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COLLECTION FW16

BIRK CARDIGAN
BY O LG A B U R AYA- K E F E L I A N
SIZE
To fit bust 32 (36, 40, 44, 48)"

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
43 (47, 51, 55, 59)" bust circumference

YA R N
Woolfolk Fr (100% Ovis 21 Ultimate Merino, 142 yds/130 m per 50 g
skein)
11 (13, 14, 15, 16) skeins in color no. 1

Woolfolk Sno (100% Ovis 21 Ultimate Merino, 223 yds/205 m per 50 g


skein)
6 (7, 8, 8, 9) skeins in color no. 1+15

NEEDLES AND NOTIONS


Size 8 (5 mm) circular needle, 24" or longer
Size 9 (5.5 mm) circular needle, 24" or longer
Stitch markers, tapestry needle, waste yarn, stitch holders
Size I (5.5 mm) crochet hook
8 (8, 8.5, 8.5, 9)" of " wide grosgrain ribbon or twill tape
Sewing needle and thread

GAUGE
16 sts and 25 rows = 4" in St st on larger needle with one strand of each
yarn held together, blocked

NOTES
Body is worked in one piece to the underarm, then divided and fronts and
back worked separately to the shoulder.

Circular needles are used to accommodate the width of the piece. Shoul-
ders are shaped with German short rows, then joined using a three-nee-
dle bind off. Sleeves are worked flat from the wrist up and seamed.
Ribbed front bands are knitted in one with the body.

Work with one strand of each yarn held together throughout.

Copyright 2016. Woolfolk and Olga Buraya-Kefelian. All rights reserved. The pattern and charts contained in this document are property
of Woolfolk and Olga Buraya-Kefelian. This pattern is available for personal use only. Unauthorized reproduction, in whole or in part, or
distribution via copier, fax or via email is prohibited. Not to be used to create garments for commercial sale. www.woolfolkyarn.com

PA G E 2
BIRK
CARDIGAN

STITCHES AND TECHNIQUES


CROCHET CHAIN CAST ON THREE NEEDLE BIND OFF
established rib to end. 1 st decd; 180 (196, 212, 228, 244) sts.
With crochet hook, make a slip knot loop. Holding the Have the two pieces to be joined on separate needles held
knitting needle in your left hand, and the crochet hook in Next row (WS): Work in established rib to band m, sl m, [p to
together in the left hand with right sides facing. Using a third
your right hand, bring the yarn behind the needle. *With side m, sl m, k1, p1, k1, sl m] twice, p to band m, sl m, work in
needle, insert into first st on front needle, then first st on back
the crochet hook in front of the needle, wrap the yarn over rib to end.
needle and knit them together. *Insert into next st on front
the needle and the hook, and pull loop through. 1 st has Continue as set, working body in St st with front bands and
needle, then next st on back needle and knit them togeth-
been cast on the needle. Bring the yarn back between the a 3-st panel at each side in rib, until piece measures 9" from
er, then pass first st on right needle over second to BO 1 st.
needle and hook and repeat from * until you have cast on CO, ending with a WS row.
the required number of stitches less one. For the final stitch, Repeat from *.
transfer the loop from the crochet hook to the needle. Pocket openings:

K 1 , P 1 R I B ( M U LT I P L E O F 2 S T S + 1 )
DIRECTIONS (Optional; also note that our model is 5'11" with correspond-
B O DY ingly long arms, so those of average height may like their
Row 1 (RS): Sl 1 pwise wyib, *p1, k1; rep from * to end.
Row 2 (WS): Sl 1 pwise wyif, *k1, p1; rep from * to end. Using the crochet chain method, smaller needle, and one pockets higher, perhaps at 10" from CO.)
Rep Rows 1-2 for patt. strand of each yarn held together, CO 181 (197, 213, 229, 245) Next row (RS): Work to band m, sl m, k10 (12, 14, 16, 18), knit
sts. Work in K1, P1 Rib for 2, ending with a WS row. the next 17 sts with waste yarn, then place those waste yarn
GERMAN SHORT ROWS sts back onto left needle and knit them with main yarn, work
German wrap: Sl 1 pwise wyif, pull yarn up and over needle Change to larger needle. across remainder of right front and back to last side m, sl
to back, drawing the two "legs" of the slipped stitch up. Set-up row (RS): Work in established rib for 12 sts, pm for front m, k6 (8, 10, 12, 14), knit the next 17 sts with waste yarn, then
This creates what looks like a double stitch. band, k33 (37, 41, 45, 49), pm for side, p1, k1, p1, pm for side, place those waste yarn sts back onto left needle and knit
k42 (46, 50, 54, 58), ssk, k41 (45, 49, 53, 57), pm for side, p1, k1, them with main yarn, work to end.
When you work back over the double stitch later, knit or purl p1, pm for side, k33 (37, 41, 45, 49), pm for front band, work in
it through both legs.

