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Renaud Egreteau
To cite this article: Renaud Egreteau (2017) Power, cultural nationalism, and postcolonial public
architecture: building a parliament house in post-independence Myanmar, Commonwealth &
Comparative Politics, 55:4, 531-550, DOI: 10.1080/14662043.2017.1323401
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ABSTRACT
This article focuses on the contested, and frequently postponed, construction of
a new parliament house in postcolonial Myanmar. Since the late colonial period,
the country’s legislative bodies have convened in four different buildings, three
located in the former capital Yangon and the latest one in Naypyitaw. Drawing
on legislative proceedings and media reports, this study interrogates the
relationship between decolonisation, national identity, state-building, and
public architecture in post-independence Myanmar. It suggests that the
commissioning and construction of a new legislative house has always served
a dual objective: projecting state power and national pride in both Myanmar’s
early postcolonial and later post-junta political contexts, whilst symbolising a
sense of nationhood grounded on the representational ideals of the dominant
and ruling ethnic Bamar elites.
KEYWORDS Parliament; legislative building; public architecture; state formation; national identity;
cultural nationalism; Myanmar; Burma; burmanisation
Introduction
‘This is a royal palace’, lamented Su Su Lwin, a veteran politician from Aung
San Suu Kyi’s National League for Democracy (NLD) and Myanmar’s ‘First
Lady’ since her husband, Htin Kyaw, was elected Union president in March
2016.1 She was not referring to the mammoth presidential mansion located
in Naypyitaw, the country’s new capital since 2005. Rather, she was denoun-
cing the gigantism of the parliamentary complex built to the southwest of the
presidential compound. Inaugurated in January 2011 after elections were held
three months earlier by the ruling junta (State Peace and Development
Council, or SPDC), Myanmar’s new parliament complex stretches over 800
acres. It comprises no less than 31 buildings and is fenced off with barbed
wire. The structures boast red crimson pagoda-style roofs and are guarded
by massive statues of chinthe, Myanmar’s mythical creatures, half-lion, half-
dragon, that traditionally protect Buddhist temples and monasteries
and power of the institutions they are meant to house (Milne, 1981, p. 133).
Furthermore, state-sponsored arts and architecture have proved a major
instrument used by national elites to define, express, and promote national
identity and (re)shape the idea of nationhood (Kusno, 2000; Macintyre,
2008; Vale, 2008). As democratic or postcolonial nations have emerged, new
sites for the representation of democracy and the expression of a new collec-
tive identity have been erected (Cope, 2001; Roberts, 2009; Wise, 1998). Parlia-
ment buildings have proved among the most visible symbols of the national
identity, but also of the governmental power, of a modern nation (Goodsell,
1988, p. 287). The decision to build a new parliament house, and the choice
of location, architectural aesthetics, interior design, and materials, is seldom
a straightforward process though. It often fosters intense public debate
(Greer, 1999; Reynolds, 1996; Rosi, 1991).
Taking its cue from this scholarship, this article focuses on the contested,
and frequently postponed, constructions of a new parliament house in post-
colonial Myanmar (Burma).2 Since the late colonial period, the country’s legis-
lative assemblies have convened in four different buildings. The unicameral
colonial legislative council (1897–1936) was seated in the Secretariat, a vast
ministerial and administrative complex in downtown Yangon. Once the Gov-
ernment of Burma Act, 1935 made the legislature bicameral, the lower
chamber remained in the Secretariat compound, while the upper house
was moved half-a-mile to the west, in Yangon’s New Law Courts building.
After independence was won from the British in 1948, bicameralism was con-
tinued and the construction of a new building combining the two chambers
of the Union parliament began to be discussed. Yet, the project did not see
the light. Both chambers remained in the same colonial-built assembly halls
until a coup d’état staged in 1962 by the armed forces, or Tatmadaw,
ended parliamentary democracy in Myanmar. In 1974, a new constitution
imposed by the regime of General Ne Win restored a unicameral legislature.
A parliament building was eventually erected to the west of the Shwedagon
pagoda, in northern Yangon. The one-party People’s Congress was a model of
COMMONWEALTH & COMPARATIVE POLITICS 533
the principle of ‘dyarchy’ in its Burmese province. Under the new dual system
of governance, policymaking was asymmetrically shared between a dominant
gubernatorial power and a still weak, even if expanded and more representa-
tive, legislative branch. In particular, the reforms morphed the unicameral
council into a majority elected assembly. The latter initially comprised of
103 representatives, including 80 elected. In November 1922, the first ever
legislative elections were held in the province (Singh, 1940, pp. 38, 39).
