MODIFICATION YAQIN AMP

1/ YAQIN C10
I felt myself lucky when by chance I'd got in my hands this beautiful Chinese tube
amplifier yaqin mc-10k : it is a 6NP5/6AS7G triode based push-pull amplifier, with a well-
balanced sound, very pleasant to hear indeed. It is nice looking as well.

Unfortunately, a glass defect (?) compromised the bulb integrity of one 6NP5, so the
problem of a replacement arose. I did ask for an advice from Cattylink, about the tube
replacement and for bias realignment, they told me that in their experience it was better
to stay with the 6NP5 Russian model replacement and that I shouldn't take care of any
realignment as the power stage was auto-biasing.

As the 6NP5 tubes are quite hard to find in Italy, my attention focused on the nos 6AS7G
RCA tube: according to the information I'd got throughout the internet, this tube is a
quite good alternative to the Russian 6NP5.

But the issue of tubes realignment was still there: after a quick recognition of the yaqin,
surprisingly I noticed the existence of a potentiometer close to each power tube, easily
reachable thru the holes in the bottom plate of the amplifier. A quick search on google
with "yaqin biasing" as search key, reinforced my suspects, as various guys were asking
for a bias realignment procedure for this amplifier. Furthermore, I'd found an interesting
discussion on http://www.stereo411.com reported by a guy who told about a service plus
bias re-alignment he did, but no details about the job were given.

Then I decided put in place a plan, starting as of the 6AS7G RCA technical sheet.
Given all maximum ratings value for this tube (you can see them in the red circle I did),
I begun verifying some working parameters of the yaqin.

I opened the amplifier by removing all the copper screws on the metal cover and finally
the 6 screws in the bottom plate that keep the cover steadly in place. Removing the metal
cover isn't comfortable at all, as you will have to bend both sides of the cover and carefully
extract it. Beware your hands: the cover is sharp.
Here is how the amplifier looks like without its cover:

The materials and the craftwork are of decent level, though I was surprised seeing that
the heaters ac power supply cables weren't twisted, as I'd normally expect.

At first I determined the impedance of the output transformer primary winding's two
sections, by measuring them between the CT (center tap) terminal (See the green arrow,
black wire) and the two red wires (see the magenta arrows): in both cases the value was
14.6 ohms.

So I powered up the yaqin and determined the working power supply voltage on the CT
terminal as referred to the ground: in my amplifier it was 223 volts, and it meant that the
two triodes embedded in any single 6NP5/6AS7G worked with a valid and safe.
Now it's fundamental to bear in mind the followings:

the 6NP5/6AS7G is actually a twin power triode, as the tube embeds two identical triodes

in this amplifier, the twin triodes in each 6NP5/6AS7G valve are connected in parallel

I calculated the current biasing current by using the "anodic tension drop-off" method by
paralleling a voltmeter alternatively to each section of the output transformer primary
winding (CT - red wire), determining the voltage drop and consequently the plate
quiescent current. What I found for each tube was absolutely "casual": one tube
measured 27ma, one measured 62ma etc., hence both (left and right) power stage were
evidently unbalanced, consequently the crossover distortion was evident (For my own
tests, I always use a reference CD to tentatively "hear" this kind of distortion).

Thus I decided for a good and balanced biasing current for the tubes, here's the
assumption I did: safely using the 6AS7G tubes at max 70% of its capabilities, according
to the limitation in the technical sheet. In order to achieve this, you have to consider the
maximum plate dissipation, and the technical sheet asserts that each triode embedded in
the 6AS7G can dissipate 13W max.
As the twin triodes are connected in parallel, an entire 6AS7G can dissipate 26W max,
now please allow me to break off into a digression: each channel in this amplifier can
dissipate max 52W (four plates at work, at maximum rating) and I've never heard of a
tube amplifier having 100% efficiency, neither 70%. In a class AB power stage like this
we can expect max 32-35% efficiency, much less in a class A amplifier. There's no way
this amplifier can give you 40W RMS per channel.

