h ead and t emp l e .

T he sq u are ,
t he s e mi ci rc l e
-

an d t he E ng l ish r o u nd ,

m a y be c o nsid ered sta n da rd t em p l e o u t l i n es . Th ey

47 BARBER S ’

F i r st . T he h ai r sh o u l d be l eft fu l l on t he bac k o f
the n eck bu t w hcre
, t he n ec k is l a rg e or b ro ad ,
the

st r aight o u t l i n e sh o u ld ru n s u ffi ci en t l y t o w a r d t he

c en t er o f t he bac k of the nec k t o giv e the h ai r

,
cu t

the ne at est p o s sib l e a p p earan c e .

S ec o nd . W hrre the ne c k is t hi n or ,
the hai r d o es
not g ro w fu ll on t he sid es ,
the st r aight o u t l i n e sh o u l d
be cu t i nt o t he hai r o nl y d eep eno u gh t o m a k e it p er

feet, th u s l eavi ng t he h ai r on the bac k o f t he n ec k as

fu ll as p o ssib l e . In eith er cas e t he l i n es sh o u l d be

p erfect ly p l ai n a n d re gu lar .

Do not ru n the st raight o u t l i n e st r aight d ow n one

sid e o f the n eck ,

and a l lo w the l i n e on t he o th er sid e
to ru n at r igh t a ngl e t o w a r d the c ent er of the bac k o f
t he n ec k . This wi l l sp o i l the g oo d effe ct o f the b est
hai r cu t.

In ma k i ng the ro u nd sq u a r e o r a n g u l a r o u t l i n es on
,

the bac k o f t he n eck , t he a rtistic tast e of t he w or k

man m u st be calh d i nt o r eq u i siti on . S u ch ou t l i n es

m u st v a r y acc or di ng t o the sh ap e o f the n ec k . Bu t

as a ma r k of g oo d wor k m a nship they sh o u l d s ho w

,
a
 MA N U A L .

p erfect l y ev en edg e . C a re sh ou l d be tak en t o g et a

p erfect ci rc l e ex t en d i ng from t he c ent er of t he neck

in t he bac k a ro u nd
,
the sid es an d u p to t he bac k of

t he ear ; and w h ere t he ne c k is shav ed sq u a re ,

t he

p o i n ts o r c or ner s sh o u l d be r eg u l a r and e v en . N o th
i ng w i ll d et r act fro m the a pp ea ra n c e of a g oo d hai r
ou t s o m u ch as i rr eg u la r or l o psi d ed l i n es a n d p o i nts
i n the b ac k a n d sid es of the ne ck .

A sid e fro mw h at has b een said of the o u t l i n es o f a

h ai r ou t , o nl y a fe w p r actica l s u gg est i on s can be giv en .

T he l en gths t o w hich the hai r m ay be cu t va r i es

acc or di n g t o s ty l e a n d the i nst r u cti o n s fro m .
the

c u st om er .

In c u tti n g the hai r t o the v a r i on s l engths ev enn ess ,

sh o u l d be s o u ght . T he b a r b er sh o u l d n ev er l eav e the

hai r fu l l o f n i ck s and l u mp s on the c o nt r a r y t he
’

hai r sh o u l d be ev en l y a n d n eat l y shi ng l ed . Use the

c l i pp er s as l itt l e as p o ssib l e ,
and w h en u s ed at a ll ,

a l w ays ta p er the hai r s u ffi ci en t l y t o o b l it er at ethe c l ip

er m ar k s D o n o t l eav e a n ab r u p t b u l g e i n the hai r
p .
49 B ARBER S ’

at the poin t w h ere the c l ipp er s st o p .

Do no t ru n the c l ip p ers h igh eno u gh u

p t he si d es
and b ack of the h ead t o m ak e i t necessarv to cu t the

hai r on t he c ro w n of t he h ead c lo s e ,
to t he sca l p .

O ne of the most disg u sti ng feat u res of hai r c u tti ng

is what m a y be ca ll ed c ro w n s w ipi ng .

N ev er cu t t he hai r on t he c ro w n of t he h ead c lo s e
,

t ) the h ead , un e l ss ex p ress l y di rec ted t o do so by y o u r

c u st om er l ss i t is abs ol u t el y c ssa ry t o giv e
“

,
or u n e ne e

t he b est effe ct t o t he h ai r cu t .

A l w a y s l ea v e t he hai r p ro p o rtio n at ely lo ng ,

from

t he c ro w n t o t he fro n t of the h ead .

I t is b est t o l ea rn t o t ri m t he h ai r ,
on t he t op
of t he h ead th ro u gh
, t he fi ng ers . This m eth o d of

hai r c u tti ng gi ves t he b est satis facti o n esp ecia ll y ,

in

t ri mm i ng t he hai r on the top an d c ro w n of t he h ead ,

and in t ri mm i ng c u rl y hai r , w h ere t he h ai r is t o be .

l eft fu ll and flo w i n g .

Do n ot t ri m t he hai r sh o rt ,
un e l ss ex p ress l y d i rect
ed to d o so .
 MA N UA L . 50

A l w ays a sc ertai n j u st how y o u r c u st om er w a n ts his

h ai r t ri m med . L ea rn t o fo rm in y ou r ow n m i nd j u st
ho w t he j ob sh o u l d l oo k w h en fi n ish ed a n d a vo i d
,

w hacki ng a w ay u n ti l of hai r b efor e

, yo u

Do y o u r b est on e v ery hai r cu t s l ight n o one an d

t ak e ad v a ntage of e v ery o p p or t u n ity t o i m p ro v e y o u r
ski l l i n w o rk m a n shi p .
 C H AP T E R V I .

T OO L S .

N o m ech a n i c ca n d o g ood w or k w ith o u t g oo d t ool s .

An acc om p l ish ed wor k m a n m u st n ot onl y k n o w

how t o prepa re an d h a n d l e t ool s bu t m u st a l s o p o ss ess ,

a set o f t ool s fi t for p repa rati on — fi t for h a n d l i ng .

H e m u st be p o ss ess ed o f a c om p l et e set of t ool s of t he

v ery b est q u a l ity . I t is n ot en u o gh t o p o ss ess a g oo d

r az o r or a ood h on e or a g oo d set of st re ps A
, g ,
.

g oo d ba rb er sh o u l d h av e at l east a ha l f d oz en g o od
r az o rs a , g oo d bone and a g oo d pai r of st reps .

I w n a t t o i m p ress u
p on t he m i nd of t he w o rk m a n

t he abs ol u t e ne ec ssity of
good t ool s ,
for, I r ep eat no ,

mecha n i c ca n d o g oo d w or k w ith o u t good t ool s .

 MA N UA L . 52

The R a zor , H o ne a n d St ro ps ,
are the m o st i mp o r
ta nt i mp l ements i n t he b arb er s kit ’
. His s u cc ess as
a n acc om p l ish ed w o rk ma n w i ll d epend u p o n th es e
i m p l emen ts ,
an d he w i ll fi nd sha v i n g q u it e l ab o ri o u s ,

if a n y one of th e m are i n fe r i o r in q u al ity .

I hav e a lr ead y giv en Su f fi ci en t i nst ru cti on s as t o

t he s el ecti on of h on es an d st re ps . N ow , as t o t he

s el ecti on o f r a zor s I , wo u l d s u gg est t he u se o f t he fo u r

and fi ve -
eighth si z e . Th ey are t he ha n di est a n d ,

th ey gi v e t he b est g en era l satis facti on . Do n ot de

ceiv e y o u rs el f i nt o the b el i ef that it r eq u i res a l a rge

r a zo r t o sh av e a h ea v y b ea r d . Th at is no t t r u e . If

a fo u r eighth
-
raz or c o ntai ns g oo d m eta l i t w i l l shav e ,

a h eavy b ea r d as d eftl y as a ra z o r of a n y o th er siz e ;

and the sa m e is t ru e o f a fi ve -

e igh th r a zo r . T he

p referen ce t o t he f . ou r an d fi ve e -

i gh th si z e is on ,
ao

cou n t of th ei r c on v en i en c e i n sh avi ng i n t he be llo w s

an d w ri n k l es of t he fac e and n e ck . Th ey are al s o

the h a n di est si z e t o u se i n sh avi ng a ro u n d t he n eck ,

i n m a n y cas es w h ere t he c u st o m er fai l s t o r emo v e his

c oll a r . Th ey are p r eferab l e b eca u s e th ey d o
,
n ot
53 B ARB E R S ’

ca rry a lo t of d ead we igh t ,

an d b ec au s e thev are

l ight ,
an d e n ab l e a ba rb er t o h and le th em w ith a
l igh t ness an d d eft ness w hich t he h ea v 1 er o r b ro ad er
r az o r d o n ot a ffo rd . A la rg e ma1 or1 ty of t he fi nest
w o rk men i n t he t o ns o ria l p ro fessio n u se t he fo u r an d

fi ve e
-

ighth siz e of ra zo rs ,
w hich is, of i ts el f a high
,

c o m p l i men t t o th es e re sp ecti v e siz es .

T he B a rb e rs S u pp ly H o u s es
’
are t he p ro p er p l ac es
for b a rb ers t o p u rch as e t h ei r ra z o rs . Th ey ca rry
t he b est an d most ap p rop riat e q u al it y of az o rs
r for

t he u se o f t he p o fessi o n
r . L ocal h a rd w a re and o th er
d ea l ers in cu tl erv an d sh a v i ng i m p le men ts k ne w v ery
l itt l e a b o u t t he m e ri ts of a razo r ,
an d a re, t herefo re ,

t he l east q u a li fi ed to s elect raz o rs ad apt ed t o the u se

of t he harbor . B u t t he ba rb ers s u pp l y men

’
not o n ly
u nd er st and the merits of r azo rs ,
bu t m ak e a p rof s
e

si o n of t he s el ecti o n an d m a nu fact u re of t ool s a nd

i mp l em en ts for u se in the t o ns o ria l a rt . Th ey sp en d

c o nsid era b l e ti me an d m o n ey i n i mp rov i ng b a rb er
t oo ls ,
a nd a re c onti n u a ll y co m i n g fo rw a rd w ith t oo l s
m ad e esp eci a ll y for the u se of ba rb ers . Th ey are,
 B AR B E R S ’

i m m at e ria l . n v er v b a rb er sh ou l d ca rry in h is k i t of

t ool s ,
tw o pai rs of sh ea rs ,
o f d i fferen t s iz es ,
fo r he w i ll

fi nd it c o n v en i ent t o u se t h em a l t ern a tel y o cca si o n ,

a ll y ,
and m a ny ti m e s he w i ll fi nd it c o n v eni ent t o
ha v e t he u se o f on e pai r ,
w h i le t he ot he r g o es t o t he

g ri nd er .

N ow ,
a w or d a b o u t C o m bs .

I t is n ot c ss ary t o c arry s e pa rat e

ne e co ml s

fo r hai r c u tti n g and h ai r d ressi n g p u rp o s es . T he

sa me c om b u s ed fo r h ai r c u tt i ng m ay he u s ed fo r

hai r d ressi ng a l s o “

. Bu t i n s elec t i ng a h ai r d ressi ng
or hai r c u t t i ng c o mb ,
re ga rd sh o u l d be h ad fo r i ts
app ro p ria t eness t o b o th u se s . I f t he b a rb er i nt end
to u se on e c om b for b ot h hai r c u t t i ng an d hai r d ress
i ng he, sh o u l d sel e ct on e e m b raci ng both c o a rs e and

fi ne pa rts . T he fi n e pa rt of t he c om b s h ou l d h a v e
u fli cien t sp ac e b et w een t he t eeth to a ll o w t he h ai r t o
p ass t h r o u gh it freel y . T he fi ne pa rt o f th e co m b is

oft en u s ed t o e d g e and s m oo th u t he hai r cu t , an d if

p
th ere be n ot s u ffi ci ent spac e b et w een t he t eet hh i t w il l
 MA N UA L . 56

not pic k u
p t he h ai r freel y , an d th ereby ca u s e con

s id e rabl e ann e v ance to t he ba rb er .

I t w o u l d be t he b ett er p ractic e t o ca rry w ith the kit

o f t oo ls a fi ne n eck c om b , for u se in t ri mm i ng the n eck
and ed g es of t he h ai r" A l t h o u gh t he n eck c om b is
n ot a n i ndis p ensa b l e i m p l emen t it is , ,
v
n e er th el ess ,

an u s efu l on e, and sh o u ld be a c o m p l em ent t o e v ery

b arb ers ’
wor ki ng o u t fi t . I t is a l s o a d v is ab l e t o c arry
i n t his o u t fi t at l east t wo h ai r c u tt i ng c om b s ,
fo r a
ba rb er h as no m ea n s of k n o w i ng j u st w h en he is l iab l e
t o b reak a c om b ,
or w h en by s o me m is hap
, ,
he w i ll

k n o ck a fe w t eeth '

ou t of his c o m b ,
w hich a l w ays
h app ens at t he m o st u s efu l pa rt of that t oo l . I f he

h as tw o or m o re c o mbs it ,
w i ll cost bu t a t ri fle m o re ,

a nd sa v e a g reat d ea l of i nconv enience and ann o ya n c e .

