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Contents02
Introduction03
Basics of Korean Skin Care 04
Identifying Your Skin Type 10
Skincare Goals 13
Active Ingredients 14
2
Introduction
With caked and heavy makeup going out of style, natural beauty has never been more coveted. Known for their dewy, glassy, and glowing
skin, Korean celebrities have mastered the multi-step skincare routine to achieve smooth and clear skin that needs minimal makeup
while looking beautiful and natural. Each step in the routine helps to replenish and rejuvenate the skin through hydration and treatment
with different active ingredients. On top of nourishing your skin, a skincare routine is also about the amazing experience—a moment of
the day where you can pamper and treat yourself. reasons aside, the skin is the largest organ in the body and needs an immense amount
of care to maintain its appearance and function. Creating a skincare routine will help protect your skin from external factors, replenish
its nutrients, and keep the skin youthful for longer. With a well-developed and planned-out routine, your skin will look livelier and
healthier, and who knows? Maybe you will look a couple years younger!
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The Basics of Korean Skincare
A developed skin care routine can range from seven to ten steps, with variations for
different seasons and time of day. Although, if you are a Korean skincare novice, a
simpler and more general routine with four steps is recommended so you do not
overwhelm yourself. More experienced enthusiasts may include more advanced
steps in their routine with different variations considering environmental factors
and their skin conditions. In addition, if you are just starting your skincare regimen,
note that it may take at least a couple weeks before you see changes in your skin.
The steps in a Korean skincare routine are focused on deep cleansing, exfoliation,
hydration, treatment, and protection. The general order and steps to a routine are
described on the next pages with a description of each step, the level of “difficulty,”
along with application instructions that you can refer back to once you have built
your skincare routine. The bare minimum, essential steps are marked with a star
(*) as a starting point for beginners. Remember that not all steps are necessary,
and the order is not set in stone; as we will later discuss, some chemicals and
formulations may be more effective in a different order than listed.
Instructions: A cleansing oil or balm is mainly used at night to clean the dirt that has accumulated throughout
the day. First, warm the balm or oil in the hands until it is more fluid or emulsified. Then, apply the fluid onto
the face, gently massaging the skin to dislodge the impurities. Afterwards, wash off the oil with warm water.
2. Foaming Cleansers*
A foaming cleanser will wash off the all the dirt that has accumulated on the face throughout the day and the
residual product from using a cleansing balm or oil. A good and gentle cleanser will usually leave the skin
feeling clean but not stripped of natural oils. If your skin feels tight, rubbery, or irritated, the cleanser is too
harsh.
Instructions: Foam the cleanser by wetting it with warm water, and gently massage onto the face. Then rinse
off the foam with warm water. Gently pat the skin with a towel.
1 Bruice, P. Y. Organic Chemistry, Eighth Edition. Upper Saddle River, NJ, Pearson Education, Inc., 2015.
5. Essence 6. Serums
An essence, like a toner, hydrates the skin so other products Each containing different active ingredients, serums are
can be absorbed more easily; like a sponge, the skin better concentrated formulations of usually one active ingredient
absorbs fluids when wet. The only difference is that an and are used to treat the skin for different conditions.
essence is more lightweight and is specifically used to Be sure to reference the Active Ingredients section of
prepare the skin for the next following products so you can the guide to check out which active ingredients can or
reap the full benefits of active ingredients. cannot be used together and also read the instructions
on the product label for any other precautions. Apply up
Instructions: When applying, first warm the essence and to three serums in one sitting, starting with the thinnest
massage it gently, without the essence getting absorbed, formulation to the more viscous.
within the hands. Then, gently pat into the skin to help
absorption. The next few products should be applied when Instructions: Generally, apply a coat of one serum at a time
the essence is barely but sufficiently dampening the skin. onto the skin. Make sure that each coat dries and absorbs
sufficiently before applying the next. The absorption
varies for every serum because of varying formulations;
in some cases, you may need to wait 20-30 minutes before
applying the next product.
7. Facemasks
There are many different types of facemasks on the market, and most contain
multiple active ingredients and are advertised with specific goals in mind:
brightening, moisturizing, pore reducing, etc). Facemasks can also come
in different mediums—sheet masks, clay masks, rice masks, etc.—
though this guide will only be focusing on sheet masks, which do
not require rinsing.