PA G E 3
S C H E M AT I C
7.5 (8.5, 9.25, 10.25, 11)" Work even until body measures 20" from CO, ending with a Sizes - (47, 51, 55, 59)" only:
WS row. Short row 1 (WS): Work to last st, turn.
7 (7, 7.5, 7.5, 8)" Short row 2 (RS): German wrap first st, work to end.
Shape V-neck: Short row 3: Work to 1 st before previous wrapped st, turn.
Neck dec row (RS): Work to band m, sl m, k1, k2tog, work to Short row 4: German wrap first st, work to end.

15.75 (16.25, 16.75, 17.25, 17.75)"


4.75"

3 sts before second band m, ssk, k1, sl m, work to end. 2 sts Rep the last 2 rows - (10, 7, 3, 0) more times.
dec'd. Next short row (WS): Work to 2 sts before previous wrapped
7 (7.5, 8, 8.5, 9)"

Work 17 (17, 17, 17, 15) rows even. st, turn.


Repeat neck dec row. 176 (192, 208, 224, 240) sts. Next short row (RS): German wrap first st, work to end.
Work 7 (7, 7, 7, 9) rows even, ending with a WS row. Body Rep the last 2 rows - (2, 5, 9, 12) more times.
should measure approx. 24" from CO.
All sizes:
Divide fronts and back (RS): Work to first side m, remove Neckband:
m, m1R, k2, place the 46 (50, 54, 58, 62) sts on right needle Next row (WS): Work to band m, remove m, place the next 30
on a holder for right front leaving band m in place, k1, m1L, (34, 37, 41, 44) sts on a holder for shoulder. 12 band sts rem
remove m, work across back to side m, remove m, m1R, k1, on needle.
place the 88 (96, 104, 112, 120) sts on right needle on a hold- Change to smaller needle and work even in rib for 3.5 (3.5,
24"

er for back, k2, m1L, remove m, work to end. 46 (50, 54, 58, 3.75, 3.75, 4)". Cut yarn and place sts on a separate holder.
62) sts rem on needle for left front.
RIGHT FRONT
LEFT FRONT Read through this section before continuing: neck and
Read through this section before continuing: neck and shoulder shaping are worked simultaneously.
shoulder shaping are worked simultaneously.
Place 46 (50, 54, 58, 62) held sts on needle and join yarn
Continuing in St st with band sts in rib, work 9 (9, 9, 9, 5) rows with WS facing.
21.5 (23.5, 25.5, 27.5, 29.5)" even, ending with a WS row.
Neck dec row (RS): Work to 3 sts before band m, ssk, k1, sl m Shape neck:
work to end. 1 st dec'd. Continuing in St st with band sts in rib, work 9 (9, 9, 9, 5) rows
13.25 (14.25, 15.25, 16.25, 17.25)"
Rep neck dec row on every 18 (18, 16, 16, 16)th row 3 (3, 4, 4, even, ending with a WS row.
2) more times, then every - (-, -, -, 14)th row - (-, -, -, 3) times. Neck dec row (RS): Work to band m, sl m, k1, k2tog, work to
42 (46, 49, 53, 56) sts. end. 1 st dec'd.
Rep neck dec row on every 18 (18, 16, 16, 16)th row 3 (3, 4, 4,
AT THE SAME TIME, when armhole measures 7 (7.5, 8, 8.5, 2) more times, then every - (-, -, -, 14)th row - (-, -, -, 3) times.
9)" ending with a RS row, shape shoulder: 42 (46, 49, 53, 56) sts.
18"

Size 43" only: AT THE SAME TIME, when armhole measures 7 (7.5, 8, 8.5,
Short row 1 (WS): Work to last st, turn. 9)" ending with a WS row, shape shoulder:
Short row 2 (RS): German wrap first st, work to end.
Short row 3: Work to previous wrapped st, turn. Size 43" only:
Short row 4: German wrap first st, work to end. Short row 1 (RS): Work to last st, turn.
Short row 5: Work to 1 st before previous wrapped st, turn. Short row 2 (WS): German wrap first st, work to end.
8.25 (8.75, 9.25, 9.75, 10.25)" Short row 6: German wrap first st, work to end. Short row 3: Work to previous wrapped st, turn.
Rep the last 2 rows 12 more times. Short row 4: German wrap first st, work to end.

