WineSpectator.

com
p m

Cheese
THE

ISSUE
With Delicious Recipes
And Matching Wines

WHITE
BURGUNDY:
MORE THAN 200
RATED 90+
CALIFORNIA
PINOT NOIR:
EXCEPTIONAL
REDS IN
DIVERSE STYLES
MORE THAN 625
WINES RATED
 CONTENTS Sept. 30, 2016 Vol. 40, No. 7

“Not many people knew about burrata when we first opened. We found a local
cheesemaker that was able to supply burrata daily. Mozza really helped introduce
burrata cheese to Los Angeles—maybe even America?”—Chef elizabeth hong

44 Ten mouthwatering recipes for cheeses, with wine matches

Cover Story Features

Cheese TA S T I N G R E P O R T S
84 Against the Odds A difficult 2013 vintage fails to waylay
Burgundy vintners, who deliver an impressive crop of rich, racy
44 Cooking With Cheese Explore 10 iconic cheeses, with
whites • Bruce Sanderson
recipes from leading chefs and wine matches from top
sommeliers • Owen Dugan, with David Gibbons 107 Pushing Pinot In the midst of steady growth, California
Pinot Noir achieves excellent quality in the complementary
47 Mozzarella Burrata Caprese
2013 and 2014 vintages • James Laube
51 Goat Cheese Pavé With Honey Gelée
WINE
57 Brie Cheesecake With Apple Butter
96 His Own Man Winemaker Christian Moreau taps his
61 Époisses Époisses Toast family’s historic vineyards to produce some of Chablis’ most
64 Manchego Apple, Fennel, Manchego Salad distinctive, site-specific wines • Bruce Sanderson
67 Swiss Cubano Sandwich
70 Cheddar Macaroni and Cheese
73 Gouda Walnut-Gouda Soufflé
77 Parmigiano-Reggiano Risotto Cacio e Pepe
ANDREW PURCELL

80 Blue Cheese Duck Wings With Cheese Sauce

 30 Pachamama coffee 84 2013 white Burgundy

27 Visit Marqués de Riscal 96 Chablis’ Domaine Moreau

Grapevine Departments
19 News 2015 Bordeaux futures fuel speculation 9 This Issue Marvin R. Shanken

21 World Justin clears old oaks; Barolo’s Vietti sold 15 Feedback

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: PAUL KITAGAKI JR./THE SACRAMENTO BEE/ZUMA PRESS; ANDREW MCCAUL; JON WYAND

24 People Tour d’Argent’s André Terrail • Samantha Falewée 37 James Laube Paul Draper’s Ridge legacy

27 Travel Wine harvest festivals 2016 40 Matt Kramer A case against natural wine

30 Coffee The mother of fair-trade coffee • Mark Pendergrast 42 James Molesworth Challenges on Long Island

32 Wine Focus Italy’s Basilicata • Alison Napjus 148 FAQ Chardonnay

34 Savvy Shopper Italian offerings, French finds, Spanish

specialties • Bruce Sanderson

COVER PHOTOGRAPH BY ANDREW PURCELL.

Food styling by Carrie Purcell. Cheese knives available at Formaggio Kitchen.

139 Reviews of wines from Spain
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 THIS ISSUE

Cheese and Wine

T
here’s an old saying in the wine trade:
“Buy on apples, sell on cheese.”
The juicy acidity of apples acts like a
spotlight, revealing any flaws in the
wine. But the creamy softness of cheese
smoothes over and conceals any problems. Which is
kind of a negative way of expressing a basic truth
about taste: Wine loves cheese.
There may be a physiological basis to this attrac-
tion. Researchers at the Monell Chemical Senses
Center in Philadelphia have found that the astrin-
gency of wine tannins creates a drying sensation in
the mouth; the fat in cheeses delivers a creamy sensa-
tion that brings the palate back into balance.
Cultural factors also play into these affinities.
Cheeses, like wines, are products of local terroirs and
traditions, and “what grows together, goes together.”
The Loire Valley’s aged goat cheeses and lively
Sancerres are an example of a classic pairing.
But however the matches are made, it’s fun to play
the field. In this issue, we celebrate great cheeses and
the wines that make them taste even better. Senior editor Bruce Sanderson, our lead taster on the wines of
Ten cheeses take the spotlight. You’ll learn about their histo- Burgundy, focuses on the region’s 2013 whites in his report. Af-
ries, production techniques and taste profiles, in primers by our ter reviewing nearly 400 wines, Sanderson writes, “If you are a
cheese columnist David Gibbons, author of several books on fan of vibrant, acid-driven white Burgundy, 2013 is a vintage to
cheese. Then each cheese is showcased in a recipe from a top explore.” More than 200 whites earned outstanding ratings, and
chef. Features editor Owen Dugan recruited the chefs and Sanderson rates the vintage as a whole at 90 points.
worked with them to find dishes that bring out the best in the California Pinot Noir and white Burgundy are among the
cheeses yet remain accessible to home cooks. most food-friendly of wines and both are perennial favorites on
And, of course, you’ll find plenty of suggestions for delicious restaurant wine lists. If you enjoy dining out, we encourage you
wine pairings. First, the sommeliers who work alongside the to download our new Restaurant Awards app, available for iOS.
chefs recommend a wine to drink with the dish. Then in order It’s free and easy to use! Offering extensive information for the
to broaden the options, our tasting department offers alternatives more than 3,500 restaurants around the world that hold Wine
that deliver excellent value and may be easier to find. Spectator awards for their wine programs, it’s a useful tool for
We hope you’ll try some of the dishes and matching wines. Let any wine lover.
us know what you think.

T
he issue also includes two tasting reports, analysing recent
releases of California Pinot Noir and white Burgundy,
respectively. Marvin R. Shanken
California Pinot Noir’s success has drawn ever more players, Editor and Publisher
ranging from small start-ups to ambitious new ventures from es-
tablished producers. The result, according to senior editor James
Laube, our lead taster for the wines, is a happy mix of uniformly
high quality and a diversity of styles. Laube has reviewed more
than 550 Pinots in the past year, mainly from 2013 and 2014,
DAVID YELLEN

and finds plenty to like in both vintages, with nearly 200 wines Thomas Matthews
rating an outstanding 90 points or higher on our 100-point scale. Executive Editor

SEPT. 30, 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 9

 A Publication of M. Shanken Communications, Inc.

m arvin r. s hankEn • Editor and Publisher

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READERS REMEMBER MONDAVI
Readers respond to senior editor James Laube’s profile of vintner
Robert Mondavi and his storied impact on Napa Valley winemak-
ing, on the occasion of the 50th anniversary of the founding of
Robert Mondavi Winery. (“The Enduring Legacy of Robert Mon-
davi,” cover, July 31).
I thoroughly enjoyed your
wonderful tribute to Robert
Mondavi. It brought back
many memories. I knew
Robert when I was a teen-
ager in the 1950s at my
grandmother’s home at Lark-
mead. My family, the Salmi-
nases, owned Larkmead
Winery until 1943 and they
were close friends with Rob-
ert when he started out
at Sunny St. Helena
Winery in the 1930s.
Robert was everything
you wrote in your tribute
and more. Very late in
her life I met a woman
named Romilda Peri
Gould, whose husband,
Francis “Paco” Gould,
was something of a bon
vivant (he spent half the
year in Switzerland). In
1949, he became public
relations director for
Charles Krug, the first
time any winery had
such a role, and for 30 years
published the newsletter
Bottles and Bins. I think Krug
revolutionized the California
wine industry in the 1950s
with the development of
Chenin Blanc, a fruity white
wine that replaced many of
the supersweet German-style
wines and the fortified wines
that were in vogue then.
All this was Robert’s doing;
Charles Krug truly dominated
the small Napa Valley indus-
try in the 1950s and 1960s. I
was away in the army when
the split occurred, and I know
FEEDBACK
the bank was going to fore-
close on their home, the
Rossini ranch and wine cel-
lar that had been in Mari-
louise’s family for three gen- family planted many acres
erations. Robert bought the
home and gave it to them;
as far as I know, Marilouise
all the old wine families in still lives there.
the valley ended up taking I do quibble a bit with the Schoonmaker bottled Napa
sides. Ours sided with Robert. description of Napa Valley
Not only was Robert before [WWII] as “the dark
Mondavi the visionary you ages” Very little sweet wine
described, he was a man of was produced in the valley
great generosity. He once in those years (it was Cen-
gave me two bottles of Krug tral Valley), and the vine-
wine that had been featured yards were long restored
at a White House dinner, from phylloxera. It is true
because he knew I liked that wine was not the main
“NOT ONLY WAS
ROBERT MONDAVI THE
VISIONARY YOU
DESCRIBED, HE WAS
A MAN OF GREAT
GENEROSITY. HE ONCE
GAVE ME TWO BOTTLES
OF WINE THAT HAD
BEEN FEATURED AT
A WHITE HOUSE
DINNER.”
—Tony Quinn
Napa wines. (My relatives agricultural crop in the val-
drank it all, I was too young ley; I did a study on this and French at St. Helena High
to drink!) found that chickens were
But more importantly, he the main agricultural crop
saved the Hanns Kornell in 1940. I well remember
home for Hanns and his acres of prune orchards, and
wife, Marilouise, when the much of the valley was sim-
Hanns Kornell Champagne ply open fields. My uncle
Cellars went bankrupt in and I used to hunt squirrels
1991. I had known Hanns where the Three Palms
since he bought the Lark- Vineyard is today. The palm
mead plant in 1958 and I al- trees and a row of old mul-
ways admired him, a Ger- berries were all that re-
man Jewish immigrant who mained of the once elegant
nearly perished at Dachau Lillie Coit estate.
and came to America with That said, Napa did pro-
$2 in his pocket. In 1991, duce some high quality
wines in the 1930s. J. Walter
Thompson designed a new
art deco label for Larkmead
in 1934, and the Salminas
of Cabernet and other top
varieties that remained there
long after. Eastern wine
merchants such as Frank
wines under their own la-
bels. Napa had a bit of a
boom after 1939 when the
war cut off European wines
for the [U.S.] trade.
At the time of the war,
the “Big Four” Napa winer-
ies–Beringer, Beaulieu Vine-
yard, Inglenook and Lark-
mead (we were the
smallest)–were all still
owned by the immigrant
families that founded
them. Robert was able
to build on the founda-
tion of quality wines
that they’d laid.
I almost fell out of my
chair laughing at Mr.
Shanken’s description of
the El Bonita Motel in
St. Helena. Yes, I stayed
there for $15 a night, in
the 1920s-decor rooms
with no TV. In the
1930s, my mother
taught Italian, Spanish and
School. Every time she
drove by the El Bonita she
would complain about the
mixed Spanish genders; it
should be El Bonito or La
Bonita, not El Bonita.
Thank you again for such
a wonderful article on such
a fine gentleman.
Tony Quinn
Sacramento, Calif.
I loved Marvin Shanken’s
[Editor’s Letter] on his
first meeting with Robert
SEPT. 30, 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 15
 FEEDBACK
Mondavi, especially the piece about the
bartender who would not serve him a
drink. I am glad they could laugh about
it. I too used to stay at the Clift Hotel
and never had a problem with them
way back in the early ’60s (of course I
never had long hair either). I even had
a subscription to Wine Spectator before
Marvin bought it and upgraded it to
today’s standard.
Fred Stephens
Indian Springs Village, Ala.
Bravo to Wine Spectator and James
Laube for this in-depth look and trib-
ute. Robert Mondavi’s contributions to
the American wine industry, and con-
sumers, are almost immeasurable. Your
story provides an excellent account of
his tangible achievements and contri-
butions, which are remarkable by any-
one’s standards. I say “tangible” because
you cannot tally the countless number
of us who have been inspired and moti-
vated by him to improve the image
and quality of wine (especially Caber-
net Sauvignon) in America as a world-
class, daily beverage. Robert Mondavi’s
life has touched us all, whether we real-
ize it or not.
Glenn Hudson
Massapequa, N.Y.
Your 50th anniversary tribute to the
Robert Mondavi Winery was special
and brought back many fond memories.
There are so many innovations from
the man and his commitment that
Napa Valley wine could be elevated to
world-class stature. He created systems
where grape quality could be measured
and rewarded, including Brix levels and
bottle price formulas where the growers
were incentivized to put their grapes
into Reserve programs. He asked his
winemakers to work with contract and
in-house growers to define the potential
of each vineyard.
Michael Walsh
Founder, Walsh Vineyards Management
Cambria, Calif.
Bravo, Wine Spectator, on capturing
the essence of a great man. His warm
16 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. 30, 2016
personality was, indeed, his strong suit,
as was his often-overlooked great sense
of humor. I saw Mondavi speak once at
the University Club of NYC in 2001.
As he got up to the podium to speak,
he began to cough. He was offered a
glass of water, which he drank, and his
cough subsided. He immediately took
the microphone in hand and without
losing a beat said, “Thank you, but I
would have much preferred a glass of
Mondavi Fumé Blanc!”
Samuel Ritter
Flat Rock, N.C.
I wish to compliment Mr. Shanken and
the Wine Spectator staff on the thor-
ough and comprehensive stories on
Robert Mondavi in [the July 31 issue].
Bob was a wonderful, creative man and
had the single greatest influence Cali-
fornia’s wine industry as well as the
world’s. I have long been a drinker and
collector of California Cabernet, start-
ing with my first case, a 1960 Ingle-
nook. As a result of this passion, I have
saved at least one bottle from every
vintage of Mondavi Cab and Opus
One. I was fortunate to attend a
birthday party on the occasion of Bob’s
80th, probably because I was the only
person around that could furnish bot-
tles of the 1966, ’68, ’69, ’70 and ’74
vintages for tasting. It was there that I
shared with him that I had a complete
vertical of all years. He graciously
agreed to sign and date each for me and
continued to do so until he was no lon-
ger able. Michael signed the last three
vintages until the company was sold.
Again, my congratulations to the
Mondavi organization, the family and
to Wine Spectator.
John Hamilton
Newport Beach, Calif.
Questions and Comments
If you have a comment on a story or a question
about wine, we would like to hear from you. Please
keep your letters brief and be sure to include your
name, address and telephone number (not for pub-
lication). We reserve the right to edit letters for
clarity. Write to us at Letters, Wine Spectator,
825 Eighth Ave., 33rd Floor, New York, NY
10019; send a fax to (212) 684-5424; or e-mail
us at letters@winespectator.com.
 GRAPEVINE WINE FOOD PEOPLE COL L ECT I NG

Bordeaux Faces Changing Marketplace

T
he 2015 vintage could be Bor- die-hard fans can find them. Johnson
deaux’s best in five years. It Ho, owner of Pantheon Wine
could also be a watershed Shoppe in Chicago, invested
moment for Bordeaux sales $80,000 in futures in 2012, only to
in America. Over the past de- see demand collapse. “I sold less than
cade, sales of top classified-growths 10 percent of that vintage,” says Ho,
slowed as prices rose and consumers who hasn’t bought futures since.
looked elsewhere. Yet Bordeaux sales The way classified-growths are
grew dramatically in the U.S. last year, sold—two years before bottling, by
fueled not by first-growths, but by a network of négociants—adds to
less-famous wineries, which are of- the challenges. “Bordeaux doesn’t
fering ever more bang for the buck. have national importers building
Barrel tastings of the 2015s con- brands in the United States,” says
ducted by Wine Spectator this spring Barbara Hermann, fine wine buyer
revealed that the vintage offers the at Chicago-area chain Binny’s Bev-
potential for outstanding quality. erage Depot. “That’s partly why it’s
When the futures campaign began in faded from the attention of many
May, wine merchants knew that customers. There’s no real network
prices were going to rise compared to out there promoting these wines.”
the 2014s, but hoped château owners However, wines from the Bor-
would keep increases to 15 percent. deaux Supérieur and Côtes de Bor-
That optimism quickly evaporated. deaux appellations, as well as the
Pape Clément’s 19 percent rise from Château Margaux petits châteaus, are seeing sales grow.
its 2014 price to $80 a bottle at retail Total Bordeaux shipments to the
and Léoville Barton’s 21 percent jump to $70 a bottle seemed reason- United States reached $225 million last year—up 108 percent from
able. Then Lynch Bages arrived at about $110, 37 percent higher. Pi- 2010, according to Impact Databank. Statistics aren’t available for the
chon-Longueville Baron and Haut-Bailly both increased prices by 51 petits châteaus, but shipments of Bordeaux Supérieur are up 78 percent
percent. First-growth Château Margaux released at $550 a bottle, a 70 from 2010 to 2015. Côtes de Bordeaux shipments rose by 81 percent.
percent jump, and Haut-Brion, Mouton-Rothschild and Lafite Roths- At BevMo, which operates 158 stores in California, Arizona and
child released at similar prices. La Mission Haut-Brion arrived at lead- Washington, Bordeaux is performing well. “We’ve seen a strong re-
ing U.S. retailers for about $390, a 104 percent increase on the 2014. bound,” says BevMo senior vice president of wine Bob Paulinski.
Despite the hikes, stores that specialize in futures saw cautious inter- “Growth is robust across the board, but the most significant progress is
est. “The reasonably priced wines are selling,” says Clyde Beffa, vice in the $20-to-$40 range.”
president and sales director at K&L Wine Merchants in California. Everyday Bordeaux has been driving substantial growth at Binny’s 33
“Château Malescot St.-Exupéry rose by about 12 percent. Pape Clément stores. “I’m buying thousands of cases of Bordeaux that retail from $9.99
came out early in the campaign, and we’ve sold a lot of it.” to $10.99 a bottle,” says Hermann. “It’s a sleeper business, but we see
Even the most expensive wines are must-buys for a select group of con- high demand for everyday-drinking Bordeaux. We also have a lot of
sumers. “The first-growths will sell without a problem,” predicts Chris excellent Bordeaux at $30 to $50.”
Adams, CEO of Sherry-Lehmann in New York City. Washington, D.C., retailer Schneider’s doesn’t advertise Bordeaux
Bordeaux shipments to the U.S. by value peaked in 2003 at $313 mil- futures anymore. Nevetheless, it sold more than 100 cases of the 2006
lion, according to Impact Databank, a sister publication of Wine Spectator. Clos Les Lunelles, priced at $40, last year, along with many other petit
A decline accelerated when prices skyrocketed for the 2009s and 2010s. châteaus and second wines. “A good Bordeaux selling at a fair price will
Many retailers dropped out of the futures game, which means only still move,” says president Josh Genderson.
—James Molesworth, David Fleming and H. Lee Murphy, with
DEEPIX STUDIO

W I N E S P E C TATO R .CO M | Keep up with breaking news as well reporting by Carol Ward
as the people, places and happenings that wine lovers are talking about at
www.winespectator.com/093016.

SEPT. 30, 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 19

 W O R L D

Controversy Erupts Over California Oaks

J
ustin Vineyards and to county officials. A week later,
Winery ignited a fire- the county’s code enforcement
storm in California’s Paso agency issued a stop-work order.
Robles region in June, as Officials found Justin violated
fellow vintners accused the com- the rules for notifying the district
pany of devastating a 375-acre when construction began, and it
parcel, clear-cutting thousands didn’t have a permit to grade on
of old oak trees as it prepared slopes with more than a 30 per-
land for vines and a reservoir. cent grade. The Upper Salinas–
Local officials halted the work Las Tablas Resource Conserva-
to investigate, while environ- tion District, an organization
mentalists called for a boycott. tied to the U.S. Department of
Justin’s owners Stewart and Agriculture and the California
Lynda Resnick issued an apol- Department of Conservation,
ogy, saying they did not know of has terminated a permit for the
the project’s impact. reservoir’s construction, saying
“I went to a neighboring prop- Justin’s neighbors took pictures of cleared hillsides where oak trees once stood. Justin failed to disclose that there
erty to take a look and my heart would be any tree removal.
dropped out,” said Saxum winemaker Justin Jensen of Booker Vineyards. “You’re building The Resnicks issued a statement on June 24,
Smith. “Nothing but a wasteland was left. The a 6.5 million–gallon pond that will lose 50 per- apologizing and promising to donate the prop-
removal of oaks for agriculture purposes is still cent during the year to evaporation alone.” erty to a nonprofit conservation organization
legal in our county, but it was an unwritten rule But the complaints grew much louder when and plant 5,000 new oaks on their other area
that you don’t denude the landscape to plant neighbors noticed the tree removal. Matt Trev- properties. “When we learned of the terrible
when there is plenty of open land around.” isan, winemaker at Linne Calodo, was flying situation at our Sleepy Farm Road property, not
The issue is pitting neighbor against neighbor over the area in his small plane when he dis- to mention our poor reputation within the
and revealing simmering tensions in a growing covered dozens of acres of barren hills where community, we were ashamed and are sorry,”
wine region facing water issues during Califor- there used to be oaks. they said. “We were asleep at the wheel.” The
nia’s long drought. Justin Vineyards had received Founded by Justin Baldwin, Justin was bought Resnicks did not specify what went wrong.
permits to plant on its 375-acre parcel on Sleepy in 2010 by the Resnicks’ firm, the Wonderful Several of Justin’s neighbors tell Wine Spec-
Farm Road on Paso Robles’ west side and to dig Company, which owns Pom Wonderful, Fiji tator they appreciate the apology, but they’ll be
a reservoir, which the company planned to fill Water, Wonderful Pistachios and Wonderful watching to see if the winery changes its prac-
from wells in winter and draw on in summer. Halos, in addition to California wineries Land- tices. Local media reports have raised questions
Neighbors were upset about the reservoir— mark and Hop Kiln. The Resnicks are worth about whether Justin has cleared oaks from
Paso Robles has been hit hard by the drought. an estimated $4.2 billion, according to Forbes. other area properties.
“Ponds are terrible for sustainability,” said Eric On June 9, neighbors took their complaints —MaryAnn Worobiec

BAROLO’S VIETTI WINERY SOLD TO AMERICAN FAMILY

T he Barolo winery Vietti, a family-owned producer in the commune of
Castiglione Falletto dating back to 1873, was purchased by the Krause
family of Iowa in July for an undisclosed
Italy and for Barolo,” he said. “We’re looking for a long-term relationship
between our family and the Vietti family.”
Krause Holdings is the parent company
price. Enologist Luca Currado, the current of Kum & Go convenience stores, with more
manager of the estate, will remain as CEO, than 430 locations in 11 states, as well as
overseeing winemaking, while his brother- Solar Transport and a portfolio of real-
in-law Mario Cordero will continue as di- estate holdings. Krause entered the wine
rector of marketing and sales. The deal business last year, buying Barolo’s Enrico
includes the brand, the winery and 84 acres Serafino winery. Currado will consult on
of vineyards. that winery’s operations.
TOP: CRAIG HEATON; BOTTOM: COURTESY OF VIETTI

“Two great families are coming together,” Krause has also acquired nearly 30 acres
Currado told Wine Spectator. “It will allow of vines in some of Piedmont’s top sites.
us to take a big step up in quality, and [it’s] Those parcels will join Vietti’s 84 acres. Cur-
Vietti, old and new: (from left) Mario Cordero; Tanner, Sharon
a guarantee for the future.” and Kyle Krause; Elena Penna Currado; and Luca Currado rado says he and his team plan to initially
For Kyle Krause, president and CEO of use the parcels to increase the quality of
Krause Holdings, Inc., the deal fulfills a long-held desire to own a Barolo their blends, but could create new single-vineyard labels in the future.
winery. “My mother’s family is Italian, and I have always had a passion for —Bruce Sanderson

SEPT. 30, 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 21

 P E O P L E

Updating a Paris Legend

Tour d’Argent owner André Terrail brings new life to the French culinary icon

P
aris’ No. 15 Quai de la Tournelle has been home to legendary res- discussions with the maître d’hôtel. Every moment counts and every
taurant Tour d’Argent for more than two centuries, and a place of moment is an experience. Otherwise, we’re just going to be taken over
hospitality even longer: It is said that King Henry III of France had by these food-delivery companies!
his first encounter with the dining tool we call the “fork” here in the WS: What is it like to work in one of the world’s most expansive,
16th century, and soon everyone wanted to be seen with a fork. But André impressive wine cellars with wine director David Ridgway?
Terrail, the restaurant’s current owner, is just 35, and took over custodi- AT: I’m always impressed with David and the level of his expertise. I
anship of the iconic eatery in 2006 after his father, Claude, died. don’t know of many restaurants that just in terms of Champagne have
The Babson College–educated Terrail is not interested in merely watching such an amazing collection of old magnums: Krug, Roederer, Clicquot.
over a cuisine museum in the Regency-style space, which looks out on Notre There’s so much mystery around those bottles.
Dame. Earlier this year he brought on a new head chef, Philippe Labbé, pre- WS: Do you and David have plans for the wine list in the next five
viously of Paris’ Shangri-La Hotel and the to 10 years?
Chèvre d’Or, as part of a goal to recapture AT: David is going to buy a lot of the
a second Michelin star. New menus put a 2015 vintage. We have to keep the di-
fresh spin on the kitchen’s classics, and the versity going; around 40 percent of our
wine list is making more ambitious forays sales revenue comes from the wine cel-
into the traditionally less-vaunted regions lar. Wines from southern France are
of France.The venue also gave up the ar- becoming more interesting, and in the
ticle historically prefacing its name, though Loire Valley there are many small vine-
Parisians still call it La Tour. yards and regions that still have a lot
Terrail is the third in his line to guide the to offer.
restaurant, which the family bought in WS: Tour d’Argent recently hired chef
1911. Its cellar now boasts 350,000 bottles Philippe Labbé. What are the best
and 14,000 selections, with some vintages qualities he brings to the kitchen?
dating to 1788. Tour d’Argent has received AT: His creativity and his understand-
Wine Spectator’s highest honor, the Grand ing and respect for tradition and
Award, every year since 1986. heritage. He is very relaxed with his
Terrail spoke with Wine Spectator edi- know-how and doesn’t feel like he has
torial assistant Samantha Falewée about to prove anything anymore.
growing up at one of the world’s great din- WS: What changes is he bringing to
ing destinations and the evolution of wine the menu?
and food at the famously traditional AT: We’re keeping the classic menu but
restaurant. tweaking it, especially the presenta-
tion. Aside from that we will have a
Wine Spectator: You lived at No. 15. five-course duck menu. The idea is to
What was your childhood like? go back to our roots. We’re renaming
André Terrail: Actually, the restaurant the [signature pressed-duck dish] “Can-
scared me. It was very vivid; there were eton de Frédéric Delair,” for the name
plenty of people and customers. It was a of the owner of the Tour before my
very scary circus going on around me, André Terrail grandfather, and the one who codified
with those precise methods. And the the recipe.
kitchen was so lively. In the past the cooks used to scream much more WS: Can you tell me about some of the most memorable guests you’ve
than they do today. But in the end, my father made it a very fun place, met at Tour d’Argent?
and we spent a lot of time with him. AT: One day we had two customers who had biked for four days from
By my father’s side I had the opportunity of not only traveling in southern France to Paris and dropped off their bicycles outside the
France but tasting the very best food available at restaurants. Everyone Tour for lunch. Another time, there were two women having lunch
has things they don’t like, but I like everything. I love to try, love to taste. and one of them had beautiful long hair. The other woman told me,
WS: Exceptional hospitality is one of the things Tour d’Argent is “My friend had very bad cancer and went through chemotherapy, and
known for. Have you seen changes in the perception of hospitality I said, ‘Once you get over it, I’ll take you to the Tour d’Argent.’ And
in the dining industry? she got through it.” Some of these stories are very touching. The Tour
AT: It’s definitely our biggest challenge to remain prestigious but main- d’Argent is a meeting place—a place of celebration and a place of
tain an atmosphere that is extremely welcoming, if not fun. Luxury goes happiness, and we’re happy to keep this going.
very well with fun. It’s the key to the future. It’s where we’re going.
The expectations of the customers change constantly. We want to W I N E S P E C TATO R .CO M
make sure we have an almost theaterlike experience, where things are Get more insights into dining, wine pairing and food trends from leading res-
taurateurs, sommeliers and chefs in our online Talk interviews. Find them at
a bit surprising and there are new things in the food, the wine, even the www.winespectator.com/people.

24 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. 30, 2016

 T R A V E L

Wine Harvest Festivals

T
hey don’t call it “crush” for nothing. Harvest is the busiest time
of year in the wine world. Optimum picking time needs to be
determined, large and usually temporary labor forces are lined
up, and the fruit has to get from vine to winery before it degen-
erates. There’s no more crucial time for winemakers, and that brief
window can determine the success of the entire vintage. So forgive
wineries for not wanting to host tours then. However, some places
throw their doors wide open, and some regions use the time to host
tasting events and dinners. Following is a collection from around the
world offering differing levels of involvement.

A tasting at Schramsberg

SCHRAMSBERG FALL HARVEST

Hotel Marqués de Riscal
RIOJA WINE HARVEST FESTIVAL
Website www.lariojaturismo.com
Every year, in the last days of September, Rioja’s capital city of Logroño celebrates the feast
day of San Mateo and welcomes the new harvest. Go explore Logroño’s iconic pincho bars,
which serve the Basque-influenced version of tapas speared with toothpicks. You can find
the region’s crianza and reserva selections, but also anomalies like salmon-pink clarete from
the nearby town of San Asensio. One of Logroño’s best-known wineries, Bodegas Franco-
Españolas, is within walking distance of the city center.
But the festivities of parading, drinking, eating and bull-running grow loud at night. To re-
tire in peace, have a car sent from Hotel Marqués de Riscal, a work of art from architect Frank
Gehry that undulates in titanium ribbons of pink and gold to represent—what else?—wine
flowing from a bottle. The hotel is an offshoot of the original winery, which still stands and
operates close by. The Epicurean Experience package includes, among other things, a guided
winery tour and tasting menu in the namesake restaurant. For the wine pairings, guests can
choose offerings like Riscal’s Rueda Finca Montico, Rioja Finca Torrea and Rioja Gran Reserva.
The package begins at $487 per night for two people. —Samantha Falewée
WINE CAMP
Website www.schramsberg.com
There are few wineries in Napa that boast a Victorian house
and 100-plus-year-old caves. Schramsberg is one of them.
It was founded by a German barber named Jacob Schram in
1862, mostly for varietals from his homeland, and it later
changed hands to Jack and Jamie Davies. That family still
owns it today, making it a double-legacy property.
They go all out at harvest. The three-day camp ($1,300,
Sept. 11–13, lodging not included) kicks off with a
welcome dinner in the vineyards with chef and enologist
Holly Peterson, who guides additional wine and food tast-
ings during the event. Campers are up early for a picking
session with president and chief winemaker Hugh Davies,
after which the open access moves indoors for tastings of
fresh-pressed juice and base wines. Guests go off campus
to Meadowood for food-and-wine matching events and
“graduation.” And for those of you in the back row, yes, you
will learn to saber a bottle. —Owen Dugan

LOCAL LOIRE
HOTEL DINING ON THE RIVIERA MAYA Website www.festivini.com
Website www.lechiquerestaurant.com Outside of high tourist season,
The Karisma hotel group, which has properties of every stripe in the Medi- the Loire can feel a bit forgotten,
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: SARA SANGER; TIM GRAHAM/GETTY IMAGES

terranean and Caribbean, especially emphasizes its dedication to good food in a good way, with its meander-
and wine at its locations in the Riviera Maya. What sets the 400-plus-room ing river and picturesque towns.
Azul Sensatori Mexico apart is Le Chique, its elevated fine-dining restaurant, The Festival de la Culture du Vin
which was recently renovated. Chef Jonatán Gómez Luna, who has worked (Sept. 3–11) aims to draw back
at El Bulli, Noma and El Celler Can Roca, cooks forward-looking cuisine at an the curtain. Festivities run morn- Château de Saumur, on the Loire River
international level, while Petrus Coenders manages the 250-selection Award ing to night, with tastings and
of Excellence–winning wine list. hikes in the vineyards, and celebrations of local cuisine and theater. The late-night
Nearby, Karisma’s adults-only El Dorado Royale has partnered with Jack- tasting party in the Royal Abbey of Fontevraud promises a “rock ’n’ roll spirit.”
son Family Wines on a monthly Gourmet Inclusive package ($300 for five Most events are in Saumur, so you might consider staying in the elegantly ap-
days, in addition to room rates) with cooking classes and dinners featuring pointed Château de Verrières. This 19th-century mansion has just 10 rooms, so
guest chefs and wine pairings by winery representatives. —O.D. service is personal, and the 4-acre grounds are serene. Best of all for a home
away from home at a wine festival, it’s a short walk to the center of town. —O.D.

SEPT. 30, 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 27

 C O F F E E

The Mother of Direct-Trade Coffee

BY MARK PENDERGRAST

H
igh in the mountains of southwestern Gua-
temala, about 5,000 feet above sea level, the
coffee cherries of the Manos Campesinas co-
operative, not far from the village of Santa
Clara, grow on traditional Bourbon and Typica trees.
Although the trees do not produce as many cherries
as newer hybrids, their coffee is aromatic and rich,
bright with tangy acidity, showing hints of melon,
cacao and almond, with a satisfying mouthfeel that
helps the taste linger.
This coffee is unusual in another way: The beans
are roasted and sold by Pachamama Coffee Coopera-
tive (www.pacha.coop), a farmer-owned company
based in Sacramento, Calif., that is redefining the
scope of “direct-trade” coffee. The term has been
abused in the past few years; Gilles Brunner, co-
founder of online grower and roaster community Al-
grano, has called it “an empty label, a meaningless Pachamama CEO Thaleon Tremain (left) and director of coffee Ed Alagozian
marketing tool.” But Pachamama, founded in 2006
by Ohio native and former Peace Corps volunteer To lend a personal touch to the
Thaleon Tremain, practices authentic direct trade, coffee, Pachamama packaging
guiding organic beans from farmer to cup and ensur- features photos of farmers, and a
ing all profits flow back to origin, where they’re paid series of videos provides insight
out to co-op members and spent on improvements to into the lives of the cooperatives’
processing facilities, local schools and medical care. members. One clip features a
Currently, the enterprise, named after an Incan fer- farmer and a mule laden with
tility goddess, represents some 140,000 coffee-growing heavy bags of processed beans
families in Guatemala, Peru, Nicaragua, Mexico and trekking across a long bridge over
Ethiopia. And the coffee’s exceptional quality speaks a river to the co-op’s distribution
to its meticulous sourcing, processing and roasting. point. In another video, Catarina
According to a 2015 financial snapshot provided Two offerings from Pachamama Yac of Santa Clara savors her free-
by the company, Pachamama farmers get about $3 a dom as an independent, unmar-
pound for roasted coffee, and another $6 is returned as profits to the co- ried female coffee farmer; she keeps up with the coffee world through
operative. Pachamama’s board of directors, comprising one spokesperson her cell phone and regional coffee seminars.
for each of the five regional member cooperatives, represents the farm- Since its founding 10 years ago, Pachamama’s business has grown
ers and allocates profits. steadily. It now employs 15 people to roast and package the beans and
Tremain’s original concept for Pachamama was a coffee version of to sell brewed coffee at the company’s Sacramento café. “We’re only a
popular community-supported agriculture (CSA) programs, in which block from a Starbucks and Peet’s, but we’re doing fine,” Tremain notes.

TOP: PAUL KITAGAKI JR./THE SACRAMENTO BEE/ZUMA PRESS; BOTTOM: COURTESY OF FARM FRESH TO YOU
consumers subscribe to regular purchases of produce from local farms. “Give customers an option and many will choose to support farmers
The subscription model is still the company’s primary outlet, but now when they can.” He plans to open other cafés, perhaps in San Francisco,
you can also make one-time purchases. The roasted Santa Clara beans Washington, D.C., or overseas. For now, 70 percent of the company’s
cost $19 for 12 ounces, including shipping—a price that compares fa- revenues come from national wholesale accounts, many with food co-
vorably with those of other specialty roasters such as Counter Culture operatives, but retail sales and direct sales online are picking up.
Coffee and Intelligentsia. Under the direction of Jake Sockolov, a young wine and coffee spe-
In addition to the Guatemalan beans, I sampled superb Yirgacheffe cialist, Pachamama is about to launch La Reserva, a monthly subscrip-
from Ethiopia, grown at around 6,000 feet above sea level by the large tion to two single-origin coffees, with tasting notes. Sockolov plans to
Oromia cooperative. The coffee offered a honeylike sweetness, notes of feature the Yirgacheffe among his first selections; he praises the “subtle
lemon and wild blueberry, pleasing acidity and an underlying hint of understatement” of the beans, comparable to an elegant Burgundy.
cedar oil. At $20 for 10 ounces, this extraordinary coffee is a bit more Given its ambition and ever-expanding purview, Pachamama is fast
expensive than the Santa Clara, but well worth it. developing into a textbook example of farmer-owned coffee ventures.
To get a sense of the range of Pachamama’s offerings, you might try With ethical practices buttressed by stunning results in the cup, direct
the $50 sampler box, consisting of 6-ounce bags from each of the five trade in this case feels less like a moral obligation than an acknowledg-
origin countries. An assortment of blends of those origins (and with ment of superior quality. A good cause never tasted so rich.
different roast levels) is available as well. You can also buy green beans Mark Pendergrast is the author of Uncommon Grounds, a history of
and roast them yourself. coffee, and Beyond Fair Trade.

30 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. 30, 2016

 W I N E
Big Reds From Southern Italy
The Aglianico grape shines with expressive versions from Basilicata
BY ALISON NAPJUS
B
y the numbers, Basilicata in southern Italy is just a blip on the
radar screen. But although it contributes less than 1 percent of
Italy’s total wine production, its output shines based on the re-
cent performance of wines from the region’s top DOC: Aglianico
del Vulture. I have blind-tasted more than 80 wines from the Basilicata
region over the past year, and over one-third received an outstanding
score of 90 points or higher on Wine Spectator’s 100-point scale. (A free
alphabetical list of scores and prices for all wines tasted is available at
www.winespectator.com/093016.)
All of these outstanding wines were from Aglianico del Vulture; at 93
points, this report’s highest rating goes to the grippy San Martino Kamai
2011 ($48). To produce this top bottling, San Martino owner and wine-
maker Lorenzo Piccin uses fruit from 50- to 60-year-old vines. The wine
spends almost a year and a half in a mix of tonneau and barrique, as well
Aglianico vineyards cover the hilly landscape of Basilicata, in southern Italy.
as three years aging in bottle before release. It’s a tightly knit, dense ver-
sion, yet it offers expressive crushed black cherry and herb notes.
The profile of the Kamai is a textbook example of the Aglianico grape,
which typically shows bright red and black fruit accented by savory spice,
herb and balsamic notes. A thick-skinned variety with high natural acid-
ity, it is well-suited to southern Italy’s Mediterranean climate. Harvest is
typically at the end of October or early November, and the grapes need
long, sunny summer days to ripen their flavors and formidable tannins.
Basilicata sits at the instep of the Italian boot, and is almost entirely
landlocked. It shares its western border with Campania and a sliver of the
Tyrrhenian Sea, and its eastern border with Puglia and a small coastline
along the Ionian Sea. The region of Calabria lies to the south. Nearly half
of Basilicata is made up of mountains, and the majority of the rest of the
land is hilly. As a result, many vineyards are located at higher altitudes,
including the Aglianico del Vulture DOC, which is centered on the ex-
tinct volcano of Mount Vulture at the northeastern tip of the region.
“The volcano gives a strong personality to the wine,” says Christian
Scrinzi, head winemaker at Terre degli Svevi. “But there are also more
important factors, like diurnal temperatures. It’s never very hot, and it’s
always struck by light.”
32 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. 30, 2016
F O C U S
Vulture’s dark volcanic soil is free-draining and mineral-rich, impart-
ing concentration and structure to the wines made from grapes grown
in the area. The sweet spot for Aglianico is in vineyards that sit on
Mount Vulture’s southeastern-facing slopes roughly between 1,000 and
1,600 feet, where cooler temperatures prevail. The growing season and
harvest regularly see temperatures in the 70s during the day and the low
60s at night, and these sites also enjoy abundant sunshine to promote
ripening in the Aglianico grapes.
“Vulture is different,” says Elena Fucci, who produced a sleek example
with her namesake estate’s 2013 Titolo (90, $38). “It’s in the middle of
the mountain. Winter is very cold, and spring and summer are very
fresh, with a large diurnal difference—this is very important for the
freshness and minerality.”
For more than 30 years, Aglianico del Vulture was Basilicata’s only
DOC area. However, in the last
10 to 15 years, three new DOCs
have been approved: Grottino di
Roccanova, Matera and Terre
dell’Alta Val d’Agri. Also, Agli-
anico del Vulture Superiore and
Superiore Riserva were granted
DOCG status in 2010. These are
wines made from riper grapes
from the best sites in the DOC
area, and they see additional ag-
ing before release.
Though the framework is now
in place for more bottlings from
DOC areas, the current reality is
that roughly 18 percent of the
region’s wine is produced from
the general Basilicata IGT and
62 percent as vino da tavola. This
includes some very good examples, such as d’Angelo’s plush red Basili-
cata Canneto 2012 (89, $28) or Cantine del Notaio’s juicy Basilicata
Rosato Il Rogito 2014 (89, $20). But even though these categories give
the region’s producers freedom to explore different grape varieties and
wine styles, they make it hard for consumers to know what to expect
from one bottle to the next.
Luckily for wine drinkers in the United States, available bottlings are
dominated by versions from the Aglianico del Vulture DOC. As an
added bonus, many of these wines offer good value. Look for Macarico’s
Aglianico del Vulture 2011 (91, $20), Grifalco della Lucania’s Gricos
2012 (90, $17) and Bisceglia’s Gudarrà 2012 (90, $25). I enjoyed these
wines for their combination of ripe fruit, savory spice and mineral char-
acter, with a freshness that helped to balance firm tannic structure.
“The first message is to tell people about Basilicata,” says Viviana
Malafarina, winemaker at Basilisco. “To do this label by label is hard.
But our wineries are working more and more in positive competition,
and the quality of the wines is growing. … Minerality, altitude, fresh-
ness. That is my south of Italy.”
STEFANO SCATÀ
Senior editor Alison Napjus is Wine Spectator’s lead taster on the wines
of Basilicata.
 W I N E F O C U S

ALISON NAPJUS’ RECOMMENDED WINES FROM BASILICATA

More than 80 wines were reviewed for this report. A free alphabetical list is available at www.winespectator.com/093016.
WineSpectator.com members can access complete reviews for all wines tasted using the online Wine Ratings search.

WINE SCORE PRICE WINE SCORE PRICE

SAN MARTINO Aglianico del Vulture Kamai 2011 93 $48 VIGNETI DEL VULTURE Aglianico del Vulture 91 $38
A grippy red, with taut tannins wrapped in expressive crushed black Piano del Cerro 2011
cherry, red licorice and dried thyme notes. This is firm and focused, A toasty red, rippling with candied cassis and black cherry fruit, offer-
yet harmonious overall. ing accents of mocha and mint, underscored by tarry details. Opulent,
but fresh and harmonious.
CANTINE DEL NOTAIO Aglianico del Vulture Il Sigillo 2010 92 $75
A rich red, featuring dried mint, eucalyptus and ground pink pepper- D’ANGELO Aglianico del Vulture 2012 90 $20
corn notes accenting the flavors of damson plum preserves, licorice The black cherry and fresh earth flavors are focused in this harmoni-
and olive tapenade. ous red, accented by black olive, fig bread and dried herb notes.

PATERNOSTER Aglianico del Vulture Rotondo 2011 92
Lovely and aromatic, with ripe fruit, floral and tar notes, this chewy
red offers bright acidity and flavors of baked cherry, leather, dried fig
and herb, underscored by hints of fresh, loamy earth.
SAN MARTINO Aglianico del Vulture Arberesko 2013 92
There’s a subtle ferrous edge to this focused red, accenting flavors of
crushed blackberry, spice box, dried fig, hot stone and balsamic.
A harmonious version, framed by supple tannins and bright acidity.
TERRE DEGLI SVEVI Aglianico del Vulture Re Manfredi 2011 92
Dense and smoky, this brooding red features a core of steeped cherry,
cocoa powder, tobacco, fig bread and ground spice flavors. Calls for
grilled beef now, but this could use some time in the cellar.
D’ANGELO Aglianico del Vulture Valle del Noce 2010 91
Fig cake and mocha accents enrich ripe notes of spiced cherry and
wild strawberry, while silky tannins and notes of wild herb and loamy
earth drive the juicy finish.
$50 BISCEGLIA Aglianico del Vulture Gudarrà 2012 90 $25
A grippy, medium-bodied red, offering well-knit flavors of black olive,
dried cranberry and graphite, with a smoky, minerally underpinning.
GRIFALCO DELLA LUCANIA Aglianico del Vulture Gricos 2012 90 $17
$35 This is medium-bodied and focused, with sleek tannins and well-
spiced flavors of raspberry puree, dried marjoram and orange zest.
MADONNA DELLE GRAZIE Aglianico del Vulture Liscone 2010 90 $18
Lavender and dusty ground spice accent raspberry compote, tarry
$35 mineral and dried thyme notes in this red framed by chewy tannins.
CANTINE DEL NOTAIO Basilicata Rosato Il Rogito 2014 89 $20
Offers wild strawberry and cherry fruit layered with juicy acidity and
accents of candied kumquat, Asian five-spice powder and smoke.
$30
BASILISCO Aglianico del Vulture Teodosio 2011 88 $19
Tar and dried herb notes on the nose underscore creamed cherry, fig
cake, star anise and candied orange zest in this medium-bodied red.

CAMERLENGO Aglianico del Vulture 2009 91 $33 BASILISCO Sophia White NV 88 $19

Well-spiced and lively, with dark and tangy wild berry and herb Offers hints of fresh earth, dogwood blossom and white truffle,
flavors accented by mandarin orange peel and ground pink pepper- complemented by ripe Honeycrisp apple and pear flavors.
corn notes. DE LEONARDIS Aglianico del Vulture Piano del Moro 2011 88 $18
CARBONE Aglianico del Vulture 400 Some 2011 91 $25 This shows balance and a fresh mix of dried cranberry and cherry
A savory red, with wild herb, tar and black olive accents, as well as fruit, smoke, dried herb and mandarin orange peel flavor.
cassis and dried fig flavors, wrapped around grippy tannins. Bright GRIFALCO DELLA LUCANIA Basilicata Rosato Frà 2015 88 $16
and focused, presenting a well-spiced, chewy finish. A rich rosé, with bright acidity, light tannins and a creamy palate of
DE LEONARDIS Aglianico del Vulture Masculetum 2011 91 $25 plumped cherry, star anise, almond, dried herb and fleur de sel.
Tomato leaf and wild herb aromatics lead to flavors of strawberry MACARICO Aglianico del Vulture Macarì 2013 88 $17
preserves and prune in this grippy, plushly textured red. Balanced, Ground spice and cured tobacco are an aromatic entry point for this
with Earl Grey tea and orange bergamot accents on the finish. elegant Aglianico. Spicy mineral notes echo on the chewy palate.
LELÙSI Aglianico del Vulture 2005 91 $35 MASTRODOMENICO Basilicata Mos 2012 88 $19
This aging red is still fresh and focused, with a sanguine edge to the The richly tarry nose of this dry red is layered with flavors of sun-dried
dried cherry, loamy earth, star anise and singed orange peel flavors. currant, grilled herb, mocha and spice, and burly tannins.
Well-knit and lightly chewy, offering a subtle finish.
D’ANGELO Basilicata Sacravite 2013 87 $15
TENUTA DEL PORTALE Aglianico del Vulture 91 $27 Herb, spice box and graphite define this light-bodied, aromatic red.
Le Vigne a Capanno 2011
Candied raspberry and plumped cherry fruit notes leap from the glass BISCEGLIA Aglianico del Vulture Terra di Vulcano 2013 87 $13
of this well-knit red, leading to savory leather and grilled herb, mocha Medium-bodied, with notes of dried cranberry, tobacco and star anise.
and spice accents on the creamy palate.
VIGNETI DEL VULTURE Greco-Fiano Basilicata Pipoli 2015 87 $15
TERRE DEGLI SVEVI Aglianico del Vulture 91 $49 A light-bodied white, with apricot, green pear and candied orange.
Re Manfredi Serpara 2010
TENUTA I GELSI Basilicata Gelso Rosso 2014 86 $16
Tar and smoke notes lead the way in this muscular red, underscoring
Candied raspberry and crème de cassis flavors are up-front and lively.
flavors of plumped black cherry, bittersweet chocolate, dried thyme,
and graphite. VIGNETI DEL VULTURE Basilicata Rosato Pipoli 2015 86 $15
Bright, tangy, with candied black cherry and dried strawberry fruit.