Other polls followed in 1925, 1928, and 1932 (Taylor, 1996, pp. 166–167).
To house this new legislative assembly in the early 1920s, a small one-
storey building was erected in the inner courtyard of Yangon’s Secretariat
(Furnivall, 1960, p. 16). A flamboyant neo-gothic edifice located at the heart
of the then capital, the red-brick Secretariat Building had been since the
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late 1880s the seat of the British colonial and administrative power in
Myanmar.4 It displayed ornate walls, turrets, and clock towers (see Figure 1).
The relegation of the legislative council chamber to a rather unimpressive,
tiny building standing in the middle of the gardens of the lavish Victorian-
style colonial compound, was, as John S. Furnivall noted, a revealing metaphor
of where colonial power was then supposed to lie (1960, p. 16).
A last wave of late colonial reforms transformed the Burma Legislative
Council into a bicameral assembly – or ‘Burma Legislature’ – after the elections
held in 1936. The administrative and political separation of the Burmese pro-
vince from the rest of British India, outlined by the Government of Burma Act,
1935 came into force in April 1937. The new lower chamber, or House of
Representatives, was to accommodate 132 elected members. This assembly
remained in the same detached building located inside the Secretariat quad-
rangle. For lack of space there, the new upper house, or Senate, was trans-
ferred to the upper floors of the New Law Courts building, half-a-mile away
from the Secretariat. The building had been erected in the late 1920s
between Strand Road and Bank Street, to the south of Sule Pagoda. The
new Senate was to lodge only 36 members, half of them elected by their
peers in the lower house, the other half appointed by the British Governor
(Senate Manual of Business and Procedures, 1938, p. 5).
Ganga Singh, a lower house MP elected in 1936 from Mandalay, has pro-
vided in his Burma Parliamentary Companion a description of the layout of
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the two houses (Singh, 1940, pp. 368 and 470). The House of Representatives,
the dominant chamber, was loosely designed on the model of the House of
Commons in London. The Speaker sat on an elevated chair at one end of
the assembly hall, with the ceremonial mace lying in front of him when the
parliament was in session. Seats were arranged along two lines of straight
rows facing each other. However, the layout was initially designed in the
1920s for a 103-member unicameral council. More benches and seats were
thus gradually added facing the Speaker at the other end of the assembly
hall in a half-moon shape to accommodate the rising number of representa-
tives. Unlike in the British House of Commons however, there was no large
gangway in the middle of this chamber for clerks to sit at; only a couple sat
around a small desk (Furnivall, 1960, p. 42). On its side, the main room
housing the Senate on the fourth floor of the New Law Courts building was
initially designed in the 1930s as a semi-circular assembly typical of multi-
party parliamentary systems such as the ones observed at the time in conti-
nental Europe.
The last session of the bicameral legislature elected in 1936 convened in
1941, soon before the Japanese invasion. Elections planned for November
1941 were cancelled for the duration of the war (1942–1945). The Secretariat
building suffered heavily from Japanese and Allied bombings during the con-
flict, and the parliament house in its courtyard could therefore not shelter the
legislative council when the returning British Governor reconvened the
assembly after the war, in January 1946.5 It took a year to repair and refurbish
the old parliament chamber. But it was ready to house the 255-seats constitu-
ent assembly tasked after the elections held in April 1947 to draft and vote on
a new constitution for an independent Myanmar.
The Constitution adopted in September 1947 opted for the Westminster
model of parliamentary government and the continuation of a bicameral leg-
islature. The two chambers remained in the same locations designed in the
late colonial period: the New Law Courts building for the 125-member
Chamber of Nationalities, or Lumyo-su Hluttaw, and the Secretariat quadrangle
536 R. EGRETEAU
question three years after the initial decision had been agreed upon. In Sep-
tember 1956, the minister promised the construction would eventually com-
mence in 1958, to mark the 10th anniversary of Myanmar’s independence.19
The debates on the choice of architectural design and aesthetics were revived
in parliament in 1957. U Nu, returning as Prime Minister in June that year, set
up a new parliamentary committee to consider updated proposals for a new
project, and in doing so abandoned the one selected in 1953. In February
1958, the Parliament Construction Committee confirmed the original choice
of location at the crossroads of Prome (Pyay) Road and Ahlone Street in north-
ern Yangon (‘Site marked for new parliament’, 1958).
