Food Conrrol, Vol. 6. No. 2. pp. 105-110.

1995
Elsevier Science Ltd
Printed in Great Britain
O95h-7135195 flO.0 + 0.00

PAPER

Flavour evaluation of chocolate

formulated from cocoa beans
from different countries
S. Jinap’, P.S. Dimick** and R. Hollender$

Flavour characteristics of the chocolate made from 14 dried, fermented cocoa bean
samples from eight different countries of origin and the relationship with pH,
titratable acidity and acetic and lactic acid were studied. The fermented dried
cocoa beans were processed into semi-sweet dark chocolate and were evaluated for
their flavour difference by the multiple comparison test using the Ghanaian sample
as a reference. The descriptors and the intensities of the chocolate flavour
perceived by the taste panel members were also obtained. There was no correlation
between the flavour score and the pH, tritratable acidity, acetic and lactic acid
concentrations. The study found that chocolate samples made from the tow pH
(4.75-5.19) and high pH (5.50-5.80) cocoa beans have low response in strong
chocolate flavour. On the other hand, chocolate samples made from the Ghanaian
and Nigerian beans which have medium pH values of 5.20-5.49 received a high
response in strong chocolate flavour. More off-fl avour descriptors were perceived
from chocolate samples made from low-pH cocoa beans.

Keywords: chocolate; flavour; acidity

INTRODUCTION described as flowery, green, roasty, malty, caramel and

Flavour precursors are formed during prefermentation,
fermentation and drying processes and these com-
pounds later react with each other during roasting to
produce chocolate flavour. Chocolate flavour is a com-
bination of sub-flavours (descriptors), a few of which
are inherent in the harvested bean itself and the
majority of which are developed during fermentation
and further processing (especially roasting) into choco-
late (Lopez and McDonald, 1981). During roasting, the
flavour precursors interact and enhance each other to
develop a pleasant sensory impression that may be
‘Department of Food Science, University of Agriculture,
43400 UPM, Serdang, Selangor, Malaysia and $Department
of Food Science, The Pennsylvania State University, Uni-
versity Park, PA 16802, USA. *To whom correspondence
should be addressed. Received 1 June 1993; revised 7 July
1994; accepted 8 July 1994
nutty. These flavours interact with the tastes of the
non-volatile constituents, especially the acidic flavour
from the residual organic acids, and the purine and
polyphenol bitterness. The melting behaviour of the fat
phase also is responsible for the feeling in the mouth
that cocoa and chocolate produce. Some of these
flavours such as acidic and bitterness however, can be
detrimental to the chocolate flavour if they are present
in excess amounts.
Acetic and lactic acids have been implicated as
possible causes of high acidic flavour in cocoa beans.
Some researchers suggest that only acetic acid is impor-
tant because it is present in high concentration and
tastes more acidic than other acids (Biehl, 1965; Jinap
and Dimick, 1990; Lopez, 1983; Rohan and Stewart,
1964). Other researchers believe that, because of the
lower volatility of lactic acid, this acid is responsible for
the acidic flavour (Dittmar, 1963; Li and Lee, 1982; Li
et al., 1983). Carr and Dougan (1977), Chong et al.

