Tesla Coil Construction

Introduction
Design
Theory Of Operation
Power Supply
Primary Capacitance
Secondary Coil
Top Load
Primary Coil
Construction
Schematic
Parts
Power Supply (NST)
Primary Capacitors (MMC)
Spark Gap
Primary Coil
Secondary Coil
Top Load
PFC Capacitors
NST Protection
Line Filters
Chassis
Required Tools
Wiring
Grounding
Operation
Safety
Adjusting Gaps
Tuning
Fun
Troubleshooting
Appendix
FAQ
Helpful Links
Miscellaneous
Menu
Introduction
Design
Construction
Operation
Appendix
The
Tesla Coil Design, Construction and Operation Guide

by
Kevin Wilson
In conjunction with
TeslaMap - Tesla Coil Design Program
2009-2016 by Kevin Wilson
Table of Contents
Introduction
Design
Theory Of Operation
Power Supply
Primary Capacitance
Secondary Coil
Top Load
Primary Coil
Sample Design
Construction
Schematic
Parts
Power Supply (NST)
Spark Gap
Primary Coil
Secondary Coil
Top Load
PFC Capacitors
NST Protection
Line Filters
Chassis
Required Tools
Wiring
Grounding
Operation
Safety
Adjusting Gaps
Tuning
Fun
Troubleshooting
Appendix
FAQ
Helpful Links
Miscellaneous
Introduction
Chris Gerekos