SEPT. 30, 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 33

 S A V V Y S H O P P E R

VIVA ITALIA TRIMBACH Riesling Alsace Réserve 2014 (91,

SPECTATOR
Italy is awash in native grapes. With more than $28) Bone-dry; white peach, acacia blossom,
500 known varieties, no other country comes Meyer lemon zest, petrol SELECTIONS
close. Here is a short list, including a few of my DOMAINE DES BAUMARD Savennières 2014
favorites. The Barbaresco is Nebbiolo and the (90, $26) Salted butter, white peach, quince
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
Dogliani is Dolcetto from one of its masters. CHÂTEAU D’EPIRÉ Savennières 2014 (90,
93 Álvaro
$21) Creamed yellow apple, mirabelle plum,
Palacios
MARCO & VITTORIO Adriano Barbaresco quince, salted butter, talc, almond
Priorat Les
Sanadaive 2012 (93, $32) Juicy, dense; cherry, CHÂTEAU DE GAUDOU Malbec Cahors Terrasses
plum, leather, tobacco, stone, chalk Renaissance Cuvée Boisée 2013 (90, $22) 2014 $40
ROCCA DI FABBRI Montefalco Sagrantino Full-bodied; raspberry torte, black cherry SPAIN This graceful
2011 (93, $32) Dried fig, graphite, black olive, red shows good
herb, tar, mineral; dense, tight depth, balancing
LA BRACCESCA Syrah Cortona Achelo 2014 SKETCHES OF SPAIN juicy cherry and
(92, $22) Elegant; smoky cherry, strawberry, Here’s a quick tour of several of Spain’s most berry flavors with
raspberry, mineral, tobacco, black pepper exalted regions and styles, from Rioja in the notes of vanilla, mountain herb and mineral.
CARBONE Aglianico del Vulture 400 Some north to Sherry in the south.
2011 (91, $25) Wild herb, tar, black olive,
COLLECTIBLE
cassis, dried fig; bright, chewy TELMO RODRÍGUEZ Toro Dehesa Gago 2014
TENUTA DEL PORTALE Aglianico del Vulture (91, $18) Black cherry, boysenberry, cola, 95 Philippe
Colin
Le Vigne a Capanno 2011 (91, $27) Candied mineral; ripe, muscular
Chevalier-
raspberry, cherry, leather, herb, mocha, spice BODEGAS VIÑA VILANO Ribera del Duero
Montrachet
GRIFALCO DELLA LUCANIA Aglianico del Crianza 2013 (91, $26) Concentrated, muscu- 2014 $213
Vulture Gricos 2012 (90, $17) Sleek; raspberry lar; blackberry, leafy, loamy earth, mineral FRANCE A whiff of
puree, dried marjoram, orange zest, spice CIA DES VINOS DEL ATLÁNTICO Rioja La seashore comple-
PECCHENINO Dogliani San Luigi 2015 (90, Antigua Clásico Reserva 2008 (90, $24) ments the peach,
$22) Black cherry, boysenberry, violet candy; Dried cherry, tobacco, vanilla, toasted spice, lemon and toasty
pure, intense, juicy orange peel; graceful, traditional baking spice flavors in this enticing white.
CLOS FIGUERAS Priorat Serras del Priorat
2014 (90, $21) Focused, bright; cherry, berry,
EN FRANÇAIS vanilla, mountain herb SMART BUY
If you are looking for great values from France, DELGADO ZULETA Manzanilla Sanlúcar de 90 Chalone
this selection runs the gamut. Top producers Barrameda La Goya NV (90, $16) Talc, honey- Pinot Noir
from Alsace, the Loire and the suckle, jicama, white peach; dry Chalone Gavilan
2013 $22
Rhône are represented, along
CALIFORNIA This is
with a modern take on the his-
strikingly rich and
toric appellation of Cahors. WANDERLUST complex, with
Great value from the New a dense core of
DOMAINE HUËT Vouvray Sec World is the common theme dark berry, black
Le Haut-Lieu 2015 (93, $32) among this diverse selection licorice, earth and
Ripe, racy; ginger, pear, persim- from across the globe. Cabernet cedar flavors that hold their own.
mon, quince, green almond Sauvignon figures in the three
JEAN-MICHEL GERIN Viog- reds, while the two whites pro- BEST VALUE
nier Collines Rhodaniennes long the feeling of summer. 88 Viña Santa
La Champine 2014 (91, $20) Carolina
Green fig, plum, fennel, white ERNIE ELS Cabernet Sauvi- Cabernet
peach, mineral; unctuous gnon Stellenbosch 2013 (92, Sauvignon
ALBERT MANN Pinot Gris $24) Alluring; black currant, Colchagua Valley
Reserva 2014 $11
Alsace Rosenberg 2014 (91, blackberry, charcoal, tobacco
CHILE Zesty, with
$24) Vibrant, zesty; yellow ANWILKA Petit Frère Stellen-
dried green herbal
plum, Asian pear, lemon parfait, bosch 2013 (90, $22) Ripe; fig, notes to the fresh
smoke, mineral boysenberry, plum sauce red plum and
DOMAINE DE LA MORDORÉE CHATEAU LOS BOLDOS berry flavors.
Tavel La Dame Rousse 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Alto
(91, $26) Blood orange, cherry, Cachapoal Grand Reserve
strawberry, savory, tea; juicy 2014 (90, $17) Roasted plum, IN THIS ISSUE’S BUYING GUIDE
OSTERTAG Riesling Alsace dark cherry, dried herbs; ripe You’ll find 24 classic wines and more
Vignoble d’E 2014 (91, $28) DRY CREEK Sauvignon Blanc than 425 outstanding wines from
Harmonious, delicate; melon, Dry Creek Valley 2015 (89, $18) among reviews of nearly 650 new
orange peel, almond, spice Vibrant; lemon, lime, fresh herb, releases. Tasting notes and scores for
those wines, along with more than 800
DOMAINES SCHLUMBERGER CASTELLO DI MON- green apple, green tea
additional wines reviewed since our last
Riesling Alsace Grand Cru SANTO Chianti Classico GIESEN Pinot Gris Marlbor-
issue, can be found at WineSpectator
Saering 2013 (91, $29) Dried Riserva 2013 (91, $25) ough 2015 (89, $15) Juicy; .com using the Wine Ratings search,
apricot, kumquat, melon, spice, SMART BUY Elegant; peach, floral, melon
cherry, tar, earth, mineral a members-only service.
herb, smoke, mineral; fresh —Bruce Sanderson

34 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. 30, 2016

 JAMES LAUBE

The Outsider

I
n 1969, Ridge Vineyards real- They’re able to adjust and stay strong.
ized it needed a real winemaker. Of course, any story about Ridge or
Since its founding a Draper would be incomplete without a
decade earlier, Ridge had essen- discussion of what Draper considered
tially been a weekends-only the winery’s crown jewel—the Caber-
home-winemaking operation, albeit a net Sauvignon from its home Monte
sophisticated one, and the trio of scien- Bello Vineyard. Like Ridge’s other
tists and fine-wine intellectuals who vineyards, Monte Bello is primal, trac-
owned it knew their limits. They hired ing its roots as far back as the old win-
Paul Draper, a 33-year-old former Stan- ery it overlooked. Draper and Ridge
ford philosophy student who had served embodied the Francophile spirit of cel-
in the Army and the Peace Corps and ebrating not only old vines and ancient
who, after studying French and Italian methods but also classical grapes, and
cuisine, aspired to be a winemaker. in this Château Latour offered Draper
Draper’s assured presence, his quizzi- the best model. He loved Latour and
cal mind and his passion for the kinds Cabernet as much as any Bordelais, but
of wines Ridge fancied quickly proved while Monte Bello reminded him of
the right fit. The winery modernized, the great first-growth it also had its
added new vineyards and grew in repu- own spirit, resting at a 2,300-foot ele-
tation. All the while, however, it re- vation. Another facet Draper focused
tained its cultish charm and never on was longevity: He considered how
moved into the mainstream the way In 1969 Ridge hired Paul long and well a wine aged to be a mea-
many other California wineries did. Draper, a former Stanford sure of its greatness.
It championed old-vine Zinfandel and Draper’s fascination with Cabernet
obscure reds and employed an Old
philosophy student who led him in 1971 to buy grapes from
World mentality inside its Santa Cruz aspired to be a winemaker. Milt Eisele’s vineyard in Napa Valley,
Mountains facility. It had a magical Monte Bello’s equal in stature. Eventu-
aura. Draper had landed his dream job ally the Eisele grapes went elsewhere,
and Ridge had found its new leader. but in the meantime Draper proved he could master Napa Cab-
Six decades and 47 vintages later, Draper can reflect on an ernet. In 1986, a devout Ridge lover in Japan bought the winery,
amazing career. Not only elevating Ridge to international ac- and so trusted Draper that he didn’t change a thing.
claim, he took Zinfandel, an underappreciated blending grape, While Cabernet and Zinfandel intrigued Draper, so did
to an elite level as well, rescuing the variety from insignificance Mataro, Petite Sirah and even Chardonnay, with the latter of
by demonstrating its full potential. these becoming Ridge’s little secret, overlooked by many. In
The winery also paid tribute to dozens of old vineyards in areas some vintages, the delightfully rich and stylish estate-grown
such as Sierra Foothills and Paso Robles, putting names like Dusi Chardonnays could easily pass for grand cru white Burgundy.
Ranch on the labels. Some sites, like Lytton Springs, in Dry That Ridge’s wines today are better than ever is a tribute to
Creek Valley, and Pagani Ranch, in Sonoma Valley, contained him and his successors. Draper set the bar at the highest level,
field blends of off-beat grapes planted in the 1880s that had then surrounded himself with a disciplined team that would
largely been ignored as vintners pursued trendier wines. Those challenge his marks, even as they appreciate the value of their
stumpy vines would have been plowed under in the name of prog- mentor’s stature and presence.
ress had it not been for the respect Ridge gave them. Draper be- Now 80, Draper says he is finally ready to bow out. We’ll see.
lieved that old vines were the best and yielded the most unique He has been phasing out of Ridge for the past decade, but exit-
wines. For me, old vines are like people who have lived in their ing isn’t easy. This is his life. In a sense he’s like the old Zinfan-
homes for decades. They’re predictable. They’re dependable. del vine that stubbornly refuses to surrender to the motions of
time. He remains a powerful, spiritual and inspirational figure,
W I N E S P E C TATO R .CO M and once the tempo of the next harvest gains rhythm, the draw
GREG GORMAN

In his blogs, James Laube shares updates from his recent tastings and visits might be hard for him to resist.
with winemakers, and discusses hot-button issues in the wine industry. Join
the conversation with other members at www.winespectator.com/laube. Senior editor James Laube has been with Wine Spectator since 1981.

SEPT. 30, 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 37

 MATT KRAMER

Impeccable Radical Credentials

I
was once on a long car trip harder by what has become today’s
with my wife and two visiting most powerful signifier of naturalness,
friends, one Australian, the which is a loudly proclaimed rejection
other British. The conversation of the use of sulfur.
turned to politics. I forget now Wines now are proudly sold to us as
who we were talking about, but our “no sulfur,” meaning that no sulfur has
British friend staked out a defense of been used in the winemaking process
the politician’s policies that the rest and, moreover, that none has been
of us considered preposterous. added just before bottling as a prophy-
She defended her side against our lactic against bacteria or yeasts in the
gleeful onslaughts and ended by declar- finished wine.
ing, “Well, he has impeccable radical Can such sulfur-free wines be truly
credentials.” With that we all con- superior? Yes, they can. But if my expe-
vulsed in laughter, herself included. rience is anything to go by, such an
I thought of this memorable phrase achievement is rare. There’s a reason
recently while drinking yet another so- why sulfur has been used for centuries:
called natural wine that I found, much It works. Sulfur is an effective inhibi-
as I have others, deeply disappointing. tor of off flavors and smells, as well as
Now, the term “natural wine” has an effective antioxidant.
become simultaneously a rallying cry Can you use too much of it? Yes,
for its proponents and a red flag to its you can, which is why the “no sulfur”
detractors. Rarely do I straddle fences. Why would I have problems declaration has become such a rallying
But in this case I find myself truly torn. with so-called natural wines? cry. It sounds good. It’s intellectually
Part of me is more than sympathetic appealing. It’s attractively idealistic.
to what adherents of natural wine seek,
It’s surprisingly simple: Too The problem, as is often the case, is
namely wines that have not been what many of them are unclean. one of degree.
they call “manipulated.” That, too, is I asked Kevin Harvey, the owner
a word that’s become a flash point. and guiding spirit of Rhys Vineyards,
Still, I get it. I daresay that few other writers have, over a long which is “artisanal” by anybody’s definition, about his use of sul-
span of years, written more openly than I against the habitual fur. Many tasters (myself included) consider Rhys the source of
use of such high-tech gizmos as spinning cones, vacuum concen- some of California’s finest Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays.
trators and reverse osmosis machines. “I taste a lot of our wine without sulfur while it’s in barrel,”
So why, then, would I, of all people, have problems with Harvey told me. “And I just don’t see the big deal or positive
so-called natural wines? It’s surprisingly simple: Too many of difference of no sulfur as long as the sulfur dioxide is kept low.
these wines that I have both tasted and purchased are unclean. For our part, we bottle with low SO2, around 20 [parts per mil-
They have off smells and tastes. Far from elevating wine to new lion]. That’s not much. The difference between that and zero is
heights of ethereal purity, too often this very “naturalness” de- not that meaningful, except—and this is a big exception—for the
grades that ambition. very positive effects on stability offered by that dose of low sulfur.”
It’s challenging to craft a truly clean wine from crush to bottling So why is the rallying cry of “no sulfur” so strident? It’s not
unless you’re rigorous in winery and winemaking cleanliness. Your enough anymore to pursue a vision of greater purity. Instead,
barrels must be impeccably clean. You must be obsessive in clean- that pursuit has become ideological. It becomes subject to a po-
ing winery surfaces and diligent in monitoring wines in barrel or liticized litmus test. Like all such ideological causes everywhere,
cask. And you must employ pristine bottling protocols. what previously sufficed as allegiance no longer serves an even
Is it doable? Certainly it is. But it’s harder to achieve than more radicalized contingent.
you might imagine. Here’s the kicker: Such effort is made even This is what has occurred with natural wines. It is now not
enough to actually taste your wines and conclude that they
W I N E S P E C TATO R .CO M reflect the desired purity of expression. Instead, you must have
Don’t miss Matt Kramer’s Web-exclusive essays and lively online discussions at impeccable radical credentials.
www.winespectator.com/kramer. (Only members may post comments, but
all visitors may read them.) Matt Kramer has contributed to Wine Spectator regularly since 1985.

40 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. 30, 2016

 JAMES MOLESWORTH

Coming Into Focus

L
ong Island’s wine history approach. “If I started over today, I
is, in global terms, pretty don’t know what I would leave out,”
short. Founded in the says Charles Massoud, winemaker of
1970s, it has a couple of Paumanok. “Clearly Loire varietals do
generations under its belt, well, but Bordeaux varieties do too.
but vineyards take time to mature and We’re happy with the eight different
be understood, and winemaking expe- grapes we grow.”
rience takes time to accrue. It’s fair to Long Island’s soil varies, but not
say that Long Island’s wine industry much—it’s basically a sand, silt and
remains in its early stages. clay mix. Most grapevines grow well in
Still, growth has been steady. AVAs it. But it has an Achilles heel: It drains
were drawn up in the 1980s. By the rapidly, so irrigation is needed. Also,
1990s, the North Fork had about 1,700 the generally cool climate and high
acres of vines and 21 operating winer- humidity pose some challenges.
ies. Today there are 57 wineries draw- But all these issues can be overcome
ing grapes from 2,200 acres. The South with attentive viticulture. So if distinc-
Fork (where weekend homes over- tiveness and quality are going to help
shadow vineyards) chips in with 250 Long Island distinguish itself, I believe
acres and an additional three wineries. it will come from a narrowing of focus.
Winemakers such as Bedell’s Rich- “In some ways we’re limited by the
ard Olsen-Harbich, Lieb Cellars’ Rus- fact that so many grapes can be grown
sell Hearn and the Massoud family of Long Island wineries should out here that we sometimes wind up
Paumanok all have more than 25 years dial down to what the region all over the place. It makes it more dif-
of Long Island winemaking on their ficult to figure out where we’re going
résumés. Outside consultants such as
does best, rather than merely to hang our hat,” says Olsen-Harbich.
Michel Rolland and the late Paul Pon- what it can do sufficiently. In most U.S. wine regions, grapes
tallier have been through the area. came first and tourism followed. But
Given this accumulation of exper- Long Island was a tourist region first.
tise, I’d say it’s past time for Long Island to step up. After all, Because of that, the scattershot approach took hold as wineries felt
Long Island began growing wine seriously at about the same time the need to provide something for everyone who walked into the
as Oregon and New York’s Finger Lakes, and these rivals have tasting room. Weaning itself off this tactic may take some time.
made significantly more progress in that same time period. What But Bedell, Lieb Cellars, Clovis Point and a few others are fi-
has slowed Long Island down? nally dialing down to what Long Island does best, rather than
Well, it’s still modest in size; production today totals only about merely what it can do sufficiently. The result is wines that can
500,000 cases annually. Most of that is guzzled down by summer really speak for Long Island. These are wines that emphasize
beach-goers who flock to the small resort towns that dot the two lighter-bodied structure and rely more on acidity. They’re wines
forks. The wines rarely make it into mainstream distribution, not- that depend less on oak influence and focus more on brighter,
withstanding a few Manhattan restaurants or retail stores. And to purer expressions of fruit. And they’re coming from a tighter range
be frank, quality has never quite matched the prices–a typical of varieties, such as Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Chardonnay.
Long Island Chardonnay costs $25 or more per bottle, while the The result of this new focus is a spate of wines that show
majority of Finger Lakes Rieslings, for example, ask under $20. greater detail, are better matches with food and, yes, taste more
But perhaps the real reason Long Island hasn’t broken out is like Long Island than a cookie-cutter Merlot from anywhere else.
because it has yet to figure out what it should focus on. Many of Long Island will never be able to increase production to a
its wineries produce numerous bottlings—Wölffer Estate has as point where its wines push themselves into the mainstream. As
many as 22 different wines. Paumanok also takes a wide-angle a consumer you’ll have to head out there to get access to most
of the wines. The good news now is, Long Island’s wines are be-
W I N E S P E C TATO R .CO M coming worth the effort to seek out. And it’s a beautiful place for
DAVID YELLEN

In his blogs, James Molesworth shares updates from his recent tastings and a treasure hunt.
visits with winemakers, tries out different wine pairings and more. Join the
conversation with other members at www.winespectator.com/molesworth. Senior editor James Molesworth has been with Wine Spectator since 1997.

42 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. 30, 2016

 BY OWEN DUGAN • PRIMERS BY DAVID GIBBONS
PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANDREW PURCELL • FOOD STYLING BY CARRIE PURCELL
 COOKING WITH

CHEESE
A CODEX TO 10 ICONIC CHEESE TYPES, WITH CLASSIC
AND MODERN RECIPES FROM TOP CHEFS,
PLUS WINE MATCHES

MOZZARELLA
47 51
GOAT
57
BRIE
61
ÉPOISSES MANCHEGO
64
Burrata Caprese Pavé With Honey Gelée Crème de Brie With Apple Butter Époisses Toast Apple, Fennel & Manchego Salad
Nancy Silverton, Osteria Mozza Mark Sullivan, Spruce Ludo Lefebvre, Trois Mec Michael Rafidi, RN74 José Andrés. Jaleo

67
SWISS CHEDDAR
70 73
GOUDA
77
PARMIGIANO-
80
BLUE
Cubano Sandwich Mac & Cheese Walnut Gouda Soufflé REGGIANO Duck Wings With Cheese Sauce
Douglas Rodriguez, Alma de Cuba Ryan Lory, Charlie Palmer Steak Barbara Lynch, No. 9 Park Risotto Cacio e Pepe Mike Ward
Massimo Bottura The Restaurant at Wente Vineyards
Osteria Francescana

SEPT. 30, 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 45


FRESH IS THE WORD
M
ozzarella stands alone among
the world’s great cheeses for
the premium it places on purity
and freshness. Celebrated as the king of the
pasta filata (pulled curd) types, its name
comes from the verb mozzare, meaning “to
cut or pull off,” which is exactly what the
cheesemaker does in order to hand-form
each successive lump of elastic curds into
a cheese. And precisely because it’s a
young, unaged cheese—mild, lactic and
inviting in flavor—the quality of the milk
that’s converted to those curds is crucial.
A fine fresh mozzarella has a smooth,
pliable texture, soft, yielding consistency
and fresh lactic aromas and flavors, fea-
turing creamy highlights and lightly
acidic notes. Its texture is striated, like
that of a cooked chicken breast, but at
the same time—in one of those delectable
dichotomies found in the finest cheeses—
soft and creamy enough that a sharp knife
will glide right through. (Burrata is a type
of mozzarella in a pouch shape, filled with
oozy cream and curds.)
Until relatively recent advances in re-
frigerated air-freight and packaging allowed
cheeses to cross oceans and continents and
stay as fresh as they were the morning they
BOTTOM: ANDIA/ALAMY
Curds are kneaded and shaped while warm.
MOZZARELLA
Four Mozzarella Icons
Annabella Buffalo Cheeses
uu
Būf Creamery
uu
DiStefano Premium Italian Cheese
uu
Gustosella
uu
were made, the only choice for mozzarella
was your local producer. Now, thankfully,
there are several additional options. And
while it may still be preferable to minimize
carbon footprints and support your neigh-
borhood cheesemakers, modern logistics
have spared us a lot of round-trip airfare to
Italy, which is where the finest in the cat-
egory, Mozzarella di Bufala Campana PDO,
is made. They’ve also enabled top-drawer
U.S. regional producers—among them
Connecticut’s Calabro Cheese, southern
California’s DiStefano Premium Italian
Cheese, New Jersey’s Lioni Latticini and
Texas’ Mozzarella Company—to extend
the reach of their cheeses.
Reflecting the cheese traditions of their
ancestral homeland, old-style Italian-
American delis like DiPalo’s in Manhat-
tan’s Little Italy still buy curds from local
dairies and stretch them into mozzarella
daily. It’s the best way to guarantee their
customers can eat them within the requi-
site 24-hour period. (Beyond that, all bets
are off, and so too may be your insalata
caprese.) These delicious cow’s milk moz-
zarellas are called Fior di Latte, and it’s
reasonable to expect that any good cheese
shop will offer one that’s either been
stretched in the back or brought in fresh.
Mozzarella di bufala is made from the
milk of the Italian Mediterranean breed of
water buffalo, which has significantly
higher levels of fat, protein, calcium and
iron than cow’s milk, rendering it superior
for many types of cheese. All the desirable
qualities of a classic Fior di Latte are en-
hanced by the use of buffalo milk. It deliv-
ers more depth of flavor and adds satisfying
hints of musty, yeasty and meaty flavors.
About 83 million pounds of Mozzarella di
Bufala Campana are produced annually in
its PDO zone, which comprises the entire
provinces of Caserta and Salerno, near Na-
ples, as well as parts of the surrounding re-
gion. Of that, about 9 percent is exported
to the United States annually.
Small plastic tubs of genuine Mozzarella
di Bufala Campana PDO with the Gusto-
sella brand label are now widely available
at specialty groceries. It’s become the
benchmark of Italian imports, but it has
some serious competition at the top from
two relatively new Colombian arrivals, Būf
Creamery and Annabella Buffalo Cheeses.
This is perhaps surprising until you envi-
sion the vast amounts of warm, moist, lush
mountain pasturage available there. Co-
lombia’s near-equatorial climate allows
herds to free-graze on grasses 12 months a
year. And dairy farmers have piggybacked
on another Colombian export business—
fresh-cut flowers—which has opened up
the channel for their rich, fresh cheeses to
be flown to the U.S. daily.
Burrata Caprese
“Not many people knew about burrata when we
first opened. We found a local cheesemaker that
was able to supply burrata daily that was as de-
licious as what you'd find in Italy. Mozza really
helped introduce burrata cheese to Los Angeles
(maybe even America?) by using it in a recog-
nizable dish like a caprese and putting our twist
on it.”—ELIZABETH HONG, EXECUTIVE CHEF, MOZZA
RESTAURANT GROUP
SEPT. 30, 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 47
 RECIPE
1 ½ pounds fresh burrata
Maldon salt or other flaky sea salt, such
as fleur de sel
Slow-Roasted Cherry Tomatoes (recipe
follows)
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons Basil Pesto
(recipe follows)
Finishing-quality extra-virgin olive oil
30 to 40 micro or miniature fresh basil
leaves, or 6 large fresh basil leaves,
for garnish
Six 1-inch slices fett’unta (grilled bread
rubbed with garlic and drizzled with
olive oil)

Cut the burrata into 6 equal-size segments

and lay each segment, cut side up, on a salad
plate. Season with sea salt, and spoon 1 table-
spoon of pesto over each portion of cheese.
Top with clusters of 5 to 7 tomatoes. Drizzle
each with about 1/2 teaspoon oil, garnish with
fresh basil and serve with the fett’unta.
Serves 6.

TO ROAST THE CHERRY TOMATOES

1 pound sweet small tomatoes, stems
attached
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Preheat oven to 300° F with rack in middle

position. Place a wire rack on top of a baking
sheet. Gently put the tomatoes on the rack,
taking care to keep them attached to the
stems. Brush the tomatoes with the olive oil,
and season with the salt and pepper. Roast
tomatoes until the skins are shriveled but
the tomatoes are still plump, about 1 1/2
WINE MATCH
Feudi di San Gregorio Fiano di
Avellino 2012
hours. Remove them from the oven, and
cool to room temperature.
TO MAKE THE BASIL PESTO
4 cups basil leaves, packed
2 tablespoons toasted pine nuts
2 garlic cloves
chopped. Turn off the machine and scrape
down the sides of the bowl. Add the remain-
ing basil, the Parmigiano-Reggiano and 1/2
cup olive oil, and puree, stopping as soon as
the ingredients form a homogenous paste,
and adding more oil if necessary. Turn the
pesto out into a bowl and stir in the lemon
juice. Season to taste.

“Campania being a home for mozzarella and 1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste
burrata makes it a logical pairing. Also, the 1 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more as
herbaceous notes and acidity of the wine needed Nancy
are a great match for the pesto, and acidity ¼ cup freshly grated Silverton
is a nice counterbalance for the rich, Parmigiano-Reggiano
OSTERIA MOZZA
creamy cheese.”—SARAH CLARKE, 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice, plus more 6602 Melrose Ave.,
GENERAL MANAGER & BEVERAGE DIRECTOR, to taste Los Angeles
PORTRAIT: RON TOM/ABC/GETTY IMAGES

MOZZA RESTAURANT GROUP Telephone (323)

297-0100
WINE SPECTATOR ALTERNATES: Colli di Lapio Combine 2 cups basil, pine nuts, garlic, salt Website www.mozza
Fiano di Avellino 2014 (90, $30); La Guardiense and 1/2 cup olive oil in the bowl of a food pro- restaurantgroup.com
Falanghina Sannio Guardiolo 2013 (88, $14) cessor fitted with a metal blade (or combine Wine Spectator Best of
Award of Excellence
in a blender). Pulse until the mixture is finely

48 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. 30, 2016

 94
Stags’ Leap
Winery
2012
The Leap
Cabernet
Sauvignon

Napa’s Finest Cabs

These wines share much
more than just a Napa Valley
address. Their kinship is
built upon refinement and
concentration, evident in 94
only the finest Cabernet Beaulieu
Sauvignons and heralded Vineyard
with scores of 90 points. 2012
Through fascinating
Georges
histories and varied
de Latour

paths, they have arrived

Cabernet

at the same pinnacle of

Sauvignon

prestige, the 90+ Club.

Meet all the members

of the 90+ Club at
www.90pointclub.com.

96
Beringer
2012
Cabernet
Sauvignon
Private
Reserve

© 2016 Treasury Wine Estates, Napa, CA. | All ratings from The Wine Advocate

O N C E R A R E , N O W A S TA P L E
F
or its first two centuries, the U.S.
knew very little about chèvre.
Goat cheese remained a Franco-
phile curiosity, right up there with escar-
gots, cuisses de grenouille and rognons de
veau—snails, frog legs and veal kidneys.
Then, in the late 1970s, along came the
“goat ladies,” a handful of intrepid young
women who not only made fine fresh goat
cheese a staple in kitchens across the land
but spearheaded an entire back-to-the-fu-
ture artisanal cheesemaking movement.
Naturally, it all started in California:
The U.S.’s first goat lady was Laura Che-
nel, who grew up in Sonoma County, be-
gan raising goats, and in 1979 went to
France to learn proper chèvre-making.
Back home, she worked hard over the en-
suing decade to establish her namesake
brand. Her first breakthrough came in
1981, when chef Alice Waters placed a
standing order of 50 pounds a week for
Chez Panisse. Most of it went to the res-
taurant’s iconic baked goat cheese salad,
BOTTOM: TIM CALABRO
Goats gambol at the 30-year-old Vermont Creamery.
G OA T
are still producing outstanding chèvres.
They include Jennifer Bice, who founded
Redwood Hill Farm and Creamery in Se-
bastopol, Calif., in 1978; Judy Schad, who
started Capriole in Greenville, Ind., the
same year; Mary Keehn of Cypress Grove
Chevre in Arcata, Calif. (1983); and Al-
lison Hooper of Vermont Creamery in
Websterville, Vt. (1984).
Today, quality U.S. chèvres that rival
their French models not only are served
in the finest restaurants across the coun-
try, they blanket the cheese cases of top
Four U.S. Goat Icons supermarkets and specialty shops.
In 2006, Chenel sold her company to
Westfield Farm Capri
uu
the family-owned, artisan-oriented French
Three Ring Farm Rivers Edge Chèvre
uu
group Rians. Since then, Chenel’s annual
Redwood Hill Farm and Creamery
uu
sales have tripled to an estimated 6 mil-
Vermont Creamery
uu
lion pounds of cheese. Keehn sold Cypress
Grove to the Swiss company Emmi in
and together Waters and Chenel helped 2010, and it has since nearly doubled sales
make American goat cheese part of the to almost 2 million pounds of cheese per
California cuisine revolution. year; Bice sold to Emmi in late 2015, and
Most of the other original goat ladies both Bice and Cypress Grove continue to
SEPT. 30, 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 51
operate as independent divisions of that
dairy co-op giant.
In addition to the brands founded by
the goat ladies, there are several recom-
mended American chèvres: the Capri
brand from Westfield Farm, Hubbardston,
Mass.; Rivers Edge Chèvre from Pat Mor-
ford’s Three Ring Farm, Logsden, Ore.;
and Andante Dairy’s Fresh Goat Cheese,
from Petaluma, Calif.
For cheesemaking, goat’s milk has sev-
eral key distinctions. First, its smaller fat
globules make it more easily digestible
than cow’s milk. Somewhat paradoxically,
it’s both more fragile—necessitating ex-
tra-careful handling by cheesemakers—
and more consistent—offering potential
for larger-scale quality production, as
demonstrated by the Chenel and Cypress
Grove operations. Young, fresh chèvres
are packed and shipped within a week.
These cheeses can be cured for up to 30
days; beyond that, they cross over into the
aged category.
Balance is perhaps the most important
criterion for tasting and judging a young
chèvre. In consistency, it should fall some-
where between smooth, moist and melt-
ing and mouthcoatingly dense. It should
be mild, eminently approachable and not
at all goaty-smelling, with sweet, fresh
milky flavors, lemony, tangy tartness and
perhaps a chalky or claylike hint.
Other than Parmesan, it would be hard
to conceive of a cheese more versatile as
a recipe ingredient than a young chèvre.
Its distinct yet subtle flavors and textures
provide an inviting blank canvas suggest-
ing a vast array of potential pairings—
from stuffing tomatoes, mushrooms,
chicken breasts, even apricots, to melting
for a vegetable gratin, tossing with sun-
dried tomatoes on pasta or including in
your pound cake. Those thick, mouth-
coating textures and consistencies can
Mark
Sullivan
SPRUCE
3640 Sacramento St.,
San Francisco
Telephone (415)
931-5100
Website www.sprucesf
.com
Wine Spectator Grand
Award
54 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. 30, 2016
provide a really nice foil for juicy fruits
and vegetables. And that tartness likewise
provides a complement for citrus and veg-
etal acidity, whereas any hints of chalk or
clay can offer pleasant contrasts.
Goat’s Milk Pavé
With Eucalyptus
Honey Gelée
“Goat cheese salad is nothing new. Part of our
philosophy is it’s not always about making
something new, but just taking a classic and
making it really good. We’re a special restau-
rant with great service and wine, but we’re also
a neighborhood restaurant. So I try to solve the
conundrum of the goat cheese salad I make at
home on Sunday, for an elegant restaurant.”
—MARK SULLIVAN
RECIPE
2 cups goat cheese
1 ¼ cups heavy cream
½ teaspoon salt
4 sheets gelatin, bloomed in cold water
Black Pepper Crust (recipe follows)
Eucalyptus Honey Gelée (recipe follows)
1. In a large, heatproof bowl set over a pot of
simmering water, warm the goat cheese,
heavy cream and salt, whisking frequently
until the cheese is melted.
2. Squeeze excess water from the gelatin
sheets, and whisk the gelatin into the goat
cheese mixture until completely melted. Cool
to room temperature before pouring into tart
shell. The tart should use the majority of the
mixture depending on the thickness of your
shell and should leave 1⁄4 inch for the gelée.
Chill the tart for at least 2 hours.
3. Gently pour the gelée over the tart, filling it
to the top. You may have extra gelée.
4. Chill on a flat surface for at least 1 hour. Cut
the tart into thin slices and serve with a green
salad garnished with fresh herbs and a light
citrus vinaigrette. Serves 10.
TO MAKE THE BLACK PEPPER CRUST
1 ¾ cups all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon black pepper
M cup butter, cold and cut into small
cubes
WINE MATCH
Domaine Huët Vouvray Demi-Sec Clos
du Bourg 2014
“Traveling to the Loire dismantled the cliché of
red wine and cheese. Really about two-thirds
of the time, white or white with a little residual
sugar is better. Goat cheese picks up that
slight chalky terroir. The acid in the wine helps
to contrast with the fat in the cheese, and the
sugar helps round out the astringency in the
cheese. Don’t overthink it.”—ANDREW GREEN,
WINE AND SPIRITS DIRECTOR/PARTNER
WINE SPECTATOR ALTERNATES: Domaine Huët
Vouvray Demi-Sec Le Haut-Lieu 2015 (94, $42);
Domaine de Vaufuget Vouvray 2014 (87, $15)
3 tablespoons ice water
2 ½ cups pie weights or dried beans
1. Put the flour, salt and pepper into a food
processor fitted with a blade. Quickly pulse
to combine, and then add the butter. Pulse
10 to 15 times or until the dough has the con-
sistency of wet sand. Add water and pulse a
few more times until the dough comes to-
gether and is no longer dry. Add more water
1 teaspoon at a time as needed if the dough
is too dry.
2. Form the dough into a round, wrap tightly
in plastic wrap, and chill for at least 1 hour.
Once chilled, roll the dough out to 1⁄4-inch
thickness, and fit into a 9-inch tart pan, trim-
ming the edges and making sure there are no
visible holes. Return the tart shell to the re-
frigerator for at least 30 minutes.
3. Heat oven to 375° F. Place a large piece of
parchment paper over the tart shell, then fill
with pie weights or dried beans. Bake for 30
minutes, then remove parchment and pie
weights. Bake for another 10 to 15 minutes or
until the tart is evenly golden-brown. Allow
to cool completely.
TO MAKE THE
EUCALYPTUS HONEY GELÉE
½ cup red verjus
2 tablespoons eucalyptus honey
¾ tablespoon powdered gelatin, bloomed
in cold water
In a small pot, heat verjus over medium heat
until it comes to a simmer. Remove from the
heat and whisk in the gelatin and honey. Cool
to room temperature.
 BRIE
THE PRIDE OF FRANCE

B
rie is to France what the hamburger
is to the U.S.—a quintessential
and immensely popular concoc-
tion recognized the world over as among its
country’s definitive culinary ambassadors.
But one need not have been raised by
Francophiles to feel nostalgia for Brie: A
subtle, sophisticated delicacy accessible to
the widest range of palates, it’s been Amer-
ica’s go-to bloomy-rind import for decades.
France exports 5,000 tons of it to the U.S.
every year, dwarfing the 300 tons of its
iconic compatriot Camembert.
Brie is a family of cheeses, the original
and most famous of which is Brie de Meaux,
followed by its less-mild cousin Brie de
Melun. Both received their French AOCs
in 1980 and European PDOs in 1996. They
come from the Île-de-France region sur-
rounding Paris.
All the steps in making Brie are designed
to ensure its silky-smooth character. The
milk is subject to long, slow acidification,
coagulation and draining. The curds are
gently hand-ladled into molds using a per-
forated, shovellike tool called a pelle à brie,
and dry-salted, also by hand.
The edible rind is covered in velvety
white molds that ripen the paste over five
to eight weeks. At peak ripeness, occasional
reddish-brown streaks or splotches appear
on the rind, and the paste becomes unctu-
ously delicious. The mildly acidic taste and
sweet lactic flavors intensify, adding notes
of nuts, mushroom and hay, and even the
occasional hint of garlic or black truffle.
For Brie lovers in the U.S., there’s good
news and bad news. The bad is that due to
the FDA’s ban on raw-milk cheeses aged
less than 60 days, genuine AOC Bries are
not available. The good news is the French
have met the challenge of approximating
the superior depth and complexity of raw-
milk cheeses, with near-authentic results.
Among these are the pasteurized versions
of the two AOC Bries, given the generic
names Fromage de Melun and Fromage de
Meaux; a pasteurized version of Brie de
Nangis; a class of farmstead Bries labeled
Brie Fermier; and the Brie from Isigny Ste.-
Mère, a large co-op of small dairy farms in
Four Brie Icons
Ferme de Jouvence
uu
Isigny Ste.-Mère
uu
Le Châtelain
uu
Rouzaire
uu
Normandy. So, short of booking a flight to
Paris to smuggle home some AOC Brie, try
these—they’re as close to the real deal as
we can legally obtain in the U.S.
Crème de Brie
With Apple Butter
and Toasted Barley
“I made this two years ago. The process was to
work on cheesecake—not classic New York or
American concept, but to put a French touch in
with Brie. In France, apple and Brie is classic, so
I added apple compote. The barley gives another
layer of flavor but also texture—without the
crumble, there’s no texture. When I think of
cheese, I think of hay. It gives grass and terroir,
earth, aroma. It’s simple, it makes sense, but it’s
also very interesting.”—LUDO LEFEBVRE
TO MAKE THE HAY CREAM
½ cup clean hay, packed
1 pint heavy cream
¼ vanilla bean, split and seeds scraped
Rind trimmed from K a 13.2-ounce
round of Brie (use the Brie in the
cream below)
1 tablespoon sugar
1. Preheat oven to 325° F. Roast the hay on a
baking sheet until fragrant, 8 to 10 minutes. In
a saucepan, combine hay, cream, vanilla bean
and seeds, Brie rind and sugar. Bring to a sim-
mer over medium heat, then remove from the
heat and let cool to room temperature. Cover
and refrigerate for 8 hours or overnight.
2. Strain the cream through a fine-mesh sieve
into a container. Cover and refrigerate until
ready to serve.
TO MAKE THE BARLEY CRUMBLE
¾ cup nonfat dry milk powder, divided
5 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 ½ tablespoons cornstarch
2 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon pearled barley, ground to a
powder
Pinch of kosher salt
¼ cup unsalted butter, melted
3 ounces white chocolate, melted
1. Preheat oven to 250° F. Line a baking
sheet with a Silpat liner or parchment paper.
In a medium bowl, combine 1/2 cup milk pow-
der, flour, cornstarch, sugar, barley and salt.
Add the butter and stir with a fork or your
fingertips to thoroughly incorporate; the
mixture should look and feel like damp sand.
Spread out the mixture on the baking sheet
and bake, stirring every 5 minutes, until
golden and fragrant, 20 to 25 minutes. Let
cool, then return the mixture to the bowl and
WINE MATCH
Erben von Beulwitz Riesling Auslese
2005; spritzer (2 ounces wine, 1 ounce
club soda, 1 ⁄4 ounce lemon juice)
“This spritzer is an anomaly. I love this
producer, and the ’05 is an elegant, beautiful
wine. But it’s a little too much for this creamy,
slightly savory dessert. Think of the Trois
Mec concept of French refinement with a
distinctly California approach: I wanted to
take a classic and play with it.”—HELEN
JOHANNESEN, BEVERAGE DIRECTOR
WINE SPECTATOR ALTERNATES: St.-Urbans-Hof
Riesling Auslese Mosel Piesport Goldtröpfchen 2014
(94, $60); Pacific Rim Riesling Yakima Valley Noble
Wine Selenium Vineyard 2012 (92, $40/375ml)

SEPT. 30, 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 57

stir in the remaining 1⁄4 cup milk powder and
the white chocolate; again, the mixture
should resemble damp sand. Spread out on
the Silpat and freeze until very hard, at least
4 hours.

2. Transfer the crumble to a food processor

and pulse to grind. Place in a covered con-
tainer and return to the freezer until ready
to serve.

TO MAKE THE BRIE CHEESECAKE

Half a 13.2-ounce round of Brie, rind
trimmed off, at room temperature
4 ounces cream cheese, at room
temperature
¾ cup sugar
2 teaspoons cornstarch
Pinch of kosher salt
2 tablespoons milk
1 large egg

1. Preheat oven to 325° F. Spray an 8-inch

square pan with cooking spray and line with
plastic wrap. Set inside a larger pan.

2. In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle at-

tachment, beat the Brie until as smooth as
possible—some lumps are fine. Add the
cream cheese and beat on medium-high
until the mixture has doubled in volume and
is light and creamy, about 5 minutes. On low
speed, gradually add the sugar, then increase
the speed to medium-high and beat until
light and voluminous, about 3 minutes.

3. In a small bowl, stir the cornstarch and salt

into the milk until dissolved, then beat in the
egg. Add the milk mixture to the cheese mix-
ture, and mix on medium-low speed until
incorporated. Scrape mixture into the plastic-
lined pan (mixture will be about 1/2-inch deep)
and pour very hot water into the larger pan to
come up to the level of the batter. Transfer
both pans to the oven and bake until the top
of the cheesecake is set in the center, 15 to 20
minutes. Remove the smaller pan to a rack to
cool for a few minutes, then transfer to the re-
frigerator to chill completely, at least 4 hours.
4. Scrape the cheesecake into a fine-mesh
sieve set over a bowl and push the mixture
through with a spatula; discard any lumps re-
maining in the sieve. Transfer the cheesecake
mixture to a pastry bag fitted with a plain tip
and refrigerate until ready to serve.
TO MAKE THE APPLE BUTTER
2 pounds apples, quartered, peels left on
1 teaspoon cider vinegar
1 small tonka bean, finely grated, or ½
vanilla bean, split and scraped
1 cinnamon stick
cook over medium heat for about 20 minutes,
stirring frequently at first and constantly to-
ward the end, taking care not to burn the mix-
ture, until it is reduced by half and is a thick,
darker-colored paste. Remove the cinnamon,
and the vanilla bean, if using. In an immersion
blender, puree the mixture until very smooth.
Set aside to cool to room temperature.
TO SERVE
1 ½ lemons
1 sprig fresh thyme

Ludo 1. Put apples in a large nonreactive pot with Put the hay cream in a siphon and charge it
Lefebvre 2 cups water. Set a round of parchment pa- once. For each serving, pipe the cheesecake
per directly on the apples. Bring to a boil and into a 4-inch circle, starting at the center and
TROIS MEC
cook until apples are very soft and most of working outward. Top with a tablespoon
716 Highland Ave.,
Los Angeles the water has evaporated, about 30 minutes. each of the apple butter and the hay cream.
PORTRAIT: LIONEL DELUY

Website www.troismec
.com
Troic Mec does not
accept phone calls.
Sprinkle with the zest of 1⁄4 lemon and 1⁄4 cup
2. Pass apples through a food mill fitted to the
barley crumble. Sprinkle with thyme leaves
smallest holes into a 2-quart saucepan. Add
and, if desired, wood sorrel leaves. Serve im-
the vinegar, tonka bean and cinnamon, and
mediately. Serves 6.

58 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. 30, 2016


A S W E E T, S U B L I M E S T I N K E R
I
n spite of its infamously funky
aroma—or maybe because of it—
Époisses is the type that perhaps best
epitomizes Clifton Fadiman’s famous quip:
“Cheese is milk’s leap toward immortal-
ity.” Right off the bat, you wonder how
anything this smelly could taste so good.
It’s a veritable gastronomic miracle.
As its odor dissipates, an Époisses’ paste
softens to a sensuous, silky smoothness
and delivers a complex array of remark-
ably subtle, mellow flavors. It’s also a
great-looking cheese, so add aesthetic ap-
peal to its many alluring traits.
Officially called Époisses de Bourgogne,
it is made from cow’s milk and hails from
the Côte d’Or region of Burgundy. Several
of the communities in its AOC produc-
tion zone are well-known in wine as well
as in fine food—Gevrey-Chambertin is
one, Dijon another. Its recipe is also tied
in to the wine industry: marc de Bour-
gogne, which is brandy distilled from the
winemaking by-product pomace, is used
to wash the ripening cheeses.
The first key to developing Époisses’
unctuous consistency is long, leisurely
acidification and coagulation of the
milk (16 to 24 hours). Once formed, the
cheeses are washed three times a week for
four to eight weeks under cool, damp con-
ditions. The wash starts out as brine that
is progressively laced with marc until it’s
almost 100 percent the latter. Given
proper affinage, beautiful orange-tinted
colonies of microorganisms—mostly Bre-
vibacterium linens, along with certain
yeasts—grow on the cheese’s rind. These
lovely little fauna ripen an Époisses from
the outside in, working that miracle of
funky fermentation, transforming the
milk components into delicious flavor-
giving compounds.
An Époisses type was originally made in
the early 16th century, at the Abbaye de
Citeaux, home of the Cistercian order,
south of Dijon, by monks who ate it as a
main course on meatless nights. When they
BOTTOM: JON WYAND
abandoned the site 200 years later, the rec-
ipe devolved to local farm wives, who con-
tinued to make it into the 20th century.
ÉPOISSES
Four Époisses Icons
Fromagerie Berthaut
uu
Germain
uu
Rodolphe Le Meunier
uu
Hervé Mons
uu
As a handmade, highly labor-intensive ar-
tifact, however, it was all but dead and gone
by the end of World War II. In the mid-
1950s, Robert and Simone Berthaut, a
farming couple from the town of Époisses,
about 70 miles northwest of the abbey,
revived traditional production. Their fam-
ily business, Fromagerie Berthaut, is still
Époisses’ dominant manufacturer and the
brand most seen in the U.S., along with
Germain. Two top cheesemonger-affineurs,
Rodolphe Le Meunier and Hervé Mons,
select and brand cheeses under their own
names for export as well.
Whenever I spot one of those neat little
wooden boxes with the Époisses label, I
make a beeline, carefully lift off its top
and take a whiff. (The bulging 8-ounce
disc of cheese inside is wrapped in a per-
meable plastic wrapper so you can smell
it.) A ripe Époisses should have a strong,
persistent barnyard—but not rotten—
aroma. True, it can be off-putting, but fans
will contend it’s what distinguishes them
as committed connoisseurs. And we are
not alone: None other than the great gas-
tronome Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin
dubbed it the King of Cheeses.
An Époisses’ rind should be moist and
shiny but not saturated or slimy. Leave it
in its box, refrigerated, until about an hour
before serving. Plate it separately, allow-
ing it to come to room temperature and
melt to a custardlike consistency.
It can be tricky—some would say super-
fluous—to break down a complex, multi-
faceted profile into individual components.
Époisses’ is unique, fully integrated and
immediately recognizable. Considered the
beefsteak of cheeses for its big, meaty taste,
its flavors range from bacon and eggs to
Époisses is washed in marc at Gaugry in Brochon.
SEPT. 30, 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 61
rich, sweet cream, from buttery lactic acid-
ity to moist earth and notes of mushrooms
and nuts.
Époisses Toast
Gratinée
“We cook things that we want to eat but that are
very rooted in French cuisine. This is essentially
an open-faced grilled cheese. It’s ooey and
gooey. But keeping the integrity of the Époisses
is very important, and it’s balanced with acidity
from the shallot and sweet and tangy onion jam.
That plus a great loaf of sourdough make it a
little more composed.”—MICHAEL RAFIDI
RECIPE
1 wheel Époisses
6 slices country bâtard
French Onion Marmalade (recipe follows)
Pickled Shallots (recipe follows)
1 bunch watercress
Preheat the broiler. Place 1⁄6 of the Époisses
on each slice of bread and set on a sheet pan.
Broil until the cheese is melted and slightly
burnt on top. Spoon some onion marmalade
and pickled shallots onto each piece of toast,
and sprinkle with the watercress. Serves 6.
TO MAKE THE
FRENCH ONION MARMALADE
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
WINE MATCH
Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey St. Aubin
En Remilly 2011
“Époisses is strong. In Burgundy it’s served
raw. This [preparation] is more
approachable. It’s so aromatic that sales
increase when we sell one. The local wine
and food there have developed together over
so long that there’s a lineage to the match.”
—DAVID CASTLEBERRY, LEAD SOMMELIER
WINE SPECTATOR ALTERNATES: Philippe Colin
St.-Aubin Les Combes 2014 (91, $63); Louis Jadot
Bourgogne White 2014 (87, $18)
2 medium yellow onions, halved
lengthwise and thinly sliced
½ cup red wine
¼ cup red wine vinegar
¼ cup sugar
1 teaspoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
Cracked black pepper
1. Melt the butter in a skillet over medium-low
heat. Add the onions and stir to coat. Cook,
stirring occasionally, for about 45 minutes,
until onions are deep golden-brown. Add 1⁄4
cup water and stir, scraping up browned bits
and incorporating them into the onions.
2. In a small pot set over medium heat, com-
bine 1 cup caramelized onions with all other
ingredients and cook, stirring often, until liq-
uid is reduced and syrupy, about 5 minutes.
TO PICKLE THE SHALLOTS
1 cup red wine vinegar
1 cup sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup shallots, sliced into rings
Combine vinegar, sugar and salt with 1 cup
water in a saucepan and bring to a boil, then
cool and pour over shallots. Let sit overnight
at room temperature to pickle.
Michael
Rafidi
RN74
301 Mission St.,
San Francisco
Telephone (415)
543-7474
Website www.rn74.com
Wine Spectator Grand
Award

SHEEP’S MILK COLOSSUS
T
here was a time not so long ago
when the mere mention of sheep’s
milk would have crinkled the nose
of most cheese-eating Americans. Now it’s
a frequently enjoyed pleasure and a category
defined by genuine Spanish Manchego.
About 16,000 tons of Manchego were
produced in 2015, almost 30 percent of
which (4,730 tons) was exported to the
U.S., putting it nearly on par with the ubiq-
uitous French Brie. “I want a piece of Man-
chego” has become the “I’ll have a glass of
Chardonnay” of cheese.
Naturally, any food of such tremendous
popularity is subject to a certain amount
of crass commercialization. So the cogent
questions quickly become, “What’s so great
about Manchego?” and, “Which are the
standard-bearers?”
It turns out sheep’s milk offers decided
advantages: It’s thicker and richer, with
more fat and protein than cow’s milk. As
with goat’s milk, its smaller fat globules
render it more easily digestible and consis-
tent for cheesemaking. It also contains
more short-chain fatty acids, which break
down into the aroma- and flavor-giving
compounds that deliver those signature
peppery, spicy, piquant notes.
Manchego means “from La Mancha,”
and like so many Spanish place-names, it
was originally Moorish. Al-mansha means
The pattern on Manchego rind is a nod to the days when the cheese was imprinted with a braided-grass mold.
64 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. 30, 2016
M A NC H E G O
Four Manchego Icons
Dehesa de Los Llanos
uu
El Trigal
uu
Essex Cheese Manchego 1605
uu
Parra La Oveja Negra
uu
“land without water” in Arabic, and indeed
La Mancha is an arid plateau, averaging
nearly 2,000 feet above sea level, with rela-
tively harsh seasonal conditions. The local
Manchega is among the cheese-friendliest
of sheep breeds—hardy and suited to free-
grazing outdoors year-round on a wide va-
riety of plants and grasses.
The rind of a Manchego exhibits a
charming reminder of its rustic origins,
the so-called rope-tied pattern from the
WINE MATCH
Raventos I Blanc Xarel-lo Penedès
Silencis 2015
“This is made from 50-year-old Xarel-lo
planted in calcareous soil, unoaked and aged
on the lees. The salty character of the wine
will match perfectly with Manchego cheese.
And the personality of the Xarel-lo gives
spice aromas such as fennel.”—JORDI
PARONELLA, SOMMELIER, JALEO RESTAURANTS
WINE SPECTATOR ALTERNATES: Simcic Ribolla
Goriska Brda Selekcija 2013 (91, $30); Isaac
Fernandez Selección Verdejo Rueda Egeo 2014
(86, $13)
traditional draining molds made of pleita
(plaited raw esparto grass). It’s been re-
placed by nonreactive plastic, but the pat-
tern remains. Authentic Manchego is
identified by the official regulatory coun-
cil’s small logo label featuring the cheese’s
serial number and an image of Don Quix-
ote on horseback, stickered onto the brand
label on its top side, and also a small casein
plaque stamped into its bottom.
Americans can now enjoy Manchegos
of the highest pedigree largely thanks to
Michele Buster, co-founder of the importer
Forever Cheese and creator of the Mitica
brand. Buster was studying at the Univer-
sity of Valencia in the early 1980s when
she first encountered a plethora of market
cheeses labeled Manchego: “I tasted my
way through every possible permutation
and combination. It took me two weeks to
figure out which was my favorite.” Around
the same time, in 1984, Manchego was
defined and protected by a Denominación
de Origen that set it apart from the other
regional Spanish sheep’s milk giants, Idi-
azábal, Roncal and Zamorano.
Buster’s next Manchego epiphany came
in 1996, when she discovered the El Trigal
brand from Corcuera, a small family pro-
BOTTOM: COURTESY OF FOREVER CHEESE
ducer that continues to turn out bench-
mark artisanal cheeses. “I’ll never forget
cutting into that first wheel and being
stopped dead in my tracks at how buttery
it was,” she recalls.
Great Manchego all starts and ends with
Tuscany
-It a ly, N ove m b e r 16 , 2016 , MS R i v ie r a

sun r ise at sea

w in e m a ke r ’s t a s tin g

h a n dm a d e p as t a at Tos c a n a

af te r-din n e r o p e r a

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that butteriness; it’s where the cheese goes
in between that invites fascination. It is
sold under several different age gradations:
semicurado (two to six months), curado (six
to eight months), viejo (nine to 11 months)
and añejo (12 months). Only those made
from raw milk may be labeled artesano.
At three to six months old, the finest
Manchegos exhibit an addictive lactic
tang along with creamy richness and
salt—all in delectable balance. Moving
beyond six months, there are emerging
José Andrés
JALEO
480 Seventh St. N.W.
Washington, D.C.
Telephone (202)
628-7949
Website www.jaleo.com
Wine Spectator Award
of Excellence
earthy, mushroomy and fruity notes along
with more acidity and piquancy to com-
plement the butter. At 12 months and
beyond, the smooth, soft, pliant texture
has significantly dried out, making it
grateable, and all the flavors have inten-
sified. Throughout this remarkable evolu-
tion, the cheese never loses its superior
balance and complexity.
Sliced Apple and
Fennel Salad With
Manchego, Walnuts
and Sherry Dressing
“I love this salad—it’s a Jaleo classic. The Man-
chego cheese in this dish brings a fatty, meaty
texture to the salad. It’s amazing! Our Man-
chego cheese is made from raw sheep’s milk,
handmade from an ancient recipe—nutty, with a
tangy, lingering flavor.”—JOSÉ ANDRÉS
RECIPE
1 tablespoon Sherry vinegar, such as José
Andrés Reserva
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, such
as José Andrés Arbequina
Kosher salt
1 Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored and
cut into ½-inch cubes
6 ounces 8-to-12-month-aged Manchego,
cut into batons
1 fennel bulb, thinly sliced, with fronds
reserved and very thinly sliced
½ tablespoon chopped chives, plus more
for garnish
8 walnuts, shelled and chopped
1. In a small bowl, whisk together the Sherry
vinegar and olive oil. Season with salt to
taste and set aside.
2. In a large serving bowl, combine the rest
of the ingredients and season to taste with
salt. Add the Sherry dressing and toss well.
Garnish with chopped chives and the re-
served fennel fronds. Serves 4.
SEPT. 30, 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 65

