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COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGN

Blazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing Technology


E-mail: blazena.musilova@tul.cz

DIGITIZING
If you decide to use a computer for pattern designing and you are usual
using paper patterns, the first step is to digitize those patterns.
By digitization, the geometrical shapes of the pattern are transmitted with
high precision to the computer in order to be stored in digital format. The
pattern is positioned on the digitizing table and the operator follows the
contour using a pointing device such as a mouse, also marking notches,
darts, grain line and other technical elements.
The pattern is identified on the horizontal x-axis and vertical y-axis.
Function:
¾ identity piece (name, set, size, mirror)
¾ digitising contour
(intermediate points on the curves,
grading points – value zero or grade rule,
standard notch, variable notch)
¾ digitising internal contours
¾ digitising big pieces in parts
¾ digitising the marks
(reference line, position marks)
© Technical University of Liberec 2009
COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGN
Blazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing Technology
E-mail: blazena.musilova@tul.cz

CHECKING AND MODIFYING


All patterns can be:
¾ automatically checked for problems concerning the seam line length,
¾the matching of notches and the geometrical shapes correspondence.
¾Patterns can be displayed and checked folded or unfolded, with or
without seam allowance, with the darts closed or opened.

Some commands for modification and create pieces:


Notches – to create and Draw – to draw lines or curves
manipulate notches
Seam allowance setting
Divide – to cut a pattern into
two pieces Altering – to move a graded
point
Darts – to create and move
Mode rule – the input of grade
darts on a pattern
values for each point pattern
Grade – to choose which sizes Place – one pattern to be
to show on screen moved/rotate to fit against
a second pattern
© Technical University of Liberec 2009
COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGN
Blazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing Technology
E-mail: blazena.musilova@tul.cz

PATTERN GRADING
After the patterns are digitized, the operator introduces into the computer
the grading rules for each piece. Grading methods may be used, based
on the grading rules previously stored on your computer.
Grading is the process used by clothing manufacturers to produce patterns
for a garment in a range of sizes for ready-to-wear clothing. The master
pattern, sample pattern or base size pattern can be either a block pattern
or a production pattern of a style from which the other sizes are graded.
It is generally the centre of the size range for grading accuracy.
Larg Body measurements chart for Women of medium height 160 cm-172 cm
e r siz
e
y S IZE
B ust (cm )
8
80.0
10
84.0
12
88.0
14
92.0
16 18 20
96.0 100.0 104.0
Sma
ller size grade points W aist (cm ) 62.0 66.0 70.0 74.0 78.0 82.0 86.0

H ips (cm ) 86.0 90.0 94.0 98.0 102.0 106.0 104.0

In order to grade a pattern, increases


(or decreases) are applied at specific points
of a pattern to make each new pattern in
0
x another larger (or smaller) size.
© Technical University of Liberec 2009
COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGN
Blazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing Technology
E-mail: blazena.musilova@tul.cz

¾These are in the form of the vertical and horizontal changes at cardinal
points on the pattern.
¾ For computer grading, these are expressed as Cartesian coordinates (x, y).
Piece runs horizontally on the x-axis. The x-axis or y-axis represents
the straight warp grain line of the fabric and is generally used as the grade
reference line.

+y

-x +x
Reference line
-y

¾The graded sizes can be simultaneously displayed on the computer screen


and can be aligned in order to be checked in various ways.
¾The automatic grading method is based on complete redrawing of each
pattern, respecting the standard construction rules and formula.
¾This method will always ensure perfect fitting for all sizes without any
deviation.
© Technical University of Liberec 2009
COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGN
Blazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing Technology
E-mail: blazena.musilova@tul.cz

Grading increments
A grading increment (dy, dx) is the difference in measurement between
two sizes, either in a size chart or a specific point on a pattern.
Increase or decrease in size takes place within the pattern area.
¾The full girth and length grading increments are found in most size charts.
¾Can also be calculated if the measurement was derived
as a proportion of a full major girth measurement.
¾Can be calculated from any reliable drafting system by calculating
two sizes then subtracting the smaller from the larger.
S IZ E 8 10 12 14 16 18 20
T o fit w a is t cm 6 2 .0 6 6 .0 7 0 .0 7 4 .0 8 0 .0 8 6 .0 9 2 .0
in 2 4 1 /2 26 2 7 1 /2 29 3 1 1 /2 34 3 6 1 /2
T o fit h ip s cm 8 8 .0 9 2 .0 9 6 .0 1 0 0 .0 1 0 5 .0 1 1 0 .0 1 1 5 .0
in 35 3 6 1 /2 3 8 1 /2 39 4 1 1 /2 4 3 1 /2 4 5 1 /2
Front skirt
Back skirt

