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10 ae 11> Ne seeded jefe) Willett ts 282 pa daa i i eer 4We, I AWARD WINNING BANDSAWS POPULAR = 14" Deluxe Bandsaw 18" Bandsaw Model *10-325 Model “10-345 13" Re-Saw Capacity 12" Re-Saw Capacity Quick Release Blade Tension Quick Release Fence w/ Drift Adjustment 1¥e HP Motor 2¥ HP Motor 2 Speeds 1445/2950 fl/min 2 Speeds 1510/3220 ft/min Leam about these products and more at RIKOWN $3 :77-884-5167 POWER TOOLS How Do You Create WinA Endless Cabinet Door wip Fottaly! Contest Runs Aug. 1 to Deo. 31 me | Precisely the best. inclaatin, Exonded pe To find more information, please go to; ve" stock in angetdoors Others To sign up for Freud's e-mail newsletter or to find a dealer near you visit: ww. Exrererieeeneonant oven erey ee WQ@DCRAET magazine — Oct/Nov 2010 Featured Pro 20 Sawhorse Roundup Choose a folding sawhorse, the sturdy carpenter's workhorse, or the knockdown trestle horse to support work and tools in your shop or at the jobsite, 26 4 Shop-Made Handles Why buy knobs and pulls for projects having drawers and doors when you can make them? See how to machine Shaker and Arts & Crafts knobs, a traditional desk-drawer pull, anda contemporary u-shape pull. 33 Arts & Crafts Rocker Create the best seat in the house with this super-comfortable rocking chair. It features a curved back and an upholstered seat, along with builder-friendly joinery. 48 Curved-Top Veneered Box Making the impressive curved top and mating curved grooves may seem challenging, but it’s a snap using a simple bending form and a shop-made router fence. 20 2) Oct/Nov 2010 Cover photo: Mathew Teague FEIN MutiMaster. The number one tool for remodeling and renovation. QUickIN tool changing ie =| a ] | Comfortable SoftGrip body } Hundreds of accessories For over 40 years FEIN has been making oscillating tools for professionals and handymen alike, The FEIN MutiMasrek is the most versatile tool for remodeling and renovation. German engineered and manufactured, the high power motor Is designed for heavy duty, continuous use and operator comfort. A wide selection of accessories is available for every application. Change them quickly and easily with the QuickIN tool changing system. For more information, to receive a free DVD, or to see the complete line ata dealer near you, call 1-800-441-9878 or visit us at Contents 43 IY) Oct/Nov 2010 Techniques Slip Seat Upholstery Learn to construct a cushioned chair seat, from building the webbed platform to adding the foam and upholstery fabric, No-Fear Veneering Discover the art of veneering with Virginia woodworker Jonathan Benson as he guides you through the ‘materials, tools, and techniques for applying, anattractive figured skin to your projects. Wax for Fine Finishing ‘Today's waxes have improved a lot since yo! granddad’s day. See wh ones you'll want in your bag of finishing tricks. Tools and More 10 Hot New Tools + Delta 13" Portable Planer ‘Work Sharp Knife Sharpening System + Galbert Turner's Caliper + SawStop 1.75 HP Professional Cabinet Saw 72 Problem-Solving Products + Micro Jig's GRR-Ripper Model GR200 Special Feature 66 Stock Options: Air- or Kiln-Dried Weigh the pros and cons of buying oven-dried lumber against the alternative—harvesting, stacking, and seasoning stock for use in projects. Departments 6 Cuttingin 8 Mailbox 16 Tips & Tricks 80 Workshop Mishaps SON ape Wood Products, Inc. __ EQUALIZER SLIDES 0.0) 020) 000) DS avaraet Caos i crc meoy ery Cutting In WODDCRAET Oct/Nov 2010 Volume 6, Issue 37 orci im tarls Shop-Plans Central slr tere ae Aroector has ecuna Graphic Desiree Shaye es W... larrived at Woodcraft Magazine in June of 2007, | was Cute pare ee given the opportunity to help readers assemble the best possible airtentaey workspace to fully enjoy their woodworking. Adhering to the copy Ede philosophy that “with a great shop you can do great things,” pameLlenbis Woodcraft Magazine's editorial staff and contributors developed Usadiser avariety of must-have jigs and organizers geared to the needs ‘contributing Photographer of real-world woodworkers. Because each issue of the magazine pane) only stays on the newsstand for two months, and because some Contributing Craftsmen/Project Designers: of you may have missed an issue or two, we wanted to make sure you had our complete lineup of hardworking shop-related projects within easy reach. Enter our latest effort, Classic” Shop Plans. This library of large-format workshop project plans provides easy- _pubisher Jody caret to-follow dimensioned drawings, step-by-step instructions, CUtliSts, gusnesy eatin buying guides, and, where needed, full-sized patterns. The project Production Manager designs offer a consistent style, allowing you to create aworkspace Advertsing Salas Manager Vielombard where everything visually goes together—no mismatched pieces shia ee that stand out for all the wrong reasons. In our growing collection, __—‘Ielation Support, you'll find our Classic Workbench, Super-easy Workshop Cabinets, eation 3-in-1 Assembly Table, Three Mobile Carts, Craftsman’s Toolbox, Tool —_“evst!on Spetialists. ne Board Organizers, Router Bit Cabinet, and our Dream Shop Planner, Subscriptions ‘And this is just a start, Upcoming additions include our Full-service Samietony'asas oY" Router Table, Tapering Jig, and our Precision Tablesaw Sled. Pc Cee ere Plan prices range from $5.99 to $15.99. To buy one or more, visit your local Woodcraft store, order online at, WndoattNegsing 6 call (800) 535-4482, You won't be disappointed. Macle from sturdy 22fmerton Avene ste materials purchased at home centers, we find the projects quick to Parkersburg Ww 261027020 ‘ (200 S85 3647 Fo (90) 20-9840 build and ideal for mixing and red cueomscietnteane oan matching, Now they're yours. Waneld in wonder tmcoeroaznn Go make an awesome shop! A Woodcraft Mogative(\SSN:1953.246, USPS 024-953) spun ancary March May hy, September Soa November ang printed he aed states by Wooderatesipiy, Lc, 4420 Emerson Ave, Ste A, Parkersburg WV 26108, To (3044852607. Pred Postage pola Pakesburg, WY, ol at aral naling ofies Copy 20100 Weodeatt ‘Sippy LC. All ight eed: POSTMASTER: Send dress changes to Woodtrft Mogzne, 20. Box “702, Prkrsbury, WY 26102 7020 Canad Post Pubicatons Ml yrerent #0612608 Canada Returs tbe sont oP Sous, Oho 2354, Lodo, ON NECEB2 Frintedin the USA ‘Safety Fist Working wood ean be dangerous Alwaysmake shop safety yeur frst priory by fading ad oling the recommendations of our ewnersmamusls, wing appropriate guards and safety devs and amtainingal your ‘als propery Use odequatesight and hearing brtection, Messe note tat for purposes at Iustrai lity guar ana othe saery devices ‘may be removed rom tol ssownin photographs Sd isratns in ths publeaBon an others. BUENENGT woodcrattmagazinecom Oct/Nov 2010 gael routing technology Co eee Trend T4EK 1.1 HP Variable Speed Plunge Router Introducing Trend’s T4EK, a light-duty, 1.1 HP plunge base router with electronic variable speed motor. This plunge router is ideal for inlaying, sign making, edge molding or any other light-duty routing applications. A convenient spindle lock makes short work of bit changing. With the easily removable router base, the T4EK motor is perfect for any power-carving enthusiast. 