T
o the casual observer it might
come as a surprise that a small,
landlocked nation roughly the
size of Connecticut and Massachusetts put
together runs a close second to the mag-
nificent behemoth that is France in the
world of fine cheeses. Such is the case with
Switzerland, which operates as a federation
of independent and, historically, at times
disparate provinces, called cantons, that
have consistently turned out an astound-
ing breadth and variety of cheeses.
What’s no surprise, given Switzerland’s
geography, is that it produces more of the
finest mountain cheeses than any other na-
tion. The large-format Swiss alpine types—
starting with Emmentaler and Gruyère—
head that list, and they are the models for
many flattering imitators the world over.
Key to understanding Switzerland’s out-
standing mountain cheeses is compre-
hending the concept of an alp: It is any
place in the mountains where people go,
usually in the summer, almost always ac-
companied by their domesticated animals.
They may not settle there permanently,
but they stay long enough to milk those
animals and make cheese. The operative
word is place, as in a particular patch of
terrain or a specific microclimate. And
the operative principle is transhumance,
whereby, once the snows have melted,
cows are ushered up to high pastures to
feast on a rich diet of alpine fodder, en-
suring that their milk is the best possible
raw material for cheesemaking.
WINE MATCH
Ontañón Ecologica Rioja 2013
“This is a strange dish for pairing. Acidity is
key because of the mustard and pickle. The
Ontañon has the sweet spice and acidity to
stand up to the pork, and the medium body
won’t overpower the food. The acids cancel
each other out.”
—CASEY LITTLEFIELD, BEVERAGE MANAGER
WINE SPECTATOR ALTERNATES: Cune Rioja
Crianza 2012 (91, $13); Bodegas Federico
Paternina Rioja Banda Azul Crianza 2013 (89, $15)
SWISS
ALPINE RULES
Four Swiss Icons
Gruyère 1655
uu
Challerhocker
uu
Der Scharfe Maxx
uu
Nufenen
uu
Down through the centuries, before the
advent of modern transportation, alps and
other small communities tended to remain
isolated. They developed independent tra-
ditions and customs. Cheeses would be
made according to similar, even identical
recipes. Yet they remained distinct expres-
sions of their terroir and were named for
their places of origin—Appenzeller,
Toggenburger, Hoch Ybrig and so forth.
For most of the 20th century, Switzer-
land’s cheesemakers, ruled by the Swiss
Cheese Union, were stodgy and predict-
able. The union was a financial boon but
a creative bust; when it collapsed in 1999,
the Swiss were once again free to invent,
which they did in all categories.
Excellent new cheeses made with old-
style methods wowed the cheese world:
Among the traditional alpine types,
Challerhocker and Der Scharfe Maxx
emerged as superstars. Both could be char-
acterized as “breakaway Appenzellers,” and
they knocked the Hoch Ybrig off more
than a few shelves in fine cheese shops.
This was quite remarkable, given the
Hoch Ybrig’s many charms, but those two
(relatively) new kids on the block were just
that good.
If a genuine AOP Emmentaler is the
baseline for all Swiss alpine types, a care-
fully selected, well-aged AOP Gruyère is
the benchmark. The former is bright and
fruity up front, offering notes of caramel
and toasted bread. With a smooth consis-
tency and satiny texture, it’s a little springy
on the palate but nonetheless toothsome
and melting. The Gruyères add earthy,
beefy and nutty notes to the classic alpine
profile, along with delightfully crunchy
crystals. Recommended labels include Rolf
Beeler, Murray’s and Gruyère 1655.
A couple of other highly recommended
Swiss alpine types are L’Etivaz, a throwback
Gruyère made as it was 100 years ago—an
eye-opener with its salty, smoky and musty-
citrus combo—and Nufenen, offering Gru-
yère-like earthiness and meatiness, not as
powerful up front but building convinc-
ingly and leaning more toward the fruity
end of the Swiss spectrum.
As recipe ingredients, all of these alpine
cheeses, new and old, are great options.
They’re built to melt (after all, fondue is
the national dish) and their flavors hold
up wonderfully to the heat of cooking.
Cubano
Sandwich
“A Cuban Sandwich is the one dish I crave the
most. Each component is important; the smoked
ham must be good-quality. The roast pork
should be marinated in adobo and sour orange,
which is the traditional Cuban method. You have
to use Jarlsberg Swiss cheese because it's
great when melted and has the right kind of
elasticity. The color and brininess of inexpen-
sive dill pickle chips can’t be beat. The pickles
must be patted dry to ensure that they stick to
the meat. Look for a bread made with lard—you
can taste the difference. I prefer the mustard on
the side, and it’s best when it’s that ‘ballpark
yellow mustard’—never a Dijon.”
—DOUGLAS RODRIGUEZ
SEPT. 30, 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 67
 RECIPE
1 loaf 24-inch-long Cuban bread made
with lard (or French baguette or
hoagie-style bread), split in half and
cut into four 6-inch sections
1 pound thinly sliced Jarlsberg cheese
1 pound thinly sliced Black Forest smoked
ham
1 pound thinly sliced Roast Pork Butt
(recipe follows)
Sliced dill pickles, patted dry
6 tablespoons salted butter, melted
Ballpark mustard
1. Arrange the bread slices cut side up. Evenly
arrange 1⁄8 of the Jarlsberg on each slice of
bread, then spread 4 to 5 pickle slices evenly
on 1 side of each sandwich. Evenly lay 1⁄4 of
the ham followed by 1⁄4 of the pork on 1 side.
Carefully combine the 2 sides of each sand-
wich and brush with melted butter.
2. Heat a sandwich press or a saucepan to
medium (275 ° F). Grill each sandwich for 3 to
4 minutes, pressing firmly. If using a sauce-
pan, first brush with butter, then press the
68 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. 30, 2016
sandwich with a spatula, or place a second
pan, inset with a heavy can, on top of the
sandwich to weight it down, Cuban old-style.
3. Once cooked, cut each sandwich in half
and serve with ballpark mustard. Makes 4.
TO MAKE THE ROAST PORK BUTT
½ cup chopped white onion
½ cup distilled white vinegar
¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves
1 tablespoon dried oregano
8 cloves garlic, peeled
3 bay leaves
1 tablespoon cumin seeds
2 tablespoons salt
Zest of 2 oranges
1 tablespoon pepper
5 pounds boneless pork butt trimmed of
excess fat
1. Place all ingredients except pork in a food
processor or blender. With the motor run-
ning (if using a food processor), gradually
add 4 cups water to create a puree.
2. Place the pork in a large ovenproof dish or
nonreactive pan and pour the marinade over.
Cover and refrigerate for 12 hours or over-
night, turning occasionally.
3. Preheat oven to 300° F. Uncover the pork,
then re-cover it, along with the marinade, us-
ing aluminum foil. Transfer to the oven and
cook until the pork is very tender and almost
falling apart, about 3 hours. Remove from the
oven and let cool slightly.
4. Place slightly cooled pork in the refrigera-
tor and let cool completely, at least 4 hours.
Slice thinly.
Douglas
Rodriguez
ALMA DE CUBA
1623 Walnut St.,
Philadelphia
Telephone
(215) 988-1799
Website www.alma
decubarestaurant.com

A CLASSIC REBORN
T
he great irony of Cheddar is that
despite its status as England’s
most venerated cheese, its name
was never protected.
Cheddar originated about 900 years ago
in some of the finest cheese terroir any-
where—a wide swath of lovely green hills,
dales and farmland encompassing the his-
toric counties of Dorset, Somerset, Devon
and Cornwall. Its epicenter is the village
of Cheddar and its picturesque gorge,
about 150 miles due west of London.
Long before the notion of protected
place-names had crossed anyone’s mind,
European settlers started bringing their
cheesemaking skills to North America—
at first, almost exclusively under the name
of Cheddar.
Mass-market techniques such as the
manufacture of large rindless block cheeses
and processing were originally developed
for Cheddar. The world’s first modern
cheese factory, founded in Rome, N.Y., in
1851, made Cheddar, and indeed, during
the latter half of the 19th century, the
U.S.-based boom saw millions of pounds
of American-made Cheddar exported to
England. (As historical facts go, it’s rather
astounding. Can you imagine America
shipping Camembert to France?) By the
1960s, old-style Cheddar-making had all
but died out. Fortunately, it bounced back
at the end of the 20th century with the
revival of traditional farmhouse cheeses.
Fine Cheddars are almost always made
from raw cow’s milk, with a few notable
WINE MATCH
Twomey Merlot Napa Valley 2012
“I wanted to pair it with something not too
bold, but with enough fruit for the richness of
the dish, lush but not overwhelming. The
richness and bacon fat soften the tannins so
you get pure fruit components in the wine.
Higher alcohol helps too. Comfort food is rich;
alcohol cuts the richness, in a good way.”
—KATHRYN GAFVERT, LEAD SOMMELIER
WINE SPECTATOR ALTERNATES: Markham Merlot
Napa Valley 2013 (91, $25); Kendall-Jackson Merlot
Sonoma County Vintner’s Reserve 2013 (89, $19)
70 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. 30, 2016
C H E D DA R
Four Cheddar Icons
Beecher’s Handmade Cheese
uu
Fiscalini Cheese Company
uu
Milton Creamery Prairie Breeze
uu
Quicke’s
uu
goat’s milk exceptions. Another Cheddar
fact: It’s the only cheese name that also de-
scribes an important step in its recipe. Once
the curds have solidified, they are cut into
large slabs, stacked and restacked. Called
“cheddaring,” this step contributes mightily
to the cheese’s characteristic dense, crumbly
yet melting texture. And, as part of a highly
controlled acidification, it also leads to
Cheddar’s famous bite, or sharpness.
The practice of wrapping a large drum of
Cheddar in cheesecloth likely began dur-
ing the cheese’s mid-19th century heyday.
This “bandage” facilitates optimum air ex-
change for long, slow aging. The best Ched-
dars deliver a majestic umami-laden depth
and complexity of flavors, a balance of
sweet, fruity, tangy and citrusy, with meaty,
grassy, nutty, musty, minerally, gamy, brothy
hints and much more. They evoke the cara-
melized butt end of your Sunday evening
roast as easily as they do the buttered sur-
face of your Monday morning toast.
On the English side, the top clothbounds
come from the two original Somerset fami-
lies that stubbornly upheld Cheddar tradi-
tions throughout the leanest years: the
Montgomerys and the Keens. Westcombe
Dairy and Quicke’s also offer outstanding
examples. Among the Americans, the most
consistently excellent Vermont cloth-
bound is made by Cabot and selected and
aged by the Cellars at Jasper Hill. Other
top Vermonters are Grafton Village Cheese
and Shelburne Farms.
Among the so-called new-age Ched-
dars—with sweeter, richer “American”
flavors in contrast to the more savory,
horseradish-y British ones—there are two
relatively new Midwestern superstars,
Bleu Mont Dairy and Flory’s Truckle, and
two old West Coast standbys, Fiscalini
and Beecher’s.
Just a notch below the limited-edition
clothbounds, there’s a class of very fine
block Cheddars highly suitable for recipes.
The Midwesterners Widmer’s Cheese Cel-
lars and Prairie Breeze from Milton Cream-
ery top the list, along with their English
equivalent, Barber’s Farmhouse Cheese-
makers. Barber’s comes from the firm that
maintains the heirloom cultures for West
Country Farmhouse Cheddar PDO, the
designated subcategory that was finally
protected after centuries of the world’s
cheesemakers playing footloose and fancy-
free with a grand old English name.
Bacon Béchamel
Mac & Cheese With
Sharp Cheddar
“Simple things done correctly are the best
things out there. But anything perfect is tough.
For this, if you want to cook like a chef, use an
aged local Cheddar. We use an upstate New York
aged Cheddar, a great local product. It adds fla-
vor and depth. The bacon fat enhances it. We
sell a lot of this dish. People order this and sau-
téed broccolini, like they cancel each other out.”
—RYAN LORY
RECIPE
¼ cup bacon fat
¼ cup all-purpose flour
1 shallot, minced
2 cloves garlic, minced
¼ cup white wine to create a roux. Add shallot and garlic, and
1 quart milk cook until translucent. Add white wine and Ryan Lory
¼ cup grated white New York Cheddar reduce almost completely, then add milk and
CHARLIE PALMER
¼ cup grated yellow New York Cheddar cheese, and bring to a simmer. The béchamel STEAK
should be nice and thick. 5 E. 54th St., New York
¼ cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
Telephone (646)
Salt to taste 2. Bring a pot of water to a boil. Add salt. 559-8440
1 pound macaroni Cook macaroni to your liking, drain and mix Website www.charlie
½ cup panko breadcrumbs with the béchamel. Pour into an oven-safe palmer.com/charlie
-palmer-steak-ny
casserole dish and top with the bread-
Wine Spectator Best of
crumbs. Bake until golden-brown, about 45 Award of Excellence
1. Preheat oven to 350° F. Heat bacon fat in a
minutes. Serves 6.
saucepan over medium heat. Whisk in flour

SEPT. 30, 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 71


S T U R DY, D U T C H , B U I LT T O L A S T
T
he history of Holland and its most
famous cheese, Gouda, are so in-
extricably linked that it’s virtually
impossible to discuss one without mention-
ing the other.
The town of Gouda, in the southern part
of the Netherlands, about 20 miles east of
the Hague, has been home to one of the
largest cheese markets in Europe for nearly
1,000 years. Large-format hard cheeses simi-
lar to modern Goudas have been made,
bought and sold in the area, helping to drive
the Dutch economy, for at least that long.
Gouda emerged as a major food com-
modity in the 17th century, when Hol-
land had its strongest influence on world
trade. It’s a national treasure and priceless
place-name, which, curiously, was never
protected, leading to widespread exploi-
tation. In another parallel to English
Cheddar (and its West Country Farm-
house PDO), a smaller, traditional Gouda
appellation, Noord Hollandse Gouda, was
finally protected, receiving its European
PDO in 1996.
Like their fellow Dutch explorers, colo-
nizers and spice traders, though they came
from a small nation, the Gouda makers
were industry leaders with far-reaching
power and influence. They came up with
several ingenious innovations to make
BOTTOM: GEOGRAPHY PHOTOS
The weekly cheese market and auction in Gouda
GOUDA
Four Gouda Icons
Beemster
uu
Bonnema State
uu
Cono Kaasmakers L’Amuse Signature
uu
Cono Kaasmakers Stompetoren
uu
Grand Cru
their cheeses more durable for long-dis-
tance shipping, enabling them to become
important instruments of international ex-
pansion. For starters, they scalded the curds
and stirred them into hot water before
draining the whey. This helped produce a
drier and less acidic (i.e., sweeter) cheese.
These were cheeses built to last: They were
formed in large wooden molds and pressed
extensively, ensuring a sturdy, solid paste
and thick rind.
Reflecting the Dutch knack for commer-
cial success, Gouda was one of the first
dairy products to sport a consistent signa-
ture look—a prototypical form of branding.
Its thick yellow rind was dyed with vinegar-
steeped saffron threads, giving it that fa-
miliar reddish-orange tint. A tradition of
lacing Goudas with such flavoring agents
as cloves and cumin was established during
the 17th-century heyday of the spice trade.
A young Gouda has a supple, somewhat
elastic paste and features mellow, milky
flavors along with sweet and fruity notes.
Not only are Goudas engineered to travel,
they’re designed to age. And they do it in
style, from six to 12 months up to three,
five, even six years. As they age, Goudas
are completely transformed: Their textures
become hard, granular and flaky, yet they
retain their moist and crumbly character.
Those sweetish flavors morph into deep,
candylike butterscotch and caramel notes
with hints of whiskey; the milky ones yield
to nutty, chocolaty, meaty, tangy and her-
baceous flavors.
The choice subcategory of Gouda is Boe-
renkaas (“farmstead cheese”), which is
made from raw milk by smaller farm pro-
ducers and co-ops. At the pinnacle are the
4-year-old Boerenkaases from the Bonnema
State label, the Beemster brand’s Classic
and XO (18 and 26 months old, respec-
tively) and the 2-year-old Stompetoren
Grand Cru, made by Cono Kaasmakers, a
500-farm co-op in the north of Holland.
Cono is also the source of another top-of-
the-line Gouda, the L’Amuse Signature,
which is selected by Betty Koster and aged
at her cheese shop in Santpoort-Noord,
not far from Amsterdam. Koster carefully
ages her selections over a period of at least
two years, with the goal of developing fully
rounded, deep flavor profiles.
The finest Goudas, aged in the five-year
range, typically become too hard and dense
for successful melting. Luckily, there’s an-
other excellent subcategory a notch below,
punctuated by the so-called “Goudas with
an Italian accent,” meaning that they’re
made with an intentional nod to the Grana
cheese class (e.g., Parmigiano-Reggiano,
Grana Padano), using cultures that result
in reminiscent tastes and textures. Among
these are Old Amsterdam, Paradiso by
Beemster, Parrano and Prima Donna.
Walnut Gouda
Soufflé
“A close friend of mine goes to Holland every
year and brings me back a whole wheel of an
aged Gouda that I can’t get here. I love the au-
thentic flavors of Gouda—aged, sharp and
crystallized. It’s my cheese of choice in much of
my cooking because it can be both savory and
sweet with the proper accompaniments. Plus,
doesn’t everything taste better when it’s forbid-
den and brought from Holland just for you?”
—BARBARA LYNCH
SEPT. 30, 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 73
 RECIPE
4 tablespoons butter, at room
temperature
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons superfine
sugar
Whites of 4 medium eggs
Walnut Puree (recipe follows)
WINE MATCH
Bodegas Hidalgo Amontillado Jerez
Napoleón NV
“Amontillado Sherry was born to play the role
of consort to a soufflé of walnuts dressed in
deeply savory Gouda cheese! The Sherry
itself has the flavor of rich roasted nuts
flecked with citrus peel, and its energy on the
palate is both unctuous and nervy. Its
inherent umami links right into the umami of
the Gouda.”—CAT SILIRIE, EXECUTIVE WINE
DIRECTOR, BARBARA LYNCH GRUPPO
WINE SPECTATOR ALTERNATES: Williams &
Humbert Amontillado Jerez Dry Don Zoilo
Collection 12 Year Old NV (91, $25); Emilio Lustau
Amontillado Jerez Los Arcos NV (90, $16)
74 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. 30, 2016
¼ pound 18-to-24-month-aged Boeren- TO MAKE THE WALNUT PUREE
kaas, or other Gouda
1 ½ cups whole walnuts
L cup toasted walnuts, chopped
1 cup milk
1 tablespoon walnut oil
¼ cup superfine sugar
3 tablespoons potato flour
1. Preheat oven to 350° F and brush 8 soufflé
molds (about 3 1/2 inches high and 2 inches in
4 medium egg yolks
diameter) with the butter. Use 1⁄4 cup sugar
to coat the inside of each mold, rotating to Heat oven to 300° F. Toast the walnuts for
make sure each one is coated evenly. Pour about 7 minutes and let cool. In a small
out any excess. saucepan, heat the milk and sugar on low
2. Whisk the egg whites in a bowl until soft
and bring to a simmer. Add the walnuts and
let steep on very low heat for 1 hour. Transfer
peaks form. Add the remaining 2 table-
the mixture to a food processor and puree
spoons sugar and whisk until the whites are
until smooth. Let cool, then beat in the flour
almost firm. Whisk in 1⁄3 of the walnut puree
and egg yolks until well-combined.
to loosen the whites. Once incorporated, fold
in the rest of the puree. Fill the soufflé molds
almost to the brim with the egg white and Barbara
walnut puree mixture, and bake for about Lynch
15 minutes, until the tops are golden.
NO. 9 PARK
3. Using a dry cloth to protect your hands, 9 Park St., Boston
tip each soufflé out of its pan and onto a Telephone (617)
plate. Grate the Gouda over the top. Garnish 742-9991
with the toasted walnuts and a few drops of Website www.no9park
.com
walnut oil. Serves 8.
 P A R M I G I A N O - R E GG I A NO
T H E P R I D E O F I TA LY
C
heese experts and connoisseurs
of every ilk would be hard-
pressed (pun intended) to single
out a type to best Parmigiano-Reggiano’s
elite status as both one of the finest stand-
alone table cheeses and one of the most
versatile culinary ingredients.
It stands to reason that Italy’s most
prized cheese and one of its top food ex-
ports is not only an extraordinary comfort
food but also a go-to ingredient for a vast
variety of dishes, from the simplest pasta
with fresh tomato sauce to one of molec-
ular gastronomist Ferran Adrià’s signa-
tures, the Parmesan Ice Cream Sandwich.
On account of its remarkable texture
alone—flaky yet moist, toothsomely firm
yet mouthwateringly melting—Parmi-
giano-Reggiano can be grated, shredded,
sliced, slivered, crumbled, layered or sim-
ply broken into bite-size chunks for en-
joying as a discrete accompaniment.
A wheel of Parmigiano-Reggiano be-
gins its existence as raw milk from cows
raised and fed with local grasses and fod-
der within the prescribed production
zone, in the region of Emilia-Romagna.
It is manufactured according to ancient
traditions codified by the Italian govern-
ment beginning in the early 20th century,
and by the European Union in its PDO
in 1996.
WINE MATCH
Cantina della Volta Lambrusco
Rimosso 2013
“Lambrusco often gets overlooked in the
area of fine dining. But we have been
encouraging diners to reconsider; after all,
it isn’t the same wine of 70 years ago.
Lambrusco will always be rustic, direct and
honest. However, as the Emilian kitchen
has matured over the past 20 years,
contemporary producers such as Cantina
della Volta have evolved alongside it.”
—BEPPE PALMIERI, MAITRE D’ AND SOMMELIER
WINE SPECTATOR ALTERNATES: La Battagliola
Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro 2014 (89, $18);
Lini Oreste & Figli Lambrusco Emilia Rosso Labrusca
910 NV (88, $15)
Four Parmigiano-
Reggiano Icons
Giorgio Bonati
uu
G. Cravero
uu
Bio Hombre
uu
Caseificio Santa Rita
uu
Of the roughly 3.3 million 80-pound
wheels made every year, about a third are
exported, and the United States takes 17
percent of those.
Literary references to a large-format
cheese from Parma date back to the Ro-
man empire, and it’s easy to picture how
it fueled the legions’ European and Medi-
terranean conquests. In the Middle Ages,
it was called Parmesano in the Italian ver-
nacular. The Florentine poet Giovanni
Boccaccio immortalized the cheese’s epic
marriage with pasta in his Decameron
(1351), depicting food workers in his won-
derland of Bengodi making ravioli and
macaroni while perched atop mountains
of grated cheese. In 1666, Samuel Pepys
stashed his Parmesan so it wouldn’t melt
in the Great Fire of London; around the
same time in Paris, Molière’s diet for lon-
gevity was a daily ration of Parmesan
washed down with Port.
The cheese’s modern double name
evolved from the unification of Italy in
the late 19th century, when more specific
place-names began to be used. Cheeses
from around Reggio Emilia, about 20
miles from Parma, were labeled Reggiano.
In 1934, the region’s cheesemakers
formed a consortium for grana, a more
general designation for grainy cheeses. In
1954, it was renamed the Consorzio del
Formaggio Parmigiano-Reggiano, and it
continues to guarantee, protect and mar-
ket the genuine article.
Properly aged for the 24-month mini-
mum, a Parmigiano-Reggiano has some of
the highest umami levels of any food. Free
glutamates, the amino acids responsible
for the fifth taste, average about 1,200
milligrams per 100 grams—second only
to Roquefort among cheeses. Flavor ma-
vens hunting the complex profiles of the
finest Parmesans are delighted when the
wide range of lactic, fruity and nutty fla-
vors bursts forth on the palate before set-
tling down to a long, savory finish.
Nutritionally, Parmigiano-Reggiano
packs an impressive punch. It’s 32 percent
fat in dry matter and delivers a concen-
trated package of proteins and minerals in
easily digestible form. No wonder everyone
in Italy, from mammas with toddlers to the
coaches of the national soccer team, swears
by it as the ultimate quick-energy snack.
Whether it’s for composing plates or sal-
ads, cooking in recipes or eating alone as
a table cheese, you don’t want to skimp on
your Parmesan quality. Top recommended
brands and producers include G. Cravero,
Italy’s No. 1 selector and affineur; Mitica,
from the U.S. importer Forever Cheese;
farmstead cheeses from smaller producers
such as Giorgio Bonati; organic cheeses
from the likes of Bio Hombre and Casei-
ficio Santa Rita; and those made from the
milk of special breeds such as Vacche Rosse
and Solo di Bruna.
W I N E S P E C TATO R .CO M
Can't get enough cheese? WineSpectator.com
members can browse our full archive of articles
about cheese at www.winespectator.com/
cheese. And for dozens more recipes featuring
cheese, with suggested wine pairings, try our
online Recipe Search. You can look up dishes—
from appetizers to sweets and grilled cheese
sandwiches to fondue—by type, wine pairing or
ingredients. Find them at www.winespectator
.com/recipes.
SEPT. 30, 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 77
Risotto
Cacio e Pepe
“Balsamic vinegar runs through my veins, my
bones are made of Parmigiano-Reggiano and I
drank too much Lambrusco as a young man, and
that is how I got to be the way I am. This recipe
came out of the need to celebrate Parmigiano-
Reggiano especially in light of the 2012 earth-
quakes that destroyed nearly 350,000 wheels
of cheese in a matter of seconds. This act of na-
ture was humbling to us all. We created the rec-
ipe Riso Cacio e Pepe to emphasize the unique
flavor and characteristics of this cheese but
even more to celebrate the bounty of this
regional product. The recipe looks like plain
white rice but it tastes like hope and like my
childhood.”—MASSIMO BOTTURA
RECIPE
1-plus pound freshly grated Parmigiano-
Reggiano (ideally aged for at least
24 months; the more you use, the
better the dish)
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 pound Vialone Nano rice
1 teaspoon white pepper
Wheels of Parmigiano-Reggiano age in vast rooms as a worker checks one for quality.
78 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. 30, 2016
½ teaspoon Szechuan pepper
½ teaspoon Jamaican pepper
½ teaspoon Sarawak pepper
½ teaspoon wild pepper
1. Pour 3 quarts water into a large nonstick
pot, with a thermometer attached. Heat on
low, stir in Parmigiano-Reggiano and raise
heat to 176° F. Be careful not to heat above
194° F. Stir and then let settle. When the
cheese begins to form threads at the bot-
tom of the pan, remove from heat and let
cool to room temperature. Cover tightly
with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight
or for 12 hours. The mixture will separate
into 3 parts: a creamy top layer, a milky
broth in the middle and protein solids on the
bottom. Do not mix the three layers.
2. Carefully ladle off the creamy top layer
and reserve. Strain the broth and reserve.
Discard the solids. The broth will be used to
cook the risotto, while the creamy part will
be used to finish the dish.
3. In a small bowl, stir together the 5 types
of pepper. Set aside.
4. Heat the olive oil in a medium saucepan
set over high. Add the rice, and toast, taking
care not to burn.
Massimo
Bottura
OSTERIA
FRANCESCANA
Via Stella 22, Modena,
Italy
Telephone
(39) 059- 223-912
Website www.
osteriafrancescana.it
5. In a medium saucepan, warm the Parmi-
giano-Reggiano broth over medium heat.
6. Ladle enough of the warmed broth over
the rice to cover it completely, and stir until
all the liquid is absorbed. Continue adding
ladlefuls of the Parmigiano-Reggiano broth
until the rice has almost completely
softened.
7. Taste the rice as you go. When it is nearly
finished cooking, after about 20 minutes, re-
move the pan from the heat and mix in the
Parmigiano-Reggiano cream a spoonful at a
time, until the mixture has reached the de-
sired creamy consistency. Plate the risotto
and sprinkle the blended peppers on top.
Serve immediately. Serves 6 as an appetizer
or 4 as a main course.
PORTRAIT: ANDREA WYNER; BOTTOM: BENOIT DECOUT/REA/REDUX

B O L D A N D B E AU T I F U L
T
he blues are a category apart:
Strong, salty, bold and persistent,
they’re not for everybody, yet they
make no apologies. The cheesemaker’s
challenge is to conjure enough other fla-
vors to create a smooth, sophisticated and
deliciously balanced cheese—not just a
moldy salt bomb.
First, it’s important to understand that
cheese without salt would be like wine
without alcohol—impossible. Second, the
finest blues all offer complex flavor profiles
that include sweet, buttery and rich com-
ponents to offset not only their saltiness
but the sharp, spicy bite of their blue molds.
It’s a dynamic that the makers of the
world’s elite blues—Roquefort in France,
Stilton in England and Gorgonzola in It-
aly—have thoroughly mastered. And now
a handful of America’s most successful blue
producers have done the same.
First among these was the Giacomini
family of Point Reyes, Calif. Robert Gia-
comini began dairy farming there in 1959;
in the late 1990s, he reduced his herd to
lower its environmental impact. His wife,
Dean, suggested cheesemaking as a way to
increase income, and in 2000, with support
from their four daughters, all raised on the
farm, they launched the Point Reyes Farm-
stead Cheese Company and created Cali-
fornia’s first indigenous blue cheese.
Point Reyes Original Blue lives up to its
name as a U.S. pioneer. Its strong, salty
WINE MATCH
Wente Pinot Noir Arroyo Seco Riva
Ranch 2014
“The coastal winds down in Arroyo Seco
allow our Pinot Noir to retain a refreshing
acidity that cuts through the fattiness of the
duck. Furthermore, the earthy tones and the
red fruit profile complement the gaminess of
the duck like no other.”
—JORGE TINOCO, SOMMELIER
WINE SPECTATOR ALTERNATES: Hahn Pinot
Noir Santa Lucia Highlands SLH 2014 (92, $30);
Chalone Pinot Noir Chalone Gavilan 2013
(90, $22)
80 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. 30, 2016
BLUE
Four U.S.
Blue Cheese Icons
Point Reyes Farmstead Bay Blue
uu
Jasper Hill Farm Bayley Hazen Blue
uu
Sequatchie Cove Farm Bellamy Blue
uu
Rogue Creamery Oregon Blue
uu
bite on the attack quickly evolves into a
pronounced tang that stops just short of
sour—a rare if not unique flavor among
blues. This is balanced by sweet, creamy
notes along with some grassy, yeasty and
meaty ones through a long, mellow fin-
ish—telltale signs of their cows’ fine pas-
ture-based diet.
Next among top American blues came
Rogue River Blue, an offshoot of Oregon
Blue and a direct descendant of Roquefort.
Tom Vella, the dean of California artisan
cheesemakers, who acquired Rogue
Creamery in Central Point, Ore., brought
Penicillium roqueforti molds back from
France after World War II and used them
to create Oregon Blue.
In 2002, Vella’s son Ig sold the firm to
Cary Bryant and David Gremmels, whose
inspiration was to wrap select young Or-
egon Blues in pear brandy–soaked Syrah
vine leaves and age them for as long as it
took to develop a host of evocative fla-
vors. Rogue River is truly a unique, world-
class blue. Oregon Blue remains the
creamery’s anchor and an excellent re-
cipe ingredient.
A year after Rogue River’s auspicious de-
but, Mateo Kehler of Jasper Hill Farm in
Greensboro, Vt., created another great
American original, Bayley Hazen Blue, in-
spired by Ticklemore’s Devon Blue, which
he’d encountered in England. Bayley Hazen
has a pronounced up-front moldy flavor and
a salty taste balanced by creamy, nutty and
meaty notes, a hint of grilled fennel and a
pleasant bittersweet undertone.
Two new American blue superstars come
from Sequatchie Creamery, located in
southern Tennessee, near Chattanooga.
The Bellamy Blue, created in 2015, hot on
the heels of Shakerag, which was first
shipped in 2014, is rubbed in alderwood-
smoked sea salt and aged in black wax, the
former giving the cheese a nice smoky ac-
cent and the latter helping it to retain its
moist, creamy character. Bellamy also fea-
tures savory hints of new-mown hay and
grilled and cured meats.
Like Rogue River Blue, Shakerag obtains
much of its unique character from its leaf
wrapping, in this case in Tennessee whis-
key–macerated fig leaves. Both of Se-
quatchie’s blues exhibit that key trait of all
my category favorites: a generous helping
of delicious and intriguing flavors to com-
plement their salt and blue mold, topped
by a finish that accentuates their rich,
grass-fed milk foundation.
Duck Wings With
Blue Cheese Sauce
“I love deep-fried poultry, but chicken wings
don’t have enough meat—you have to have 20
for sustenance or a good time. Turkeys are too
big. Duck is perfect. When I think of duck legs,
I think of confit, which gets that texture, and
brining gets flavor in. Blue cheese is classic,
and people who don’t like blue alone love it in
this sauce, especially with the amount of meat
on the duck—it’s a lower proportion of cheese.
You put six on a plate and it looks like a caveman
made you wings. It's a good way to get people to
try something different.”
—MIKE WARD
 RECIPE
1 cup salt
3 cinnamon sticks
¾ tablespoon black peppercorns
2 ½ tablespoons fennel seed
2 tablespoons curing salt No. 1
1 clove garlic, minced
1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger
12 duck wings
1 large onion, quartered
2 heads garlic, root ends removed
¼ bunch parsley
¼ bunch rosemary
¼ bunch thyme
¼ bunch sage
1–2 quarts rendered duck fat, or grape-
seed oil
1 cup rice flour
1 cup cold soda water
2 quarts canola oil, or a depth of 2–3
inches in pan
Blue Cheese Sauce (recipe follows)

1. In a large bowl or a tub with a lid, combine

the first 7 ingredients with 1/2 gallon hot wa-
ter and mix until salt is dissolved. Let cool.
Add the duck wings, cover and refrigerate
for 36 hours.

2. Rinse the brine off the wings and let dry in

refrigerator for 2 hours. Preheat oven to
300° F.

3. Wrap the onion, garlic, parsley, rosemary,

thyme and sage in cheesecloth and tie with
butcher twine to create a sachet. Transfer
the duck wings to a high-sided roasting pan
and tuck the sachet in near the middle of the
pan. Add duck fat to cover, and bake for
about 2 hours or until very tender. Let wings
set in the fat in the refrigerator overnight to
produce a rounder flavor.
4. Remove the wings from the fat and rinse
with hot water, then pat dry. Combine flour
and soda water to make a sandy batter. Keep
it cold. Coat the wings in the rice flour batter.
Heat oil in a high-sided skillet over high until
Mike Ward
an instant-read thermometer registers 350°
F. Add wings and cook until crispy, about
3 minutes. Drain on paper towels. Toss the
wings in the blue cheese sauce. Serves 6.
TO MAKE THE BLUE CHEESE SAUCE
4 anchovy fillets, finely chopped
¼ cup Dijon mustard
1 ¾ cups mayonnaise
3 tablespoons roasted garlic
¼ cup Tabasco sauce
Salt to taste
Pepper to taste
¾ cup toasted hazelnuts
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
1 tablespoon chopped basil
1. Stir together the anchovy fillets, mustard
and mayonnaise to combine.
2. Combine garlic, Tabasco, Worcestershire,
Bourbon and honey in a blender. Process
until smooth.

4 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce 3. Break the blue cheese into small pieces and
THE RESTAURANT AT
WENTE VINEYARDS ¼ cup Bourbon blend in a food processor until it starts to get
5050 Arroyo Road, 1 ½ tablespoons honey smooth. Add the pureed garlic mixture, cider,
Livermore, Calif. vinegar and lemon juice. Transfer to a mixing
1 pound blue cheese (preferably Point
Telephone (925) bowl, whisk in the aioli and season with salt
456-2450 Reyes Bay Blue), plus more for
Website www. finishing and pepper. Loosely chop the toasted hazel-
wentevineyards.com 1 cup sparkling apple cider nuts in a food processor and mix into the
PORTRAIT: ELI PITTA

Wine Spectator Best of ½ cup apple cider vinegar sauce with a small amount of crumbled blue
Award of Excellence cheese and the parsley and basil.
¼ cup fresh lemon juice

82 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. 30, 2016

84 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. 30, 2016
BURGUNDY’S
VIBRANT
YEAR
Vintners turned a difficult growing season to their
advantage in 2013, producing intense, racy whites
By Bruce Sanderson Photographs by Jon Wyand

Still Life by
Andrew McCaul
 TASTING REPORT | WHITE BURGUNDY

F
rank Sinatra’s immortal words about
New York, “If I can make it there, I’ll
make it anywhere,” could easily apply
to the Chardonnay vineyards of Bur-
gundy. Challenges abound in the
famed appellations of the Côte d’Or, and the 2013
vintage saw its share, with adversity testing the
skills of growers and négociants alike throughout
the season. Yet when the lees had settled and the
wines were bottled, the region’s vintners had
proven themselves once again with a range of
outstanding whites.
“We were challenged by a late and poor flow-
ering, hail in July, mixed weather in September
and a late October harvest not seen since 1978,”
wrote négociant Alex Gambal in a report on the
2013 harvest. Referring to the balance of “stress
or romance” in winemaking, Gambal noted that
the pendulum had swung toward stress for the
second year in a row. Philippe Colin achieved success in 2013 with bottlings from both the premier cru Chassagne-Montrachet and
The 2013 vintage is the most recent in a string grand cru Chevalier-Montrachet vineyards, a testament to the producer’s mastery of the difficult vintage.
of challenging years for Burgundy’s vintners. As
the latest harvest since 1978, the vintage is also a throwback to this year’s report. More than 200 2013s earned outstanding ratings
earlier decades when achieving adequate sugar levels was the goal of 90 points or higher on the Wine Spectator 100-point scale—an
rather than maintaining acidity, which has been the struggle in the impressive number given the difficult growing season—and I give
warmer years since 2000. the vintage an overall rating of 90 points. (A free alphabetical list
However, if you are a fan of vibrant, acid-driven white Burgundy, of scores and prices for all wines tasted is available at www.wine-
2013 is a vintage to explore. “Sleek,” “bracing” and “racy” are the spectator.com/093016.)
descriptors that best match the profiles of these Chardonnays, The hail on July 23 affected a broad area from Aloxe-Corton
which offer fruit flavors ranging from peach, apple and pear to to Volnay, but left most of the major Chardonnay vineyards in the
melon and lemon, with supporting notes of flowers, spices, honey, Côte de Beaune relatively unscathed. There was also a storm on
butterscotch and pastry. Some verge on creamy in texture, while Oct. 5 and Oct. 6, which compromised the skins of any grapes still
others are more linear and tensile, with tangy aftertastes. on the vines. This put growers in a tight spot, forcing them to find
Furthermore, several premiers crus rival the year’s grands crus, the right window in which to pick at full ripeness before any harm
fielding exceptional quality at a fraction of the price. Chassagne- could be done. For the most part they succeeded, picking ripe
Montrachet’s Philippe Colin, for example, inter-
preted the vintage well, with his Chassagne-Mon-
trachet Les Chaumées (95 points, $90) equaling
the quality of his Chevalier-Montrachet (95,
$355). Both wines beautifully express their respec-
tive climats, while also featuring the creamy tex-
tures that only some of the best 2013s possess.
“We did a lot of bâtonnage until the malolactic,”
explains Colin, referring to the process of lees stir-
ring. “The wines tasted acidic before the malo,
but very expressive and round after.”
Colin is joined at the top of the heap by Châ-
teau Génot-Boulanger’s Meursault Bouchères (95,
$100), which starts out lush and smoky yet fin-
ishes lean and minerally; Ramonet’s opulent, ma-
jestic Montrachet (95, $1,000); and Maison
Roche de Bellene’s Corton-Charlemagne (95,
$267), showing fine tension and stoniness.
Since my previous report (“Small Wonder,”
Sept. 30, 2015), I have tasted approximately 550
white Burgundies in our New York office, nearly Château Génot-Boulanger released a classic Meursault from 2013, offering a mix of lushness and minerality.
350 of them from the 2013 vintage, the focus of Despite challenging vintners with the latest harvest since 1978, 2013 still yielded a range of noteworthy wines.

SEPT. 30, 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 87

TASTING REPORT | WHITE BURGUNDY

Chardonnay fruit before the rains arrived or working to minimize To Paris

the damage from the storm.

“The key factors for me are grape maturity, quality of the press-
AUXERRE • Chablis
BURGUNDY

A31
A6
ing, selection of the appropriate casks and limited interventions r
ive
eR
during the élevage period in cask,” notes Gilles de Courcel, presi- Sa
ôn

dent of Chanson Pere & Fils. “This limited intervention can only PARC  • DIJON A3
6

NATUREL  r Côte de Nuits

O
be achieved with a strict control of the quality of the grapes.” RÉGIONAL DU  d’
MORVAN te
Chanson fielded seven outstanding wines in 2013, including the Cô
BEAUNE •
Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chenevottes (94, $127) and Corton Côte de
Côte Beaune
White Vergennes (93, $200), which were harvested Oct. 5 and Chalonnaise • CHALON-

9
Oct. 8, respectively. De Courcel and winemaker Jean-Pierre Con- SUR-SAÔNE

A3
FRANCE
furon stirred the wines judiciously during the malolactic conver- •PARIS
Mâconnais PARC 

er
NATUREL 

e Riv
sions (about four times during a seven-month period) to maintain RÉGIONAL DU 
HAUT-JURA

Saôn
purity and avoid oxidation. MÂCON •
AREA OF
Bouchard Père & Fils winemaker Frédéric Weber added a little DETAIL Beaujolais
A40
of the final press juice to the blend to offset the naturally high tar-

taric acid with potassium, which is higher in that portion of the
pressing from the grape skins. Bouchard’s whites generally exhibit
a lean intensity in 2013, with the exception of the Chevalier-Mon-
trachet Domaine (93, $365), which is rich and juicy.
On the downside, the poor flowering, hail and mixed weather
conditions during the summer resulted in a smaller crop, anywhere
from 20 percent to 60 percent less for growers. This translates to
another year of expensive wines, as prices have been on the rise in
recent vintages given the string of smaller-than-normal harvests
since 2010.
That said, most growers and houses have held steady between
2012 and 2013. Where I could make direct comparisons, a few pro-
ducers have increased prices by $5 to $10, while others have de-
creased slightly. Overall, however, prices have risen between 15
percent and 50 percent since 2009, roughly 30 percent on average.
A6
N
• LYON
0 miles 20
For 2013, the grands crus are going to set you back at least $150, or
more likely $250, with a handful priced at $500 or higher. The pre-
miers crus range from $75 to $200, while village-level whites are
now $60 to $100.
Customers at New York’s upscale restaurant Le Bernardin, which
holds a Best of Award of Excellence from Wine Spectator for its wine
list, are buying the entire range of white Burgundies—from Bour-
gogne to grand cru—according to wine director Aldo Sohm. As
allocations from top producers decrease and premature oxidation
(or “premox,” a complex problem that Burgundy producers are
working to resolve) continues to make consumers nervous, Sohm’s
purchasing strategy has been evolving.

Pouilly-Fuissé, in the Mâconnais subregion, is a rare source of affordability in the increasingly expensive white Burgundy category. Four wines from the area are top values.

88 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. 30, 2016

 TASTING REPORT | WHITE BURGUNDY

Mâconnais to the south, both of which con-

tinue to be sources of distinctive whites. In
2013, look for Drouhin Vaudon’s linear Cha-
blis Réserve de Vaudon (90, $32), full of
lemon cake, yellow plum and mineral notes,
or Albert Bichot’s mouthwatering Chablis
Domaine Long-Depaquit (89, $20), evoking
apple, lemon, chive and stone.
From St.-Véran, the Domaine des Vieilles
Pierres St.-Véran Les Pommards (90, $20) is a
lush style, with peach, apricot and spice flavors,
and though Daniel Barraud’s St.-Véran En
Crèches (90, $25) may be a little harder to find,
there are other excellent Barraud wines at
slightly higher prices. In the Côte Chalonnaise,
the Jean Chartron Rully Montmorin (90, $26)
offers the lemony profile of the appellation, and
nearby Domaine Faiveley’s Montagny (90, $31)
boasts lemon, apple and white peach flavors
on an elegant profile.
These wines seem especially affordable com-
Joseph Drouhin estates manager Philippe Drouhin (left) and winemaker Jerôme Faure-Brac released outstanding pared with the Côte de Beaune, where bottlings
Chablis in both the 2013 and 2014 vintages under the Drouhin Vaudon label, the company’s Chablis arm. such as Domaine Clos de la Chapelle’s rich and
fleshy Beaune White Les Reversées (89, $49)
“I have been working for a couple of years on a five-year rule,” and Bouchard Père & Fils’ sleek and tangy Beaune White Premier
he explains. “This is not rigid, but it’s a guideline because premox Cru du Château (88, $45) represent a marked step up in price.
is still an issue and people are growing nervous and call every sign Looking ahead, the 2014 vintage appears very promising for
of maturity in a wine premox.” white Burgundy. The wines are arriving now at wineshops in the
Regardless, Sohm doesn’t foresee prices coming down anytime U.S., primarily from Chablis and the Mâconnais, both of which
soon. “The prices of white Burgundy are getting very high, but I excelled in 2014. Chablis shows the classic style of Chardonnay it
don’t see this changing in the near future,” he says. “With the ex- is deservedly famous for—steely, pure and flinty—while the whites
ception of 2015, where yields are OK, hail and difficult growing from the Mâconnais are all about balance, texture, ripe fruit and
seasons—and this year [2016] the frost and again hail—will result vibrant structure.
in a shortage of wine and therefore high prices.” A few worth seeking out are the Drouhin Vaudon Chablis 2014
White Burgundy’s pricing makes it a constant challenge to find (92, $23), Francine & Olivier Savary Chablis Sélection Vieilles
value. The best areas to seek out are Chablis in the north and the Vignes 2014 (92, $28) and Jean-Marc Brocard Chablis Ste.-Claire
2014 (91, $22) from Burgundy’s northern lim-
Rating White Burgundy Vintages its. The Louis Jadot Pouilly-Fuissé 2014 (91,
$28), Catherine & Pascal Rollet Pouilly-Fuissé
2014 93–96 An excellent vintage, showing great potential; wines are rich NYR Domaine de la Chapelle Les Grands Climats
and ripe, with density and concentration 2014 (91, $28) and Joseph Drouhin St.-Véran
2013 90 Best are sleek and vibrant, with complexity, even creaminess; Drink or hold 2014 (90, $19) hail from the southern end.
others are too lean and shrill
If you love racy, vibrant white Burgundy,
2012 92 Low yields led to rich, concentrated wines; best have firmed Drink or hold
up over the past year, with good acidity 2013 is a vintage to buy for its backbone of
2011 92 Charming, fleshy wines, with ripe fruit and slender profiles, Drink or hold acidity and underlying mineral elements. It’s
showing more freshness than from barrel
also a year in which several premiers crus are at
2010 93 Clean and pure, showing ripe fruit flavors, without being too Drink or hold
rich or powerful; best have good cut, others are soft the same level as the grands crus, offering a great
2009 89 Exotic in character, with ripe fruit, fleshy textures and soft Drink or hold quality-to-price ratio. However, if charming,
structures; most can be enjoyed now rich and concentrated whites are more to your
2008 93 Smaller-than-average crop; vibrant acidity balanced by ample Drink or hold taste, then 2014 is the vintage to explore.
flesh in the best examples. Great in Chablis
2007 92 Precise, pure and elegant, with lively structures if harvested Drink or hold Senior editor Bruce Sanderson is Wine Specta-
late; at worst, unripe if picked early tor’s lead taster on the wines of Burgundy.
2006 91 Best are pure, elegant and balanced, with ample flesh and, for Drink
some, botrytis character; some are low in acidity and heavy
A score range indicates preliminary analysis based on barrel samples and/or a limited sampling; many wines of the vintage
W I N E S P E C TATO R .CO M
not yet reviewed. BONUS VIDEO: Burgundy Basics—Quick Tips.
Vintage ratings: 95–100, classic; 90–94, outstanding; 85–89, very good; 80–84, good; 75–79, mediocre; 50–74, not Burgundy can be complicated. But it’s easy to enjoy
recommended Drinkability: “NYR” means most of the wines of the vintage are yet to be released; “drink” means most of a glass if you know the basics such as the grapes,
the wines of the vintage are ready to drink; “hold” means most of the ageworthy wines have yet to fully mature. flavors and how to find value. Watch at www.wine
spectator.com/093016.

SEPT. 30, 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 91

 TASTING REPORT | WHITE BURGUNDY

Bruce Sanderson’s Recommended White Burgundies

More than 550 wines were reviewed for this report. A free alphabetical list is available at www.winespectator.com/093016.
WineSpectator.com members can access complete reviews for all wines tasted using the online Wine Ratings search.