Increment d = 4cm Increment d = 6cm

© Technical University of Liberec 2009


COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGN
Blazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing Technology
E-mail: blazena.musilova@tul.cz

Grade points
Grade points are positioned at the cardinal points of a pattern where
the measurement to another size takes place.
¾ These can be perimeter or internal. perimeter
grade point
¾ This movement is in an X (horizontal) and Y contour

(vertical) direction similar to the grid of manual


internal
grading. grade point
intersection point
¾ The distance and direction of the grade point
movement is recorded on an X- axis and Y - axis
from a zero point (ZP) that is stationary at the
junction of the axis.
¾ The measurements are marked from the zero point

Front trouser
in one of the four directions of + X, -X, + Y, -Y.
+y
zero point +y
-x +x ZP
-y
-x +x
-y

grade rules of ZP ( d x = 0, d y = 0 )

© Technical University of Liberec 2009


COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGN
Blazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing Technology
E-mail: blazena.musilova@tul.cz

Zero point ¾ The stationary zero point


+y

-x
zero point represents the position
+x
where no movement takes
-y
place
+y
zero point
in the X or Y direction.
-x +x It is from this point that
-y all the grading increments
are calculated.
¾ The X-axis is horizontal.
The movement to the right
from the zero point is
positive and to the left
negative.
¾ The Y - axis is vertical.
The movement up from
the zero point is positive and
down negative.
This option allows the graded nest to be stacked ¾ Zero point can be situated
at a different point to the original grade. in different position.
© Technical University of Liberec 2009
COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGN
Blazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing Technology
E-mail: blazena.musilova@tul.cz

Grade rules
For computer grading each movement of a graded point
in both X and Y direction is defined by a numbered grade rule.
¾ The grade rules are listed in a grade rule table that lists and defines
the numbered grade rules.
Skirt

SIZE dx dy

grade rule of ZP ( d x = 0, d y = 0 )

¾ The same rules can be assigned to any point of any other pattern
piece within the same size range.
Once a grade point number is assigned to a point on the pattern
the computer automatically redraws the shape of the piece by
connecting the grade points.
© Technical University of Liberec 2009
COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGN
Blazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing Technology
E-mail: blazena.musilova@tul.cz

The method of grade rules setting – computing method


The construction points are regarded as grade points
Steps:
1. Grading increments calculation.
Difference in measurement of construction abscissa between two sizes,
either in a size chart or a specific point on a pattern. Keep the construction
steps is required.
2. Grade points setting. Grade points mostly coincide with construction
points on pattern.These can be perimeter or internal. It can be an
intersection point, notch, top of dart and so on.
3. Zero point (ZP) setting. The position of zero point is mostly at the
intersection point of one horizontal construction line and vertical
construction line to each other situated on pattern construction.
ZP ( d x = 0, d y = 0 )
4. Rule setting. Rule is setting for every points = movement of grading
increment value. It is difference dy, dx. The direction of the grade point
movement is marked in one of the four directions of + X, -X, + Y, -Y
recorded on an X- axis and Y - axis from a zero point (ZP) that is
stationary at the junction of the axis.
© Technical University of Liberec 2009
COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGN
Blazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing Technology
E-mail: blazena.musilova@tul.cz

Dimension Size 36 38 Size 40 Increments


SKIRT grading h [ mm] 1680 1680 1680 0
wg [ mm] 680 720 760 40
W1 is ZP of Back skirt hg [ mm] 920 960 1000 40
kl [ mm] 580 580 580 0
W7 is ZP of Front skirt Distance Measurement Size 36 Size 38 Size 40 Increments [mm]
H1H4 0.25hg+1cm 240 250 260 10
W1W4 0.25wg+1cm 180 190 200 10
W1 W2 W4 W4´ W6 W7 W1W2 0.4 H1H4 96 100 104 4
H7 H4´ 0.25 hg 230 240 250 10
W21 W22 W61 W62 W7W4´ 0.25 wg 170 180 190 10
W7W6 0.4 H7H4´ 920 960 100 4
W1 H1 0.1 h+3 cm 198 198 198 0
H7 W1 K1 knee length 580 580 580 0
0.25 hg+1cm 0.25 hg
H1 Sup 120 120 120 0
H4=H4´ Grade Size 36 Size 38 Size 40
point Δx Δy Δx Δy Δx Δy
W1 0 0 0 0 0 0
Back Front H1 0 0 0 0 0 0
K1 0 0 0 0 0 0
W2 -4 0 0 0 +4 0
W4 -10 0 0 0 +10 0
H4 -10 0 0 0 +10 0
K1 K4 K7 K4 -10 0 0 0 +10 0
W7 0 0 0 0 0 0
W6 4 0 0 0 -4 0
Suppression: W4´ 10 0 0 0 -10 0
H4´ 10 0 0 0 -10 0
0.5hg + Pv (1) – 0,5(wg + Pv(1)) K4´ 10 0 0 0 -10 0