But once again, the decision to start the construction was postponed in
1958. Personal rivalries and infightings within the ruling party led to severe
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political crisis and the intervention of the armed forces. In September 1958,
the Tatmadaw stepped in and its commander in chief since 1949, General
Ne Win, was elected Premier a month later by the Union parliament gathered
in a joint session. The parliament was however shrewdly maintained in place
by Ne Win for a year and a half until new elections could be held, under mili-
tary control, in February 1960. But the idea of building a new parliamentary
house was put on hold by the military caretaker administration. As soon as
U Nu recovered, for the third time, his Premiership after the military retreated
to its barracks in April 1960, he launched another round of discussions. In par-
ticular, Duwa Zan Hta Sin, a representative from the northern Kachin State,
tabled in September 1960 a motion on the issue in the Chamber of Deputies.
He deplored that after 12 years of independence the country had still no ‘suit-
able’ parliament.20 This was a ‘slur to parliamentarians’, he argued, who had to
cope with the discomfort of having to share each single bench in the house
with seven other MPs.21
Several proposals for a new house were once again examined, in particular
by the National Housing Board and the Institute of Burmese Architects.
Another parliamentary committee, comprised of past and present house
speakers and cabinet ministers, was appointed in August 1960. In December,
it agreed on a new project planning a grandiose house with palatial roofs and
a distinct secretariat building in the forefront. Yet, the project selected was
once more abandoned a few months later, this time for ‘not keeping with
Burmese culture’.22 The Secretary of the Institute of Burmese Architects,
tasked to provide another series of workable sketches, nonetheless confirmed
in a letter to the editor of the English-language daily The Nation that he hoped
to very soon ‘materialize the project so as to have a functional, modern, Bur-
manistic building’.23 A young architect, Bilal Raschid, had also attempted to
propose his own plans. Son of U Raschid, a former anti-colonial leader and
key post-independence Muslim politician, he had been conferred a degree
in architecture from the University of Liverpool in 1961, thanks to the
design of an original parliamentary house.24 Using his father’s political
540 R. EGRETEAU
of 400 persons, would serve for joint sessions of the Union legislature. The
Chamber of Nationalities would have displayed a similar layout but with
smaller dimensions. A cafeteria, a library for 10,000 volumes, eight separate
rooms for the private use of political parties, and residential quarters for the
speakers and deputy speakers (‘with tennis courts and flower gardens’)
were also mentioned.27
But two months after the project was voted, the coup d’état staged by the
Tatmadaw on 2 March 1962 not only cancelled, once more, the construction, it
also dissolved the parliament. A decade of prolonged discussions, red tape,
and the incapacity to settle on one specific project and effectively start the
construction of a new house on time revealed the complexities and flaws of
the early policymaking process of Myanmar’s post-independence adminis-
tration. The delays seemed also to have been linked to the potentially disrup-
tive re-organization of a bicameral legislature, which convened and
functioned only 8–10 weeks a year in the 1950s. In the end, it illustrated
how hesitant and undecided were Myanmar’s first post-independence steps
toward parliamentary democracy.
Figure 2. Interior of the former People’s Congress (1974–1988), now Yangon’s regional
parliament (picture by author).
their respective state and divisions.30 This was, however, a novel chamber
layout that departed from the early British bipartisan legacies adopted by
Myanmar’s post-independence parliaments. How parliamentary delegates
are seated in the house is politically connoted and decided upon by planners
and architects well before a new legislature meets. Myanmar was home in the
1970s and 1980s to a single-party system with no legal opposition. There was
therefore no need to follow the Westminster arrangement with two parlia-
mentary sides facing each other inside the chamber. As an editorial of the
BSPP-run Working People’s Daily explained in March 1974:
To those accustomed to party conflicts, lobbying, bargaining and floor crossings
of the parliaments, the Hluttaw session may seem to lack lustre and liveliness.
Because Burma has adopted a one-party system, such activities are out of the
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It was not until the last BSPP parliament (elected in October 1985) that the
BSPP parliamentarians moved to a newly built, half-moon shaped amphithea-
tre.31 Data on the nature of the internal debates over the delayed construction
of the new house during the BSPP era remain however scarce and difficult to
assess. It took Ne Win’s regime more than a decade to finally construct a new
assembly hall for the Pyithu Hluttaw.32 For the first time the parliament house
adopted an arc-of-circle assembly with the presiding officers sitting on an
elevated chair, facing the MPs in their consecutive semi-circles of seat rows.