8
Finishing Touches
The final steps in a Korean skincare routine are to lock in all the layers you just applied and to put on a final layer
of hydration and protection for your skin. You have made it to the end!
8. Moisturizer*
A creamy moisturizer is essential both morning and evening as a final and more durable layer of hydration to
keep your skin moisturized for longer. If areas of your skin are prone to pore clogging, be sure to use a non-
comedogenic moisturizer or a lighter moisturizer or hydrating toner.
Instructions: Warm the moisturizer in your hands first, and apply a layer of moisturizer on the skin, focusing on
the dryer patches.
9. Eye cream
Some like to apply an eye cream at night to help plump the skin around the eyes to hide wrinkles.
Instructions: Warm the eye cream with your fingers and apply gently on the orbital bone (the round bone around
the eyes), without tugging the skin.
10. Sunscreen*
Most skin damage aging is due to ultraviolet (UV) exposure from being out in the sun unprotected. Common
effects of photoaging include wrinkling, uneven pigmentation, and collagen reduction. Therefore, in the morning,
remember to apply a sunscreen with at least an SPF of 30 and broad-spectrum protection to protect your skin
from sun damage.1 Reapply every two hours or according to the instructions on your sunscreen.
Instructions: Apply sunscreen to any exposed skin on your body. Fun fact, it takes about a shot glass full of
sunscreen to fully cover the body of an adult. It is always better to use a little more than less!
Normal
Rather rare nowadays, normal skin is identified by skin that is well-balanced—not
too dry and not too oily—with a smooth texture, fine pores, little blemishes, and
uniform color. Overall, the skin is able to produce just enough sebum, or oil, to keep
the skin moisturized, but not enough to clog pores and cause acne. In addition,
normal skin is not easily irritated but may become dryer with age.
Oily
If your skin is prone to acne, has larger pores, and frequently becomes glossy, you may have
oily skin. Oily skin is caused by the over production of sebum, which may be triggered by
hormonal changes, stress, and cosmetic products. As a result, sebum clogs the pores and
leads to the development of acne, whether it be closed comedones (white heads) or open
comedones (black heads).1
1 Eucerin. “About Skin: Skin Types and Conditions.” Eucerin, Eucerin, 24 June 2018, int.eucerin.com/about-
skin/basic-skin-knowledge/skin-types.
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Dry
Though there is a range of how dry “dry skin” is, it is most commonly characterized
by low moisture, tight, rough, and dull skin. In more severe cases, the skin can
become flakey, calloused, “scaley,” and itchy. On the other hand, if the skin is
dry, sensitive, and red, you may have an underlying skin condition (i.e. eczema,
psoriasis, etc.), and it would be best to consult a doctor first on skin products.
People with dry skin lack necessary lipids (i.e. ceramides, fatty acids, cholesterol,
etc.) in the skin and have lower sebum production, and as a result, the skin has
difficulty retaining moisture.
Combination
Combination skin is commonly characterized by an oily T-zone—the forehead
and nose—with dry or normal cheeks. In the T-zone, sebum is over-produced
causing the skin to be acne-prone, and the cheeks have lower sebum production.
Sensitive
Though not necessarily a skin type, skin sensitivity is an important factor in
creating your skin care routine. If your skin is easily irritated by certain chemicals or
environmental conditions, it is preferable to avoid those chemicals and find products
that protect your skin from external factors.
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Normal skin is: Oily skin is:
Smooth Acne-prone
Blemish-free Glossy or shiny
Well-balanced Susceptible to larger
Uniform in color pores
(Good blood
circulation) Combination skin is:
Oily in the T-zone
Dry skin is: Normal or dry in the
Rough cheeks
Dull
Tight Sensitive skin is:
Easily irritated
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Skincare Goal
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Active Ingredients
The active ingredients in a skincare routine are responsible for transforming your skin. There are a myriad of skin care
chemicals and active ingredients that are not all discussed in this guide, or else this guide would be endless. Therefore, the
most popular and essential active ingredients are discussed, with details on the chemical’s benefits, formulations, precautions,
or recommended usage.