Welcome to the Tesla Coil Design, Construction and Operation Guide. I hope this guide will serve as a comprehensive
step-by-step reference with easy to follow instructions. By following this guide you can build a Tesla coil capable of
generating over 4' arcs of lightning.
Design
The guide will begin with a basic introduction to Tesla coils, how they operate and how to properly design one. This
section mostly contains tedious equations and formulas used in the design process. Fortunately the use of software
programs, like the TeslaMap Tesla coil design program can quickly and easily perform all the necessary calculations
for you. If you decide to use a program, you can skip the design section and use it as a reference. This section will
likely make more sense after reading the Construction section, which describes the Tesla coil parts in greater detail.
Construction
This section will guide you through the process of Tesla coil construction. I'll show you all the required parts and offer
advice to help you avoid mistakes.
Operation
Finally, I'll explain how to set-up and adjust your Tesla coil for safe operation and maximum efficiency. I'll offer some
troubleshooting tips to help you solve those little issues that often come up.
This guide is intended for anyone with basic to advanced experience with electronics, some free time and a desire to
create their own lightning. It's helpful to have some hands-on experience with electronics, but it's not necessarily
required. This guide only covers traditional Tesla coils, not solid-state Tesla coils or magnifying Tesla coils. However,
all types of Tesla coils share many common parts and principles of operation so this guide may still be used as a
reference for other types of Tesla coils. I try to assure that all the information in this guide is correct, but research is
continually producing new techniques and old ideas are being improved or discarded. Please let me know if you have a
correction or suggestion by emailing me at: kevin@teslacoildesign.com and I'll get back to you as soon as I can.
This guide was written to be used in conjunction with the TeslaMap program. The TeslaMap program is the fastest and
easiest way to design a Tesla coil. Several sample Tesla coil designs are included with the TeslaMap program.
TeslaMap is ideal for quickly and easily generating a working Tesla coil design, however it is not a Tesla coil modeling
program. A slightly more accurate program called JAVATC written by Bart Anderson can provide more detailed Tesla
coil parameters, although it can be more difficult and time consuming to use.
Through the guide I use this type of area for information that is potentially dangerous. Please pay careful attention to
this information.
Through the guide I use this type of area for information that can help you avoid common mistakes.
Please feel free to email me at: kevin@teslacoildesign.com if you have any questions or suggestions.
Good luck building your Tesla coils!
top
Introduction
Design
Construction
Operation
Appendix
Printing is not available due to copyright infringement issues.
Sorry,
Introduction
Design
Theory Of Operation
Power Supply
Primary Capacitance
Secondary Coil
Top Load
Primary Coil
Construction
Schematic
Parts
Power Supply (NST)
Spark Gap
Primary Coil
Secondary Coil
Top Load
PFC Capacitors
NST Protection
Line Filters
Chassis
Required Tools
Wiring
Grounding
Operation
Safety
Adjusting Gaps
Tuning
Fun
Troubleshooting
Appendix
FAQ
Helpful Links
Miscellaneous
Menu
Introduction
Design
Construction
Operation
Appendix
Theory of Operation
Design
Schematic
I'm not going to provide a thorough explanation because several other people have already done so (refer to links
below). Also, a deep understanding of Tesla coil operation is unnecessary for people wishing to build a Tesla coil.
However, I will offer a short description of Tesla coil operation that should help you design and build your Tesla coil.
A Tesla coil is a resonate transformer containing a primary and secondary LC circuit. The two LC circuits are loosely
coupled together. Power is supplied to the primary circuit through a transformer, which charges a capacitor. Eventually
the voltage across the capacitor will increase sufficiently to short a spark gap. The capacitor will discharge through the
spark gap and into the primary coil. The energy will oscillate back and forth between the primary capacitor and primary
coil inductor at high frequencies (typically 100 - 300 kHz). The primary coil is coupled to an inductor in the secondary
circuit, called the secondary coil. Attached to the top of the secondary coil is a top load that provides capacitance for
the secondary LC circuit. As the primary circuit oscillates, power is induced in the secondary coil where the voltage is
multiplied many times. A high voltage, low current field develops around the top load and arcs of lightning discharge in
a sweet display of awesomeness. The primary and secondary LC circuits must oscillate at the same frequency to
achieve maximum power transfer. The circuits in the coil are usually "tuned" to the same frequency by adjusting the
inductance of the primary coil.
This copyright protected material has been illegally used without the permission of the owner. Please visit
www.teslacoildesign.com for the original and most recent version of this material.
For a more detailed description I recommend the following resources:
The Tesla Coil by Chris Gerekos
Chris has written an outstanding paper offering a very detailed and technical explanation of Tesla coil operation. He
also shares his experience constructing the "Zeus" Tesla coil. The paper is in pdf format.
Tesla Coil Theory by Terry Blake http://www.tb3.com/tesla/theory.html
Richard Burnett's page http://www.richieburnett.co.uk/tesla.shtml
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Power Supply
Design
The power supply is a high voltage transformer used to charge the primary capacitor. Neon Sign Transformers (NSTs)
are the most common power supply used in small to medium sized Tesla coils. For the rest of the guide I'll refer to the
power supply transformer as a NST.
These calculations will be used to determine the optimum sized primary capacitor (in the next section).
NST VA = NST Vout NST Iout
NST Impedance = NST Vout NST Iout
We aren't required to calculate the NST watts, but it may be helpful for selecting resistors, fuses, wire gauges, etc.
NST Watts = ((0.6 NST VA 0.5) + 1) NST VA
A Power Factor Correction (PFC) capacitor can be wired across the NST input terminals to correct the AC power phase
and increase efficiency. The optimum PFC capacitance is found with the following equation.
PFC Capacitance (F) = NST VA (2 pi NST Fin (NST Vin2))
Where:
Fin is input frequency