T he c l ipp er is an n i st ru m ent w hich o cc u pi es a con

s
p i c u ou s p l ac e i n t he b a rb ers o u t fi t ’
. E v erv b a rb er
sh o u l d c arry in his k it tw o pai r of c l ipp ers — on e No .

1 , a nd one No . 0 . As t o t he p ro p er u se of t he c l ip
p er, it is s u ffi ci en t t o sa y th at i t sh o u l d be u se d as
57 B A R B ER S ’

spa ri ngl y as p o ssib l e .

T he a u th o r b el i ev es t his in fe rn a l l y c o n v en i e nt de

v i ce t e be t he g re at est c u rs e th at ev er cam e u p o n t he

ba rb ers ’

t ra ed . B efo re t he c l ipp er w as n v en i t ed ,
t he

b a rb er st oo d s o m e cha n c e of m aki ng a d ecent liv i ng

in t he p ro fessio n . B u t t he i nt ro d u cti o n of this i ng

n io u s i n st ru m ent has b een t he mea ns of i nc reasi n g t he

n u mb er engag ed in t he p ro fessi o n t o an a l a rmi ng ex

t e nt , w h ile i ts p ri v a t e u se has d ec reas ed t he n u m b er

of h ai r c u ts ,
w hich t he b a rb er migh t o bt ai n p e r ,
an

n u m, at l east c ent add t o this

I

3 0 p er . “ li en we

sp ec u l ati v e l oss t he p ro b ab l e l o ss s l ti ng
re u from the

u se of the c l ipp er in b a rb er sh ps o
,
we w i ll fi n d the net

lo ss t o be a l mo st i nca l c u l a b l e . T he p ro fessi o n ,
th ere
f ore w o u l d be b et te r off wi t h o u t t he
, c l ipp er th a n w i t h
it . Bu t si n c e it is h ere -

a nd h ere t o sta y — the ba

be r m a y as w el l a v ai l hi ms el f of it s p rac tica l u se . I
woul d s u ggest h o w ev e r that
, ,
i ts u se be so far re st rict
ed as can be m ad e p racti ca l ,
an d a h igh er sta nda rd
of wo r k m a nship be i na u g u rat ed .

Th ere is one o th er thi ng I w i sh t o m en ti on b efor e I

 M A N UA L . 58

c o nc l u d e ,
and th at is w t i h f
re ere n e c to t he u se o f t he

ne ck d u s ter . T he b a rb er sh o u l d u se t he n eck d u s ter

freel y . It is disg u sti ng ly un p l easa nt t o ha v e a ba r

be r b lo w the h a i r from ab o u t t he n eck an d sh o u l d ers

i h
w t an e x h a l ati o n of b reath an d ai r , i nst ead of re

m ov i n g it by t he u se o f t he n ec k d u s t er . E v er v "

38 1

ber sh o u l d ca rry a neck d u s ter of h is ow n i n his w o r k

i ng o u tfi t ,
an d u se it freel y w h e nev e r o ccasi o n re

q u i res it . T he ne ck d u s t er is esp eci a ll y d esig ned fo r

u se w h i l e c u tt i ng t he h ai r t o
,
re mov e t he l o o s e c l ip

pi ngs fro m ab o u t t he ne ck ,
fac e and s ho u ld er s s o ,
do

n o t u se y o u r b rea th or t he w hi sk b ro o m ,
bu t i nst ead
u se t he n e ck d u s ter . It is the o n l y p ro p er i nst ru m e nt
to u se for th is pa rtic u l a r p u rp o s e .
GO O D
T O O LS
l ar ber.
a re essentia l to the su ccess u f l
No ma tter how w ell the
. trad e may
ha re been lea r ned no ,
matter how
e r ert the w or kma n , good resu lts can
p
u ot be o btai ned u n less he has good
tools to w ork w ith l Ve ma ke on ly the
.

s oo n
S U P P L IE S
'
are a lso j u st as essen ia
l
. T he soap ,

bay ru m, hai r ton ic, r e a ra ti ons

p toilet p ,

etc, tha t o u u s e u p on ou r cu stomers

y y
m u st be of the very bes t Yo u a re a l .

w a ys s u re of t he best if t he n ame
'
I CO CH S i s u p on i t .

(5 9 0 1 )
R
w i ll tell ou t ha t a ll t he i s r ery
a bove
y
tr u e a n d , if you w ill ask t hem, t hey w i ll
tc ll you that w e ar e GO O D too.

THEO A K ooHs GOMPANY

. .
'

1 5 8 1 7 0 W ELLS sax
-

, GHIGAGO .

W ew ill m a i l y o u o u r Ill u s t ra t e d
C a t a lo g u e i f y o u w i ll a s k fo r i t ,
 a r ers i a irs
—
A R E T H E; V E R Y E3
T hese being u sed
cha irs a r e n o w

a ction i n lea d i ng ba r be r s ho s a l l
feet sati sf p
over t he cou ntry The y w ere a war d ed the
.
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med a l a t t he A as hml l e ( entennm l

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r 1

t ion a nd,
a re
gen era l l
y r eco n iz ed
g as

lea d i ng cha i rs on the mar k et .

ALS O MAKE

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A N D 9 GE N E R A L LIN E O F

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ll 91 5
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e lls S tree t , C h i ca g o ;

W w he n you a re re a ly
l to .
o pen y o ur

s ho p , w e s ha ll
he p l e a s e d t o su b
mi t an e s ti ma t e o f t he C o st .
 A C L QS E S H A V E
P R IC EZ
-

IS W HAT EYERYBODY W ANTS

"
H O W IS r eu s e
“

An a r tic e l f o r $ 93 w h ic h d oes the sa me

w o r k a s o the r Ma ch i n e s co stin g $ 1 0 0 .

F
i en d us y ou r n ame
dd ress and let u s t ell y o u
and a ,

' '

a l l ab o u t ou r $2 0 l yp e w ri te r I t is q u ick ly l earned
‘

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i e as v t o o p erat e w i ll n o t g e t o u t o f o rd e r an d d oes
s
,
.

e v e r vt hi ng an y $31 0 0 t y p e w rit er w i l l d o .

ha v e tho u s and s f testi m o n ia ls to p ro v e all

T
“

”
e o we

c l ai m fo r t he

see one . T Y P EW RI T ER .

IN u se . A L L T H E D E S I R AB L E F F AT U R E S o r

A t u nsr c na s s W
-

R I T I N G M AC H I N E .

Od e ll T y p e W r i te r C o n
,

De a rbo m S t ” C h i ca g o , I l l .
 '
S All GRADE AS AGENTS S ELL i’ fii? 5 60 . .

W e Have no Agent s bu t S et"Eit eat

l

to the Ri d e r at Manu fact u rer s

’

Prices , S av ing
" You al l ,

Agent s Profits
’
.

Be s t
m at e r i al s S u p e rb fi n i s h E ig h t
e le g an t m o d e l s
.
,

W e shi p a n y w h e re w it h
.

p ri v le g e o f e x am i n a t i o n p a y e x p re s s
i

c h ar e s b o th
,

w av e an d r c t m a yo u r
r

m o n e y i f n ot as re p r e s e n t e d E v e ry
‘
A
cm e i s f u l ly gm o rcm tew t ( m a i n s ;
a f t A c c i d e nts as w e l l a s Def e ct i v e W o r k
ma n sh i p . S en d fo r c a t al o g u e .

W Main S t .
A . B . M OLE R .
 PR E F A C E .

I n t he pag e s f ollo w i n g i t h as b e e n m y i n t e n t i o n
t o i ll u st r at e a n d p r e s e nt a s e t o f r u l e s t h at w i l l at a l l

ti m e s b e a gu id e b o t h w h i l e l e a r n i n g a n d aft e r co m
'

p l e t i n g t h e b a r b e r t r ad e. I h av e t r i e d t o p re s e n t a

sy st e m t h o r o u gh a n d s i m p l e i l l u st r at i n g i n d e tai l t h e
,

r e qu i r e m e n ts f o r t h e re a l t o n s o r i a l a r ti st a n d the

t r ai n i n g n e c e s sa ry t o f a m i l ia r i z e h i m w i th t h e
t e ch n ica l d e t ai l s o f t h i s p r o f e ssi o n.

B y r e as o n o f m y s i x y e a r s o f c o n st a n t t e ach i n g a n d

m y fi f t ee n y e a r s of s e r v ic e a t t h e ch ai r I f e e l t h at n o
,

o n e h a s h ad a b e tt e r op p o r tu n i ty t o p r acti c e a n d
st udy t h e w o r k th a t I n o w l ay b e f o r e y o u .

I h o p e t o m ak e t h is b oo k o f m o r e th a n o r di n a r y

s e r v ic e t o y o u a n d by f ollo w i n g i ts i n s t r u cti o n s
,

c l o s e l y c o m b i n e d w i t h t h e ad va n t ag e s o u r c ol l e g e s
,

o ffe r th e r e i s n o c h a n c e f o r fa i l u re
, .
 T H E BA R BE RS MA N UAL
’

PAR T I .

P H Y S I C AL AN D MEN T AL RE QU I R E M E N T S
T HE B A R BE R .

In c o n s id e r i n g t h e id e a o f b e c o m i n g a ba r b e r t h e
,

fi r st qu e sti o n th at p r e s e n t s i ts e l f i s " Wh a t a r e t h e
r e qu i r e m e n ts n e c e ss a r y i n o r d e r t o i n su r e su c ce ss a ft e r

l a b o r i n g at t h is w o r k Wi ll m y n e r v o u s sy s t em p e r
m it o f h an d l i n g th e ra z or W i l l t h e n a tu r e o f w o r k I
h av e d o n e i n t h e pas t b a r m e fr o m t h i s p r o f e s si n ? A r e
o

m y m e n t a l p r o p e n s i ti e s su ch th at th e y wi l l a l lo w m e
t o w a i t u p o n o th e r s w i t h pati e n c e a n d w it h s ol icitu d e
fo r th e i r w e l f a r e 7 T h e qu e st i o n 1 8 o ft e n ask e d by
v

t h o s e p re pa r i n g t o ta k e u p t h e w o r k ,Wi ll I m ak e
“

a ba r b e r 7 T h e r e i s bu t o n e a n sw e r t o t h i s ,

a nd th a t is h av e y o u t h e pati e n c e a n d e n e r gy t o
,

p r act ic e d i l i g e n t l y a t t h e w o r k u n ti l y o u h av e th o r
o u g h l y m ast e re d it p r o v id i n g y o u h a v e at y o u r d is
,
“

p o s a l t h e o pp o r t u n i ty f o r c o n sta n t p r act ic e a n d t h e
ass is ta n c e o f sk i l l fu l i n st r u ct o r s
6 T H E B A R B E RS M A N U A L
’
.

Th e r e is n o pa r t o f t h e ba r b e r t rad e th at i s i m p o s
s ib l e f o r a n o n e w i t h o r di n a r y a b i l i ty No m a n is
y .

”
t oo n e r v o u s t o tak e u p t h i s trad e a s i t i s pa r t o f y o u r
“

e du ca ti o n w h i l e a stud e n t t o o v e r c o m e y o u r n e r v o u s

t e m p e r a m e n t P r o p e r p r a ct ic e (o f w h i ch w e sh a l l
.
,

giv e y o u a d e sc r i p ti o n i n t h e f ollo w i n g pag e s ) i s su re

t o O v e r c o m e a ll d i sad v a n tag e s i n th is l i n e bu t w e ,

w o u l d adv is e th a t n o p er s o n tak e u p th i s w o r k w h o
h as n o t fi r st m ad e u p h is m i n d t o b e c o m e a pu b l ic
s e r va n t t o b e pa t i e n t a n d pa i n stak i n g w i th cu st o m
,

e r s a n d t o b e a l w ay s p l e asa n t a n d ag re e ab l e
, .

T h i s i s n o t a w o rk t h at r e qu i re s a n y S p e ci a l ada p
t a t i o n b u t l ik e e v e r y o t h e r t r ad e t h a t i s m e ch a n i ca l i t
, ,

is o n e th a t r e q u i r e s p r act ic e S o m e w i l l t e l l y o u th a t
.

y o u c a n n e v e r b e c o m e a b a r b er i f y o u a re n o t gift e d
w i th pa r t i cu l a r ta l e n ts b u t i t h as b e e n d e m o n st r at e d
,

th a t t h e m o st awk w a rd b e gi n n e rs o ft e n m ak e t h e m o st
g r a c e fu l g r adu at e s G r a c e a n d e as e o f m o t i o n a re
.

acqu i r e d by t h e c o n t i n u e d u s i n g o f c e r ta i n m u sc l e s .

Goo d ta st e h as m u ch t o d o w i th p ro p e r h ai r c u tt i n g
a n d t h e di ff e re n t sty l e s o f t h i s w o r k m u st n e c e ssa r i l y

b e a study . No m a n i s n atu r a l l y gi ft e d w i t h ab i l i ty
t o t r i m h a i r g ra c e fu ll y a n d e ach o n e m u st p r act ic e
,

a n d s t u d y t h i s w o r k a l ik e W h i l e s o m e a r e m o re a p t
.

a nd pa i n st aki n g t h a n o t h e r s e v e ry o n e c a n f oll o w
,

ex am pl es an d d i re ct i o n s l a id d o w n by i n st r u ct o r s .

