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A

Training report
Of
Summer industrial training
At
A to Z Automobile Workshop, Roorkee (Uttrakhand)
Submitted
In The Partial Fulfillment of
Bachelor of Technology
Department of Mechanical Engineering

Roorkee College of Engineering, Roorkee


2018-2019

Submitted to: Submitted by:


Mr. Abhinav Bhatnagar Mahesh Kurmi
(Asst. Professor) B.Tech, (M.E.) 4th Year
Coordinator of Mechanical Department Roll no.: 151020104023
Table Contents
 COMPANY OVERVIEW
 AUXILLARIES
 TRAINING REPORT
1. FRONT SUSPENSION OVERHAUL
2. FUEL FILTER REPLACEMENT
3. BALL JOINT REPLACEMENT
4. ENGINE OIL REMOVAL
5. OIL FILTER REPLACEMENT
6. ENGINE OIL FILL UP
7. LOWER CHAMBER REPLACEMENT
8. WHEEL BALANCING
9. BRAKE CALLIPER REPLACEMENT
Overview of A to Z Automobiles
Behind the trusted A to Z Authorized Service, it is a one of the biggest A-class GOVT.
approved workshop in the city, backed by Dheer Singh Ji, that will look after you and
your car, to provide a full range of expert car servicing and repairs.

Our experts have the knowledge to service and repair even the most challenging auto
problems on all makes and models of domestic and import vehicles. We use the latest
technology to assess the situation and offer you alternatives. We guarantee all of our
work and know you'll be happy with the outcome. Stop in or give us a call to let us know
how we can help you!

A to Z Auto Services is a reliable, independently running Service Station and Garage


Repair Workshop in Roorkee. We pride ourselves on providing a personal and friendly
service that includes:

 Free mechanical check (with every service).


 Genuine replacement parts
 No additional work undertaken without customer’s prior consent

To keep your vehicle running properly at all times, we offer a number of services in the
Lexington, KY 40505 area that are carried out by our certified, expert auto service and
repair technicians who have years of experience performing everything from oil changes
to a complete engine overhaul.

We use high-tech diagnostic equipment to guarantee your vehicle is repaired and/or


serviced correctly the first time around, and we only use the highest quality replacement
parts, filters, oils, and components when it comes to your car.

Our services include:

Our Machinery

 Wheel Alignment
 Wheel Balancing
 Injector Cleaning
 Rim Straightener
 Paint Booth
 All Type Of Welding (Arc, Liar, MIG ,Spot Welding)
 Pollution Checking Center
 Ecu repair
DIFFERENT SECTION AT A TO Z

 MECHANICAL WORK
 ELECTRICAL WORK
 BODYSHOP WORK
 PAINTING WORK
 CAR ACCESSORIES
 SALE AND PURCHASE(true value)
MECHANICAL WORK
It includes major and minor works in car likes…..

 Engine overhauling
 Clutch overhauling
 Servicing
 Suspension work
 Wheel alignment
 Wheel balancing
 General checkup

ELECTRICAL WORK INCLUDE

 All Wire Fitting


 Ecm repairing
 Ac Work
 Key coding
 Distributor Work
 Light Work
 Ignition Problem
CAR ACCESSORIES INCLUDES:

 Catch Cover
 Door Visor
 Seat Cover
 Wheel Caps
 Steering Cover
 Mud Flaps
 Music System Etc
The types of services offered by A to Z automobiles are as
follows

AUXILLARIES

Free services- are offered to new cars which have run 10000 km or age less than
one year. The first free service is done at 1000 km or 1 month, whichever comes
first. The second free service is done at 5000 km or 6 months and third free service
is done at 10000 km or 12 months. The labor charges are not added in the free
services. The other charges like Engine oil, Gear oil are imposed on the customer.
The average oil charges come around Rs.750 per service. The average time taken for
the free service is 1 hour.

Paid services are offered to cars which have run more than 10000 km or age more
than 1 year. The average labor charge for a paid service is Rs.700. The spare part
charge for the paid service varies with the km run. The Average spare part charges
for the cars between 10000 km and 20000 km is Rs.1500 and for the cars greater
than 20000 km is Rs.2500. The oil charges are also included in the paid services.
The average time taken for paid service is 1.5 hours.

Running repairs are done on the cars which come with any faults in the Engine,
Gear box, AC, or any other major repairs. The charges for repairs vary for each and
every car repaired. The average charge for running repairs comes around Rs.9000
per car. The labor charges are added but there won’t be any oil charges for running
repairs. There are 10 bays in the service station which we have visited. These bays
are divided into 4 types

Express Bay: The free services and quick services are done in this bay. A maximum
of 10 vehicles can be serviced in this bay per day.