As my assumption was to use the power tube at 70% of its capabilities, I had to stay
beside 18.2W max of total plate dissipation, both triodes at work.

You can have the maximum peak current value corresponding by dividing the power
dissipated by the plate voltage:

a = W / V = 18.2 / 223 = 0.082 = 82ma.

Hence as we have 2 triodes per valve, each of them will have 41ma. at maximum power,
so 82ma total.

Our final objective is not to exceed the 82ma per tube at maximum power, not even in
peaks.

The next figure is about the average plate characteristics. It shows that, given a plate
voltage of 223v, the single triode meets the maximum load curve at 58ma, see the red
lines; infact:

a = 13 / 223 = 0.058 max per triode

If you take a look at the shape of the grid polarization curves, it's easily understandeable
that biasin the valve too close to 70%, a simple "musical" variation on the grid tension
could bring the tube beyond the value of max plate dissipation allowed. Forgetting about
mathematics for a moment, we see that the meeting point of the blue line (70%) and
the dotted line curve (max load) is not too far.

A reasonable value for the quiescent current so could be approx 28-30ma, given the grid
polarization curves (see interval -80 to -160) we're still in a pretty linear part of the tube
and it's likely it won't even approach the 70% dissipation. Given the relation:

V = W /a

we can easily calculate the swing peak of plate tension that would move the tube to its
70%, you remember it's 13 * .7 = 9.1W

V = 9.1 / 0.028 = 325

this means that we should have a 112 volts plate peak to get to 70% max plate
dissipation, beyond 50% of the nominal power supply value for this amplifier !

We still have another interesting consideration to be done: as the impedance of the

output transformer is very low (14.6 ohms between the CT and each end in the the
primary winding), if we'd drat the trasformer load line we'd get an almost vertical line,
and it would overlap the segment where the 3 coloured points lie.
This seems to suggest us that from a pure mathematical viewpoint, the technical solution
of tube 6AS7+(this specific)Output transformer isn't an ideal one.
Starting as of 25ma of quiescent current in each triode, the tension dropoff is really
minimal:

@25ma dropoff=0.025*14.6=0,365V
@30ma dropoff=0.030*14.6=0,438V
@35ma dropoff=0.035*14.6=0,511V
@40ma dropoff=0.040*14.6=0,584V
@45ma dropoff=0.045*14.6=0,657V
This means that by increasing the current of 5ma, we'd get a plate tension drop-off of
only 0.073V.

If we try to draw such a load line in the graph, we'd overlap the vertical line were the 3
colored points lie and we'd see an ... almost vertical slope.

That's it.

Keeping in mind that there are two twin triode paralleled inside each valve, we know that
we have conservatively stay with 58ma of quiescent current total.

The "anodic voltage drop-off" method allows us to read the quiescent current value thru
the voltage drop between the output transformer CT (black wire) and each branch (red
wires). Keeping in mind that the impedance measured in each primary winding is 14.6
ohms, it's easy to calculate the drop-off value:
Vd = a * R = 0.056 * 14.6 = 0.8V

To correctly measure the drop-off, you have to put the red probe of your voltmeter on
the CT (black wire, green arrow) and the black one alternatively on the red wire winding
branches (magenta arrows). You will read casual and different values from the one I've
indicated above as Vd. Thus, you will have to move the corresponding potentiometer, it's
accessible thru the holes in the bottom plate. Move it until you will read 1.2V. Repeat the
procedure for each tube.

WARNINGS:

It's likely you will find the power stage tubes mostly unbalanced, the only reason I see
for that is that if the amplifier was ever tuned, possibly they used the negative grid voltage
method for tubes alignment: in my viewpoint, this method is unreliable and inconsistent,
but this is just an hypothesis.