TOP WINES TOP VALUES

WINE SCORE PRICE WINE SCORE PRICE

BOUCHARD PÈRE & FILS Montrachet Domaine 2014 95 $875 DOMAINE CHANTEMERLE Chablis Fourchaume 2014 92 $30
Sleek, concentrated and tightly knit, this delivers vanilla, cardamom, Oak treatment rounds out this rich and juicy white, adding a hint of
nutmeg and honey flavors, with buried peach and lemon fruit. vanilla to the apple pie, lemon and almond flavors.
PHILIPPE COLIN Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chaumées 2013 95 $90 DROUHIN VAUDON Chablis 2014 92 $23
Rich and creamy, this features apple, lemon cake, citronella and This is all about texture and balance, allowing the apple, lemon and
toasted spice flavors, with the vibrant intensity of the vintage. stone flavors to flow effortlessly. Cleansing and elegant.
PHILIPPE COLIN Chevalier-Montrachet 2014 95 $213 JEAN-MARC BROCARD Chablis Ste.-Claire 2014 91 $22
A whiff of the seashore complements peach, lemon and baking spice A textbook flinty aroma gives way to green apple, lemon and mineral
flavors in this enticing white, which is focused and harmonious. flavors, with fine depth and richness, offset by vibrant acidity.
WILLIAM FÈVRE Chablis Bougros Côte Bouguerots 95 $100 LOUIS JADOT Pouilly-Fuissé 2014 91 $28
Domaine 2014 Ripe and fleshy, this white exhibits peach, apple and floral flavors,
Powerful lemon, lanolin and quinine flavors ride the bracing structure with a citrus element courtesy of lemony acidity.
to a long, stony conclusion, showing balance and length.
CHRISTOPHE CORDIER Bourgogne White Vieilles Vignes 2014 90 $28
CHÂTEAU GÉNOT-BOULANGER Meursault Bouchères 2013 95 $100 A mix of honey, vanilla, peach, floral and citrus flavors marks this lush,
Lush and smoky, showing white peach, apple and light toast flavors, harmonious white, which is seamless and vibrant.
with vibrant acidity and an aftertaste of butterscotch and mineral.
JOSEPH DROUHIN St.-Véran 2014 90 $19
RAMONET Montrachet 2013 95 $1,000 Rich yet offset by vivid acidity, creating a nice tension to the lemon,
This harmonious white is lush and toasty, with notes of butterscotch apple and melon flavors. Long and tangy on the finish.
and mineral wrapping around a core of peach, apple and lemon fruit.
JEAN-PIERRE & ALEXANDRE ELLEVIN Chablis 2014 90 $25
MAISON ROCHE DE BELLENE Corton-Charlemagne 2013 95 $267 Delicate and complex, offering lemon, apple and mineral flavors,
Mineral, wax and spice accents enhance the lemon, apple and melon accented by floral details. Harmonious, long and focused.
notes in this white, with fine tension and a bracing finish.
LES HÉRITIERS DU COMTE LAFON  90 $30
BLAIN-GAGNARD Montrachet 2013 94 $825 Mâcon-Milly-Lamartine 2014
A complex, wiry white, with seashore, citronella and spice notes to Smoke and flint aromas lead off, backed up by ripe peach, apple and
augment the peach, apple and lemon flavors. Fresh and long. lemon fruit. This is rich, with fine acidity imparting focus and length.
CHANSON PÈRE & FILS Chassagne-Montrachet 94 $127 CHRISTIAN MOREAU PÈRE & FILS Chablis 2014 90 $30
Les Chenevottes 2013 Precision and harmony define this white, showing apple, lemon and
Citronella, apple pie, peach and stone flavors are heightened by the mineral flavors, with vibrant acidity and a lingering finish.
vibrant acidity in this intense, detailed white.
LOUIS MOREAU Chablis 2015 90 $25
JEAN CHARTRON Chevalier-Montrachet 94 $381 Round, with vibrant acidity and abundant apple, melon and lemon
Clos des Chevaliers 2013 flavors, revealing hints of stone and seashore on the finish.
This white shows harmony, with plenty of substance and refined
flavors of peach, apple and spice, driven by the racy backbone. DOMAINE GILLES NOBLET Pouilly-Fuissé La Collonge 2014 90 $30
This seamless white is balanced and succulent, with lemon, white
BRUNO COLIN Chassagne-Montrachet En Remilly 2013 94 $100 peach, apple and spice flavors in harmony with the smooth texture.
A tightly wound style, this offers peach, floral, lemon, hazelnut and
oak spice flavors. Creamy in texture, with excellent length. PATRICK PIUZE Chablis Terroir de Chablis 2014 90 $28
Lemon and greengage flavors permeate this racy white, with hints
JOSEPH DROUHIN Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche 2012 94 $900 of mineral. Sleek and mouthwatering, with a refreshing finish.
Rich and concentrated, with smoky lemon, apple and apricot flavors,
culminating in a long aftertaste that evokes orange sherbet. NICOLAS POTEL Pouilly-Fuissé 2013 90 $30
A hint of oyster shell adds interest to the apple, hazelnut and spice
DOMAINE FAIVELEY Corton-Charlemagne 2013 94 $341 flavors in this chalky white, which has intensity and length.
An elegant white, featuring stunning aromas and flavors of lime
blossom, peach, apple and mineral, with a dose of sweet spices. J.J. VINCENT & FILS Pouilly-Fuissé Marie-Antoinette 2014 90 $29
A clean, focused style, this offers peach, apple and mineral flavors
LOUIS JADOT Chevalier-Montrachet Les Demoiselles 2013 94 $476 matched to a supple texture and lemony acidity.
Apricot, citronella, baked apple, butter and spice notes are driven by
bracing acidity, with a mineral element emerging in the end. VINS AUVIGUE Mâcon-Solutré Le Moulin du Pont 2014 90 $19
Oyster shell accents underline the peach and ripe apple fruit in this
LUCIEN LE MOINE Meursault La Pièce sous le Bois 2013 94 $160 rich, harmonious white. The structure shines on the finish.
Broad, rich and smoky, this racy white offers a core of peach, apple
and lemon cake, backed by a vivid spine of acidity. ALBERT BICHOT Chablis Domaine Long-Depaquit 2013 89 $20
Fresh-cut apple aromas and flavors are joined by lemon and chive
MICHEL NIELLON Chevalier-Montrachet 2013 94 $360 notes in this brisk, juicy and mouthwatering white.
A seashore brininess greets the nose in this lively, lemon cake–
and melon-flavored white, with floral and bread dough nuances. CHANSON PÈRE & FILS Viré-Clessé 2014 89 $25
A crisp, elegant style, this balanced white delivers white peach, lemon
PATRICK PIUZE Chablis Bougros 2014 94 $74 cake and light mineral flavors, lingering with lemon details.
An intense, vibrant style, featuring lemon cake, apple, flint and
mineral aromas and flavors, all supported by a racy structure. CAVE DE LUGNY Mâcon-Villages La Côte Blanche 2014 89 $14
Elegant, fresh and fruity, offering notes of peach, white flowers and
lemon curd, with a lingering citrus finish and a hint of stone.

SEPT. 30, 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 95

 HIS OWN MAN
RISK-TAKER CHRISTIAN MOREAU BUILDS ONE OF CHABLIS’ BEST DOMAINES

BY BRUCE SANDERSON ❘ PHOTOGRAPHS BY JON WYAND

SEPT. 30, 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 97
O
n an unseasonably warm day late this winter, Christian
Moreau surveys a parcel of vines in the premier cru
Vaillons, one of the best-known vineyards in Chablis.
“My father planted these vines in 1933,” he says, point-
ing out the gnarled trunks, which each harvest would bear fruit for
the Chablis Vaillons Cuvée Guy Moreau.
Twenty-two years ago, on an overcast November day in 1994, on
my first visit to Chablis, Moreau and I stood in the same spot, look-
ing out over the same vines. As the winemaker for J. Moreau & Fils,
he knew these vines well, along with the other parcels that had been
in his family since 1904.
A lot has happened in the interim. Through a series of deals, Bur-
gundy giant Boisset bought J. Moreau & Fils, the original family
company, in 1997. But the Moreau family always retained ownership
of its vineyards, and with the 2002 harvest, Christian and his son
Fabien founded Domaine Christian Moreau Père & Fils; they then
began vinifying, aging and bottling Chablis from nearly 29 acres,
mostly in premiers and grands crus sites around the village.
Chablis, located about halfway between Paris and Beaune, is the
northernmost part of the Burgundy region. It gives its name to a
unique expression of Chardonnay, whose wines can be stony, com-
plex and long-lived. Chablis owes its unique character to its dis-
tinctive geology; its bedrock contains fossilized chalk, marl and
limestone formed more than 137 million years ago.
Great Chablis is recognizable first by a green-gold hue. Its scent
is piercing, a combination of flowers, green orchard fruits such as
Granny Smith apple and green plum, hints of iodine or seashore
and, most importantly, flint. It is a medium- to full-bodied white, Fabien Moreau, the fils (son) of Moreau & Fils, is a key man at the domaine, bringing
with refreshing acidity and an austere, steely character. With age, it degrees in enology and viticulture and experience in other wine regions to the project.
assumes a nutty flavor, overtones of honey and a mellow richness.
Moreau and his son have built Domaine Christian Moreau Père different climats on the property. “He’s the boss. Officially I don’t
& Fils into one of the best sources of Chablis in the region, along- exist,” Christian says with a twinkle in his eye. However, if the
side names such as Raveneau, Dauvissat, William Fèvre and Pat- elder Moreau isn’t traveling to promote the wines, or skiing in the
rick Piuze. Moreau’s wines tend to have more flesh but retain the French or Italian Alps, he’s either in the vineyards or in the win-
steely core and mineral, iodine elements. Most importantly, they ery office at the edge of town on Rue d’Oberwesel.
reflect their individual vineyard origins. “My father really has a big role in the success of the domaine,”
Moreau is justifiably proud and is quick to give credit to Fabien states Fabien. “OK, I have my hands more in the pumps or the
for his work ethic and commitment to coaxing the best from the must, but he’s here every morning before me. He put everything
on the line at 60 [years old], and he really did it.”
Moreau, now 72, is a bear of a man with a big heart, quick
with a smile or a joke and who loves a good glass of wine,
preferably grand cru Chablis. But behind the physical pres-
ence and strong personality lies a shrewd businessman with
respect for family, tradition and the reputation of his region.
He left France as a teenager to work in the timber industry
in the Canadian Rockies, survived two near-fatal skiing ac-
cidents and avoided a tragic tunnel fire in the Alps border-
ing Switzerland and Italy. This has imbued him with a love
for life and a passion for the land of his ancestors.

Christian Moreau shares a photograph of his father, Guy Moreau (right), at harvest in 1952. In 1939,
Guy built the relationship with U.S. importer Frederick Wildman & Sons that continues to this day.
C
hristian Moreau was born Oct. 15, 1943, in the fam-
ily home in Chablis. His ancestors were originally bar-
rel makers who began buying vineyards and making
wine, then in 1904 expanded their operations to include né-
gociant activities. His father, Guy, and uncle Jacques began
exporting the firm’s Chablis to the United States in 1936.
Guy Moreau was appointed food-and-beverage manager

SEPT. 30, 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 99

for the French Pavilion at the New York World’s Fair in 1939, fur-
ther establishing the family company’s network in the United
States. He met Colonel Frederick S. Wildman, who had purchased
Moreau’s importer, Bellows and Co., and the same year began sell-
ing wine to Frederick Wildman & Sons, a relationship that exists
to this day. “I have a letter from my father when he was in New
York, writing to his father—it was in ’39: ‘Can you ship 700 cases
of 1921?’ So they still had some stock,” says Moreau.
Christian and his wife, Christine, met and married in Canada during Christian’s years working in the lumber
business there. They have been married for 50 years and have three sons.
Surrounded by the family business, Moreau’s earliest recollec-
tions of wine became deeply ingrained. “I was, let’s say, in the
perfume of the wine. In the cellar I can remember the way they
were bottling, by hand, bottle by bottle, labeling, bottle by bottle,
with the glue on the table, and I can remember for the U.S. ev-
erything was in wooden boxes, with each bottle put in straw,” he
recalls. “When you see the way we bottle and ship the wine now,
there is a big improvement.”
Moreau’s parents separated when he was a baby and divorced in
1945. He went to school in Chablis and later moved to Paris, con-
tinuing his education. “I was not a bad boy, but I knew, when I was
16, I didn’t want to go to school, I didn’t want to work in the vine-
yard, I didn’t want to work in the cellar. When my father said,
‘What do you want to do?’ I said, ‘I don’t know, not much.’ He said
to me, ‘We have a big problem.’ ”
He had a cousin from Mâcon who worked as a logger in Canada,
in a camp of about 80 lumberjacks in Hinton, Al-
berta. At 17 years old, the young Chablisien would
try his fortunes there. His first job was feeding horses
and cleaning stables. He soon began cutting logs,
and during the winters drove the big Kenworth rigs,
transporting timber. Eventually, Moreau bought his
own Kenworth, making his living as a truck driver
for the remainder of the 11 years he spent in the
Canadian wilderness.
Hinton was near the resort town of Jasper, Alberta.
It was there that Moreau met his wife of 50 years,
Christine, a student from Rimouski, Québec, work-
ing for the summer. Their two oldest boys, Philippe,
47, and Patrick, 43, were born in Canada. Fabien,
41, was born in France, but has Canadian citizen-
ship. “I’m the only Frenchman in the family,” says
Christian with a chuckle.
G
uy Moreau came to his son’s wedding in 1966
in Rimouski and told Christian that when
he was ready to return to France, he would
pay for his plane ticket. He later sent the ticket, but
Moreau paid his own way home. Yet after a month
back in France, Christian had had enough. “I didn’t
feel like coming back—the mentality, the way they
work, you know I was in Canada. I still had my pay-
check when I was working with certain people, 360
to 380 hours a month, so it was not 35 hours [a week]
like in France,” he says.
But in 1972, Moreau decided to return to France
for good and join the family business. His first job
was in the vineyards. For four years, he worked with
the foreman and learned how to prune, how to op-
erate a tractor among the rows of vines. Then it was
the cellar for four years. “I followed instructions
from the cellar master and learned how to make
wine, from the harvest right to the end,” he states.
By 1984, it was Christian giving the orders on how
to make the wine. “That’s when I learned le métier,
the business,” he adds.
Moreau compares his path to that taken by Fa-
bien, who has a degree in enology from the University of Dijon
and a master’s in vineyard and winery management from ENITA
in Bordeaux. He worked for five different estates in France and
New Zealand, including Domaine de Chevalier in Bordeaux and
Olivier Leflaive Frères in Burgundy’s Côte d’Or before returning
to the family business.
“He went the other way,” Christian says. “Myself, I started from
the bottom in the vineyard and the cellar. He is more technical
SEPT. 30, 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 101
“What’s most important is that we recovered all our vineyards
to manage, vinify and sell from the domaine.”—Christian Moreau
than I am, but we get along very well. Sometimes I can bring him
a few ideas, but we complement ourselves.”
to France from New Zealand in 2001, he had just spent a year at
the Ngatarawa winery in Hawkes Bay. He and his father soon
bought the building on Rue d’Oberwesel, and with the 11.6 hect-

W
hen Christian came home in 1972, J. Moreau & Fils ares (29 acres) of family vineyards, Domaine Christian Moreau
was still a family company. By the early 1990s, it had Père & Fils was born.
grown to 650,000 cases and moved to a big, new facil- In addition to the domaine fruit, since 2002 the duo has bought
ity at the edge of Chablis. grapes from a 15-acre parcel. “We are quite lucky to have a nice
Moreau’s father and cousin Jean-Jacques had decided to embark domaine. When you have over 12 acres of grands crus, almost the
on a fifty-fifty joint venture with the Canadian spirits company same of premiers crus, Chablis and Petit Chablis, that’s perfect; you
Hiram Walker in 1974, on the négociant side of the business. “Not can control it and make your own reputation, voilà,” beams Moreau.
the vineyards. The vineyards remained in the hands of the family “You can always get bigger. I know what big is.”
domaine, always,” explains Moreau. “The protection was there; Moreau is referring to the peak production years when J. Moreau
the family was not crazy. You can make a joint venture, but you & Fils was bottling wines from Muscadet, Loire, Chablis, Côte
need to have an exit door.” d’Or, Beaujolais and even Bordeaux, and exporting to many coun-
The agreement with Hiram Walker stipulated that after a mini- tries. Today, he and Fabien produce 11,000 to 11,500 cases. They
mum of 10 years of supplying grapes to the joint venture, and then employ four people full-time in the vineyards, and a salesperson,
with five years’ advance notice, the Moreau family could once again with Fabien and Christian in the cellar.
control grapes. Little did Moreau know at the time how important Burgundy is a region where passing the reins from one genera-
that stipulation would become. tion to the next can be difficult. Moreau himself had a difficult
Guy died in 1989. Between 1995 and 1997, through a series of relationship with his father, yet he and Fabien work together very
consolidations, J. Moreau & Fils became part of Allied Domecq’s well. “It’s challenging. My father has a strong personality,” says
holdings. They were sold, first to Fabien. “But he really gave me
Calvet and then almost immedi- the key to the cellar. He said, ‘Do
ately to the Boisset Group.
Holdings of Domaine Christian what you want.’ ”
By 1997, Christian was the Moreau Père & Fils The first thing Fabien wanted
only family member remaining Petit Chablis 1.73 acres was fewer chemicals in the vine-
at J. Moreau. He was the wine- Chablis (Les Pargues) 2.96 acres yards. The use of herbicides was
maker, buying grapes and looking Chablis (Fontenay; purchased grapes) 14.82 acres halved in 2003, and in 2005 he
after the day-to-day operations. Chablis (Premier Cru) Vaillons 11.61 acres stopped using the synthetic treat-
Though his cousin Jean-Jacques Chablis (Grand Cru) Blanchot 0.25 acres ment for botrytis. He began to
had already retired when the Chablis (Grand Cru) Vaudésir 1.24 acres experiment with organic cultiva-
Boisset Group bought J. Moreau Chablis (Grand Cru) Valmur 2.47 acres tion in Vaillons in 2007, and the
& Fils, Christian and he decided Chablis (Grand Cru) Les Clos 7.16 acres entire estate has been certified
to end the contract. Jean- Chablis (Grand Cru) Les Clos Clos des Hospices 1.25 acres Ecocert since 2010. Today, the
Jacques’ son Louis was coming old vines in Vaillons planted by
back to his family domaine (Do- Recent Releases Fabien’s grandfather are farmed
maine Louis Moreau) and Chris- WINE SCORE PRICE organically. “I really like this part
tian’s son Fabien was planning to CHRISTIAN MOREAU PÈRE & FILS  93 $97 of Vaillons. It’s like working with
return in 2001. They would re- Chablis Blanchot 2013 old trees, so I have a good feeling
gain control in 2002. CHRISTIAN MOREAU PÈRE & FILS 92 $65 in this vineyard,” says Fabien.
Chablis Vaillon Cuvée Guy Moreau 2013
“The decision to enter into the CHRISTIAN MOREAU PÈRE & FILS 92 $97
The harvesting machine broke
joint venture in 1974 [with Hiram Chablis Valmur 2013 on the last day of picking in 2001
Walker] wasn’t mine—I was just CHRISTIAN MOREAU PÈRE & FILS 91 $106 and since then, all the parcels,
Chablis Les Clos 2013
coming back from Canada,” says from Petit Chablis to the grands
CHRISTIAN MOREAU PÈRE & FILS 91 $142
Moreau. “Whether it was a good Chablis Les Clos Clos des Hospices 2013 crus, are harvested by hand.
decision or not, it’s in the past. CHRISTIAN MOREAU PÈRE & FILS  91 $45 He has also made changes in
The main thing, what’s most im- Chablis Vaillon 2014 the cellar. Since 2008, the fer-
portant, is that we recovered all CHRISTIAN MOREAU PÈRE & FILS  91 $97 mentations are conducted using
Chablis Vaudésir 2013
our vineyards to manage, vinify indigenous yeast and no bacteria
CHRISTIAN MOREAU PÈRE & FILS  90 $30
and sell from the domaine.” Chablis 2014 for the malolactic. “Wild yeast
When Fabien Moreau returned brings depth and complexity to

102 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. 30, 2016

Christian and Fabien Moreau amid the stainless-steel tanks Christian prefers for Chablis production. Fabien, however, has introduced the use of oak for several of their wines.
the wines,” explains Fabien. “There are about four or five yeasts
that do the alcoholic fermentation—one starts, another finishes
and there are some working in the middle.”
The other major change in the cellar is the adoption of wood.
During his tenure as winemaker at J. Moreau & Fils, Christian
Moreau was proud of the clean, mineral style of Chablis, fer-
mented and aged in stainless-steel tanks. “I’m not in the lumber
business,” he would joke, referring to the use of oak for ferment-
ing and aging Chablis. “I used to be in the lumber business.” He
always believed new oak and small barrels in particular were not
compatible with Chablis.
M
oreau’s position against the use of oak has softened, but
he and Fabien use it judiciously. Burgundy barrels
(128-liter pièces) are used for up to 40 percent of the
fermentation of the premiers crus Vaillons and the old-vines Vail-
lons Cuvée Guy Moreau, which see maximum 3 percent new oak.
The grands crus Blanchots and Vaudésir are entirely barrel-fer-
mented in older oak, 2 to 5 years old, and the Valmur and Les
Clos, including the Clos des Hospices, a 1.25-acre parcel, see a
mix of stainless steel and barrel for fermentation. In 2015, all the
stainless-steel tanks were replaced.
The Moreau wines have become more precise, and though bot-
tlings from the late 1980s and early 1990s reflected the different
vineyards, today there is even greater individual identity and char-
acter. Indigenous yeast and judicious use of oak give the wines more
texture in addition to complexity.
“There’s one thing we cannot forget,” cautions Moreau. “Chablis
104 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. 30, 2016
is a Chardonnay, but you have Chardonnay everywhere in the
world and some good ones. So, to fight against all the Chardonnay
from the U.S., from Australia, Argentina, even from the east coun-
tries, you have to strive to be above and think about one thing:
quality, quality. Quality always survives.”
With the domaine hitting its stride now after 14 harvests,
Moreau needed to ensure its future. It will stay in the family, first
under Fabien’s control, and then at least for the next generation,
under the direction of Fabien’s daughter or son. “The transmis-
sion [for the future] is done,” says Moreau. “From Fabien it passes
to his two kids, his daughter or his son. His son says, ‘I don’t want
to go to school; I want to be like daddy.’ He’s 9 years old. If one
wants to take over they will, no problem.”
Fabien is happy with the domaine as it is; he can control every-
thing, despite working alone in the cellar. “I can trust my vineyard
workers completely,” he says of the team that has been in place
since the beginning in 2002. “The customer needs to trust that
when we are out [of stock], we can replace it with the next vin-
tage. We don’t want to go into big volume.”
Expanding means buying vines, but growth can create problems.
Besides, Christian Moreau has been there, done that. “It’s easy to
say ‘buy,’ but there are no vines for sale,” he explains. “When you
have vines for sale, it is a question of heritage, fighting in the fam-
ily, where the children are fighting each other. One day there will
probably be something for sale, but who will be there? Finance
people that can invest millions,” he observes. “Then the spirit of
the family, even if it bears the name, the spirit of the family do-
maine is gone.”
 Groove
In the
C
alifornia Pinot Noir is enjoying a harmonic conver-
gence. Everything seems to be going its way as it builds
on a decade of consistent success.
“Pinot Noir has evolved well beyond the point of
being a popular—or new or novelty—variety,” says Jeff Pisoni,
winemaker for his family’s Santa Lucia Highlands winery. “It has
identified itself as a variety that works remarkably well in several
parts of the state. That being said, I don’t foresee it growing or ex-
panding into many new regions or with a lot of new plantings.”
But he and others may be surprised. New start-ups are every-
where. Producers in Sonoma and Santa Barbara are inching ever
closer to the Pacific, as well as venturing deeper inland into the
smallest of parcels and unlikeliest of locales. Also in the mix are
Napa Valley Cabernet producers, such as Carter’s Ancillary label,
Hall’s Walt and Schrader’s Boars’ View, which have been among
the most aggressive new players, armed with money and marketing
California Pinot Noir
gains momentum
and builds on its
strengths in 2014
By James Laube
Pisoni Vineyards in Monterey’s
Santa Lucia Highlands was first
planted to Pinot Noir in 1982 and
is now a leading site for the grape.
clout. All of this expansion is adding excitement to the Pinot scene,
contributing layers of intrigue and creating a snowball effect.
What’s becoming more apparent with each year is the high level
of quality and the diversification of styles. This report includes re-
views of more than 630 Pinots tasted since my last story (“The Art
of Pinot,” Sept. 30, 2015). During this period I blind-tasted around
240 2014s (with 96 rating outstanding), along with roughly 370
2013s (106 outstanding). My highest-scoring wine, the Marcassin
Sonoma Coast Three Sisters Vineyard, comes from 2010 (96, $75).
(A free alphabetical list of scores and prices for all wines tasted is
available at www.winespectator.com/093016.)
The twin vintages of 2013 and 2014 overlap in the market, though
they are more fraternal than identical. Both produced a bevy of ex-
ceptional wines. Four 2013s reached 95 points: Boars’ View Sonoma
Coast ($125), Cirq Russian River Valley Bootleggers’ Hill ($125),
Dehlinger Russian River Valley Altamont ($60) and Donum
SEPT. 30, 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 107
Carneros West Slope ($90).
When it comes to 2014s,
seven earned 94-point rat-
ings, including Arista’s Long-
bow ($60) and Mononi
Vineyard ($75), both from
Russian River Valley; Kosta
Browne’s California-desig-
nated 4-Barrel ($125) and
Santa Lucia Highlands
Rosella’s Vineyard ($90);
Rochioli’s Russian River Val-
ley River Block ($86); So-
journ’s Sonoma Coast Gap’s
Crown Vineyard ($59); and
Walt’s Santa Lucia High-
lands Sierra Mar ($75).
The mix of years, vineyards
and styles covered in this re-
port offers consumers an en-
ticing menu, with wines to
“Don’t underestimate the most important determinant
of success.
quiet beauty [of the ’14s]. These “Vintages are always very
wines have power and elegance, exciting,” says Michael
Browne of Kosta Browne and
similar to 2004.” Cirq. “What you do in the
—Anne Moller-Racke, Donum winery means the hand can
trump the land.” Winemak-
ers select clones and harvest
dates and determine ripeness
as well as cooperage. But the
site dictates overall quality.
It adjusts or compensates for
variations in weather. In
2015, Browne says, the depth
of the drought took hold.
The berries looked like “Pi-
not Noir caviar,” leading to
wines that tasted “like a bowl
of crushed berries.”

A
cellar and drink now. fter a decade of
“I thought ’13 was a wine growth and the ap-
you can hold on to, with firm pearance of many
tannins, really firm—almost new brands, a hierarchy of
too tannic to drink early,” says producers is emerging, most
Pisoni. “ The ’14s had a simi- of them from Sonoma. They
lar level of concentration but include Aubert, Dehlinger,
more development because Anne Moller-Racke’s Donum Estate sources Pinot Noir from four vineyards spread across Carneros, Donum, Kosta Browne, Kis-
[the grapes] had more devel- Russian River Valley and Anderson Valley. A release from 2013 is one of this report’s top wines. tler, Marcassin, Rochioli,
opment in the vineyard.” Peter Michael, Roar, Pisoni
The 2013s “were a little slow to develop in barrel, and Paul Hobbs. Other worthy mentions include
not really showing how nice they were until later A.P. Vin, Kanzler, Loring, Sojourn and Siduri.
than usual,” says Anne Moller-Racke of Donum. California’s Also of note are new arrivals and turnarounds,
The 2014s are more accessible, rich and for- Major Pinot Noir such as Arista, Domaine Della, Cirq, Ferren, Boars’
ward, precocious and charming, vintners say. Districts View, Occidental (owned by Stephen Kistler), Walt
Moller-Racke adds, “Don’t underestimate the and Wren Hop.
quiet beauty [of the ’14s]. These wines have The best of these wines share not only a sense of
r
Rive

power and elegance, similar to 2004.” Anderson place but also balance, even as some are richer and
ento

Valley
The differences between the two vintages riper, others trimmer and more elegant, with nervy
ram
Sac

are subtle. Yields in 2014 were higher than in Sonoma LAKE

acidity. Still more rely on finesse and feature supple tex-
2013, vintners said, with larger berry size despite TAHOE
tures. The range of flavors extends from savory herb to
Carneros
the drought. ripe red and dark berry, often with floral arrangements
“The wines from the vintage are strong, with SAN
FRANCISCO and delicate oak.
Sa

a vibrant and intense character,” says Eva Deh- California Pinot Noirs “are becoming more of
nJ
oa
qu

linger, winemaker for her family’s label. “In their place,” explains Browne. “There’s a bubble,
in
Riv

MONTEREY
some ways the 2014s are more reminiscent of an upswing where you grow it, how you grow it.
er

BAY
Sa

the 2012s in their suppleness. I think of the The vines are growing slowly and the vine age
lin
as

Santa Lucia
Ri

Highlands
ve

2013s as being more textured than both the is also helping.”

r

2012 and 2011. At Dehlinger, the character of
the vintage was strong enough that we created sev-
eral special bottlings to showcase the year and our site.”
The 2015 crop is a different story entirely. The most
severe year of the long-term drought affecting Califor-
nia led to swings in vineyard health, tonnage and wine
Vintners are putting a fine sheen on
their wines, starting in the vineyard. Al-
though most Pinot plantings are still
Santa rather new, a few are showing their age.
Barbara
Dehlinger is overhauling whole parcels,
a sign that the Pinot industry continues
MARGO MORITZ

N
quality. In the end, vintners played the hands they were 0 miles 100 to evolve. Eva Dehlinger, the daughter
dealt: Though heat and rain were factors, site remained the LOS
ANGELES of founder Tom Dehlinger, has turned

108 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. 30, 2016

 TASTING REPORT | CALIFORNIA PINOT NOIR

over an original 40-year-old vineyard with a massive

replanting. This rejuvenation sets the stage for a new
tier of wines that will define the next generation for
the producer.
One new Dehlinger Pinot Noir, called Renatus,
is sourced from the sections of the ranch undergo-
ing redevelopment. “The term is of Latin origin,”
Eva Dehlinger says. “[It] refers to rebirth and re-
newal—obviously a meaningful concept for some-
one replanting vines put in by their father over 40
years ago.”
To prepare for the newer plantings, she plowed
4 feet deep, removing old roots and mixing the soil.
“We followed the plowing with several years of fal-
low to rejuvenate the earth. The approach has been
successful, and we have recently started to produce
crops from these younger plantings. The young
vines are making a very potent and powerful wine,
with lots of density and personality. We couldn’t Kosta Browne cellar master Julien Howsepian works with grapes drawn from Sonoma Coast, Russian River
resist bottling some separately to showcase what Valley and Santa Lucia Highlands. Two of the producer’s 2014 Pinots are among the elite in this report.
distinctive wines are coming off these vines. So
that’s something to look forward to, along with our established des- Burgundies of note are the most expensive, and Oregon’s top wines
ignates of Champ de Mars and High Plains.” are inching ever higher. California, meanwhile, offers a slew of
Looking at a map of California, the state’s diversity of coastal wines in the $25-to-$40 range—more in line with what you’ll pay
valleys and appellations offers a road map that leads from the past for a New Zealand import.
to the present. For years, irregular quality and odd clones held the Pinot Noir is famous for being difficult to grow and vinify, and
wines back. Vineyards planted in what ended up being less desir- volume for the best wines is usually in the range of 100 to 500 cases.
able areas have been abandoned for more ideal venues. The move That makes vintages important, as a string of superior years puts
to more beneficent sites has proven pivotal. more wine in the market. Still, the very best wines are often sold
Most California Pinot Noir production takes place in areas close directly from winery to consumer, limiting the supply.
to the coast. By means of comparison, Pinots from the state tend to The next test for California Pinot Noir will be in how it ages.
be richer, fuller, fruitier and sometimes oakier than those grown in Although the wines can begin bold and flashy, within a year or so
Oregon, Burgundy and New Zealand. But if you put Pinots from each they transform into elegant, delicate renditions. That this evolu-
region in a blind tasting you’ll be surprised by how comparable they tion is happening on such a large scale is cause for excitement.
are. With age, the differences become even more nuanced. Senior editor James Laube is Wine Spectator’s lead taster on California
What sets California Pinot Noir apart from its peers is price. Pinot Noir.

Rating California Pinot Noir Vintages in Major Regions

Santa
Anderson Santa Lucia
Valley Carneros Barbara* Highlands Sonoma**
2014 88 88 89 93 92 Even higher yields than 2013, with fleshy, forward and Drink or hold
showy wines; many approachable now
2013 87 88 86 94 91 Another huge crop of generally high quality; slow to Drink or hold
open and ageworthy
2012 89 87 85 91 90 Record-size crop with atypically tannic wines; Drink or hold
best in Santa Lucia Highlands
2011 86 87 87 93 87 Rain wreaked havoc at harvest, resulting in lighter wines Drink or hold
of uneven quality
2010 88 88 94 92 94 Weather extremes tested growers, yet vintage is strong, Drink or hold
with structured wines
2009 92 91 90 94 97 Almost perfect, with scores of ripe, polished, deeply Drink
flavored wines
2008 80 90 89 90 89 Uneven year; top wines are complex and delicate Drink
*Santa Barbara includes Santa Barbara, Sta. Rita Hills, Santa Maria Valley, Santa Ynez Valley and Edna Valley AVAs
**Sonoma includes Russian River Valley, Sonoma Coast, Sonoma Mountain, Sonoma Valley, Green Valley and the Fort Ross-Seaview AVAs
A score range indicates preliminary analysis based on a limited sampling; many wines of the vintage not yet reviewed.
TROYCE HOFFMAN

Vintage ratings: 95–100, classic; 90–94, outstanding; 85–89, very good; 80–84, good; 75–79, mediocre; 50–74, not recommended; NR, not rated
Drinkability: “NYR” means most of the wines of the vintage are yet to be released; “drink” means most of the wines of the vintage are ready to drink; “hold” means most of the ageworthy wines
have yet to fully mature.

SEPT. 30, 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 109

TASTING REPORT | CALIFORNIA PINOT NOIR

James Laube’s Recommended California Pinot Noirs

More than 630 wines were reviewed for this report. A free alphabetical list is available at www.winespectator.com/093016.
WineSpectator.com members can access complete reviews for all wines tasted using the online Wine Ratings search.

TOP WINES TOP WINES (continued)

WINE SCORE PRICE WINE SCORE PRICE

MARCASSIN Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Three Sisters 96 $75
Vineyard 2010
Presents a rich, unctuous core of fresh earth and herbs, along with a
strong dose of oak. Strikingly youthful and vibrant.
BOARS’ VIEW Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2013 95 $125
Bold, rich and assertive, with lively acidity and a tight, dense core of
raspberry and blackberry, revealing rose, anise and spice scents.
CIRQ Pinot Noir Russian River Valley Bootlegger’s Hill 2013 95 $125
A thrilling expression of charming elegance, this captures moderately
ripe plum and blueberry flavors, with aromatic rose petal aromas.
DEHLINGER Pinot Noir Russian River Valley Altamont 2013 95 $60
A seamless expression of juicy plum, cherry blossom and rose petal,
with black cherry flavors at the core. Remarkably charming.
WALT Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands Sierra Mar 2014 94 $75
Maintains a graceful balance and presence, with detailed blackberry,
raspberry, mocha, black licorice, smoke, nutmeg and cedar notes.
ASTON Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2013 93 $65
Well-proportioned, with a mix of herb- and cedar-laced dark berry,
anise, and fresh, loamy earth, this could use a year or so to soften.
CALERA Pinot Noir Mount Harlan Jensen Vineyard 2013 93 $88
Dense, with plum, blackberry and blueberry flavors, this firmly tannic
version shows a sense of elegance and suppleness.
PETER MICHAEL Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands Le Moulin 93 $100
Rouge 2014
A graceful, refined style that captures suppleness and finesse. Charm-
ing, delivering elegant plum and wild berry flavors.

DONUM Pinot Noir Carneros West Slope 2013 95 $90 OCCIDENTAL Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Occidental Station 93 $100
Exhibits a gorgeous core of rich blackberry, wild berry, raspberry and Vineyard Cuvée Catherine 2012
cherry flavors, accented by heady floral rose petal scents. Dense and structured, with tight acidity and firm focus, this gushes
with zesty wild raspberry, blackberry and savory underbrush notes.
ARISTA Pinot Noir Russian River Valley Longbow 2014 94 $60
Impressive, with depth and purity of flavors built around blackberry, WREN HOP Pinot Noir Sta. Rita Hills Architects & Saboteurs 2013 93 $78
plum, raspberry and blueberry, shaded by smoky, toasty oak. Offers plum, wild berry, raspberry and boysenberry flavors, featuring
touches of black licorice, anise and subtle earth.
ARISTA Pinot Noir Russian River Valley Mononi Vineyard 2014 94 $75
Exhibits dusty, savory herb details and cedar-laced tannins that give
the plum, anise, black tea and wild berry flavors traction. TOP VALUES
WINE SCORE PRICE
AUBERT Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast UV-SL Vineyard 2013 94 $120
Offers a racy, zesty expression of spicy raspberry and wild berry fruit CHALONE Pinot Noir Chalone Gavilan 2013 90 $22
that’s pleasantly ripe and juicy, offering depth and richness. Strikingly rich and complex, with a dense core of dark berry, black lic-
orice, earth and cedar flavors.
CIRQ Pinot Noir Russian River Valley Treehouse 2013 94 $125
Combining power and finesse, this is rich and extracted, with a supple PALI WINE CO. Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Riviera 2013 90 $22
yet gutsy core of mineral-laced tannins. Offering gorgeous floral scents of lavender, plum, smoke and rasp-
berry, this casts a wide net of red and dark fruit.
FERREN Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Silver Eagle Vineyard 2013 94 $75
Offers smoky, toasty oak, with touches of charcoal and vanilla bean, RON RUBIN Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 2013 89 $25
wrapped around a tight mix of raspberry, black cherry and wild berry. Clean, fresh and vibrant, with a firm yet delicate mix of spicy rasp-
berry and red berry that is well-focused, persistent and lingering.
PAUL HOBBS Pinot Noir Russian River Valley Cuvée 94 $135
Agustina Katherine Lindsay Estate 2013 CASTLE ROCK Pinot Noir California California Cuvée 2013 88 $12
Broad and rich, with a supple, silky texture amid gravelly earth details. Offers aromas of wilted rose, spice, raspberry and blackberry.
An abundance of cherry fruit lends elegance and finesse.
FRANCIS FORD COPPOLA Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 88 $21
KOSTA BROWNE Pinot Noir California 4-Barrel 2014 94 $125 Director’s 2014
Offers amazing aromas of wild berry, spice, cedar, sage and under- Medium-weight cherry and berry flavors are spicy and enjoyable.
brush, with a texture that highlights the strength of the tannins.
EDNA VALLEY Pinot Noir Central Coast 2014 88 $17
KOSTA BROWNE Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands 94 $90 Blueberry and spicy notes fold in amid the charry, toasty oak.
Rosella’s Vineyard 2014
A gorgeous version, ultrarich and graceful, with plump plum, black HAHN Pinot Noir Monterey County 2014 88 $14
cherry and wild berry flavors imparting mouthwatering juiciness. Features earth- and herb-scented dried berry and cedar flavors.

MARCASSIN Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Marcassin Vineyard 2010 94 $150 LAETITIA Pinot Noir Arroyo Grande Valley 2014 88 $25
Moderately rich and fleshy in texture, highlighted by blueberry, rasp- Offers a mix of zesty red berry and creamy oak flavors.
berry and blackberry flavors that gain depth and remain expansive. MACMURRAY RANCH Pinot Noir Central Coast 2013 88 $23
ROCHIOLI Pinot Noir Russian River Valley River Block 2014 94 $86 Fresh and vibrant, with tiers of blueberry, raspberry and strawberry.
Elegant and refined without sacrificing flavor, depth or persistence. MEIOMI Pinot Noir Monterey-Sonoma-Santa Barbara 88 $25
The anise-laced cherry and raspberry notes are supple and caressing. Counties 2014
SOJOURN Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Gap’s Crown Vineyard 2014 94 $59 Offers a rich candied-apple mix of red and dark berry fruit.
Lightly aromatic, but rich and layered, this offers excellent density and
depth, with fine-grained tannic grip.

110 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. 30, 2016

 TASTING REPORT | CALIFORNIA PINOT NOIR

Reviving a The Fetzer brothers

Family Legacy
honor their heritage
growing Pinot in
Eagle Peak
By Augustus Weed

R
ising to 2,699 feet, the vision, seeking advice from Pinot
Eagle Peak appellation maven Greg La Follette. The first
stretches across more vintage was a loss after devastating
than 26,000 acres of re- wildfires covered the region in
mote terrain in northern Mendocino smoke for weeks. But the following
County. It’s home to a single winery, year, they produced their inaugural
Masút, which is Pomo Indian for Pinot, with Jake guiding the grapes
“dark, rich earth.” Jake and Ben to bottle.
Fetzer founded the winery as a trib- There is a natural division of la-
ute to their father, who first planted bor, with Ben, 36, as the farmer. As
the region to Pinot Noir. a child, he often accompanied
The two brothers are third-gener- Bobby on tours of Fetzer’s vine-
ation vintners who grew up in the yards. “I’m more involved in the
vineyards of Mendocino, where winery side of things day to day,
their family founded Fetzer Vine- but we wear a lot of the same hats,”
yards in the 1960s. One of 11 chil- says Jake. “You can get a lot more
dren, their father, Bobby Fetzer, done as a team.”
was the green thumb of a family The brothers converted an old
that came to embody Mendocino barn into a winery. They also spear-
wine. “I always wanted to be in the headed a petition to create an Ea-
family business,” says Jake, 34. “It gle Peak AVA, which was approved
was kind of alluring, something you in 2014, and they replanted some
felt proud of.” of the vineyard to new clones.
After the Fetzers sold the winery Masút is mostly Pinot Noir, with a
to distiller Brown-Forman in 1992 smattering of Chardonnay. It’s di-
(it was later sold to Concha y vided into two sections, planted to
Toro), Bobby established a cattle a mix of heritage and Dijon clones.
ranch. But he yearned to start a The upper portion is dry-farmed
vineyard with his wife, Sheila, and and soars to 1,800 feet in elevation.
their children. The lower section is larger and sits
Turning his gaze to the moun- 800 feet down the hillside on an
tains, Bobby bought land adjacent east-facing slope.
to the family’s ranch in Redwood For the first few vintages, Ben
Valley, where his father, lumberman and Jake experimented with differ-
Barney Fetzer, had planted grapes Brothers Ben (left) and Jake Fetzer started Masút as a tribute to their father, Bobby, who ent parts of the vineyard. Now they
in the 1950s. Bobby later increased founded Fetzer Vineyards and was among the first in Mendocino to plant Pinot Noir. are focused on a single estate wine,
his property to 1,500 acres. blending the sections for additional
In 1997, with his sons in high school, Bobby planted 40 acres to vines. Re- complexity. They ferment and barrel the different blocks separately before
jecting local advice, he chose Pinot Noir because of the region’s unusual cli- determining the final blend.
mate. “He was the kind of guy that liked to go against the mold,” says Jake. “The style that we are making is a little more robust,” Jake explains. “I like
Eagle Peak acts as a gateway between the foggy coastal regions and the a little bit of tannin and rusticness.” The 2014 bottling (90, $45) packs in a
warmer inland Redwood and Potter valleys. It draws in cooling ocean tight core of spicy berry and earth, fanning out to pick up herbal details.
breezes and fog through a gap in the coastal range. Summer afternoons can The Fetzers plan to bottle individual sections in vintages where the quality
be sweltering but once the wind kicks in it doesn’t let up. The slopes are a stands out.
mix of thin, gravelly topsoil that is well-draining, with pockets of deeper al- “I feel like there is a sense of responsibility for me to continue the family
luvial clay soil. business of winemaking,” says Jake. With Masút, the siblings are forging
For years the family sold its grapes and made a little wine. But in 2006 their own path while honoring their legacy.
tragedy struck when Bobby, 50, drowned in a river-rafting accident. The
dream came to a screeching halt. 90 MASÚT Pinot Noir Eagle Peak $45 1,800 cases
The sons took a temporary hiatus. In 2008, they rekindled their father’s Estate Vineyard 2014

SEPT. 30, 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 113

 Buying Guide
Spectator Selections
119 Highly Recommended
119 Collectibles
121 Smart Buys
122 Best Values
120 About the Buying Guide

New Wines From

Around The World
122 Argentina, Austria,
Chile
125 France
131 Greece, Israel
133 Italy
136 New Zealand, Portugal
138 South Africa, Spain
141 California
145 Washington

BY THE NUMBERS
The Sept. 30 Buying Guide features 24 classic
wines and more than 425 outstanding wines
from among reviews of nearly 650 new releases.
Members can access tasting notes and scores for
those wines, along with more than 800 additional
wines reviewed since our last issue, using the
Wine Ratings search at WineSpectator.com.
Craggy Range’s Gimblett Gravels vineyards cover 260 acres of this sun-soaked section of New Zealand’s Hawkes Bay.

SEPT. 30, 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 117

 S P E C TATO R S E L E C T I O N S
Highly Recommended
The issue’s most impressive wines. Includes
top-scorers and wines that represent optimal
purchases based on their combination of score,
price and availability.
96 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Asili
Riserva 2011 $59 ITALY Intense aromas of
cherry, rose, licorice and tar pick up tobacco, spice and
mineral elements on the palate. Concentrated, yet elegant
and expressive, with more to give. Ends with a long after-
taste of fruit, underbrush and mineral. Best from 2018
through 2032. 1,110 cases made.—B.S.
95 Two Vintners Syrah Walla Walla Valley
Some Days Are Stones Stoney Vine Vine-
yard 2013 $45 WASHINGTON Supple and expressive, this
is layered with plum, rose petal, orange peel and bacon
flavors that come together harmoniously and extend into
the long and harmonious finish. Shows great presence and
depth. Drink now through 2023. 150 cases made.—H.S.
94 Hamilton Russell Chardonnay Hemel-en-
Aarde Valley 2015 $37 SOUTH AFRICA Ripe
and rippling with tension, featuring Jonagold apple, white
peach, mirabelle plum and honeysuckle notes coiled at
the core. Accents of heather and hazelnut extend slowly
through the citrus oil– and mineral-edged finish. Best
from 2017 through 2022. 2,700 cases imported.—J.M.
96 Domaine Huët Vouvray Moelleux Le
Haut-Lieu Première Trie 2015 $65 FRANCE
93 Marco & Vittorio Adriano Barbaresco
Basarin 2012 $27 ITALY Sweet strawberry,
cherry and currant fruit weaves throughout this elegant,
Gorgeous from the get-go, featuring notes of creamed
melon, yellow apple and persimmon that glide effortlessly,
inlaid with hints of green tea, verbena, heather and
intense Barbaresco. The structure is assertive, yet this stays quince. The long finish has beautiful flow, with a buried
fresh and vibrant on the long finish. Floral and leafy un- mineral edge imparting freshness while the fruit plays out.
derbrush notes add depth. Best from 2018 through 2030. Best from 2018 through 2040. 200 cases imported.—J.M.
1,700 cases made.—B.S.
95 Philippe Colin Chevalier-Montrachet 2014
$213 FRANCE A whiff of seashore complements
the peach, lemon and toasty baking spice flavors in this
93 Álvaro Palacios Priorat Les Terrasses
Velles Vinyes 2014 $40 SPAIN Graceful and
harmonious, this red shows good depth, balancing juicy
enticing white. Focused and harmonious through the long,
juicy finish, lingering with an aftertaste of pastry. Drink
now through 2025. 60 cases imported.—B.S.
cherry and berry flavors with notes of vanilla, mountain
herb and mineral. Light tannins and juicy acidity impart
focus. Drink now through 2022. 12,000 cases made.—T.M.
Collectibles
Wines that will improve most from additional
bottle age and that show the greatest potential to
gain in value.
94 R. Rostaing Côte-Rôtie Côte Blonde 2013
$190 FRANCE Gorgeous white pepper and savory
notes leap out, quickly followed by a solid core of bitter
cherry, red currant and damson plum fruit. The finish is
racy and tightly coiled, revealing a strong and persistent
iron accent. Riveting acidity underscores this cellar-
worthy version. Best from 2018 through 2028. 33 cases
imported.—J.M.
97 Domaine Huët Vouvray Moelleux Clos du
Bourg Première Trie 2015 $70 FRANCE
Concentrated, with a core of intense Jonagold apple, glazed
Bosc pear, ginger cream and dried quince flavors, carried
by filigreed acidity and backed by green tea, verbena, cham-
omile and persimmon notes. The finish is extremely long.
Best from 2018 through 2040. 300 cases imported.—J.M.
Buying Guide cover photograph by Richard Brimer.
SEPT. 30, 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 119
 Spectator SelectionS: Collectibles

About the Buying Guide

T his Buying Guide contains ratings of new releases from around the world and the results of special tastings
reported on in greater depth elsewhere in the issue.
Complete tasting notes are provided for all new releases scoring 85 or more points (on the Wine Spectator
100-point scale, explained below); notes for wines scoring 84 points or less are included at the discretion of the
taster. Additional reviews appear on our website, www.winespectator.com.
Each review carries the initials of the Wine Spectator editor who blind-tasted and scored the wine and wrote
the review, based on the regional specializations indicated below. If no reviewer’s initials appear, the wine was
tasted by a panel of Wine Spectator editors. 94 R. Rostaing Côte-Rôtie Côte Brune 2013
$190 FRANCE Alluring, with flavors of dark, rich
plum, currant preserves and cherry paste melded with
James Laube California dried bay leaf, dark olive and smoldering charcoal notes.
Harvey Steiman Oregon, Washington The long finish shows tangy cut and flecks of pepper as
Thomas Matthews Spain all the elements pull together. Best from 2017 through
2028. 33 cases imported.—J.M.
Kim Marcus Argentina, Austria, Chile, Germany, Portugal
Bruce Sanderson Burgundy, Italy
James Molesworth Bordeaux, Loire Valley, Rhône Valley, South Africa
MaryAnn Worobiec Australia, California, New Zealand
Alison Napjus Alsace, Beaujolais, Champagne, Italy
Tim Fish California
Gillian Sciaretta France

How We Do the Tastings

Wine Spectator editors taste approximately 20,000 wines each year. Wines are tasted in our offices in New York
and Napa, Calif. Tastings are also conducted on location in various European winegrowing regions.
All tastings are conducted in private, under controlled conditions. Wines are always tasted blind, in flights
organized by varietal, appellation or region. Bottles are bagged and coded. Tasters are told only the general type of
wine (varietal or region) and the vintage. Price is not taken into account. Each tasting begins with a wine
previously rated, which is tasted non-blind as a reference point. Other already-rated wines are inserted into the
94 R. Rostaing Côte-Rôtie La Landonne 2013
$175 FRANCE Solid, with a bay leaf and olive
streak piercing the core of dark cherry and steeped plum
blind tasting to ensure consistency. A typical tasting-session consists of 20 to 30 wines, with a maximum of two fruit. A tangy iron edge drives the finish, with a juniper
sessions per day. We retaste many wines to confirm impressions, always in subsequent blind tastings. echo checking in at the very end. Shows good range
Notes and ratings are entered directly into our database prior to the removal of the bags. Additional comments and definition. Best from 2017 through 2027. 50 cases
may be added to a note after the identity of the wine is revealed, but the score is never changed. imported.—J.M.

Featured Wines: Spectator Selections, Labels and Photographs

Each issue, our editors choose wines with special qualities; called Spectator Selections, they are highlighted in the
first pages of this Buying Guide, along with their labels. The categories are described below. In addition, selected
reviews throughout the Buying Guide include a photograph of a winery principal, presenting these producers in a
more personal way. All labels and images are chosen by Wine Spectator for editorial purposes only and do not
represesent any commercial transaction between Wine Spectator and the producers whose wines are featured.
Highly Recommended: The issue’s most impressive wines. Includes top-scorers and wines that
represent optimal purchases based on their combination of score, price and availability.
Collectibles: Wines that will improve most from additional bottle age and that show the greatest
potential to gain in value.
Smart Buys: Wines that deliver fine character at affordable prices and that are broadly available.
Best Values: Wines with solid scores, modest prices and wide distribution.