Grade rules W21 = W2 = W22, W61 =W6 = W62

© Technical University of Liberec 2009


COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGN
Blazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing Technology
E-mail: blazena.musilova@tul.cz

MARKER MAKING AND LAY PLANNING


In the computer Marker plan (Cut Plan) application, the operator sets the
quantity of garments ordered by the client for each model, some general
settings regarding cutting:
¾the length of the spreading table and spreading type for the marker
¾the maximum number of sheets in the lay
¾fabric width
¾sizes selection
¾safety distance between the pieces in the marker
¾pieces placed along or against the Grain
The Marker plan application can automatically generate the most efficient
plan for size grouping and distribution on markers, so a minimal number
of markers and lays are needed to obtain the ordered quantities. The user
may choose among several automatic strategies of lay planning, as well as
manual or semiautomatic methods to obtain the best results.
© Technical University of Liberec 2009
COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGN
Blazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing Technology
E-mail: blazena.musilova@tul.cz

Marker making
The pieces that have to be cut in certain materials
are nested in a rectangle that has the width of the
fabric. The pieces are placed as efficient possible to
achieve good fabric utilisation. Lay - out plan of pattern pieces

Principles and rules of marker making


¾ Final shape of pattern pieces (Master) are nested with seam and hem allowances.
¾ Pattern pieces be placed in the fabric along the reference line which is usually
parallel to the fabric warp or to the column of knitted fabric.
¾ Properties of the used material have to be respected such as type
of pattern style and nap.
Plain fabric without pattern – pattern pieces can be placed as a turned by180º
⇒ less material waste
Patterned fabric: (striped and check fabric) – balance marks are positioned
at the strategic points on the seams to maintain correct relationship.
Fabric with nap i.e. corduroy:
corduroy All pattern pieces need to laid directly along or
against the nap, that is also applicable to fabrics with the distinctive surface
texture, glossy surface for example.
© Technical University of Liberec 2009
COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGN
Blazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing Technology
E-mail: blazena.musilova@tul.cz

¾There is needed to make provision of cutting technology.


Set the safety distance (buffer) that will be applied between the pieces
in the marker for a better cutting quality. Range of safety size (buffer) is
in the case of: cutter 0 ÷1 mm, manual cut 5 mm ÷ 15 mm.
¾Respect the spreading type for the marker. Each spreading defines the
way the different layers are placed one on top of the other.
The different spreading types are:
S = Simple spreading, all layers are placed in the same X and Y direction.
The pieces of one complete garment are cut out of 1 layer,
A = face to face spreading,
T = Tubular spreading,
U = Upper fold spreading

¾Using more sizes together and variety of pattern pieces and more
compactly fit together leads to less material waste. This depends
on the length of the cutting table.
¾The marker mustn't include the fixed edge of the fabric.

© Technical University of Liberec 2009


COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGN
Blazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing Technology
E-mail: blazena.musilova@tul.cz

Formulas of fabric percentage utilisation


Parameters needed to assessing of the material utilisation
¾ Marker area Sp
S p = B p Lp [m 2 ]
Bp
Bp… marker width [m]
Lp… marker length [m]

¾ Technological waste Ot Lp
(space among the pattern pieces)

[ ]
n
Ot = S p − ∑ S i m 2 Marker percentage utilisation „e“
i =1 n

∑S i
Sp …marker area [m2] e= i =1
10 2 [%] e+Ot% = 1
n Sp
∑S
i =1
i
…area of all pattern pieces [m2]
¾ Percentage technological waste Ot [ % ]
n
S p − ∑ Si
Ot [%] = t = 10 2 [%]
O i =1
Sp Sp
© Technical University of Liberec 2009
COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGN
Blazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing Technology
E-mail: blazena.musilova@tul.cz

MARKER GENERATION SYSTEM


Maximum performance in interactive and automatic marking
Main characteristics
¾ Combines interactive fitting and automatic fitting
¾ Allows all kinds of fabric to be dealt with, whether open, folded, tubular,
with stripes, checked.
¾ Unlimited dimensions as to the number and size of pieces, styles,
marker length, etc…
¾ Marking is dynamic, the user may add new sizes, style or pieces
to the marker.
¾ Supports all kinds of laying methods,
for faced fabrics, tubular…
¾ Great flexibility and simplicity
in assignment and management
of gross or blocking distances,
and safety or distances buffering.
¾ Allows any marker from
the data base to be viewed
for use as a reference marker.
© Technical University of Liberec 2009
COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGN
Blazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing Technology
E-mail: blazena.musilova@tul.cz

¾ Allows pieces on striped and checked or patterned fabrics as simply


as on plain fabric.
Matching system
Main characteristics
¾ Ideal tool to cut striped, checked and other patterned fabric in the
tailoring and upholstery industry, based on the digital process of image
on the real fabric, which are taken by a high resolution telecamera.
¾ The program guarantees the correct position of the cloth patterns
on the fabric pattern design.