As in any push-pull amplifier the power tubes have to be correctly balanced and tuned
(manually or automatically, it depends on the circuit design), I dare say that it's hard to
find a single "correct" quiescent current value, For sure, there's no meaningful reason to
employ a tube at 100% (or even worst, beyond) of its ratings, as for sure this could
shorten its time life. A 70% rating is a reasonable value, but possibly a good analyzer
and an oscilloscope will help us to fine tune, so it's possible we could get to 73% or 68%
either 81%.

The song I use to "hear" the cross-over distortion is "Lullaby" from the album "Join the
band" - TAKE 6: here the TAKE 6 voices are a kind of "Caudine Forks" (if you know ancient
Roman history you understand what it does mean) for all amplifiers.

CAVEAT: the "anodic voltage drop-off" measurement method is highly accurate, but can
be dangerous for the output transformer, a slip of the probes could provoke a winding
short-circuit and so the transformer could be accidentally destroyed.
DISCLAIMER:

Any trade mark or denomination here mentioned is property of his/her maker/author

Valve amplifiers work with high voltages that represent a safety hazard for your health.

No responsibilities can be referred to me for any mistyping and/or errors contained in this
document.

No responsibilities can be referred to me for injuries and damages to persons and things
consequential to the procedures here described.

I hope that these few notes can help the lucky owners of the yaqin mc-10k
Franco Tassone. franco.tassone@inwind.it
MOD 13S
The upgrades this time were to add improved Mundorf coupling caps, to change the grid
stopper resistors on the output valves and to add Elna Silmic bypass capacitors to the
output valves.
Another Yaqin 13s on the workbench for the usual upgrades: upgraded coupling
capacitors, upgraded grid stopper resistors and fitting of cathode bypass capacitors.
These mods worked their usual charms and gave a very decent performance, even with
the stock tubes. This time, I tried the amp with negative feedback removed. The
difference was dramatic, and so a small switch was installed on a plate to replace the
mains voltage switch which was re-mounted inside the chassis. In my set up, I never
switched the feedback back on and both myself and my regular ‘golden-eared’ mates
considered it way better.
The components I used were: Elna Silmic bypass capacitors, Mundorf ZN coupling
capacitors, and Takman carbon film resistors.

Yaqin MC-100B Tube Amp Tune-Up Mods

April 27th 2014
Created by: Jeff Doucette E.Tech
jeff@hi-tronics.ca
Here is some information on modifying your Yaqin MC-100B vacuum tube amplifier for
improved linearity and overall audio quality enhancement. There are some design flaws
which affect not only the longevity of the tubes, audio quality and clean headroom in the
stock design of the Yaqin MC-100b. If you would like any modifications performed and
tested by a professional technician we can perform the mods at Hi-Tronics. Please contact
us for a quote on rework or repair services for your Yaqin MC-100b.
Update – Nov. 7 2015: There is a design flaw in some Yaqin products that use this
same 6SN7 phase inverter. I forgot to add this update with the original article and some
re-investigation into the amplifier with the phase shift distortion removed and balanced
will be needed. If you are skilled with electronics you can balance your PI manually by
putting a pot in place of either R6 or R7. This is dangerous and you must understand the
risks. If you feel uncomfortable or have any questions about what you are
doing, don’t do it! Use the pot to find the optimal value for your tubes on the
oscilloscope and then sub a resistor for the pot. This will balance the PI and fix the phase
inverter distortion in the Yaqin MC-100B and various other Yaqin and Chinese designs
where the PI load resistors were not chosen correctly.

