Spring Summer 2016

Look Around
N7
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MASTHEAD

ESZTER BOLDOV
Editor-in-chief
eszter@philosophy-magazine.com

ANNA KUDRON
Art editor
anna@philosophy-magazine.com

KRISTOF KISS BENEDEK

Graphic design & Layout

IVETT ZAHORJAN
Contributing editor

ESZTER GALAMB
Translation

JULIA BARDKAI
Hungarian language lector

BALINT PETHO, REA FARKAS

Casting

ADVERTISING & PR
info@philosophy-magazine.com

PUBLICATION

VM Model LTD
Budapest

NO PART OF THIS PUBLICATION MAY BE

REPRODUCED WITHOUT
PERMISSION FROM THE PUBLISHER

Cover photo
by NICOLAS KANTOR

Model
YUMI LAMBERT @ THE SQUAD MANAGEMENT

Perfect Timing
N5
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SO MUCH GETS
LOST IN TRANSLATION

Words by Eszter Boldov

Photos by Kirill Kuletski
Styling by Pam Nasr

Nafsika Skourtit sajt weboldala gy mutatja be, mint a lon- Nafsika Skourti is described as the Saint Martins graduate
doni Saint Martins-on vgzett divattervezt, aki flig grg, fashion designer who is half Greek, half Jordanian, and half
flig jordn, flig internet. rdekldsemet leginkbb a flig Internet. It was exactly this half Internet part that tickled my
internet rsz keltette fel, rszben ennek ksznheten kapott imagination, and made me to arrange a virtual chat stretching
szrnyra egy Budapestet s Jordnit sszekt virtulis be- between Budapest and Jordan, expanding from analysing local
szlgets, melyben a tervezvel a helyi idjrs kielemzstl climate to the criticism of government getting manifested in
kormnyzati rendszereinek ruhatervezsben manifesztld clothing design.
kritizlsig jutottunk.
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gy rzem, a nemzetisg fogalma egyre inkbb irrelevnss vlik I feel like the concept of nationalities is becoming more and more
mind szmomra, mind sok krlttem lv ember szmra... Az irrelevant to me and a lot of the people around me My mother
anyukm jordn, az apukm grg, s br mindkt orszghoz r- is Jordanian and my dad is Greek and I do feel a connection to
zek egyfajta ktdst, gy gondolom, sszessgben mgiscsak both those countries but I really feel like weve been raised on the
az interneten nttem fel. A multinacionalits mint a nevelked internet all together Multinationality, as the default character
generci gondolkodst that s j esllyel jvnket megha- defining the future and thinking of the coming generation, is
troz habitus Nafsika Skourti egyedisgnek esszencija. Egy the essence of Nafsika Skourtis individuality. It is nurtured by
kollektv tudatbl tpllkozik, melyben ugyangy mindennapi a collective mind where politics and Kim Kardashians butt are
tma az aktulpolitika, mint Kim Kardashian feneke. equally on topic.

Nafsika nem titkolt misszija a mindennapi letnkben globlisan Nafsikas unconcealed mission is, to analyse global issues and
rzkelhet problmk feldolgozsa, majd kifutra kldse. 9 put them on the runway. In her SS 2014 collection 9 to 5, by
to 5 cmen fut 2014 tavaszi-nyri kollekcijban maszkulin wrapping the masculine suits into surreal patterns, she builds up
ltnyk szrrelis mintkba burkoltsga kelt feszltsget az tension between the urge of turning our dreams to reality and the
lmaink megvalstsra val ksztets s munknk monotoni- true monotony and banality of our daily work. The autumn-winter
tsa, banalitsa kzt. Az szi-tli everything must go hvsz catchphrase everything must go is the precipitation of a more
mr egy szemlyesebb lmny lecsapdsa. Az everything personal experience. For every thing must go my mother got
must go arra reflektl, amikor anyukm slyos beteg lett, ami really sick and it put us (me and my sister and business partner
egy igazi egzisztencialista gondolkodsmdra ksztetett minket Stephanie) in a really existential state of mind. We had to realize
(engem s a nvremet, Stephanie-t, aki az zleti partnerem that nothing lasts forever. There is youth and beauty, death,
is). szre kellett vennnk, hogy semmi sem tart rkk. Ltezik rebirth, renewal. The flowers in the prints are all the flowers
fiatalsg s szpsg, hall, jjszlets, megjuls. A kollekci my mother received in hospital that I scanned and glitched.
virgmintit azokbl a csokrokbl szedtk, majd szkenneltk be
s torztottuk, amiket anyukm kapott a krhzban. She holds her spring-summer 2016 collection entitled Temporary
Security the most nationally sensitive one yet. It is based on
Temporary security nvre keresztelt 2016 tavaszi-nyri kollekci- a personal tension, that though is much tangible in Jordania,
jt az eddigi leginkbb nemzetisg-rzkenynek tartja mind it is still very much present all over Europe as well. We are
kzl. Alapjt szintn egy szemlyes, Jordniban klnsen surrounded by conflict. Jordan is stable, but all our neighbors
ersen rezhet, de az Eurpban lk szmra is megkerlhe- arent - Iraq is in shambles, Syria has been destroyed, and of
tetlen feszltsg adja. Konfliktusokkal vagyunk krlvve. Br course the eternal Palestinian/Israeli conflict is to the left of
Jordnia stabil, a szomszdos orszgok nem - Irakban zrzavar us. But my starting point wasnt actually the tension - it got me
uralkodik, Szrai romokban van, s ne feledkezznk meg a vgte- thinking about the meaning and the concept of freedom. But
len palesztin-szriai konfliktusrl tlnk balra. A kiindulpontom the more I thought about freedom the more i saw that freedom
azonban nem konkrtan a feszltsg volt, hanem az, hogy ennek was never free, it was always fought and rallied for.
kapcsn elkezdtem gondolkodni a szabadsg fogalmrl s
jelentsrl. De ahogy egyre tbbet gondolkodtam rla, egyre So we started to talk about the concept of safety of an instable
inkbb szrevettem, hogy a szabadsg tulajdonkppen soha nem world. It turned out that at this moment Nafsika was sitting in
volt szabad, hanem mindig meg kellett harcolni rte. the corner of the dressmakers workshop in Ammam, laptop in
her lap, supervising the production of the spring-summer pieces.
Egy instabil vilg biztonsg-fogalmrl kezdnk beszlgetni. What if one day the government isnt on your side anymore, for
Kiderl az is, hogy Nafsika ezalatt az ammni varroda egyik whatever reason. What if you lose your job or the right to work
sarkban l, laptop az lben, a tavaszi-nyri darabok gyrtst or one day youre separated from your entire family. It feels so
felgyeli. Mi trtnik, ha egy napon a kormny tbb nem a mi impossible now but it is possible. All security is temporary.
oldalunkon ll, ki tudja milyen okbl. Mi lenne, ha elvesztennk
a munknkat, vagy a munkhoz val jogot, vagy ha egy napon The collections visual narrative is based on an imaginary demonstration,
elvlasztanak minket a csaldunktl. Mindez olyan elkpzel- where old and young, man and woman flood the streets for a cause
hetetlennek tnik, de megtrtnhet. A biztonsg mindig csak they can honestly believe in. The exact cause is dependent of their
tmeneti. geographical location. Nafsika ensures motivation through clothing
that mixes up todays tailoring with pimped-up military uniforms,
A kollekci vizulis narratvjt egy elkpzelt tntets adja, mely while the Internet provides a common, global communication
sorn minden ids s fiatal, frfi s n az utcra vonul valami platform.
olyasmirt, amiben szintn tud hinni. Hogy pontosan mi is az,
a fldrajzi helyzettl fgg. Nafsika a katonai ruhzat mintjt We are all talking about the same, just in different languages.
kicsinostva, egy mai ruhatr sztenderd szabsaival keresztezve The collection intends to draw our attention to the defects of
biztost a a fiktv tntetshez ltzetet, az internet pedig egy global communication through the use of a range of motifs,
kzs, globlis kommunikcis platformot. either overtly throwing it in our face, or hidden, as a private
message, sewn into the insides of the pieces. Reflecting on the
problems caused by translation, a brilliant solution was born
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Mind ugyanarrl beszlnk, csak ms-ms nyelveken. A globlis
kommunikci fogyatkossgaira reflektl a kollekci megannyi
motvuma, amit sok esetben nyltan az arcunkba vg, mskor
burkoltan, privt zenetknt, a ruhk belsejbe varrva ad t
a tervez. A fordts nehzsgei okozta problmkra szletett
meg az a pofonegyszer, mgis brilins megolds, mely azta
fontos trsadalmi krdseket kiprovoklva egy magasabb szintre
emelte a temporary securityt. Az egyszersg kedvrt tbb
felirat is angolul, majd arab fordtsban kerlt a ruhadarabokra,
a vsrlk elfogad, nylt hozzllsra alapozva. Amikor Prizs- that what does it say, what does it mean? Not in a chill way
ban voltunk a Fashion Weeken, sok vsrl s sajts ltogatott
meg minket. Csak hogy rzkeltessem, mennyire ijesztnek
tallnak emberek egyes nyelveket: a dzsekiken ugyanaz a fel-
irat volt angolul s arabul. Nhny vsrl, amikor megltta az
arabot, megkrdezte: mgis mi van oda rva, mit jelent ez? - s
egyltaln nem tntek nyugodtnak... brmifle ok nlkl.
ltzkdsnkkel zenni ma mr szinte megkerlhetetlen, ki-
vteles merszsg kell azonban ahhoz, hogy ezt ilyen direkten
tegyk. Ezek a kabtok feleletvlaszts tesztknt is funkcionl-
hatnnak. El kell dntened, viseled ket vagy sem? Hatrozott
vlemny szksgeltetik.
that, by provoking debates over social issues ever since, raises
Temporary security to a higher level. For the sake of simplicity,
several captions were written over the clothes both in English
and in Arabic as well, expecting an open-minded attitude from
buyers. While we were in Paris during PFW for our showroom,
we had a lot of press and buyers come by. Just to illustrate
how scared people are of different languages : the jackets have
phrases in English and Arabic - but its the same phrase. There
were buyers who saw the Arabic and they were like wait whats
for absolutely no reason.
Although today it is almost impossible not to convey some sort
of message with our clothing, still, one has to be exceptionally
daring to do so in such an overt way. The jackets function as an
either-or test as well. You have to decide whether you are willing
to wear these or not? You really need a firm opinion. I dont
know why but Im obsessed with the idea of conversational pieces.
When youre at a party or a dinner or standing in the tube,and
someone reads or sees something that gets them curious enough
to ask you about it. And for the person wearing it to be like yea
the story of this is this or thatI die for that scenario