840791 1.1 HP VS Plunge Base Router: + Ideal For Iniaying, Sign Making, Edge Molding Or Any Other Light-Duty Routing Applications + Remove The Router Base For The Perfect Power-Carving Motor 6mm And 8mm), A Giip-In Dust Spout, 4" Template Guide Bushing, Edge Guide And Storage Case Mailbox A leg up on grain composition Irecently made a coffee table and am a bit unhappy with the look of the square legs. Two opposing faces of each leg have straight grain, but the adjacent faces display broad, cathedral grain. I notice that furniture in galleries has legs with relatively straight grain ‘onalll the leg faces. Am I doing something wrong? Randy Stockton, Gary, Indiana The problem is that when leg stock ts ripped so that the annular rings run side to side, it results in relatively straight grain on two opposing faces, and wilder cathedral on the others: a bad match. The trick is to cut the pieces so that the annular rings run diagonally, which is known as a “rift cut.” The easiest approach to making rifesawn leg blanks is to rip them from the outer edges of a typical flat-sawn board, as shown. Alternatively, you can bevel-rip the stock to create a diagonal annular ring orientation. The downside is that Better cherry with chemistry? My intent was to discourage woodworkers from unnecessarily messing with potentially dangerous chemicals when the results are not worth the risk. Idid not provide details on concentrations because cherry treated with potassium Having experimented extensively with coloring cherry, Ihave to take issue with Craig Bentzley's “Adding Age to Cherry” article (Woodcraft Magazine, \ssue 35, June/July 2000). He advises against using potassium dichromate, but I've had excellent results with it. I used the this is more work, and yields thinner pieces, so you'll have to start with stock that's oversized in thickness. Paull Anthony, senior editor Cathedral Annular ring Bevel-ripping works too, but yields Rip riftsawn leg blank narrower pieces. from edge of board for good arain match. Side-to-side ring orientation produces oor grain mateh. Over a few years, the bed will lighten a bit while the table continues to darken. But don't worry; a few decades from now, the two will balance out. The {fact is, the only way to impede cherry’s constant state of change is by using a pigmented stain. treatment to match a cherry bed toatung-oiled table I made 16 years earlier, and the colors of the two proved indistinguishable. Unfortunately, the article doesn't state the particular concentration of chemicals used, which I've found to be critical to success. | also question the safety comments. While the chemicals must be handled with care, they are not as dangerous as the article implies. -Bruce Wedlock, North Reading, Massachusetts dichromate or sodium hydroxide will lighten regardless of the ~Craig Bentzley, Chalfont, Pennsylvania concentration. I've observed the results on projects | made ‘more than 30 years ago, as well as those built by woodworking colleagues more than 60 years ago. (It's interesting that few woodworkers live long enough to see their work turn the true color of “antique” cherry, which is a light reddish gold.) The color of your new bed may now look just like your 16-year- old table, but don’t expect the two to remain so perfectly matched. SUNNNENBTN woodcrattmagscinecom Oct/Nov 2010 Chime In Have comments about the magazine, questions about an article, or something to share with your fellow Woodcraft Magazine readers? Send an email to editor@ or aletter to Woodcraft ‘Magazine, PO Box 7020, Parkersburg, WV 26102. musration: Chad MeChing : np NOW Before An Injury Stops allem ial cio Cabinet on now in WI o lm eal Ke] Winning Safety And Dust Collection For 7S Neos renin ar oc Cer Be ete Tools Smoother operator Delta 22-590 13" Portable Planer Delta's newest benchtop planer offers a few interesting details that set this model apart from the rest. Like other top-ranking models, the 22-590 sports a three-knife cuttethead that, at 90 cuts per inch, produces a nearly flawless finished surface. One improvement over Delta's previous model lies in the double-sided replaceable knives; better steel and a slightly lower cutting angle allow the edges to stay sharper 25% longer. Considering that replacement blades cost $50 a set, this can translate into big savings. Improved chip collection not only means cleaner shop, but also better surface quality, since lumber FON) Two Products, One Project, Great Finish! can get dinged when chips lodge under the outfeed rollers. Several planers have preset depth stops, but the 22-590 offers a dial-a-thickness depth gauge marked in %:" increments between %" and 1%4” (see inset, below). This extra adjustability enables you to set the cutterhead ahair higher than your desired thickness, leaving extra material for final surface cleanup. #847358 $529.99 Tester: Joe Hurst-Wajszczuk bead Pais 5 Ba polen Ce) 7. ier URETH. we (cr aa RUMEN NACL LE Finishes products with East) ee) ESS URE mL PSE Re Ecc err) RT ee mec) (Oct/Nov 2010 The cure for the dullest knife in the drawer Work Sharp Knife Sharpening System The Work Sharp's popularity sharpening intuitive. proves that woodworkers want Compared to the flat sharp tools justaslongasthey _grind obtained with have an easy means of getting _—_stones, the flexible them that way. Building on belt establishes chisel and plane iron success, a longer-lasting the company has devised a convex grind. knife-sharpening system that The system works on similarly addresses past excuses _ everything from kitchen knives for working with dull blades. to scissors to pruning shears. The drive pulley and tensioner easily attach tothe Work Sharp #151270 $59.99 in minutes. Once attached, the ‘#151171 replacement belts $9.95, adjustable bevel guide makes Tester: Kent Harpool Featured products avaiable from Wooderaft Supply unless otherwise noted The New Easy Hollower ‘Shaping hollow forms is challenging enough. Two smart new performance enhancers from Easy Wood Tools make, it less of a chore and more about the art ‘The new Easy Wood Tools Faceplates - precision machined in rust-proof anodized aluminum - mounts your vessel super securely $0 you're off toa solid start. ecg Neco ‘And the new Easy Hollower” with its revolutionary True Curve Neck gets ‘you into the most difficult hollow form shapes (up to 5"/127 mm in diameter), uickiy and easily. Cutting-edge replaceable Carbide Cutters never need sharpening, And the SuperWide” Tool Bar makes for unmatched stabilty and perfect cutter presentation for both novices and pros. Making it easy to make your art. ‘ * (270) 903-4270 Photo: Chad MeClng Oct/Nov 2010 {Vi Tools Can’t-miss caliper Galbert Turner’s Caliper This caliper is different from any other measuring device you might already own. Unlike traditional turning calipers, where you set the opening by measuring or by setting it against a mating part, the Galbert ‘Turner's Caliper functions much like a turner’s tape measure, providing an accurate numeric measurement of the diameter while a piece is being turned. To use, simply press the stylus against your work, even as it’s being turned, With the caliper in one hand and a parting tool in the other, | can quickly and accurately cut any diameter from %4" to 274" without reaching for another tool. (Showing is easier than telling, especially with turning, To watch the tool in action, go to #151266 $79.99 Tester: Ben Bice Featured products available from Wooderaft Supply unless otherwise noted. New, & Improvea: Securely elevate and effortlessly ee R IM ett Easily secured to work surface or each " other with SE 42!) Oct/Nov 2010 By replacing the 3-hp motor with a 1.75-hp motor used in its contractor saws, SawStop created a more affordable, fully capable, finger-saving cabinet saw that you can plug into any standard 120-volt outlet. Like the 3-hp model, the 1.75-hp saw is available with 30", 36, and 52" rip fences, Having used contractor and hybrid saws, I know a 1.75-hp = Safer sawing at 120 volts 1.75-HP SawStop Professional Cabinet Saw motor provides plenty of power for most furnituremaking operations, especially if you switch over to thin-kerf blades. The few instances that you might want a little more power are insignificant compared to the one time you might need a blade-stopping brake. #846918 (basic model with 30" fence) $2,299 Tester: Andrew Bondi (Oct/Nov 2010 Cw Prt filters and ed Puri with our patented Pras Pra Now you can remove over 99% of dust before it ever has a chance to clog your vacuum filer. Our award-winning Dust Deputy retrofits on any shop vacuum and works wet or dry Dut Deputy Onli ja-air. ‘com Call for your FREE catalog! 800.732.4065 (143 Channeled dust por for superior collection ‘Automatic collet lock for 1 wrench changes \ & Patented micro-adjust knob Nectae pr eS Easy access brushes oe Built-in safety lock out switch 4/2" Collet with 1/4" reducer Award winning engineering (Also 2.25 & 3.26 hp models | Through | alba row at howtle | Precision Power Tools P=" WODDCRAFT” sae For a dealer near you contacts HTC Products, Ine NEW Low Pricing! ‘ump 15180 jr 5439 rng 0 fh FA : f Special Edition . 4-Knife Set \ - w/Display Case sete Fae eae oe rt sas W@DCRAFT” FAY) Oct/Nov 2010 Meet a new company with a 64 year heritage. We're new to the neighborhood. But not the industry. For more than 60 years, Canadian-based General Mig. has been designing, producing and selling high quality, reliable woodworking machinery. Now we've opened our first American distribution center in Murfreesboro, TN. This new venture wil allow us to better serve our American distributors and their customers, So you'll enjoy faster, easier access to our extensive line of woodworking products. And know that whatever you build, your tools were built on a long, proud heritage of trust. For more information visit (ITs) | pprabet by euiiota Excalibur Ces Ineraton USA ne, 760 Jessica St. Muto Circle-sanding jig I cobbled up this disc sander jig to clean up the edges of small circular workpieces. It consists of a sled that rides on a base fixed to the table. To build the jig, first make the base and sled from *4"-thick plywood about 5" wide. To determine the length for both pieces, measure the distance between your sanding disc and the front edge of the tool's table, and add an inch or so. Saw a dado lengthwise down the center of each piece. Size a 4"-thick runner to fit the dado, terminating it 2" from the outer end of the base, and then glue it in place where shown. Glue a 2"-long stop into the outermost end of the sled dado. Size a “registration bar” to fit your table slot, and glue and screw it to the underside of the base, so that the base and sled both rest against the sander disc. To use the jig, drive a 4d finish nail into the sled at the centerline, setting it back from the inner edge of the sled a distance equal to the desired circle radius. Clip off the head of the nail. Drill a‘s"-diameter Rotate workpiece while 4D finish nail pushing sled forward. Workpiece Sled x5! (suit length to table) %" Dado %" deep ¥%" Dado Vi" deep Base x5" (suit length to table) Runner Registration bar RB i b hole in the backside of your workpiece, and set iton the nail. Place the sled on the jigbase, and slowly push it inward while rotating the workpiece. Continue until the stop hits the end of the sled runner, creating a smooth-edged, perfect circle. —Bil Mitchell, Hellertown, Pennsylvania “Signature Line” Chop Master 90 Tooth Big News Ps Te hy cm shri pe Kanes paced orca from Forre st maori. For use on siting compound miterichopsaws and racial arm saws. 40" «105 Ker 4" Bore « 12" 115 Kert x or 1" Bore ‘Woodworker II 10" x 48 Tooth 25° ATB BS Gvalabo in stardara ker and thin kr, Excelint for ining up to 2" solid stock. BN Great for chp ee cross cuts and 2 sided finshed) py. For tablesaws. BON 10° x 125 Ker or use100 Kerf for saws less than 2 fi. 2-Piece & 4-Piece Finger Joint Sets Reversible, interlocking 8° blades iso ideal for rabbets and grooves. The blades have 24 eeth anda standard boro, Thee combinations aval and Ho" cuts oF" and %" cuts, a al the above ‘Thin Kerf Dados Clean eating of" to" groves in thin plywood, as wel as in man-made matrias. Sets have 24 tooth outside blades and magnetic shims. Two po. set dados "wide. Three pe. St dads "wid with Me" hippo. Cees Pree nc tt ON eRe Cg rece © Call us toll free at 1-800-733-7111 Nea Cm a ele Oder tte reread eT ata 16) Oct/Nov 2010 Skew block plane. — ENS My on ae into lumber. Turning with a block plane As far as turning goes, I'm closer to terrible than terrific. Trying to make eight identical, rather thin, spindles for a Shaker stool, | found that | just couldn't get the surface finish and precise diameters that I wanted without resorting to alot of tedious hand-sanding. About halfway through, I Cu tried using my block plane. With the lathe spinning slowly, [rested the skewed plane on the rough fea ane turned spindle, and moved the tool slowly forwar After a few bumpy passes, itbegan producing wispy TEE eldest shavings. The resulting finish was super-smooth, and the control afforded by the plane enabled me to turn the spindle diameters that I wanted —Bob Joseph, Birmingham, Alabama dream to the Share a Slick Tip Win Cash or a Prize! Here's your chance to help fellow Woodcraft readers become better woodworkers while getting rewarded for your effort. Next issue's Top Tip ere CR ee ia Cus winner will receive s Woodcraft Gift Card for $250. rem eae iel Runners-up will receive $125 for an illustrated tip; $75 