PA G E 4
Short row 5: Work to 1 st before previous wrapped st, turn. Sizes - (47, 51, 55, 59)" only: knit 1 st at left-hand side of opening. 19 sts. Beg with a WS
Short row 6: German wrap first st, work to end. Short row 1 (RS): Work to last st, turn. row, work in K1, P1 Rib for 6 rows. BO all sts in rib using larger
Rep the last 2 rows 12 more times. Short row 2 (WS): German wrap first st, work to last st, turn. needle.
Short row 3 (RS): German wrap first st, work to 1 st before
Sizes - (47, 51, 55, 59)" only: previous wrapped st, turn. POCKET LINING
Short row 1 (RS): Work to last st, turn. Short row 4 (WS): German wrap first st, work to 1 st before Place 18 held sts on smaller needle with WS facing. Pick up
Short row 2 (WS): German wrap first st, work to end. previous wrapped st, turn. and knit 1 st at right-hand side of opening, p18, pick up and
Short row 3: Work to 1 st before previous wrapped st, turn. Rep the last 2 rows - (10, 7, 3, 0) more times. knit 1 st at left-hand side of opening. 20 sts. Continue in St st
Short row 4: German wrap first st, work to end. Next short row (RS): German wrap first st, work to 2 sts be- for 5.
Rep the last 2 rows - (10, 7, 3, 0) more times. fore previous wrapped st, turn. BO.
Next short row (RS): Work to 2 sts before previous wrapped Next short row (WS): German wrap first st, work to 2 sts
st, turn. before previous wrapped st, turn. Steam-block pocket. With a single strand of Sno threaded
Next short row (WS): German wrap first st, work to end. Rep the last 2 rows - (2, 5, 9, 12) more times. on a tapestry needle, slip stitch the short edges of the trim
Rep the last 2 rows - (2, 5, 9, 12) more times. to the RS of the coat and slip stitch the pocket lining in place
on the WS, taking care not to let stitches show on RS.
All sizes:
All sizes: Next row (RS): German wrap first st, BO 28 (28, 30, 30, 32)
Join shoulders using a three needle bind off, taking care to
Neckband: sts. Cut yarn and place rem 30 (34, 37, 41, 44) sts for each knit through both legs of each double stitch left from the
Next row (RS): Work to band m, remove m, place the next 30 shoulder on holders. short row shaping. Using a single strand of Sno, mattress
(34, 37, 41, 44) sts on a holder for shoulder. 12 band sts rem stitch the neckband in place along the back neck, matching
on needle. SLEEVES grafted seam to center back.
Change to smaller needle and work even in rib for 3.5 (3.5, Using the crochet chain method and smaller needle, CO 33
3.75, 3.75, 4)". Cut yarn leaving a tail four times the width of (35, 37, 39, 41) sts. Work in K1, P1 Rib for 1.75, ending with a Block body and sleeves to schematic measurements. Using
the band. Thread tail on tapestry needle and graft left and WS row. a single strand of Sno, sew sleeve seams. Set sleeves into
right bands together. armholes.
Change to larger needle and St st.
Fold under " on each end of ribbon and use needle and
BACK Work 8 (8, 6, 6, 6) rows even.
thread to sew in place across back neck from shoulder seam
Replace 88 (96, 104, 112, 120) held sts on needle and join Inc row (RS): K2, m1L, k to last 2 sts, m1R, k2. 2 sts inc'd.
to shoulder seam, slip stitching along both long edges.
yarn with WS facing. Work even in St st until armholes mea- Inc 1 st at each end of every 9 (8, 7, 7, 6)th row 9 (9, 5, 11, 8)
sure 7 (7.5, 8, 8.5, 9), ending with a WS row. more times, then every - (9, 8, 6, 7)th row - (1, 6, 1, 5) times,
working WS inc rows as: P2, m1LP, p to last 2 sts, m1RP, p2.
Shape shoulders: 53 (57, 61, 65, 69) sts.
Size 43" only: Work even until sleeve measures 18" from CO.
Short row 1 (RS): Work to last st, turn. BO.
Short row 2 (WS): German wrap first st, work to last st, turn.
Short row 3: German wrap first st, work to previous wrapped
st, turn.
Short row 4: German wrap first st, work to previous wrapped
FINISHING
POCKET TRIM
st, turn.
Carefully remove waste yarn from pocket opening, revealing
Short row 5: German wrap first st, work to 1 st before previ-
17 sts on the lower edge and 18 sts on the top edge. Place
ous wrapped st, turn.
the 18 top sts on a holder for pocket lining. Place 17 lower
Short row 6: German wrap first st, work to 1 st before previ-
sts on smaller needle. With RS facing, pick up and knit 1 st at
ous wrapped st, turn.
right-hand side of opening, [p1, k1] 8 times, p1, pick up and
Rep the last 2 rows 12 more times.

PA G E 5
A B B R E V I AT I O N S
BO bind off
CO cast on
dec(s/'d) decrease(s)/decreased
inc(s/'d) increase(s)/increased
k knit
k2tog knit 2 sts together
kwise knitwise/as if to knit
m marker
m1L make 1 left: with right needle, pick up running thread
between needles from back to front and place it on
left needle, then knit it through the back loop
m1LP make 1 left purl: pick up running thread as for m1L,
purl it through the back loop
m1p make 1 purl: with right needle, pick up running thread
between needles from front to back, place on left needle,
purl it through the front loop.
m1R make 1 right: with right needle, pick up running thread
between needles from front to back, place on left
needle, knit it through the front loop
m1RP make 1 right purl: pick up running thread as for m1R,
purl it through the front loop
p purl
patt pattern
pm place marker
pwise purlwise/as if to purl
rem remain(s)
rep repeat
RS right side
sl slip
ssk [slip 1 as if to knit] 2 times, insert left needle
into fronts of these sts and knit them together
St st stockinette stitch
st(s) stitch(es)
WS wrong side
wyib with yarn in back
wyif with yarn in front

PA G E 6