Vitamin A – Retinoids
Retinoids are the superfood of the active ingredients in skincare products. To reduce acne and (or even reverse) the effects of
sun damage, different derivatives of vitamin A called retinoids can be applied topically to the skin. Common derivatives of
vitamin A, ordered from most potent and bioactive to least are trans-retinoic acid (tretinoin), retinol, retinyl esters (retinyl
palmitate and acetate), and retinal. First discovered for acne treatment, retinoids increase skin turnover rates, disperses
melanin to reduce hyperpigmentation, increases skin smoothness, and increases collagen production to reduce fine lines and
wrinkles and strengthen the skin.1 Retinoids may also prevent UV damage, but many formulations are UV sensitive, meaning
that sunscreen should be applied when retinoids are used in a skincare routine.
Tretinoin is the strongest and most commonly used and prescribed retinoid, with evidence that users experience thicker
and tighter outer skin with decreased melanin after months of usage. The most effective formulations of tretinoin are 0.05%,
0.025%, and 0.01%. For new users, a 0.025% tretinoin formulation is recommended. At the start of a retinoid treatment, a
common side effect is called retinoid dermatitis, which is characterized by itchy skin, redness, dryness, and scaling.2 Retinoid
dermatitis is directly related to the concentration of the retinoid you are using and how frequently you use retinoids. For
example, a study with 533 subjects showed that a 0.025% tretinoin produces the same benefits as 0.05% tretinoin but with
less irritation.3 Therefore, if you experience adverse side effects, find a formulation with a lower tretinoin concentration, and
reduce usage to 2-3 times a week.
1 Boswell, C. B. Skincare Science: Update on Topical Retinoids. Aesthetic Surgery Journal, vol. 26, no. 2, Mar. 2006, pp. 233–239, https://academic.
oup.com/asj/article/26/2/233/219113, 10.1016/j.asj.2006.02.003.
2 Angelo, Giana. “Vitamin A and Skin Health.” Linus Pauling Institute, Oregon State University, 2 Jan. 2019, lpi.oregonstate.edu/mic/health-dis-
ease/skin-health/vitamin-A.
3 Bhawan, J, et al. “Effects of Tretinoin on Photodamaged Skin. A Histologic Study.” Archives of Dermatology, U.S. National Library of Medicine,
May 1991, www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/2024984.
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Vitamin B - Niacinamide
Niacinamide, a water-soluble vitamin B3 compound, has many benefits for the skin and can be used to treat a variety of
skin conditions, including rosacea, acne, and hyperpigmentation. However, the compound is not naturally produced in our
bodies; we must ingest niacinamide through our diet or apply it topically onto our skin.1 Major benefits of niacinamide are to
increase hydration and moisture retention through skin barrier strengthening, reduce oil production, “boost cell turnover and
circulation,” decrease inflammation, regulate hyperpigmentation, increase collagen production, and reduce wrinkles.2
A common and safe formulation is a 5% niacinamide product, which is shown to be effective while causing little to no irritation.
In a skincare routine, niacinamide can be used both in the morning and nighttime with no adverse effects. In addition,
niacinamide does not react with other popular active ingredients, like alpha hydroxy acids, peptides, vitamin C, and retinoids,
and therefore, can be used in conjunction with many these ingredients.
1 Kawada, Akira, et al. “Evaluation of Anti-Wrinkle Effects of a Novel Cosmetic Containing Niacinamide.” The Journal of Dermatology, U.S. Nation-
al Library of Medicine, Oct. 2008, www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/19017042.
2 Can Niacinamide Improve Your Skin? Benefits, Recommended Products. Zwivel, 14 Mar. 2019, www.zwivel.com/blog/what-is-niacinamide/
1 Kessler, M, et al. Free Radical Scavenging and Skin Penetration of Troxerutin and Vitamin Derivatives. Journal of Dermatological Treatment, vol.
13, no. 3, Jan. 2002, pp. 133–141, 10.1080/09546630260199505.
2 “How Does Vitamin C Help Skin?”, Paula's Choice, www.paulaschoice.com/expert-advice/skincare-advice/anti-aging-wrinkles/how-does-vitamin-
c-help-skin.html.