Nem tudom mirt, de odavagyok a beszdes s beszlgetst The designer does not let us be short of spontaneous conversations
kezdemnyez darabokrt. Amikor egy buliban, vacsorn, vagy with strangers, giving us anecdotes enough to last a whole season.
csak a metrn valaki lt vagy olvas valamit, ami annyira kvncsi- The black jeans are one of my all time favorite pieces. On the front
v teszi, hogy egyszeren r kell krdeznie. s akkor a viselje we have borders on the left ankle (and the Arabic translation
elmondhatja, hogy mi a darab httrsztorija... Odavagyok az on the right), but at the back we have television. The idea came
ilyen jelenetekrt! from my Facebook feed, where everyone was posting about
the refugees, but then sandwiched between all their political
A tervezn valban nem hagyja, hogy hinyt szenvedjnk az articles and posts there were posts about puppies and kittens
idegenekkel lefolytatott spontn beszlgetsekben, egy sze- sleeping together, or the new episode of Game of Thrones. It
zonra elegend anekdotval lt el minket. just got me thinking about how funny is our generation! On the
A fekete farmer az egyik valaha volt legnagyobb kedvencem. Az surface we act like we care but on the other side were so into
elejn, a bal bokjn a hatr (s a jobb szrn ugyanez arabul), ourselves and our enjoyment!
mg htul ugyangy a televzi felirat tallhat. Az tlet a
Facebook hrfolyamombl jtt, ahol mindenki a menekltekrl The white jacket understating F17 aircrafts as toys raises another
posztolt, de kzben a politikai cikkek mellett csom megoszts important issue, just as the skirt with the motif of the huge
volt alv kismacskkrl, vagy pp a Trnok Harcnak j rszrl. mountain surrounded with embroidered eyes is also likely to
Ekkor ugrott be, hogy mennyire vicces a mi genercink! A fel- trigger conversations that last more than one metro stops.
sznen mindenki gy tesz, mintha aggdna, de igazbl mindenki
csak magval s a szrakozsval foglalkozik. While the masculinity characteristic of the autumn-winter collection
is very much traceable in the spring-summer line as well, the
jabb fontos tmt vet fel egy F17-es replket jtkreplknt collection features a few cocktail dresses along the military
bagatellizl fehr dzseki, de a szemekkel krlhmzett hegy designs created for the fictive, internet-based revolution. Despite
motvumval szinte magt elad szoknya is nhny metrmeg- its serious contents, the collection never becomes mannered,
llnyit kitlt beszlgets alapjul szolgl. thanks to the designers sense of humor, and that she always
keeps her audience in mind.
Az szi-tli szezonon eluralkodott maszkulinits termszetesen
rnyomta blyegt a terepre tervezett tavaszi-nyri darabokra You know, Im still a girlAt the studio we have nicknames for
is, azonban elmletben a vilghln kirobbant fiktv tntetsen some of the pieces, like the ex boyfriend dress or the sweaty
a katonai ruhzat mellett egy-egy koktlruha is megjelenik. A patchwork dress. When you know your ex is gonna be at the
kollekci komoly kinyilatkoztatsai ellenre a tervez humornak party, its a fucking emergency and you need a dress that makes
ksznheten nem vlik modoross, szem eltt tartva azt, hogy you look amazing. Its the strapless one with the corset and the
valjban kiknek kszl. slit. Theres two, one yellow, and one brown and red. In case you
Tudod, azrt csajbl vagyok...A stdiban nhny darabunknak have two ex boyfriends
beceneve van, pldul az expasi ruha vagy a trning patchwork
ruha. Amikor pldul tudod, hogy az exed ott lesz a buliban,

egy ruha, amiben fantasztikusan nzel ki, igazi letment. Ez
a pnt nlkli darab fzvel s felsliccelve. Kt sznben ltezik,
srgban s barna-pirosban. Arra az esetre, ha kt exed van
letnk egyre nagyobb mrtkben terjed ki virtulis felletekre,
s ez a divatszakmt is kezdi bekebelezni ezrt is fordulhat
el, hogy a Saint Martins- on s New Yorkban, a Marchesa-nl
eltlttt vek utn hitelesen, Ammnbl, Jordnibl rkezik
Nafsika mondanivalja. Mersz lps egy olyan orszgbl irny-
tani egy divatmrkt, ahol szakmabeliknt krlbell 100 ember
definilhat, de mr tudjuk, hogy Nafsika bzik az internetben
s annak forml erejben. Remlem a dolgok megvltoznak,
mert jelen formjban az egsz divatrendszer rtelmetlen, ide-
jtmlt. A dolog irnija, hogy az egsz iparg az jdonsgra
pt s az mkdteti.
Egy olyan tervez esetben, aki ilyen expresszv mdon dolgozza
fel szemlyes rzseit, klnsen meghatroz, hogy honnan
rkeznek a kivlt impulzusok. Nafsika esetben gy tnik, hogy
erre Ammn az idelis helyszn. Ez azt is sugallja, hogy forradal-
mi alkotkat keresglve nem clszer a LondonMilnPrizs
vonalra fkuszlnunk.
17
Our lives move more and more to virtual platforms, and that
starts to break the fashion world as well - thats the reason why,
after years spent at Saint Martins and at Marchesa in New York,
the authentic voice of Nafsika arrives from Amman, Jordan. It
is a brave step to direct a fashion brand from a country where
the fashion business covers as much as around a 100 people,
nevertheless Nafsika believes in Internet and its capacity to
affect. I hope things do change because the whole fashion
system makes zero sense anymore, its so outdated. The irony
is that we are an industry built and powered by newness.
In the case of a designer who processes her personal perceptions
in such and expressive way, the sources of impulses are of extreme
importance. For Nafsika, the perfect location for that seems to
be Amman. This also suggests, that we should not focus on the
London-Milan-Paris axis when looking for truly revolutionary
designers.
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ARE YOU READY TO WEAR?
Words by Eszter Boldov
Az elmlt kt-hrom szezon alkalmval elkvetett magnakciival
tbb divattervez is alaknzta a szakmrl szp, olajozott
gpezetknt lefestett kpnket. A divat rendszere vtizedek ta
most megy keresztl a legnagyobb vltozson, ami a dolog szenzcijt
adja, az pedig nem ms, mint hogy sajt termkradatval igyekszik
szemben szni egy egyre gyorsul vilgban.
Photos by Orsolya Luca
Throughout the last two-three seasons, with some well-executed
private actions, some fashion designers managed to undermine
the image showing the business as a beautiful, smoothly opera-
ting machine. Ever since the last couple of decades, the system
of fashion is undergoing a major transformation right now, and
what is sensational about that is that it intends to go against
its very own overflow of products in an ever-accelerating world.
20