for an unillustrated one. Winning entries become the property of Woodcraft Magazine. Send your trick ideas to: Tips & Tricks, Woodcraft | ‘Magazine, P.O. Box 7020, Parkersburg, WV 26102- 7020 or email editor Important: Please include your phone number, {as an editor will need to call you if your tip or trick is considered for publication. Ilustrations: Chris Glowack! Oct/Nov 2010 [a7] Tips & Tricks Saw kerfto match rule thickness, —_ 6" steel rule Stand-up rule jig I find that the best tool for adjusting the bit height ona table router is a 6" steel rule with fractional increments on its end. The only problem is holding the rule on edge, since my hands are both occupied adjusting the router. To create a “third hand,” | kerfed a block of wood to squeeze the blade and hold it on edge while I adjust the bit height to the end increments, (I made the cut with a hacksaw, but any saw whose kerf equals the rule's thickness will do,) Use the same trick to stand straightedges for adjusting jointer knives and aligning surfaces. —Serge Duclos, Delson, Québec Connecticut Valley School of Woodworking LEARNING BY DOING Hands-on woodworking & furniture making classes for all skill levels, Nights, weekends & week-long classes te Manchester, CT 06040 860.647.0303 HOLEY GALAHAD® ets you see where youve been and where youre going! Six patent pending dls are available in both round and fat sulace = proies in coarse, medium and fine carbide rs Tools To Bring Your Vision’ To Reality” ‘A Window To Your Work “used the Holy Galahad? ona [otf te olmination of the wood par of the shul and hors, and | used Guinevere? sanders on the entie skull and ornsItumed cut absolutely sunning!” THOMAS MILO DEAN lowekanigscom 4-800-942-1300 » IBY) Oct/Nov 2010 4° >} overcut V-notch Ma" to form dust grooves. Start with square workpiece. Finished piece is perfect octagor Chamfering on the planer Ineeded to make 10'-long tent poles for our Boy Scout troop, and decided to chamfer square stock to create octagonal posts. To do this, I devised this planer jig for the job. I's just a 2 x 4" board with a V-notch to carry the workpiece at 45° to the planer bed. made the board a bit longer than my planer bed and screwed a stopblock to the trailing end to resist feed roller pull. Waxing the notch ensures ‘smooth workpiece travel, and shallow kerfs at the bottom serve for dust clearance, The jig is also useful for “octoplaning” parts for all sorts of projects, including shelf clocks, trophy stands, and candlesticks. —Ernie Conover, Parkman, Ohio stopblock keeps Jigon planer bed. TT Quality hop onlin vr hutproducis.con ROT Produc! (Oct/Nov 2010 Pane Season 17 PSTN on AU Or ae DE TCO Suzy Phillips 300 + PBS Stations Everywhere this Fall on PBS & on Woodshop Presented by: Underwritten by = ADELTA WODCRAFT” PORTER E3 CABLE. 49 moma Sawhorse Roundup Corral one or more of these sturdy work supports for your shop. By Jim Harrold and Jody Garrett ere aos Pore eC hea) size, you can hardly call it complete without a few trusty steeds. A pair of horses can help support work for hand-sawing and machining, supply legs f an assembly table, or create an instant workstation. We designed three variations, each with special benefits so you can choo: one that best serves your needs. We begin with a simple folding sawhorse having two frames that hinge together at the top and at the bottom via a pair of hinged braces. Lightweight, this style collapses flat for easy transporting or storing and sets up in a jiffy, making It ideal for jobsite work. The carpenter's sawhorse, our stoutest, features a low profile {at 24” high) that helps you Eres w Ee a perform a multitude of tasks, from hand-sawing to supporting heavy loads. A built-in shelf offers aplace to store items you want close at hand. And whil wide permanent footpr can stack one atop the other to conserve valuable floor space. The beam can also serve asa clamping surface or as an ever-ready seat. ‘The last horse is sleek and simple. This knockdown sawhorse is light, easy to move, and has a modest footprint. The upright design lets you position a pair close together for small jobs or nestle them together when you stow them away. Add spacers tothe top rail for use as a portable infeed /outfeed stand for stationary machines. If space tight, the knockdown hardware makes them easy to disassemble. BON) Oct/Nov 2010 Peet beri y Folding sawhorse 1. Rip enough 2'/"-wide material for top rails (A), bottom rails (B), legs (C), and braces (D) rom %" stock. Referring to the Cut List, crosscut each piece to the final length. 2 Mark the dadoes and rabbets on the faces and edges of top rails (A), bottom rails (B), and legs (C) (Figure 1). Install a dado set in your tablesaw and raise it to % your miter gauge with an extension fence and tablesaw fence with a stopblock, cut all of the dadoes and rabbets on these parts, adjusting the fence and stopblock as needed. Dry-fit the parts. 3 Align and adhere the top rails (A) together with double-faced Take the folding sawhorses anywhere you need Notches in the top rails provide work supports that set up fast a handhold for easy toting. tape. Now mark the handhold Figure notch along the bottom edge of upper top rail. Jigsaw or bandsaw the notches out, cutting just outside the line Use a spindle sander or drill- press drum sander to sand the%/"-radius cornerstothe |Z line. Separate the parts. io] 4 Glue and clamp the mating | dadoes and rabbets making | up the lap joints of the rail and leg frame assemblies (A/B/C), Check for square. Then sand smooth, easing the edges. 5 Note the locations for the butt hinges on legs (C) where ‘olding Sawhorse Exploded View | Ye deep "x24" rabbet shown in Figure 1 and install them, For the best results, use a self-centering bit to drill pilot holes, ensuring that the leaves are square to the legs. Now install the three lower hinges to braces (D) and attach them to bottom rails (B). Folding Sawhorse Cut List Part Thickness | Width | Length sl} Ax 2s" | | [ae | WE Copeave ater 8_| Bottom rails % 2 deen a * a D_| Braces % ye ‘Material: CP=Cypress; Hardware: 1% x 2°" butt hinges (5 needed) Photos Osborn Muetratins: Mario Fer Oct/Nov 2010 [iil Carpenter’s workhorse Laminate two % x 4 x 36" pieces to create the 1¥4"-thick workpiece. Now machine the piece to the sizes of the Cut List for beam (A). (A 2x4 also works.) 2 Lay out the angled dado cut lines on the beam (A) for each leg (B), as shown in the Angled Dado Detail in Figure 2. 