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Vitamin C– (L-Ascorbic Acid)
Some caveats for vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid) products are that its effectiveness is dependent on the pH of the skin, it is
unstable in aqueous solution, and vitamin C solutions degrade quickly in the presence of air, heat, and light.1 As a result,
vitamin C serums are stored in dark bottles, are recommended to be applied after using a low pH cleanser or an acidic
exfoliator, and are suggested to be used in tandem with a sunscreen.2 There are other oil-soluble, stable derivatives of
vitamin C—ascorbate phosphate, ascorbyl palmitate, etc.—though they are less effective. Research has shown that no side
effects were observed in human studies for formulations of 0.6% - 10% of vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid and derivatives). In
addition, the maximal absorption of vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid) occurs at a concentration of 20% in solution; any more
would be excessive. Though, it is recommended to start at lower concentrations of vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid) and apply
2-3 times a week to reduce irritation.3
1 Michels, Alexander J. “Vitamin C and Skin Health.” Linus Pauling Institute, Oregon State University, 6 Sept. 2019, lpi.oregonstate.edu/mic/
health-disease/skin-health/vitamin-C.
2 Pinnell SR, Yang H, Omar M, et al. Topical L-ascorbic acid: percutaneous absorption studies. Dermatol Surg 2001;27:137-142. (PubMed)
3 Campos PM, Goncalves GM, Gaspar LR. In vitro antioxidant activity and in vivo efficacy of topical formulations containing vitamin C and its
derivatives studied by non-invasive methods. Skin Res Technol 2008;14:376-380
Peptides
A bioactive peptide is an umbrella term for different chains of amino acids that are produced by the skin or applied
topically to help with collagen production, photoprotection, hyperpigmentation, and skin lightening.1 There are many
types of peptides, and every peptide skincare product will contain different peptide variants. Therefore, the effects on
the skin depend on the formulation, and it is best to read the product label to learn more about the skin benefits. Peptide
skin products generally do not cause irritation and can be used frequently in morning and evening routines, though their
activity may be affected by other active ingredients. For example, The Ordinary’s peptide solution is recommended to not
be used with acids (Vitamin C, AHA/BHA).2
1 Angelo, Giana. “Peptides and Skin Health.” Linus Pauling Institute, Oregon State University, 2 Jan. 2019, lpi.oregonstate.edu/mic/health-dis-
ease/skin-health/peptides.
2 “Buffet - Multi-Technology Peptide Serum.” The Ordinary, Deceim.
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Alpha Arbutin (Hydroquinone)
Sun exposure causes an increased productive of melanin by the skin, which causes skin darkening or hyperpigmentation.
Alpha arbutin is able to inhibit the enzyme that helps produce melanin and decreases the amount of melanin in the skin,
which suggests that alpha arbutin is a good skin whitening agent.1 It is most commonly found in 2% formulations over the
counter, but it is most effective at a prescription strength of 4% or higher.
Although alpha arbutin may help you achieve lighter skin, melanin is produced in the skin to protect the body from
UV damage. Because alpha arbutin reduces melanin in the skin, be sure to apply sunscreen to protect the skin. Other
precautions to note, long term use of alpha arbutin may cause ochronosis in people with darker skinner, which is when the
skin develops uneven blue and black patterns. Therefore, use alpha arbutin with restraint even though it is FDA approved.2
1 Lim, Yu-Ji, et al. Inhibitory Effects of Arbutin on Melanin Biosynthesis of α-Melanocyte Stimulating Hormone-Induced Hyperpigmentation
in Cultured Brownish Guinea Pig Skin Tissues. Archives of Pharmacal Research, vol. 32, no. 3, Mar. 2009, pp. 367–373, 10.1007/s12272-009-
1309-8.
2 McCommon, Samuel. “Skin Bleaching Products: How They Work, Side Effects and Risks.” Zwivel, 3 June 2019, www.zwivel.com/blog/
skin-bleaching-products/.
Alpha and Beta Hydroxy Acids (AHA/BHA)
Both alpha and beta hydroxy acids are chemical exfoliators that are often used for chemical peels and are great for
rejuvenating aged skin. Though similar in effect, AHAs and BHAs have different strengths and purposes. AHAs are water
soluble, break away dead skin cells, increase skin turnover rates, smoothen skin, cleanse pores, hydrate the skin, and treat
comedonal acne (white heads and black heads). The most popular AHAs are glycolic acid and lactic acid, which are both
gentle, though some other AHAs include malic acid, citric acid, mandelic acid, and tartaric acid. 1
On the other hand, BHAs are oil-soluble and are best for people who have acne-prone skin. They are not as effective in
removing dead skin cells but are great for spot treatments targeting comedonal acne because BHAs seep into the oils and
clear out clogged pores. The most common BHA is salicylic acid which is well researched and effective.