Akik igazn kortrsak, azok k, akik nem egyeznek ki tkletesen
az adott idvel, nem alkalmazkodnak az elvrsaihoz A kortrssg
ennlfogva az a kapcsolat az idvel, ami az elvlson keresztl
ktdik hozz. Ezt rja Alessandro Michele a Gucci 2015-s
sz-tli show-jnak ltetkrtyjn, amely esemny a divat
forradalmastst kirobbant mozzanatknt is definilhat. Az akkor
mg kevsb ismert Gosha Rubchinsky, a csendben tevkenyked
Vetements, a 2016 mrciusa ta a Vetements tervezje, Demna
Gvasalia kezei kzt jradefinilt Balenciaga, Saint Laurent, majd
az idn februrban see now buy now hozzllst bejelent
Burberry, Tom Ford s Proenza Schouler mind rszntk magukat
egy shortcutra, ami a tradicionlis rtelemben vett luxust a
termkek ra s megkzelthetetlensge helyett az nkifejezs
privilgiumval igyekszik fellrni.
Those who are truly contemporary are those who neither per-
fectly coincide with their time nor adapt to its demandsCont-
emporariness, then, is that relationship with time that adheres
to it through a disconnection. writes Alessandro Michele on
the seating card of Guccis 2015 autumn-winter show, an event
that can be seen as the trigger of a revolution in fashion. The
silently working Vetements, then lesser known designer Gosha
Rubchinsky, along Balenciaga, as redefined by Vetements de-
signer Demna Gvasalia since March 2016, Saint Laurent, then
Burberry, Tom Ford, and Proenza Schouler announcing a new see
now buy now attitude, they all opted for for a shortcut which,
instead of emphasizing the products price and inaccessibility,
rather tends to rewrite traditional luxury through the privilege
of self-expression.

Raf Simons Cathy Horynnak adott interjjban kitnen egy In his interview for Cathy Horyn, Raf Simons managed to per-
mondatba srtette mindazt, ami a divat jelenlegi llapott fectly squeeze into a single sentence what exactly characterises
jellemzi. A divat npszer lett. Nem tudom eldnteni, hogy ez todays fashion.Fashion became pop. I cant make up my mind
j-e vagy rossz. Csak azt tudom, hogy elitista volt. Nem tudom, if thats a good or a bad thing. The only thing I know is that it
hogy szgyellnnk kell-e magunkat, hogyha bevalljuk, hogy taln used to be elitist. And I dont know if one should be ashamed
jobb volt, mikor elitistbb volt, nem szlt mindenkinek. A divat or not to admit that maybe it was nicer when it was more elitist,
most mr mindenki szmra elrhet. Mieltt mg kapsbl not for everybody. Now high fashion is for everybody. Before
a technolgia (tl)fejlettsgt vagy az internet trhdtst starting to blame the (over)advancement of technology or the
kezdennk okolni, kicsit nzznk krl a high street mrkk hza complete conquest of the Internet right away, lets have a look
tjn is. Hogyan vlhat a divat elitistbl popp, a potencilis around on the high street brand scene as well. How does fashion
vsrlrteg jradefinilsa nlkl? A high fashion fogyasztinak turn from elitist into pop, without having the potential buyership
krt mrpedig bvtennk kell, ksznheten a szinte brki redefined? The consumer circle of high fashion should surely be
szmra elrhet mrkk azon szoksnak, hogy a legnagyobb expanded, thanks to that very habit of brands that are available
divathzak trendjeibe igyekszik ltztetni szinte mindenkit, aki to all, that whoever walks past their shop-window, they intend
elstl a kirakatuk eltt. A Chlo, Valentino, Cline kollekcik to fit them into the trends of the great fashion houses. We wear
szinte megszlalsig hasonlt re-kreciit hamarabb viseljk, s and see on the street almost the exact replicas of creations from
egyszerre ltjuk szembejnni velnk az utcn, mint hogy eljutna the collections of Chlo, Valentino, or Cline, even before they
a luxus divathz vsrlihoz. A legnagyobb trendek nemcsak reach the luxury brands clientele. The biggest trends get not
hogy leszivrognak a divatszakma krmjtl, de olyan hihetetlen only filtered down from the top of the fashion business, but
gyorsasggal teszik ezt, hogy szinte el is hasznldnak, mire they do so at such a pace that they become almost worn-out
Phoebe Philo tervei a Celine zletbe kerlnnek. even before Phoebe Philos designs could hit the Celine stores.