Food Control 1995 Volume 6 Number 2 105

Flavour evaluation of chocolate: S. Jinap et al.
(1980) and Lopez (1983) believe that both acetic and
lactic acids contribute to the acidic flavour.
Flavour quality of chocolate usually depends on the
sources of the cocoa beans; beans from different origins
have been shown to have distinct flavour characteristics
such as acidic, hammy or smokey (Powell, 1983). These
beans can be used only in limited amount and have to
be blended with other sources. This study was therefore
conducted to determine the sensory characteristics of
the chocolate made from cocoa bean samples from
different countries of origin and to study the possible
relationship with the acidity characteristics: pH, titrat-
able acidity and acetic and lactic acids. The findings of
the study could be used by chocolate manufacturers to
control the sensory quality of the chocolate. The pro-
ducing countries could also use the information to
improve cocoa bean quality by controlling the post-
handling, fermentation and drying processes practised
in the respective countries.
MATERIALS AND METHODS
Bean samples
A total of 14 samples of dried, fermented beans from
eight countries were coded as soon as they were
received. Samples from Brazil (Bahia and Para), In-
donesia, Ghana, Nigeria, Cameroon, Ecuador and
Dominican Republic (Sanchez and Hispaniola) were
obtained. Samples from Malaysia were obtained from
five different fermentaries in that country.
Chocolate formulation
The whole bean samples were roasted for 30 min in a
Stabil-therm oven (Blue M Electric Co., Blue Island,
IL, USA) using an air temperature of 150°C. The beans
were deshelled by hand and the nibs were ground in a
Waring Blendor and passed through a 20-mesh-size
screen. The ground nibs were then mixed with cane
sugar and passed through a three-roll refiner. Deodo-
rized cocoa butter was melted in a Z-blade mixer and
melanged for 90 min with the sugar-nib mixture. The
formula used was a ratio of nib:sugar:cocoa butter of
1.0:1.4:0.4 with total fat of 32%. The chocolate was
then tempered and molded into 10 x 5 cm bars which
were segmented into 10 squares. The moulded, tem-
pered chocolate was wrapped in aluminum foil and
maintained at 7°C until evaluated.
Sensory evaluation
A total of 24 panel members with previous experience
in sensory evaluation were trained to taste several
chocolate formulations. The sample made from Gha-
naian beans was selected as the reference in subsequent
sensory evaluations. Characteristic flavour notes (de-
scriptors) of the samples were also discussed and
recorded during the sessions. Chocolate flavour was
106 Food Control 1995 Volume 6 Number 2
classified as strong, moderate and weak, whereas other
flavour descriptors were classified as acidic, bitter,
fruity, burnt, hammy, musty, nutty and sweet.
The chocolate samples were brought to room
temperature (25+OS”C) prior to sensory evaluation.
Random samples were prepared by cutting the choco-
late bar into squares. Three squares per sample were
presented to each panelist. A maximum of three choco-
late samples were evaluated in each session to reduce
perception fatigue. Warm water was used for rinsing
between sample tasting. The panel members performed
a multiple comparison test for flavour preference. They
were required to taste each sample and compare it to a
reference sample, then indicate whether it was better
than, more flavourful, equal to, or inferior to, the
reference in terms of flavour using a scale of 1 to 9; 1 to
4 for inferior flavour (1 = extremely, 2 = much, 3 =
moderately and 4 = slightly), 5 for no difference in
flavour, and 6 to 9 for better flavour (6 = slightly, 7 =
moderately, 8 = much and 9 = extremely).
Chemical analysis
The pH, titratable acidity, acetic and lactic acids were
determined as described previously by Jinap and
Dimick (1990). In summary, bean samples were pulver-
ized in boiling water, filtered and the pH was mea-
sured. Titratable acidity was determined on the extract
with 0.10 M sodium hydroxide to an end-point of pH
8.0. The volatile acids were isolated from an acidified
aqueous extract of distillation, converted to barium
salts, reduced in volume, acidified and assayed with
rerr-butylacetate as an internal standard, using gas
chromatography. The acidic fraction of the non-volatile
extract was assayed on an Aminex resin (BioRad) using
high-performance liquid chromatography with standard
organic acids for quantification.
Statistical analysis
The data were statistically analysed using a Statistical
Analysis System (SAS Institute Inc., Cary, NY, USA).
The separation of the means was accomplished by
Duncan’s multiple range test.
RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
Figure I shows the mean flavour score of the chocolate
samples from the different origins, arranged from low
to high pH. Chocolate made from Ghanaian and
Nigerian beans were preferred significantly more than
other samples (p<O.O5). These findings substantiate
claims that cocoa beans produced by these countries
yield the best flavoured chocolate. There was no signifi-
cant preference between chocolates made from Brazil-
ian (Para), Indonesian and Malaysian IV beans.
Chocolate made from Malaysian I and V and Domini-
can Republic (Hispaniola) beans were the least prefer-
red when compared to other samples. Variations in
 Flavour evaluation of chocolate: S. Jinap et al.