This new interior layout has remained the norm ever since. The new
amphitheatre built in 1985 did not have, however, much time to fulfil its
duties. In September 1988, the Tatmadaw seized power after another coup
d’état and dissolved the BSPP unicameral body. The chamber built in 1985
would not be used as a legislative building until the convening of Yangon’s
novel provincial parliament in 2011, more than two decades later. Even the
National Convention, the hand-picked assembly tasked by the post-1988
junta to draft a new constitution in 1992, did not convene there. Instead,
the 700-member constituent assembly gathered between 1993 and 1996 in
the central meeting hall of Yangon’s presidential complex, where the BSPP
Central Committee used to hold its congresses.33
military regime to erect a new capital city illustrated the willingness of its elites
to commemorate, re-appropriate, and re-invent Myanmar’s ancient glories
and move past the British colonial legacies (Preecharushh, 2009; Tainturier,
2014). This was not the first time in the country’s ancient history that a
capital was replaced with another one, far from it (Lieberman, 1980). By
mixing postcolonial chauvinism, karmic Buddhism, and historical mysticism,
the junta that succeeded Ne Win’s regime in 1988 has frequently attempted
to reproduce, and re-interpret, the many histories of the Bamar in order to fit
into it (Houtman, 1999; Maung, 1999). Through the relocation of a capital, the
need to revive the old monarchist traditions of building new centres of Bamar
power was just being re-invented by Myanmar’s most contemporary military
chiefs.
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Among the many official buildings constructed during the 2000s in the vast
plain that now forms the city of Naypyitaw, the new Union parliament, or Pyi-
daungsu Hluttaw, stands above. A new parliament should ‘take your breath
away’, in the words of Kim Dovey, who used the neo-Gothic majesty of the
Westminster palace as the perfect illustration (Dovey, 1999, p. 55). This was
obviously the case for Naypyitaw’s grandiose new parliamentary compound,
comprising 31 massive palace-style buildings. In Buddhist societies, the
number 31 is not trivial. The Buddhist cosmology enumerates 31 ‘planes of
existence’ into which beings are reborn until they can escape them, and
the seemingly endless cycles of re-birth, to attain Nirvana. Human beings
are said to be located in the fifth plane of existence. This led Aung Zaw, a
veteran Burmese dissident and political commentator, to quip about the
long way ahead before Myanmar and its out-of-touch leaders could escape
from the 31 parliamentary buildings and terminate the endless cycles of
their country’s sufferings (Zaw, 2010).
In 2009, a year-and-a-half before the novel legislature convened for the first
time, Myanmar’s central bank introduced a 5000 kyat banknote. On the back
of it, an image of the new parliamentary buildings was printed, revealing the
significance that the junta intended to give the soon-to-be shaped legislature.
Preparing its gradual, yet partial, withdrawal from a power it had seized in
1988, the Tatmadaw designed, and followed from 2003, a road map to a ‘dis-
cipline-flourishing democracy’. The roadmap outlined a transitional process
which would end with the installation of a post-junta parliamentary system
of government (Egreteau, 2016). Even before the official inauguration of the
new parliament in Naypyitaw, criticism of the gigantic structure was rife,
though. Detractors not only lambasted the compound’s allegedly pharaonic
expenses, but ridiculed its disproportion (‘Myanmar’s new capital’, 2008).
Reporters allowed to attend the new legislature’s first session, which con-
vened on 31 January 2011 after controversial elections had been held three
months earlier, were stunned (‘A parliament’, 2011). One NLD lawmaker
elected in the 2012 by-elections grumbled:
544 R. EGRETEAU
This place is huge and shameful. This is not the kind of facilities we need, this is a
‘royal palace’! […] There is a lot of window-dressing and old-fashioned politics.
[…] The set-up of the chambers is also not conducive enough for proper discus-
sion and the sessions look like ‘rehearsals’. 34
Figure 3. Main entrance of the new Pyidaungsu Hluttaw building, Naypyitaw (picture by
author, November 2016).
of the 1970s and 1980s, but also of the bipartisan colonial heritage. Besides,
the entrenchment of ethnic politics in postcolonial Myanmar and the consti-
tutionally mandated presence of the armed forces in the post-junta legisla-
ture, as outlined by the constitution adopted in 2008, could not allow a
return to a simple two-row type of chamber layout.