Yaqin MC 100B schematic/wiring diagram with dc voltages around the tube sockets:
If you are among many who have tried swapping tubes without much sonic improvement
but large costs, it is perhaps time to start looking at making some changes to the circuit
and the points of operation.
The first stage is a 12AX7 pre-amplifier SRPP (shunt regulated push-pull) type. It works
with a high voltage of about 330V and a current of about 0.65 mA, which is well chosen.
The second stage of MC-100B is Q1 6SN7: Cathode follower with a double triode 6SN7,
loads of plates 47k ohm and common cathode resistor of 68k ohm. The voltage is around
354V. There is a direct connection with the previous stage, the grids are at 164V, 170V
and cathodes (2.5 mA at 68k cathode resistor) so bias is -6V. This stage works under
very low current of 1.25 mA per triode, so right in the rounded area of the load line curves
and thus it produces a large amount (too much) harmonic pairs.
Third stage is Q2 6SN7: Driven by cathode follower with 100k cathode load resistor
attached to the grid of the KT-88. at a quiescent current of 3 mA triode and 414VDC.
There is a direct connection with the second stage so grid voltage is about 296V (the
plate voltage on the phase inverter). 3 mA at Rk with 100k resistor puts the cathode at
300 V that the filament does not appreciate at all. The bias is -4V at this stage.
Output stage: KT-88 push-pull configuration. UL (ultra-linear) or triode mode operation
is switchable, adjustable negative bias, high current about 60 mA idle with polarization
to -57V.
The second stage (Q2) seems like a great place to review. It is working at about 3 mA,
which is a minimum, and the Yaqin MC-100B already produces high levels 2nd order
harmonic distortion. The tube must still be linear and should not distort. A better option
is the 6SN7 should work under 9-10 mA. You do not need to change the high voltages
of the other stages, which are just fine. The calculated optimal values are here:
R6 and R7: Plate loads of two triodes of the phase splitter, change 47k ohm to 18k ohm
2 watt resistor.
R9: common Rk 68k ohm changed to 27k ohm 3 watt resistor.
R11: The series resistor on the PSU goes from 20k to 9.5 k resistor (10k should suit) still
3W. This change keeps the power supply voltages identical, although the current
consumption are higher.
R14 and R15: Two R 5.1 k resistors in series to give 10.2 K, use 7.5 k 3 watt resistor
for the same reasons as above.
With all these resistor changes, the operating points of tube stages 1, 3 and 4 should not
move, only the second is changed and now each triode sees about 3.15 mA, and its
polarization -6V to 4V; big change in linearity. If you find the MC-100B does not work
better at this bias, simply return to the old values Note: The voltages are those found
with AC 220V model (planned for this amp).
Please check your heater voltages as many of the Yaqin MC-100B models I have seen are
providing too much heater voltage; sometimes over 7 volts! If you want the tube retains
its quality for thousands of hours, the heater voltage must be precise, with a tolerance
down but not up. For calculating the heater supply resistor, you must measure the exact
voltage across a power tube, and calculate the Resistor here: R = (V measured at tube
heater – 6.3) / 4.7 amp.
I suggest change the coupling capacitors (C6 and C7) which 0.22μf stock to 1μf audio
grade capacitors.
If you want to remove the harshness of the corner of the square wave change C10 which
is 50pF to 72pF, it will round the corner of the square and remove the shrill and hardness
of the overall sound.
The many of the capacitors in the Yaqin MC-100B are under-rated for the B+ developed
across the HV rail and should be changed. Please contact us for recommendations or for
any rework on your Yaqin tube amp.
We have found some additional non-linearities in the design of the Yaqin MC-100B and
currently reworking the circuit to improve the headroom of Q1 and Q2. We are looking
at some major design flaws that are present at the preamp section of this amplifier, for
example lets take a look at the half volume/full volume oscilloscope screens of the Q2
6SN7 stage PIN 5 with a 2Vp-p 1Khz input signal applied at the RCA “CD in”:
Half volume:

I will update this page when we have these distortions reduced further. It appears that
stock MC-100B amplifiers are very much un-usable past half-volume due to the amount
of distortion present within the preamp. It is a combination of problems; including inter-
stage gain (+60db) too high and poor choice of operating point on the PI. If you have
any questions or comments you can contact us.
the best tube combination I have found are....