People with sensitive skin and rosacea should avoid AHAs and BHAs because they can cause irritation and redness.
In addition, some may be allergic to salicylic acid, so be sure to patch test a product containing salicylic acid before
incorporating it into your skincare routine.2
1 Alpha and Beta Hydroxy Acids: Benefits, Risks, and More. Zwivel, 26 Apr. 2019, www.zwivel.com/blog/alpha-and-beta-hydroxy-acids/
2 Saint-Léger, Didier, et al. The Use of Hydroxy Acids on the Skin: Characteristics of C8-Lipohydroxy Acid. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology,
vol. 6, no. 1, Mar. 2007, pp. 59–65, 10.1111/j.1473-2165.2007.00296.x.
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Hyaluronic acid
Hyaluronic acid is a viscous hydrogel, meaning that it can retain water and moisture to keep the skin hydrated. Our body
naturally produces hyaluronic acid to retain water in our tissues, organs, and our skin; by retaining water, hyaluronic acid
polymers hydrate our body, lubricate our joints, and help the transport of the cells in our bodies. Furthermore, hyaluronic
acid plays an active role in tissue repair; the molecule activates “inflammatory cells to enhance immune response.” Because
age reduces the amount of hyaluronic acid produced by the skin, a good hyaluronic acid serum or toner will help replenish
the skin, keep the skin moisturized and youthful, have anti-microbial effects, and reduce wrinkles.1,23 Although hyaluronic
acid is not as strong of an active ingredient as others in this guide, a 2016 German study showed that anti-wrinkle creams
containing hyaluronic acid were able to reduce wrinkles and tighten the skin significantly, still making it an effective
hydrator and anti-aging agent.4
Despite the fact that “acid” is in the chemical name, hyaluronic acid is not astringent and will not cause irritation. The
hydrator is recommended for everyday use for both night and day as a lightweight toner or a moisturizer for acne-prone
skin.
1 Papakonstantinou, Eleni, et al. Hyaluronic Acid: A Key Molecule in Skin Aging. Dermato-Endocrinology, vol. 4, no. 3, July 2012, pp. 253–258,
www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3583886/, 10.4161/derm.21923.
2 Romanò, C. L., De Vecchi, E., Bortolin, M., Morelli, I., & Drago, L. (2017). Hyaluronic Acid and Its Composites as a Local Antimicrobial/An-
tiadhesive Barrier. Journal of bone and joint infection, 2(1), 63–72.
doi:10.7150/jbji.1770
3 Hyaluronic Acid Skin Care: How and Why It Works, Best Face Serums. Zwivel, 6 May 2019, www.zwivel.com/blog/hyaluronic-acid-skin-care/
4 Poetschke, Julian, et al. Anti-Wrinkle Creams with Hyaluronic Acid: How Effective Are They? MMW Fortschritte Der Medizin, vol. 158 Suppl
4, 2016, pp. 1–6, www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/27221554, 10.1007/s15006-016-8302-1
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Sunscreen
There are two major types of sunscreen: chemical and mineral/physical. Despite the categorization of chemical and physical,
both sunscreens are chemical based, though they act in different ways.
• Chemical sunscreens absorb harmful UV rays and down convert the UV light into heat that cannot damage skin.
Common chemical sunscreen ingredients include avobenzone, octinoxate, and oxybenzone, though some people may
experience irritation or have allergic reactions to some ingredients.
• Physical or mineral sunscreens block UV rays from penetrating the skin by reflecting UV radiation and cause less skin
and eye irritation. Common active ingredients include titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.1
Sunscreen helps prevent photoaging by preventing UV damage, and therefore should be used every day at a rating of at
least 30 SPF, which blocks 93% of UVB rays. Also look out for broad spectrum protection or sunscreens with a “PA+++”
rating, which indicates protection against UVA and UVB rays. UVA rays are responsible for skin again and wrinkling,
while UVB rays are known to cause reddening and sunburns; both can cause skin cancer.2
1 “The Difference between Physical and Chemical Sunscreen.” Piedmont Health, www.piedmont.org/living-better/the-difference-between-phys-
ical-and-chemical-sunscreen.
2 Steel, Megan. “Choosing the Sunscreen That's Best for You.” Zwivel, 25 Sept. 2018, www.zwivel.com/blog/guide-to-choosing-sunscreen/.
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Have a Good Time Pampering and Taking
Care of Your Skin.
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