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DIGITIZING
If you decide to use a computer for pattern designing and you are usual
using paper patterns, the first step is to digitize those patterns.
By digitization, the geometrical shapes of the pattern are transmitted with
high precision to the computer in order to be stored in digital format. The
pattern is positioned on the digitizing table and the operator follows the
contour using a pointing device such as a mouse, also marking notches,
darts, grain line and other technical elements.
The pattern is identified on the horizontal x-axis and vertical y-axis.
Function:
¾ identity piece (name, set, size, mirror)
¾ digitising contour
(intermediate points on the curves,
grading points – value zero or grade rule,
standard notch, variable notch)
¾ digitising internal contours
¾ digitising big pieces in parts
¾ digitising the marks
(reference line, position marks)
© Technical University of Liberec 2009
COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGN
Blazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing Technology
E-mail: blazena.musilova@tul.cz
PATTERN GRADING
After the patterns are digitized, the operator introduces into the computer
the grading rules for each piece. Grading methods may be used, based
on the grading rules previously stored on your computer.
Grading is the process used by clothing manufacturers to produce patterns
for a garment in a range of sizes for ready-to-wear clothing. The master
pattern, sample pattern or base size pattern can be either a block pattern
or a production pattern of a style from which the other sizes are graded.
It is generally the centre of the size range for grading accuracy.
Larg Body measurements chart for Women of medium height 160 cm-172 cm
e r siz
e
y S IZE
B ust (cm )
8
80.0
10
84.0
12
88.0
14
92.0
16 18 20
96.0 100.0 104.0
Sma
ller size grade points W aist (cm ) 62.0 66.0 70.0 74.0 78.0 82.0 86.0
¾These are in the form of the vertical and horizontal changes at cardinal
points on the pattern.
¾ For computer grading, these are expressed as Cartesian coordinates (x, y).
Piece runs horizontally on the x-axis. The x-axis or y-axis represents
the straight warp grain line of the fabric and is generally used as the grade
reference line.
+y
-x +x
Reference line
-y
Grading increments
A grading increment (dy, dx) is the difference in measurement between
two sizes, either in a size chart or a specific point on a pattern.
Increase or decrease in size takes place within the pattern area.
¾The full girth and length grading increments are found in most size charts.
¾Can also be calculated if the measurement was derived
as a proportion of a full major girth measurement.
¾Can be calculated from any reliable drafting system by calculating
two sizes then subtracting the smaller from the larger.
S IZ E 8 10 12 14 16 18 20
T o fit w a is t cm 6 2 .0 6 6 .0 7 0 .0 7 4 .0 8 0 .0 8 6 .0 9 2 .0
in 2 4 1 /2 26 2 7 1 /2 29 3 1 1 /2 34 3 6 1 /2
T o fit h ip s cm 8 8 .0 9 2 .0 9 6 .0 1 0 0 .0 1 0 5 .0 1 1 0 .0 1 1 5 .0
in 35 3 6 1 /2 3 8 1 /2 39 4 1 1 /2 4 3 1 /2 4 5 1 /2
Front skirt
Back skirt
Grade points
Grade points are positioned at the cardinal points of a pattern where
the measurement to another size takes place.
¾ These can be perimeter or internal. perimeter
grade point
¾ This movement is in an X (horizontal) and Y contour
Front trouser
in one of the four directions of + X, -X, + Y, -Y.
+y
zero point +y
-x +x ZP
-y
-x +x
-y
grade rules of ZP ( d x = 0, d y = 0 )
-x
zero point represents the position
+x
where no movement takes
-y
place
+y
zero point
in the X or Y direction.
-x +x It is from this point that
-y all the grading increments
are calculated.
¾ The X-axis is horizontal.
The movement to the right
from the zero point is
positive and to the left
negative.
¾ The Y - axis is vertical.
The movement up from
the zero point is positive and
down negative.
This option allows the graded nest to be stacked ¾ Zero point can be situated
at a different point to the original grade. in different position.
© Technical University of Liberec 2009
COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGN
Blazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing Technology
E-mail: blazena.musilova@tul.cz
Grade rules
For computer grading each movement of a graded point
in both X and Y direction is defined by a numbered grade rule.
¾ The grade rules are listed in a grade rule table that lists and defines
the numbered grade rules.
Skirt
SIZE dx dy
grade rule of ZP ( d x = 0, d y = 0 )
¾ The same rules can be assigned to any point of any other pattern
piece within the same size range.
Once a grade point number is assigned to a point on the pattern
the computer automatically redraws the shape of the piece by
connecting the grade points.
© Technical University of Liberec 2009
COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGN
Blazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing Technology
E-mail: blazena.musilova@tul.cz
Marker making
The pieces that have to be cut in certain materials
are nested in a rectangle that has the width of the
fabric. The pieces are placed as efficient possible to
achieve good fabric utilisation. Lay - out plan of pattern pieces
¾Using more sizes together and variety of pattern pieces and more
compactly fit together leads to less material waste. This depends
on the length of the cutting table.
¾The marker mustn't include the fixed edge of the fabric.
¾ Technological waste Ot Lp
(space among the pattern pieces)
[ ]
n
Ot = S p − ∑ S i m 2 Marker percentage utilisation „e“
i =1 n
∑S i
Sp …marker area [m2] e= i =1
10 2 [%] e+Ot% = 1
n Sp
∑S
i =1
i
…area of all pattern pieces [m2]
¾ Percentage technological waste Ot [ % ]
n
S p − ∑ Si
Ot [%] = t = 10 2 [%]
O i =1
Sp Sp
© Technical University of Liberec 2009
COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGN
Blazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing Technology
E-mail: blazena.musilova@tul.cz
Pattern pieces on the marker plan on striped fabrics. Checked marker plan.
MADE TO MEASURE
M.T.M. the complete automatized solution for industrial custom tailoring.
It is a program used for the production of individual and personalized
garments. The specific measurements of a customer are employed for
the adaptation of standard pieces already saved in the system.
Main characteristics
¾ Automatic performance of the pattern
modification on the reference garment to
achieve the custom adapted garment patterns
for the individual customer. Modifications of the
patterns is performed on the nearest reference
size to the customer, as identified at the point
of sale. Take measurements.
The customer defines the personal options for the product desired.
3D DESIGN APPLICATION
Transform your vision into reality
E.g.V-Sticher is a 3D design application that lets you streamline the
design cycle. It simulates texture, draping and fit of garments by
displaying them on a realistic virtual human body based on your pattern,
fabric and texture data.
Realistic virtual human body, fit your collection on unlimited body types Transform your 2D shapes into 3D garment
FIT
¾ The most advanced computerized simulation of garments that
genuinely reflects reality.
¾ Exceptionally detailed, true-to-life representation of an adaptable 3D
human body, in various poses.
¾ Transforming standard 2D information into a 3D garment directly from
the data base from standard CAD system.
¾ Supporting fitting sessions by delivering real-time
3D response to any 2D changes
using inherent PGS powerful tools
¾ Advanced testing tools enable accuracy
of the garment fit.
DESIGN
¾ Designing in 3D using picture perfect textures
¾ Design, present and transmit garments, fabric, seams, prints and
logos in real-time
¾ 3D, with photo quality true-to-life representation
MERCHANDISE
¾ Present a real-life view of your collection in a high quality, interactive
3D catalogue.
COLLABORATE
¾ Enabling remote viewing through Internet platform.
¾ Sharing data among multiple users through an integrated database
that stores information such as style, shapes, textures, fabrics,
attachments and sizes.
Communicate with your partners, expand your portfolio of design option through a realistic 3D digital catalogue.