T h u s y o u s e e n o p e r s o n o f s o u n d m i n d a n d o r d i n a ry
,

ab i l i ty n e e d e x c l ud e th e m s e l v e s f ro m th i s t r ad e i f
t h e y a r e w i ll i n g t o ap p l y t h e m s e lv e s t o t he w o r k .
 T H E B A R B E RS M A N U A L
’
.

C a r e l e s s n e ss h as n o p l a c e i n b a rb e r b u s i n e ss a n d
,

n o o n e w i ll succ e e d e ith e r i n bu si n e ss f o r h i m s e l f o r

a s a j o u rn e y m a n ,
w h o is n o t b o t h ca r e fu l i n h i s o w n
app e a r a n c e a s w e l l as t h a t o f h is s h O p.
 '
8 T H E B AR B E RS M A N U A L .

PA RT II .

S EL E CTIO N AND CAR E OF TO O LS .

Goo d t ool s i n e v e r y m e c h a n ica l t r ad e h av e m u ch

t o d o w i th t h e t r ad e s m a n s s ucc e ss T h is is p a rt i c u
’
.

l arl y t r u e o f t h e B a r b e r T r ad e No o n e c a n b e a .

fi r s t c l ass w o r k m a n w i th o u t fi r s t c l ass t ool s k e pt i n

- -

p ro p e r o r d e r W e t oo o ft e n fi n d t r ad e s m e n t r y i n g t o
.

a pp l y th e i r ski l l wi t h t ool s w h ol l y u n fi t f o r th e i r
w o rk .

RAZ ORS .

In s e l e ct i o n o f a B a r b e r s O u t fi t o n e o f t h e
t he
’

m o st e ss e n tia l t h i n gs is t h e R a zo r M an y t im e s a .

p e rf e ct r a zo r is c o n d e m n e d by t h e w o rk m a n w h o h as
n o t gi v e n i t a sa t i sfact o r y t r ia l o r h o n e d i t d o w n t o a

p e rf e ct e dg e N e w r a zo r s a r e n e v e r h o n e d i n p e r f e ct
.

c o n di t i o n a n d e v e r y r a zo r wh e n fi r st pu r cha s e d sh o u l d
,

b e giv e n a t l e ast a w e e k s t r i a l b e f o re b e i n g co n
’
, ,

d e m n ed No o n e c a n t e ll p e r f e ct s t e e l f ro m t h e loo k s
.

o f i t u n l e ss i t h a s b e e n bu r n e d i n g r i n d i n g w h ich ,

w o u l d c au s e i t t o s h o w b l ack sp o t s su ch sp o ts a s w e ,

s o m e t i m e s fi n d i n a ch i s e l o r p lo w sh e a r I n s e l e ct .

i n g a r a zo r as f a r as t h e st e e l i s c o n c e r n e d th i s i s
, ,

t h e o n l y t h i n g t o l oo k f o r You w il l n e ver b e a ble to

.

d i sc o v e r w h e t h e r y o u r r a zo r is t oo s o ft o r t oo h a rd
f ro m sha v i n g o r h o n i n g i t as t h e re a r ezt o o m a n y co n
,

d i t i o n s w h ic h aff e c t a r a z o r wh i l e i n p r o c e ss o f sh a rp
e ni ng .T h e fact th a t a r a z o r s h a r p e n s s l o w l y o r th a t
10 T HE B A RB E R S M A N U A L
’
.

A h alf th r ee qu a r t e r c o n cav e h av e l e ss o f
an d -

a h ol lo w g ri n d a s d e sc r ib e d T h e fu ll c o n ca v e
.

i s t h e m o st e x p e n s iv e s ty l e o f g r i n d i n g w e h av e ,

and i s o n l y u s e d i n a h ig h g r ad e r az o r It is .

t h e m o st d esi r ab l e a s i t l igh t e n s t h e w e i gh t o f
t he b l ad e acc o rd i n g t o t h e w idt h o f i t a n d ,

r e qu i r e s l e s s h o n i n g a n d s t r o ppi n g t o sh a r p e n
t he s am e .

I n s e l e ct i n g t ool s n e v e r st ick t o c e r ta i n b r a n d s
si m p l y b e caus e t h e y h av e b e e n re c o m m e n d e d f o r ,

n e arl y e v ery w e l l k n o w n r az o r h as ch e ap i m i
t a t i on s . T h e fi v e e igh t h
-
s i z e is o rd i n a r i l y t h e
m o st c o n v e n i e n t a n d a l t h o u gh i t i s a l it t l e
, ,

l a r g e r t h a n m o st b a r b e r s p r e f e r t h e r az o r a l ,

w ay s g ro w s s m a ll e r i n s t e ad o f l a r g e r a n d i t i s ,

b e st t o gu a rd a ga i n st g e tt i n g t h e m t oo s m a ll t o b e gi n
w i th .

S H EA R S .

T he qu a l i ty o f s h e a r s c a n b e t e st e d by a c l o s e e x
a m i n ati o n o f t h e b l ad e s I n t h e ch e ap e r qu a l i t i e s o r
.
,

w h at is k n o w n as t h e st e e l l aid o n l y a s m a l l p o r ti o n
,

o f t h e b l ad e i s s ol id s t e e l T h is qu a l i ty o f sh e a r s i s
.

u su a ll y h e avi er i n p r o p o r ti o n t o t h e l e n gth t h a n t h o s e
o f t h e g r ad e k n o w n a s fu l l st e e l I n n e a rl y e v e r v
.

ch e a p g rad e o f sh e a r s by e x a m i n i n g t h e i n s id e o f
,

t h e b l ad e s y o u w i ll s e e a d i ff e r e n t c olo r i n t h e m e ta l
,

at t h e p o i n t w h e re t h e i r o n a n d s t e e l a re w e l d e d t o
 T BA R B E NS MA N UAL
’

H E . 11

g e t h e r A st e e l l aid s h e a r as a r u l e g i v e s g oo d s e r
.
, ,

vic e as lo n g as i t l asts bu t i t i s n ot as du r ab l e as o n e
,

mad e e nt i re l v o f st e e l T h e fu l l s t e e l s h e a r u su a ll y
'
' “

h as th i n n a rr o w b l ad e s t h at a re s p ru n g i n su ch a
,

s h ap e t h at w h e n t h e sh e a r s a r e c lo s e d t h e t w o b l ad e s

o n l y t o u ch e ach o t h e r at t h e p o i n t A n o n e x p e r .
-

i e n c e d m a n is o ft e n l i a b l e t o m istak e t h is as a fl a w ,

b u t a sh e a r i n o rd e r t o cu t p r o p e r l y at t h e p o i n t
, ,

m u st h a v e t h i s sp r i n g o r s e t T h e pat e n t b u r r fas
.

t e n e rs as a r u l e a r e o f l itt l e ad va n tag e a s a shear ,

m u st b e g ro u n d a n d s e t at i n t e r v a l s du r i n g i t s s e r
vic e N e v e r t ry t o s h a r p e n y o u r o w n sh e a r s o r tigh t e n
.

t h e sc r e ws as i n th is way y o u a r e apt t o sp r i n g t h e
,

b l ad e s a n d m ak e t h e m e n t i r e l y u s e l e ss I t c o sts b u t .

a s m a ll a m o u n t t o h av e y o u r sh e a rs w e ll g ro u n d a n d ,

w e ll g r o u n d sh e a r s a re a s e ss e n t i a l t o g oo d w o r k a s a
p r o p e rl y g ro u n d r a zo r N e v e r g i v e y o u r s h e a r s t o
.

t h e st r e e t g r i n d e r s n o r t r y t h e m o n a n y sh e a r sh a r p
,

e n i n g d e v ic e Wh e n a sh e a r b e c o m e s t oo s m oo th i t
.
,

c a n s o m e t i m e s b e w i re d a t r i fl e by r u bb i n g i t o v e r a
r o u gh h o n e o r pi e c e o f st e e l b u t th i s sh o u l d n o t b e
,

p r act ic e d o ft e n T h e b l ad e s m ust b e r o ug h ed t o a
.

c e r tai n e x t e n t i n o rd e r t o k e e p t h e h ai r f r o m s l ippi n g
o u t wh e n t h e b l ad e s c o m e t o g e th e r .

T h e c h e ap e r g r ad e o f sh e a r s as a r u l e h av e t h e , ,

b l a ck j a pa n n e d h a n d l e s w h i l e t h e h igh e r g r ad e s a r e
,

n ick l e h a n d l e d a n d h igh l y p ol i sh e d A se ve n sev e n .

a n d o n e h a l f a n d e ig h t i n ch sh e a r a r e t h e m o st co n
-

v e n i e n t si z e s f o r b a r b e r s u s e .
 T H E B AR B ER S
”M AN U A L .

H O N ES U

T h e re a r e m a n y d i ff e re n t g r ad e s a n d q u a l i t i e s o f '

h o n e s a n d n o d o u bt t h e o p i n i o n o f ba rb e r s va r i e s
,

i n r e ga r d t o t h i s a r t ic l e m o r e th a n i n r e ga r d t o a n y
o th e r t ool i n t h e ba r b e r s k i t T h e G e r m a n Wat e r
.

H o n e i s t he ol d e st sty l e o r t h e fi r s t r a z o r h o n e u s e d
,
.

T h e y st i ll a re c o n sid e r e d b y rr a n y t o b e t h e b e st h o n e
i n t h e m a rk e t T h e re i s c e r tai n l y n o t h i n g t hat wi ll
.

c o m pa r e w i t h t h e m f o r t h e app r e n t ic e a s t h e y cu t s lo w ,

a n d n e v e r o v e rh o n e a s d o e s t h e c o a r s e r a n d fast e r
,

c u tti n g st o n e s I t u su a l l y re qu i re s a l itt l e m o r e t i m e
.

t o cu t a r a zo r t o a n e d g e o n th i s st o n e but o n c e t o a n ,

e d g e i t k e e ps i t i n t h e sa m e c o n d it i o n wi t h o ut d a m
agi n g t h e b l ad e .

I n u si n g t h e o i l o r l a t h e r h o n e m o r e ca re sh o u l d
”
,

b e tak e n t o p r e v e n t o v e rho n i n g f o r w h e n t he ,

r a zo r i s h o n e d t o a n e d g e i t w i l l w it h m o r e h o n i n g
, , ,

c r u m b l e o r b r e ak aw ay t o w h a t is k n o w n as t h e w i re

e dg e . T h e l a t h e r h o n e s a r e o f m a n y d i ff e r e n t qu a l i
t i e s a n d i t i s s o m e t h i n g o f a ga m b l e t o g e t a p e r f c t
, e

h o n e Th e y v a ry g r e at l y i n p r ic e s acc o rd i n g t o q u a l i ty
. .

T h e S w a t t y t h e s a m e a s t h e l at h e r st o n e is
“
“

, ,

f ast cu tti n g a nd
,
is p r o b a b l v t h e h a rd e s t h o n e t o
w o rk w i th a l th o u g h i t b r i n gs a r az o r t o a n e dg e
,

q u ick l y
”
A n ap p re n t i ce w o u l d s e l d o m b e s u cc e ssfu l
.
,

w it h th i s sty l e o f h o n e k I h é y a re h i g h l y re co m
‘
"

m e n d ed by t h e e x p e r t o r o ld ba r b e r b u t s h o u l d n e v e r,

b e re c o m m e n d e d t o a b e g i n n e r .
 T H E B A R B ER S M A N U A L
’
.
. 13

ST R O PS .

S t r o ps sh o u l d a l w ay s be u sed
pa i r s ca n v as a n d in ,

l e a t h e r T h e ca n v as is t h e o n e y o u fi r st app l y t o t h e
.

r a zo r ,and fi n i s h it w i t h t h e s m oo th l e at h e r st r o p .

R a z o r s i n c o n st a n t st r o ppi n g o n a l e a th e r st r o p b e , ,

c o m e t oo s m oo th a n d re qu i r e a c e rt ai n a m o u n t o f
,

u s e o n t h e ca n v a s Th is i s i n o rd e r t o r o ugh e n o r
.

d r aw o u t t h e e dg e a n d w he n p ro p e r l y st r o pp e d t h e y
,

r e qu i r e l e ss h o n i n g T h e h igh e r g r ad e o f ca n va s
.

st ro p i s m ad e o f s e a m l e ss h o s e a n d c a n b e u s e d o n ,

e i t h e r s id e Y o u sh o u l d b e ca re fu l t o k e e p ca n v a s
.

s t r o ps d r
y as d a m p n e ss sw e l l s t h e g r a i n a n d r o u gh e n s
t h e st r o p T h e b e tt e r q u a l i ty a r e u su a l l y m ad e o f
.

l i n e n t h e s m oo th a n d t igh t l y w o v e n qu a l i ty T h e
, .

c h e ap e r g r ad e s a re s o m e ti m e s o f c a n va s a n d a re ,

k n o w n as t h e fl a t w e b T h e y a r e o f a si n g l e t h i ck
.

n e s s l e ss du r ab l e a n d c a n b e u s e d o n l y o n o n e sid e
, ,
' .