3 To cutthe angled dado ona tablesaw, you first need to make a wedge-like extension fence. Begin witha 15"-long piece of 2x4 and rip or joint off the rounded edges, making it 1¥4 x 3", Next, make a simple h-saddle for your saw fence from three pieces of MDF. Apply double-faced tape along the bottom edge of the saddle’s face and adhere the 15".long piece to it. Angle the blade at 14° and bevel-rip the piece as shown in Photo A, creating a wedge. Install a dado set and raise it 3p", Screw the wedge extension fence to your miter gauge, and angle the gauge at 10°. Place the top face of beam (A) against the fence, align the dado set with the cutlines, and cut the angled dado as shown in Photo B. Note that two of the angled dadoes for the legs will be cut from the left side of the dado set, and two from the right. Relocate Use an h-saddle and double-faced tape to keep fingers ‘out of harm’s way when cutting the 14° wedge. neces eee The low profile of this sawhorse lets you pin workpieces with your knee. The lower tray serves as temporary tool storage. and reposition the miter gauge to agree with the cutlines. Cut four legs to width and 2" longer than the dimensions in the Cut List. To avoid confusion, label the mating dadoes and legs 1-4. Fitone end ofa leg (B) into one of the angled dadoes, and mark italong the inside face as shown in Photo C. Check the angle along the face; it should measure 10° Now angle the blade at 14° and compound-cut the leg at one end. Mark parallel cutlines 2: from the cut ends of the legs I é BBN) Oct/Nov 2010 make the remaining compound cuts. (As an alternative, you can screw the legs in place proud, ensuring the horse stands level on the floor, and hand-cut the top ends flush with the beam, 6 Predrill and countersink holes through legs (B) and into the angled dadoes in beam (A). Next, apply glue and fasten each of the legs in place with three #8 « 1%4" wood screws. Cut two pieces of %" plywood to the Cut List length for the trapezoidal gussets (C). Fora Clamp the beam to the wedge and cut at the angled dado cutlines. Now saw out the waste in between. Figure 2: Carpenter’s Sawhorse Exploded View #8114" flathead wood screws precision fit, place the plywood at each end of the beam/legs assembly (A/B), and scribe along the outside edges of the legs onto the plywood. Use these lines to cut the tapering edges ofthe gussets on a bandsaw. ‘Screw the gussets in place. 8 cutthe stretchers (D) 2" longer than the Cut List With a leg slipped into an angled dado proud of the part’s top face, pencil a cutline. dimension. Holding the pieces 1024" up from the bottom ends of the legs (B), mark along the outside faces of the gussets (C) onto the inside faces of each stretcher for an exact fit. Angle-cut these pieces to final length and attach them with wood screws. Q Measure between gussets (©) and between stretchers (D) to see if the dimensions for the tool tray (E) check out. Angled Dado Detail 81% fathead Adjust, if needed, and cut the part to size, bevel-cutting the edges at 14°, Mark and bevel- cut the corner notches with a bandsaw or jigsaw. Test- fitand screw it in place. Note: Though the angle adjustments on the miter gauge and tablesaw blade for the ‘compound cuts are for 10° and 14°, respectively, they correspond with the actual resulting angles ‘on the parts shown in Figure 2. 2s" ace (a aa sstiscaa Lay cP ay" [a [pw ++Made from two pieces of laminated % stock. “Indicates parts are initially cut oversized, See instructions. Material: CP=Cypress; Pl irwood Cet/Nov 2010 wooderaftmagarne com paso These stands rely on knockdown hardware for assembly. Make a pair for a work table; add a spacer to use one for an outfeed work support. Nae) eee eur ees Bandsaw cuts along the notch cutlines, adjusting the fence as needed. Then make multiple cuts to remove the waste; clean up the notch with a chis Nest the stands to save space or store the parts on the rack at left BAN) Oct/Nov 2010 Knockdown trestle horse 1 cutthe legs (A) and feet (B) to the overall dimensions in the Cut List, 2 Whether building one stand ora pair, align and adhere the legs (A) and feet (B) together in two stacks with double-faced tape. Referring to Figure 3, mark the tapers and notch on the leg stack. Set up the fence anda stopblock on the bandsaw, and gang-cut the notches on the top ends of the legs as shown in Photo D. Remove the fence and stopblock to bandsaw the tapered ends, cutting outside the lines. Sand to the lines using a stationary belt/dise sander. Similarly, mark, gang- cut, and sand the stack for feet (B), including the notch along the bottom edge. Use a spindle sander to sand the radii Lay out the %4" holes on the top face of the stack for legs (A). Then lay out the centers and %" dowel holes on the bottom end of the stack for legs (A) and on the top edges of the stack for feet (B). Chuck a %" brad-point bit in your drill press, adjust the fence, and drill the holes Clamp the workpiece in a bench vise, align the doweling jig with the centerline, and bore the holes to depth plus %:" to make room for glue. through the leg stack. Separate the legs and feet in each stack. 4 Using a self-centering doweling jig and stop on a %e" brad-point bit, drill the dowel holes in the ends of the legs (A) and feet (B) as shown in Photo E. 5 Apply glue in the mating dowel holes for the legs (A) and feet (B), insert the dowels as shown in Photo F, and squeeze the parts together using bar clamps. 6 Cut the top rail (C), lower rail (D), and spacers (E) to the sizes in the Cut List, Cut the notches in the top rails where shown. Now, mark and drill the holes in the ends of the lower rails using a doweling jig and guiding off the holes drilled in legs (A). Drill the cross dowel holes. Insert the connector bolts and cross dowels (Photo G), drop in the upper rails, and put your horses to work. i Spread glue in the holes, insert the dowels, and press the parts together with clamps. Use an Allen wrench to firmly tighten the leg/feet assemblies against the lower rail. Figure 3: Knockdown Trestle Horse Exploded View Spacer width determined by need. ——~ 4! radius Connector bolt %20x3" ¥e" hole Dowel pin dia. x2" 1 "radius @ Cross dowel ¥e20x 16mm sa" dia. holes deep 2" radius Knockdown Trestle Horse Cut List a Part [Thickness | Width Length | Qty. | Mat'l Tees Tp eae Feet eo ft [zo tM | eae Fe eral 2a nw [1m aie ei 3 za Ft_[Cleats 2 a 4 |p + Optional Material: M=Maple; Pl OctfNov2010 woodcraftmagazine com [125 t 0. taken for granted, well-crafted handles (knobs and pulls) say alot about a piece of furniture or cabinet, especially handles that both please the eye as an accent and serve their function effectively. Ergonomically, their size and shape for the average drawer must accommodate a child's small hands, and those of an adult, providing comfort and plenty of purchase. Mechanically, a good knob or pull should open a drawer without separating from it, no matter how much ballast a pack rathas hoarded within, It should never come loose or spin on the door or drawer. And while it takes more ume to design and create stylish custom handles, the good news is that shop-made ones give you something unique compared to ho-hum store-bought offerings. I've worked through the safe machining of four very popular handle styles, including a round Shaker knob, an Arts & Crafts knob, a coved desk-drawer pull, Scaling Handles To