Vastag pnztrca nlkl is lehetnk stlusosak, de biztos, hogy ezt We can surely be stylish without a thick wallet as well, but do we
a Zara trzsvsrljaknt akarjuk elrni? Hedi Slimane, Alessandro indeed intend to do so as a Zara regular? Instead of pointing at
Michele, Demna Gvasalia, Gosha Rubchinsky ahelyett, hogy ujjal us crossly, Hedi Slimane, Alessandro Michele, Demna Gvasalia,
mutogatnnak rnk, egy elegns gesztussal nyitjk fel a szemnket Gosha Rubchinsky opted for an elegant gesture to open up
s lttatjk meg velnk a divat valdi jelentsgt. A Saint Laurent our eyes and expose the true significance of fashion before us.
hirtelen irnyvltst tbben is sszevont szemldkkel fogadtk, The sudden directional change of Saint Laurent, when in 2012
mikor 2012-ben a rocknroll sztr s az it-girl keresztezseknt a teenagers born from the cross of rock nroll and it-girls left
kifutn masroz tinilnyok hada elhagyta az j kreatv igazgat, Hedi Slimanes backstage to flood the runaway, was received
Hedi Slimane backstage-t. Azta szerencsre leesett a tantusz, with crossed eyes by some. Since then, luckily, the penny has
s a kollekci korszakalkotknt lett elismerve, a tervezt Yves dropped, and that collection was redefined as an epoch-maker,
Saint Laurent reinkarncijaknt emlegetve. Annak ellenre, hogy getting the designer cited as Yves Saint Laurents reincarnation.
a brand 2015-ben az eladsokat nzve listavezetknt vgzett Even though the brand closed 2015 at the lead position on Net-
a Net-a-porter-n, megkrdjelezhet, hogy a divathz jelenlegi a-Porter regarding sales, it is debatable whether the fashion
fkusza tnyleg a horribilis sszegeket hoz eladsra esik-e. houses focus falls on the sales bringing indeed horribly high
A Saint Laurent-lny mra fogalom lett, egy jabb opcit knlva profit. The Saint Laurent-girl now became a concept on its own,
ezzel a magukat karakterknt definilni akar divatrajongknak. presenting a novel option for fashion-fans wishing to define
Alessandro Michele j rtelemben szedett-vedett kollekcii, themselves as characters. Alessandro Micheles scruffy (in the
a Vetements utcrl kifutra copy paste-elt lookjai s Gosha good sense) collections, Vetements looks copy-pasted from the
Rubchynshy lakteleprl csent tracksuitjai mind ugyanazt az zenetet street to the runway, and Gosha Rubchinshys tracksuits nipped
kzvettik. Nzz krl, mit ltsz? Inspirldj az utcrl! Vlassz, from the slums are all transmitting the same message: Take a
hogy hov szeretnl tartozni! A kollekci nem a vsrlsra look around, what do you see? Get inspired by the street! Make
22
ksztetst rszesti elnyben, hanem arrl szeretne meggyzni,
hogy formlj vlemnyt ltzkdseddel.
A tervez mr-mr patrita szerepre vltja a korbbi zletembert,
az utcrl lopott ltzkek szinte elhitetik velnk, hogy a kollekci
esszencija nem is a termk, hanem maga az zenet. A tervez letnt
korok kosztmjei helyett az utca embertl mert ihletet, annak a
rtegnek az ltzete inspirlja, amelyik szmra luxustermkei az
elrhetetlen kategriba tartoznak. Akr be is jelenthetnnk egy
j, alzatos, magba fordul divattervezsi stratgia megjelenst,
ha nem tudnnk, hogy a multiproduct marketing nem csak szimpln
mkdik, de a Saint Laurent bevtelt pldul ktszeresre emelte
a tavalyi vben, s pnzgyei tern termszetesen az ezennel
kultikus mrkv avanzslt Gucci sem panaszkodhat. A Vetements
DHL-futroktl lopott t-shirtje brilins irnival 300 dollrrt
szerepel mint slgerdarab a ssense.com-on, a hzilag knnyen
elllthat Yeezy destroyed sweater pedig 2600 dollrba kerl.
A karakteressg djt zengik a modellszakma vlasztsai is, olyan
arcokkal a kifutkon, mint Ruth Bell, Issa Lish, Binx Walton, Winnie
Harlow, Molly Blair, vagy a Vetements esetben a stylist Lotta
Volkova. A Balenciaga legutbbi line-upja is alapot szolgltatott
nhny bosszankod tweetnek, olyan modelleket szerzdtetve
exkluzvknt, mint Jane Moseley vagy Liene Podina. A hossz haj,
babaarc modellidel lassan a mlt, most a grunge-girl vagy az
njellt rocksztr plyzik a legelkelbb helyekre a kifutkon.
A divathzak fast-fashion mrki kzti ellentt egyik f tnyezje
a kollekcik megjelensnek idztse. A Burberry s a Tom
Ford mellett a Proenza Schouler volt az, amely idn janurban
hatrozottan a sarkra llt, s egy gyes, mde veszlyesnek
mondhat trkkel igyekszik kibillenteni a Zart s trsait trendet
diktl szerepkrkbl. Szeptembertl az emltett divathzak
darabjai rgtn a bemutat utn megvsrolhatak lesznek,
thidalva a flves klnbsget a show s a termkek zletekbe
kerlse kztt. Ezzel a lpssel egy fokkal kzelebb kerlnk
ahhoz, hogy a divatszakma utolrje sajt magt, hogy a kifutn
ltott trendek a magazinok kritikinak nyomstl mentesen,
megltni s megszeretni hozzllssal reprezentljk eredeti
stlusukat.
A divat demokratizldsa folyamatos tendenciaknt rhat le,
most mgis gy tnik, mintha egy lavina indult volna meg. A
nem csupn a trendekben, de a divat rendszerben bekvetkez
vltozsok pedig azt igazoljk, hogy nem pusztn egy ml
hbortrl van sz.
a choice, where you want to belong! The collection does not
prioritise motivating purchasing, but it tries to convince us to
make a statement through clothing.
The designer switches the earlier businessman to an almost
patriotic role, the looks stoles from the street almost making
us believe that the essence of the collection is not the product
itself but the message. Instead of the costumes of past ages
the designer takes inspiration from the man of the street, get-
ting inspired by the ones for whom his luxurious products are
absolutely unattainable. We almost could announce the arrival
of a new, humble, inward-looking fashion designer strategy, if
we werent aware that multiproduct marketing does not only
simply work, but it doubled Saint Laurents profit last year, while
Gucci, reaching a cult-status by now, cannot complain about
finances either. Vetements t-shirt that was stolen from DHLs
carriers, is now with brilliant irony a hit item at ssense.com for
sale at 300 dollars, while the Yeezy destroyed sweater, which
can be easily created at home, costs 2600 dollars.
The choices of the modelling business all sing songs about cha-
racter as well, putting faces on the runway like Ruth Bell, Issa
Lish, Binx Walton, Winnie Harlow, Molly Blair, or the stylist Lotta
Volkova wearing a Vetements evening dress. Balenciagas latest
line-up provided ground for some cross tweets, as they signed
models like Jane Moseley or Liene Podina as exclusives. The
long-haired, baby-faced model-ideal will soon become a thing
of the past, as the grunge-girls and self-proclaimed rock-stars
are taking over the most prestigious places on the runways.
The factor creating the most tension between fashion houses and
fast-fashion brands is the timing of collections. Along Burberry
and Tom Ford, now this January Proenza Schouler decided to
take a stand as well in the form of a clever, yet dangerous trick,
in order to dethrone Zara and the likes from their trend-leading
roles. From September on, the pieces of the aforementioned
fashion houses will be available for sale right after the show,
spanning the six-month-period between the presentation and
the collections debut in stores. With this step we will be a
tad closer to fashion catching up with itself, and, now void of
the pressure of the criticism in magazines and in a manner of
love-at-first-sight, to that the trends seen on the runway would
represent their genuine style.
While the democratisation of fashion can be described as an
ongoing tendency, now it seems as if an avalanche would have
started. And the changes surfacing not only in trends but in the
wholeness of fashion industry as well confirm that this is not just
some passing craze.
24
THE DEAD BEAT POET
A berlini galrik szobrszait, festit bngszve az ember szeme
taln az olyan alkotn akad meg a legknnyebben, aki lthatan
igyekszik kerlni a konceptulis narratva ma legnpszerbb
anyagokban trtn kifejezst. Vivienne Griffin vdjegyei a GIF-
ekre ksztett koreogrfia, geometriai absztrakci, kinagytott
angol nyelvi jtkok festmnyknt - a klnbz mfajok szabad
felhasznlsa, nyers, letisztult, miniml kommunikcis csatornk.
Milyen egy mvsz tja az internettl a kig, mi vonzza t Ligeti
Gyrgy Kossuth-djas magyar zeneszerzhz? Vivienne Griffin
dublini szlets mvsszel Londonban ksztettnk riportot.
Interview by Anna Kudron & Eszter Boldov
Photos by Richard Kovacs & Bureau New York
Upon looking through the sculptors and painters of the Berlin
galleries, they are those kind of artists who catch ones eye,
who openly tend to avoid the conceptual narratives manifesta-
tions through todays most popular materials. Vivienne Griffins
trademarks are the GIF-based choreographies, geometrical
abstraction, over-magnified English linguistic games - the free
application of different genres, raw, cleaned-up, minimalistic
communication channels. Whats an artist route from stone to
the internet, what draws her to Gyrgy Ligeti, the Kossuth Prize
winner Hungarian composer? We talked to Dublin-born artist
Vivienne Griffin in London.
26
A szvegalap munkid a The Dead Beat Poet cmsz alatt
futnak. Utal ez valamifle klnleges inspircis forrsra?
Ez egy szjtk, a dead beat a trsadalmi kvlllkra hasznlt
szleng, mg a beat poet az amerikai beatkltkre utal. Ugyan a
szjtkokat nem knny lefordtani, n sokat hasznlom ket a
szveges munkimban. Elrsokat, nyelvtani hibkat is hasznlok,
hogy a nyelvi szablyokkal jtsszak, vagy pp thgjam azokat.
pp rs kzben bukkantam r a jazz-beat klt Bob Kaufman
mveire. Nagyon termkeny klt volt, de csak ritkn rta le
a verseit, gy felesge, Eileen Kaufman jegyezte fel azokat.
Kaufmannak komoly kbtszeres peridusai voltak. John F.
Kennedy meggyilkolsa utn pedig a vietnami hbor elleni
tiltakozsul nmasgot fogadott. Amikor vge lett a hbornak,
az egy vtizedig tart nmasgt gy trte meg, hogy bestlt
egy kvzba s elszavalta az All Those Ships That Never Sailed
c. verset. Elkpeszten megrznak tallom a munkssgt, s
verseinek a ritmusa nagyon ersen befolysolta nhny hosszabb
llegzet szveges munkmat.
Szereted, ha knnyen rtelmezhetek a munkid? gy rtem,
hogy egy szveg nmagban gyakran megkap lehet.
Azt szeretem, ha a munkimnak van egy belpszintje, de
ugyanakkor olyan referencikat is tartalmaz, amelyek nem mindenki
szmra nyilvnvalak, ezek fknt trtnelmi utalsok. gy gondolom,
hogy mindenkinek megvan a kpessge, hogy leszrjn valamit
egy malkotsbl, direkt vagy indirekt mdon. Sose felttelezem,
hogy a kznsg kezt - akr jrtas a mvszetben, akr nem -
fogni kne a mtrgy mellett.
Szoktl aggdni amiatt, hogy mit szrnek le az emberek
a munkidbl?
Egyre kevsb.
s az internetnek ksznheten egyre tbb mindent szrnk
le. Mit gondolsz, ez az risi mennyisg informcihalmaz
hogyan hat a mvszeti vilgra?
Az online, ideiglenes tartalmak tlteltettsgre az n vlaszom
az volt, hogy olyan hagyomnyos anyagokhoz fordultam, mint
a k s a rajz. Egy olyan folyamatban akartam elmerlni, ami
az idrl mesl. A digitlis felletek azt befolysoljk, ahogy a
hangrl gondolkodom, s ahogy az emberi hangot felhasznlom
a hangalap munkimban. Elektronikus hangmintkat ksztek, s
ezek adjk a kontextust a beszdhez vagy a rgebben hasznlt,
szveget hangg alakt szoftverekhez. Ez munkrl munkra
vltozik.
Sarah Kane 4 48 Psychosis c. munkja egy rdekes vlaszts.
Sarah Kane egy nagyon rdekes r, akkor robbant be, amikor
mg egyetemista volt. Msfl vvel azeltt lett ngyilkos, hogy
a 4 48 elszr kerlt bemutatsra. gy olvastam el a darabot,
hogy mg semmit sem tudtam rla, de felfedeztem benne
egyfajta fekete humort, ami hasonltott arra, amikor elszr
Your text based work runs by the slogan THE DEAD BEAT
POET. Does this refer to a special inspiration?
Its a word play, dead beat is slang for a social dropout and beat
poet references American Beat poets. Word plays dont translate
very well, but I use a lot of them in my text pieces. I also use
misspellings and grammatical errors to break/play with the rules
of language. At the time of writing that I had just come across
the work of the jazz beat poet Bob Kaufman. He was a prolific
poet who rarely wrote down his poems, his wife, Eileen Kauf-
man, wrote them down. He preferred to spontaneously recite
poems either memorized or improvised. Kaufman had suffered
from serious periods of substance abuse. He also took a vow of
silence for ten years after John F Kennedy was assassinated in
protest of the Vietnam war. When the war ended he ended his
decade of silence by wandering into a coffee shop and reciting
a poem called All Those Ships That Never Sailed. I find his work
incredibly moving and the rhythm of poems were influential on
some longer text pieces Ive been working on.
Do you like your work to be easy to understand? I mean, text
based work can be kind of catchy.
I like my work to have a point of entry but also other referen-
ces that not everyone will see, usually historical references. I
think everyone has the capacity to derive something from an
artwork either directly or indirectly. I never assume an audien-
ce (whether they are art literate or not) needs to be hand held
through art work.
Do you worry about what peopleperceivefrom your work?
Less and less so.
And we are deriving more and more, thanks to the internet.
How do you think this huge amount of information influences
the art world?
My response to the over saturation of temporary content online
was to turn to traditional materials and media like stone and
drawing. I wanted to engage a process that spoke about time.
Digital interfaces influence how I think about sound and the
use of the voice in sound works. I make electronic sound and
use this as a context for spoken text works or in the past text
to voice software. It varies from piece to piece.
4 48 Psychosis by Sarah Kane is an interesting choice. (The
robotic version of English playwright was used in the exhibi-
tion titled he Me Song for Now Here at Bureau)
Sarah Kane was a very interesting writer, she shot to fame when
she was still at university. She committed suicide a year and
half before 4 48 was first performed. I read the play without
knowing anything about her and I found a dark humor in it si-
milar to when I first read Waiting for Godot by Samuel Beckett.
The play doesnt have explicit characters or stage directions so
I put the piece through text to voice software. It was surreal
to hear the computer generated voice have deeply existential