The shaping of Naypyitaw as Myanmar’s new capital city in the 2000s also
exemplified the articulation between ethnic Bamar national symbolisms and
the representational ideals of the elites that have ruled Myanmar for half a
century. The new parliament’s structures, designs, arts, and interior aesthetics
all represent the national identity promoted by a long dominant ethnic Bamar
Buddhist establishment. Beside the architecture and inside layout of the three
chambers, the iconography and decoration displayed in the complex are a
tribute to royal Bamar traditions and the Buddhist canons revered by the
majority of the country’s population. In the middle of the Pyidaungsu Hluttaw’s
entrance hall stands a massive 8-meter high golden hsun-ok, a traditional ped-
estal-bowl used for offerings to the Buddha or the Sangha, the community of
monks. These typically Burmese artefacts, filled with food donations, flowers
and gifts, are commonly placed on altars next to a Buddha image. As pointed
out by Nirmal Puwar about Westminster, even the texture of the walls of a leg-
islative chamber can shape collective memories and reveal cultural histories
(Puwar, 2010). The Buddhist-inspired iconography on display reflects Myanmar’s
dominant religious traditions, which the ruling elites who have designed the
post-junta state institutions have long aimed to uphold.
546 R. EGRETEAU
symbol of what Myanmar’s ruling military and political elites have so far obsti-
nately aimed to show to the people, and to the world: modern grandeur, pres-
tigious Bamar royal traditions and Buddhist-inspired tenets.
Conclusion
The external architecture, inside layout and designs of Myanmar’s successive
parliament buildings have corresponded to different phases of the country’s
political history. The lengthy search for a new legislative house in the early
post-independence years has underscored how decolonisation processes,
cultural nationalism, and a flawed nation-building have influenced public
architecture in Myanmar. The repeated postponements and wrangling over
the design and cost of each project proposed in the 1950s have, in a sense,
illustrated Myanmar’s hesitant steps toward parliamentary and representative
democracy, and the failure of its first postcolonial elites to build a cohesive
independent nation. Yet, public architecture has continued to serve as a
key expression of the national identity and power ambitions of the successive
political and military leaderships that have ruled Myanmar, particularly since
the coup d’état staged by the armed forces in 1962.
The promise to design a parliamentary house worthy of a powerful state
and representing the values and ideals of its ruling class – long dominated
by Buddhist and ethnic Bamar communities – appeared to have been even-
tually fulfilled in the 2000s. The military junta in power between 1988 and
2011 chose to build an extravagant parliament house in its new eerie
capital city of Naypyitaw not only to provide Myanmar with a new iconic
building, a prominent architectural symbol of the state, whose image could
even be printed on banknotes. It also suggested that a new post-junta era
of ‘disciplined’ democratisation could emerge from the construction of a
new legislative space and seat of popular representation by an authoritarian
government shaping on its own, and without opposition, the institutions of
the regime that would succeed it in the 2010s.
COMMONWEALTH & COMPARATIVE POLITICS 547
Notes
1. Interview with author, Naypyitaw, January 2014. Su Su Lwin was first elected to
the lower house in April 2012, as NLD representative for Thongwa, a rural con-
stituency north of Yangon.
2. For linguistic simplicity and without any political connotation, I use the English
adjectives ‘Burmese’ and ‘Burman’. ‘Burmese’ refers to the citizenship and
common language of the people of present-day Myanmar, while ‘Burman’
more specifically designates the ethnic Bamar majority of the country, where
non-Burman ethnic minorities, such as the Karens and Kachins, also dwell.
Myanmar is the country’s official post-1989 appellation, and admitted as such
henceforth. ‘Yangon’ is the vernacular term for the English ‘Rangoon’.
3. Before 1897, the head of the colonial executive and leading administrator of
British Burma had only the rank of ‘Chief Commissioner’. Burma was elevated
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Acknowledgments
The author would like to thank Christina Fink, Robert Taylor, Bilal Raschid, David Stein-
berg, Soe Thwin Tun, Thant Myint-U, the editors and the two anonymous reviewers for
their constructive comments.
Disclosure statement
No potential conflict of interest was reported by the author.
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