About Prices and Wines Tasted

Prices shown reflect the suggested retail price. When the suggested retail price is not available, we publish the
94 Salon Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne
Le Mesnil 2004 $520 FRANCE This elegant
Champagne features ripe, up-front aromas and flavors of
prevailing wholesale price with a standard markup added. Actual retail prices may vary. dried apricot, crystallized honey and candied kumquat,
Wines are chosen for tasting from among those sent to our offices for review and those purchased at retail. giving way on the creamy palate to more subtle notes of
Because we for the most part serve a U.S. audience, we prefer to review wines that are widely available there. raw almond, fleur de sel and star anise. Mouthwatering,
with a chalky underpinning and a lovely, satiny finish.
About the 100-Point Scale Drink now through 2026. 500 cases imported.—A.N.
Ratings reflect how highly our editors regard each wine relative to other wines in its category and are based on
potential quality—how good the wine will be when at its peak. The score summarizes a wine’s overall quality;
the tasting note describes the wine’s style and character.
95–100 Classic: a great wine
90–94 Outstanding: a wine of superior character and style
85–89 Very good: a wine with special qualities
80–84 Good: a solid, well-made wine
75–79 Mediocre: a drinkable wine that may have minor flaws
50–74 Not recommended

120 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. 30, 2016

 Spectator SelectionS: Smart Buys

Smart Buys
Wines that deliver fine character at affordable
prices and that are broadly available.

90 Chalone Pinot Noir Chalone Gavilan 2013

$22 CALIFORNIA Strikingly rich and complex,
with a dense core of dark berry, black licorice, earth and
cedar flavors that hold their own, easing up on the finish.
Drink now. 6,000 cases made.—J.L.

91 Bodegas Godeval Valdeorras Viña Godeval

Cepas Vellas 2014 $20 SPAIN Pear, peach and
quince flavors mingle in this expressive white, while notes
of mineral, tangerine and ginger add complexity. Shows
depth and focus, with a clean, juicy finish. Drink now.
1,800 cases imported.—T.M.

90 Concha y Toro Carmenère Peumo

Marqués de Casa Concha 2014 $26 CHILE
A suave and plush red, with concentrated, well-spiced
flavors of dried blueberry, blackberry and roasted plum.
Minerally midpalate, followed by a finish of mocha and

91 Régis Minet Pouilly-Fumé Vieilles Vignes dried green herbal notes. Drink now through 2019. 22,900
2014 $24 FRANCE Bright and pure, with thyme, cases made.—K.M.
gooseberry and white peach notes racing along, carried
by a long, flinty finish. Shows lovely, mouthwatering cut.
A textbook version. Drink now through 2017. 1,844 cases
imported.—J.M.

HAND-MADE
MOUTH-BLOWN
IN AUSTRIA

90 Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi Toscana Tenuta

di Castiglioni 2013 $25 ITALY Bright cherry
fruit leads the way, accented by notes of earth and spice,
revealing a moderately firm structure for support. Elegant

91 Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico overall, with a savory element kicking in as this lingers.
Riserva 2013 $25 ITALY Pure cherry takes Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Sangio-
center stage, framed by tar, earth, tobacco and mineral vese. Drink now through 2022. 25,000 cases made.—B.S.
elements. Vivid and elegant, showing fine intensity and
equilibrium, with a lingering aftertaste. Drink now
through 2020. 17,000 cases imported.—B.S.

W I N E S P E C TATO R .CO M
RIEDEL.COM
For more than 342,000 wine ratings, use WineSpectator
.com’s Wine Ratings search, where members can search
by winery, wine name, region, variety, vintage, price and
score. Find it at www.winespectator.com/wine.

SEPT. 30, 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 121

 Spectator SelectionS: Smart Buys / Best Values / New Releases: Argentina

Best Values
Wines with solid scores, modest prices and wide
distribution.

90 Jean Perrier & Fils Savoie Apremont

Cuvée Gastronomie 2015 $16 FRANCE
Yellow apple, fennel and lemon zest notes form the core,
while lively floral and quinine accents stretch out the fin-
ish. Not big, but offers lovely cut and purity. Very refresh-
ing. Drink now through 2017. 9,500 cases made.—J.M. 87 Vicente Gandía Utiel-Requena Hoya de
Cadenas Reserva Privada 2012 $10 SPAIN
This lean red offers dried cherry, tobacco, forest floor and
smoke flavors, with light, firm tannins and orange peel
acidity. Not a big wine, but balanced. Tempranillo and
Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now through 2018. 50,000
cases made.—T.M.

88 Valentín Bianchi Cabernet Sauvignon San

Rafael-Argentina Finca Los Primos 2015
$12 ARGENTINA A juicy style, with red plum and boysen-
berry flavors that feature notes of hot stone. Crisp and
minerally on the finish, showing green herbal accents.
Drink now through 2018. 25,000 cases made.—K.M.

90 Southern Right Sauvignon Blanc Walker

Bay 2015 $19 SOUTH AFRICA Juicy and well-
built, with a solid core of lemon zest and pith notes stretch-
ing out through the finish, picking up gooseberry, jicama
and verbena accents. Drink now through 2018. 5,100
cases imported.—J.M.
86 Fairview Goats do Roam Red Western
Cape 2015 $10 SOUTH AFRICA Direct, with ripe
cherry pie and plum pâte de fruit flavors, lined with subtle
vanilla and anise notes and followed by a juicy finish.
Shiraz, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Petite Sirah, Cinsault and
Carignan. Drink now. 30,000 cases made.—J.M.

New Wines From Around the World

88 Viña Santa Carolina Cabernet Sauvignon
Colchagua Valley Reserva 2014 $11 CHILE
Zesty, with dried green herbal notes to the fresh red plum
90 Trimbach Riesling Alsace 2014 $22
FRANCE A creamy white, with fine cut defined
by firm acidity, this shows finely meshed flavors of pear,
and berry flavors. Olive and mineral accents show on the
finish. Drink now through 2019. 40,000 cases made.—K.M.
smoke, fleur de sel, anise and lemon meringue. Drink now
through 2021. 3,000 cases imported.—A.N.
87 Boekenhoutskloof The Wolftrap Red
Western Cape 2015 $12 SOUTH AFRICA Ripe
and focused, with dark plum and boysenberry fruit lined
with licorice snap notes. Shows modest toast through the
ARGENTINA
93
Cuvelier Los Andes Grand Malbec Uco Val-
ley 2012 $60 A big, grippy red, with dense, powerful
and lavishly spiced flavors of blackberry, dark plum and
dried cherry. Creamy midpalate, presenting a long, rich
finish filled with pepper and cocoa powder notes. Drink
now through 2021. 600 cases made.—K.M.
92 Cheval des Andes Mendoza 2012 $99
A dense, rich and ripe red, with well-structured flavors of
dark cherry, plum and chocolate. The creamy finish is
filled with Asian spice and minerally notes, revealing lin-
gering blackberry accents. Drink now through 2020. 3,500
cases made.—K.M.
92 Viña Cobos Malbec Uco Valley Bramare 2013
$45 Concentrated and rich, featuring flavors of dark
cherry, roasted plum and currant, with notes of black ol-
ive and tarragon. Dark chocolate and savory spice details
on the finish are supported by firm tannins. Drink now
through 2020. 1,500 cases imported.—K.M.
91 Viña Cobos Malbec Luján de Cuyo Bramare
2013 $45 A savory and finely textured red, with a

90 Finca Villacreces Ribera del Duero

Pruno 2014 $20 SPAIN Plum and boysenberry
flavors are ripe and juicy in this plump red. Notes of tar
juicy finish. Syrah, Mourvèdre and Viognier. Drink now.
17,500 cases imported.—J.M.
svelte structure and rich flavors of hot stone, dried raspberry
and cedar. Cocoa powder accents enliven the spicy and
fresh finish. Best after 2019. 1,500 cases imported.—K.M.
and mineral impart a savory aspect, while firm tannins
and orange peel acidity lend focus. Drink now through
90 Viña Cobos Cabernet Sauvignon Luján de
Cuyo Bramare 2013 $42 A ripe and plush red, with
2024. 5,000 cases imported.—T.M. a deep well of roasted plum, dark cherry and dried black-
berry flavors that feature a creamy texture. The richly
spiced finish is loaded with molten chocolate accents.
Drink now through 2019. 900 cases imported.—K.M.

122 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. 30, 2016

 New Releases: Argentina / Austria
90 Cuvelier Los Andes Grand Vin Uco Valley
2010 $35 A rich and juicy red, with engaging floral
notes to the crushed red plum, cherry tart and dried rasp-
berry flavors, accented by white pepper and paprika de-
tails. Chocolate mousse accents show on the finish.
Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Merlot and
Syrah. Drink now through 2018. 4,000 cases made.—K.M.
90 Finca Flichman Dedicado Mendoza 2014
$40 Savory, with red currant, plum tart and dried rasp-
berry flavors, supported by lively acidity. Very svelte, of-
fering a long and richly spiced finish filled with minerally
notes. Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. Drink
now. 3,000 cases made.—K.M.
90 Piattelli Malbec Cafayate
Valley Grand Reserve 2014 $22
Rich and well-spiced, with creamy
flavors of plum, cherry tart and
blackberry, supported by medium-
grained tannins. Dark chocolate
and Asian spice notes fill the ripe,
powerful finish. Drink now through
2021. 1,200 cases made.—K.M.
ALEJANDRO NESMAN
Winemaker
90 Piattelli Malbec Luján de Cuyo Grand
Reserve 2013 $22 Well-structured, with dense, rich
flavors of ripe plum, cherry tart and dark currant, featur-
ing notes of slate and mocha. The lusciously creamy fin-
ish is filled with chocolate mousse accents. Drink now
through 2019. 1,815 cases made.—K.M.
89 Alamos Malbec Mendoza Selección 2014
$20 Pure and crisp, showing hints of dried beef to the
luscious flavors of plum, dried cherry and boysenberry,
accented by notes of hot stone. Shows a sinewy texture
on the finish. Drink now through 2019. 20,000 cases
imported.—K.M.
89 Cuvelier Los Andes Cabernet Sauvignon
Uco Valley 2013 $20 Savory and full of rich and
powerfully spiced flavors of dried berry, roasted plum and
slate. Shows alluring minerality, with a fresh, focused fin-
ish, accented by hints of green herb. Drink now through
2019. 1,000 cases made.—K.M.
89 Piattelli Malbec Luján de Cuyo Premium
Reserve 2014 $17 This features some peppery notes
to the red plum and boysenberry flavors, lengthening out
with bittersweet chocolate details. The spicy finish is fresh
and crunchy. Drink now through 2019. 20,776 cases
made.—K.M.
88 Valentín Bianchi Cabernet Sauvignon San
Rafael-Argentina Finca Los Primos 2015 $12 See
Best Values, page 122.
87 Alamos Red Blend Mendoza 2014 $13
A juicy red, with plum and raspberry flavors accented by
notes of hot stone. Supple and spicy on the finish. Mal-
bec, Bonarda, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. Drink now.
70,000 cases imported.—K.M.
87 Valentín Bianchi Malbec San Rafael-Argen-
tina Finca Los Primos 2015 $12 Moderately ripe,
with roasted plum and cherry tart flavors, accented by
notes of juniper berry. The spicy finish has some savory
herbal hints. Drink now. 50,000 cases made.—K.M.
87 Viña Cobos Malbec Mendoza Felino 2014
$23 Taut, with notes of paprika to the mocha, dried
cherry and dark plum flavors. The savory finish has firm
tannins. Drink now. 16,000 cases imported.—K.M.
87 Finca Flichman Malbec Mendoza Reserva
2015 $15 Taut yet juicy, with piney and white pepper
notes to the cherry tart and boysenberry flavors. Spicy
finish. Drink now. 32,000 cases made.—K.M.
87 Ricardo Santos Sémillon Mendoza Una
Seleccion de la Finca de Roberto Azaretto 2015
$16 Off-dry, with peach and apricot flavors on a light
frame. Honey and spice details fill the finish, accented by
floral notes. Drink now. 1,000 cases made.—K.M.
86 Finca Flichman Malbec Mendoza Misterio
2015 $10 A plummy and supple red, with notes of
chocolate and spice that turn creamy. Hints of pepper
show on the finish. Drink now. 120,000 cases made.—K.M.
AUSTRIA
95 Franz Hirtzberger Grüner Veltliner Smaragd
Trocken Wachau Honivogl 2014 $80 This sings
across the palate, with a complex and luscious array of
richly spiced peach, pineapple, apple and lemon curd fla-
vors. Very creamy midpalate, featuring a finish flooded
with white chocolate and savory herbal notes, offering
impressive structure. Drink now through 2025. 30 cases
imported.—K.M.
94 Franz Hirtzberger Grüner Veltliner Smaragd
Trocken Wachau Axpoint 2014 $50 Unctuous, with
seductive minerality and spiciness to the flavors of roasted
peach, ripe pineapple, apple and guava. The rich finish is
filled with honeysuckle and lemon cream notes. Pure and
dry. Drink now through 2022. 25 cases imported.—K.M.
93 F.X. Pichler Grüner Veltliner Smaragd
Trocken Wachau Dürnsteiner Kellerberg 2014 $85
An elegant and creamy white, with fresh minerality to
the well-spiced flavors of apple tart, baked pear and peach
cobbler. Savory midpalate, featuring a crunchy finish that
offers slate and dried sage accents. Drink now through
2022. 45 cases imported.—K.M.
93 F.X. Pichler Grüner Veltliner Smaragd
Trocken Wachau Loibner Loibenberg 2014 $57
Luscious and creamy, featuring notes of angel food cake
to the peach cobbler, lemon meringue and apple tart fla-
vors. Spicy and rich midpalate, with a finish that lingers
with flan and cocoa details. Drink now through 2022. 25
cases imported.—K.M.
92 F.X. Pichler Grüner Veltliner Smaragd
Trocken Wachau Dürnsteiner Liebenberg 2014 $62
Juicy and rich, with apple tart, Key lime pie and peach
cobbler flavors that feature notes of white pepper and pas-
try. Cocoa powder and allspice accents show on the pow-
erfully spicy finish. Drink now through 2021. 50 cases
imported.—K.M.
92 F.X. Pichler Grüner Veltliner Smaragd
Trocken Wachau Loibner Steinertal 2014 $57
Minerally and peppery, with crisp Gala apple and white
peach flavors, supported by vibrant acidity. Lemon drop
notes linger on the spicy and fresh finish. Drink now
through 2019. 30 cases imported.—K.M.
91 Birgit Eichinger Grüner
Veltliner Qualitätswein Trocken
Kamptal Hasel 2015 $17 A
powerful and savory white, with con-
centrated green peach, apple and
white cherry flavors, accented by
sage and white pepper notes. Lemon
curd and chamomile details show on
the finish. Drink now through 2020. BIRGIT EICHINGER
235 cases imported.—K.M. Owner & Winemaker
91 Pichler-Krutzler Grüner Veltliner Qualitäts-
wein Trocken Wachau Kellerberg 2014 $55 Plush,
with a distinctive vein of mocha running through the fla-
vors of baked pineapple and ripe peach. Very minerally,
featuring a finish that echoes with smoke and spice ac-
cents. Drink now through 2020. 20 cases imported.—K.M.
90 Birgit Eichinger Grüner Veltliner Qualitäts-
wein Trocken Kamptal Wechselberg 2015 $22
Ripe, with luscious white chocolate and spice notes to the
apple, pear and melon flavors. Lentil accents show midpal-
ate, with a finish that lingers with light smoke and spice
hints. Drink now through 2020. 60 cases imported.—K.M.
SEPT. 30, 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 123

90 Markowitsch Pinot Noir Qualitätswein
Trocken Carnuntum 2013 $21 Refined, fruity and
pure, with a rich mix of cherry, red plum and forest floor
flavors, supported silky tannins and fresh acidity. Sandal-
wood and spice details show on the lithe finish. Drink
now through 2019. 35 cases imported.—K.M.
90 Pfaffl Grüner Veltliner Qualitätswein Trocken
Weinviertel Goldjoch Reserve 2015 $50 Notes of
lanolin and beeswax give richness to the peach, mineral
and apple tart flavors. White pepper details linger on the
creamy finish, with accents of tarragon. Drink now
through 2019. 150 cases imported.—K.M.
90 Pfaffl Saint Laurent Qualitätswein Trocken
Niederösterreich Altenberg Reserve 2013 $32
Deeply colored, with dense, concentrated flavors of dark
plum, dried cherry and green herbs. Shows plenty of pep-
pery notes, revealing a finish supported by firm tannins
and filled with savory accents. Drink now through 2019.
250 cases imported.—K.M.
90 Pfaffl Zweigelt Qualitätswein Trocken
Niederösterreich Burggarten Reserve 2013 $41
A powerful and inky red, featuring concentrated flavors
of dark currant, black olive and pepper. Shows firm tan-
nins on the finish, with notes of dried green herb. Best
from 2017 through 2020. 200 cases imported.—K.M.
90 F.X. Pichler Grüner Veltliner Federspiel
Trocken Wachau Loibner Frauenweingarten 2014
$36 A juicy white, with concentrated peach, green
apple and ripe lime flavors, accented by lemon curd and
sage cream notes. Fresh acidity lingers with savory details
on the fresh finish. Drink now through 2019. 100 cases
imported.—K.M.
www.disznoko.hu
124 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. 30, 2016
New Releases: Austria / Chile
90 E. & M. Tement Sauvignon Blanc Qualitäts-
wein Trocken Südsteiermark Zieregg 2013 $56
Succulent and full of lush flavors of white cherry, plum
and wild herbs, backed by crisp acidity. The complex,
lively finish lingers with notes of sage and dried mint.
Drink now. 20 cases imported.—K.M.
89 Markowitsch Qualitätswein Trocken Carnun-
tum Rubin 2014 $19 Peppery notes grace this me-
dium-bodied red, which offers juicy flavors of red fruit and
berry. Tobacco leaf and chocolate details show on the rich
finish. Drink now through 2019. 25 cases imported.—K.M.
89 F.X. Pichler Grüner Veltliner Federspiel
Trocken Wachau Loibner Klostersatz 2014 $37
Crunchy, with green peach and apple flavors, accented by
notes of lemon and lime. Dried tarragon and cream hints
show on the finish. Drink now. 80 cases imported.—K.M.
CHILE
91 De Martino Chardonnay Limarí Valley
Quebrada Seca Single Vineyard 2014 $45 This is
powerfully fruity and complex, with flavors of pear tart,
apple pastry and ripe tangerine that glide across the pal-
ate. Shows spicy richness midpalate, with plenty of creami-
ness on the well-structured finish. Drink now through
2020. 455 cases made.—K.M.
91 Viña Quebrada de Macul Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon Maipo Valley Domus Aurea 2011 $65 This
pure and polished version offers a minty aroma, with fresh
and intensely spiced flavors of dark cherry, dried berry and
plum tart. Minerally midpalate, showing some beefy ac-
cents. Medium-grained tannins emerge on the finish.
Drink now through 2020. 1,900 cases made.—K.M.
91 Viña Santa Carolina Carmenère Peumo
Herencia 2011 $100 This big red takes on mature
notes, offering well-crafted, lively and spicy flavors of dried
berry, olive, forest floor and tar. Dried herbal accents show
midpalate, revealing hints of licorice on the finish. Drink
now through 2019. 605 cases made.—K.M.
90 Viña Carmen Cabernet Sauvignon Maipo
Valley Gold Reserve 2010 $50 Well-spiced, with
dark currant and roasted plum flavors that turn ripe and
complex midpalate. The firm tannins show some minty
notes on the finish. Drink now. 1,100 cases made.—K.M.
90 Chateau Los Boldos Cabernet Sauvignon
Alto Cachapoal Grand Reserve 2014 $17 A big
and ripe red, with plenty of dried herbal notes to the rich
roasted plum and dark cherry flavors. Licorice and dark
chocolate accents extend on the pure finish. Drink now
through 2020. 4,125 cases made.—K.M.
90 Concha y Toro Carmenère Peumo Marqués
de Casa Concha 2014 $26 See Smart Buys, page 121.
90 Garcia & Schwaderer Facundo Chile 2012
$35 Intensely juicy, with zesty flavors of plum, red berry
and currant, supported by snappy acidity. Pure and min-
erally midpalate, showing cedar hints on the finish. Drink
now through 2020. 1,774 cases made.—K.M.
90 Viña Santa Carolina Cabernet Sauvignon
Maipo Valley Reserva de Familia 2014 $20
Powerful and pure, with intense minerality to the dark
plum, dried blackberry and black olive flavors. Firm tan-
nins show on the finish, revealing plenty of dark choco-
late and mocha notes. Drink now through 2020. 200 cases
made.—K.M.
89 Apaltagua Cabernet Sauvignon Maipo
Valley Signature 2013 $40 Lithe and rich-tasting,
with luscious spice notes to the dark cherry, plum tart and
blackberry flavors. Cocoa powder and vanilla accents fill
the creamy finish. Drink now through 2018. 2,100 cases
made.—K.M.
89 Chateau Los Boldos Cabernet Sauvignon
Cachapoal Cuvée Tradition 2014 $13 Offers a taut
frame, with fresh-tasting dried cherry and plum tart
flavors, backed by firm acidity. White pepper details show
midpalate, leading to an engaging, juicy finish. Drink now
through 2020. 23,675 cases made.—K.M.
89 Garcia & Schwaderer Bravado Chile 2014
$20 Offers aromas of fresh-crushed red fruits and flavors
of raspberry, red plum and boysenberry. Presents vibrant
acidity, with a finish that offers hints of licorice and cin-
namon. Drink now through 2019. 986 cases made.—K.M.
89 Viña Santa Carolina Chardonnay Limarí
Valley Reserva de Familia 2014 $20 Rich and well-
crafted, with concentrated ripe pear, apple pastry and al-
mond tart notes. The buttery finish is long and spicy,
supported by fresh acidity. Drink now through 2019. 288
cases made.—K.M.
88 Viña Santa Carolina Cabernet Sauvignon
Colchagua Valley Reserva 2014 $11 See Best
Values, page 122.
88 Viña Santa Carolina Carmenère Cachapoal
Valley Reserva 2014 $11 A fleshy red, with notes of
dried green herbs to the well-spiced flavors of dark plum
and cherry tart. Dark chocolate and smoky accents linger
on the broad, tannic finish. Drink now through 2018.
33,360 cases made.—K.M.
87 Viña Santa Carolina Pinot Noir Leyda Valley
Reserva 2015 $11 Offers a fruity aroma, with flavors
of cherry, sandalwood and red plum, matched to bright
acidity. Leafy notes show on the juicy finish. Drink now.
4,392 cases made.—K.M.
 New Releases: France
FRANCE
Alsace / Riesling
94 Albert Boxler Riesling Alsace Grand Cru
Sommerberg Dudenstein 2013 $85 A stunning
white, offering impeccable balance and a beautifully
meshed mix of melon, star fruit, blanched almond and
lemon granita flavors, with rapier acidity. Long and ele-
gant, presenting a lasting, mineral-driven finish. Drink
now through 2028. 25 cases imported.—A.N.
93 Albert Boxler Riesling Alsace Grand Cru
Sommerberg Eckberg 2013 $85 A firm and focused
version, tightly knit and lip-smacking, this is almost
crunchy on the palate, with yellow plum and white peach
fruit notes and accents of grated ginger and lemon zest.
A pronounced streak of salinity gains momentum and
echoes on the finish. Best from 2018 through 2028. 35
cases imported.—A.N.
93 Zind-Humbrecht Ries-
ling Alsace Hunawihr Clos
Windsbuhl 2014 $80 Laserlike
acidity defines this statuesque
Riesling, while the mouthwatering
palate offers flavors of lime granita,
crunchy white peach, fleur de sel
and Thai basil. Long and vibrant,
with a lasting, minerally finish.
Drink now through 2028. 240 cases OLIVIER HUMBRECHT
imported.—A.N. Owner & Winemaker
92 Albert Boxler Riesling Alsace Grand Cru
Brand 2013 $79 A lovely, lithe white, with a lacy
texture, beautiful balance and integration of the struc-
tured acidity, aromatic stone and smoke character. Fea-
tures flavors of star fruit, green pear, fresh tarragon and
Meyer lemon zest. Drink now through 2026. 42 cases
imported.—A.N.
92 Albert Mann Riesling Alsace Grand Cru
Furstentum 2014 $45 Aromatic, with rich, petrol-
tinged minerality, this elegant white offers a lightly sweet,
juicy and silky palate of green melon, Brazil nut, lemon
curd and lanolin. Well-balanced, with a lingering, mouth-
watering finish of fleur de sel and petrol. Drink now
through 2026. 10 cases imported.—A.N.
92 Meyer-Fonné Riesling Alsace Grand Cru
Schoenenbourg 2013 $54 Licorice and mineral aro-
mas and flavors waft through Asian pear, melon and lemon
sorbet flavors in this vivacious Riesling. Long and sleek,
with a lingering, spiced finish. Drink now through 2026.
5 cases imported.—A.N.
92 Trimbach Riesling Alsace Réserve 2013 $28
An austere, monolithic white, with intense acidity driven
by abundant minerality. Subtle notes of melon rind, lemon
preserves, ground white pepper and spring forest should
gain momentum with additional air or cellar time. Best
from 2019 through 2026. 300 cases imported.—A.N.
92 Zind-Humbrecht Riesling Alsace Grand Cru
Rangen de Thann Clos St.-Urbain 2014 $120
An aromatic, elegant version, featuring gingersnap and
spice accents to the flavors of poached peach and pear
fruit, orchard blossom, smoke and saline. Lithe and fo-
cused by firm acidity, with a lingering, racy finish. Drink
now through 2024. 145 cases imported.—A.N.
92 Zind-Humbrecht Riesling Alsace Roche
Calcaire 2014 $55 A rich version of Riesling, with a
broad, creamy mix of ripe nectarine, pink grapefruit zest,
grated ginger and green almond, enlivened by vivacious
acidity that crackles through to the lasting, saline-tinged
finish. Drink now through 2026. 800 cases imported.—A.N.
91 Ostertag Riesling Alsace Vignoble d’E 2014
$28 Harmonious, with a fine layering of firm acidity,
smoke- and stone-tinged minerality, and melon, mandarin
orange peel, blanched almond and spice flavors, creating a
lithe and delicate impression overall. Should expand with
air. Drink now through 2024. 205 cases imported.—A.N.
91 Domaines Schlumberger Riesling Alsace
Grand Cru Saering 2013 $29 An aromatic white,
with ground spice and fresh-chopped herb accents, this
finely knit, fresh and linear version offers an underpin-
ning of smoky minerality and creamy flavors of dried apri-
cot, kumquat and melon. Drink now through 2023. 450
cases imported.—A.N.
91 Trimbach Riesling Alsace Réserve 2014 $28
A firm, bone-dry version, with a subtle mix of crunchy
white peach, acacia blossom, Meyer lemon zest and pet-
rol. This is tightly knit now, but the balance and focus
suggest it should open with short-term cellaring. Best from
2019 through 2024. 300 cases imported.—A.N.
90 Trimbach Riesling Alsace 2014 $22 See
Smart Buys, page 122.
90 Zind-Humbrecht Riesling Alsace Turckheim
2014 $26 Well-spiced and creamy, this light- to
medium-bodied version features flavors of poached peach
and melon fruit, with grapefruit zest and slivered almond
framed by racy acidity that creates a mouthwatering im-
pression on the minerally finish. Drink now through 2024.
800 cases imported.—A.N.
FRANCE
Alsace / Pinot Gris
93 Albert Boxler Pinot Gris Alsace Grand Cru
Brand 2013 $79 Sleek and smoky, this is Pinot Gris
in a more linear format, with racy acidity and a streak of
minerality driving the palate’s creamy Asian pear, orange
granita, honeysuckle and blanched almond notes. Offers
a long, lacy finish. Drink now through 2026. 40 cases
imported.—A.N.
93 Albert Boxler Pinot Gris Alsace Grand Cru
Sommerberg Wiptal 2013 $79 A lush and creamy
Pinot Gris, with flavors of candied kumquat, dried papaya,
grated coconut and spun honey layered with racy acidity,
resulting in a rich, medium- to full-bodied version that
remains light-footed and mouthwatering. Smoky finish.
Drink now through 2023. 45 cases imported.—A.N.
93 Zind-Humbrecht Pinot Gris Alsace Hunawihr
Clos Windsbuhl 2014 $80 An elegant version, with
racy acidity and a lacy texture carrying the finely woven
mix of yellow peach, spring blossom, orange zest and Bra-
zil nut. Long and minerally on the mouthwatering, spiced
finish. Drink now through 2027. 280 cases imported.—A.N.
93 Zind-Humbrecht Pinot Gris Alsace Wintzen-
heim Rotenberg 2014 $60 A broad-shouldered, dry
Pinot Gris, with a minerally underpinning and flavors of
grainy green pear, star anise, slivered almond and manda-
rin orange peel. Long and finely balanced, with a floral
overtone and a mouthwatering impression. Drink now
through 2027. 200 cases imported.—A.N.
92 Trimbach Pinot Gris Alsace Réserve Person-
nelle 2013 $46 Bright and creamy, this harmonious
white wraps vibrant acidity with layers of honeyed apri-
cot, lemon parfait, creamed almond and fleur de sel.
Medium-bodied and mouthwatering, with exotic spice,
mineral and lemon zest accents playing on the finish.
Drink now through 2023. 150 cases imported.—A.N.
92 Zind-Humbrecht Pinot Gris Alsace Roche
Calcaire 2014 $55 Though the aromas and flavors of
dried apricot, papaya and orange peel are rich and ripe in
character, this broad white is dry and lip-smacking over-
all, focused by intense acidity. The pronounced mineral-
ity echoes smoke and saline notes, with almond skin and
paraffin hints lingering on the finish. Drink now through
2027. 170 cases imported.—A.N.
91 Albert Mann Pinot Gris Alsace Grand Cru
Furstentum 2013 $34 Dry and minerally, this well-
knit version features fleshy dried apricot, slivered almond,
fleur de sel and orange sorbet flavors. Hints of fresh-
chopped herb, spice and smoke play on the finish. Drink
now through 2021. 20 cases imported.—A.N.
SEPT. 30, 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 125

91 Albert Mann Pinot Gris Alsace Rosenberg
2014 $24 Vibrant acidity imparts a sense of finesse to
this lithe Pinot Gris, while a subtle streak of smoky min-
erality drives the flavors of yellow plum, Asian pear and
lemon parfait. Offers a lingering, zesty finish. Drink now
through 2021. 60 cases imported.—A.N.
90 Trimbach Pinot Gris Alsace Réserve 2014
$25 Well-knit flavors of apricot, yellow plum, lemon
curd and paraffin are structured by a firm backbone of
acidity in this finely balanced, medium-bodied white.
Offers a savory, smoke-tinged finish. Drink now through
2024. 1,500 cases imported.—A.N.
90 Zind-Humbrecht Pinot Gris Alsace Turck-
heim 2014 $26 An open-knit version, with a clean-
cut mix of savory minerality, Gala apple, floral and
clementine notes. The lovely balance and snappy acidity
make this hard to stop sipping. Lightly smoky on the
lingering finish. Drink now through 2021. 800 cases
imported.—A.N.
89 Domaines Schlumberger Pinot Gris Alsace
Les Princes Abbés 2014 $18 A crowd-pleaser, with
lively, juicy acidity balancing an appealing mix of ripe
nectarine, salted almond and orange granita flavors.
Offers a tangy, mineral-tinged finish. Drink now through
2019. 1,000 cases imported.—A.N.
FRANCE
Alsace / Other
92 Trimbach Gewürztraminer Alsace Cuvée des
Seigneurs de Ribeaupierre 2013 $48 This elegant
version is dry and finely meshed, with vibrant acidity and
a rich streak of minerality framing the flavors of honey-
dew melon, grapefruit sorbet, green almond and grated
ginger. Lightly mouthwatering, featuring a zesty finish.
This should open up with decanting or short-term cellar-
ing. Drink now through 2023. 200 cases imported.—A.N.
92 Zind-Humbrecht Muscat Alsace Grand Cru
Gueberschwihr Goldert 2014 $65 Lacy in texture
and mouthwatering throughout, this racy white offers rich
minerality and tightly knit flavors of nectarine, Thai ba-
sil, pink grapefruit sorbet and ground white pepper. Drink
now through 2021. 150 cases imported.—A.N.
90 Trimbach Gewürztraminer Alsace 2014 $25
Linear and finely knit, this offers fresh acidity throughout
and flavors of cantaloupe, orchard blossom, nectarine and
pickled ginger, underscored by clean-cut minerality that
defines the finish. Not a powerhouse, but very elegant.
Drink now through 2021. 2,000 cases imported.—A.N.
90 Zind-Humbrecht Gewürztraminer Alsace
Roche Calcaire 2014 $55 An elegant version, with
a minerally base, this is lithe, balanced and mouthwater-
ing, offering flavors of melon, apricot, verbena and can-
died pink grapefruit zest. Hard to stop sipping. Drink now
through 2020. 400 cases imported.—A.N.
87 Domaines Schlumberger Pinot Blanc Alsace
Les Princes Abbés 2014 $14 A balanced version,
light-bodied and fresh, offering notes of spring forest, green
pear, candied lemon zest and slivered almond. Drink now
through 2018. 2,000 cases imported.—A.N.
FRANCE
Burgundy / Côte de Beaune
95 Philippe Colin Chevalier-Montrachet 2014
$213 See Collectibles, page 119.
95 Maison Roche de Bellene Corton-Char-
lemagne 2013 $267 Mineral, wax and spice accents
enhance the core of lemon, apple and melon notes. Shows
fine tension and a bracing finish of stone and citrus, with
a terrific aftertaste. Best from 2017 through 2026. 200
cases made.—B.S.
126 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. 30, 2016
New Releases: France
94 Philippe Colin Chassagne-Montrachet Les
Chenevottes 2014 $110 An expansive, mouthfilling
version that’s both broad and focused. Vivid acidity drives
the peach, melon and lemon flavors, while spice and pas-
try notes add depth. Shows fine equilibrium and length,
with a mineral element lingering. Best from 2018 through
2027. 150 cases imported.—B.S.
94 Philippe Colin Chassagne-Montrachet Les
Vergers 2014 $110 Racy and rich, with a core of
peach, lemon, spice and pastry flavors. Beautifully bal-
anced, presenting a long aftertaste of toast. Best from 2017
through 2025. 100 cases imported.—B.S.
93 Vincent Girardin Corton-Charlemagne 2014
$168 A concentrated white, boasting peach, floral, spice
and lemon aromas and flavors. There is density here, but
also a sense of style and freshness thanks to the lively acid-
ity. Offers a long, savory aftertaste. Best from 2017 through
2026. 100 cases imported.—B.S.
93 Vincent Girardin Puligny-Montrachet Les
Combettes 2014 $127 A hint of licorice and green
olive flits around the core of peach, melon and vanilla.
Concentrated and well-proportioned, with a lingering af-
tertaste of lemon, mineral and spice. Best from 2017
through 2025. 100 cases imported.—B.S.
92 Philippe Colin Chassagne-Montrachet 2014
$60 Balance and texture are the hallmarks of this sleek
white. Peach, apple, floral and spice flavors mesh with the
creamy profile and lively acidity. Fine length. Drink now
through 2023. 250 cases imported.—B.S.
92 Vincent Girardin Meursault Les Charmes
2014 $105 The fluid, velvety texture is underscored
by vibrant acidity and intense flavors of apple, peach,
lemon and oak spice. Well-integrated, with a lasting ele-
ment of mineral and butterscotch on the long finish. Best
from 2017 through 2026. 80 cases imported.—B.S.
92 Vincent Girardin Meursault Les Narvaux
2014 $68 Almost creamy in texture, this lacy white
evokes peach, vanilla, lemon cake and butterscotch fla-
vors. Ends with bright, lemony notes and a tangy feel.
Drink now through 2024. 300 cases imported.—B.S.
92 Vincent Girardin Meursault Les Perrières
2014 $123 A sleek, lemon-infused style, with hints of
flowers and spices. The vivid structure keeps this racy and
defined, showing tension on the linear profile and long,
mineral-infused aftertaste. Best from 2017 through 2025.
50 cases imported.—B.S.
92 Maison Roche de Bellene Meursault Vieilles
Vignes 2013 $90 A reduced, smoky aroma gives way
to lemon bar, peach, acacia flower and seashore flavors in
this developing white. This is approachable now and
should continue evolving over the next 10 years. Drink
now through 2025. 370 cases made.—B.S.
91 Philippe Colin St.-Aubin Les Combes 2014
$63 Generous in texture, with peach, melon and but-
terscotch flavors, this white displays cut and harmony.
Should really hit its stride as the oak folds in. Fine length.
Drink now through 2023. 50 cases imported.—B.S.
91 Vincent Girardin Chassagne-Montrachet Le
Cailleret 2014 $101 Smells like lemon candy, but the
oak spice and apple notes emerge on the palate. Balanced,
with baking spice details echoing on the finish. Best from
2017 through 2024. 100 cases imported.—B.S.
90 Domaine de Bellene Savigny-lès-Beaune
White 2014 $59 Fresh, stony and intense, with a core
of apple, peach and citrus flavors. Harmonious and ap-
proachable, revealing a tangy, vibrant finish. Drink now
through 2019. 530 cases made.—B.S.
90 Philippe Colin St.-Aubin Le Charmois 2014
$63 Apple, peach and citrus notes are shaded by sweet
baking spices in this sleek, crunchy white. Finishes with
a mouthwatering tang. Drink now through 2020. 50 cases
imported.—B.S.
FRANCE
Burgundy / Other
92 Corinne & Jean-Pierre Grossot Chablis Mont
de Milieu 2014 $55 A hint of the seashore adds depth
to Granny Smith apple, green plum and honeydew melon
aromas and flavors. Ends with a fine, chalky tug and
cleansing acidity. Drink now through 2021. 20 cases
imported.—B.S.
90 Domaine Fourrey Chablis Côte de Lechet
2014 $32 Bracing acidity is offset by a fleshy profile
in this lemon- and green apple–flavored white, which is
balanced and long, with a flinty aftertaste. Drink now
through 2020. 500 cases made.—B.S.
90 Corinne & Jean-Pierre Grossot Chablis
Vaucoupin 2014 $40 A firm, intense and stony white,
suggesting lemon, floral and oyster notes. Balanced in a
steely way, with a lean, tactile finish. Begs for oysters.
Drink now through 2020. 100 cases imported.—B.S.
89 Bret Brothers Pouilly-Fuissé En Caremen-
trant 2014 $49 Beeswax, floral and apple flavors mix
in this vivid, linear style. The mouthwatering finish shows
citrus and spice notes. Drink now. 50 cases imported.—B.S.
89 Georges Duboeuf Pouilly-Fuissé Flower
Label 2014 $35 This bright white features floral,
citrus, peach and mineral flavors draped across an elegant
frame. Though subtle, this shows detail and a long after-
taste. Drink now through 2018. 5,000 cases made.—B.S.
89 Corinne & Jean-Pierre Grossot Chablis 2014
$26 This lean, classically proportioned Chablis offers
green apple, humus, stone and lemon flavors, leaving a
mouthwatering, chalky finish. Drink now through 2020.
300 cases imported.—B.S.
89 Corinne & Jean-Pierre Grossot Chablis Les
Fourneaux 2014 $40 Backed by tart acidity, this
white delivers peach, apple, lemon and stone flavors. Lean
in style and austere on the lingering finish. Drink now
through 2020. 150 cases imported.—B.S.
89 Maison Matisco Mâcon-Villages 2014 $20
Ripe and succulent, this white is focused, with a beam of
lemon and an accent of mineral shading the apple and
peach fruit. Balanced and long on the finish. Drink now.
600 cases imported.—B.S.
89 Domaine Vrignaud Chablis Les Champréaux
2014 $32 Vibrant and juicy, this white evokes green
apple, lemon, wild thyme and citrus peel hints. The chalky
ending is clean as a whistle. Drink now through 2019. 112
cases imported.—B.S.
FRANCE
Champagne
94 Bollinger Brut Rosé Champagne La Grande
Année 2005 $210 Wonderfully aromatic and finely
detailed, with a layered profile of dried apricot, raw almond,
honey, ground coffee, nutmeg and orange bergamot. Shows
power and focus, yet this is set in a sleek, finely knit frame.
The chalky minerality firms the long, smoky finish. Dis-
gorged July 2015. Drink now through 2026. 100 cases
imported.—A.N.
94 Salon Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne
Le Mesnil 2004 $520 See Collectibles, page 120.
93 Taittinger Brut Champagne Millésimé 2008
$95 An elegant Champagne, with vibrant acidity and
a finely detailed mousse, this offer flavors of crème de cas-
sis and poached pear, showing rich accents of smoky,
toasted brioche and lemon curd. Offers a lingering, spiced
finish. Drink now through 2026. 500 cases imported.—A.N.
92 Ayala Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne
2008 $95 Rich and ripe flavors of glazed apricot and
spiced plum are layered with pastry dough, graphite and
spice notes in this balanced version, with a lively bead.
 New Releases: France

Accessible, presenting juicy acidity through to the clean-
cut finish. Disgorged April 2015. Drink now through 2024.
80 cases imported.—A.N.
92 Michel Gonet Brut Blanc de Blancs Cham-
pagne Charles-Gilbert de Vindé Cuvée Authen-
tique 2005 $105 Smoky, with rich notes of orange
Creamsicle, dried cherry and gingerbread layered with
bright, tangy acidity. Firm and chalky on the finish, with
a lingering hint of fleur de sel. Best from 2017 through
2026. 1,600 cases made.—A.N.
92 Michel Gonet Brut Rosé Champagne Charles-
Gilbert de Vindé NV $54 A subtle, creamy rosé Cham-
pagne that slowly expands on the vibrant palate, with savory
hints of almond skin and fleur de sel accenting the white
cherry, candied kumquat and pickled ginger flavors. Offers
fine focus and a satiny texture, featuring a long, smoky fin-
ish. Drink now through 2021. 3,300 cases made.—A.N.
91 Michel Gonet Brut Blanc de Blancs
Champagne Charles-Gilbert de Vindé NV $57
Rich flavors of Honeycrisp apple, spun honey, slivered
almond and graphite are enlivened by mouthwatering
acidity in this fine, creamy Champagne. Long and spiced
on the citrusy finish. Drink now through 2021. 8,300 cases
made.—A.N.
91 Michel Gonet Brut Champagne Charles-
Gilbert de Vindé Réserve NV $49 Firm and miner-
ally, with aromatic spice and toasty smoke accents to the
notes of green plum, lemon curd and pastry dough. Finely
balanced and creamy in texture, presenting a lasting,
graphite-tinged finish. Drink now through 2020. 2,500
cases made.—A.N.
91 Bruno Paillard Extra Brut Champagne
Assemblage 2008 $85 A graceful version, with a
sense of finesse, this offers a spiced profile of ripe nectar-
ine, toast and fresh ginger underscored by Meyer lemon
and chalk notes, balanced by a fine, airy mousse. Disgorged
March 2015. Drink now through 2026. 1,400 cases
made.—A.N.
90 Besserat de Bellefon Brut Blanc de Noirs
Champagne NV $70 Black currant, plum and kum-
quat fruit flavors are set in a firm frame, underscored by
chalky minerality on the fresh, clean-cut finish. Drink
now through 2020. 3,300 cases made.—A.N.
90 Besserat de Bellefon Extra Brut Champagne
Cuvée des Moines NV $60 Lightly toasty and smoky,
with bright, mouthwatering acidity and a lively bead car-
rying the flavors of poached pear, cassis and pastry dough.
Balanced and fresh, offering a lemony finish. Disgorged
March 2012. Drink now through 2018. 1,000 cases
made.—A.N.
89 Catherine & Pierre Breton Chinon Beaumont
2014 $30 Supple in feel, featuring a smoky edge and
notes of sweet tobacco and fresh humus, while the core
of lightly steeped cherry and plum fruit fills in behind.
Offers a lingering whiff of game. The perfumy rusticity
will win this fans. Drink now through 2020. 95 cases
imported.—J.M.
89 Domaine de Pallus Chinon 2012 $40 Frankly
coated in dark toast, this has slightly mature-edged cherry
and plum fruit, melding slowly with notes of tobacco leaf
and black olive through the finish, ending with a zip of
savory. Drink now through 2019. 100 cases imported.—J.M.
89 Domaine de Pallus Chinon Messanges 2015
$17 Brisk-edged, with a strong savory note guiding the
core of blood orange, bitter plum and cherry pit flavors,
all backed by a chalk-tinged finish. Drink now through
2018. 1,000 cases imported.—J.M.
FRANCE
Loire / Sancerre
90 Joseph Mellot Sancerre L’Original 2014 $70
Very fresh, with a mouthwatering chalky spine cutting
through the lemon curd, white peach and savory notes.
Reveals a gooseberry twinge at the very end. Drink now
through 2017. 400 cases made.—J.M.
89 Daniel Chotard Sancerre 2014 $27 Fresh
and open, with lots of chive flower, thyme and savory
notes bouncing along over a flinty spine. Drink now
through 2017. 2,310 cases imported.—J.M.
89 Joseph Mellot Sancerre La Chatellenie 2015
$25 Offers a crunchy feel, with gooseberry, jicama and
flint notes working well together and extending through
the mouthwatering finish. Drink now through 2018. 8,500
cases made.—J.M.
89 Roger & Christophe Moreux Sancerre Les
Bouffants 2014 $27 Shows a touch of maturity, with
a lemon curd and straw profile, accented by gooseberry
and savory notes. Drink now through 2017. 1,250 cases
made.—J.M.
89 Roger Neveu & Fils Sancerre Clos des
Bouffants 2014 $24 A tangy, brisk style, with lemon
zest and pith accents racing along, backed by thyme and
gooseberry notes. Shows lots of bony cut through the fin-
ish. Drink now through 2017. 1,669 cases imported.—J.M.
89 Roland Tissier & Fils Sancerre 2015 $22
A bony style, with lots of chive and flint notes leading
the way, backed by tangy lime pith and thyme accents
through the finish. Drink now through 2018. 1,000 cases
made.—J.M.
FRANCE
Loire / Vouvray
97 Domaine Huët Vouvray Moelleux Clos du
Bourg Première Trie 2015 $70 See Collectibles,
page 119.
96 Domaine Huët Vouvray Moelleux Le Haut-
Lieu Première Trie 2015 $65 See Collectibles, page
119.
95 Domaine Huët Vouvray Moelleux Le Haut-
Lieu 2015 $45 Offers a big, broad feel, with layers of
glazed pear, apple and peach falling over each other,
backed by fresh ginger, honeysuckle and quince notes.
Everything pulls together through the finish, with green
tea accents and racy minerality providing the foil. Drink
now through 2035. 300 cases imported.—J.M.

FRANCE
Loire / Chinon
90 Bernard Baudry Chinon La Croix Boissée
2012 $44 This has hit its stride, with a solid core of
steeped plum and black cherry fruit melded with smolder-
ing charcoal, sweet tapenade and singed bay leaf notes.
The long, fleshy finish reveals an echo of rosemary. Drink
now through 2020. 30 cases imported.—J.M.
90 Domaine Grosbois Chinon Gabare 2014 $30
A solid, slightly chunky version, with dark currant and Family Wine Estate for 5 generations.
bitter cherry fruit pushed by singed bay, dark olive and
bittersweet cocoa notes. A cocoa edge holds sway on the
dark finish, but there’s good underlying energy here. Needs
some time in the cellar. Best from 2018 through 2022. 98
cases imported.—J.M.
90 La Varenne Chinon Tradition 2014 $22 Very
lively, with savory, olive and bay notes out front, followed
quickly by a solid core of crushed black cherry and black
currant fruit. The brambly feel through the finish mellows
quickly, leaving a lingering smoke accent. Drink now
Visit our Website at www.zeni.it
through 2022. 200 cases imported.—J.M.