kerlt kezembe Samuel Beckett-tl a Godot-ra vrva. A darabban
nincs semmifle konkrt utasts a karakterekre vagy a sznpadra
vonatkozan, gyhogy egy hangszoftverrel olvastattam fel.
Nhnyan viccesnek talltk, msok nyugtalantnak, vagyis
igazi megoszt munka volt.
Ezeket a hangokat egy minimalista krnyezetbe helyezed...
Mikor kezdett rdekelni a minimalista mvszet?
Tony Smith munki akkor keltettk fel a figyelmemet, mikor a
Hunterben, New Yorkban tanultam. Az egyik mve a Lexington
Avenue-n van killtva, a Hunter kzelben. Sikerlt szereznem egy
eredeti dokumentum-felvtelt az installls folyamatrl. A m
egy masszv fekete struktra, s a ltvny, ahogy egy darun trepl
a midtown fltt, nagyon megkap volt. A minimalizmusnak az
a trtnelme s hagyatka befolysolja a munkimat, mely New
Yorkban szletett egy meghatrozott idszakban.
Milyen egyb tapasztalatok hatottak rd inspirlan?
Amikor tindzserknt elszr voltam a Tate Modernben, a New
York-i let, s amikor tavaly Izlandon voltam egy rezidencia-
program keretben.
Fel tudod idzni az els olyan emlkedet, amikor ksztetst
reztl az alkotsra?
Tiniknt sokat rajzoltam jsgpaprra, s mindig rtam, de sose
vettem semmit se tl komolyan.
Elfordult, hogy megkrdjelezted, mvsz vagy-e?
Amikor elszr elkezdtem, nem szerettem magamat mvszknt
definilni.
Meslj neknk a legjabb, kszl killtsodrl!
Az j killtsom egy performansz Litvniban kt msik mvsszel,
Kaspars Groshevsszel s Cian McConnal kzsen. A darab egy
prbafolyamatbl ntte ki magt, amikor klnbz mdozatokat
kerestnk arra, hogy hogyan tudnnk a digitlisan kzvettett
tapasztalatokat fizikai krnyezetbe tltetni. GIF-eket hasznlunk
a tnc egyes fzisaihoz, amiket digitlis hangmintkbl vett
ismtld akkordok ksrnek. Nagy rajongja vagyok Ligeti
Gyrgynek, a munkssga nagyban hatott a polifonikus akkordokra,
amiken pp dolgozom most ehhez a darabhoz.
Gyjtesz mtrgyakat?
Szoktam cserlni mveket. Van nhny szp festmnyem, pr
kermia s kis szobor, illetve sok hangfjl. A mgyjts szmomra
egy szemlyes lmny, mely kapcsolatok, helyek, idk lenyomatt
hordozza.
A killts a The International Contemporary Art Festival-on, a
Survival K(n)it 7 keretein bell kerl megrendezsre Rigban,
szeptember 4 s 20 kztt.
29
thoughts. Some people found it funny and other people found
it disturbing it was a crowd divider.
You place these sounds in a minimal environmentWhen did
you become interested in minimal art?
I became interested in the work of Tony Smith when I was stu-
dying at Hunter, in New York. One of his pieces is on Lexington
avenue near Hunter. I got access to original documentary foota-
ge of the piece being installed. Its a monolithic black form and
seeing it move through New York city, flying through midtown
on a crane was a very evocative image for me. I was influenced
by the history and legacy of minimalism born out of a particular
time frame in New York and it informed my work.
What have been some of your other inspiring experiences?
W
h
en I first visited the Tate Modern as a teenager, living in New
York and visiting Iceland last year for a residency.
Do you remember the earliest memory of wanting to create
something?
As a teenager I made a lot of drawings on newspapers, I always
wrote but I never took anything too seriously.
So did you ever doubt you were an artist?
When I first started I didnt like to call myself an artist.
Tell us about your newest exhibition!
My next show is a performance in Latvia with two other artists,
Kaspars Groshevs and Cian McConn. The piece evolved from
rehearsals when we were looking for a way to physicalize dig-
itally mediated experiences. We are using GIFS as choreography
for dances phrases and repeated live harmonies derived from
digital sound loops. The only stage lighting in the performance
will be from phones and laptops. I am a big fan of Gyrgy Ligeti,
his work has informed the polyphonic harmonies I am currently
developing for this piece.
Do you collect art?
I trade work with people. I have some beautiful paintings, some
ceramics and small sculptures, lots of sound files too. Collecting
art is a personal experience for me connected with relationships,
place and time.
Viviennes new show takes place at The International Contempo-
rary Art Festival Survival K(n)it 7, in Riga from 4 to 20 September.
30