S o m e c h e ap e r g r ad e s a re a l s o m ad e o f c o tt o n C a n .

va s st r o ps i n c o n st a n t u s e g at h e r d u st a n d g r i t w h i ch
s h o u l d b e c l e a n e d o ff by app l y i n g a l i tt l e l at h e r a n d
n

i m m e di at e l y sc r api n g it o ff w ith t h e b l ad e o f t h e
s h e a r o r a si m i l a r b l u n t i n st r u m e n t G r i t o n a c a n
. .

v a s st r o p w i ll d o m u ch d a m ag e t o a r a zo r a n d s h o u l d ,

b e w a tc h e d f o r c lo s e l y I n b r e ak i n g i n a n e w st r o p
. ,

t he g r a i n sh o u l d fi r s t b e fi ll e d w i th b e e s w a x o r s o ap ,

a n d t h i s sh o u l d b e r u bb e d i n t h o r o u gh l y wi th a b o tt l e

o r a si m i l a r i n st r u m e n t T h er e i s c o n sid e r ab l e l ab o r
.

a tta ch e d t o p r e pa r i n g a pa i r o f s t r o ps .
14 T HE B A R B E RS M A N U A L
’
.

In l c t i n g a l e a t h e r st r0 p R u ss i a l e ath e r i s
se e ,

u s u a ll y m o st d e s i r ab l e a l t h o u gh t h e m o st e x p e n s i v e
, ,

a nd is a t o ugh t h i ck , e rv i c a b l e
, s l e at h er I t is .

us u a ll y t ol d by t h e s m e ll a n d by t h e g r a i n ,

on t he b ack o f t h e st r0 p I t r e qu i re s s o m e
.

t i m e t o p re pa re a R u ss i a l e at h e r st r0 p f o r s e r vic e ,

b u t w h e n o n c e b r o k e n i n it w i ll l a st a l if e t i m e a n d
, ,

i s n o t e asy t o c u t T h e s tr0 p s h o u l d b e p re pa re d b y
.

pu t t i n g t h ick l a th e r o n t h e s u r fac e a n d r ub bi n g i t i n ,

w e ll i n t h e sa m e m a n n e r as t h e ca n vas st r0 p F r o m
, .

fi v e t o t e n m i n u t e s s h o u l d b e sp e n t o n a R u s si a
l e at h e r s t r0 p e v e r y d ay f o r t w o o r t h r e e w e e ks T h e .

l ab o r r e qu i r e d i n p re pa r i n g t h is s t ro p i s w o r t h m o r e
th a n t h e st r0 p i ts e l f M a n y ol d b a r b e r s p o ss e ss
.

s t r o ps w o r t h f ro m to A R u ssi a l e at h e r
i m p r o v e s w i t h a g e A pi g sk i n st r 0 p i s o f t h e s a m e
.

n a t u re , an d sh o u l d b e b r o k e n i n i n t h e sa m e way ,

i t i s m o st fav o re d by s o m e ba r b e r s a n d a l th o u gh n o t ,

q u it e as du r a b l e i t is m o re e a si l y p re pa re d T h e s e
,
.

s t r o ps a re n e v e r m ad e i n ch e a p qu a l i ti e s th e re b e i n g ,

b u t tw o g r ad e s m e d iu m a n d h e av y
, .

T h e h o r s e h id e s t r0 p is m ad e o f m a n y d i ff e re n t
q u a l i t i e s a n d s e ll s a t d i ff e re n t p r ic e s T h e s h e ll o r
, .
,

h o rs e ta i l i s p r o b ab l y t h e b e st o f th is c l ass I t is .

a l w ay s m oo t h n e v e r re qu i r e s fi n is h i n g o r b r e ak i n g
s ,

i n a n d i s o f a th i n n e r o r l i gh t e r g r ad e
, Th is is t h e .

m o s t du r ab l e o f h o r s e h id e st r o ps T h e o t h e r qu a l i
.

t i e s a r e c h e ap e r g r ad e s o r o f a s o ft e r m at e r i a l a n d ,

u su a ll y d r aw o r h a n g t o t h e ra z o r i n st ro p p i n g .
 T H E B A RBERS MAN UAL ’
.

T h is qu a l i ty o f s t ro p s u su a ll y re qu i re s m or e w o r k t o
-

pu t a raz o r i n c o n d it io n a n d th e y a re l e s s s e r v ic e
,

ab l e T h e y a r e e asi l y cu t a n d sh o r t l i v e d W h e n
. .

t h e y o n c e b e g i n t o w o r k r o u gh t h e r e i s n o re m e dy
,

for t hem .

C L I PP E R S .

O f t he s t r i ct l y h ig h g r ad e c l i pp e r s th e re a re bu t
f e w b r a n d s t o s e l e ct f r o m Cl i pp e r s a r e c o n st a n t l y
.

ch a n gi n g a n d b e i n g i m p ro v e d u p o n a n d l ik e a ll ,

c l ass e s o f m a ch i n e r y th e y s oo n b e c o m e ol d sty l e
,
.

A m o n g t h e l at e st i m p r o v e m e n ts th e r e is o n e c a ll e d
t he
“
pu ll sp r i n g I t is p r o m pt i n act i o n st ro n g ,

and s e r v ic e ab l e a n d c a n b e adj u st e d t o m o s t a n y
.
.

h a n d T h i s sp r i n g i s f o u n d i n b u t tw o b ra n d s o f
.

c l i pp e r s T h e adj u st i n g b l ad e m ad e t o cu t di ff e re n t
.

l e n gth s i s o f l it t l e o r n o u s e f o r its w o rk i s r agg e d

, ,

a nd gi v e s t h e h ai r t h e app e a r a n c e o f t h re e o r f o u r
w e e ks g r o w th T h e o n l y ca re t h a t i s n e c e ssa r y f o r
.

t h i s g r ad e o f c l ipp e r s i s th at th e y sh o u l d b e k e pt w e ll
o i l e d a n d w h e n o n c e p r o p e rl y adj u s t e d sh o u l d b e
, ,

l e ft i n th a t st at e I t is bad p ol icy t o r e adj u st t h e

.

m ac h i n e e x c e pt w h e n i t m u st b e ta k e n apa r t a n d
,

c l e a n e d T h e p l a t e s s h o u l d b e w ip e d o ff ab o u t o n c e a
.

m o n t h o r sh o u l d b e w as h e d o u t w i t h o u t r e adj u sti n g
,

by w o r k i n g k er o s e n e th ro u gh th e m S e w i n g m ac h i n e .

or bi cyc l e o i l is t h e b e st t o u s e T h i s g r ad e o f .

m a ch i n e c a n b e m ad e t o cu t tw o l e n gt h s by s i m ‘

p l y t u r n i n g i t o v e r i n t h e h a n d a n d u si n g i t f o r t h e
16 T H E B A R B ER S M A N U A L ’

ne ck o r . c
‘f
Q
O
”
erl i ppT h is sav e s t h e n e c e ss ity o f
.

t w o pai r s o f c l ipp e r s .

A m o n g t h e c h e ap e r g r ad e s t h e b r a nds a r e n u m e r
o u s a n d a l l o f ab o u t t h e s a m e qu a l ity S o m e h a v e
, .

t h e s p r i n g i n t h e h a n d l e s o th e r s h a v e t h e c o n c e a l e d
,

sp r i n g i n t h e b l ad e s T h e y a r e s o c o n s t r u c t e d t h at
.

t h e y w i ll ou t b u t o n e l e n gth a n d i n d o i n g t h e n i c e r ,

pa r t o f t h e w o r k i t w o u l d b e n e c e ssa r y t o h av e a
sh o r t o r a n O c l ipp e r b e s id e s t h e re gu l at i on l e n gt h
o f a n e i gh t h i n c h Th e s e c l ipp er s l ik e t h e h igh e r
.
,

g r ad e sh o u l d b e t h o r o u gh l y c l e a n e d a n d o i l e d a b o u t
,

o n c e a m o n th o r a cc o rd i n g t o t h e a m o u n t o f w o r k
,

being done .

COM BS .

I n t he s e l e ct i o n o f c o m b s t h e h a n d m ad e b o n e ,

c o m b is p re f e r ab l e I t sh o u l d b e a ta p e r i n g c o m b o f
.

m e d i u m si z e a n d o n e t h at c a n b e we l l h a n d l e d i n
,

lo n g o r s h o r t h ai r A n e ck c o m b i s u su a l l y co n s i d
.

e r e d u n n e c e ssa r y w h e r e t h e c o m b is tap e r e d f r o m a

c o a r s e r t o fi n er t e e th .

A l u m i n u m c o m b s a r e c o n s id e r e d by s o m e t h e m o st
c o n v e n i e n t b u t th e re i s a n o bj e ct i o n t o t h is s ty l e o f
,

c o m b as t h e t e e th o ft e n c o m e i n c o n t act w i th t h e
,

b l ad e o f y o u r sh e a r s .

A m o n g t h e ch e ap e r g r ad e s a re t h e m achine
m ad e ” h o r n c o m b s w h i ch a re u su a l l y m o r e b l u n t
,

a n d l e ss c o n v e n i e n t T h e h e avy r u bb e r c o m bs a r e o f
.

n o s e r vi c e t o t h e b a r b e r o n acc o u n t o f t h e i r t h ick

n e ss .
18 T H E B A RBERS M ANUA L
’
.

w i th o u t t h e c o n v e n i e n t p o ck e ts o f t h e ba r b e r s c o at ’
.

A l way s s e l e ct a j ack e t wi t h a c ol l a r a n d w i th d e tach ~

a b l e b ut t o n s .

T h e ab o v e n a m e d a r tic l e s a r e a ll tha t a re n ec e s

sa ry f o r a j o u rn e y m a n s o u t fi t b u t i n c o n du cti n g a
‘

sh o p f o r y o u r s e l f m o r e t ool s a re n e c e s s a ry a n d g re at
ca re s h o u l d b e tak e n i n s e l e c t i n g g oo d b r i s t l e b r u sh e s
for t he h a ir . B a r b e r s a r e t oo o ft e n n e g l i g e n t as t o
t h e ca r e o f th e i r b r u s h e s a l lo wi n g t h e m t o b e c o m e
,

d i r ty a n d g re a s v a n d u n fi t f o r u s e A b a i r b r u s h .

sh o u l d b e c l e a n e d t ho r o u gh l y a t l e ast o n c e a m o n th
, , .

T h e b e st way o f c l e a n i n g t h e b r us h i s b y u s i n g
st r o n g a m m o n i a w a t e r o r s e a f o a m r u bb i n g t h e p r e ,

p a r a t i o n t h o r o u gh l y t h r o u gh t h e b r i st l e s a n d w i th a ,

c o a r s e c o m b c l e a n o u t a ll t h e d a n d r u ff e t c f ro m .
,

a m o n g t h e b r is t l e s A ft e r t h e b r u s h h as b e e n t h o r
.

o u gh l y c l e a n e d a n d r i n s e d tap i t l ig h t l y o n t h e
,

b r i st l e s u n ti l d r y .

T h e m o st s e r v i c a b l e a n d p r o b ab l y t h e b e st l a th e r
'
b r u sh e s a r e th o s e w h o s e b r i st l e s a r e s e t i n vu l ca n
i z e d r u bb e r. T h e s o f t c a m e l h a i r b r u s h is o f n o s e r
v ic e t o t h e b a r b e r as it b e c o m e s t oo s o ft w h e n i n
c o n st a n t u s e .

L at h e r b r u sh e s as w e ll as cu ps sh o u l d b e th o r
o u gh l y r i n s e d b e f o r e o r aft e r e ac h sh a v e .
S T ER I LI Z I N G AN D A N T I S E P T IC SOL U T I O N S .

S t e r i l i z i n g y o u r a zo s i s a v r y i m p o r t a n t f e a tu e
r r e r

in t h e b a r b e r bus i n e ss a l s o t h , o f a n t is e pt ics f o
e u se r
 T H E B A R BERS MA N U A L
’
. 19

y o u r b r u sh e s c ups a n d s t r o ps I n t h i s ca r e o f t oo l s
, .
,

m u ch n e g l e ct h as b e e n s h o w n a m o n g pas t m e m b e r s
o f t h e f rat e r n i ty o ft e n ti m e s w i t h d i s a s t ro u s re su l ts
,
.

Y o u r p at r o n ag e c a n b e i n c re as e d by st r ic t a t t e n ti o n
t o t h i s o n e i m p o r t a n t f e at u re T h is p r o c e ss s h o u l d
.

b e r e s o r t e d t o as o ft e n as s e e m s n e c e s sa r y . A ft e r
w o r k i n g o v e r a s o r e fac e o r w h at w e m a y t e rm a
,
.

sy ph i l i ti c su bj e ct was h y o u r h a n d s i n a m i l d s ol u
,

t i o n o f B ich lo r id e o f M er cu r y I f y o u h av e n o st e a m
.

s t er i l i z e r y o u r r a z o r s ca n b e d ipp e d o r b o i l e d w it h
,

o u t i n j u r y t o t h e m i n t h e s a m e s ol u t i o n .

S t e a m st e r i l i z e r s a r e m u c h p r e f e r ab l e a n d c a n b e
.

s e cu re d as ch e a p as 7 5 c e n ts P l ac e y o u r m u gs l a t h e r
.
,

b r u s h e s a n d h a i r b r u s h e s i n w at e r a t a t e m p e r a tu r e
,

o f a b o u t 1 5 0 d e g r e e s S t r o ps a l s o m a y b e t r e at e d t h e
.

sa m e w ay a n d aft e r w a r d s o i l e d w i th ca r b o n i z e d vas e
l i n e S t ro p s w i l l n e e d t h i s p ro c e ss v e ry s e l d o m
.
,
.
 T H E BA R B E R S M A N U A I
’

P A R T I II .