SEPT. 30, 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 127


TH E ULTIMATE FALL WINE & FOOD WEEKEN D
CELEBRATING 25 YEARS
OCTOBER 7-10, COLUMBUS DAY WEEKEND
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(WINE SPECTATOR DISCOUNT OF $15 GENERAL ADMISSION.
USE PROMO CODE WSD15)
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DINNER, WINEMAKER DINNERS, SATURDAY MORNING
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For information & tickets visit
celebrationofharvest.com or call 805-688-0881
128 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. 30, 2016
New Releases: France
95 Domaine Huët Vouvray Moelleux Le Mont
Première Trie 2015 $70 Ripe and energetic, with
unctuous quince, melon, fig and pear fruit flavors that
power along, carried by bright green tea, honeysuckle and
cardamom notes. The long finish is lush and enticing,
showing latent, rippling minerality. A beauty. Drink now
through 2035. 400 cases imported.—J.M.
94 Domaine Huët Vouvray Demi-Sec Clos du
Bourg 2015 $45 Quite ripe, with tropical mango and
papaya notes mixed with peach, apple and quince flavors.
Pretty ginger and heather notes fill in the background,
while the finish shows a well-embedded mineral edge,
imparting tension to match the opulence. Best from 2017
through 2030. 200 cases imported.—J.M.
94 Domaine Huët Vouvray Demi-Sec Le Haut-
Lieu 2015 $42 Features a wide range of apple, green
melon, ginger and green plum notes gliding throughout,
with the off-dry edge imparting a flattering feel. Latent
minerality lengthens the finish. Best from 2017 through
2030. 300 cases imported.—J.M.
94 Domaine Huët Vouvray Moelleux Le Mont
2015 $50 Offers ginger- and hibiscus-infused creamed
yellow apple, quince and pear notes, gilded with a whiff of
piecrust. All the elements meld through the long, rippling
finish. Drink now through 2035. 300 cases imported.—J.M.
93 Domaine Huët Vouvray Demi-Sec Le Mont
2015 $45 Offers a flattering feel, with ginger cream
and singed almond notes gliding along while the core of
warm apple, piecrust and dried persimmon waits in re-
serve. Fresh acidity ripples underneath, though this main-
tains a broad, rich feel throughout. Drink now through
2030. 50 cases imported.—J.M.
93 Domaine Huët Vouvray Sec Le Haut-Lieu
2015 $32 Solidly ripe, with a full-bodied core of gin-
ger, pear and persimmon notes allied to a racy spine that
lengthens the finish, letting ginger, quince and green al-
mond accents play out. This should age well in the cellar.
Best from 2017 through 2027. 500 cases imported.—J.M.
93 Domaine Huët Vouvray Sec Le Mont 2015
$38 A light echo of baked apple leads off, followed by
quince, powdered ginger and verbena notes at the core.
The long, minerally finish features rippling acidity. Still
tight, so let this unwind in the cellar. Best from 2017
through 2027. 200 cases imported.—J.M.
89 Champalou Vouvray Les Fondraux 2014 $23
Fresh, with yellow apple, anise and quince flavors gliding
along, with finely beaded acidity and a plump yet fresh
finish. Drink now through 2017. 485 cases imported.—J.M.
89 Cave des Producteurs de Vouvray Vouvray
Demi-Sec Les Fosses d’Hareng 2014 $18 A friendly,
off-dry style, with apple, ginger and anise notes, backed by
a quince echo. Reveals a flicker of warm piecrust through-
out. Drink now through 2018. 1,250 cases made.—J.M.
87 Sauvion & Fils Vouvray 2015 $12 A breezy
style, with friendly green almond and lime notes backed by
a light fennel echo. Drink now. 7,791 cases imported.—J.M.
FRANCE
Loire / Other
91 Domaine des Baumard Savennières Trie
Spéciale 2014 $65 Alluring salted butter, singed
almond and quince notes meld together, with a creamy-
edged texture offset by a buried quinine spine. Hints of
creamed melon and smoke pervade the finish. Drink now
through 2024. 10 cases imported.—J.M.
91 Régis Minet Pouilly-Fumé Vieilles Vignes
2014 $24 See Smart Buys, page 121.
90 Domaine des Baumard Savennières 2014
$26 Salted butter, creamed white peach and quince
flavors glide through, with a rounded feel to the finish. A
mineral note lingers. Drink now through 2019. 235 cases
imported.—J.M.
90 Domaine des Baumard Vin de France Le
Petit Paon NV $28/500ml An alluring sweet version,
with creamed quince, crystalized ginger and fresh green
melon flavors all stitched together, backed by a light anise
echo through the sleek finish. Chenin Blanc. Drink now
through 2018. 10 cases imported.—J.M.
90 Catherine & Pierre Breton Bourgueil Franc
de Pied 2014 $34 Dark plum and bitter cherry notes
give this a fleshy feel, while hints of singed bay and dark
olive hang in the background. The chalky spine gives the
finish energy but stays nicely embedded. Drink now
through 2020. 60 cases imported.—J.M.
90 Château d’Epiré Savennières 2014 $21 Well-
focused, with a salted butter and talc edge harnessing the
core of creamed yellow apple, mirabelle plum and quince
flavors. Shows a lingering whiff of bitter almond at the very
end. Drink now through 2020. 450 cases imported.—J.M.
90 Domaine Trotereau Quincy Vieilles Vignes
2014 $25 Shows a juicy edge, with grapefruit and
lemon peel accents amid a core of tasty white peach,
thyme and gooseberry notes. Drink now through 2017.
150 cases imported.—J.M.
89 Jean-Marie Berthier Pouilly-Fumé 2015 $30
Racy and chiseled, with talc, white peach and jicama notes
backed by a light whiff of smoke. Reveals echoes of chive
and flint. Drink now. 5,000 cases made.—J.M.
89 Jean-Marie Berthier Sauvignon Blanc
Coteaux du Giennois Domaine de Montbenoit
2015 $18 This is understated, but very pure and sneak-
ily long, as white peach, jicama and lemon curd notes
glide along, carried by a mineral echo through the finish.
Drink now. 7,000 cases made.—J.M.
89 Catherine & Pierre Breton Bourgueil Les
Galichets 2014 $29 Fresh and focused, with mouth-
watering, herb-edged cut from the start driving the core
of damson plum and bitter cherry fruit along, picking up
light olive and rosemary notes along the way. Drink now
through 2020. 60 cases imported.—J.M.
89 Cave Cooperative du Vendômois Coteaux
du Vendômois Lieu-dit Cocagne 2015 $14 A fresh,
piercing style, with chive and flint details running from
start to finish, picking up a sel gris edge along the way.
Lacks range, but remains very long and pure. Drink now
through 2017. 520 cases made.—J.M.
89 Château d’Epiré Savennières Cuvée Spéciale
2013 $30 A tangy salted streak adds energy to the core
of chamomile, honeysuckle and yellow apple notes, hold-
ing sway through the mouthwatering finish. A solid effort
for the vintage. Drink now through 2020. 405 cases
imported.—J.M.
89 Domaine Trotereau Quincy 2014 $20
Vibrant lemon and grapefruit peel notes race forth, backed
by floral and thyme notes. Offers a long, zippy finish. Drink
now. 1,179 cases imported.—J.M.
FRANCE
Rhône / Châteauneuf-du-Pape
97 Rotem & Mounir Saouma Châteauneuf-du-
Pape Arioso 2012 $233 This is cut from different
cloth, with beguiling loganberry, açai berry and raspberry
fruit seamlessly melded with dried star anise, singed cin-
namon and black tea notes, all carried by substantial yet
remarkably silky tannins. A light echo of iron pervades
the finish, adding extra cut to the copious fruit and spice
elements. Hard to resist now but should cruise in the cel-
lar. Drink now through 2032. 12 cases imported.—J.M.
94 Rotem & Mounir Saouma Châteauneuf-du-
Pape Omnia 2013 $111 Alluring, with cinnamon,
black tea and violet aromas leading the way for a rich, yet
silky and refined, core of raspberry, plum and red currant
coulis flavors. The long finish is gilded with shiso leaf and
iron notes, staying refined all the way. Beguiling, but still
 New Releases: France
tightly coiled, so cellar for maximum effect. Best from
2018 through 2028. 25 cases imported.—J.M.
93 Paul Autard Châteauneuf-du-Pape Juline
2013 $100 Ambitious, with a hefty dose of dark cocoa
and anise-infused toast over the core of macerated plum,
boysenberry and dark cherry fruit. Has ample depth, re-
vealing a polished feel on the finish, where violet and
mineral hints lurk. Let this unwind in the cellar. Best from
2018 through 2025. 20 cases imported.—J.M.
92 Paul Autard Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée
La Côte Ronde 2013 $70 Features good, dark, fleshy
fruit for the vintage, with layers of boysenberry, fig and
raspberry puree melding with melted licorice and warm
fruitcake flavors through the finish. Shows ample guts and
length, with the definition to carry it off. Best from 2018
through 2024. 140 cases imported.—J.M.
92 Domaine de la Mordorée Châteauneuf-du-
Pape La Belle Voyageuse 2014 $50 Ripe and
mouthfilling in feel, with a core of juicy raspberry pâte de
fruit and plum cake flavors kept lively by anise and violet
notes. Delivers energetic, brambly structure through the
finish. Best from 2017 through 2024. 583 cases
made.—J.M.
91 Château Mont-Redon  Drink now through 2027. 1,600 cases made.—J.M.
Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2013
$48 A ripe, strapping style, with
bold black licorice and fruitcake
notes leading the way, followed by
juicy raspberry and plum paste fla-
vors. Everything knits through the
graphite-edged finish. Should age
nicely. Drink now through 2025.
PIERRE FABRE
2,500 cases made.—J.M. Winemaker
90 Paul Autard Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2013 $45
Solid, with a frankly toasty frame giving this a fruitcake
and ganache profile, accented by fleshy cherry and plum
paste notes. Shows a lingering anise detail on the juicy,
energetic finish. Best from 2017 through 2022. 500 cases
imported.—J.M.
90 La Sousto Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2013 $45
Dense, with layers of raspberry, plum and blackberry
preserves stretching out over a charcoal-edged structure,
picking up notes of lavender and tobacco along the way.
Well-focused finish. Drink now through 2020. 541 cases
made.—J.M.
FRANCE
Rhône / Côte-Rôtie
94 Jean-Michel Gerin Côte-Rôtie La Landonne
2012 $391 Fresh and pure, with a supple feel to the
raspberry, plum and black cherry coulis flavors, melding
easily with light tobacco, bay leaf and singed balsamic notes.
A light iron echo holds through the finish, which builds
steadily with air in the glass, showing ample length and
depth. Drink now through 2030. 40 cases imported.—J.M.
94 R. Rostaing Côte-Rôtie Côte Blonde 2013
$190 See Collectibles, page 119.
94 R. Rostaing Côte-Rôtie Côte Brune 2013
$190 See Collectibles, page 120.
94 R. Rostaing Côte-Rôtie La Landonne 2013
$175 See Collectibles, page 120.
94 St.-Cosme Côte-Rôtie 2014 $75 A firm, taut,
minerally style, with lots of iron-edged grip striding from
start to finish, while red currant and damson plum fruit
push out from the core. White pepper and singed juniper
details fill in the background. This will need some time
to stretch out fully. Best from 2019 through 2030. 750
cases made.—J.M.
93 Gilles Barge Côte-Rôtie Coeur de Combard
OUR FAMILY SECRET IS
2013 $65 Shows lovely tension, with mouthwatering
minerality and perfumy tea and singed sandalwood notes THE NAME ON THE BOTTLE
leading to red currant and damson plum fruit. The long,
white pepper–infused finish has serious cut and drive. Best 5000
from 2017 through 2027. 700 cases made.—J.M.
Champagne Producers
93 Gilles Barge Côte-Rôtie Côte Brune 2013
$75 This sports a solid core of dark currant, plum and
black cherry fruit, stitched with slightly leathery tannins ONLY
and dried bay leaf notes, giving way to dark tapenade and
alder details through the finish. Well-built. Best from 2018
through 2028. 500 cases made.—J.M.
1
Grand Marque that is owned and run by the
93 Gilles Barge Côte-Rôtie Côte Brune 2012 namesake family
$75 Focused, with a supple beam of cassis and plum
reduction notes lined with hints of anise, violet and in-
cense. The finish picks up light bay and juniper accents,
but stays fleshy and inviting in feel. Solid and approach-
able now. Drink now through 2022. 500 cases made.—J.M.
93 Gilles Barge Côte-Rôtie Cuvée du Plessy
2012 $55 This has a slightly rounded edge, with gentle
singed sandalwood and incense notes lending a caressing
feel to the core of lightly steeped bitter cherry and plum
fruit. Juniper, bay and white pepper accents give the fin-
ish range, echoing effortlessly thanks to fresh acidity.
92 Gilles Barge Côte-Rôtie Cuvée du Plessy
2013 $55 The dark fruit shows a hint of lushness at
the core, though the edges are taut and racy. Iron and
singed alder hints guide the dark plum and blackberry
fruit. Shows a lovely backdrop of bay and sanguine notes.
Needs a touch of cellaring to open up fully. Best from 2018
through 2025. 1,600 cases made.—J.M.
92 Louis & Cherry Barruol Côte-Rôtie La
Viallière 2014 $75 This peppery red shows sage and
bay leaf notes streaking through the bitter plum and
crushed cherry fruit. The tight-grained finish has judicious
toast, showing a hint of cocoa, but stays pure overall as an
iron accent lingers. Best from 2017 through 2024. 37 cases
imported.—J.M.
92 Louis & Cherry Barruol Côte-Rôtie Nève
2014 $75 Has a bright peppery note up front, followed
by dried sage and savory accents that steadily give way to
bitter cherry and damson plum fruit flavors. Picks up sleek
sanguine and iron details through the tangy, racy finish.
The long echo of dark fruit bodes well for the cellar. Best
from 2018 through 2028. 37 cases imported.—J.M.
92 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie Brune et Blonde 2012
$78 This offers a distinctive set of alder and olive aro-
mas before giving way to a slightly taut core of bitter
cherry, plum and red currant fruit. Lovely bay and leather
accents hang on the background, leading to a long, grippy
finish that exudes a slightly perfumy sandalwood note.
Best from 2017 through 2027. 500 cases imported.—J.M.
92 Julien Pilon Côte-Rôtie La Porchette 2013
$56 Alluring, with a gorgeous medley of black tea, singed
mesquite and warm olive aromas leading the way, backed
by dark cherry and plum fruit that stretches out through
the long finish. Shows a strong iron underpinning through-
out. Best from 2018 through 2028. 258 cases made.—J.M.
92 R. Rostaing Côte-Rôtie Ampodium 2013 $85
A lively, herb-accented style, with rosemary, savory and
bay leading the way, followed by a lightly mulled core of
raspberry and blackberry fruit. The finish lets light olive
and white pepper notes chime in for added range. Leans
toward the old-school side of the style spectrum. Best from
2017 through 2027. 90 cases imported.—J.M.
92 Georges Vernay Côte-Rôtie Blonde du
Seigneur 2013 $95 A fresh, sleek style, with mouth-
watering olive, rosemary and white pepper notes pulling
the core of cherry along. Has the slightly crisp angle of
the vintage, but shows depth and energy that should help
this fill out with modest cellaring. Best from 2017 through
2022. 1,250 cases made.—J.M. ©2016 Kobrand Corporation, Purchase, NY www.kobrandwineandspirits.com
SEPT. 30, 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 129

FRANCE
Rhône / Gigondas
95 Château de St.-Cosme Gigondas Le Poste
2014 $109 This has a succulent edge despite the vin-
tage profile, with lovely raspberry, plum and boysenberry
coulis flavors stretching out, picking up dried star anise,
lightly singed alder and perfumy black tea notes. The long,
fine-grained structure and lovely minerality linger through
the finish. Shows remarkable refinement for the vintage.
Drink now through 2024. 125 cases made.—J.M.
94 Château de St.-Cosme Gigondas Le Claux
2014 $109 Intense, with lots of grip along the edges,
as rosemary, tobacco and charcoal notes coil around the
core of steeped plum, blackberry and red currant fruit.
The long finish has a racy, minerally underpinning despite
the heft. Shows terrific precision to the rusticity here. Best
from 2018 through 2024. 300 cases made.—J.M.
93 Château de St.-Cosme Gigondas Hominis
Fides 2014 $109 Juicy and well-built, with dark sage,
savory and tobacco notes weaving around the core of
blackberry and black currant fruit, picking up charcoal
and roasted alder accents through the finish. The fruit
lends this a slightly forward edge, but there’s no rush here.
Best from 2017 through 2024. 200 cases made.—J.M.
92 Château de St.-Cosme Gigondas 2014 $43
Sports solid, charcoal-edged grip from the get-go, with
roasted alder and savory notes forming a robust frame
around the chewy-edged currant, plum and bitter cherry
paste flavors. The long, dark, smoldering finish lets the
woodsy and herb accents stride through. Shows the cool-
weather profile of the vintage. Best from 2018 through
2024. 3,700 cases made.—J.M.
90 E. Guigal Gigondas 2012 $37 This has a
slightly firm edge of roasted alder and juniper, melded
nicely into the core of dried currant, cherry and plum fruit.
The finish picks up bay and warm paving stone notes.
Shows good old-school character, with the spine to age a
bit longer. Drink now through 2022. 2,000 cases
imported.—J.M.
89 Domaine Raspail-Ay Gigondas 2013 $40
A light coating of singed mesquite drapes over a medium-
weight core of plum and black currant fruit. A lightly firm
alder edge holds the finish. Drink now through 2020.
3,500 cases made.—J.M.
FRANCE
Rhône / Other Red
92 Domaine Desmeure Hermitage Domaine des
Remizières Cuvée Emilie 2014 $85 Very inviting,
with aromas and flavors of warm raspberry and boysen-
berry pâte de fruit leading the way, backed by blueberry
reduction, fruitcake and dark licorice notes. This has solid
structure, but it’s polished and integrated, revealing a very
flattering feel through the spice-infused finish. Best from
2017 through 2024. 660 cases made.—J.M.
90 Jean Barnier Vacqueyras Domaine Fontaine
du Clos Castillon 2014 $45 This has solid flesh for
the vintage, with dark plum and boysenberry notes car-
ried by brambly grip, finishing with bittersweet cocoa and
dark licorice accents. Drink now through 2018. 600 cases
made.—J.M.
90 Domaine Desmeure Crozes-Hermitage
Domaine des Remizières Cuvée Christophe 2014
$35 Inviting, with warm ganache and steeped plum and
blackberry aromas and flavors, backed by espresso and
warm fruitcake notes on the finish. A touch amped-up in
style but will have fans for sure. Drink now through 2020.
1,600 cases made.—J.M.
90 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle
2013 $275 Features a slightly taut frame, with singed
cedar and balsamic notes clipping the wings of the red
currant, cherry paste and plum fruit flavors. Tar and sage
130 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. 30, 2016
New Releases: France
details line the finish. There’s some depth here and good
ripeness for the vintage, but not the volume or range of
the best wines from this appellation. Drink now through
2023. 200 cases imported.—J.M.
90 Maison Lombard Crozes-Hermitage 2013
$35 This sports a ripe core of boysenberry and black-
berry confiture, with good supporting energy coming from
a graphite spine and enticing anise and singed apple wood
notes. Drink now through 2019. 750 cases made.—J.M.
89 Domaine Desmeure Crozes-Hermitage
Domaine des Remizières Cuvée Particulière 2014
$26 Ripe cassis and raspberry puree notes form the core
here, while ample structure lends focus. Violet and graph-
ite details line the finish, with the fruit echoing pleasantly.
Solid. Drink now through 2018. 2,000 cases made.—J.M.
89 Domaine Lombard Vin de Pays de la Drôme
La Renommée 2014 $18 A bright, floral-edged style,
with flecks of white pepper enhancing the core of damson
plum and cherry fruit, giving way to a flash of peach be-
fore an iron streak checks in on the finish. Drink now.
4,500 cases made.—J.M.
89 Cave de Rasteau Rasteau Ortas Dame
Victoria 2014 $20 This red is solidly ripe, with dark
plum, currant and blackberry preserve notes inlaid with
a well-buried spine of charcoal and graphite. The fleshy
finish has a pleasant juniper accent. Drink now through
2018. 20,000 cases made.—J.M.
89 Domaine de Verquière Vacqueyras 2014 $30
Solid, with a bitter plum paste frame around the notes of
currant and cherry preserves, picking up a lightly singed
juniper thread through the finish. Drink now through
2019. 250 cases made.—J.M.
88 Vignerons de Beaumes-de-Venise Ventoux
The Devil’s Stone 2015 $12 Violet, lavender and
plum pit notes move along, carrying through a cherry-filled
finish. A breezy, unadorned style. Syrah, Grenache, Cari-
gnane and Cinsault. Drink now. 10,000 cases made.—J.M.
87 Château de Campuget Syrah Costières de
Nîmes 1753 2013 $18 Offers a peppery aroma, with
cherry and bitter plum fruit filling in. Shows a flash of
iron through the finish, accompanied by light but persis-
tent silky tannins. Drink now. 700 cases imported.—J.M.
87 Château Gigognan Côtes du Rhône Vignes
du Prieuré 2015 $17 Direct, with cherry paste and
red licorice notes lined with a light floral edge. Not big, but
fresh and persistent. Drink now. 4,150 cases made.—J.M.
87 Cave de Rasteau Rasteau Ortas Tradition
2014 $18 A bright, floral style, with a violet note lead-
ing the way for cherry and red currant fruit, backed by
lightly singed sandalwood and blood orange hints on the
finish. Drink now through 2017. 20,000 cases made.—J.M.
FRANCE
Rhône / Rosé
91 Domaine de la Mordorée Tavel La Dame
Rousse 2015 $26 Juicy and ripe, with range to the
blood orange, cherry and strawberry flavors, along with
lively savory and rooibos tea notes through the finish.
Good zip. Drink now. 3,800 cases made.—J.M.
90 Henri de Lanzac Tavel Château de Ségriès
2015 $22 This delivers a big, juicy core of cherry and
ripe strawberry flavors, backed by a stony spine through
the finish. Packs in the fruit but stays fresh and lively.
Drink now. 3,000 cases made.—J.M.
90 Domaine de la Mordorée Tavel La Dame
Rousse Les Vestides 2015 $24 Very solid, with light
savory and tobacco notes providing the frame, backed by
a core of intense cherry, pomegranate and peach fruit fla-
vors. Shows stony zip through the long finish. Drink now.
1,800 cases made.—J.M.
89 Château d’Aquéria Tavel 2015 $20 This
ripe, full-bodied rosé features a tobacco frame melding
with lightly mulled strawberry and cherry fruit. Light zip
of blood orange notes stitch up the finish. Drink now.
19,000 cases made.—J.M.
87 Domaine de Triennes Méditerranée Rosé
2015 $19 Juicy, light-bodied and direct, with a core of
white cherry and peach flavors and an orange zest echo
on the finish. Drink now. 4,000 cases imported.—J.M.
FRANCE
Rhône / White
96 Rotem & Mounir Saouma Châteauneuf-du-
Pape White Magis 2013 $132 Gorgeous, with a rich
honeyed feel to the pear, star fruit, yellow apple and
Cavaillon melon notes, all inlaid with racy anise, jasmine
and citrus oil notes. The long finish picks up twinges of
chamomile and quinine for added range and length, re-
taining a flattering feel throughout. A stunner. Drink now
through 2026. 7 cases imported.—J.M.
95 St.-Cosme Condrieu 2014 $78 Gorgeous,
with papaya, white peach, mango, persimmon and Cavail-
lon melon notes seamlessly stitched together, lined with
light honeysuckle and jasmine accents and backed by a
twinge of bitter citrus oil and well-buried minerality. A
exemplary display of large-scale fruit and precision. Drink
now through 2019. 500 cases made.—J.M.
94 Julien Pilon Condrieu Lône 2014 $54
Intense, with layered apricot, white peach, plantain,
Cavaillon melon and nectarine flavors that drive through
the finish, picking up a citrus oil note for spine. Packed
with fruit but not heady. Captivating. Drink now through
2018. 266 cases made.—J.M.
93 Domaine Faury Condrieu 2014 $59 Plump
and full-bodied, with luscious apricot, green fig, melon
and anise notes gliding through, gilded with a heather
hint on the lush finish. Has just enough cut for balance.
Drink now through 2018. 70 cases imported.—J.M.
93 E. Guigal Hermitage White 2012 $75 Rich,
almost unctuous in feel, with melon, apricot and glazed
peach flavors layered with notes of orange sabayon and
singed hazelnut. Cuts a long and broad swath through the
finish, showing lingering paraffin and heather details. A
gorgeously hedonistic wine. Drink now through 2027. 20
cases imported.—J.M.
93 Julien Pilon Condrieu Vernon 2014 $77 An
intense, rich and exotic style, with lots of fig, pear, apri-
cot and singed almond notes, backed by bitter orange and
persimmon accents. Lightly gilded with toast on the fin-
ish. Drink now through 2017. 75 cases made.—J.M.
91 Jean-Michel Gerin Viog-
nier Collines Rhodaniennes
La Champine 2014 $20 Very
lively, with delightful green fig, mi-
rabelle plum, fennel and white
peach notes seamlessly woven to-
gether and carrying through a ripe
and unctuous, yet minerally, finish.
Drink now through 2017. 350 cases JEAN-MICHEL GERIN
imported.—J.M. Owner & Winemaker
91 Château Jas de Bressy Châteauneuf-du-
Pape White 2014 $42 Rounded and ripe, this offers
succulent melon, pear and yellow apple fruit flavors meld-
ing together, backed by heather and salted butter notes.
Drink now through 2017. 133 cases made.—J.M.
89 Château Juvenal Ventoux White Les Ribes
du Vallat 2015 $25 Yellow apple, fennel and honey-
suckle notes stream through, with a light kiss of butter at
the very end. Clairette and Viognier. Drink now. 1,000
cases made.—J.M.
 New Releases: France / Greece / Israel
FRANCE
Other
92 Daniel Dugois Savagnin Arbois Sous Voile
2012 $49 Very distinctive, with singed Brazil nut aro-
mas imparting a Sherry-like profile before revealing richer
apple, melon and pear nuances midpalate. The long fin-
ish picks up paraffin, brioche, salted butter and dried
lemon rind notes, with everything flowing harmoniously
over a dry, nervy underpinning. From Jura. Drink now
through 2022. 330 cases made.—J.M.
92 Château de Haute-Serre Cahors Cuvée
Prestige 2011 $45 A generous, full-bodied red, with
cherry compote, spiced plum and mocha flavors outlined
by muscular, integrated tannins. Shows plenty of red lico-
rice notes, fueled by tangy acidity that eases into the long,
dried floral finish. Drink now through 2021. 1,000 cases
made.—G.S.
91 Clos Troteligotte Malbec Cahors K 2012 $34
Hints of violet and forest floor play into the black currant
and dried blackberry flavors in this concentrated but sup-
ple red. Bitter chocolate, smoke and spice elements linger
through the lengthy, well-structured finish. Drink now
through 2019. 448 cases made.—G.S.
91 Daniel Dugois Arbois Auréoline 2014 $45
Alluring, with lovely yellow apple, pear and macadamia
nut flavors and a creamy texture. The long finish ripples
with a light walnut echo and whiff of paraffin. Savagnin.
From Jura. Drink now through 2020. 165 cases made.—J.M.
91 Daniel Dugois Arbois Vin Jaune 2009
$39/620ml Distinctive, with dry-edged walnut and
Brazil nut notes giving this tension, while the core lets
persimmon, orange peel and quince details flow through,
imparting a sense of contrasting opulence. Flirts with
sweetness, but stays dry, showing lovely cut through the
finish. From Jura. Drink now through 2022. 240 cases
made.—J.M.
90 Daniel Dugois Chardonnay Arbois Terre de
Marne 2014 $39 This has the variety’s typically yel-
low apple and pear flavors, but with distinctive salted but-
ter, quinine and wet straw notes adding range and
character through the finish. From Jura. Drink now
through 2018. 650 cases made.—J.M.
90 Château de Gaudou Malbec Cahors Renais-
sance Cuvée Boisée 2013 $22 Notes of raspberry
torte and ripe, black cherry are kept elegant and fresh by
lively acidity in this full-bodied red. Accents of smoke
and mineral show on the tangy, floral finish. Drink now
through 2019. 1,667 cases made.—G.S.
90 Jolie-Pitt & Perrin Côtes de Provence Rosé
Miraval 2015 $26 Alluring, with peach and mango
aromas that give way to a stony, racy-edged core of white
cherry and strawberry flavors. Offers a chiseled finish.
Drink now. 65,000 cases made.—J.M.
90 Jean Perrier & Fils Savoie Apremont Cuvée
Gastronomie 2015 $16 See Smart Buys, page 122.
87 Hecht & Bannier Languedoc Rosé 2015 $13
A creamy rosé showing wild strawberry and white cherry
flavors, enlivened by spice and herbal notes. Mineral
accents follow through on the finish. Drink now. 3,000
cases imported.—G.S.
87 Château Notre-Dame du Quatourze  made.—K.M.
Languedoc Rosé 2015 $16 This rosé is fresh and in-
viting, showing white cherry, pureed peach and floral notes,
with a touch of mineral. Offers a crisp, zesty finish accented
by hints of spice. Drink now. 1,500 cases made.—G.S.
87 Ott Selection Côtes de Provence Rosé By.Ott
2015 $25 Fresh, with a light stony frame around the
white cherry and tea notes. Drink now. 10,000 cases
imported.—J.M.
86 Domaine Le Pive Sable de Camargue Rosé
Gris 2015 $16 Peach and white raspberry notes are
highlighted by a juicy acidity and fleur de sel accents in
this crisp rosé, with an herb-tinged finish. From Languedoc.
Drink now. 41,700 cases made.—G.S.
GREECE
90 D. Kourtakis Assyrtiko Santorini Greek Wine
Cellars 2014 $20 A creamy white, with notes of dried
coconut to the ripe apple, baked pear and lemon curd fla-
vors. The richly spiced finish features accents of dried
mint and sage. Drink now through 2020. 10,000 cases
made.—K.M.
89 D. Kourtakis Muscat Samos Kourtaki NV $14
Peach and glazed apricot notes emerge in this sweet, juicy
white. Honey and spice details show on the creamy fin-
ish, with some ripe melon accents. Drink now. 300,000
cases made.—K.M.
87 Domaine Hatzimichalis Assyrtiko Atalanti
Valley 2015 $12 Juicy, filled with green apple and
white currant flavors accented by fresh minerality. Herbal
notes show on the finish. Drink now. 700 cases made.—K.M.
87 Idaia Thrapsathiri Crete Ocean 2015 $18
Apple and pear flavors blend easily and rest on a firm
structure in this medium-bodied white. Lemongrass and
lime notes show on the fresh finish. Drink now. 800 cases
made.—K.M.
87 Idaia Vidianó Crete 2015 $17 A crisp and
savory white, with bracing acidity to the green apple and
lime flavors. Green peach and anise notes emerge on the
finish, revealing some floral touches. Try as an aperitif.
Drink now. 800 cases made.—K.M.
87 Domaine Costa Lazaridi Drama Amethystos
White 2015 $18 Firm, with juicy, crisp flavors of Gala
apple, grapefruit and peach, featuring plenty of ripe citrus
notes. The zesty finish features hints of white pepper. Sau-
vignon Blanc and Assyrtiko. Drink now. 50,000 cases
made.—K.M.
87 Nasiakos Mantinia 2015 $19 Notes of tarra-
gon cream enliven the green peach and lemon-lime
flavors. The spicy finish is crisp and refreshing. Moscho-
filero. Drink now. 825 cases made.—K.M.
86 Domaine Costa Lazaridi Malagouzia-
Moscato-Sauvignon Blanc Drama Oenodea 2015
$14 A medium-bodied white, with crunchy flavors of
grapefruit and white currant. Citrusy midpalate, leading
to a finish that offers spice and herbal accents. Drink now.
50,000 cases made.—K.M.
ISRAEL
90 Agur Special Reserve Judean Hills 2012 $40
A sinewy red that offers concentrated flavors of dried berry
and cherry along with firm minerality. Dried beef and for-
est floor notes show on the finish, with accents of savory
herbs. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc,
Syrah and Petit Verdot. Kosher. Drink now through 2019.
500 cases made.—K.M.
90 Recanati Special Reserve Galilee 2013 $60
Juicy and rich, with lots of red plum and raspberry flavors
that feature fresh acidity. Licorice notes show midpalate,
presenting a finish that has accents of milk chocolate
and paprika. Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Marselan and
Carignan. Kosher. Drink now through 2019. 1,900 cases
89 Agur Layam Judean Hills 2013 $37 Shows
notes of forest floor to the firm, sinewy flavors of roasted
plum, dried berry and currant. Meaty accents emerge mid-
palate, leading to a minerally finish filled with cedary de-
tails. Syrah and Mourvèdre. Kosher. Drink now through
2019. 500 cases made.—K.M.
89 Pelter Chardonnay Galilee Unwooded 2014
$25 This has good cut to the apple and pear flavors,
supported by fresh acidity. Spice and custard notes emerge
on the firm finish, revealing hints of citrus zest and dried
mint. Drink now through 2019. 500 cases made.—K.M.
SEPT. 30, 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 131

89 Recanati Reserve Upper Galilee 2014 $40
A plush, spicy red, with dark plum and cherry tart flavors
supported by medium-grained tannins. Notes of chocolate
and cream show midpalate, leading to a finish filled with
hints of allspice. Syrah. Kosher. Drink now through 2019.
246 cases made.—K.M.
ITALY
Basilicata
93 San Martino Aglianico del Vulture Kamai
2011 $48 A grippy red, with taut tannins wrapped in
expressive crushed black cherry, red licorice and dried
thyme notes. Firm and focused, yet harmonious overall,
suggesting more to come in the future. Smoke and spice
details linger on the finish. Best from 2017 through 2026.
250 cases made.—A.N.
91 Camerlengo Aglianico del Vulture 2009 $33
Well-spiced and lively, with dark and tangy wild berry and
herb flavors accented by mandarin orange peel and ground
pink peppercorn notes. Expressive and balanced, with taut
tannins adding grip to the long, minerally finish. Drink
now through 2026. 160 cases made.—A.N.
91 Carbone Aglianico del Vulture 400 Some
2011 $25 A savory red, with wild herb, tar and black
olive accents, featuring cassis and dried fig flavors wrapped
around grippy tannins. Bright and focused, presenting a
well-spiced, chewy finish. Drink now through 2024. 750
cases made.—A.N.
91 De Leonardis Aglianico del Vulture Mascu-
letum 2011 $25 Tomato leaf and wild herb aromas
lead to flavors of strawberry preserves and prune in this
grippy, plush red. Balanced, with Earl Grey tea accents
lingering on the finish. Drink now through 2024. 200
cases made.—A.N.
91 Lelùsi Aglianico del Vulture 2005 $35
This aging red is still fresh and focused, with a sanguine
edge to the dried cherry, loamy earth, star anise and singed
orange peel flavors. Well-knit and lightly chewy, offering
a subtle finish that echoes a cured tobacco note. Drink
now through 2021. 10,000 cases made.—A.N.
91 Tenuta del Portale Aglianico del Vulture
Le Vigne a Capanno 2011 $27 Candied raspberry
and plumped cherry notes leap from the glass of this well-
knit red, leading to savory leather, grilled herb, mocha
and spice accents on the creamy palate. Accessible and
harmonious, with a lasting, mineral-tinged finish. Drink
now through 2024. 700 cases made.—A.N.
91 Terre degli Svevi Aglianico del Vulture Re
Manfredi Serpara 2010 $49 Tar and smoke notes
lead the way in this muscular red, underscoring flavors of
plumped black cherry, bittersweet chocolate, dried thyme
and graphite. Rich and well-meshed, with sculpted tan-
nins firming the spiced finish. Best from 2018 through
2026. 120 cases imported.—A.N.
90 Elena Fucci Aglianico del Vulture Titolo 2013
$38 Initially smoky and reduced on the nose, but air
allows the sandalwood- and herb-laced flavors of raspberry
preserves and green olive to come through. Fleshy in tex-
ture, but set over sleek tannins that firm the chewy finish.
Drink now through 2021. 1,832 cases made.—A.N.
90 Grifalco della Lucania Aglianico del Vulture
Gricos 2012 $17 Medium-bodied and focused, with
sleek tannins and well-spiced flavors of raspberry puree,
dried marjoram and orange zest. Hints of smoke and mo-
cha show on the firm, tightly knit finish. Drink now
through 2024. 2,500 cases made.—A.N.
90 Madonna delle Grazie Aglianico del Vulture
Liscone 2010 $18 Lavender and dusty ground spice
aromatics accent raspberry compote, tarry mineral and
dried thyme notes in this sanguine red, framed by chewy
tannins. Well-knit and lightly juicy throughout. Drink
now through 2021.—A.N.
New Releases: Israel / Italy
90 Tenuta del Portale Aglianico del Vulture
Riserva 2009 $24 Tarry smoke and spice notes
underscore the raspberry compote and sun-dried cherry
flavors that ripple on the silky palate of this juicy, medium-
bodied red. Dried marjoram and graphite accents linger
on the firm, chewy finish. Drink now through 2021. 2,500
cases made.—A.N.
90 Cantina di Venosa Aglianico del Vulture
Gesualdo 2011 $40 Dried fig and aged balsamic hints
are layered with crushed black cherry and mocha notes
in this medium-bodied red, with bright acidity and dusty
tannins. Lightly chewy, offering a spiced finish. Drink now
through 2021. 7,500 cases made.—A.N.
89 Donato d’Angelo Aglianico del Vulture
Calice 2012 $23 There’s an old-school vibe to this
dry, medium-bodied red, firmed by angular tannins and
offering tobacco, dried cherry and fig cake notes. Drink
now through 2020. 6,666 cases made.—A.N.
89 Camerlengo Basilicata White Accamilla 2013
$27 Aromatic, with notes of fresh hay, dried orange peel
and Asian five-spice powder, this is creamy in texture and
framed by firm, well-knit acidity that enlivens the flavors
of steeped white cherry, toasted pistachio and fleur de sel.
A distinctive wine, offering a tactile, smoky finish. Mal-
vasia. Drink now through 2020. 160 cases made.—A.N.
89 Tenuta Marino Aglianico Basilicata Terra
Aspra 2008 $28 A creamy red, framed by light, dusty
tannins, this offers aromatic eucalyptus and medicinal
herb notes and fresh earth, sun-dried cherry and date fla-
vors. Well-knit and medium-bodied, presenting a soft,
fragrant finish. Drink now through 2020. 2,500 cases
made.—A.N.
88 Carbone Fiano Basilicata 2013 $21 A subtle,
mineral-driven white, with a pronounced streak of salin-
ity layered with floral hints of apple skin, singed orange
peel and almond. A balanced, if atypical, version that will
benefit from decanting. Drink now through 2019. 333
cases made.—A.N.
88 De Leonardis Aglianico del Vulture Piano del
Moro 2011 $18 This shows balance, offering a fresh
mix of dried cranberry and cherry fruit, with smoke, dried
herb and mandarin orange peel notes. Chewy tannins firm
the finish. Drink now through 2020. 500 cases
made.—A.N.
88 Tenuta Marino Primitivo Matera Terra Aspra
2009 $29 A juicy red, with dried raspberry and pome-
granate notes, accented by abundant ground spice and
wild herb details. Medium-bodied and balanced, showing
light tannins on the fruit-forward finish. Drink now
through 2020. 2,500 cases made.—A.N.
88 Mastrodomenico Basilicata Mos 2012 $19
The richly tarry nose is layered with sun-dried currant,
grilled herb, mocha and spice flavors, backed by burly tan-
nins. Aglianico. Best after 2017. 1,500 cases made.—A.N.
ITALY
Friuli—Venezia-Giulia
90 Scarbolo Venezia-Giulia Campo del Viotto
2013 $46 A silky red that’s supple and well-knit, with
juicy acidity and accents of spice box, mocha and dried
thyme layered with sappy sun-dried black cherry and
crème de cassis flavors. Medium-bodied and balanced,
with light tannins on the lingering, mineral-tinged finish.
Merlot. Drink now through 2023. 500 cases made.—A.N.
90 La Tunella Friulano Friuli Colli Orientali Col
Livius 2014 $30 A creamy white, with smoke and
spice notes accenting the glazed apricot, pastry cream and
lemon curd flavors. Medium-bodied, with sleek acidity
keeping this balanced and focused. Drink now through
2021. 850 cases made.—A.N.
90 Vie di Romans Chardonnay Friuli Isonzo
2014 $45 Rich hints of pastry cream and vanilla lace
glazed apple, star anise and lemon parfait flavors in this
well-knit white. Fresh and focused, with smoke and spice
details on the lingering finish. Drink now through 2021.
3,625 cases made.—A.N.
90 Vie di Romans Pinot Grigio Friuli Isonzo
Dessimis 2014 $43 Fine and creamy, this supple white
offers delicate notes of glazed apple, lemon parfait, orchard
blossom and candied ginger, enlivened by well-meshed
acidity. Offers a lingering finish, with mineral and spice ac-
cents. Drink now through 2021. 2,950 cases made.—A.N.
89 Poggiobello Pinot Grigio Friuli Colli Orien-
tali 2015 $25 A bright and mouthwatering white, with
a well-spiced profile of glazed apple and apricot fruit, and
candied ginger, lemon zest, hot stone and smoke notes.
Sleek and well-knit, presenting a zesty finish. Drink now
through 2020. 400 cases imported.—A.N.
89 Villa Russiz Friulano Collio 2014 $26
A lively, light- to medium-bodied and well-knit white,
offering a smoke-tinged, minerally overtone layered with
subtle notes of yellow plum and apple fruit, showing hints
of zesty grated ginger and slivered almond. Drink now
through 2020. 250 cases imported.—A.N.
89 Villa Russiz Pinot Bianco Collio 2014 $26
A sleek, minerally version that’s tightly knit today, show-
ing subtle hints of melon, lemon parfait and almond skin.
Zesty on the mouthwatering, brine-tinged finish. Drink
now through 2020. 250 cases imported.—A.N.
89 Villa Russiz Sauvignon Collio 2014 $27
Lithe and light-bodied, this elegant Sauvignon shows a
stony, minerally base and a fresh mix of green melon, fresh
chervil, lime zest and white peach flavors. Lingering fin-
ish. Drink now through 2020. 500 cases imported.—A.N.
ITALY
Piedmont / Barbaresco
96 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco
Asili Riserva 2011 $59 See Highly Recommended,
page 119.
95 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco
Muncagota Riserva 2011 $59 This is all about finesse,
elegance and silky texture. Cherry, eucalyptus, licorice and
spice flavors permeate the vibrant frame. The balance sug-
gests you could enjoy this now, but there is a firm underly-
ing structure. The terrific finish echoes the fruit and ups
the ante with a chalky, minerally vein. Best from 2018
through 2032. 1,388 cases made.—B.S.
95 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco
Pora Riserva 2011 $59 Broad and brooding, this mus-
cular Barbaresco packs an oversize frame with black cherry,
tar, licorice and spice flavors. More about power than fi-
nesse, with an extremely long finish. Best from 2019
through 2035. 1,388 cases made.—B.S.
95 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco
Rabajà Riserva 2011 $59 A juicy, cherry-, menthol-
and tar-flavored red, with a linear profile and fine tension.
Floral and mineral elements enter the fray as this builds
to a long, chalk- and tannin-filled finish. Lean, yet pure
and intense, with great potential. Best from 2019 through
2033. 1,354 cases made.—B.S.
94 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco
Montefico Riserva 2011 $59 Aromatic, offering
cherry, strawberry and tar notes, picking up a licorice fla-
vor on the palate. Round and supple, this has fine grip
and a long, savory finish. Drink now through 2028. 1,111
cases made.—B.S.
94 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco
Pajé Riserva 2011 $59 Broad and savory, boasting
cherry, leather, tobacco, wild thyme and eucalyptus notes.
A sweet fruit essence offsets the dense tannins, while the
finish stretches out. Excellent length. Best from 2018
through 2032. 833 cases made.—B.S.
SEPT. 30, 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 133

94 Albino Rocca Barbaresco Ronchi 2012 $52
Textbook aromas and flavors of rose, cherry and tar, along
with shadings of tobacco and mineral, combine with a
firm, vibrant structure in this elegant, intense red. The
long aftertaste echoes the flavors, while the juicy texture
enhances them. Best from 2018 through 2032. 833 cases
made.—B.S.
94 Sottimano Barbaresco Currá 2012 $75
Offers a tightly woven fabric permeated by cherry, cur-
rant, eucalyptus and tobacco flavors. Though firm and
dusty, the tannins are offset with enough fruit and density
for balance. The finish is austere now, but this will find
equilibrium in time. Best from 2018 through 2028. 200
cases made.—B.S.
93 Marco & Vittorio Adriano Barbaresco Basa-
rin 2012 $27 See Highly Recommended, page 119.
93 Marco & Vittorio Adriano Barbaresco Sana-
daive 2012 $32 Big, rich and juicy, this red exhibits
cherry, plum, leather and tobacco flavors. A dense grid of
tannins offers support as this builds to a long, cherry- and
berry-laced aftertaste, with a stony, chalky underpinning.
Best from 2018 through 2030. 1,000 cases made.—B.S.
93 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco
Montestefano Riserva 2011 $59 Lean, intense and
racy, this exudes cherry, leather, spice and underbrush
aromas and flavors. Dense, beefy tannins shore up the fin-
ish, which remains minerally, long and complex. Shows
potential but needs time. Best from 2019 through 2035.
1,382 cases made.—B.S.
93 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco
Ovello Riserva 2011 $59 A peppery, spicy style, this
displays cherry, eucalyptus, tar and black pepper aromas
and flavors. Firmly tannic, yet with a core of concentrated
sweet fruit, tobacco and tea accents on the lingering fin-
ish. Best from 2019 through 2033. 1,380 cases made.—B.S.
93 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco
Rio Sordo Riserva 2011 $59 A fresh, fruity version,
this sports cherry, plum, licorice, tar and spice flavors. A
salty, minerally element emerges as the firm structure
guides the lingering aftertaste. Juicy yet intense. Best from
2017 through 2030. 1,111 cases made.—B.S.
93 Albino Rocca Barbaresco Montersino 2012
$46 Aromas of rose, tar and cherry, along with hints of
licorice and spice, enliven this pretty red. Vibrant acidity
keeps this elegant, while the finish fades gracefully, show-
ing sweet fruit and licorice details. Drink now through
2025. 216 cases made.—B.S.
93 Albino Rocca Barbaresco Vigna Loreto
Ovello 2012 $57 Bright acidity defines this red, mar-
shaling the currant, cherry and rose aromas and flavors.
Mineral and tobacco accents chime in as this plays out
on the long, mineral- and tobacco-infused aftertaste. Best
from 2017 through 2030. 216 cases made.—B.S.
93 Sottimano Barbaresco Pajoré 2013 $58
Rich and densely structured, with cherry and plum flavors
and accents of tar, tobacco and tea. The tannins are gruff
in this muscular style, yet also bright and fresh, revealing
an earthy, tobacco-tinged finish. Best from 2018 through
2032. 400 cases made.—B.S.
92 Sottimano Barbaresco Fausoni 2013 $58
Floral top notes are grounded by cherry, strawberry and
spice in this firm, wiry red. Shows all the components,
just needs time to integrate fully. Fine length. Best from
2018 through 2028. 400 cases made.—B.S.
ITALY
Piedmont / Other
90 Nervi Gattinara Molsino 2009 $80 Rich
and concentrated, with licorice, dried cherry, briar and
tobacco aromas and flavors. The tannins are a bit stiff, but
this plays out long and complex on the minerally, saline
finish. Drink now through 2020. 1,040 cases made.—B.S.
134 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. 30, 2016
New Releases: Italy
90 Pecchenino Dogliani San Luigi 2015
Black cherry, boysenberry and violet candy flavors mark
$22
this pretty, juicy red. Shows excellent purity and intensity,
with the emphasis on the fruit. Drink now. 3,916 cases
made.—B.S.
89 Malabaila di Canale Roero Arneis 2015 $16
A grapefruit peel note lends a touch of bitterness, accent-
ing the core of peach and honeydew melon flavors. Fin-
ishes clean and mouthwatering. Drink now. 2,500 cases
made.—B.S.
89 Malabaila di Canale Roero Arneis Pradvaj
2015 $19 Perfumed, with notes of peach and flowers
accented by apple hints. Shows a firm, tactile feel on the
finish. Balanced and long. Drink now. 833 cases made.—B.S.
89 Monchiero Carbone Roero Arneis Recit 2014
$15 A mellow, rich and slightly oily white, with white
peach, melon and grapefruit flavors. Balanced and intense,
this finishes with juicy accents of sage and lime. Drink
now. 10,000 cases made.—B.S.
89 Pecchenino Dogliani
Superiore Bricco Botti 2013
$43 Saturated with dark fruit, this
blackberry- and plum-infused red is
backed by dense, dusty tannins and
earthy, leathery accents on the fin- ATTILIO, MARINO
ish. Drink now through 2018. 583 & ORLANDO
PECCHENINO
cases made.—B.S. Owners & Winemakers
87 Malabaila di Canale Favorita Langhe 2014
$16 Offers a floral aroma, with flavors of peach and
white pepper. Shows vibrant acidity on the finish. Bal-
anced and fresh. Drink now. 833 cases made.—B.S.
ITALY
Sicily
90 Ceuso Sicilia 2011 $42 Creamy and well-knit,
with chewy tannins wrapped in fleshy flavors of damson
plum preserves, baked black currant and eucalyptus,
showing hints of ground anise and dried orange peel. A
harmonious red that should open up with some air or short-
term aging. Nero d’Avola, Cabernet Sauvignon and Mer-
lot. Best from 2017 through 2024. 1,833 cases made.—A.N.
90 Firriato Perricone Sicilia Ribeca 2012 $42
There’s good length and density to this medium- to full-
bodied version, offering a smoky underpinning and
ripe black currant and Earl Grey tea flavors. Bright and
focused, with chewy tannins on the finish. Drink now
through 2022. 5,000 cases made.—A.N.
87 Feudo di Santa Tresa Nero d’Avola Terre
Siciliane Purato 2015 $13 Light- to medium-bodied
and fruit-forward, with crème de cassis and raspberry pâte
de fruit flavors, showing hints of orange zest and star an-
ise. Offers a mouthwatering finish and light tannins.
16,666 cases made.—A.N.
87 Feudo Maccari Grillo Terre Siciliane 2015 $18
Hints of candied lemon zest, grated ginger notes and lively
acidity frame fresh flavors of melon, guava and star fruit
in this light-bodied white. Drink now. 18,000 cases
made.—A.N.
87 Firriato Grillo Sicilia Altavilla della Corte
2015 $16 Aromatic, with orange blossom and spice
notes, offering flavors of pink grapefruit granita and Thai
basil. Light-bodied and fresh, presenting a citrusy finish.
Drink now. 50,000 cases made.—A.N.
87 Firriato Nero d’Avola Terre Siciliane Chiara-
monte 2013 $18 An expressive, well-spiced red, with
a rich, tarry underpinning and flavors of sun-dried cherry
and cranberry, cured tobacco and licorice drop. Grippy,
with spice and smoke notes on the finish. Best from 2018
through 2021. 70,000 cases made.—A.N.
ITALY
Trentino-Alto Adige
91 Tenuta San Leonardo Vigneti delle Dolomiti
Villa Gresti 2009 $52 Well-knit and savory, with a
grippy frame and a minerally underpinning, this offers
grilled herb, black currant, bresaola and smoke notes.
Long, spiced finish. Merlot with Carmenère. Best from
2018 through 2024. 1,250 cases made.—A.N.
91 Elena Walch Alto Adige Beyond the Clouds
2014 $65 Rich flavors of baked pineapple, lime
blossom, lemon curd and exotic spice are set in a sleek,
medium-bodied package, with well-knit racy acidity and
smoky minerality focusing this into a clean-cut, lingering
finish. Predominantly Chardonnay. Drink now through
2024. 1,200 cases made.—A.N.
91 Elena Walch Pinot Nero Alto Adige Ludwig
2013 $38 Lovely on the nose, this harmonious red
layers aromas and flavors of ripe cherry, Earl Grey tea, dried
strawberry, mineral and abundant ground spice with supple
tannins and fresh acidity. Very elegant, with a long, silky
finish. Drink now through 2023. 900 cases made.—A.N.
90 St.-Michael-Eppan Sauvignon Alto Adige
Sanct Valentin 2015 $37 A creamy white, with a
minerally underpinning and an aromatic mix of ripe white
peach, Thai basil, honeydew melon and ground ginger
flavors. Finely knit and fresh, this light- to medium-bodied
version features a lasting finish of orchard blossom and
spice. Drink now through 2021. 11,000 cases made.—A.N.
90 Elena Walch Gewürztraminer Alto Adige
Vigna Kastelaz 2015 $35 Dry and juicy, this shows
the grape’s typical spice, lychee, rose and glazed pink
grapefruit flavors, with a petrol underpinning and a
vibrant finish that lingers with a push of fruit and spice.
Drink now through 2020. 1,200 cases made.—A.N.
90 Elena Walch Lagrein Alto Adige Castel
Ringberg Riserva 2011 $45 A tightly knit version,
with firm tannins that offer expressive notes of crushed
black currant, smoky speck, dried lavender and crushed
pink peppercorn. Fresh and focused, presenting a linger-
ing, aromatic finish. Drink now through 2021. 800 cases
made.—A.N.
89 Elena Walch Pinot Bianco Alto Adige
Kristallberg 2015 $25 Ripe pineapple and nectarine
fruit is framed by vivacious acidity and a streak of smoke-
tinged mineral in this well-knit, light- to medium-bodied
white. Accents of lemon zest, grated ginger and ground
pink peppercorn lace the finish. Drink now through 2020.
700 cases made.—A.N.
89 Elena Walch Sauvignon Alto Adige Vigna
Castel Ringberg 2015 $28 A creamy white, well-
knit and enlivened by vibrant acidity, this offers green
melon, lemon parfait and hints of fresh tarragon, Thai
basil and pickled ginger. Zesty finish. Drink now through
2020. 1,300 cases made.—A.N.
88 Tiefenbrunner Pinot Grigio Vigneti delle
Dolomiti 2015 $16 This zesty white is light-bodied
and floral, balancing bright acidity with a stony underpin-
ning and flavors of Honeycrisp apple and blood orange
granita. Drink now through 2019. 29,000 cases made.—A.N.
87 Bollini Chardonnay Trentino Barricato 40
2015 $13 Lively flavors of Gala apple, pink grapefruit
zest, stone, and ground ginger are complemented by zippy
acidity in this light-bodied, lip-smacking white. Drink
now through 2018. 3,300 cases made.—A.N.
ITALY
Tuscany / Bolgheri
94 Antinori Bolgheri Superiore Guado al Tasso
2013 $125 A bit reticent, with black cherry, black cur-
rant and herb flavors married to a supple texture and fine-
grained tannins. The long finish shows promise, but this
will need a few years to flesh out. Cabernet Sauvignon,

Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Best from 2018
through 2027. 750 cases imported.—B.S.
93 Antinori Bolgheri Tenuta Guado al Tasso
Cont’Ugo 2013 $60 An opulent, dense red, featur-
ing ripe black cherry and blackberry notes, with persistent
hints of earth and tobacco. The flavors linger on the spicy
aftertaste as the vibrant structure lends support. Decant
now or age another year. Merlot. Drink now through 2025.
500 cases imported.—B.S.
93 Tenuta Sette Cieli Bolgheri NOI4 2013 $42
Aromas and flavors of black currant, cedar, tar and earth
combine in this dense, juicy red. Refined tannins provide
support as this remains fresh and long on the mineral-
infused aftertaste. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Ver-
dot and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2017 through 2024.
667 cases made.—B.S.
92 Ca’ Marcanda Bolgheri Camarcanda 2012
$135 A dark, brooding style, boasting black cherry, plum
and spice flavors, underscored by dense tannins. Offers an
enticing mix of power and finesse, with a long finish. Mer-
lot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Drink now
through 2023. 2,500 cases made.—B.S.
90 Ornellaia Bolgheri Le Serre Nuove 2013 $78
Dense and tightly wound, this red exhibits blackberry,
black cherry, spice and earth flavors. Muscular tannins
hold down the compact, cedary finish. Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Best from
2018 through 2029. 2,600 cases imported.—B.S.
90 Podere Sapaio Bolgheri Superiore 2012 $69
This is tightly wound and dense, set on a sleek, linear
frame. The vibrant structure imparts a crisp feel, yet the
sweet black cherry and blackberry fruit needs time to be
teased out. Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Cab-
ernet Franc. Best from 2019 through 2029. 890 cases
made.—B.S.
New Releases: Italy
89 Antinori Bolgheri Tenuta Guado al Tasso Il
Bruciato 2014 $31 A bright, pure version, this red
evokes cherry, currant and spice flavors, with well-
integrated, if dusty, tannins lining the finish. Firm but has
the requisite fruit. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah.
Best from 2017 through 2024. 15,000 cases imported.—B.S.
ITALY
Tuscany / Toscana
94 Antinori Toscana Tignanello 2013 $105
Aromas of graphite, smoke and tobacco introduce the
cherry flavor in this expressive, focused red. Firm tannins
and lively acidity balance the fruit and purity, while
herbal, spice and mineral elements all gather steam as this
plays out on the long finish. Sangiovese, Cabernet Sau-
vignon and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2017 through 2027.
2,500 cases imported.—B.S.
94 Querciabella Toscana Turpino 2011 $60
Enticing aromas and flavors of cherry, leather, licorice and
mineral are the hallmarks of this polished, intense red.
Beautifully balanced, but requires a little more time for
the dense tannins to soften. Shows terrific length and a
complex aftertaste. Cabernet Franc, Syrah and Merlot.
Drink now through 2023. 16 cases imported.—B.S.
93 Luce della Vite Toscana Luce 2013 $125
A sheen of resinous oak casts an accent over the black
cherry and plum fruit in this powerful, chewy red. All the
components are in the right place. Needs a little more
time. Sangiovese and Merlot. Best from 2018 through
2024. 1,400 cases imported.—B.S.
93 Querciabella Toscana Palafreno 2012 $189
Graphite and blackberry aromas lead off in this complex,
sophisticated red. The spicy, toasted oak accents are well-
integrated, concentrated and balanced. A light, cocoalike
dusting of tannins lines the lingering finish. Merlot. Drink
now through 2023. 3 cases imported.—B.S.
92 Altesino Toscana Alte d’Altesi 2013 $40
Black currant, blackberry, tobacco and tea flavors are
accented by pleasantly woven oak spice here. Intense and
long, with fine overall balance and expression. Sangio-
vese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Drink now through
2020. 206 cases made.—B.S.
92 Badia a Coltibuono Toscana Montebello 2011
$60 A lean, tight and racy version, this offers floral,
cherry, leather, tobacco and earth flavors, backed by dusty
tannins. Gains harmony and elegance with air, culminat-
ing in a long finish. Mammolo, Ciliegiolo, Pugnitello, Col-
orino, Sanforte, Malvasia Nera, Canaiolo, Fogliatonda and
Sangiovese. Drink now through 2024. 1,100 cases
made.—B.S.
92 Querciabella Toscana Camartina 2011 $150
Still showing some oak, with hints of resin and vanilla,
along with plum, blackberry, iron and tobacco notes.
Dense and beefy, finishing long and concentrated. Cab-
ernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese. Drink now through
2023. 100 cases imported.—B.S.
91 Capezzana Toscana Ghiaie della Furba 2012
$60 A veneer of oak adds tannins to the black cherry
and black currant fruit, accentuated by herb, iron and to-
bacco notes. Dense and capped by dusty, muscular tan-
nins. Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot. Best from
2018 through 2027. 200 cases imported.—B.S.
90 Canneto Toscana Filippone 2012 $40 The
black cherry, plum, wild herb and cedar flavors are
matched to a dense matrix in this muscular red. Balanced,
this needs food or a little bottle aging to soften the tan-
nins. Sangiovese and Merlot. Best from 2017 through
2027. 330 cases made.—B.S.
SEPT. 30, 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 135

90 Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi Toscana Tenuta di
Castiglioni 2013 $25 See Smart Buys, page 121.
90 Querciabella Toscana Mongrana 2013 $25
The harmony and texture of this red sets the pace for
cherry, strawberry, anise and spice flavors. Gains purity in
the glass, offering a refined structure and lingering after-
taste. Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Drink
now through 2018. 250 cases imported.—B.S.
90 Querciabella Toscana White Batàr 2013 $90
This is bright, offering peach, melon and subtle orange peel
flavors and spicy oak nuances. Balanced and integrated,
gaining harmony with air, so decant now. Shows fine
intensity and a lingering finish. Chardonnay and Pinot
Blanc. Drink now through 2020. 185 cases imported.—B.S.
89 Castiglion del Bosco Toscana Dainero 2013
$21 Black cherry is the main flavor theme in this rich,
fruity red. Vibrant, with a light dusting of tannins and fine
length. Balanced and enjoyable now. Merlot. Drink now
through 2018. 500 cases imported.—B.S.
89 Luce della Vite Toscana Lucente 2014 $30
Intense aromas and flavors of black currant, cedar, tobacco,
toast and spice highlight this concentrated red. Stays fresh
and focused on the finish. Sangiovese and Merlot. Drink
now through 2020. 10,500 cases imported.—B.S.
87 Antinori Toscana White Villa Antinori 2015
$14 A mix of floral, peach and melon flavors highlights
this juicy white. Lingers with a hint of grapefruit on the
finish. Trebbiano, Malvasia, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Grigio
and Riesling. Drink now. 9,685 cases imported.—B.S.
87 Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi Vermentino
Toscana Ammiraglia Massovivo 2015 $18 This is
fruity, boasting peach, apple and almond flavors. Balanced,
picking up a touch of grapefruit on the finish. Drink now.
900 cases imported.—B.S.
87 Ornellaia Toscana Le Volte 2014 $31 A fluid,
cherry-laced red, with bright acidity leading to a moder-
ately long conclusion. Merlot, Sangiovese and Cabernet
Sauvignon. Drink now. 9,000 cases imported.—B.S.
84 Santa Cristina Toscana 2014 $12 Cranberry
and currant notes permeate the fleshy texture in this juicy
red. The bright fruit needs a light chill. Sangiovese, Cab-
ernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah. Drink now. 85,000
cases imported.—B.S.
ITALY
Tuscany / Other
94 Capezzana Carmignano Trefiano Riserva
2010 $55 Fresh and focused, with cherry, raspberry,
mineral, earth and licorice aromas and flavors. Firmly
structured and linear, showing fine balance and a long,
cascading finish. Drink now through 2028. 300 cases
imported.—B.S.
93 Capezzana Carmignano Villa di Capezzana
2006 $55 At or close to maturity, this red exhibits
cherry, plum, leather, spice and tea flavors. Shows serious,
dusty tannins on the lingering aftertaste. Drink now
through 2023. 100 cases imported.—B.S.
93 Valdonica Ciliegiolo Maremma Toscana 2012
$60 Rich and saturated, with black cherry, cedar, min-
eral and spice aromas and flavors. Becomes more savory,
building to a long, juicy, mineral- and spice-tinged after-
taste. Needs a year to absorb the oak. Best from 2017
through 2023. 50 cases made.—B.S.
92 La Braccesca Syrah Cortona Achelo 2014
$22 The smoky cherry, strawberry and raspberry fruit
takes on mineral and tobacco notes in this elegant, dis-
tinctive red, revealing a meaty element. The finish is juicy,
with an accent of black pepper. Drink now through 2020.
635 cases imported.—B.S.
92 Canneto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Riserva 2011 $36 Settling into a sweet spot, this red
136 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. 30, 2016
New Releases: Italy / New Zealand
is harmonious and fresh, featuring sweet cherry, leather,
spice and underbrush aromas and flavors. Firm yet bal-
anced, with a long finish of spice and tobacco. Drink now
through 2022. 2,500 cases made.—B.S.
92 Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Il
Poggio Riserva 2011 $55 A mix of graphite, tea,
cherry and raspberry flavors are the highlights of this
elegant, firmly structured red. Dense, dusty tannins reign
on the finish. On the rustic side, yet with plenty of per-
sonality. This gets better with air. Drink now through
2024. 400 cases imported.—B.S.
92 Valdonica Monteregio di Massa Marittima
Baciòlo Riserva 2012 $42 Fine depth and intensity
mark this rich, cherry-laced red, with spicy oak, leather and
tobacco accents. Picks up a saline note on the finish. Bal-
anced, but decant now or cellar for a year or two. Sangio-
vese. Best from 2017 through 2023. 166 cases made.—B.S.
91 Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico
Riserva 2013 $25 See Smart Buys, page 121.
90 Capezzana Carmignano Villa di Capezzana
2012 $27 Starts out beefy, with iron, leather and
underbrush aromas, picking up cherry and plum notes on
the palate. Dense, dusty tannins line the finish, but this
has complexity and persistence. Drink now through 2023.
2,000 cases imported.—B.S.
90 Moris Farms Monteregio di Massa Marittima
Barbaspinosa 2012 $23 A dark, inky style, boasting
black cherry, plum and tar flavors enveloped in a dense
matrix of tannins. The beam of fruit persists through the
long finish. Minerally aftertaste. Sangiovese and Cabernet
Sauvignon. Best from 2017 through 2023. 1,583 cases
made.—B.S.
90 Tenuta Valdipiatta Vino Nobile di Montep-
ulciano Vigna d’Alfiero 2013 $45 A dense, grainy
version, with plum, cherry, leather and tobacco flavors.
Compact and balanced, turning firm on the long finish,
with dense, dusty tannins. Decant now or age for a year or
so. Best from 2018 through 2027. 45 cases imported.—B.S.
89 Il Molino di Grace Chianti Classico 2013 $23
A fluid, balanced red, with a vibrant structure driving the
cherry, currant, tobacco and earth flavors. Dusty tannins line
the finish. Drink now through 2019. 5,800 cases made.—B.S.
89 Tenuta Valdipiatta Vino Nobile di Montep-
ulciano 2013 $30 A bright, juicy red, boasting cherry,
spice, earth and tobacco flavors. Balanced and elegant,
yet with grip on the moderately long finish. Drink now
through 2020. 450 cases imported.—B.S.
89 Valdonica Maremma Toscana White Ballar-
ino 2013 $24 This fresh version starts out with a briny
seashore note, picking up flavors of spiced apple, sweet
baking spices and buttered pastry. Balanced, ending with
a savory hint. Vermentino. Drink now through 2018. 250
cases made.—B.S.
87 Moris Farms Maremma Toscana Mandriolo
2015 $10 Ripe, juicy blackberry is the hallmark of this
effusive red. Perhaps not that complex, but there are shad-
ings of spice, earth and tobacco. Sangiovese, Petit Verdot,
Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Drink now through
2018. 5,333 cases made.—B.S.
87 Mormoraia Vernaccia di San Gimignano
Ostrea 2015 $19 Offers peachy fruit flavors and a rich,
oily texture, with apple and almond notes as this lingers
on the savory finish. Drink now. 1,800 cases made.—B.S.
87 Castello di Volpaia Chianti Classico 2014
$21 A focused beam of pure cherry fits the racy profile
of this linear red. Accents of strawberry, tea and tobacco
add depth. Drink now. 166,667 cases made.—B.S.
84 Capezzana Barco Reale di Carmignano 2014
$15 On the lean, tensile side, with black cherry, plum,
earth and iron flavors allied to a dense, firm structure.
Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Canaiolo. Drink
now through 2018. 6,000 cases imported.—B.S.
ITALY
Other Red
93 Rocca di Fabbri Montefalco Sagrantino 2011
$32 A dense red, with a core of dried fig, graphite, black
olive and herb, tightly knit to firm, dusty tannins and tarry
minerality. Bright and balanced overall, with a long, spiced
finish. This will take some time for the full potential and
range to show. From Umbria. Best from 2020 through
2030. 2,400 cases made.—A.N.
91 Arnaldo Caprai Montefalco Riserva 2010
$50 A pure beam of ripe black cherry is woven with
black olive and cured tobacco accents in this chewy, me-
dium- to full-bodied red. Fresh and focused, presenting a
firm, spicy and sanguine finish. From Umbria. Drink now
through 2026. 450 cases made.—A.N.
91 Vincenzo Ippolito Cirò Colli del Mancuso
Riserva 2012 $32 This dense, chewy red is fresh and
focused, with aromatic spice and graphite notes and tight-
knit flavors of crushed currant and Earl Grey tea, balanced
by a minerally underpinning. Harmonious overall, but needs
time in the cellar to shine. Gaglioppo. From Calabria. Best
from 2018 through 2024. 850 cases made.—A.N.
90 Vincenzo Ippolito Gaglioppo-Cabernet
Calabria I Mori 2014 $35 An elegant red, with sleek
tannins and fresh acidity. A delicate skein of spice unrav-
els through the flavors of raspberry pâte de fruit, thyme,
mineral and dried fig. Drink now through 2021. 650 cases
made.—A.N.
90 Nino Negri Valtellina Superiore Vigneto
Fracia 2013 $41 A vibrant, well-knit red, medium-
bodied and juicy, this offers crushed raspberry, orange zest,
mineral and star anise notes set in a lightly tannic frame.
From Lombardy. Drink now through 2020. 200 cases
imported.—A.N.
89 Cataldo Calabretta Cirò Classico Superiore
2014 $19 A grippy red, with tightly knit flavors of
dried cherry, spice box, tea rose and herbed olive, show-
ing a streak of pronounced minerality that expands with
air. Gaglioppo. From Calabria. Best from 2018 through
2021. 3,300 cases made.—A.N.
89 Rocca di Fabbri Montefalco 2013 $17
A bright and expressive red, with a juicy mix of wild straw-
berry, red licorice, spice and graphite, framed by chewy
tannins and a tarry underpinning. From Umbria. Drink
now through 2024. 5,000 cases made.—A.N.
87 San Lorenzo Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Gru
2014 $10 Dark and brambly, this is medium-bodied
and juicy, layering black currant and boysenberry fruit
with light tannins and hints of graphite and mocha. Drink
now through 2018. 9,000 cases made.—A.N.
87 Zeni Valpolicella Superiore Marogne Ripasso
2014 $16 Subtle and creamy, this balanced red offers
a well-knit palate, with notes of kirsch, dark chocolate,
spice and smoke. From Veneto. Drink now through 2018.
6,000 cases made.—A.N.
86 Ciccio Zaccagnini Montepulciano d’Abruzzo
Tralcetto 2014 $16 Light- to medium-bodied and
juicy, with spice and smoke notes underscoring the crushed
boysenberry and raspberry fruit. Easy-drinking and fresh.
Drink now through 2018. 125,000 cases made.—A.N.
NEW ZEALAND
95 Felton Road Pinot Noir Central Otago
Cornish Point 2014 $80 Generous and expressive,
with spiced plum, date bread and vanilla bean flavors that
are rich and ripe, with fleshy, velvety tannins and plenty
of clove and fresh earth details. Everything comes together
on the finish, which lingers effortlessly. Drink now through
2026. 1,078 cases made.—M.W.
 New Releases: New Zealand / Portugal
94 Felton Road Pinot Noir Central Otago
Calvert 2014 $80 Plush and elegant, offering wild
strawberry and raspberry flavors, with plenty of precision
to the white pepper and fresh earth notes. Fresh and vi-
brant, showing intensity on the finish. Drink now through
2026. 995 cases made.—M.W.
93 Felton Road Pinot Noir Central Otago
Bannockburn 2014 $65 Bay leaf, juniper and forest
floor notes add an intriguing, fresh green edge to the juicy
cherry and cranberry flavors, lingering with a note of dried
lavender on the long, expressive finish. Drink now through
2026. 4,930 cases made.—M.W.
93 Felton Road Pinot Noir Central Otago Block
5 2014 $100 Rich and plush, with fleshy cherry and
plum flavors that have plenty of charm, offering details
of vanilla custard, nutmeg and white pepper. Accents of
mocha and pine linger. Drink now through 2026. 613
cases made.—M.W.
92 Craggy Range Pinot Noir
Martinborough Te Muna Road
Vineyard Single Vineyard 2013
$46 Creamy and supple-textured,
exhibiting complex notes of clay,
black tea and star anise, accented by
plum compote, tobacco and sage
details. Comes together in harmony
on the long, lingering finish, where
a touch of tomato leaf lingers. Drink
now through 2030. 800 cases MATT STAFFORD
imported.—M.W. Winemaker
89 Giesen Pinot Gris Marlborough 2015 $15
Open knit, with juicy flavors of peach, floral and melon
that linger, offering a honeysuckle detail on the long fin-
ish. Drink now. 2,000 cases imported.—M.W.
89 Goldwater Sauvignon Blanc Wairau Valley
2015 $20 The lemon-lime flavors are vibrant and juicy,
with fresh-cut grass details and a note of lemon verbena.
Fragrant and refreshing on the finish. Drink now. 2,000
cases imported.—M.W.
89 Satellite Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2015
$15 Vivid and lip-smacking, with Key lime pie, mango
and passion fruit flavors. Shows plenty of intensity and per-
sistence on the finish. Drink now. 9,000 cases made.—M.W.
88 Echo Bay Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough
2015 $12 There’s a tangy appeal to the lemon and lime
sherbet flavors, with a touch of crunchy green apple and
vibrant acidity on the finish. Drink now. 5,000 cases
made.—M.W.
88 Giesen Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2015
$15 Melon, honeysuckle and pear flavors are fragrant
and elegant, set on a light, refreshing body. Fresh herb
notes and minerality highlight the finish. Drink now.
45,000 cases imported.—M.W.
88 Innocent Bystander Sauvignon Blanc Marl-
borough 2015 $15 Vivid pear, lemongrass and lime
zest flavors show an air of elegance, with a supple texture
and a lingering, juicy finish. Drink now. 5,000 cases
imported.—M.W.
88 Tussock Jumper Sauvignon Blanc Marlbor-
ough 2015 $14 Peppery white flower notes add an
aromatic edge to the lime and grapefruit flavors. Melon
and peach details linger on the juicy finish. Drink now.
25,000 cases made.—M.W.
87 13 Celsius Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough
2015 $17 There’s an edge of chamomile and floral to
the apple and citrus flavors, imparting a soft, elegant note.
Finishes juicy. Drink now. 21,000 cases made.—M.W.
87 Clos Henri Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough
Petit Clos 2015 $16 There’s a touch of flint and min-
erality to the citrus and tropical fruit flavors. Intense and
juicy on the finish. Drink now. 12,000 cases made.—M.W.
87 Dashwood Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough
2015 $15 The lemongrass, melon and lime flavors are
light and refreshing, with a crisp edge on the finish. Drink
now. 30,000 cases imported.—M.W.
87 Frenzy Sauvignon Blanc South Island 2015
$14 There’s a pungent, floral and herbal edge to the
citrus and green apple flavors. Tangy and juicy on the fin-
ish. Drink now. 7,000 cases made.—M.W.
87 Lawson’s Dry Hills Sauvignon Blanc Marl-
borough 2015 $17 Shows good intensity to the robust
roasted lemon, crunchy green apple and grapefruit flavors,
with firm acidity. Drink now. 13,500 cases made.—M.W.
PORTUGAL
97 Graham Tawny Port 90 NV $1,000 Savory
and rich, with hints of green olive, slate and honey to the
delicate, deeply spiced flavors of plum tart, apricot and
chocolate. Elegant and complex, with a long yet fresh fin-
ish that echoes with pistachio and dried green herbal ac-
cents. Drink now. 42 cases made.—K.M.
95 Sandeman Tawny Port 30 Year Old NV $85
Citrus zest accents provide a zesty backdrop to the lush,
rich and creamy flavors of butterscotch, white chocolate
and café au lait. Fresh and minerally on the finish, with
notes of sea salt. Complex and pure. Drink now. 200 cases
imported.—K.M.
93 Sandeman Tawny Port 20 Year Old NV $52
Broad, rich and elegant, with creamy, supple flavors of
butterscotch, toasted coconut and hazelnut. The luscious
finish is loaded with spice and cocoa details. Seductive.
Drink now. 4,000 cases imported.—K.M.
92 Quinta das Carvalhas Vintage Port 2013 $60
Features plenty of grip to the blackberry, dark plum and
raspberry flavors, loaded with Asian spice notes. Hints of
dried mint show on dark chocolate–filled finish. Best from
2020 through 2030. 2,000 cases made.—K.M.
92 Sandeman Tawny Port 40 Year Old NV $140
A rich and smoky style, with plenty of roasted, nutty notes
to the dried plum and cherry tart flavors. The powerfully
spicy finish shows tangerine and dried apricot accents.
Drink now. 200 cases imported.—K.M.
91 Sandeman Tawny Port 10 Year Old NV $30
Rich and supple, offering creamy flavors of hazelnut,
Christmas pudding and ripe cherry, with cocoa powder
notes. Lush and spicy on the long, ripe finish. Drink now.
1,800 cases imported.—K.M.
90 Delaforce Tawny Port 20 Year Old Curious
& Ancient NV $60 Features loads of slate and flinty
accents to the butterscotch, hazelnut and creamy white
fruit flavors. Hints of pepper linger on the crisp finish.
Drink now. 2,000 cases made.—K.M.
90 Real Companhia Velha Late Bottled Port
Royal Oporto 2011 $20 Rich and juicy, this is loaded
with dark cherry and plum tart flavors, showing plenty of
chocolate accents that linger on the finish alongside firm
minerality. Drink now. 3,000 cases made.—K.M.
89 Delaforce Tawny Port 10 Year Old His
Eminence’s Choice NV $30 Fresh and minerally,
with plum tart and cherry pie flavors that feature some
tangerine hints. Sea salt and flint details show on the fin-
ish. Drink now. 3,500 cases made.—K.M.
89 Osborne Late Bottled Port 2010 $24 Fruity,
featuring flavors of raspberry jam and chocolate mousse,
with fresh minerality. Hints of dried green herbs and ce-
dar show on the finish. Drink now through 2022. 5,000
cases made.—K.M.
SEPT. 30, 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 137

SOUTH AFRICA
Cabernet Sauvignon & Blends
93 de Trafford Elevation 393 Stellenbosch 2009
$100 Mature, with coffee, roasted vanilla, dark earth
and smoldering tobacco leaf notes leading to a solid core
of dark currant, plum and blackberry fruit, well-mulled
and lined with olive and black tea accents. A long, sweet
cedar detail lets the finish glide. Cabernet Sauvignon,
Merlot, Shiraz and Cabernet Franc. Drink now through
2021. 20 cases imported.—J.M.
92 de Trafford Cabernet Sauvignon Stellen-
bosch 2011 $50 Enticing, with a mix of singed bay,
dark olive, savory and tobacco notes inlaid into the core
of macerated black cherry and black currant fruit. A long
loamy spine carries the finish. Latent acidity lets every-
thing stretch out. Drink now through 2021. 224 cases
imported.—J.M.
92 Neil Ellis Cabernet Sauvignon Jonkershoek
Valley Vineyard Selection 2012 $44 Dark and
winey, showing good energy as mouthwatering bramble
and savory notes race through the core of dark currant
and blackberry pâte de fruit flavors. Reveals a strong
graphite edge on the finish, with an echo of singed bay
adding range. Still has some unwinding to do. Drink now
through 2020. 60 cases imported.—J.M.
92 Ernie Els Cabernet Sauvignon Stellenbosch
2013 $24 Offers a dark, alluring profile, with lots of
warm charcoal and tobacco notes followed by steeped
black currant and blackberry fruit flavors. The long, loamy
spine pulls everything together. A savory echo extends
the finish. Best from 2017 through 2022. 2,504 cases
made.—J.M.
92 Anthonij Rupert Coastal Region 2009 $135
Broad-shouldered and dense, with a copious but polished
structure that allows the dark mulled fig, plum and boy-
senberry fruit flavors to glide along. Loam and bittersweet
cocoa notes fill in the background. Relies a bit more on
power than purity, but remains appealing nonetheless.
Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit
Verdot. Drink now through 2020. 500 cases made.—J.M.
92 Rust en Vrede Stellenbosch 2013 $48 Warm
cocoa and coffee notes lead the way for a fleshy core of
black currant and blackberry confiture. The long, loamy
finish maintains a dark profile without losing definition.
Latent grip emerges steadily. Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz
and Merlot. Best from 2017 through 2022. 3,607 cases
made.—J.M.
91 Delaire Graff Cabernet Sauvignon Stellen-
bosch Reserve 2013 $65 A solid old-school version,
with lots of tobacco leaf and singed cedar notes out front,
backed by a core of warm currant confiture that gives way
to olive, bay and juniper accents on the finish. Drink now
through 2020. 375 cases made.—J.M.
90 Constantia Glen Five Constantia 2011 $44
Mature, but still has a fleshy edge to the lightly mulled
plum and dark cherry notes, while mint, cinnamon, singed
cedar and warm tobacco leaf hints emerge steadily through
the fine-grained finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pe-
tit Verdot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. Drink now
through 2018. 1,500 cases made.—J.M.
90 Delaire Graff Botmaskop Stellenbosch 2013
$28 This has depth but stays on the elegant side, with
sleek mineral and sanguine notes adding a glistening
effect to the core of lightly steeped black cherry and plum
fruit. Lovely loam and tobacco details echo through the
finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot,
Petit Verdot and Malbec. Drink now through 2020. 2,273
cases made.—J.M.
90 Klein Constantia Constantia Red 2014 $27
A ripe, polished style, with a suave core of currant, cherry
and plum confiture notes inlaid with light mocha and singed
vanilla notes. Enticing through the finish, in a fruit-forward
way. Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Shi-
raz. Drink now through 2020. 5,000 cases made.—J.M.
138 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. 30, 2016
New Releases: South Africa
90 The Stellenbosch Reserve Vanderstel
Stellenbosch 2012 $40 Graceful, featuring a mature
edge to the mix of mint, tobacco leaf and dried currant
notes that form the core, while hints of bay and singed
cedar fill in on the back end. Shows good old-school char-
acter, with a very fine-grained feel. Cabernet Sauvignon,
Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot. Drink now through
2019. 1,487 cases made.—J.M.
89 De Morgenzon Maestro Red Stellenbosch
2013 $25 This delivers a beam of red currant preserves
augmented by notes of singed spice and black tea, all al-
lied to a solid graphite spine that drives the finish. Cab-
ernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Malbec and
Cabernet Franc. Drink now through 2020. 112 cases
imported.—J.M.
87 KWV Roodeberg Western Cape 2014 $16
An elegant, herb-tinged style, with lightly mulled currant
and cherry notes mixed with savory and singed cedar ac-
cents, remaining supple through the finish. Cabernet Sau-
vignon, Shiraz, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Tannat and
Tempranillo. Drink now. 3,500 cases made.—J.M.
SOUTH AFRICA
Syrah & Blends
95 Porseleinberg Swartland 2014 $100 This
is loaded with layers of warm boysenberry, raspberry and
blackberry confiture, stretching out over a well-embedded
iron note and picking up anise, violet and juniper details
along the way. Dense, lithe and seriously long. Impressive.
Syrah. Best from 2017 through 2025. 500 cases made.—J.M.
94 Porseleinberg Swartland 2013 $95 This has
a core of raspberry, boysenberry and blackberry fruit wait-
ing to burst out, harnessed for now by graphite-edged grip.
Loads of black tea, violet and anise details fill in the back-
ground, while the finish ripples with acidity. Youthfully
coiled, showing superb energy throughout. Syrah. Best
from 2018 through 2027. 420 cases made.—J.M.
93 Cirrus Syrah Stellenbosch 2012 $43
Gorgeously ripe and still very youthful, with succulent
boysenberry, raspberry and plum pâte de fruit flavors cours-
ing along, laced with anise, black tea and warm fruitcake
notes. Squarely in the hedonistic camp, but shows ample
energy and definition. Drink now through 2022. Tasted
twice, with consistent notes. 1,002 cases made.—J.M.
92 Anthonij Rupert Syrah Franschhoek 2009
$80 Mature, featuring menthol and coffee aromas out
front, followed by steeped plum, blackberry and boysen-
berry confiture notes. Fleshy and broad, with smoldering
charcoal and tobacco details on the finish, exhibiting an
old-school twinge. Drink now through 2019. 417 cases
made.—J.M.
92 Rust en Vrede Syrah Stellenbosch Single
Vineyard 2012 $97 A ripe, polished, layered style,
with fig, boysenberry and blackberry fruit flavors all pump-
ing through, lined with ample Black Forest cake and black
licorice notes. Has cut and drive through the finish, with
a nice savory streak imparting balance and length. Drink
now through 2022. 252 cases made.—J.M.
92 Rudi Schultz Syrah Stellenbosch 2014 $30
This is warm and inviting, with a range of açai berry, blue-
berry, plum and boysenberry fruit flavors that are wonder-
fully melded, gliding over anise and black tea notes. Offers
a polished feel. Not shy on depth or length. Drink now
through 2020. 250 cases imported.—J.M.
92 Spice Route Malabar Swartland 2012 $74
A lush, broad, fruit-driven style, with steeped fig, warm
boysenberry reduction and dark licorice notes melded to-
gether and carried by a long finish of mocha and Christ-
mas pudding. Not shy in style, but pulls it off. Syrah,
Mourvèdre, Carignan and Petite Sirah. Drink now
through 2020. 215 cases made.—J.M.
92 Stark-Condé Syrah Jonkershoek Valley
Three Pines 2013 $41 Rock-solid, with a core of dark
plum, blackberry and black currant notes melding with
bittersweet cocoa, tobacco and singed alder details through
the finish. Reveals a buried graphite spine. This should
unwind nicely with a bit of cellaring. Drink now through
2020. 150 cases imported.—J.M.
91 Keermont Syrah Stellenbosch 2012 $40
A ripe, lush style, with warm raspberry, boysenberry and
blackberry confiture flavors gushing forth, backed by black
licorice and singed apple wood notes. Has the spine for
balance, but this is aimed at the fruit-bomb crowd. Drink
now through 2020. 466 cases made.—J.M.
91 Rust en Vrede Syrah Stellenbosch 2013 $29
A fresh, racy style, with perfumy lift to the core of rasp-
berry and damson plum fruit, along with enticing tea,
singed apple wood and red licorice notes. Stays tightly
focused through the finish, showing mouthwatering acid-
ity. Drink now through 2020. 4,050 cases made.—J.M.
90 Anwilka Petit Frère Stellenbosch 2013 $22
Ripe and well-built, with layers of fig, boysenberry and
plum sauce gliding over an ample, polished structure. The
long finish lets mocha, fruitcake and melted black licorice
notes fill in. An obvious style, but not at all heady. For
the hedonist camp. Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit
Verdot. Drink now through 2019. 7,500 cases made.—J.M.
90 Tania & Vincent Carême Terre Brûlée Le
Rouge Swartland 2015 $16 Lovely, with a core of
ripe boysenberry, damson plum and bitter cherry fruit offset
by light pepper, alder and singed savory notes. The sleek,
sanguine-edged finish has latent drive. Shiraz and Cinsault.
Drink now through 2019. 356 cases imported.—J.M.
89 Trizanne Signature Wines Syrah-Grenache
Swartland 2014 $19 This delivers a solid core of plum
paste, blackberry confiture and warm fruitcake flavors,
backed by a subtle but persistent singed mesquite note,
all while staying understated in style. Drink now through
2018. 112 cases made.—J.M.
87 Boekenhoutskloof The Wolftrap Red
Western Cape 2015 $12 See Best Values, page 122.
86 Fairview Goats do Roam Red Western
Cape 2015 $10 See Best Values, page 123.
SOUTH AFRICA
Other
95 Klein Constantia Vin de Constance Constan-
tia 2012 $100/500ml Intense, with dried orange peel,
nectarine, apricot and kumquat notes laced with a vibrant
green tea edge. The long finish picks up a bitter almond
hint for added tension, while the unctuous fruit sails
through. This is still very youthful and densely packed, so
no rush at all. Muscat de Frontignan. Drink now through
2040. 200 cases made.—J.M.
94 Hamilton Russell Chardonnay Hemel-en-
Aarde Valley 2015 $37 See Highly Recommended,
page 119.
93 Hamilton Russell Pinot Noir Hemel-en-Aarde
Valley 2015 $50 Gorgeous, with a silky, persistent
and racy structure guiding alluring rooibos tea, blood
orange, damson plum and singed wood spice notes along.
An iron edge underscores the elegant finish. Already
approachable, but there’s no rush. Drink now through
2020. 1,300 cases imported.—J.M.
92 Beeslaar Wines Pinotage Stellenbosch 2014
$55 Lushly layered, with notes of boysenberry, blueberry
and blackberry preserves gliding through, carried by a pol-
ished structure and backed by mocha and dark licorice
notes. Unfurls steadily through the lengthy finish.
A lovely display of fruit. Drink now through 2021. 433
cases made.—J.M.
 New Releases: South Africa / Spain
92 Neil Ellis Grenache Piekenierskloof Vineyard
Selection 2011 $44 The mulled cherry and plum fruit
is woven with black tea, shiso leaf and white pepper notes,
all gliding through a silky finish. Lively, blood orange–
edged acidity keeps this fresh despite the extra bottle age.
Drink now through 2018. 100 cases imported.—J.M.
91 Neil Ellis Amica Jonkershoek 2014 $30
Shows a nice shortbread note, along with a core of lemon
curd, white peach and gooseberry gelée flavors. The bright,
floral-edged finish shows an echo of straw in the back-
ground. Sauvignon Blanc. Drink now through 2018. 100
cases imported.—J.M.
91 Kanonkop Pinotage Simonsberg-Stellen-
bosch 2014 $40 A juicy, racy style, with deliciously
pure plum and blackberry compote flavors enlivened by
an anise note that lingers through the finish. Features dark
fruit but remains bright and fresh in feel. Well done. Drink
now through 2020. 650 cases imported.—J.M.
90 de Trafford Cabernet Franc Stellenbosch
2012 $45 Alluring, with a fleshy edge to the lightly
macerated blackberry and black cherry fruit. The finish
is inlaid with subtle dark olive and smoldering tobacco
hints. Drink now through 2018. 28 cases imported.—J.M.
90 de Trafford Petit Verdot Stellenbosch 2012
$45 Ripe and fleshy, with dark currant and blackberry
fruit melded with smoldering tobacco, bay and bittersweet
cocoa powder details. Shows impressive range and depth
for what is normally a blending variety. Drink now through
2019. 28 cases imported.—J.M.
90 Keermont Terrasse Stellenbosch 2014 $27
Offers a ripe, rounded feel, with creamed melon, lemon
shortbread and white ginger notes forming the core and
leading to a long, verbena-filled finish. Modestly toasted
in the end, allowing the fruit to win out easily. Chenin
Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Viognier. Drink
now through 2018. 350 cases made.—J.M.
90 Raats Family Cabernet Franc Stellenbosch
2013 $40 Nicely detailed, with mouthwatering to-
bacco leaf notes leading the way, followed by bitter cherry,
dark currant and singed bay flavors. Reveals a whiff of
black tea through the finish, accompanied by a sanguine
echo. Loire fans will dig this. Drink now through 2018.
112 cases imported.—J.M.
90 Sijnn Touriga Nacional Malgas 2013 $35
Delicious blueberry and açai berry fruit bounces along,
with a juicy texture and a backdrop of cocoa and bramble.
A fun, hedonistic wine, showing ample energy. Drink now
through 2018. 56 cases imported.—J.M.
90 Southern Right Pinotage Hemel-en-Aarde
Valley 2015 $27 Offers bright purity uncommon for
the grape, featuring a beam of cassis and boysenberry fruit
lined with violet, licorice and blood orange hints. Deliv-
ers a fresh, racy finish. Drink now through 2017. 1,800
cases imported.—J.M.
90 Southern Right Sauvignon Blanc Walker Bay
2015 $19 See Smart Buys, page 122.
90 Waterkloof Sauvignon Blanc Stellenbosch
Circumstance 2015 $20 This packs some solid lemon
curd, white peach and gooseberry notes at the core, with
racy verbena, chamomile and fleur de sel accents on the
finish. The heft is matched by ample zip. Drink now
through 2018. 3,000 cases made.—J.M.
89 de Trafford Merlot Stellenbosch 2008 $40
Fully mature, with mint, bay and warm cocoa notes lead-
ing the way for a core of macerated plum and blackberry
flavors. Mint and cedar details hold sway through the fin-
ish. Decidedly old school, but still has subtle, alluring fruit
and a fine-grained structure Drink now through 2017. 56
cases imported.—J.M.
89 Doran Chenin Blanc Swartland 2013 $15
Inviting, with quince, lemon chiffon, white peach and
yellow apple flavors melded together, framed by a warm
brioche note that hangs on the finish. Drink now through
2017. 2,500 cases made.—J.M.
89 Kanonkop Kadette Stellenbosch 2014 $15
This has a core of tangy red currant and damson plum
flavors, with a sleek iron edge and lingering rooibos tea
hints. Solid grip. Pinotage, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot
and Cabernet Franc. Drink now through 2017. 3,250 cases
imported.—J.M.
87 KWV The Legend of Big Bill Western Cape
2014 $11 Lively cassis and bay notes bounce along,
with light, briary tannins and a dose of dark toast through
the finish. Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz.
Drink now. 8,000 cases made.—J.M.
SPAIN
Priorat
93 Clos Figueras Priorat Clos Figueres 2012
$60 Black cherry, mountain herb and spice flavors min-
gle with notes of mineral and loamy earth in this graceful,
energetic red. Balanced, with well-integrated tannins and
balsamic acidity. Finishes fresh and floral. Drink now
through 2022. 340 cases made.—T.M.
93 Álvaro Palacios Priorat Les Terrasses 2014
$40 See Highly Recommended, page 119.
90 Clos Figueras Priorat
Serras del Priorat 2014 $21
This balanced red shows focused fla-
vors of cherry, berry, vanilla and
mountain herb that mingle over
light tannins, refreshed by bright
acidity. Not muscular, but has good CHRISTOPHER CANNAN
energy. Drink now through 2020. & ANNE-JOSÉPHINE
CANNAN
1,600 cases made.—T.M. Owners & Winemakers
89 Clos Figueras Priorat Font de la Figuera 2013
$35 Firm and crisp, this red shows a savory, herbal
character, while a core of black cherry and licorice lends
balance. Smoke and mineral notes linger on the finish.
Drink now through 2021. 500 cases made.—T.M.
87 Cellers Unió Priorat Convey 2014 $17
A burst of berry and cherry flavors, accented by vanilla
and mountain herb, give this light red a juicy character.
Features light tannins and fresh acidity. Expressive. Drink
now through 2020. 15,000 cases made.—T.M.
SPAIN
Ribera del Duero
94 Bodegas Vega Sicilia Ribera del Duero Unico
2008 $410 Savory flavors of tobacco, mineral, smoke
and spice frame a core of cherry and pomegranate in this
red. Harmonious and graceful, supported by well-integrated
tannins and fresh acidity. Has deceptive depth and com-
plexity. Drink now through 2028. 437 cases imported.—T.M.
94 Bodegas Vega Sicilia Ribera del Duero Unico
Reserva Especial NV $500 This alluring red entices
with floral and spice aromas, deepening on the palate,
with plum, fig paste and loamy earth flavors. The tannins
are well-integrated, kept fresh by orange peel acidity. Not
muscular, but deep and complex. A blend of the 1996,
1998 and 2002 vintages. Drink now through 2026. 10
cases imported.—T.M.
93 Bodegas Arrocal Ribera del Duero Máximo
2010 $115 This aromatic red shows balsamic, hoisin
and fig paste notes, with mulled plum, coffee, tobacco and
meaty flavors that mingle over muscular tannins. Big and
bold, in a savory style. Drink now through 2025. 100 cases
made.—T.M.
SEPT. 30, 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 139

93 Bodegas Valduero Ribera del Duero 6 Años
Reserva Premium 2009 $90 The ripe plum and fig
flavors have a slightly jammy character in this rich red,
while orange peel acidity imparts balance. The plush tex-
ture has good density, with integrated tannins and a spicy
finish. Drink now through 2025. 1,276 cases made.—T.M.
92 Bodegas Hnos. Pérez Pascuas Ribera del
Duero Viña Pedrosa Gran Reserva 2010 $111 This
firm red delivers toast, cherry and herb flavors, balanced
and fresh. Muscular tannins support the round texture,
giving way to spicy, loamy notes on the finish. Drink now
through 2022. 498 cases made.—T.M.
92 Bodegas Vega Sicilia Ribera del Duero
Valbuena 5.° 2011 $195 Flavors of black cherry, kirsch
and orange peel mingle with anise, graphite and balsamic
notes in this focused red. Firm, yet harmonious and ener-
getic, in the traditional style. Drink now through 2026.
424 cases imported.—T.M.
92 Bodegas Y Viñedos Gallego Zapatero Ribera
del Duero Yotuel’ Finca de Valdepalacios 2009
$56 Round and ripe, this spicy red delivers warm flavors
of plum pudding, sandalwood, cigar box and dried herb, with
light, firm tannins and balsamic acidity. Not muscular, but
generous. Drink now through 2024. 92 cases made.—T.M.
91 Bodegas Viña Vilano Ribera del Duero
Crianza 2013 $26 This red shows a thick, muscular
structure, with muted flavors of blackberry, leafy, loamy
earth and mineral. Has good concentration, balance and
depth, but needs time to unwind. Best from 2017 through
2027. 7,000 cases made.—T.M.
90 Bodegas y Viñedos Alion Ribera del Duero
2012 $95 Cherry, raspberry and kirsch flavors show a
ripe character in this bright red, backed by citrusy acidity
and light, firm tannins. Well-balanced, fresh and lively.
Drink now through 2018. 570 cases imported.—T.M.
90 Bodegas Arrocal Ribera del Duero Ángel
2012 $55 This savory red shows focus and balance,
with woodsy, smoky and mineral notes framing a core of
berry and graphite, supported by balsamic acidity and firm
tannins. Reserved but deep. Drink now through 2022. 250
cases made.—T.M.
90 Bodega Matarromera Ribera del Duero
Crianza 2013 $33 Black cherry and blackberry flavors
form the core of this red, accented by cocoa, toast and
mineral notes. Firm tannins and orange peel acidity are
balanced, giving way to a spicy finish. Drink now through
2023. 60,000 cases made.—T.M.
90 Finca Villacreces Ribera del Duero Pruno
2014 $20 See Smart Buys, page 122.
89 Bodegas Arrocal Ribera del Duero Selección
2012 $42 Herbal, leafy and light earthy notes frame
bright cherry and berry flavors in this lively red. Features
light, firm tannins and fresh acidity. Straightforward, bal-
anced and energetic. Drink now through 2022. 1,000 cases
made.—T.M.
89 Bodega Dehesa de los Canónigos Ribera del
Duero Crianza 2013 $30 Plum and blackberry notes
mingle with smoky and meaty flavors in this thick red.
The muscular tannins are well-integrated, and the bal-
samic acidity keeps this balanced. A savory style. Drink
now through 2023. 6,666 cases made.—T.M.
89 Bodegas Alejandro Fernandez Ribera del
Duero Pesquera Crianza 2013 $35 Black cherry
and red plum flavors are fresh and lively in this juicy red.
Light, firm tannins and citrusy acidity keep this focused.
Balanced and energetic. Drink now through 2023. Tasted
twice, with consistent notes. 50,000 cases made.—T.M.
89 Valtostao Ribera del Duero Legón Crianza
2013 $23 Black cherry and plum flavors mingle with
leafy and licorice notes in this focused red. Features firm
tannins and bright acidity, showing a lean, angular char-
acter that should make this a refreshing match with food.
Drink now through 2021. 8,000 cases made.—T.M.
140 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. 30, 2016
New Releases: Spain
SPAIN
Rioja
93 R. López de Heredia Viña Tondonia Rioja
White Viña Tondonia Reserva 2003 $54 This
distinctive white is delicate yet expressive, with a lean
texture carrying lively flavors of dried apple, quince, wild-
flower, tarragon and vanilla. Fresh acidity carries herbal
and floral notes through the long finish. Drink now
through 2023. 1,666 cases made.—T.M.
92 Bodegas Roda Rioja Cirsion 2011 $330 This
red is dense yet graceful, with a good balance of fruit and
savory components. Plum, floral, tobacco, mineral and
smoky notes mingle over light, firm tannins, kept lively
by balsamic acidity. Drink now through 2026. 100 cases
imported.—T.M.
91 Bodegas Marqués de Murrieta Rioja Finca
Ygay Gran Reserva 2009 $80 Cigar box, sanguine
and loamy earth notes frame black cherry and anise fla-
vors in this savory red. Firm tannins give structure, while
balsamic acidity imparts freshness. Restrained but bal-
anced. Drink now through 2024. 20 cases imported.—T.M.
91 Bodegas Marqués de Murrieta Viura Rioja
Capellanía 2011 $29 A thick texture carries bold
flavors of coconut, almond, lanolin and vanilla in this
powerful white, framing a core of creamed pear and hon-
eydew. Has light tannic grip and enough acidity to stay
lively. Drink now through 2021. 92 cases imported.—T.M.
91 Bodegas Roda Rioja Reserva 2010 $56
Cherry, tea, tobacco and spice flavors mingle in this firm,
focused red. Shows good density and balance, with juicy
acidity and a spicy finish. Traditional style. Drink now
through 2025. 600 cases imported.—T.M.
90 Cia des Vinos del Atlántico Rioja La Antigua
Clásico Reserva 2008 $24 This supple red offers
dried cherry, tobacco, vanilla and toasted spice flavors in
a graceful texture, with light tannins and orange peel acid-
ity. Harmonious, in the traditional style. Drink now
through 2020. 1,500 cases made.—T.M.
90 R. López de Heredia Viña Tondonia Rioja
Viña Tondonia Reserva 2004 $51 Savory flavors of
tea, mushroom and leather frame dried cherry and orange
peel notes in this traditional-style red. Features a smooth,
polished texture, with light tannins and bright acidity.
Harmonious and graceful. Drink now through 2020.
21,666 cases made.—T.M.
90 Bodegas Marqués de Murrieta Rioja Dalmau
2012 $69 This generous red delivers ripe plum and
blackberry fruit, accented by dark chocolate and candied
orange peel notes. Firm tannins and lively acidity impart
structure. Expressive. Drink now through 2022. 58 cases
imported.—T.M.
90 Bodegas Benjamin de Rothschild & Vega
Sicilia Rioja Macán 2012 $90 Licorice and graphite
notes frame black cherry and dried herb flavors in this pol-
ished red. Not exuberant, but balanced, with harmony and
depth. Drink now through 2024. 230 cases imported.—T.M.
89 Bodegas Artevino Rioja Orben 2012 $30
Leafy and smoky notes frame black cherry and licorice
flavors in this savory red. A bit angular, but firm tannins
and crisp acidity impart a racy structure. Drink now
through 2020. 1,912 cases made.—T.M.
89 Pagos del Rey Rioja Castillo de Albai Crianza
2012 $14 This red shows reserved but harmonious
flavors of black cherry, forest floor, mineral and smoke,
supported by well-integrated tannins and balanced acid-
ity. Drink now through 2020. 50,000 cases made.—T.M.
88 Bodegas Izadi Rioja Reserva 2012 $19
Chewy tannins shadow plum, leafy and loamy earth
flavors in this sturdy red. Shows density, but remains a bit
austere. Decant. Drink now through 2022. 5,000 cases
imported.—T.M.
87 Dios Ares Rioja Crianza 2012 $15 Smoke,
tobacco and light earthy flavors lend a savory character
to this lean, silky red, with a core of cherry and berry.
Bright acidity keeps this juicy. Drink now through 2020.
12,500 cases made.—T.M.
SPAIN
Sherry
90 Delgado Zuleta Amontillado Jerez Dry NV
$16 Alluring singed almond and orange peel flavors lead
the way, followed by sesame, dried peach and walnut notes.
Gets drier through the finish, leaving a mouthwatering
feel. Drink now. 5,000 cases made.—J.M.
90 Delgado Zuleta Manzanilla Sanlúcar de
Barrameda La Goya NV $16/375ml Delightful, with
a bone-dry feel to the talc, honeysuckle, jicama and white
peach notes, backed by a long finish of salt and quinine.
Drink now. 5,000 cases made.—J.M.
90 Delgado Zuleta Pedro Ximénez Jerez NV
$25 Prune, raisin and toffee notes glide together, pick-
ing up hints of toasted sesame and buckwheat along the
way. Shows a flattering, unctuous edge through the finish.
Drink now. 5,000 cases made.—J.M.
89 Delgado Zuleta Manzanilla Sanlúcar de
Barrameda NV $16 Bright and pure, with jicama,
quinine and salted almond notes that race along, with a
piercing feel through the bony finish. Drink now. 5,000
cases made.—J.M.
89 Delgado Zuleta Manzanilla Sanlúcar de
Barrameda Goya XL En Rama NV $30/500ml
Features the dark yellow hue typical of en rama bottlings,
with lemon curd, dried lemon rind, nectarine and peach
pit notes giving way to a bitter almond edge on the fin-
ish. Shows range and character. For en rama fans rather
than Sherry newbies. Drink now. 100 cases made.—J.M.
89 Delgado Zuleta Oloroso Jerez Dry NV $16
Dried orange, date and green tea notes streak through in
this relatively light, piercing oloroso, ending with an
almond husk edge. Drink now. 5,000 cases made.—J.M.
89 Delgado Zuleta Palo Cortado Jerez NV
$30/375ml This has a tangy dry edge throughout, with
notes of orange zest, hazelnut, dried persimmon and
bitter almond stretching out. Flecks of green tea dot the
finish. Drink now. 500 cases made.—J.M.
SPAIN
Toro
92 Bodega Numanthia Toro Numanthia 2011
$55 Cola and balsamic notes accent plum, sanguine,
tobacco and licorice flavors in this savory red. Dense, with
muscular tannins and balsamic acidity, but the floral and
spicy finish shows some grace. Drink now through 2025.
6,500 cases made.—T.M.
92 Telmo Rodríguez Toro Gago 2013 $32
Thick, solid and balanced, this red delivers plum, cola
and tarry flavors. Ripe but savory, supported by muscular
tannins and balsamic acidity. Rich and a bit austere now,
but has depth. Decant. Drink now through 2028. 75 cases
imported.—T.M.
91 Bodegas y Viñedos Pintia Toro 2011 $65
Espresso and bitter chocolate notes frame flavors of plum
preserves, dried fig and anise in this dense red. Muscular
tannins and balsamic acidity reinforce the sturdy struc-
ture. Powerful and austere, but deep. Drink now through
2024. 570 cases imported.—T.M.
91 Telmo Rodríguez Toro Dehesa Gago 2014
$18 Black cherry, boysenberry, cola and mineral flavors
mingle in this ripe, lively red. The muscular tannins are
well-integrated, and citrusy acidity keeps this fresh. Expres-
sive. Drink now through 2025. 1,000 cases imported.—T.M.
 New Releases: Spain / UNITED STATES / California

90 Bodegas Ordoñez Toro Vatan 2013 $45
This rich red delivers a mouthful of ripe plum and
currant, with notes of cocoa and hazelnut balanced by
mineral and licorice. Plush and dense, in the modern style.
Drink now through 2023. 1,000 cases made.—T.M.
SPAIN
87 Adegas Gran Vinum Albariño Rias Baixas
Nessa 2015 $17 Ginger and leesy notes lend a savory
edge to this white, while firm acidity imparts focus. A core
of pear and citrus flavors adds fresh fruit to the balance.
Drink now. 8,000 cases made.—T.M.
87 Volver Alicante Tarima Blanco 2015 $9 This
round white is fruit-forward, with peach, Gala apple and
earth, juicy blackberry and wild berry. Drink now through
2022. 1,748 cases made.—J.L.
94 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir California 4-Barrel
2014 $125 Offers amazing aromas of wild berry, spice,
cedar, sage and underbrush, with a texture that highlights
the tenderness and strength of the tannins, sailing along
on a persistent finish. Drink now. 88 cases made.—J.L.