PUCCINI AND LEATHER STOCKINGS Words by Laura Marx

Idn tavasszal a kontrasztok s ellentmondsok szezonja rkezik, This spring the season of contrasts and contradictions arrives,
sugalljk a divatfilozfusok, ami azt jelenti, hogy stlusok s a suggest the fashion-philosophers, which means that the styles
felidzett divattrtneti korszakok tlk idegen szvetekbe and invoked periods of fashion history will be woven into a new
kltzkdnek, textilek s kiegsztk nem vrt, extrm funkcikat texture alien to them, the textiles and accessories will be fulfil-
tltenek be, s az vszakok, valamint az idjrs taln mg ling extreme, never-before expected roles, and finally that the
kevsb befolysolja a designerek kollekciit, mint azt korbban seasonal climate and weather conditions have even lesser effect
megszoktuk. A jin-jang, a vilg egymssal ellenttes, kozmikus on designers collections than we are used to. Yin and Yang, the
erinek egysgt szimbolizl vezredes jelkp lthatan nem thousand-year-old symbol of the opposing cosmic forces of the
hullik most sem atomjaira. Az olyan, termkeny ellentmondsok universe wont be dismantled to pieces this season either. De-
ltal ihletd tervezk, mint Alexander Wang, Karl Lagerfeld, signers inspired by fruitful contradictions like Alexander Wang,
Miuccia Prada, vagy az akkora szakmai tudssal, mlttal s a Karl Lagerfeld, Miuccia Prada, or the huge brands in possession
romantika irnti vgzetes hajlandsggal br mrkk, mint a of immense professional experience, history, and fatal attraction
Dolce&Gabbana s a Balenciaga ihlet titkos Mzsi most nagyon to romanticism like Dolce and Gabbana, and the secret inspiring
is jl lthatakk vlnak. A nyomukba erednk. Muses of Balenciaga, became all very much apparent now. We
are following up on them.
32
A divatot az jdonsg varzsa mellett az ellenttes erk tartjk
mozgsban. Mindig megfigyelhet a j kislnyrossz kislny, a
bronx-i utcalny s a Csipkerzsika ellentt vonulata, ppgy,
ahogy a frfidivatban is mindig ott a hajthatatlan, cyber-Casanova s
a legyrt zoknis Nemecsek prototpusa, la Pl utcai fik. Legjobb
plda utbbi nemzetkzi felbukkansra most az olasz tavaszi
menswear kollekcik kztt a Prada-. Miuccia Prada, akinek
trendforml kollekcii sosem mentesek politikai utalsoktl
(politikatudomnybl szerzett PhD-t hajdan), most nagyon ersen
kettbontotta a ni s frfi szezont, kreatvja, Fabio Zambernardi
segtsgvel. A frfi vonal a neorealista filmek szegnygyereknek
zoknijt s rvidnadrgjt kapta meg: kiegsztk tern a lerogy
zokni, nadrgtart, s a drapp sznek biztostanak klasszikus
elesettsget s flnk, de itt-ott azrt felcsillan vagnysgot a
kollekcinak. A gyerekkorra s a gyerekkor manipullhatsgra
val utalsok sora folytatdik a komplett szettekben, amelyek
katonai, erdsz s ki tudja, milyen egyenruhk ihletdseire
kszltek. Ezzel szemben a ni kollekci sokkal kevsb infantilis,
br a zoknimegoldsok, a cipzros felsk s a mintk azonosak.
A ni ruhkon pldul thzott szemeket lthatunk, taln a
feminista Ne tekints trgynak! jelszra val utalsknt?
A Prada retro-eklekticizmusa nem szokvnyosan friss, nem
kzhelyesen vidm, artisztikus, szenzitv n arckpt rajzolja
meg. Arisztokratikus s futurisztikus a kollekci, erteljes, kicsit
a bohckosztmbe hajl sznekkel, szvfjdt tkly, mgsem
finomkod egy n a kozmikus gangrl. Kiss taln tl eklektikus
de nem a niessg, hanem hangslyozottan a klisk rovsra.
Ez az ernye, ahogy a kliskkel elbnik. Meg merem kockztatni,
hogy egyesek zlstelennek rzik a geometrikus formk, a horgolt
kiegsztk s az tltsz anyagok egyvelegt: de nagyon
rdekes ebben a szezonban, ki mit rejt az tltsz anyagok al.
A Prada ebben a show-ban olykor a teljes ltzetet, komplett
szoknya-blz egyttest. Mirt?
Alexander Wang az ellenttek nagymestere. SS 2016 kollekcija
szemben a Balenciaga-val, ahol vek ta a kreatv igazgat
egyfajta visszatekints tervezi plyafutsra, egyben a depresszv
street cool, sszezillt glamr, a klasszikus New York-i glossy-
val ellenttes attitd megtesteslse, mintegy annak antitzise,
taln a leszakad youth culture irnti sznalom, valamint a valloms
mfajnak kifutra koreograflsa. Wang zsenilisan rrez a
htkznapok hangulatra, s hatalmas energit tud pumplni a
legegyszerbb ruhadarabokba; ebben a szezonban a sima fehr
pl s a fekete kezeslbas munkaruha, a tlmretes bomberdzseki
s a brmelyik turiban fellelhet szakadt farmersort kpezi a kollekci
fvonalt, komor arc, tpett haj, ert, ugyanakkor ktsgbeesst
sugrz modellek bemutatsban. A szoksos Wang-fle csuklys
pulcsik, ormtlan szoknyk, megszaggatott anyagszlek kztt
nha feltnik egy-egy teljesen klasszikus estlyi, de olyan ronda
hsszn selyembl, hogy alig vrjuk, hogy eltnjn.
A Wang-fle adrenalin a fekete-fehr, drmai kifutn s a basszus
dbrgsn tl a htkznapi darabokba vitt energia-kapszula.
A modellek egyszerre idzik az edzterem, a mellkutck s
a drogos htknapok remnytelen hangulatt, de a fiatalsg
ellentmondst nem tr erejt is.
Besides the magic of novelty, fashion is fuelled by the tension
between opposing forces. The good girl-bad girl, Bronx street
girl vs Sleeping Beauty contradictions are always present, just
like prototypes of the relentless cyber-Casanova and the kind
guy with the rolled socks. The most relevant example for the
appearance of the latter one amongst the spring menswear col-
lections is that of Prada. Miuccia Prada, whose trend-defining col-
lections have never been void of political allusions (she obtained
a PhD in political science), now separated the men and women
line very markedly, with the help of her creative assistant Fabio
Zambernardi. The mens line is characterised by the poor boys
socks and shorts of neorealist films: accessories like floppy socks,
braces, and beige colours ensure a classically graceless look, still
demonstrating flashes of coolness here and there. Allusions to
childhood and the manipulative facet of childhood appear one
after the other in full sets that got inspired by army, woodman,
and various other uniforms. As opposed to this, the womens
collection is less infantile, even though the socks, zipped tops,
and some patterns are shared between the two. Motifs of eyes
crossed appear on womens dresses, alluding probably to the
feminist catchphrase Dont consider me an object.
Pradas retro-eclecticism draws the face of a woman who is
not conventionally fresh, neither stereotypically cheerful, but
artistic and sensitive. The collection is aristocratic and futuristic,
with powerful colours leaning towards clown-costumes, heart-
wrenching perfection, yet not genteel - a woman from the cosmic
yard. It might be a tad too eclectic, but not at the expense of
femininity but emphasised the clichs. I might risk that some
find the turmoil of geometrical patterns, crocheted accessories
and transparent materials distasteful: but it is of crucial interest
this season what is put beneath those transparent materials. For
Prada, this is often a complete set, a skirt-blouse combo this
season. But why?
Alexander Wang is the great master of oppositions. His SS16
collection, quite contrary to Balenciaga where he has been the
creative director for some years now, is a kind of retrospection
on his designer career, while being the manifestation of the de-
pressive street cool, ragged glamour, and an attitude completely
opposing the classical New York glossy as a kind of antithesis at
the same time, choreographing probably the pity towards the
drifting-off youth culture, and the genre of the confession to
the runway. Wang has an ingenious tendency to feel the vibe of
the everyday, and can boost up with energy even the simplest
pieces of clothing: this season the basic white t-shirt, the black
boiler suit, the oversized bomber, and the ripped shorts present
in every vintage stores make up the core of the collection, pre-
sented by hollowed faced, ripped-haired models transmitting an
air of power yet dismay. Amongst the traditionally Wang hoodies,
cumbersome skirts, and ragged edges, a few evening gowns
appear, but they are made out of such hideous meat-coloured
silk that one cannot wait for them to disappear.
The Wang-type adrenalin, beyond the black-and-white, dramatic
runway and the beating of the bass, is the energy-capsule infused
into everyday pieces. The models recall the hopeless atmosphere
of gyms, back-alleys, and drugged days, simultaneously with the
34