Samples

Figure 1 Average flavour score of chocolate samples from different origins using multiple comparison (reference = Ghana)

Table 1 Correlation of flavour score (multiple comparison) Of ranging from 1542%. In general, the percentage re-
chocolate with other parameters of the cocoa beans sponse of acidic note showed a positive trend with
Correlation acidity (decrease in pH and increase in titratable acid-
Parameters coefficient ity) and an inverse relationship to strong chocolate
flavour. This can be observed in samples from the
PH 0.094
Titratable acidity -0.291 Dominican Republic in which Hispaniola had signifi-
Lactic acid -0.524 cantly lower pH and higher titratable acidity than
Acetic acid -0.169
Sanchez; consequently, the former was perceived acidic
and had a high response of strong chocolate flavour
whereas the latter was perceived non-acidic and lacking
flavour preference were observed even in samples from
the same country. For example, the flavour score of Table 2 Acetic and lactic acids of cocoa beans classified by country
samples from Malaysia ranged from 2.3 to 3.7 and from of origin and pH range
the Dominican Republic from 2.3 to 3.5, out of a full Titratable
score of 9. The variation could be due to many factors acidity Acetic Lactic
such as fermentation technique, type of beans, climate, (meq NaOH/g acid acid
Sample pH sample) (g/l00 8) (g/l00 g)
soil conditions, etc.
The study also showed no consistent trend between Low pH (4.75-5.19)
the acidity (pH and titratable acidity) of the beans and Brazil
Bahia 4.88 0.193 0.79 0.26
the flavour preference of the chocolate made therefrom Para 4.65 0.204 0.83 0.26
(Table I and Figure I). The interpretation of these Malaysia
results is that the acidity of the dried beans may not be I 4.66 0.209 0.69
II 4.85 0.193 0.64 0.38
reflected in the chocolate flavour preference. This view III 4.64 0.231 0.92 0.61
is supported by observations that show no significant IV 4.82 0.179 0.60 0.36
difference between the sensory score, pH and titratable East Cameroon 5.00 0.166 0.55 0.25
Indonesia 4.76 0.185 0.87 0.27
acidity (Table 2). As with pH and titratable acidity, no Dominican Republic
consistent trend was obtained between acetic and lactic Hispaniola 4.86 0.175 0.73 0.34
acid concentrations and the flavour score (Table I).
Medium pH (5.20-5.49)
The flavour score also was shown not to be significantly Ghana 5.42 0.166 0.53 0.20
correlated with acetic and lactic acid concentrations Nigeria 5.45 0.134 0.42 0.26
(Table 2).
High pH (5.5&5.80)
Figure 2u-2i shows the response from panel members Dominican Republic
on chocolate samples made from low-pH range beans. Sanchez 5.97 0.097 0.38 0.25
Except for the sample from Cameroon, other samples Ecuador 5.59 0.109 0.52 0.29
Malaysia V 5.52 0.136 0.53 0.37
in this group had a high percentage of acid flavour note

Food Control 1995 Volume 6 Number 2 107

Flavour evaluation of chocolate: S. Jinap ef al.

(a) (b)
32r 3Or
:: 26-
2a-

26 24 -
ii 22 -

& 20

fi 1:
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a” 12
IO

8
4
2
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Flavour descriptors and intensity Flavour descriptors and intensity