H O NI NG AN D S T R O PP I NG .

T he s e qu e l t o a ba rb e r s s ucc ess a s f a r a s sh a v i n g
’

i s c o n c e r n e d l i e s i n h o n i n g a n d st r o pp i n g t h e r a z o r .

T h i s is n o t a g r e at task w h e n p r o p e r i n st r u cti o n s a r e
g iv e n o r w h e n ca r e i s t ak e n t o h o n e at t h e p ro p e r
t i m e o r st r0 p su ffi ci e n t l y w h i l e t h e r a zo r i s i n u s e .

No d e e p a r t o r m y st e r y l i e s i n th i s pa r t o f t h e p ro f e s
s i o n a s m a n y b a r b e r s w h o h av e n e v e r b e e n p ro p e r l v
t augh t a re i n c l i n e d t o b e l i e v e
, Ma n y fi r s t c l a ss
.
-

w o r k m e n g oo d i n e v e r v o th e r pa r t o f t h e w o r k s e l
, ,

d o m h a v e a s h a r p r a zo r a n d aga i n n o b a r b e r h as
, ,

b e c o m e s o p ro fi ci e n t th at a t a ll t i m e s h e h a s h i s ra z o r
s h a r p T h ere are s o m a n y di ffe re n t c o n d i ti o n s of
.

a t m o sph e re h e at a n d c ol d e t c w h i c h eff e ct t h e e d g e
, ,
.
,

o f t h e r a zo r t h a t i t is p ra ctica l l y a n i m p o s sib i l i ty t o
k e e p o n e r a zo r a l w ay s i n c o n d i ti o n b ut th e r e c a n b e ,

n o p l au sib l e e x cu s e f o r a m a n w i th tw o o r t h r e e
r a z o r s n o t h av i n g o n e o f t h e m a l way s w i t h a k e e n

ed g e .

H O N IN L

No wh at h o n e is u s e d h o n i n g i s a l w ay s
m a tt e r ,

d o n e i n t h e sa m e w ay a n d t h e sa m e m e t h o d o f t e st i n g
t h e e dg e i s ap p l i e d b u t w it h e ach sty l e o f h o n e t h e
,

e d g e h as a n e n t i r e l y d iff e r e n t f e e l i n g a n d i t is a l way s

b e st t o b e c bm e a ccu st o m e d t o o n e s t o n e a nd l e a r n t h e
 T H E B AR BERS MANU A L
’
. 21

p e c u l i a r i t i e s o f i ts w o rk N e v e r t r y t o h o n e a r a z o r
.
'

w it h a n ick i n i t n o r w i t h a n e x t re m e l y b l u n t e dg e
,

as it is i m p o ss i b l e t o k e e p a s m oo t h s t ra ig h t e dg e
w h e n i t is n e c e ss a r y t o cu t t h e ra z o r d o w n t o a n y
e x te n t. R a zo r s i n t h is c o n d i ti o n sh o u l d a l w ay s b e
s e n t t o t h e g r i n d e r w it h i n s t r u cti o n s as t o w h a t sty l e
o f g r i n d o r c o n ca v e is r e qu i re d .

I n b e gi n n i n g y o u r w o r k fi r s t p r e pa r e y o u r h o n e
, .

I n u si n g t h e w at e r h o n e e e t h at i t is p e rf e c t l y c l e a n
s

a nd fr e e fr o m d i r t o r g re a s e th e n w e t t h e ru b b e r
,

w it h m o d e r at e l y wa r m w at e r a l s o s e e th a t t he h o n e
,

is n o t e x t r e m e l y c ol d n o r h o t a s t h e t e m p e r atu r e w i ll
,

h av e m u ch t o d o i n d r aw i ng o u t o r e x t e n d i n g t h e
e d g e o f t h e b l ad e . P re pa r e y o u r h o n e w i t h a t h ick
g r i t o r l at h e r by r u b b i n g t h e h o n e p r o p e r w i t h t h e
,

r u bb e r a n d a l way s k e e pi n g i t m o i s t La y t h e r a z o r
.

pe r f e ct l y fla t o n t h e h o n e a n d d r a w t o wa rd t h e e d g e
 T H E B A R B E RS M A N U A I
’

di ag o n a l l y f r o m t h e h e e l t o t h e p o i n t a s sh o w n i n cu t .

T u r n t h e r a z o r o n t h e b ack w i t h o u t l ifti n g i t f r o m
t h e h o n e a n d s l id e i n t o p o si t i o n f o r t h e o t h e r s id e

H ol d t h e r a z o r w i th t h e fi r st fi n g e r o n t h e sh a n k o f
t h e b l ad e i n su c h a w ay a s t o tu r n it f r e e l y i n t h e
h a n d a n d s o t h a t t h e e n t i re l e n gt h o f t h e b l ad e w i ll
,

b e h o n e d a l ik e . I t w i l l re qu i r e s o m e p r a ct ic e t o
b e c o m e h a n dy i n tu r n i n g t h e r a zo r W o r k s lo w l y
.

a n d w ith s o m e ol d u s e l e ss r a zo r u n t i l y o u h av e m a st

e r e d t h e st r o k e . A s l igh t m i st ak e o n t h e h o n e c o u l d
e a si l y r u i n a h igh g r ad e r a zo r .

T e st i n g t h e e dg e o f a r a zo r i s d o n e by w e t ti n g t h e
t h u m b o r fi n g e r n a i l a n d d r awi n g t h e e dg e o f t h e
r a zo r o v e r t h e t h u m b o r n ai l w i th j u st e n o u gh h e ft

t o a llo w i t t o cu t i n o r s l id e o v e r t h e n a i l I f t h e.

r a zo r h as a b l u n t th i ck e d g e i t w i ll s l id e o v e r t h e n ai l
,

w it h o u t cu t ti n g Th i w i l l si g n if y t ha t i t n e e ds
. s

m o re h o n i n g t o b r i n g i t t o t h e p r o p e r c o n d i t i on . If
t h e r a zo r cu ts i n t o t h e n ai l i rr e gu l a r l y w i th a r o u g h
g r a t i n g f e e l i n g th is s ig n i fi e s t h a t t h e r a zo r h as a
r o u gh w i r y e dg e a n d r e q u i r e s m o r e h o n i n g T h e
. .

r a zo r wh e n i n p e r f e ct c o n d i t i o n w i l l d r a w i n t o t h e
n ail w i th a k e e n s m oo t h e dg e .Y o u ca n n o t b e
d e c e i v e d i n t h i s t e s t w h e n v o u b e c o m e s u ffi c i e n t l y
a cq u ai n t e d w i t h t h e e dg e t o d e t e ct t h e di ff e r e n t f e e l
i n gs T h i s t e st s h o u l d b e u s e d o n l v i n h o n i n g a n d
.

n o t i n s t r o ppi n g a s aft e r t h e r a zo r i s s t ro pp e d i t h a s
, ,

a n e n ti r e l y di ff e r e n t f e e l i n g a n d w o u l d s l id e o v e r t h e

n ai l as t h o u gh g r e a s e d .
 T H E BA R BERS MA N U A L
’
. 0
J

[C ;

In u si n g t h e s w a t t y o r l e ath e r h o n e m i x a t h ic k ,

l at h e r a n d a pp l y t o t h e h o n e a l w a y s k e e pi n g i t w e l l
,

m o i s t e n e d w i th t h e s u b s t a n c e .

I t is n o t t o b e su pp o s e d th a t y o u w i ll b e c o m e a
sk i l l fu l h o n e r w i t h o u t t h e n e c e ss a r y p r act ic e a n d
i n s t r u ct i o n a n d m u c h d e p e n ds o n t h e s t r o ppi n g
,

aft e r l e av i n g t h e h o n e A r a zo r w i l l n o t a l w ay s t ak e
.

t h e sa m e s ty l e o f a n e dg e . A s s tat e d i t s o m e t i m e s
,

d e p e n ds o n t h e at m o sph e r e o r h e a t a n d c ol d I f d i ffi .

cu l ty i s m e t w i t h i n g e t t i n g t h e r e qu i r e d e d g e it ,

o ft e n t i m e s i s a b e n e fi t t o l ay t h e r a z o r by f o r a s h o r t
ti m e a n d a l lo w t h e t e m p e r a t u r e t o m ak e t h e ch a n g e .

A t t i m e s fi v e m i n u t es wo r k w i l l d o m o re f or y o u i n
s h a r p e n i n g a r a zo r t h a n a n h o u r a t o t h e r t i m e s .

Th u s y o u w i ll s e e n om a n i s a l wa y s m as t e r o f t h i s a r t .

S T R O PP I N G .

A ft e r a ra zo r i s p r o p e r l y h o n e d it s h o u l d b e
st ro pp e d v e r y l i tt l e i f a n y o n t h e ca n v ass st r0 p I f
, .

a r a zo r s e e m s t o h a v e t ak e n t oo s m oo th a n e dg e i t ,

c a n b e r o ug h e d a l i t t l e w i t h t h e c a n va s s t r 0 p a n d

th e n s m oo t h e d t o t h e p r o p e r c o n d i ti o n o n t h e l e ath e r ,

o r if a r a z o r s e e m s t o b e l e ft a l i tt l e t oo r o u gh by t h e

h o n e i t s o m e t i m e s c a n b e st r o pp e d t o a b e t t e r c o n d i
t i o n o n t h e c a n v as T h e m a i n o bj e ct b e i n g t o b r i n g
.

i t t o t h e k e e n ye t s m oo t h e dg e A r a z o r c a n b e
,
. .

s m oo t h a n d n o t k e e n a n d sh a r p o r c a n b e t oo s m oo th
,
"

b u t n e v e r t oo sh a r p .
24 T H E B A RBERS MAN UA L
’
.

E v e ry b a r b e r has h is p e t ra zo r f o r w i t h th is p a r
,

t i c u l a r o n e h e has l e a r n e d t h e r e qu i re m e n ts i n h o n i n g

a n d st r o ppi n g .Co n sid e ra b l e p r act ic e i s n e c e ss a r y t o

b e c o m e e asy a n d g r ace fu l l n st ro ppi n g T h e r a z o r .

s h o u l d b e h e l d i n su c h a w a y a s t o a l lo w it t o tu r n i n

t h e h a n d e a s i l v a n d a l w ays b e w i p e d o v e r t h e st r o p

p e r f e c t l y fl a t w i t h b ack o f b l ad e as w e l l as e dg e
p l ac e d ti gh t o n t h e l e ath e r Tu r n i t o n t h e back
.

wit h o u t l ift i n g it f r o m t h e st ro p a n d as i n h o n i n g
, ,

d o th i s w o r k s lo w l y a n d ca r e fu ll y u n ti l v o u h av e
b e c o m e p ro fi c i e n t i n t h e m o ti o n T h e b e st c l a ss o f
.

b a rb e r s n e v e r t r v t o p l ay t u n e s w i t h t h e i r r a zo r a n d
‘

s t r o p s as i s o ft e n s e e n a m o n g t h o s e w h o ca re m o r e
,

f o r m ak i n g a s h o w t h a n f o r t h e e dg e o f t h e r a z o r .

M o r e st r o ppi n g is n e ce s a r v w i t h a f r e s h l y h o n e d
s

r a zo r t h a n o n e t h a t h a s s h av e d a h a l f d oz e n b e a rd s .

A r a zo r j u s t o ff f r o m t h e h o n e i s u su a ll y a l it t l e r o u gh
a n d i r r i ta t i n g t o t h e fac e a n d s h o u l d b e fi r st u s e d o n
a l igh t b e a r d I t i s p oo r p o l i c v f o r a ba r b e r t o h o n e
.

u p a ll o f h i s ra zo r s a t o n c e o r e v e n m o r e t h a n o n e at
,

a ti m e f o r it i s n e ce s s a r v t o h av e
, a t l e ast o n e r a z o r
, ,

a l way s r e ady f o r a n y s o r t o f b e a r d th a t c o m e s i n .

I t is s o m e t i m e s g oo d p o l i c v f o r a b a r b e r t o h a v e a
st r o p fi l l e d w i t h e m e r y fl o u r o r r a 7 o r past e W h e n . .

t h e e dg e s b e c o m e t oo s m oo t h a n d v o u h av e n o t i m e
f o r h o n i n g a f e w st ro k e s o n t h e c o a r s e st r0 p w i l l
,

d raw o u t t h e b l u n t e dg e Th is sh o u l d n o t b e p r a o
.

t i c e d o ft e n h o w e v e r a n d o n l v w i th a r a zo r t h a t h a s
, ,

s h av e d f o r t v o r fi f t v m e n w ith o u t h o n i n g .
 T HE BAR BERS MA NUA L .

PAR T IV .

SH A V IN G .

S hav i n g is n a r t P o fi ci e n cy i n t h is w o k c a n
a . r r

n o t b e o bt ai n d w i t h o u t m u ch p act ic e a n d w h i l e y o u
e r ,

w i ll b b n e fi t t e d m u ch by f ol lo w i n g th s e r u l e s
e e e ,

p act i ca l d e m o n s t ra t i o n is t h e m o s t e ss n ti a l gu id e
r e .