Simn lehetne brmelyik modell egy isten hta mgtti vidki self-assertive force of youth. Any of the models would do as a
mt mellett stoppol lny is. Minden a klasszikus eszttikai chick hitch-hiking chick near a countryside road. Everything in
diszciplntl j tvol. a far distance from the classical aesthetic discipline.
Tvol lenni. Rojtok, hlk, khakiszn egytt. Kioltjk egymst. Being far away. Fringes, nets, khakis all together. Blacking out
Nihil, szakadk. A kollekcirl az jut eszembe: honnan jssz? each other. Nihilism, chasm. The collection brings the question
where do you come from? to my mind.
A Balenciaga-show szimbolikus szmedenck mellett zajlott, s
nagyon megvarilt selyem minikbl, maxiruhkbl s luxuspizsamkbl The Balenciaga show was staged next to symbolic swimming
llt. A Balenciaga nagy mlt divathz, amely Rotschildokat pools, and featured very mixed-up silk minis, maxi dresses, and
s Bismarcokat ltztetett. A mostani kollekci a kiss irnyt luxury-pyjamas. Balenciaga is a fashion house with a great history,
vesztett Csipkerzsika vonalba illeszkedik: ttova, energit nem clothing Rothschilds and Bismarcks. This collection fits more
sugrz modellek mell alatt megkttt, als-felsnem ruhkat in line with the idea of a Sleeping Beauty who lost direction:
mutattak be kizrlag fehr sznben, lapos csipkecipkben. B, hesitant models void of energy present underwear-like gowns
cskos pizsamanadrgok, kis csipks mellnyek, nem sikkes, tied under the bust, exclusively in white, wearing laced flats.
inkbb extrm, de unalmas, lmos hangulatban. Wide, striped pyjama-trousers, laced vests, not chic but rather
A fodrok, selymek, tltsz, lenge luxusmellnyek, romantikus, extreme, yet in a rather bored, sleepy mood.
csodlatosan es, gynyren varrott egybenruhk, b, 20- The frills, silks, transparent, airy luxury-waistcoats, the romantic,
as veket idz ujjakkal figyelmeztettek, hogy a Balenciaga beautifully falling and sewn-together long dresses, with their
arisztokratkat ltztet, a Wang pedig megapopsztrokat. wide, 20s-like sleeves, reminded all that Balenciaga is dressing
A kollekci a 18. szzadi uralkodi alsnemkbl is inspirldott, up aristocrats, while Wang pop-stars.
burjnzanak benne a csipkk, fonatok, lg fonalak, sugrzik The collection was inspired by the underwear of 18th century
a szex s az enervltsg, tldsztettsgkben is trkenynek royals, with the over-abundance of laces, plaits, hanging strings,
marad sziluettek mozognak elttnk. beaming with sex and enervation, presenting silhouettes that
Kvl viselt melltart, ezst dohny- vagy mobiltok, mindenre remain delicate even in their over-embellishment.
ksz arckifejezs mrmint minden meglepetsre. A n, aki Bra worn on top, sliver tobacco or phone case, a face ready for
szatnban csinlja vgig a harmadik vilghbort. anything - more precisely, any kind of surprise. The woman, who
will make through world war 3 wearing satin.
A Dolce&Gabbana nyri kollekcija Italy is Love cmsz alatt
virgznt idz, de az energikus modellek nem lmatagon lebegnek, Dolce&Gabbanas summer collection, under the catchphrase
hanem trappolnak s szelfiznek a kifutn. Minden a rgi Rmrl, Italy is Love, is recalling a flower-flow, but the energetic models
Firenzrl, Npolyrl s az olasz letrmrl szl, retro Italiano are not sleepily flowing above the runaway, but rather trotting
hangulatban. Csipks ruhk szzai vonulnak elttnk Fellini- down and taking selfies. Everything is about the old Rome,
filmek jeleneteivel, frdruhk Pisa felirattal, pntos ruhk, Florence, Naples, and the Italian dolce vita, in the retro Italiano
tipikus 60-as vekbeli nagy kabtok, kellkekknt kosarak, mood. Hundreds of lace dresses are marching in front of us, re-
narancsflbevalk. Fekete pizsama szettek tengeri csillaggal, calling scenes from Fellini films, swimsuits with Pisa inscription,
napernykkel dsztve. Csipkenyakkal: elegns, erteljes, jtkos strappy dresses, typically 60s oversized coats, baskets and
nosztalgia ez, amelyben letre bred a mlt, a valaha volt letkedv orange-earrings as accessories. Black pyjama-sets embellish-
pr percre fellktet. Gyngy, virgtiark, s kendk lobognak ed with sea-stars and parasols. Laced necks: elegant, forceful,
s elcsodlkozunk, hova lett mindez mra? playful nostalgia, where past comes alive and old lease of life
is revived. Pearl, flower-tiaras, and scarves flying around - one
Biztosan jelent valamit, ha egy olyan brand, mint a Chanel, az might wonder where all this has gone by today?
zlstelensget vlasztja tmjul egy kollekcinl; ez is zenet,
mr ha zenetet akarunk. Ha valamit kn vgignzni, akkor az It surely means something that a brand like Chanel choses inde-
beg az agyunkba. corum as the theme of their collection, and it is a message, in
case we intend to convey a message. If its a pain to look through
A Chanel Cruise! trkksen gusztustalan kollekci, amely egyszerre something, then it will be engraved in our minds for sure.
idzte fel savanycukorka sznekben s plasztikhangulatban
a 60-as vek zsorzsett kiskosztmjeinek, egzisztencialista Chanel Cruise! managed to compile a trickily disgusting collec-
filmjeinek, a hziasszonyok konyhai viseletnek, a 80-as vek tion, that with the candy-colours and plastic-feel manages to
karikkbl fztt veinek s aerobic ruhinak aszimmetrijt, revive the 60s Georgette-suits, existentialist films, housewives
az orosz kalcsfrizurnak s a Mickey Mouse-filmek romlott wear, the circle-interlinked belts and asymmetric gym-wear of
agresszivitsnak mr Bowie ltal is parodizlt vilgt. A show-ban the 80s, Russian braids, and the rotten aggressivity of the Mic-
egyetlen komolyan vehet elem sem volt lthat szndkosan key-Mouse films already parodied by Bowie (Life on Mars) all at
zlsficamoss varzsoltk. Lakknadrgok, ezst kezeslbasok once. The show did not contain a single serious element, patent
szerepeltek hatalmasra hzott, kifejezstelenre sminkelt rajzfilm- pants, silver overalls were taking stage with cartoon-like vacant
szemekkel, radsknt horror-hangulat lebegett a levegben. eyes, yet the whole still carried an air of horror.
A show majdnem hsz perc, s olyan rzs vgignzni, mintha The show lasted almost twenty minutes, and to watch the whole
beszorultunk volna egy ridiklbe, egy csomag cukor s egy thing feels like as if we got stuck between a pack of candy and
 37