Other tangerine flavors. Citrusy acidity keeps this lively, fresh 94 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Santa Lucia
and balanced. Merseguera, Macabeo and Moscatel. Drink Highlands Rosella’s Vineyard 2014 $90 A
91 Bodegas Godeval Valdeorras Viña Godeval now. 2,500 cases made.—T.M. gorgeous version, ultrarich, supple and graceful, with
Cepas Vellas 2014 $20 See Smart Buys, page 121. plump plum, black cherry and wild berry flavors impart-
91 Jorge Ordoñez & Co. Málaga Old Vines 2011 ing mouthwatering juiciness and presence. Silky in tex-
$77/375ml Burnt caramel and candied orange flavors
United States ture, this is smooth and round, long and lingering. Drink
mingle with tangerine and spice flavors in this thick, sweet now through 2022. 840 cases made.—J.L.
white. Lively acidity imparts balance. Graceful and allur- CALIFORNIA 94 Walt(California) Pinot Noir Santa Lucia
ing. Drink now. 100 cases made.—T.M. Pinot Noir Highlands Sierra Mar 2014 $75 Though ultrarich
91 Bodegas y Viñedos Raúl Pérez Albariño Rias and loaded with deep, dark flavors, this maintains a grace-
Baixas Muti 2013 $37 This savory white is broad and
95 Boars’ View Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2013 ful balance and delicate presence, with detailed blackberry,
$125 Bold, rich and assertive, with lively acidity and a raspberry, mocha, black licorice, smoke, nutmeg and ce-
firm, showing briny, stony and tarragon notes that accent
tight, dense core of raspberry and blackberry, revealing rose, dar notes, ending with a long, persistent aftertaste that
a core of pear and ginger flavors. Harmonious and bal-
anise and spice scents. Supple, graceful and deep, this ends keeps reverberating. Drink now through 2022. 1,243 cases
anced, with a floral, minerally finish. Drink now through
with a long, rich aftertaste and a supple, caressing texture. made.—J.L.
2020. 264 cases made.—T.M.
Drink now through 2024. 948 cases made.—J.L.
91 Bodegas y Viñedos Raúl Pérez Mencía Bierzo 93 Arista Pinot Noir Mendocino Ridge 2014 $54
Ultreia Petra 2013 $108 This red offers bright cherry
95 Cirq Pinot Noir Russian River Valley Boot- Displays the finesse and nuance you hope for with Pinot,
legger’s Hill 2013 $125 A thrilling expression of featuring an intense core of savory herb, cherry and rasp-
and red plum flavors, with leafy and orange peel notes.
delicate, charming, understated elegance, this captures berry flavors amid the dusty, cedary oak shadings. The
Light tannins and citrusy acidity lend focus and liveliness.
moderately ripe plum and blueberry flavors with aromatic finish echoes spicy fruit and jazzy oak. Drink now through
Racy, energetic and expressive. Drink now through 2019.
rose petal aromas. Most impressive is the focus and deliv- 2023. 182 cases made.—J.L.
160 cases made.—T.M.
ery of flavor, which glides along, touching sweet spots and
90 Bodegas y Viñedos Raúl Pérez Mencía Bierzo lingering. Drink now through 2022. 694 cases made.—J.L. 93 Calera Pinot Noir Mount Harlan Jensen
Vico 2013 $33 Black cherry, leafy, tar and espresso Vineyard 2013 $88 Dense, with plum, blackberry and
flavors mingle in this savory red. Round yet firm, with a
94 Arista Pinot Noir Russian River Valley blueberry flavors, this firmly tannic version shows a sense
Longbow 2014 $60 Impressively styled, rich and of elegance and suppleness. Stylish and revealing new fla-
sleek texture fueled by crisp acidity. A bit austere, but bal-
polished, with uncommon depth and purity of flavors built vor nuances. Drink now through 2023. 1,071 cases
anced, with mineral and wild herb character. Drink now
around blackberry, plum, raspberry and blueberry, shaded made.—J.L.
through 2021. 836 cases made.—T.M.
by smoky, toasty oak and accented by hints of black tea
90 Bodegas y Viñedos Raúl Pérez Rias Baixas and spice. Sails along on the layered finish. Drink now. 93 Domaine Della Pinot Noir Russian River
Sketch 2014 $80 This bold white delivers ripe apple, 447 cases made.—J.L. Valley Keefer Ranch 2013 $70 This dark-hued red
dried pear, beeswax and chamomile flavors, set in a fleshy is rich in firm, juicy blackberry and wild berry notes, with
texture kept lively by citrusy acidity. Distinctive, showing
94 Arista Pinot Noir Russian River Valley good acidity keeping the flavors lively and zesty. Ends with
Mononi Vineyard 2014 $75 Exhibits dusty, savory rose petal, lavender and spicy berry scents and a persistent
good structure and complexity. Drink now. 100 cases
herb details and cedar-laced tannins that give the plum, finish. Drink now through 2022. 150 cases made.—J.L.
made.—T.M.
anise, black tea and wild berry flavors traction. The
90 Bodegas y Viñedos Raúl Pérez Ribeira Sacra seductive, licorice-scented oak gives this captivating 93 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Russian River
El Pecado 2013 $91 This red delivers lively flavors range. Drink now. 235 cases made.—J.L. Valley Cohn Vineyard 2014 $90 Rustic and edgy,
of cherry, kirsch, bitter greens and cola, with pretty floral with extracted, firmly tannic wild berry, cherry and earth-
and orange peel accents. The polished texture is supported
94 Cirq Pinot Noir Russian River Valley Tree- scented plum and blueberry flavors. Slow to unfold, but
house 2013 $125 Combining power and finesse, this impressive overall. Drink now through 2022. 88 cases
by light, firm tannins and citrusy acidity. Expressive.
is rich and extracted, with a supple yet gutsy core of min- made.—J.L.
Mencía, Caiño and Bastardo. Drink now through 2022.
eral-laced tannins that weave into a mix of gravelly, loamy
215 cases made.—T.M.
89 Bodegas Godeval Godello Valdeorras 2014
$15 Firm acidity supports juicy flavors of peach, quince
and lime in this expressive white. Mineral and fresh herb
notes add interest. Focused and lively. Drink now. 1,200
cases imported.—T.M.
89 Bodegas Ordoñez Montsant Zerran 2014 $18
This aromatic red delivers lively flavors of cherry, kirsch,
fresh herbs and vanilla in a creamy texture, supported by
well-integrated tannins and sweet-tart acidity. Generous
and lively. Garnacha, Mazuelo and Syrah. Drink now
through 2022. 2,000 cases made.—T.M.
89 Jorge Ordoñez & Co. Málaga Victoria 2014
$26/375ml This sweet white offers expressive flavors
of Seville orange, lychee, rose petal and coconut, set in a
smooth, rich texture, with just enough acidity to stay
lively. Drink now through 2020. 500 cases made.—T.M.
88 Jorge Ordoñez & Co. Verdejo Rueda Nisia
Old Vines 2015 $16 Pear, green almond and herbal
flavors mingle in this fleshy white. Firm acidity keeps this
focused, and the fruit shows depth and persistence. Drink
now. 5,000 cases made.—T.M.
87 Vicente Gandía Utiel-Requena Hoya de
Cadenas Reserva Privada 2012 $10 See Best
Values, page 123.

SEPT. 30, 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 141


93 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Russian River
Valley Keefer Ranch 2014 $90 Gushes with fresh,
snappy cherry, raspberry and wild berry flavors enlivened
by zesty acidity and firm, fine-grained tannins. Offers a
juicy, supple texture and striking velocity to the fruit fla-
vors. Drink now through 2022. 1,659 cases made.—J.L.
93 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Santa Lucia High-
lands 2014 $68 Like walking through a rose garden,
this offers exotic, perfumed scents. Starts out elegant and
understated but gains depth and complexity, fanning out
with black licorice, dusty earth and dried herb flavors that
highlight the zesty raspberry fruit. Drink now. 2,286 cases
made.—J.L.
93 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Santa Lucia High-
lands Garys’ Vineyard 2014 $90 Plump and supple
up front, with plum and black cherry flavors. Gains firm-
ness and backbone, featuring detailed, fine-grained tan-
nins that shade the earth and anise notes. Drink now. 552
cases made.—J.L.
93 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Santa Lucia High-
lands Pisoni Vineyard 2014 $90 Plump and gener-
ous, with lively, delicate, earth- and gravel-laced plum
and black cherry flavors, gaining a spicy quality and firm-
ing with fine-grained tannins on the aftertaste. Drink now.
175 cases made.—J.L.
93 Peter Michael Pinot Noir Santa Lucia High-
lands Le Moulin Rouge 2014 $100 A graceful,
refined style that captures suppleness and finesse. Charm-
ing, delivering elegant plum and wild berry flavors. Most
impressive for the subtle structure and delivery. Drink now
through 2022. 526 cases made.—J.L.
93 Roar Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands
Rosella’s Vineyard 2014 $60 A seductive style, with
fleshy plum, cherry, raspberry and floral notes. Maintains
a graceful presence through the finish, gaining a little tan-
nic flex on the aftertaste. Drink now. 643 cases made.—J.L.
93 Testarossa Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands
Rosella’s Vineyard Single Vineyard Series 2014
$64 Pure and snappy, with dusty earth, juicy plum and
raspberry flavors, accented by notes of spice, cedar and
anise. Broad and expansive midpalate, gaining traction
from the fine-grained tannins. Drink now through 2022.
384 cases made.—J.L.
92 Argot Pinot Noir Sonoma County A Bastard
Tongue Cuvée 2013 $70 Smoky oak is present
throughout, adding flavor and texture, imparting a vanilla
bean character to the lively raspberry and cherry core.
The tannins are firm but don’t dominate. Drink now. 150
cases made.—J.L.
92 Arista Pinot Noir Anderson Valley Ferrington
Vineyard 2014 $70 Though marked by dusty, savory
herb and cedar notes, the intense fruit core rises to the
occasion, fanning out and extending to gravelly earth and
snappy berry flavors. The finish brings the elements to-
gether in a tightly focused presentation. Drink now. 258
cases made.—J.L.
92 Arista Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 2014
$54 Generous, from the light smoky and toasty aromas
to the core of strawberry, raspberry, plum and blackberry.
Offers depth, persistence and length. Drink now. 2,174
cases made.—J.L.
92 Arista Pinot Noir Russian River Valley Toboni
Vineyard 2014 $68 Smoky, charry oak imparts aroma
and flavor, overshadowing the ripe plum and wild berry
notes. Ultimately, the elements fold together, creating a
complex character that gains on the palate. Drink now.
262 cases made.—J.L.
92 Arista Pinot Noir Russian River Valley UV -
Lucky Well Vineyard 2014 $75 Lightly aromatic,
with lavender, wilted rose and light wild berry and blue-
berry scents. More authoritative on the palate, maintain-
ing an elegant, understated profile while gaining depth
and persistence. Drink now. 256 cases made.—J.L.
142 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. 30, 2016
New Releases: California
92 Aston Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2014 $65
Exotic plum and blackberry notes give this a distinct fla-
vor profile that’s supple and graceful, yet understated at
this point. Should extend in range and complexity with
time. Drink now through 2022. 800 cases made.—J.L.
92 Calera Pinot Noir Mount Harlan Mills
Vineyard 2013 $62 Medium-weight, with a firm, tan-
nic start and modest red berry and tea flavors, gaining com-
plexity and depth while maintaining delicacy and restraint.
Ends clean and elegant. Drink now. 774 cases made.—J.L.
92 Calera Pinot Noir Mount Harlan Reed
Vineyard 2013 $70 Firm and spicy, with floral and
wilted rose scents and a core of chalky, dusty earth. The
core of red and dark berry fruit rises to the forefront and
gains depth and persistence. Most impressive on the long
and layered aftertaste. Drink now through 2022. 346 cases
made.—J.L.
92 Calera Pinot Noir Mount Harlan Selleck
Vineyard 2013 $95 An exuberant style, offering an
expressive mix of zesty blackberry and wild berry fruit,
offering alluring floral scents of violet and spice. Holds
focus and glides along gracefully on the finish, where the
tannins give the flavors traction. Drink now through 2022.
317 cases made.—J.L.
92 Chalone Pinot Noir Chalone Heritage Vines
2013 $35 Deep, rich and full-bodied, offering dark
berry, blackberry, plum, spice and tea scents. The acidity
and tannins impart structure. Ends with a long, full finish
that reverberates with flavor. Drink now through 2022.
3,605 cases made.—J.L.
92 Cherry Pie Pinot Noir Sonoma County
Huckleberry Snodgrass 2014 $60 Starts out supple
and elegant, building to a focused beam of plum, black-
berry, black olive and loganberry flavors. Gains momen-
tum and persistence on the long, layered finish. Drink
now. 500 cases made.—J.L.
92 Cherry Pie Pinot Noir Sonoma County
Rodgers Creek 2014 $60 Openly fruity and friendly
to drink, with a supple core of black cherry, plum and wild
berry flavors that are rich and polished, tapping into notes
of smoky, toasty oak, anise, floral and spice. Gains depth,
persistence and length. Drink now. 500 cases made.—J.L.
92 Hahn Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands SLH
2014 $30 The texture is plush, with lots of complex
flavors, ranging from plum to anise to dusty, cedary oak.
Satisfying from start to finish, ending with dusty, nutmeg-
scented tannins. Drink now. 26,500 cases made.—J.L.
92 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Russian River
Valley Giusti Ranch 2014 $90 Brimming with rich,
juicy wild berry and blueberry fruit, shaded by firm, dusty,
hazelnut-scented tannins, this ends snug and tannic, yet
the depth and persistence are evident. Drink now through
2022. 768 cases made.—J.L.
92 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Russian River
Valley Koplen Vineyard 2014 $90 Begins restrained
but expands, gaining velocity and depth, with gravel-laced
tannins and supple plum and black cherry flavors. Impres-
sive for the delicate aftertaste. Drink now through 2022.
744 cases made.—J.L.
92 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast
Kanzler Vineyard 2014 $90 The purity and brilliance
of the plum and raspberry fruit rises to the occasion, giving
this depth, complexity and persistence. Presents a supple
texture amid the pleasant weave of savory touches. Drink
now. 648 cases made.—J.L.
92 Lucia Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands 2014
$45 A supple, understated style that’s not without
intensity and range. Woody nutmeg scents fold in with
the spicy tannins, making this a wine of immediate
appeal. Drink now. 940 cases made.—J.L.
92 Lucia Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands
Garys’ Vineyard 2014 $60 Offers notes of baking
spices, with dusty, loamy tannins and a generous core of
wild berry and raspberry flavors. The tannins on the fin-
ish impart a sandy texture and good length. Drink now.
580 cases made.—J.L.
92 Lucia Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands
Soberanes Vineyard 2014 $60 Dusty, loamy
tannins give this a grainy texture, yet the flavors flow
freely, with well-distributed anise, underbrush, cedar and
wild berry notes. Drink now. 325 cases made.—J.L.
92 MacMurray Ranch Pinot Noir Russian River
Valley Reserve 2014 $43 Centered on juicy plum,
cherry and raspberry flavors that move from supple to firm,
this offers fine-grained tannins that add texture and trac-
tion. Ends with a mix of floral and anise notes. Drink now.
2,400 cases made.—J.L.
92 Patz & Hall Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands
Pisoni Vineyard 2013 $90 A rich, robust style, with
deep dark berry and red berry fruit that flirts with the
jammy side. Highlighted by opulent blackberry and blue-
berry notes, this finishes long and persistent. Drink now.
752 cases made.—J.L.
92 Reata Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands
Rosella’s Vineyard 2014 $55 Well-built, with acid-
ity and tannins giving this a structured framework amid
a core of earth- and spice-laced raspberry and plum fla-
vors. Ends lean, detailed and persistent. Drink now. 380
cases made.—J.L.
92 Roar Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands
Soberanes Vineyard 2014 $52 Chewy licorice notes
commingle with ripe plum and raspberry flavors in this
supple and floral version. Tight, firm and closed now, this
will be worth the wait. Drink now. 297 cases made.—J.L.
92 Walt(California) Pinot Noir Sta. Rita Hills
Clos Pepe 2014 $75 Broad, rich and expansive, with
a deep core of wild berry, blueberry, spice, pepper and ber-
gamot orange, showing subtle earthy shadings. Tightens
on the finish but is easy to drink now and sure to gain.
Drink now. 682 cases made.—J.L.
91 Brewer-Clifton Pinot Noir Sta. Rita Hills 3D
2014 $80 A supple, graceful style that builds on a core
of spicy, tea-scented plum and blueberry flavors, gaining
depth and nuance. Most impressive on the elegant, re-
fined finish. Drink now. 192 cases made.—J.L.
91 Brewer-Clifton Pinot Noir Sta. Rita Hills
Hapgood 2014 $95 A bit unwieldy now, with the
tannins overshadowing the plum, blueberry and raspberry
flavors. Eventually finds a nice gliding altitude, turning
delicate and tender. Drink now. 192 cases made.—J.L.
91 Calera Pinot Noir Mount Harlan de Villiers
Vineyard 2013 $52 Builds richness, depth and inten-
sity, with cherry, blackberry and plum notes amid chalky
accents. Flexes some tannic muscle on the finish, where
the flavors gain depth and persistence. Drink now through
2023. 993 cases made.—J.L.
91 Failla Pinot Noir Sonoma
Coast Pearlessence Vineyard
2014 $58 An elegantly styled
Pinot, with a dusty, minerally edge
amid the rich dark berry and licorice
shadings. This is a complex and
compelling effort. Drink now. 234 EHREN JORDAN
cases made.—J.L. Owner & Winemaker
91 Failla Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Whistler
Vineyard 2014 $58 Presents a rich, supple, fruity
expression of wild berry and blackberry flavors, with wilted
rose, lavender, violet and subtle earth shadings. Firms
nicely, revealing a delicate aftertaste. Drink now. 227 cases
made.—J.L.

91 Friedeman Pinot Noir Russian River Valley
UV Lancel Creek Vineyard 2014 $50 Vivid, juicy
blackberry, blueberry and wild berry flavors offer tight
focus. Ends on a floral spicy note that lingers delicately
before the tannins firm up. Drink now. 85 cases made.—J.L.
91 Hyde Pinot Noir Napa Valley Carneros Hyde
Vineyards 2013 $65 Builds intensity and gains depth,
from a youthful core of mineral- and sage-laced red berry to
touches of anise, cedar and red plum, accented by hints of
mocha. A good bet to gain. Drink now. 550 cases made.—J.L.
91 Kistler Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 2014
$60 Well-structured, with dusty, loamy earth–tinged
tannins and a supple core of plum and raspberry. Scores
points for snappy acidity and balance, ending with a min-
erally aftertaste. Drink now. 2,537 cases made.—J.L.
91 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Russian River
Valley 2014 $68 Smooth and inviting, offering charm-
ing flavors of wild berry, blueberry, spice and cedar. Supple
in texture, long and lingering on the finish. Drink now.
6,859 cases made.—J.L.
91 Laetitia Pinot Noir Arroyo Grande Valley
Reserve du Domaine 2013 $42 Complex from the
first scent, this offers an impressive mix of deep, elegant
black cherry and blackberry fruit, with shades of cedary
oak and savory underbrush. Ends with tiers of flavor. Drink
now. 2,800 cases made.—J.L.
91 Lando Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2014 $42
The core of plum, cherry, raspberry and blueberry is rich
and deep, unfolding in a harmonious way, joined by fine-
grained, graphite-scented tannins. The flavors clamp
down on the finish. Drink now. 575 cases made.—J.L.
91 Lucie Pinot Noir Russian River Valley
Bacigalupi Vineyard 2014 $60 This slowly builds,
gaining depth and richness, with an elegant, strawberry-
scented beginning leading to ripe plum and cherry flavors
supported by firm, fine-grained tannins. Good length.
Drink now. 169 cases made.—J.L.
91 Martinelli Pinot Noir Russian River Valley
Lolita Ranch 2014 $68 Begins sleek and spicy, with
black tea–laced tannins leading to juicy wild berry, anise
and cherry flavors. Ends dusty and earthy. Drink now. 410
cases made.—J.L.
91 Peter Michael Pinot Noir Fort Ross-Seaview
Le Caprice 2014 $115 Deceptively complex, slow to
build but does so impressively, with a core of plum, blue-
berry, raspberry, tea and floral notes gaining traction and
density, lingering on the finish. Drink now through 2021.
1,005 cases made.—J.L.
91 Mount Eden Pinot Noir Santa Cruz Mountains
2013 $62 Offering different shades of plum and cherry
flavors, this is floral and spicy, picking up a smoky, toasty
nuance on the aftertaste that puts the inherent elegance
here on full display. Drink now. 1,066 cases made.—J.L.
91 Occidental Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast SWK
Vineyard 2013 $100 A charming expression of vi-
brant, delicate Pinot Noir, with juicy acidity and supple
blackberry, plum and wild berry flavors that subtly rever-
berate. Ends with a long, pure finish. Drink now. 1,046
cases made.—J.L.
91 Roar Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands Pisoni
Vineyard 2014 $68 Notes of baking spices, nutmeg
and cinnamon add dimension to the delicate plum and
wild berry flavors, held in check by dusty, cedary tannins.
Drink now. 308 cases made.—J.L.
91 Scherrer Pinot Noir Sonoma County 2012
$36 A delicate, fleshy style, showing fresh, juicy raspberry
and wild berry flavors, with subtle anise and light earth
shadings, a loamy edge and a lingering watermelon and
cherry aftertaste. Drink now. 700 cases made.—J.L.
New Releases: California
91 Sojourn Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Ridgetop
Vineyard 2014 $59 Offers a complex, expansive ex-
pression of raspberry, blueberry and wild berry flavors, ca-
ressing and gaining depth and nuance. Most impressive
on the finish, where the plummy flavors shine. Drink now.
250 cases made.—J.L.
91 Sonoma-Loeb Pinot Noir Russian River
Valley Dutton Ranch 2014 $40 Slow to build, with
lighter plum, wilted rose and black cherry flavors giving
way to chewy, gravelly tannins that impart traction and
detail. Solid length. Drink now. 1,511 cases made.—J.L.
91 Walt(California) Pinot Noir Sta. Rita Hills
Rita’s Crown 2014 $75 Rich and layered, with an
expansive core of zesty wild berry, blueberry, anise, black
tea, violet and rose flavors. Ends with a long, graceful fin-
ish. Drink now. 1,366 cases made.—J.L.
90 Auteur Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2013 $45
Finds a groove between moderately rich wild berry, floral,
black licorice and spicy notes, ending with fine-grained
tannins that give the flavors traction. Drink now. 275
cases made.—J.L.
90 Brewer-Clifton Pinot Noir Sta. Rita Hills 459
2014 $95 Focused on ripe, earthy plum, black tea,
spice and sandalwood flavors, with an oaky element add-
ing structure and giving the wine traction on the finish.
Drink now. 192 cases made.—J.L.
90 Brewer-Clifton Pinot Noir Sta. Rita Hills
Machado 2014 $90 Taut and intense, with dusty rasp-
berry, fresh earth, cedar, tobacco and dried herb flavors.
Full-bodied and expansive, right down to the tea-laced
tannins. Drink now through 2022. 288 cases made.—J.L.
90 Cattleya Pinot Noir Russian River Valley
Cuvée Number One 2014 $50 Lightly aromatic yet
deceptively assertive, with zesty acidity sustaining the deli-
cate flavors of earth and wild berry. Ends with a charming
watermelon aftertaste. Drink now. 181 cases made.—J.L.
90 Chalone Pinot Noir Chalone Gavilan 2013
$22 See Smart Buys, page 121.
90 Cherry Pie Pinot Noir Napa Valley Stanly
Ranch 2014 $50 Fruit-driven, gushing with lively
plum, cherry and raspberry flavors, showing subtle shad-
ings of anise, mineral, herb and cedar. An easy-to-enjoy,
complex, ready-to-drink style, offering richness and flair.
Drink now. 6,000 cases made.—J.L.
90 Domaine Della Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast
2014 $60 Rich and flavorful, featuring tiers of blue-
berry, racy wild berry and raspberry flavors, with zesty,
edgy tannins that impart liveliness. The tannins veer into
grippy territory on the aftertaste, but there’s enough up-
front suppleness to the texture to balance this out. Drink
now through 2021. 200 cases made.—J.L.
90 EnRoute Pinot Noir Russian River Valley
Amber Ridge Vineyard 2014 $85 Direct and well-
focused on earth-laced plum and raspberry flavors, with
touches of dried lavender and wilted rose. Shows impres-
sive depth, elegance, refinement and grace. Drink now.
210 cases made.—J.L.
90 Goldeneye Pinot Noir Anderson Valley Split
Rail Vineyard 2013 $82 Though the texture is raw
and edgy, the flavors of plum, raspberry, smoke, licorice
and wild flowers are well-knit and persistent. Drink now.
350 cases made.—J.L.
90 Goldeneye Pinot Noir Anderson Valley The
Narrows Vineyard 2013 $82 Starts with a tight, rich
core of black licorice, dark berry and light oak and builds
from there, gaining depth and dimension. The flavors
weave together on the long, engaging aftertaste. Drink
now. 385 cases made.—J.L.
90 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast
2014 $68 Offers direct, rich and deep red and dark
berry flavors that are spicy, pleasantly tannic and chewy,
ending with a pure, rich burst of fruit that tails off into
drying tannins. Tasted twice with consistent notes. Drink
now. 6,935 cases made.—J.L.
90 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast
Gap’s Crown Vineyard 2014 $90 Supple and gen-
erous, with ripe plum and blackberry flavors, this is aro-
matic and delicate, enticingly friendly and easy to drink,
ending with fine-grained tannins. Drink now. 2,694 cases
made.—J.L.
90 Lazy Creek Pinot Noir Anderson Valley
Middleridge Ranch 2014 $48 This strikes a balance
between rich, vivid blueberry, wild berry and plum flavors
and smoky, toasty oak, ending with a long, deep finish
and a measure of elegance and finesse. Drink now. 418
cases made.—J.L.
SEPT. 30, 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 143

90 Lynmar Pinot Noir Russian River Valley Five
Sisters 2013 $100 Presents a juicy, succulent mix of
blackberry, licorice, blueberry and light cedary oak notes,
with a floral fragrance, depth and finesse. The ripe tan-
nins hold the flavors on the palate. Drink now. 107 cases
made.—J.L.
90 Masut Pinot Noir Eagle Peak Estate Vineyard
2014 $45 Packs in a tight core of spicy wild berry and
raspberry flavors, accented by hints of cinnamon, tea and
dusty earth. Fans out to capture black licorice and dried
sage details. Drink now. 1,800 cases made.—J.L.
90 Peter Michael Pinot Noir Fort Ross-Seaview
Clos Du Ciel 2014 $130 Marked an assertive woody,
toasty core, the fruit struggles to push through, with lico-
rice, blackberry, loamy earth and tarry notes. More agree-
able on the finish, where the flavors show better
integration. The better of two bottles tasted. Drink now.
522 cases made.—J.L.
90 Occidental Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Bodega
Headlands Vineyard Cuvée Elizabeth 2013 $100
Centered on a core of tart wild berry and blackberry
flavors, with gripping tannins imparting a bright fruit pro-
file and an edgy texture. Ends clean and pure, featuring a
persistent aftertaste. Drink now. 1,035 cases made.—J.L.
90 Occidental Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Occi-
dental Station Vineyard Cuvée Catherine 2013
$100 Straddles the line between snappy, zesty red and
dark berry flavors, with lively acidity and touch of mid-
palate suppleness. Dense yet elegant. Drink now through
2022. 496 cases made.—J.L.
90 Patz & Hall Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2014
$48 Intense and flavorful, with earth-scented anise and
red berry themes built on fine-grained tannins that impart
structure, focus and persistence. Drink now. 11,300 cases
made.—J.L.
90 Raen Pinot Noir Fort Ross-Seaview Home
Field 2014 $65 A stylish offering that is spicy and
floral, showing a touch of hazelnut and nutmeg amid the
core of snappy wild berry and minerally notes. The tan-
nins are firm and fine-grained. Drink now. 270 cases
made.—J.L.
90 Saintsbury Pinot Noir Napa Valley Carneros
Lee Vineyard 2014 $62 Combines richness with tex-
ture, as the supple core of cherry, plum and wild berry re-
veals backbone and focus. Picks up floral aromas, with
violet, jasmine and licorice details. Drink now through
2022. 313 cases made.—J.L.
90 Saintsbury Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Pratt
Vineyard 2014 $62 Exhibits a zesty, spicy mix of pep-
pery notes, with jazzy raspberry and dried herb details. At
points savory and dusty, this is also supple and caressing.
Drink now. 366 cases made.—J.L.
90 Scherrer Pinot Noir Russian River Valley King
Vineyard 2012 $46 A tender, delicate style, showing
some softness and mature plum and rose petal flavors. The
anise, dusty earth and sage notes are persistent. Drink
now. 340 cases made.—J.L.
90 Testarossa Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands
2014 $48 Complex and generous, offering a mix of
smoky currant, blueberry and wild berry flavors, with bak-
ing spice aromas and fine-grained tannins. There’s much
to be admired in this effort. Drink now. 2,400 cases
made.—J.L.
90 Testarossa Pinot Noir Santa Maria Valley
Sierra Madre Vineyard Single Vineyard Series 2014
$64 A smoky, toasty, charry oak presence adds to the
zesty plum and blueberry fruit. The tannins are grippy and
the wood lingers, but the finish reveals promising notes
of tart wild berry and raspberry. Drink now. 600 cases
made.—J.L.
144 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. 30, 2016
New Releases: California
90 Walt Pinot Noir Anderson Valley Blue Jay
2014 $40 There’s lots to admire in this rich, vibrant
offering, from the zesty, earth-laced raspberry and wild
berry to the snappy, penetrating acidity and tannins. On
the finish this pulls back a bit in focus, but the flavors
charge ahead. Should be better in a year. Best from 2017
through 2023. 2,800 cases made.—J.L.
89 Byron Pinot Noir Santa Maria Valley Sierra
Madre Vineyard 2013 $45 Smoky, toasty oak frames
the core of raspberry, cherry, plum and strawberry flavors,
adding up to a supple, silky, seductive style that caresses
the palate. Drink now. 212 cases made.—J.L.
89 Gypsy Canyon Pinot Noir Sta. Rita Hills The
Collector’s 2013 $110 An elegant, understated effort,
with plenty of backbone and structure, marked by dried
berry, plum and raspberry flavors and accents of savory
herb and underbrush. Ends with firm, ripe tannins and
pleasing length. Should gain. Drink now through 2021.
100 cases made.—J.L.
89 La Crema Pinot Noir Los Carneros 2013 $40
Medium-weight yet muscular, with a mix of spicy, earth-
scented wild berry flavors and brambly, black tea–infused
tannins that turn peppery, giving this a long, complex
finish. Drink now. 2,988 cases made.—J.L.
89 Lando Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 2014
$42 Trim, featuring a mix of plum and raspberry flavors,
with gripping tannins that need time to ease up. Ends with
snappy vibrancy and a minerally edge. Drink now. 625
cases made.—J.L.
89 Neyers Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Roberts
Road 2014 $45 Supple and generous. The fleshy plum,
wild berry, spice and floral scents make this easy to enjoy.
The tannic mix suggests a promising future. Drink now.
341 cases made.—J.L.
89 Sojourn Pinot Noir Russian River Valley
Wohler Vineyard 2014 $48 A lighter, more elegant
style, with a charming array of juicy plum, blueberry and
black cherry flavors, ending with minerally tannins that
bode well for the future. Drink now. 500 cases made.—J.L.
89 VML Pinot Noir Russian River Valley Limited
Release 2013 $35 Fans out to a broad, fleshy expanse
of dried fruit flavors, with plum, cherry and blueberry notes
that are delicate and understated, yet persistent. Drink
now. 2,800 cases made.—J.L.
88 Bonaccorsi Pinot Noir Sta. Rita Hills Melville
Vineyard 2013 $50 Well-oaked and well done, with
a prominent smoky, toasty wood presence that adds texture
and dimension to the elegant mix of cherry and raspberry
flavors. Drink now through 2021. 150 cases made.—J.L.
88 El Molino Pinot Noir Rutherford 2013 $70
Sleek and smoky, with a firm, trim band of zesty wild berry,
dried herb, anise and mineral notes. Ends with snappy
tannins and acidity. Drink now. 803 cases made.—J.L.
88 Laetitia Pinot Noir Arroyo Grande Valley
2014 $25 Weaves together a mix of zesty red berry and
creamy oak. The raspberry and black cherry flavors emerge
amid the smoke and toast details. Drink now. 20,000 cases
made.—J.L.
88 Rochioli Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 2014
$65 Makes a strong show of loamy earth, blackberry
and plum flavors up front, with shades of cedar, anise and
underbrush underneath. An elegant, pleasing style. Drink
now. 3,385 cases made.—J.L.
87 Byron Pinot Noir Santa Maria Valley Nielson
Vineyard 2013 $45 A potent smoky, woody presence
masks the modest mix of plum and berry flavors. An oak-
dominated effort that may benefit from bottle time. Drink
now. 1,900 cases made.—J.L.
87 Contour Pinot Noir Napa-Monterey-Sonoma
Counties 2013 $15 Exhibits a mix of dusty wild berry
fruit and brambly, black tea–accented tannins, displaying
an easy-drinking if rustic personality. Drink now. 3,000
cases made.—J.L.
CALIFORNIA
Other
89 Admirable Blanc & Blanc Santa Barbara
County 2014 $49 The peach, melon and nectarine
flavors are ripe, fleshy and juicy, with good focus on the
finish, accented by peppery white flowers. Viognier and
Chardonnay. Drink now. 560 cases made.—M.W.
89 Joseph Carr Red Blend Rutherford 2012 $40
Focused and trim, with red currant and herb aromas and
well-structured flavors of cherry, bitter chocolate and
black olive. Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now
through 2026. 2,032 cases made.—T.F.
89 Dry Creek Sauvignon Blanc Dry Creek
Valley 2015 $18 The clean, vibrant lemon and lime
flavors are crisp and intense, with fresh herb and green
apple notes. A hint of green tea shows on the finish. Drink
now. 10,147 cases made.—M.W.
89 Kokomo Cuvée Sonoma County 2014 $26
This easygoing red blend is fun to sip, offering lively cherry
and spice aromas and supple flavors of red currant, black
olive and bittersweet chocolate. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon, Malbec, Grenache and Petite Sirah. Drink now
through 2022. 1,670 cases made.—T.F.
89 Lazy Creek Pinot Noir Anderson Valley Rosé
2015 $22 Bright rose petal and strawberry aromas open
to soft, supple watermelon and mineral flavors. Drink now.
831 cases made.—T.F.
89 Rock Wall Zinfandel Russian River Valley
Julie’s Vineyard 2014 $25 Plush and zesty, with
cherry pie aromas and appealing flavors of smoky red plum
and cracked pepper. Drink now through 2024. 511 cases
made.—T.F.
89 Saintsbury Chardonnay Carneros Sangia-
como Green Acres 2014 $46 Pithy citrus blossom
and tart white peach notes impart appealing vibrancy and
juiciness. Ends clean and lingering. Drink now through
2018. 293 cases made.—J.L.
89 Carol Shelton Zinfandel Mendocino County
Wild Thing Old Vine 2014 $19 Bold aromas of bri-
ary cherry and cracked pepper lead to zesty, easygoing fla-
vors of smoky raspberry, sage and licorice. A great value.
Drink now through 2024. 11,650 cases made.—T.F.
88 Pedroncelli Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley Rosé
Dry Signature Selection 2015 $12 A jammy Cali-
fornia style, with appealing raspberry and spice flavors.
Drink now. 1,800 cases made.—T.F.
88 Rancho Zabaco Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley
Sonoma Heritage Vines 2014 $18 A jammy, zesty
Zinfandel, with black raspberry, pepper and licorice fla-
vors. Drink now through 2025. 40,000 cases made.—T.F.
87 Ancient Peaks Merlot Santa Margarita Ranch
2013 $18 A solid Merlot, well-built, with appealing
notes of cherry, tomato leaf and cedar. Drink now through
2023. 4,790 cases made.—T.F.
87 Big Smooth Zinfandel California Old Vine
2014 $18 Soft and jammy, this is a fun quaff, offering
cherry and spice flavors. Drink now through 2024. 6,000
cases made.—T.F.
87 Kendall-Jackson Cabernet Sauvignon
Sonoma County Grand Reserve 2013 $30 The
tannins are assertive and dominant, with a savory tobacco
leaf presence amid dried berry and anise flavors. A cedary
oak note weighs in. Drink now. 50,000 cases made.—J.L.
87 Matchbook Tempranillo Dunnigan Hills Rosé
2015 $12 A fun quaff, with jammy notes of raspberry,
cherry and spicy caramel. Drink now. 1,867 cases
made.—T.F.
87 Plungerhead Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley Old
Vine 2014 $18 Zesty, if modest in scale, with accents
of dried cherry, licorice and pepper. Drink now through
2022. 3,000 cases made.—T.F.

87 Shannon Ridge Sauvignon Blanc Lake
County High Elevation Collection 2015 $19
A whiff of passion fruit adds some vibrancy to the citrus
and melon flavors, leading to a spicy, juicy finish. Drink
now. 12,500 cases made.—M.W.
87 Terra d’Oro Chenin Blanc-Viognier Clarks-
burg 2015 $16 A juicy, appealing mix of apricot and
peach flavors, with a touch of apple blossom and white
pepper. Mouthwatering finish. Drink now. 5,000 cases
made.—M.W.
87 Terra d’Oro Pinot Grigio Santa Barbara
County 2015 $17 Apple blossom, melon and citrus
flavors are smooth and succulent, with a juicy, appealing
finish that shows lingering floral details. Drink now.
15,000 cases made.—M.W.
WASHINGTON
Cabernet Sauvignon & Blends
94 Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Colum-
bia Valley 2013 $140 Broad and expressive, layering
black cherry, plum, pear and black tea flavors into a beam
that focuses the finish against well-managed but present
tannins. This has depth, marvelous expression and length.
Best from 2018 through 2025. 3,705 cases made.—H.S.
93 Januik Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain
2013 $40 Supple and expressive, with well-tamped
tannins surrounding a glowing core of black cherry, guava
and rose petal notes that swirl together into a long, gen-
erous finish. Best from 2018 through 2025. 187 cases
made.—H.S.
92 Baer Callisto Columbia Valley 2013 $39
Broad, generous and open-textured, with spicy, peppery
notes weaving through a core of currant and plum, linger-
ing gently on the expressive finish. Cabernet Sauvignon,
Syrah and Petit Verdot. Best from 2017 through 2023.
250 cases made.—H.S.
92 Carden Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia
Valley 2013 $44 Chewy and tangy, with a meaty edge
to the black cherry and coffee flavors, finishing with in-
tensity against moderately grippy tannins. Has presence
and a sense of deftness. Best from 2018 through 2023.
1,000 cases made.—H.S.
92 Fidelitas Optu Red Mountain 2013 $50
Broad, bright and refreshing, showing pure plum, black-
berry and currant aromas and flavors, riding into a long
and expressive finish. The peppery tannins are nicely in-
tegrated. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc
and Petit Verdot. Best from 2017 through 2023. 735 cases
made.—H.S.
92 Mark Ryan Dead Horse Red Mountain 2013
$55 Dense, rich and ripe, with firm tannins around a
pulsing core of tobacco-accented plum, currant, cherry
and spice flavors. Lingers with presence. Cabernet Sau-
vignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Best
after 2018. 1,800 cases made.—H.S.
91 Avennia Gravura Colum-
bia Valley 2013 $35 Broad and
generous, with prickly tannins stud-
ding a core of blackberry, currant
and plum, gliding into a long and
minty finish. Should benefit from
cellaring. Cabernet Sauvignon,
Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Best
from 2018 through 2023. 800 cases CHRIS PETERSON
& MARTY TAUCHER
made.—H.S. Owners & Winemakers
91 Avennia Sestina Columbia Valley 2013 $65
Firm in texture, with a taut grip of tannins underlining a
sharply focused beam of blackberry and currant flavors,
persisting against tar and mocha notes into a vibrant fin-
ish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc.
Best from 2017 through 2021. 500 cases made.—H.S.
New Releases: California / Washington
91 DeLille Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain
Four Flags 2013 $69 Firm and chewy, with a green
olive edge to the black cherry and rose petal flavors, com-
ing together harmoniously against formidable tannins on
the finish. Has presence and grace. Best from 2017 through
2023. 2,500 cases made.—H.S.
91 Januik Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven
Hills Champoux Vineyard 2013 $55 Broad and
expressive, with black cherry, licorice and cedar flavors
that come together harmoniously on the persistent finish.
Tannins grip but let the flavors through. Best from 2018
through 2021. 242 cases made.—H.S.
91 Leonetti Reserve Walla Walla Valley 2013
$150 Focused and expressive, wrapping the blackberry,
currant and floral notes in powdery tannins. The flavors
flow into a long and pointed finish. Cabernet Sauvignon,
Petit Verdot and Merlot. Best after 2018. 1,102 cases
made.—H.S.
91 Mark Ryan Cabernet Sauvignon Red Moun-
tain Lonely Heart 2013 $95 Dense and focused, with
a layer of crunchy tannins surrounding a core of blueberry,
currant and mocha flavors, coming together with a sense
of precision. Has presence and length. Best from 2018
through 2023. 215 cases made.—H.S.
WASHINGTON
Syrah
95 Horsepower Syrah Walla Walla Valley The
Tribe Vineyard 2013 $120 Supple, complex, open-
textured and refined, with bacon and black olive over-
tones to the plum and currant flavors, finishing with
harmony and precision. Has depth and refinement. Drink
now through 2023. 470 cases made.—H.S.
95 Two Vintners Syrah Walla Walla Valley Some
Days Are Stones Stoney Vine Vineyard 2013 $45
See Highly Recommended, page 119.
93 Force Majeure Syrah Red Mountain Ciel Du
Cheval Vineyard Collaboration Series II 2012 $65
This savory style stacks notes of smoked meat, gravy and
molasses over a generous core of dark plum and black
cherry flavors, coming together harmoniously against
refined tannins on the extensive finish. Best from 2018
through 2023. 200 cases made.—H.S.
93 Isenhower Syrah Yakima Valley Dutchman
Vineyard 2013 $34 Supple, velvety and expressive,
layering the plum, currant and white pepper flavors with
bay leaf and floral notes. Finishes with a lovely sense of
purity and class. Drink now through 2022. 173 cases
made.—H.S.
92 Force Majeure Syrah Red Mountain Parabel-
lum 2013 $45 Rich and expressive, with aromatic
notes of blackberry, cherry, cedar and sassafras that play
on the palate against formidable tannins. Comes together
seamlessly on the finish. Needs cellaring to soften the
edges. Best after 2018. 150 cases made.—H.S.
92 Horsepower Syrah Walla Walla Valley Sur
Echalas Vineyard 2013 $120 Broad and expressive,
floating like a big balloon over lightly grippy tannins, with
earthy plum and spice flavors at the core. Finishes with a
strong meaty note. Drink now through 2023. 267 cases
made.—H.S.
92 Mark Ryan Syrah Red Mountain Wild Eyed
2013 $48 Firm, focused, dark and spicy, with smoky,
peppery, floral overtones to the dense blackberry and plum
flavors, meshing harmoniously on the chewy finish. Best
after 2019. 570 cases made.—H.S.
92 Three Rivers Syrah Walla Walla Valley
2013 $39 Dark berry, black tea and dried orange peel
flavors mingle harmoniously against nubby tannins in this
focused, expressively spicy Syrah, which offers presence
and complexity. Drink now through 2023. 142 cases
made.—H.S.
91 Dusted Valley Syrah Walla Walla Valley Tall
Tales Stoney Vine Vineyard 2013 $60 Firm and
focused, with a gorgeous beam of plum and guava flavors
playing against licorice and tar notes. Fine tannins under-
line the persistent finish. Drink now through 2021. 384
cases made.—H.S.
91 Kerloo Syrah Walla Walla Valley Les Collines
2013 $40 Tannins swarm over the dark plum and
blackberry flavors. Licorice and green olive notes add to
the interest as the finish locks in and keeps resonating.
Needs time in the cellar to soften the tannins. Best after
2018. 123 cases made.—H.S.
91 Nefarious Syrah Columbia Valley Rocky
Mother Vineyard 2012 $45 Lithe, supple and open-
textured, hanging the blueberry, dark plum and floral
flavors on a generous but relatively weightless frame.
Comes together harmoniously and lingers well. Drink now
through 2020. 174 cases made.—H.S.
WASHINGTON
Other
94 Horsepower Grenache Walla Walla Valley
Sur Echalas Vineyard 2013 $120 Deep and expres-
sive, offering rose petal–accented cherry, blackberry,
roasted lamb and black olive flavors that float over a richly
textured, open-weave structure. Finishes long and vibrant.
Drink now through 2021. 207 cases made.—H.S.
93 La Rata Walla Walla Valley 2013 $70
Polished, texturally compelling and layered with cherry,
orange peel and fresh herb notes, coming together seam-
lessly and lingering on the expressive finish. Grenache
and Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now through 2021. 115
cases made.—H.S.
92 Côte Bonneville Chardonnay Yakima Valley
DuBrul Vineyard 2013 $50 Sleek, polished, supple
and studded with almond-accented pear, pineapple and
floral flavors, picking up spicy notes as the finish lingers
easily. Borders on opulent, but gains balance at the end.
Drink now through 2020. 281 cases made.—H.S.
92 DeLille D2 Columbia Valley 2013 $49 Broad
and open-textured, with tannins surrounding a plush core
of green olive–accented dark plum, thyme and spice, lin-
gering easily on the undulating finish. Merlot, Cabernet
Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Best from
2017 through 2023. 8,750 cases made.—H.S.
92 Mercer Malbec Horse Heaven Hills Robert
Willis Reserve 2013 $55 Broad and expressive,
dripping with spicy plum, currant and cherry flavors, framed
by powdery tannins. The finish rolls on smoothly and har-
moniously. Drink now through 2021. 100 cases made.—H.S.
91 Avennia Valery Columbia Valley 2013 $50
Firm, broad and brimming with minerally character that
wends through rich blackberry and cherry flavors, finish-
ing with hints of cocoa and pepper. Complex and invit-
ing, but needs to shed the tannins with cellaring. Merlot
and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2019 through 2023. 175
cases made.—H.S.
91 Mark Ryan Long Haul Red Mountain 2013
$50 Dark and spicy, with pepper and licorice overtones
to the blackberry and dark plum fruit, coming together
harmoniously on the expressive, full-bodied finish. Firm
tannins give way to flavor. Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cab-
ernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Best from 2018 through
2023. 1,130 cases made.—H.S.
SEPT. 30, 2016 • WINE SPECTATOR 145

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146 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. 30, 2016
BUSI NE SS O PPO RTUNI TI E S
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 FAQ

WINE’S GOLDEN GIRL

Revered for centuries from the crus of Burgundy and Chablis, Chardonnay thrives from Australia to the United
States, and its friendly malleability lends it to everything from bright Champagnes to rich dessert wines.

IT IS WHAT YOU MAKE OF IT

Chardonnay’s great adaptability to climates warm and cool, and its versatility in the hands of
the winemaker, allow it to be made in a broad range of styles. In its ancestral home of Burgundy,
elegance and minerality are prized properties; in warmer New World regions like California and
Australia, richer, riper, more fruit-forward versions have prevailed.

DR. VINNY
Dear Dr. Vinny,
I miss the old “buttery” style of Chardon-
nay. What made them taste that way, and
how can I find wines like that today?
Apples of all colors, Tropical fruit flavors Cool-climate Chardon- Full malolactic conver-
—Lisa, Mount Pleasant, S.C. along with pears, are such as pineapple and nays such as Chablis are sion, yielding buttery
Dear Lisa, the most prominent fruit mango are typical of prized for their chalky popcorn aromas and
You’re right—many winemakers these days flavors associated with riper styles. minerality and seashell- flavors, was once the
have moved away from overtly buttery tones Chardonnay. like salinity. hallmark of New World
Chardonnays.
in their Chardonnays. Back in the 1990s,
there were plenty of what I called “movie-
theater popcorn” Chardonnays, and there are

FROM TOP TO BOTTOM: ISTOCK (4) ; ROBERT KAMAU/GC IMAGES; CODIE MCLACHLAN/GETTY IMAGES; CHRIS RATCLIFFE/BLOOMBERG/GETTY IMAGES; JEMAL COUNTESS/GETTY IMAGES PORTRAIT
still some out there!
Fa m o us Fa ce s o f a
That buttery flavor typically comes from
diacetyl, an organic compound that is a by-
Fa m o us Gra pe AMERICA’S SWEETHEART
Chardonnay is the most grown and most consumed
product of malolactic conversion, or ML (and Hip-hop mogul Jay Z likes wine in the United States, and we drink
sometimes referred to as “malolactic fermen- expensive things that bottlings from across the globe.
tation”). During ML, a benign bacterium con- sparkle—why would his
verts malic acid (like in tart green apples) into Chardonnay be any differ- ANNUAL CHARDONNAY PRODUCTION
ent? His Armand de Brignac
softer lactic acid (as in cream or butter). Some CALIFORNIA
Blanc de Blancs Champagne 718,000 tons
strains of bacteria produce more diacetyl than checks in at $675 a bottle.
others; winemakers can pick and choose ac- FRANCE
Hockey legend Wayne 530,000 tons
cording to the style they’re going for. If you’re
Gretzky retired from the ice to
looking for buttery Chardonnays, wines that AUSTRALIA
make ice wine, along with
have undergone a full malolactic conversion 375,000 tons
various styles of barrel-aged
are a great place to start. Aging wine in new Chardonnay from both ITALY
oak barrels can also impart some of the char- Canada and California. 200,000 tons
acteristics often associated with buttery Char-
CHILE
donnays, like caramel, toast and vanilla. British billionaire Richard 125,000 tons
WineSpectator.com members can go to our Branson has twice dabbled
in Chardonnay, first with SOUTH AFRICA
Wine Ratings search and get hundreds of re- 87,000 tons
California’s Virgin Vines and
sults for wines with the term “butter” in the
now at his South African ARGENTINA
tasting note. Also look for wines with other Mont Rochelle vineyard. 77,000 tons
descriptors that incorporate buttery notes,
Love those buttery California NEW ZEALAND
like “piecrust,” “pastry” or “brioche.” 32,000 tons
Chardonnays of yesteryear?
—Dr. Vinny Actress Gabrielle Union’s
Estimates based on 2014 figures from Wine Institute, INAO, Australian
Vanilla Puddin’ label has all
Bureau of Statistics, Italian Agriculture Census (2010), Wines of Chile
Dr. Vinny provides answers to all sorts of wine the caramel and butterscotch (2010), WOSA, FAS Buenos Aires, New Zealand Wine
questions, here and at winespectator.com. Submit you can fit in a wineglass.
your queries at www.winespectator.com/drvinny or
on Twitter via @AskDrVinny.

148 WINE SPECTATOR • SEPT. 30, 2016