pi = 3.14
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Primary Capacitance
Design
The primary capacitor is used with the primary coil to create the primary LC circuit. A resonate sized capacitor can
damage a NST, therefore a Larger Than Resonate (LTR) sized capacitor is strongly recommended. A LTR capacitor
will also deliver the most power through the Tesla coil. Different primary gaps (static vs. sync rotary) will require
different sized primary capacitors.
Primary Resonate Capacitance (uF) = 1 (2 pi NST Impedance NST Fin)
Primary LTR Static Capacitance (uF) = Primary Resonate Capacitance 1.6
Primary LTR Sync Capacitance (uF) = 0.83 (NST Iout (2 NST Fin) NST Vout)
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Secondary Coil
Design
The secondary coil is used with the top load to create the secondary LC circuit.
The secondary coil should generally have about 800 to 1200 turns. Some secondary coils can have 2000 turns. Magnet
wire is used to wind the coil. There's always a little space between turns, so the equation assumes the coil turns are 97%
perfect.
Secondary Coil Turns = (1 (Magnet Wire Diameter + 0.000001)) Secondary Wire Winding Height 0.97
The capacitance of the secondary coil will be used to calculate the secondary LC circuit resonate frequency. Coil
dimensions are given in inches.
Secondary Capacitance (pf) = (0.29 Secondary Wire Winding Height + (0.41 (Secondary Form Diameter 2)) +
(1.94 sqrt(((Secondary Form Diameter 2) 3) Secondary Wire Winding Height))
The height to width ratio should be about 5:1 for small Tesla coils, 4:1 for average sized Tesla coils and about 3:1 for
large Tesla coils. Refer to the secondary coil construction section to define small, average and large.
Secondary Height Width Ratio = Secondary Wire Winding Height Secondary Form Diameter
The length of the secondary coil is used to calculate the wire weight. In the past it was thought that the secondary coil
wire length should match the quarter wave length of the Tesla coil's resonate frequency. However, it has since been
determined that it's unnecessary.
Secondary Coil Wire Length (ft) = (Secondary Coil Turns (Secondary Form Diameter pi)) 12
Magnet wire is typically sold by weight, so it's important to know the required wire weight.
Secondary Coil Wire Weight (lbs) = pi ((Secondary Bare Wire Diameter 2) 2) Secondary Coil Wire Length 3.86
The inductance of the secondary coil will be used to calculate the secondary LC circuit resonate frequency.
Secondary Inductance = ((((Secondary Coil Turns 2) ((Secondary Form Diameter 2) 2)) ((9 (Secondary Form
Diameter 2)) + (10 Secondary Wire Winding Height))))
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Top Load
Design

Toroid Dimensions
The top load is used with the secondary coil to create the secondary LC circuit. Generally a toroid or sphere shape is
used. The ring diameter refers to the ring in a toroid shape. The overall diameter refers to the widest length from edge
to edge of a toroid shape. I've found several equations for different sized top loads. Without knowing which is the most
accurate in any case, I use the average of all the equations.
For large or small toroids with ring diameter < 3" or ring diameter > 20", use the average of three toroid capacitance
calculations.
Toroid Capacitance 1 = ((1 + (0.2781 Ring Diameter (Overall Diameter))) 2.8 sqrt((pi (Overall Diameter
Ring Diameter)) 4))
Toroid Capacitance 2 = (1.28 Ring Diameter Overall Diameter) sqrt(2 pi Ring Diameter (Overall Diameter
Ring Diameter))
Toroid Capacitance 3 = 4.43927641749 ((0.5 (Ring Diameter (Overall Diameter Ring Diameter))) 0.5)
Toroid Capacitance = (Toroid Capacitance 1 + Toroid Capacitance 2 + Toroid Capacitance 3) 3
Ring diameter between 3" and 6"
Toroid Capacitance Lower = 1.6079 Overall Diameter 0.8419
Toroid Capacitance Upper = 2.0233 Overall Diameter 0.8085
Toroid Capacitance = (((Ring Diameter 3) 3) (Toroid Capacitance Upper Toroid Capacitance Lower)) + Toroid
Capacitance Lower
Toroid Capacitance = (((Ring Diameter 6) 6) (Toroid Capacitance Upper Toroid Capacitance Lower)) + Toroid
Capacitance Lower

Toroid Capacitance = (((Ring Diameter 12) 12) (Toroid Capacitance Upper Toroid Capacitance Lower)) +
Toroid Capacitance Lower
Small Tesla coils may use a sphere shaped top load.
Sphere Capacitance = 2.83915 (Sphere Diameter 2)
The total secondary capacitance includes the capacitance in the secondary coil and the capacitance of the top load. If
you use multiple top loads, add their capacitance to calculate the total secondary capacitance. The total secondary
capacitance will be used to calculate the secondary resonate frequency.
Total Secondary Capacitance = Secondary Coil Capacitance + Top Load Capacitance
The secondary LC circuit resonate frequency will be used to calculate the amount of primary coil inductance required to
tune the Tesla coil.
Secondary Resonate Frequency = 1 (2 pi sqrt((Secondary Inductance 0.001) (Total Secondary Capacitance)))
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Primary Coil
Design