Match and a U-shape pull. As shown here, you can attach them using tenons, wedged tenons, dowels, and screws. Til also touch on two quick scaling methods below. For any special items in this story, see the Convenience- Plus Buying Guide. While the handles here replicate store-bought sizes for cabinets ‘and furniture pieces, you can scale them to any size you need with either of these easy solutions. Solution Draw the desired handle on graph paper to full size, Reduce this image to the needed size ata copy machine by lowering the percentage from, say, 100% to 80%. Pick off measurements from the reduced copy for the desired handle size, Solution 2: Use a construction calculator like Inchmate 2000 that lets you multiply fractions by percentages. Bl) woodcraftmagazinecom Oct/Nov 2010 Figure 1: Shaker Knob Turned Shaker knobs Shaker knobs appear in many understated furniture pieces and cabinets. Generally, 1%" to2" are common diameters. like that I can turn a pair of knobs with tenons from one piece between centers. For a better hold, wedge the tenons in place during installation. 1 Cuta 6"-long blank from 1A" dowel or turning stock and mount it between centers, At 1,500 rpm, round the blank to 1%" diameter using a roughing gouge. 2 Mark the locations of beads, coves, and tenons shown in Figure 1. Now, use a parting tool (or bedan) to establish the finished diameters. Form the rounded end profile of the knob by working from the center out and taking small cuts, Photos: Chad Meclonglvstratons: Melanie Powel — 3 With a roundnose scraper, form the coves (Photo A), ensuring that the profiles match, Now reduce the waste diameter between the pulls to around %". Stop the lathe and finish separating the pulls with a handsaw. 4 Install a scroll chuck, Secure the tenon for one knob in the chuck. Position the tool rest at an angle to the knob’s end and, with a spindle gouge, form the end profile (Photo B). Shape the edges, as well as the base, Sand through 220 grit. Repeat for the other knob, 5 To split the tenons for the wedges, make the Kerfing Jig above. Flush-cut the tenons to rough length and kerf them (Photo C). Cut tapered wedges that match the tenon’s diameter. in Split tenon | Cut kerf in jig Cut off excess > using ig Wedge (fush-cut to length after glued in place) Kerfing Jig 2x 5% 14 block of we fareagd Center kerfs With the tool rest above center, move the scraper in from the outside edges to form the cove. Split tenon Insert the knob’s tenon in the jig and clamp the jig’s kerfed end to secure the knob. Then flush-cut the tenon, and split it with a backsaw. Oct/Nov 2010 {27 Figure 2: Arts & Crafts Knob Beveled end oan — Lia sstach tht Seas an Face grain Arts & Crafts 1 Plane and crosscuta1x1*6" — blankstock along thegrain knobs end-grain piece of stock into 1 x 1° square blanks. (Lused a6 x 12" piece of 5/4 2 Adjust the miter gauge in This handsome square knob, white oak) at your mitersaw your disc sander to 15°. Use a with its face-grained beveled or tablesaw, ensuring the sides combination square to strike a end, takes shape at a disc sander are clean and square. (The mark midway across the blank’s and router table. | use a dowel resulting blank makes two pulls _ ends. Bevel the ends of the four- to secure it to a door or drawer, safely.) If you want end grain sided knob blanks (Photo D) to buta screw works just as well. at the end of the pulls, rip the create a gentle pyramidal crown. 3 Next, chuck a "diameter core box bit in your table- mounted router and adjust the fence %" from the bit's center (or%" from the cutting edge). Raise the bit 14” and slowly make a cut on all four faces of the blank (Photo E), routing end-grain edges first. If you experience tear-out or burning, make the cuts in" increments 4 cut two 1%"-long pulls off the ends of the blank at the move the workpiece over the bit. _tablesaw as shown in Photo F, The setup allows for safe control. repeating the process to create as many knobs as needed. Ease the front edges of the pulls with a sanding block. Pi 5 Mark diagonal lines on the inside end of the pulls to locate the centers. Now, clamp the pull upside down to your drill press against a stopblock and fence with a handscrew and drill ""-deep holes for %4" dowels. 6 Cut the dowel tenons to the needed length. Glue the dowels in the knobs, and Set the stopblock 1%" away from the blade, and then, with the blank let dry. Then glue the knob supported by the miter gauge extension fence, cut off the knob. tenons into the mating holes. With the miter gauge set at a 15° angle, sand opposing facets to the line; sand the adjacent facets. Bl) Oct/Nov 2010 Desk-drawer pull In addition to frequent opening and closing, desk drawers are often loaded down with clutter and prove heavy. Solidly mounted coved pulls let you grip them with all four fingers. Here's an easy way to make several 1 Rip and plane % 1%" stock that is 16” long for the safe machining of two pulls. Now, mark the top and bottom edges ofthe stock 54” in from the ends with a pencil to denote the overall pull lengths. Mark off the centered 344" cove zone between the pull ends. 2 Chuck a 1"-diameter core box bit in your table-mounted router, raising it to %", Adjust the fence ¥4" from the outside edge of the cutter. Align the cove marks in the workpiece with the bit’s cutting edges to setup the startblock and stopblock and to locate the cove 1" from each pull end. Now, lower the bit toa %" height. With the router on, use a pushpad to pivot the piece against the fence and startblock. Move the front end into the bit and advance itto the stopblock. If desired, Startblock — Soa Ease the workpiece against the fence and startblock, and cut the %'-deep cove in 4" bit-height increments. Figure 3: Desk-Drawer Pull = cove several workpieces at this time. Continue raising the bit in %" increments and routing to form a %4"-wide cove 141" deep (Photo G). Adjust the stops to rout a cove at the other end of the workpiece. 3 Mount a %4" round-over bit the table-mounted router and mill the outside top edge of the workpiece (Photo H). You can also use the fence for t a to ~ Cove %" deep 14" roundover ma Ba a ssh 4 Crosscut the pulls at 5A" at your mitersaw or tablesaw, ensuring the coves are centered between the ends. 5 Mark the radii on the pull ends and rout them on the table with around-over bit and back-up board or disc-sand them to shape. Finish-sand and drill pilot holes in the back faces. Center and attach them to the desk drawers with glue and screws. Round over the coved workpiece by cutting in %" increments and using pushpads for safety and control, Oct/Nov 2010 29) U-shape laminated pulls Here's a twist on the contemporary metal wire pull—a wood wire pull using contrasting woods. Threaded brass inserts epoxied in the pull ends guard against splitting the lamination while giving mating screws areliable grip for attaching to drawers and doors. 