Two-Tech Bay: The paid services are done on the Two-Tech bay. It has the name
‘Two-Tech’ since there are 2 technicians allocated to that bay. A maximum of 8
vehicles can be serviced in this bay per day.

Normal Bay: The cars with general repair or break down are serviced in this bay. A
maximum of 2 vehicles can be serviced in this bay per day.

Support Bay: Wheel alignment and AC services are done in the support bays. It is
also used as Express, Two- Tech or Normal Bays in case of an emergency. 2 bays
are allocated for support.
TRAINING REPORT

JOBS PERFORMED –
1. FRONT SUSPENSION CHANGE
PROCEDURE:
 Remove front tires using pneumatic gun.
 Remove jumper mounting bolts at top side of bonnet.
 Leave the bolts from the shock tower as they are for now.
 Turn the wheel to the right for easy access .unclip the brake sensor from the mounting
point.
 Undo the bolt at the rear that holds the shock and mounting plate for brake sensor and
abs sensor
 undo the 2 bolts at the rear of the brake caliper. remove the caliper and just put it on
your suspension links
Remove coil springs using spring puller tool and disassembly all parts
Now take a new shock absorber and same coil spring of old suspension.
Shift coil spring over the shock absorber using tool.
Similarly assemble all the parts over the car.

Fig: SUSPENSION MOUNTING

Fig: SUSPENSION REMOVAL SIDE VIEW


Fig: SPRING PULLER TOOL

2. FUEL FILTER CHANGE

PROCEDURE:

i. Locate fuel filter


Refer to the vehicle service manual to identify the location and type of fuel filter, and the
correct procedure for removing and replacing it.

ii. Remove static pressure from fuel system


If the engine is fitted with an electric fuel pump, locate the fuel pump fuse using the
service manual, and remove it. Start the engine and wait for it to stop as it runs out of
fuel. Switch the ignition off.

iii. Obtain correct replacement


Obtain the correct replacement filter and components. If the vehicle has a carbureted
fuel system, new intake and outlet hoses may have been supplied with the filter. If so,
then attach them to the new filter before you disconnect the old one.
iv. Using correct equipment, remove fuel filter
Loosen the clamps on the fuel line on the engine side of the filter at the outer end of the
hose and disconnect it. If necessary drain any excess fuel into the fuel proof container.

v. Install carbureted system filter


Connect the new filter hose and tighten the clamp. Make sure that you have the filter
facing in the right direction, with the flow indicator arrow pointing towards the engine.
Then remove the old filter and reconnect the new one to the fuel intake. If you do this
quickly, very little of the residual fuel in the line should leak from the system.

vi. Remove old EFI system filter


In a fuel injected system, the fuel is under greater pressure, so the fuel lines are normally
made of metal, which are not replaced at the same time as the filter. Using the correct
tool, loosen the metal line connectors and remove the filter, catching any leaking fuel in
a fuel-proof container.

vii. Install EFI system filter


Connect the new filter and tighten the line connectors. Make sure that you have the filter
facing in the right direction, with the flow indicator arrow pointing towards the engine.
Finally, remember to replace the fuel pump fuse.

3. LOWER ARM BALL JOINT REPLACE


PROCEDURE:
Remove the wheel and access the ball joint

Soak all the bolts with WD-40 or PB Blaster OR TBC Spray


Pull the cotter pin and loosen the large castellated nut
Pop loose the ball joint
Remove the Allen bolts and slide the control arm free

Guide the new joint through the knuckle hole


Bolt the joint into place using the hardware included

4. ENGINE OIL CHANGE


PROCEDURE:
 Lift your car
 Remove the oil cap OR bolt from lower chamber

 Loosen the plug counter-clockwise using the proper sized wrench if you've got room to
maneuver.
 It will take several minutes for all the oil to drain out of the car.

 Finally tighten the chamber bolt.

5. OIL FILTER CHANGE


PROCEDURE 
Locate the filter assembly


Unscrew the oil filter. Get a twist low and steadily, counterclockwise

Prepare the new filter. Dip the tip of your finger in the new replacement oil and
smear it on the gasket ring of the new filter. This will lubricate the gasket and create a
good seal for the new filter, and ensure that you'll be able to get it off the next time.

Carefully screw on the new, lubricated filter, being careful to not cross the threads.