I n p r pa i n g a cu st o m e
e r f o r a sh av e fi st t h o r r , r

o u gh l y i n s e t h e b u sh a n d cup wi t h wa m w at t o
r r r er

p re v e n t t h e s p r e ad i n g o f d i s e a s e A th i ck c re a m y .
,

l ath e sh o u l d b e m i x e d j u st s ti ff e n o u gh t o b e
r ,

h a n d l e d n i c l y n t h e fac e I f l ft t oo t h i n it i s apt
e o . e ,

t o n d o w n t h e n e ck o o n t o t h e c oll a
ru rMan y b r r. a

b s s a v i t i s i m p o ssi b l t o l a n v n h o w t o l ath r
er e e r e e e

i n t h e l e n g th o f t i m e u r Coll e g e p o p o s s t o t e ac h
o r e

t h e t ad r n d i t i s v e y t u e t h at s o m e m n d o n t
e, a r r e o

l e a n t h is w o rk w e l l W h i l e th e e i s n ski ll t o b e
r . r o

d isp l ay e d i n l at h e r i n g a b a r b e r m u st a l w ay s b ca re
,
e

fu l n d pai n st ak i n g i n t h i s w o r k T h e b a b e r t h a t
a . r

w i l l n t b t h o u gh tfu l e n o u gh t o d o th is w o k sh o u l d
o e r

n ed n e v
e t o e x p e ct t o c l ai m cu st o m as t h i s i s t h
er , e

fi st i m p e ssi o n m ad e up o n t h e cu st o m e r
r r Th fac e . e

s h o u l d b e l at h e r e d by a pp l y i n g t h e b r u sh i n a i rc c u

lar m o t i o n w h i ch a l lo ws t h e b r u sh t o b re w l ath e o f
,
r

it s e l f T h e b e g i n n e r i s a pt t o h a n d l e t h e l at h e
. r

b u sh as t h e t h e pai n t e r d o e s t h e pa i n t b u sh C a
r r . re
 T H E B A R B E R S MA N U A L
’
. 27

m u st b e t ak e n n o t t o a llo w the l a th e r t o w o r k i n t o t h e
m o u t h n o s e o r e ars
,
.

A ft e r app l y i n g the l a t h er
it l igh t l y i n t o t h e
,
ru b
b e a r d a n d r e m e m b e r t h at w h e t h e r t h e b e a rd b e h a r d
,

o r s o ft l igh t r u bb i n g a n sw e r s t h e sa m e pu r p o s e I t
, .

w i ll b e y o u r fi r st i m p r e ss i o n t h at i f t h e b e a r d i s
,

t h i ck a n d h e a vy i t w i l l re qui re h a rd r u b b i n g B e a r
, .

i n m i n d t h a t e v er y m a n s fac e i s t e n d e r a n d sh o u l d
’
,

b e h a n d l e d ca r e fu ll y .

T h e b e a r d sh o u l d b e r u b b e d f r o m tw o t o t e n m i n
u t e s acc o r d i n g t o t h e g r o w t h o f h a i r Wh e r e t h e
, .

b e a r d i s d i r ty a n d fu ll o f g r i t aft e r th o ro ug h l y r u b
,

bi n g i t t h e l at he r sh o u l d b e w ip e d o ff w ith a w e t
,

t o w e l a n d a n e w c o at o f l a t h e r app l i e d T h is w i l l
, .

o n l y b e n e c e s sa r y i n e x t r e m e ca s e s .

A l w ay s s e e t h at y o u r cu s t o m e r i s i n a n e asy c o m ,

f o r t a b l e p o s i t i o n i n t h e ch a i r a n d d o n o t lo w e r t h e
,

h e ad r e st e o n u g h t o c r a m p t h e p e r s o n s n e ck T h e .

sk i n m u st b e a l way s l e ft loo s e s o t h a t i t c a n b e d r aw n
i n a n y p o si ti o n r e qu i r e d wh i l e u n d e r t h e r a zo r .

Do not o f s t r o ppi n g y o u r a zo
m ak e t h e m i stak e r r

wh e n y o u h av e n o th i n g e l s e t o d o th i n ki n g i t w i ll b e ,

r e ady f o r u s e w h e n y o u h a v e p r e pa r e d t h e b e a r d A .

r a zo r m u st a l way s b e st r o pp e d j u s t b e f o r e u si n g i t .

T h e ph i lo s o ph y o f t h i s is t h e f r i ct i o n i n st r o ppi n g
,

h e ats th e st e e l a n d e x pa n d s it l e av i n g a s m oo t h e ,
r

e dg e t h a n t h e b l ad e n atu r a ll y h a s w h e n c ool Wh i l e .

t h e h e at g iv e n t h e r a z o r is n o t t h e o n l y b e n e fi t i t ,
28 T H E B A R B E RS M A N U A L
’
.

e x pl a i n s t he th e t h e o r y o f st r o ppi n g j u st b e f o re
s h av i n g .

A l w ay s b e gi n t h e s h av e o n t h e r ig h t h a n d s id e ,

d r aw t h e r a zo r d o w n w it h a s l a n t i n g s tro ke a s ,

s h o w n i n cu t T h e r a zo r m u st b e h a n d l e d i n su c h a
.

m a n n e r as t o a llo w i t t o s aw ac r o ss t h e b e a r d i n st e ad

o fp u ll i n g st r ai g h t T h i s m o ti o n is wh a t m ak e s
.

sh a v i n g a n a r t T h e st r o k e wi l l b e f o u n d v e r y d i fli
.

cu l t f o r a b e gi n n e r bu t by study i n g t h i s m o t i o n
,

w h i l e p ra ct i c i n g
. m u c h t i m e w i ll b e sa v e d
,
A ft e r
.

t h e sid e o f t h e fac e h as b e e n s ha v e d as f a r as t h e c o r
n e r o f t h e m o ut h it i s n e c e s sa r y t o u s e w h at w e ca ll
,
 T H E B A R B ERS M A N U A L
'
’
. 29

t he back h a n d e d st ro k e
h a nd as sh o w n i n cu t ,
cu l t t h a n t h e f r e e a r m
. T h i s i s d o n e by t u r n i n g t h e
and i s c o n sid e r e d m o r e d i ffi
m otion . I n o d e r t o m ast e r
r

th is t h e fi r st e x e r cis e i s t o t h ro w
, e l b o w u p n e a rl y

e v e n w i th t h e sh o u l d e r a n d tu r n t h e b ack o f t h e h a n d

d i re ct l y fr o m y o u T h e m ista k e i s u su a ll y m ad e o f
.

c r o wd i n g t h e e l b o w d o w n c l o s e t o t h e sid e o r a llo w
,
30 T H E B A R BERS M A N U AL
’
.

i n g t he t o re st o n t h e cu st o m e r s c h e st t hu s p e r
arm .

m i tt i n g t h e r a z o r t o d r ag i n st e ad o f b e i ng ca rr i e d
w i t h a g l id i n g s t r o k e f ro m p o i n t t o h e e l . Th is
st r o k e is us e d o n t h e s id e o f t h e ch i n a n d w i th t h e
,

s a m e m o t i o n r u n d o w n t o t h e p o i n t o f t h e c h i n tak
,

i n g o ff t h e b a l a n c e o f t h e b e a r d as lo w as t h e j aw
b o n e F ro m t h i s p o i n t t h e f re e a r m m o t i o n i s us e d
.

a ga i n o n t h e sid e o f t h e n e ck as f a r d o w n a s t h e

g r a i n r u n s C a re m u st b e tak e n n o t t o a l lo w t h e
.

r a z o r t o g o aga i n s t t h e g r a i n I n s h av i n g t h e lo w e r
.

pa rt o f t h e n e ck i t w i l l b e n e c e ssa r y f o r y o u t o st e p
,

a r o u n d b e h i n d y o u r ch a i r a n d d r aw t h e ski n u p w i th
t he t h u m b a n d d o w n w it h t h e fi n g e r s as s h o w n i n
-

t h e cu t s o th at i t wi l l b e p e r f e ct l y t i gh t o n t h e pa r t
,

o f t h e n e ck w h ich i s b e i n g sh av e d Y o u a re apt t o
.

m ak e a m i s t a k e b y a llo w i n g y o u r fi n g e r s t o b e c o m e
,
 T H E B A R BER S M A N U A L
’
. 31

d a m p a n d s l i pp e r y a n d h av e d i fi i c u l t y i n d r aw i n g t h e
,
‘

sk i n ti gh t u n d e r y o u r h a n d B e su r e th at y o u r fi n
.

g e r s a r e a l wa y s d r y a n d t h e fac e sh a v e d c l e a n a s f a r
,

as y o u g o n o t a llo w i n g b i ts o f l at h e r t o re m a i n s ca t
,

t e re d o v e r t h e s h a v e d p o r ti o n o f t h e fa c e .

Wh e n t h e sid e o f t h e fac e n e a r e st y o u h as b e e n
s h a v e d tu rn t h e h e ad o n t h e h e ad re st b y l ift i n g i t
,

f r o m u n d e r n e a t h a n d n o t pu sh i n g i t o v e r as t h o u gh
,

h a n d l i n g a b l o ck o f w oo d I n sh av i n g t h e u pp e r
.

pa r t o f t h e fac e o n t h e o pp o s i t e sid e i t is n e c e ssa r y

,

t o u s e t h e b ack h a n d e d m o ti o n a n d ch a n g e t o t h e f r e e
h a n d e d st r o k e i n sh av i n g t h e ch i n Wh e n t h is i s .

c o m p l e t e d tu r n t h e fac e st r a ig h t u p sh av i n g d i r e ct l y
, ,

ac ro ss t h e c h i n w i th t h e d i ag o n a l st ro k e t h e n s h av e ,

u n d e r n e a t h a s f a r d o w n as t h e g r a i n o f t h e h ai r r u n s .

N e x t t u rn t h e fac e t o wa rd y o u a n d s h av e t h e O pp o
,

s it e s id e o f t h e n e ck d o w n w it h th e b ack h a n d e d
s t ro k e k e e pi n g w i th t h e g r a i n S h av e t h e lo w e r pa r t
.

o f t h e n e ck s w as d o n e o n t h e o pp o s i t e S i d e Th is
a .

pa r t o f t h e s h a v e is t h e m ost p a r t icu l a r a n d sh o u l d ,

b e h a n d l e d w i th t h e m o st ca r e .

A ft e r s h a v i n g o n e sid e o f t h e fac e t h e r a zo r ,

sh o u l d b e r e s t r o p p e d o r e v e n o ft e n e r i f i t is n o t gi v
,

i n g sat i sfacti o n I t is w e ll t o ask y o u r cus t o m e r i f

.

t h e r a zo r h u r ts t h e fa c e as a b a r b e r i s n e v e r su r e
,
/
j ust w h a t sa ti sfact i o n h i s w o r k is gi v i n g A r a z o r .

m i g h t b e cu t t i n g t h e b e a r d n ic e l y b u t st i ll r o ugh
,

e n o u g h t o i r r itat e t h e fa c e and t h i s m igh t n o t b e

,

d e t e ct e d b y t h e w o r k m a n .
 T H E B A R B ERS M A N U A L
’
.

c o m p l e ti n g t h e sh a v e t h e fi r st t i m e o v e r
A ft e r .

st r o p ag ai n I n sh av i n g t h e s e c o n d t i m e o v e r w i t h
.
,

a t e n d e r fac e i t , b e st t o tak e t h e t o we l wa h s

t he fac e g e tt i n g a l l t h e s o ap o ff t h e ki n i n o rd e r t o
,
s

p r e v e n t i rr i t ati o n Th i s wi ll b e n e c essa ry o n l y wit h

.

t e n d e r fac e s W e t t h e h a n d by u si n g wa t e r b o t t l e as
‘

s h o w n i n cu t . W e t o n e sid e o f t h e fac e a t a t i m e
 34 T HE B A R B E RS M AN U A L
’
.

ip e d o v e r t h e fac e aga i n st t h e g r a i n B e c a u t i o u s
w .

i n d r y i n g a r o u n d t h e e a r s a n d c o rn e r o f t h e m o u th
a n d b e su r e t o d r y t h e e n t i r e fac e th o ro u gh l y b e f o r e

f a n n i n g i t t o p re v e n t ch appi n g
, A pp l y m ag n e si a o r
.

p o wd e r e it h e r by r ub b i n g t h e t o w e l o v e r t h e l u m p o f
m ag n e s ia a n d app l y i n g t o t h e fac e o r by usi n g t h e
p o wd e r pu ff . L u m p m ag n e s i a i s u su a l l y p r e f e r ab l e ,

t h e n w i p e t h e p o wd er a l l o ff f r o m t h e fac e a s it i s
o n l y ap p l i e d t o gi v e i t a s m oo t h f e e l i n g a n d t o p r e

v e n t a g lo ssy a pp e a r a n c e o f t h e sk i n .

T h is c o n c l ud e s t h e s h a v e p r o p e r b u t aft er s e t t i n g
,

t h e cu st o m e r u p i n t h e ch a i r c o m p l e t e y o u r w o r k by
"

c o m bi n g t h e h a i r cu r l i n g t h e m u sta ch e i f r e qu i re d
, , ,

a n d s u c h d e ta i l s a s t h e cu st o m e r m a y r e qu e st .