1 Thickness-plane enough 3'4"- wide stock in two contrasting woods for the needed number of pulls. Make the blank’s outside layers 4" thick and the inside layer %" thick. (I used maple and walnut.) Now glue and clamp the laminations together. Let dry and then scrape the squeeze- Template Work the flush-trim bit counterclockwise along the interior of the blank Figure 4; U-Shape Laminated Pull A out from the edges. Joint and rip the laminations to 3" wide. 2 Crosscut the lamination material to 3°4" long, For safety reasons, the pulls are machined in pairs. to shave off the waste; control the action with a custom pushblock. Read tear-out With the pull blank clamped flat on the base, run the sled along the fence to part a pull to width, Use a stopblock, fence, and handscrew to accurately drill centered holes for the insert nuts. 30) Oct/Nov 2010 roundovers 4 deep holes 416-32 brass wood insert nuts epoxied in place 3 Copy the Pull Blank ‘Template, (Figure 5), on the opposite page and adhere itto a3 x 3%" piece of 4" hardboard. Drill %” holes at the inside corners. Then, thread ina scrollsaw blade, and cut along the straight lines. File and sand the edges straight and smooth. Cut and sand the radiused outside corners. 4 Use the template to trace out the same shape on the 3 x 344" laminated pull blank. Drill the inside corner holes on the blank and cut out the interior just proud of the cutlines. 5 Align and attach the template toa pull blank with double-faced tape. Because of the close-in nature of the machining, make the Hold-Down Pushblock, (Figure 6), or use a handscrew to hold and safely control the workpiece when routing, Chuck abottom-bearing flush-trim bitin a table-mounted router and flush-trim the blank even with the template (Photo 1), 6 Chuck a *4" round-over bit in your table-mounted router and, using the pushblock, rout the inside and outside edges on both faces of the blank 7 Make the Pull-Cutting Sled (Figure 7). Now, wrap Figure 5: Pull Blank Template (full sized) a" radius the blank at both ends with painter's tape to reduce tear-out, and make the cut (Photo J). 8 Mark center on one end of a pull and set up a fence and stopblock on your drill press for drilling the holes. Now, clamp a pull to the drill press fence and drill %"-deep holes at each end that are sized to your threaded inserts (Photo K). Epoxy the inserts in place in the holes, Finally, finish-sand the pull to 220 grit, apply finish, and attach with mating screws toa door or drawer. i D1. | Core Box Bit, 94" CL, (%4" SH) #147240 | $22.99 2, | Core Box ae," cL, ("SH | w1aaai7 | $28.99 03, | Whiteside Round-over Bit, 14" (4° SH) waacas | $31.99 C34, _| Flushtrim alt 4", 2" CLC" SH | rnaaaze | $16.79 115, | Whiteside Round-over Bt 4" R (4 SH) waacaz | $23.99 6. | Toggle Clamp, 6x14" #143938 | $11.99 ‘ir rin egal rs hon ya 8338 a a7. [mehate 2000 | $3899 Pineal ee eaaeeaeei a att Figure 6: Hold-Down Pushblock 4" chamfer Handle I" dia. dowel x a" hole, 7" deep Top block Ax 23%" Ye" radius Bottom block Wx xa" ye Natural rubber drawer liner cut to fit bottom block, Figure 7: Pull-Cutting Sled eiril en ‘Toggle clamp as sa ~e Fence Wx Dx 6" 1A" Base sx ax 12" Supplies: (4) #8 x°%" screws and washers; (as needed) #6-32 or #8-32 brass wood insert nuts; (as needed) #6-32 or 48-32 roundhead machine screws. Oct/Nov 2010 wooderatmagsne com IEE aT the way things are done. iz ee Technology Is Revolutionizing Tabletop Workholding! LO eT UCPOR ION nu OR SC) Serer Siesta See sine MUN Beelesiss tok cay Ree eer es ret ee eee Mee sy RMU er og Guide, MagFence Resaw Guide, 20mm Detect eesti? CTL ae ae UCSC ‘Anywhere You Need It. DercuMeruenccetin sci Cen te uesc i Pro Featherboard with Vertical Atfachment: eee eu eeu on ee Meee oon) Serre Se tic! ds ce eer ua » Gun be used with fable saw on the econ) ioe ety Te ct Seen antec Seen meme) ere esheets k an a ito I | Seaeeermey z (nts & Crafts furniture has allot going fort; not only is it handsome, but it’s also relatively easy to build. Though my design borrows from Stickley, Greene and Greene, and other designers of the period, a few changes give ita slightly different feel and look. Unlike many Arts & Crafts rockers that have flat upright backs, this one is canted and curved for comfort. This chair is made of cherry, which imparts alight look, but in quartersawn white oak it would be textbook ‘Arts & Crafts, To add heft and substance reminiscent of Greene and Greene, try it in black walnut. Building this rocker offers just enough challenges to keep it interesting. Through tenons, like those that join the front legs to the arms, are often daunting to cut, but I've refined the process using a template to guarantee a spot-on fit. Using traditional mortise- and-tenon joinery to attach the legs to the curved rockers can prove fussy, so | employed Oct/Nov 2010 A classic design with some minor, modern twists By Matthew Teague a simple time-tested epoxy and threaded rod joint taught tome by my friend and fellow woodworker, Alan Daigte. The seat upholstery is easy enough to do yourself (See “Upholstering a Slip Seat” on page 43), or affordable enough to hire out. Despite the fact that this rocker was one of my first commissioned pieces, it remains one of my favorites. Unlike most of my early work, I only wish Thad made a second one for myself. [33 Start with the legs 1 Referring to the Leg Detail, Figure 4, lay out the shape of arear leg (A) on a piece of '- thick hardboard or MDF. Note that the angle for the back begins above the seat rail (C). Bandsaw close to your layout lines, and then sand or plane as needed to fine-tune the shape 2 Starting with an 8/4 board wider than the dimensions listed in the Cut List, mill stock for the rear legs to 124" thick. The stock will be planed to final thickness later. Position the template so that the grain follows the shape of the leg as much as possible. Outline the two legs, and then bandsaw both about i" outside of the pencil lines, 3 Attach the template toa rear leg (A) with double-faced tape, Using a table-mounted router and pattern bit, shape the leg as shown in Step 1 of Figure 2, Two-Step Template Routing. Taking light cuts, rout the workpiece flush with the template's edge. Attach the template to the other rear leg and repeat. 4 Flip the stock upside down and install a flush-trim bit, adjusting its height so that the bearing rides on the previously routed edge. Then finish shaping both rear legs as shown in Step 2 of Figure 2. 5 Select the straightest-grained stock for the front legs (B). Joint two adjacent edges and then rip each piece about "i" oversize. Now plane both the rear and front legs (A, B) to 1%", removing the ripped edge to ensure that the legs are perfectly square. 