shuguang treasure kt88-z x 4

rca vt231 x 2 in v1 and v4
brimar 6sn7gty/cv1988 x 2 in v2 and v3
telefunken 12ax7 smooth plates x 2

Another mod
The most difficult part of the changing capacitors in the Yaqin amplifier is actually getting to
them. Removing the top plate, you can see the circuit boards and transformers.
The capacitors (both power and coupling) reside under the PCB. Gaining access requires
removing a kajillion screws holding the standoffs to the bottom plate.
You will also have to snip out a few zip-strips and unplug a few wires to safely push the PCB on
its side. Here you can see the larger .22uF/250V and the smaller .1uf/400V blue caps. Since I
had some real Wima MKP caps on hand that fit perfectly, I went this route. I'll note that the
Wimas - though good- are not exactly world class, but trust me, anything much larger is going to
be impossible to fit in there. Space is at a premium and with the tight-fitting metal case, there is
no room on top either.

After some soldering frustrations, I had everything back in place and ready to start rolling some
tubes. But I first did a few hours of listening to determine the differences (if any) with the new
caps. The change was fairly minimal with a slightly cleaner top-end and perhaps a touch more
detail. Honestly, I would only go this route if you are so inclined and (very) handy with
a soldering iron.

Next up was changing the stock Shuguang 12AT7 tubes. In theory this change should have the
greatest effect on the sound. Since I don't have a large stash of this tube, I had to go shopping.
Trolling hither and thither, I scored some 1950s-era Tungsol 12AT7s via Ebay, and bought a pair
of Mullard CV4024 from Upscale Audio. With the Tungsol as the input tube, the Mullard used
as drivers, and the stock Shuguang EL34s, I sat down and gave the Yaqin a listen.

This was a major improvement - listening to the 1975 Fleetwood Mac self-titled album brought
further depth and instrument clarity. For some reason, there seemed to be more apparent power
too. Treble detail increased dramatically, showing just how important the driver tubes are, even
in a negative feedback amplifier.

I've often railed against the cost of vintage tubes - but in my experience, they've been the best.
With a budget amplifier, it really doesn't make sense to spend a fortune on the 'good stuff', but I
was curious to see how well the Yaqin would perform with something world-class. Enter in a set
of real Mullard dual-halo XF2s. Though these tubes already have many hours on them, they still
test as new, and with the conservative operating points of the MC-10T, they should last for a
very, very long time.

At first I thought the output tube change was minimal, but as the Mullards settled in to place,
the sound just got better and better. For example, listening to Steely Dan - The Nightfly, the
female backing vocals took on an amazing separation. Instead of a homogeneous blob, I could
now hear the individual voices. Instrument attack and dynamics also improved, easily besting
the Shuguangs. It isn't that the Chinese tubes were bad, it's just that the vintage Mullards were
that much better, casting a bigger and deeper soundstage with a more realistic, less hi-fi
presentation.

In the end, my appreciation for the Yaqin amplifier grew. I've owned many tube amps - most of
the Dynaco line-up, Harmon-Kardons, Scotts, Heaths, Fishers, and my own DIY designs, and
the Yaqin is right up there with some of the best ones. Stock, out of the box, it's a screaming
deal. With the right tubes and a coupling capacitor upgrade, they truly are great amplifiers

Next up is bi-amping. I initially intend to try a simple in-line capacitor to roll off the bass for the
Yaqin. In theory this should give the amplifier for headroom since it won't have to handle the
low frequencies. Another option is to use an active crossover, which can also be used to replace
the passive components that are mounted within the speaker. This is ultimately the best route to
go.

A nice inexpensive tube is the JJ E34L based on the original KT77

Yaquin MC10-L for approximately 2 years. I have changed the power tubes to JJ KT77's and the pre-amp
tubes to ECC85 RTF's from Tube Depot. The amp is powering Vandersteen 2Ce's in my basement.