tampontasak kz, valamikor a 80-as vekben, s egy walkman tampons, somewhere in the 80s, and a walkman is playing in
is szlna, de mintha be lenne ragadva. Nagy hangulat. Nem the distance but it is always stuck. Great ambiance. It is not a
szgyen giccsbl inspirldni, s a mesk rejtett kesersgt disgrace to get inspired by kitsch, and to emphasise the hidden
hangslyozni. bitterness of fairy tales.

A felsorolst ltva taln nyilvnvalv vlik, hogy a tervezk Seeing this enumeration, it becomes obvious that the general
ltalnos feladata, hogy szezononknt jabb impulzusokkal assignment of designers is to confirm the raison detre of certain
bresszenek r bennnket egy adott letrzs ltjogosultsgra, lifestyles, be it yin or yang, through newer and newer impulses
legyen akr jin, akr jang a megfelelje. A divathnapot figyelemmel from season to season. Following up the fashion months, one
kvetve nagy valsznsggel manifesztldik egy kifutn egy might recognise a state of soul and dreamscape being mani-
olyan lelkillapot, lomkp, amely legbels nnket simogatja. fested on the runway which is caressing our inner ego. Even if
A Balenciaga arisztokratikus mzsi vagy Dolce&Gabbana signorini only for a brief moment, the aristocratic muses of Balenciaga,
kitnen rtenek ahhoz, hogy elcsalogassk ha csak egy or Dolce&Gabbanas signorinas know well the way to call on our
percre is a bennnk rejl alteregt, aki az aktulis szezonban inner alter-ego, providing the keynote for our clothing for the
ltzknk alaphangjt adja, akr egy magunkra kttt masni season in question, be it a bow we tie on ourselves. The fashion
erejig is. A divatszakmnak minden szezonban kijut az a feladat, scene is assigned each season to call forth, through an imposing
hogy a fogyasztiban megbjt olasz dvt, lzad rocknroll show, the Italian diva, the rebellious rocknroll princess, or the
hercegnt vagy ppen erlyes zletasszonyt egy impozns show- determined businesswoman living inside the audience. Since
val csalogassa el. Mivel vsrlk tmegeirl van sz Abu Dhabitl they have to attract a mass of customers stretching from Abu
egszen Tokiig, ezrt karakterek nagyon szles skljt kell Dhabi to Tokyo, a very wide range of characters have to be show-
felvonultatnia, hogy brki, brmilyen httrrel megtallja az idelis cased in order to allow people from diverse backgrounds find
inspircit. Igaz, hogy a tavasz-nyri szezon lgy melegsge s az their ideal inspiration. While noting that the soft warmth of the
sz-tli kollekcik hvs pikantrija ersen meghzza a hatrt az spring-summer season, and the cool sauciness of autumn-winter
inspircik repertorjt illeten, mgis biztosak lehetnk abban, collections put a limit on the possible repertoire of inspirational
hogy a divat egyenslyt tbb szz ve fenntart, trsadalmi sources, we still can be sure of that the balance of fashion will
szinten szertegaz zls mint szr tovbbra is biztostja a jin be held up by the centuries-old, socially diverse tastes, serving
s jang egyenslyt. as the filter for maintaining the harmony of yin and yang.
38

Polka dot dress MARCO DE VINCENZO

Tights STYLIST OWN
40 41

Black satin dress CHRISTOPHER KANE

Ribbon worn as choker STYLIST OWN
Ring DAVID MORRIS
Pink floral sheer dress SIMONE ROCHA Black satin dress CHRISTOPHER KANE
Bustier (word underneath) NATASHA ZINKO Ribbon worn as choker STYLIST OWN
Black velvet trousers (worn underneath) TOPSHOP Ring DAVID MORRIS
Top and Skirt ERDEM
 Dress CHRISTOPHER KANE
Dress (worn underneath) CHRISTOPHER KANE
Black silk dress ASHLEY WILLIAMS Rings DAVID MORRIS
48

JUST OUT OF CURIOSITY

by Balazs Mate

Styling MARTON MIOVAC

Makeup NORA BELOVAI
Hair GERGO SVEGEL @ CULT
Casting REA FARKAS
Model SERGE RIGVAVA @ Stella Models Vienna
Set design RICHARD ILLES
Photo assistants BALAZS BIHARI & SARA SZATMARI Chino KENZO
Sweater RALPH LAUREN
 ON THE LEFT
Shirt and Sneakers DSQUARED2
Jeans chinos USE UNUSED

ON THE RIGHT
Sweater KENZO
 ON THE LEFT
Statement sweater THEFOUR
Tech mesh tank top DSQUARED2 Ribbed tank top CALVIN KLEIN
Jeans STELLA MCCARTNEY Sneakers DSQUARED2
ON THE RIGHT
Mesh t-shirt BALENCIAGA
Shirt and T-shirt COS
Pants and Sneakers
DSQUARED2 sweater KENZO
 61

ON THE LEFT
Denim top USE UNUSED
Denim vest and Shorts USE UNUSED
Bandana STYLISTS OWN
 denim jacket BIMBA Y LOLA
Kimonos
boob tube PHOTOGRAPHERS
CHRISTIAN COWAN-SANLUIS OWN
Beltsocks
shoes NIKE THEFOUR
NIKE
Coat COS
Parka (tied on the waist) THEFOUR
Bracelet and earring THEFOUR
Akle boots ZARA
Tights WOLFORD
 Coat COS
Earring THEFOUR
Parka (tied on the waist) THEFOUR
Kimono PHOTOGRAPHERS OWN
Karate gi ADIDAS
Coat NUBU
Karate gi ADIDAS
Jacket THE FOUR
Concept pants from
Vintage Adidas jackets
MARTON MIOVAC
Boots DR. MARTENS
 denim jacket BIMBA Y LOLA
boob tube CHRISTIAN COWAN-SANLUIS
Kimono PHOTOGRAPHERS OWN shoes NIKE socks NIKE
78

FIND TRIANGLES
by Masahiro Sanbe

Art direction & Styling DAI ISHII

Hair AI NAKANO
Makeup MARI MIZUNO
Model MANAMI KINOSHITA

Dress STEPHAN SCHNEIDER

Panty KRISS SOONIK
skirt AMERICAN APPAREL Skirt AMERICAN APPAREL
Socks PANTHERELLA Shirt STEPHAN SCHNEIDER
Panty WOLFORD Socks PANTHERELLA Panty WOLFORD
Dress STYLISTS OWN
Panty CHANTAL THOMASS
84

UNTITLED
by Balint Barna

Makeup ESZTER MAGYAR

Hair LASZLO PASZTOR
Casting REA FARKAS
Layout Design ALIZ VERONIKA ACS
Shirt COS
Model JAKUB PASTOR @ Exit Model Management Black sweater COS
Turtleneck ACNE STUDIOS
Pants COS Top COS Top COS
Turtleneck ACNE STUDIOS Shoes EYTYS Scarf STYLISTS OWN
 Top NOVEMBER
Top and Collar NOVEMBER Suit USE UNUSED
 Scarf STYLISTS OWN

Suit USE UNUSED

Shoes EYTYS
 Pants COS
Top NOVEMBER Boots DSQUARED
Collar NOVEMBER Pants USE UNUSED Scarf STYLISTS OWN
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