Ma n y ol d ba r b e r s m ak e t h e m i stak e o f n o t u si n g
g oo d j udg m e n t i n c o m b i n g . O b s e r v e t h e s ty l e y o u r

cu st o m e r h as b e e n c o m b e d b e f o r e a n d t ry a n d c o m b
,

t h e h a i r a s n e a r l y l ik e i t a s p o s sib l e B y s tudy i n g
.

t h e s e r u l e s ca re fu ll y m u c h t i m e c a n b e sa v e d i n a
t er m o f sch ool i n g b u t s o m e st udy w i l l b e n e c e s sa r y
,

d o g e t t h e fu l l b e n e fi t o f t h e m .
 T H E B A R BE R S MA N U A L
’
. 35

P AR T V .

H A I R C U TT ING
-
.

S kill in h a i cu tt i n g i s a t ta i n e d by a st udy o f s ty l e s
r -

a n d by a n Opp o r tu n i ty f o r c o n st a n t p r a ct ic e No o n e .

c a n b e c o m e a ski ll fu l h a i r cu t t e r w i t h o u t
-
c o n st a n t
att e n ti o n t o t h e w o r k a n d t h e re m u st b e a n o pp o r tu n
i t y f or c o n st a n t p r act ic e H e re i s wh e re t h e g r e a t e s t
.

d i s ad va n tag e i s f o u n d i n t h e ol d s ty l e b a r b e r s h 0 p
a pp re n t ic e sh i p M e n w h o pay f o r a g oo d h ai r cu t o r
.
-

a sh av e n atu r a ll y o bj e ct t o b e i n g m ad e su bj e cts f o r
,

a n o vi c e t o p r a cti c e u p o n c o n s e qu e n t l y t h e st ud e n t
,

w h o h a s n o o n e t o p r act ic e up o n h as n o ch a n c e f o r
a dv a n c e m e n t.

I t u su a l l y r e qu i r e s f ro m tw o t o t h r e e y e a r s t o
b e c o m e p r o fi ci e n t i n t h i s w o rk H o w e v e r t h e sa m e
.
,

t h i n g c a n b e l e a rn e d i n t w o o r t h r e e m o n t h s w i t h t h e
p r o p e r o pp o r t u n i t ie s b e f o r e y o u No o n e c a n l e a r n
.

th is w o r k o r a n y p a r t o f i t b y s e e i n g i t d o n e I t is .

n e c e ss a r y t o app l y y o u rs e l f t o t h is w o r k c o n sta n t l y

u n ti l y o u h a v e t h o ro u gh l y m ast e r e d t h e d i ff e re n t
‘

s ty l e s a n d t h e a r t o f h a n d l i n g t h e s h e a r s a n d c o m b
,

h a v e b e c o m e a s e c o n d n at u re t o y o u T h e r e c a n b e .

a s m u ch g e n iu s disp l ay e d i n t h i s w o r k a s i n t h e w o r k
o f t h e scu l p t o r o r t h e pai n t e r E x p re ss i o n c a n b e
.

d isp l ay e d o n t h e b ack o f t h e h e ad as w e l l a s i n t h e ‘

fac e A s t he scu l pt o r m o u l ds h er e a n d th e r e f o r
.
T H E B A R BE RS M A N U A L
’
.

FU L L C RO W N CUT .
38 T HE B A R B ER S M A N U A L
’
.

t he sh o r t h ai r a t t h e c ro w n a n d o n t h e s id e s o f t h e
h e ad .

I n m ak i n g t h e o u t l i n e s o f t h e h a i r cu t w h ich
-

t he l a st an d m o st
o t ic e ab l e pa r t o f y o u r w o r k ca re
n ,

m u st b e t ak e n t o m ak e t h e l i n e s g r ac e fu l You .

sh o u l d b e gi n a t t h e sid e o f t h e h e ad a n d i n f r o n t o f
 T HE B A R B E RS M A N UA L
’
. 39

t he e ar a n d ou i th e r st ra igh t d o w n t h e b ack o f t h e
t e

n e ck ,o n ea c h sid e o r cu t r o u n d a s t h e cu st o m e r
,

d e si re s A lw ay s a sk y o u r cu st o m e r w h ich sty l e h e
.

p r e f e r s T h e o u t l i n e m ad e by t h e p o i n ts o f t h e
.

s h e a rs s ig n i fi e s t h e l i n e t o w h ich y o u sh o u l d s ha v e
a n d t h i s o u t l i n e sh o u l d b e m ad e t r u e a n d e v e n .

H A LF C R OW N
F o r t h e sty l e k n o w n as t h e h a l f c r o w n c u t c l i p ,

p e r s sh o u l d b e u s e d o n l y h a l f w ay t o t h e c r o w n o f t h e
h e ad o r a l itt l e ab o v e t h e e a r s T h e l i n e l e ft by t h e
.

c l ipp e r s s h o u l d b e s t r a igh t a r o u n d a n d sh o u l d n o t b e
a llo w e d t o r u n d o w n at t h e b a ck o f t h e h e ad as m a n y ,

b a r b e r s d o w i th t h is sty l e o f cu t A ft e r c o m p l e t i n g
.

t h e c l ipp e r w o r k t r i m t h e r e m a i n i n g e dg e s i n t h e
,

sa m e m a n n e r a s i n t h e fu ll c ro w n cu t giv i n g a g r ad ,

u a l t ap e r t o t h e h a i r a n d s o cut ti n g o u t t h e c l i pp e r
,

m a r k t h a t i t c a n n o t b e n o t ic e d h o w h ig h t h e c l i pp e r s
we re u s e d T h e t o p o f t h e h a i r sh o u l d b e cu t i n t h e
.
f

sa m e m a n n e r a s i n t h e c ro w n cu t b u t t h e p r o p e r p ro
,

p o r ti o n m u s t b e m a i n tai n e d I t wi ll b e n e c e ssa r y t o
.

l e av e t h e h a i r a l i tt l e lo n g e r th a n i n t h e fu ll c r o w n
c ut T h e u su a l m i st ak e i n t h is sty l e is i n l e av i n g
.

t h e h a i r t oo bu n ch y a t t h e c r o w n m ak i n g i t app e a r as
t h o u gh a w i g h ad b e e n p l ac e d o n t o p o f t h e h e ad .

S t udy t h e fa sh i o n p l at e f o r t h i s sty l e .

H A I R TR IM .

T h e st y l e t h a t i s k n o w n a s t h e t r i m m a y b e di vid e d
i n t o t h r e e l e n gt h s t h e sh o r t t h e m ed i u m a n d t h e
, ,
 B A R B E RS M A N U A L
'

T
’
H E .

H A L F C RO W N
42 T HE B A R B E RS M A N U A L
’
.

t h i s mist ak e f o r i f b o t h s id e s a r e n o t t r i m m e d e x act l y
,

a l ik e t h e n e x t t i m e t h e h a i r i s pa r t e d if i t is n o t
, , .

pa r t ed i n e x act l y t h e sa m e p l ac e ragg e d e n ds w i l l ,

a pp e a r o n o n e sid e o r t h e o t h e r I n m ak i n g t h e o u t
.

l i n e y o u w i ll fi n d t h e w o rk f o r t h is s ty l e o f a ha i r
,

cu t m o re d i ffi cu l t t h a n with t h e c ro w n o r h a l f c r o w n
cu t .

C O L L EG E C UT .

o
C m b th e h a i r f ro m t h e c ro w n e v e n l y i n a ll d i re c
t i o n s m ak i n g a fa l s e c r o w n a t t h e c e n t e r o f t h e h e ad .

T r i m t h e l o w e r pa r t o f t h e h a i r t h e sa m e as o u t l i n i n g
f o r t h e o rd i n a r y o r m e d i u m t r i m K eep co m b i n g an d
.

t r i m m i n g t h e e dg e u n t i l i t i s p e r f e ct l y e v e n a n d ,

sh o ws n o r agg e d e dg e Th is w i ll a l lo w t h e h a i r a s i t
.
,

c o n ti n u e s t o g r o w t o ha v e a m ass i v e o r b u l ky app e a r
,

a n c e a n d w i l l l e av e i t r o u n d a n d s m oo t h w i t h n o
m a r k s o f t h e sh e a r s t o s h o w . B y t r i m m i n g t h e l o w er
e d g e s y o u s h o r t e n t h e h a i r u n d e r n e a th g ivi n g t h e ,

e ff e cts as sh o w n i n t h e cu ts o n pag e s 43 a n d 4 4 .

I t m a y b e t r i m m e d w it h t h e E n g l is h b a n g a s
s h o w n i n t h e s id e v i e w o r a s t h e o rd i n a r y t r i m T h e .

h ai r w h e n c o m b e d s t r a igh t d o w n f r o m t h e f o re h e ad
, ,

m u st b e t r i m m e d e v e n w i t h t h e lo w e r e dg e .

P O M P A D O U R H A I R C UT -
.

Th i s sty l e i s l i tt l e w o rn n o w bu t n o b a r b e r c a n
,

ca l l h i m s e l f p r o fi ci e n t wi t h o u t h av i n g m ast e re d th i s
p a r ti c u l a r s t y l e Th e r e w a s a t i m e w h e n i t w a s c o n
.
 B A R BE R s
’
MAN UA L .
43

—S ID E
C OL L EG E C UT
44 . . T H E BA R BER s
r
’
MANUAL .

C O LL EG E CU T — BA CK V IEW .
46 THE B A R B E RS
’
M A N UA L .

PAR T VI .

B E A R D T R I M M I NG .

V AN D Y K E B EA R D .

In mos t cas e s t h e b e a r d is t r i m m e d s h o r t u si n g
, ,

t h e c l i pp e r s t o t h e c o r n e r o f t h e m o u th l e av i n g o n l y ,

t h e c h i n u n c l i pp ed . N e x t t r i m w i t h t h e s h e a rs th e n ,

c o m b t h e e dg e o f t h e b e a rd w h i ch re m a i n s aft e r t h e
u s e o f t h e c l i p p e r a n d g r adu a l l y w o r k t o a p o i n t f u n
'

n e l s h a p e d a t t h e p o i n t o f t h e ch i n G r e at ca re m u st
.

b e t ak e n t o h a v e t h e w o r k s m oo t h u n d e r n e ath t h e
c hin ,
s o t h at t h e b e a r d w h e n t h e h e ad i s i n a n u p
,

r igh t p o s it i o n w i ll s h o w n o r agg e d e dg e s a t t h e b o t

tom . Y o u s h o u l d a l way s b e cau t i o u s ab o u t t r i m m i n g

n e a r t h e e dg e o f t h e u n d e r l ip as t h e h a i r u su a ll y
,

g r o ws th i n o n t h at pa r t o f t h e fa c e a n d a v e,
r y l i t t l e

t r i m m i n g w i ll sh o w t h e b a re sp o ts .

I n o rd e r t o h a v e t h e p o i n t e x act l y i n t h e c e n t e r i t
i s n e c e ss a r y t o t r i m o n b o t h sid e s fi r st o n t h e o n e
,

a n d t h e n o n t he o t h er ,a n d y o u m u s t n o t fi n i sh o n e

s id e b e f o r e b e g i n n i n g o n t h e o t h er I n cas e t h e cu s
.

t o m er d o e s n o t w a n t t he s id e o f t h e fa c e a n d n e ck
c l ip p e d t r i m c lo s e l y w i th t h e sh e a r s l e avi n g t h e
, ,

s a m e l e n gt h o f b e a r d a n d gi v i n g n o p r o p o r t i o n u n ti l
y o u r e ach t h e c o r n e r o f t h e m o u t h t h e n t r i m it t o a
,

p o i n t t h e s a m e a s w h e n c l ipp e r s a re us e d T h is is a .
 BAR '
S M A NU A L 47
T H E BE R .

T H E V AN D Y K E BE A R D .
 48 T HE B A R B ER S M A N U A L
’
.

bu si n e ss o r p rof e ss i o n a l m a n s b e a r d t r i m o ft e n ’

”
c a ll e d t h e N a p ol e o n a n d y o u sh o u l d b e cau t i o u s i n
“
,
,

ad o pt i n g it f o r t h e m i n ist e r o r e l d e r l y g e n t l e m e n .

TH E PA RTE D BEA R D . .

T h is sty l e o f b e a rd i s l it t l e w o rn n o w aday s bu t ,

t h o s e w h o p o ss e s s a p a rt e d b e a rd l ik e t h o s e w h o w e a r
‘

t h e p o m pad o u r h ai r cu t a re pa r ti cu l a r ab o u t i t s
-

app e a r a n c e I t i s o n e o f t h e m o st d i ffi cu l t t r i m s i n
.

t h e b a r b e r bu si n e ss .