6. ADDING NEW OIL


PROCEDURE:
Add new oil to the car at the fill hole. The amount you need is in the owner's manual,
usually listed under "capacities."
 If you hold the bottle with the spout on top, it will pour more
smoothly, without bubbling.
 Make sure you're adding the correct oil. Typically, you can safely add 10W-30 to most
cars in a pinch, but you should consult your owner's manual or the experts at an auto
shop before adding oil.
7. LOWER OIL CHAMBER REPLACE
Remove engine oil by loosening the bolt of lower chamber
Remove the oil sump
Replace the new sump by applying glue to it.
Fix it and let it remain there for at least 3 hours to stick
and harden up
Finally pour engine oil from top.
8. WHEEL BALANCING
PROCEDURE:
1. Turn your machine OFF then ON, which resets the balancer. The machine wakes up
using standard clip-on wheel weight locations.
2. Remove stones/rocks or other debris from tread and any weights already attached to
the wheel. During this process you also should remove any mud, dirt or snow on the
inside of the wheel and make sure that the mounting surface of the wheel is completely
3. Mount a tire/wheel assembly on a balancer that will use standard clip-on wheel
weights. Use the most appropriate mounting method. Technicians should be careful to
avoid back injury and should seek assistance when lifting a heavy tire/wheel assembly
onto a balancing shaft.
4. There are two main mounting methods. They include.

 BACK CONE:
Most original equipment and steel wheels can be mounted properly using this
method. The wheel is centered on a cone from the inner side of the wheel.

 FRONT CONE:
A wheel should be centered by the outer side of the hub only when the inner
surface will not provide an accurate surface.

5. For automatic measurement, pull the offset arm out to the wheel, hold it still at clip-on
weight position against the wheel flange and wait for a “beep.” Return the arm to home
position.
6. Lower the hood. The wheel will spin and unbalances are measured and displayed. The
corrective weight amount appears in the weight display window for inboard and
outboard weight locations.

7. Raise the hood after the tire stops rotating. Make sure that the wheel has stopped
before raising the hood.

8. Inboard center bar blinks. If an inboard corrective weight is not required, the wheel
will stop at the outboard corrective weight location and you can go to Step 11.

9. Attach inboard corrective weight. Attach specified weight amount at top-dead-center


on the inside flange of the wheel.

10. Press NEXT, causing the wheel to rotate.

11. The outboard center bar will blink.

12. Attach outboard corrective weights. Attach specified weight amount at the top-dead-
center on the outside flange of the wheel.
13. Lower the hood to respin the tire/wheel and check balance. The weight readings
should now be 0.00.

9. FRONT BRAKE CALLIPERS REPLACEMENT


PROCEDURE:
1. Lift up the car up to required height.
2. Remove the lug nuts or bolts completely from studs and remove the front tires.

3. Compress the caliper piston completely into the bore with a C-clamp or piston
retracting tool
4. Remove the retaining bolts that hold the caliper's brake hose in place to allow
movement with a wrench.

5. Loosen and remove the caliper fitting with a wrench. The fitting shown is also known
as a "banjo" fitting.

6. Remove the caliper mounting bolts with a wrench; be sure to save these bolts as you
may need to reuse them.
7. Lift the caliper up until it clears the rotor and then slide it off. Carefully remove the
brake pads from the caliper. Try to avoid dropping brake pads as it can cause serious
damage.
8. Inspect the caliper supports for rusting or corrosion that would interfere with the
new caliper. If there is any corrosion or interference be sure to remove before new
caliper installation.
9. If provided or recommended by the manufacturer, lubricate the BACK of the brake
pads, mounting bushings and sleeves with the recommended grease. Place the brake
pads into the new caliper if they are not preloaded. Do not apply grease to the side of
brake pad that is in contact with the rotor.
10. Carefully slide the brake pad and caliper assembly over the rotor. Install new
mounting bolts (if supplied) if not reuse the bolts you removed and tighten to your
vehicle's specifications. You might need a torque wrench to do this. Be sure not to over
torque.

11. Reconnect the caliper hose with the caliper (banjo) fitting and new washers.

12. Remove the plug from the hose and use a wrench or torque wrench to replace the
retaining bolts or clips.
13. Bleed your brakes until they are firm. Refill with proper DOT specification for you
vehicle, any brake fluid that was lost.
14. Put the wheels back onto your car.

15. Test the feel of your car's brakes before you travel. if brakes don't feel like they are
working properly, contact a certified technician immediately.