Pattern pieces on the marker plan on striped fabrics. Checked marker plan.

© Technical University of Liberec 2009


COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGN
Blazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing Technology
E-mail: blazena.musilova@tul.cz

MADE TO MEASURE
M.T.M. the complete automatized solution for industrial custom tailoring.
It is a program used for the production of individual and personalized
garments. The specific measurements of a customer are employed for
the adaptation of standard pieces already saved in the system.
Main characteristics
¾ Automatic performance of the pattern
modification on the reference garment to
achieve the custom adapted garment patterns
for the individual customer. Modifications of the
patterns is performed on the nearest reference
size to the customer, as identified at the point
of sale. Take measurements.

¾ Automatic fitting of the markers required


to manufacture the garment. The individual
garment markers are fitted by copying from the
reference marker.
Modification pattern.

© Technical University of Liberec 2009


COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGN
Blazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing Technology
E-mail: blazena.musilova@tul.cz

¾ The set of possible modifications


to adapt a garment to the
customers individual
measurements is unlimited
(shortening sleeves, raising both
shoulder, raise right shoulder 2cm,
shortening hems, etc…)
¾ The data is sent by internet to the
factory, where the garment will be
produced in the shortest possible
time

Creating patterns automatically.

The customer defines the personal options for the product desired.

© Technical University of Liberec 2009


COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGN
Blazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing Technology
E-mail: blazena.musilova@tul.cz

MARKER AND PATTERNS OUTPUT TO PLOTTER for manual cutting


¾ A large variety of plotters and cutters are offered, both
pen plotters and inkjet plotters. Some of the pen
plotters can also be used
as cutters, allowing the user to cut stock paper
patterns.
EXPORT FOR CUTTERS
¾ The markers can be directly sent to an automatic cutter.
Cutting digital control systems may be applied in any sector where automated
knife-cutting of materials is required.

Cutting room Detail of a knife


¾ Top cutting quality, digital control, lateral vacuum, balanced knife, direct digital
control, sharpening mechanisms, blade cooling system, automatic control
for adaptable regulation of the vacuum level, automatic mat cleaning system,
cutting checked or patterned fabrics (Matching system).
© Technical University of Liberec 2009
COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGN
Blazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing Technology
E-mail: blazena.musilova@tul.cz

3D DESIGN APPLICATION
Transform your vision into reality
E.g.V-Sticher is a 3D design application that lets you streamline the
design cycle. It simulates texture, draping and fit of garments by
displaying them on a realistic virtual human body based on your pattern,
fabric and texture data.

Realistic virtual human body, fit your collection on unlimited body types Transform your 2D shapes into 3D garment

© Technical University of Liberec 2009


COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGN
Blazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing Technology
E-mail: blazena.musilova@tul.cz

FIT
¾ The most advanced computerized simulation of garments that
genuinely reflects reality.
¾ Exceptionally detailed, true-to-life representation of an adaptable 3D
human body, in various poses.
¾ Transforming standard 2D information into a 3D garment directly from
the data base from standard CAD system.
¾ Supporting fitting sessions by delivering real-time
3D response to any 2D changes
using inherent PGS powerful tools
¾ Advanced testing tools enable accuracy
of the garment fit.

© Technical University of Liberec 2009


COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGN
Blazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing Technology
E-mail: blazena.musilova@tul.cz

DESIGN
¾ Designing in 3D using picture perfect textures
¾ Design, present and transmit garments, fabric, seams, prints and
logos in real-time
¾ 3D, with photo quality true-to-life representation

Designing in different sorts of textures.

© Technical University of Liberec 2009


COMPUTER PATTERN DESIGN
Blazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing Technology
E-mail: blazena.musilova@tul.cz

MERCHANDISE
¾ Present a real-life view of your collection in a high quality, interactive
3D catalogue.
COLLABORATE
¾ Enabling remote viewing through Internet platform.
¾ Sharing data among multiple users through an integrated database
that stores information such as style, shapes, textures, fabrics,
attachments and sizes.

Communicate with your partners, expand your portfolio of design option through a realistic 3D digital catalogue.

© Technical University of Liberec 2009

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