6 Chuck a 45° chamfer bit into a table-mounted router, and rout *4" chamfers along all the long edges of the legs (A, B). Make the rails and stretchers 1 From 4/4 stock, mill enough material to make the rear, front, and side seat rails (C, D,E), stretchers (F, G,H), slats (1), and corbels (J). Mill all the stock to %" thick, Select stock for the slats and continue planing that material down to Ys" thick. Put the slat stock aside for now. 2 cutthe rear and front seat rails (C, D) to the sizes shown in the Cut List. 3 onapiece of plywood or MDF, draw a full-sized layout of the Seat Detail (Figure 3), on page 35. Trace (don't measure) the legs (A, B) and rails (C.D, ) to ensure that the drawing reflects your parts. Now, place a bevel gauge on your drawing to determine the exact bevel angle for the side rails (E) and side stretchers (F). (This should come close to 86.5%, but Figure 1; Leg Detail ee 104" tenon deep 12%"| ow ve Ey rely on your drawing, Inside Back Inside Front Stock thickness could Sear face face face alter the angle +1°) Front leg Rear leg Figure 2: Two-Step Template Routing step step2 ing rides along previously routed surface. Pattern bit Fshtrim bit \y YE thick template co Rout workpiece flush with edge of template. Flip workpiece and use 3 lush-trim bit to complete cut NEESEE weedeatmsntnecon _oevnav ni Figure 3: Rocker Exploded View ax DA" mortise 4a 2%" tenon At long 104" mortise deep %ex LA mortise He 24" square plug A" round washer head screws —— Be PN 014 Ee 1" chamfer ‘on long edges Hox 2" mortise deep Ortaca) Yex VA" mortise ‘Piseer ‘Shape bottom to it rocker. sh yrdx 2%"! %s" hole threaded rod VA" deep ‘shape bottom to fit rocker. he" hole. Use epoxy to W deep fix rod in place. Yax YA" tenon Yur 1" tenon Ya x YA" | r long Miter loose oe tenons to fit legs. Back Rail Detail Seat Detail "deep Notch comer . counterbore blocks to htlegs. 4 | ex 24" tenon 4 long Center mide sat ' Iustratons Frank Rohrbaeh Oct/Nov 2010 (935) 4. Use the bevel gauge to the set your tablesaw’s blade angle (Photo A), and then cut the ends of the side seat rails (E) and side stretchers (F). Orient the angles so that the stock's best faces are on the outside of the rocker. To ensure that all four pieces are exactly the same length, outfit your miter gauge with an extension fence and stopblock. 5 Before resetting the bevel angle, crosscut the ends of two 1A 6 « 10" long pieces of scrap stock to the same angle. You will use these later when routing mortises in the ends of the side seat rails (E), side stretchers (F), and both cross stretchers (G, H). Referring to the Leg Detail (Figure 1), lay out the mortise locations on the rear and front legs (A, B) for the seat rails (C, D, E), side stretchers (F) and back rails (K, L). 7 Outfit a plunge router with an edge guide and a Ac" downeut spiral bit, Rout the 24s" mortises %" deep in the logs (A, B) for the rear and front seat rails (C, D). Plunge the router to the full depth at both ends of each mortise; then rout out the remaining waste in %" increments (Photo B). 8 on the inside faces of the rear legs (A), rout the 2'” mortises 7%" deep for the back rail (K) and 144" mortises" deep for the lower back rail (I). On the back faces of the front legs (B), rout the 1%" mortises 7" deep for the side stretchers (F). Q Mark out the 2%'-long mortises on the ends of the rear and front rails (C, D). Secure the rails upright in your bench vise; then clamp a short, thick scrap board flush with the end to help guide the fence and provide better stability for the router. Rout the mortises %" deep, Transfer the exact miter angle from the drawing to the saw. Make sure that the gauge rests against the blade’s plate, not the teeth. Applunge router and spiral bit make Quick work of the mortises. Keep the edge guide against your stock, 10 To rout mortises in the beveled ends of the side rails (E) and side stretchers (F) use the angled scrap stock that you cut in Step 5 as a guide block. Clamp the scrap to the stock with their ends flush and then rout the mortises as you did for the front and rear seat rails (Photo C). 11 stock to fs" to make the loose tenons. Rip the material to width, and then round the edges with a %«"-radius round- over bit. Cut the tenons to length and dry-assemble each joint. 2 Set the tablesaw blade to 20° and rip a 1"-wide x ¥"-deep 36!) Oct/Nov 2010 Clamp an angled piece of scrap to the side seat rails to provide better bearing for the router. bevel along the top outer edge of each rail (C, D, E) as shown in the Rocker Exploded View (Figure 3). Use a fairing stick to lay out the arch on the lower edges of the front and side seat rails (D, E), and then bandsaw to the line. eR Rear mortising jig, refer Kitchen Work Table” (Woodcraft Tea tera ced Petey eet: Dost: Sea Bate coma) Bandsaw a small scallop in the back rail to preview the grain. Orient the board so that the grain arches up. Cut the curved back rails 11 Plane 8/4 stock to 1%" thick tomake two blanks for the the upper and lower back rails (K, 1). Because the milling settings are the same, prepare extra stock for the rockers (M), and then set itaside, Cut the back rail blanks to the widths and lengths given in the Cut List. 2 Lay out the tenons on the ends of both back rails (K, L), as shown in Back Rail Detail (Figure 3) and Patterns, Make a full-sized pattern of the rail's curve, and then trace it onto the edges of both rails. 3 Bandsaw a small scallop out of each rail as seen in Photo D and Back Rail Detail to determine the best orientation for the rails. Label the rails’ top edges so that you don’t accidentally cut slat mortises on the wrong edge. 4 Use a tablesaw and miter gauge to cut the shoulders on Tip Alert When shaping the back rails, drawing pencil marks across the curved faces can you help gauge your sanding progress. Project hotot: Mathew Teague Cut the rails’ tenons before the curves. Set the blade so the teeth touch the shoulder's kerf. both rails. Be careful not to cut inside of your layout lines. 5 Saw the cheeks with a tenoning jig, as shown in Photo E. Leave the tenons a little fat and shave them down witha shoulder plane until they fit snugly. Then use a backsaw and chisel to remove the waste at the bottom and top edges. 6 Dry-fit the back assembly— the rear legs (A), both back rails (KL), and the rear seat rail (C)— and check for square (Photo F) Once assembled, measure the diagonals between back rails. Dry-fit the back to make sure all the joints close up and the assembly fits squarely together. Ifthe lengths aren't equal, the assembly isn’t square. Use a shoulder plane to shave material offtthe tenon shoulders as needed. 7 Bandsaw the curves on the faces of both back rails (K, L), as shown in Photo G. 8 Clamp the back rails (K, L) edge to edge and use a portable belt sander and spokeshave to remove the bulk of the saw marks. To continue fairing the rails, use a flexible sanding block made by gluing 80-grit sandpaper toa strip of 4"-thick plywood using spray adhesive. Cut both faces of the back rails at the bandsaw. Save the offeuts; they'll help cradle the curved stock when sanding, sawing, or drilling. Oct/Nov 2010 137