T h e b e a rd sh o u l d fi r s t b e pa r t e d i n t h e c e n t e r a n d
c o m b e d o u t t o w a r d e a ch s id e T h e h a i r sh o u l d t h e n
.

b e t r i m m e d c l o s e l y o n t h e n e ck e i th e r w i t h t h e sh e a r s
o r w i t h t h e c l ipp e r s a n d g r adu a l l y tap e r t o t h e lo n
, ger
h ai r o n t h e s id e s o f t h e fac e T h i s b e a rd i s d i r e ct l y
.

o pp o si t e t o t h e V a n D y k e a n d is m e a n t t o b ro ad en
’

t h e e x p re s si o n o f t h e fac e a n d n o t t o l e n gt h e n i t
’

T h e b e a r d o n t h e sid e o f t h e fac e sh o u l d u su a l l y
b e t r i m m e d d o w n u n t i l i t i s ab ou t h a l f a n i n ch lo n g
u n ti l n e a r t h e ch i n w h e r e it sh o u l d g r o w lo n g e r a s i n
,

t h e cu t . I n a n y sty l e o f b e a r d t r i m ca r e m u st b e ,

tak e n t o h av e t h e h a i r t r i m m e d c lo s e l y o n t h e n e ck .

M o r e w o r k i s n e c e ssa r y o n t h is s ty l e o f t r i m t h a n t h e
o rd i n a r y h a i r cu t a n d th i s i s a pa r t o f t h e w o rk t h at
-

y o u r e c e iv e t h e l e ast p r acti c e o n F e w b a r b e r s a r e .

e x p e r t b e a rd t r i m m e r s T h e C oll e g e o ff e r s a s p l e n
.

d id o pp o r t u n ity f o r p r acti c e i n t h is w o rk as w e ll as
a ll o th e r s .
 THE B A R B E RS M A N U A L
’
.

OT H E R T R IM S .

T h ere m an y o th e r sty l e s of w e a r i n g t h e b e a rd
”
are

s u ch a s t h e
“
M u tt o n C h o ps ch i n w h i sk e r s e t c No
, ,
.

s k i ll is r e qu i r e d i n t r i m m i n g th e s e a n d t h e o n l y ca r e
,

n e c e ss a r y m us t b e di s p l ay e d i n b lo ck i n g o u t a n e w

b e a rd g e tt i n g b o t h s id e s e v e n a n d a l way s f ollo wi n g
,

t h e d i r e c t i o n s o f y o u r cu s t o m e r as th e r e a r e as m a n y
sty l e s i n b lo ck i n g o u t w h i sk e r s as y o u h av e cu st o m
e r s t o w ai t u p o n
 THE B A R B E R S MA N U A L
’
.

P AR T V II .

S HAMPO O .

T h e r e a re v a r i o us m e th o ds o f sh a m p oo i n g ai ,

th o u gh a l l a r e p r act ica ll y t h e sa m e i n t h e e n d T h e
, .

o n l y di ff e re n c e b e i n g i n t h e su bsta n c e o r m at e r i a l
u e d i n g i v i n g t h e sh a m p oo T h e m at e r i a l m o st f a
'
~
s . v

o re d n o w is sh a m p oo j e ll y I t is a su b sta n c e w h i ch
.

f o a m s re ad i l y i s m i l d c l e a n s i n g a n d h e a l th fu l t o
, , ,

t he s c al p .

I n p re pa r i n g f o r t h e s h a m p oo p l ac e a t o w e l ab o v e
,

t h e h a i r c lo t h
-

, b o t h i n f ro n t a n d b a ck t o p re v e n t
,

w e tt i n g t h e cu st o m e r s c ol l a r a n d c lo th e s A b o u t a
’
.
52 T H E B A R B E RS M AN U A L ’
.

th i m b l e fu l o f t h e sh a m p oo j e l l y i s su ffi c i e n t f o r a n
o r d i n a r y s h a m p oo Tak e t h e s h a m p oo j e ll y i n t h e
.

l e ft h a n d a n d t h e w at e r b o t t l e i n t h e r igh t h a n d app l y ,

w at e r a n d r u b t h e sh a m p oo i n t o t h e h ai r T h i s p ro .

du c e s a l i g h t l at h e r a n d w h e n su ffi ci e n t w at e r h as b e e n
u s e d t o c h a n g e t h e j e ll y t o a l at h e r s e t t h e b o t t l e d o w n
,

a n d r u b w it h b o t h h a n ds as i n cu t A v o id r u bb i n g wi th
.

b o t h h a n ds i n t h e s a m e d i r e ct i o n a t t h e s a m e t i m e a s
th is w o u l d b e u n c o m f o r tab l e f or t h e cust o m e r L e t .

e ach h a n d o p e r a t e O pp o sit e t o t h e o t h e r R u b with .

t h e b a ll s o f t h e fi n g e r s a n d d o n o t sc r at ch t h e sca l p
w i th t h e fi n g e r n a i l s R u b h a r d o r l ig h t as su it s t h e
.

cu st o m e r usu a ll y r u b bi n g t h e sca l p ab o u t fi v e o r t e n
,

m i n u t e s t h e n p r e pa r e t h e s h a m p o o sta n d a n d b o w l
,
.

R e g u l at e t h e t e m p e r a t u re o f t h e w a t e r b e f o r e g e t
t i n g y o u r cu st o m e r o v e r t h e sh a m p oo b o w l W h e re .

y o u h av e n o w a t e r c o n n e ct i o n s p r o c u r e a su ffi ci e n t
a m o u n t o f wa t e r at t h e p ro p er t e m p e r a tu r e (l uk e ,

w a r m ) i n s o m e c o n v e n i e n t di sh i n o rd e r t o p o u r o v e r
t h e h e ad Wh e n e v e r yt h i n g is i n r e ad i n e ss h av e
.
,

y o u r cu st o m e r st e p f r o m t h e ch a i r t o t h e sh a m p oo
s ta n d , a n d f o r c e h i m t o l e a n o v e r f a r e n o ugh s o th at

t h e w at e r w i ll n o t r u n d o w n h i s n e ck w h i l e w as h i n g
'
,

t h e l a th e r f r o m t h e h e ad S e e th at t h e s o ap i s t h o r
.

o u g h l y r i n s e d f r o m t h e h ai r a n d th at t h e sca l p is w e ll
c l e a n s e d A v o id l e t ti n g y o u r cu st o m er r ai s e h i s h e ad
.

u p as s oo n as y o u h a v e c o m p l e t e d p o u r i n g" o n w at e r

or u si n g h
t e sp r ay
— CJ S h—
a k
. e t h e w a
m
t e r i
~
o u tZ
_
O f t h e h ai r
— i Qm

a s m u ch as p o ssi b l e b e for e u s i ng t h e t o w e l s th e n d ry
w f ’ ra p W h p
“

,
56 T H E BAR BE Rs
’
MA N UAL .

h ai r s i n g e o v e r t h e c o m b a s i n cu t Wh e re t h e ha i r
,
.

is lo n g s i n g e o v e r t h e fi n g e rs t h e sa m e as i n cu tt i n g
,

lo n g h a i r T h i s w o r k i s v e r y s i m p l e aft e r y o u h av e
.

l e a rn e d t o t r i m st i ll i t i s a v e ry i m p o r ta n t and n ece s
,

sa r y qu a l i fi ca t i o n f o r t h e ba r b e r T h e m o st p ai n s
.

sh o u l d b e tak e n a ro u n d t h e c ro w n a n d f o r e h e ad a s
t h e s e a re t h e pa r t s w h e re t h e h ai r is apt t o fa l l o u t
 TH E B A R B E RS M A N U A L
’
. 57

an d ds t h e m o st st r e n gt h e n i n g I n s i n g e i n g t he
nee .

back o f t h e n e ck u s e t h e c o m b ab o v e t h e b l a z e t o
,

pre v e n t t h e fi r e f r o m r u n n i n g up a n d catc hi n g t h e
hai r ab o v e t h e si n g e r Th i s is t h e o n l y d iffi cu l t pa r t
.

of s i n g e i n g .

DY E I NG H A I R .

T he d iffe re n t f o r m u l as a n d p r e pa r a ti o n s f o r d y e
i n g h a i r a r e n u m e r o us a l t h o u gh th er e is bu t o n e
, ,

ki n d u s e d t o a n y e x t e n t by t h e b a r b e r Th is i s
'

ca ll e d D y e No 1 a n d No 2 ca ll e d s o f r o m t h e fact
. .
,

th at it i s i n tw o pa rt s o r tw o b o t t l e s l ab e l l e d No 1 .

a nd 2 T h is is t h e o n l y i n st a n ta n e o u s d y e w e h av e
.

and f o r t h i s r e as o n i s t h e o n e p r e f e rr e d by t h e b a r
ber . I t is s e l d o m us e d i n dy e i n g t h e e n t i r e h a i r o r
wh isk e r s bu t is t h e u n i v e r sa l app l ica t i o n f o r t h e
,

m u stach e D y e i n g t h e m u stac h e i s bu t l i tt l e p r a e
.

ti c e d n o w aday s bu t i t i s v e r y i m p o r t a n t th at t h e
,

ba rb e r s h o u l d k n o w h o w f o r s e rvi n g cust o m e r s wit h

,

th i s pa r t o f t h e w o r k l e ads t o o t h e r t r ad e .

In dy e i n g n o m a tt e r w ha t ki n d o f d y e is u s e d
, ,

fi r st th o r o u gh l y c l e a n t h e h a i r o r m u st ac h e S ea .

f o a m i s t h e b e s t t o u s e f o r t hi s pu r p o s e as i t d r i e s
qu ick e st A ft e r t h e h ai r is th o r o u gh l y c l e a n e d app l y
.

No 1 e it h e r w i t h t h e fi n g e rs o r t oo t h b r u s h No 1 s i m
.
, . .

p l y p r e pa re s t h e h ai r f o r t h e d y e a n d d o e s n o t c olo r o r
aff e ct t h e sk i n A ft e r d r y i n g No 1 by fa n n i n g (n o t
. .
_
 '
1 HE fi A R B E RS Nl A N U R I

PR I C E S .

T oo o ft e n t h e m ist ak e is m ad e by b e g i n n e rs i n
t h is w o rk wh o th i n k th e y w i ll o b ta i n m o r e p r a ct ic e
,

a n d as g oo d p ro fi ts by c ut ti n g p r ic e s No g r e a t e r
,
.

e r r o r c o u l d b e m ad e a n d t h e w r it e r w o u l d adv is e a n y

m a n c o n t e m p l at i n g th i s p ro f e s si o n a s a l if e w o r k t o
a b a n d o n t h e id e a e n t i re l y i f t h e r e gu l at i o n p r i c e s
c a n n o t b e had N e a r l y a n y l i n e o f d ay l ab o r w i ll b e
.

f o u n d as l u c r ati v e as ch e a p ba r b e r w o r k if n o t qu i t e ,

as e asy Y o u r t i m e a n d m o n e y sp e n t i n m a s t e r i hg
.

th is p ro f e s si o n is pu t t i n g y o u i n p o ss e ssi o n o f a s e r
v i c e a b l e t r ad e a n d y o u r p l ac e ca n n o t b e fi l l e d by t h e

o r d i n a ry l a b o re r I t is o n e t h at c o m m a n ds a n d
.

r e c e iv e s g oo d p r ic e s f o r g oo d s e r v ic e s a n d n o o n e
,

w i ll b e b e n e fi t t e d by i n f e r i o r w o rk at cu t r at e s .

T h e av e r ag e p r ic e s f o r b a r b e r i n g a r e as f ollo w s
H ai r cu t ti n g
-

, 25 0 ; B e a rd T ri m m i n g 2 5 0 ; .

H on in g R a z ors . 25 0 ; S ha m p oo 25 0 ;
S in ge 25 0 Mu stach e D y e 250 ;
S h av e 100 ; S ea fo am -
1 00 .

D y e i n g t h e e n t i re h e ad o f h a i r sh o u l d b e cha r g e d
’

f o r a cc o r d i n g t o t h e l e n gt h o f t h e h ai r a n d m a t e r i a l
r eq u i re d f o r d o i n g i t u su a l l y f r o m
, to i s

t h e re gu l ati o n p r i c e f o r h a i r o r w h i sk e r s .

I n giv i n g a s h a v e w h e r e i t i s r e qu e st e d th a t t h e
b a ck o f t h e n e ck b e s h av e d i t i s us u a ll y cu st o m a r y t o
c h arge fi v e c e n t s e x tr a .F or t h e s e pr i ce s t he b e s t
b r a n ds o f c o s m e t ics sh o u l d b e u s e d .
 LI BRARY OF CONGRES S

T HE B AR BERS ’
l
0 0 14 084
F O R M U LA
‘

S .

H A I R T ON IC (B A LD N E ss ) .

T i n ct . cap s i u m .

Wat er a m m o n i a (I O p e r
P i l o ca r p i n e h yd r o ch lo r at e
U se on sca l p tw ic e a d ay .

H AIR T O N IC .

T r . C a n t h a rid e s
Li q .A m m o n ia

Gl y c e r i n e .

B ay R u m

R E M EDY FO R DA ND RUF F .

R eso rc i n . 1 0 p a rt5 to
C astor o i l .
45 p a r t
A l c o h ol 1 5 0 pa r t
B a l sa m o f P e r u pa r t .

R u b i n d ai l y w i t h a p i e c e o f fl a n n e l .

HAIR DYE .

No I . .

No . 2 .

S i l v e r n i t r at e I di
A m m o n ia 3 d r

Gu m a r a b ic 3 0 g r

6d r

D is s ol v e t he si l v e r n it r a t e i n t h e a m m o n i a
g m
u a r a b ic in t h e w at e r . T hen m i x .