(4

10

5
n

Flavour descriptors and intensity Flavour descriptors and intensity

W (9
40
24 -
22 - 35
20-
30
18 -
Q 25
2
2fi 20

a” I5

Flavour descriptors and intensity Flavour descriptors and intensity

Figure 2 (a)-(f) Intensity of flavour descriptor and chocolate flavour of low-pH beans. (a) Bahia (Brazil); (b) Para (Brazil); (c) Malaysia II; (d)
Malaysia I; (e) Malaysia IV; (f) Malaysia III; (g) Indonesia; (h) Cameroon; (i) Dominican Rep. (Hispaniola)

in strong chocolate flavour. The study also observed
that all samples in this group had a high percentage of
off-flavour such as hammy, burnt and musty. Although
the sample from Cameroon had a low percentage of
response for acidic note (4%) the sample had a higher
percentage of other off-flavour notes, hammy (23%),
burnt (20%) and musty (31%) (Figure 2h) compared to
other samples in the same group; these off-flavour
notes could mask the acidic flavour present in the
sample. The hammy or smokey notes in Brazilian beans
have been reported by Lopez and McDonald (1981).
The flavour could be caused by adsorption of phenols
from smoke during the drying of cocoa or be generated
from isovaleric and isobutyric acids.
The responses from the panel on chocolate made
from medium-pH range beans are shown in Figure 3a
and 36 (Ghana and Nigeria, respectively). Both sam-
ples had no acidic, hammy, musty or weak chocolate

108 Food Control 1995 Volume 6 Number 2

 Flavour evaluation of chocolate: S. Jinap et al.

(ia W
40 32-
30 -
35 28 -
26 -
30 24 -
22 -
* 25
2
z 20
ii
&J 15

10

Flavour descriptors and intensity

0)

Ftavour descriptors and intensity Figure 2 (cons) (g)-(i)

flavour, but had a high response for strong chocolate
flavour and a low percentage response of bitter fl avour
note. This could explain the high flavour score obtained
during the preference test of the same samples.
The high-pH range samples had a high percentage of
bitter and burnt flavour, a high percentage of weak
chocolate flavour and a low response of strong choco-
late flavour when compared to medium-pH range
samples (Figure 4a-k). In addition, these samples had
a low percentage of acid flavour note (4%) and a
significantly high percentage of musty note (30% for
Sanchez and Ecuador, 80% for Malaysia V). These
samples were shown to be underfermented and low in
acidity (Shamsuddin and Dimick, 1986; Jinap and
Dimick, 1990, 1991), which could be part of the reason
for the bitter flavour and lack of strong chocolate
flavour .
Conclusions
The study indicates that chocolate flavour is not influ-
enced by pH, titratable acidity, or acetic and lactic acid

6) W
30 35’
28
26
30 -
24 1
24
20-
gm-
E 16-
: 14-
5 12-
a lo-
8r
6 I
4 5-
2
0 0 8
2 j g d$
‘Z $ji;$jf
z
4 CiSL
Flavour descriptors and intensity
Figure 3 Intensity of flavour descriptor and chocolate flavour of medium-pH beans. (a) Nigeria; (b) Ghana

Food Control 1995 Volume 6 Number 2 109

Flavour evaluation of chocolate: S. Jinap el al.
Flavour descriptors and intensity
Flavour descriptors and intensity
concentrations of the respective dried beans. Chocolate
made from cocoa bean samples originating from differ-
ent countries were shown to have distinct flavour
characteristics. For example, cocoa beans from West
African countries had a strong chocolate flavour,
whereas high acidic beans produced by some countries
contain many objectionable flavours, such as, hammy,
burnt and musty. Fermentation and drying practices,
which are usually unique to each country, will deter-
mine the flavour quality of the chocolate made from the
respective beans. Therefore, critical factors during
these processing steps such as bean depth, turning
regimes and period of processing should be controlled.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
The authors thank Pennsylvania State University and
the University of Agriculture, Malaysia for funding the
research.
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Carr, J.G. and Dougan, J. (1977) The Cocoa Bean Acidity Problem
in Malaysia. Mimeographed report, Cocoa, Chocolate and Con-
110 Food Control 1995 Volume 6 Number 2
Flavour descriptors and intensity
Figure 4 Intensity of flavour descriptor and chocolate flavour of
high-pH beans. (a) Dominican Republic (Sanchez); (b) Ecuador; (c)
Malaysia V
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Chong, C.F., Shepherd, R. and Poon, Y.C. (1980) Mitigation of
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