Primary Coil Dimensions
The primary coil is used with the primary capacitor to create the primary LC circuit. The primary coil is also responsible
for transferring power to the secondary coil.
First, we should determine the inductance required to tune the Tesla coil. After the inductance is calculated for each turn
on the primary coil, we can use the "Needed Primary Inductance" value to indicate the proper turn where we should tap
the primary coil. It will also indicate the minimum number of turns required in the primary coil. Of course, the primary
coil should have several extra turns - just in case you need them.
Needed Primary Inductance = 1 (4 pi2 (Secondary Fres 1000)2 Primary Capacitance)
Where:
Fres is the Secondary Resonate Frequency
The following equations will calculate the dimensions of the primary coil and the inductance of the coil at each turn.
Unfortunately, you may need to run through these equations several times to determine the inductance at each turn. Of
course, the TeslaMap program can quickly and easily calculate the dimensions and inductance of the coil out to 100
turns.
Primary Coil Hypotenuse = (Primary Coil Wire Diameter + Primary Coil Wire Spacing) Turns
Primary Coil Adjacent Side = Primary Coil Hypotenuse cos(toRadians(Primary Coil Incline Angle))
Primary Coil Diameter = (Primary Coil Adjacent Side 2) + Primary Coil Center Hole Diameter
Primary Coil Height = Primary Coil Wire Diameter + Primary Coil Adjacent Side tan(toRadians(Primary Coil Incline
Angle))
Primary Coil Wire Length (ft) = (Primary Coil Diameter pi) 12
Primary Coil Average Winding Radius = (Primary Coil Center Hole Diameter 2) + (Primary Coil Hypotenuse 2)
Primary Coil Inductance Flat = (Primary Coil Average Winding Radius 2 Turns 2) ((8 Primary Coil Average
Winding Radius) + (11 Primary Coil Hypotenuse))
Primary Coil Winding Radius = (Primary Coil Center Hole Diameter 2) + (Primary Coil Wire Diameter 2)
Primary Coil Inductance Helix = ((Turns Primary Coil Winding Radius) 2) ((9 Primary Coil Winding Radius) +
(10 Primary Coil Height))
The inductance of a conical shaped coil is found by calculating the inductance of a flat and helical coil and using the
average of the two coils weighted by the incline angle.
Angle Percent = 0.01 (Primary Coil Incline Angle (100 / 90)
Angle Percent Inverted = (100 (Angle Percent 100)) 0.01
Primary Coil Inductance = (Primary Coil Inductance Helix Angle Percent) + (Primary Coil Inductance Flat Angle
Percent Inverted)
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Sample Design
Design
This is a fairly typical Tesla coil design using a static spark gap, which should be a good starting point for a small to
average sized Tesla coil. This design should produce over 2 foot arcs with the specified input power.
Design Parameter Value (standard) Value (metric)

NST Input Voltage 120 V 240 V
NST Input Frequency 60 Hz 50 Hz
NST Output Voltage 15 kV 15 kV
NST Output Current 30 mA 30 mA
NST Watts 463 W 463 W
Primary Capacitance (MMC) 9 nF 9 nF
Primary Coil Wire Diameter 0.25 in (tubing) 6 mm (tubing)
Primary Coil Wire Spacing 0.25 in 6 mm
Primary Coil Center Hole Diameter 6 in 15 cm
Primary Coil Incline Angle 0 degrees (flat) 0 degrees (flat)
Secondary Coil Magnet Wire Gauge 24 AWG 0.5 mm
Secondary Wire Weight 1.37 lbs 612 g
Secondary Coil Winding Height 22 in 56 cm
Secondary Coil Form Diameter 4.4 in 11 cm
Secondary Coil Turns 972 972
Secondary Coil Height To Width Ratio 5:1 5:1
Toroid Ring Diameter 4 in 11 cm
Toroid Total Diameter 16 in 40 cm
With the power supply listed above (15kV) and using a static spark gap, the primary capacitance (MMC) should be
about 8.6nF (calculated with the TeslaMap program). The MMC should have enough capacitors in series for a
minimum voltage rating of 15kV RMS * 1.414 = 21kV peak. It's a good idea to double the peak voltage rating to about
40kV. Using 0.15uF, 2kV caps, (Cornell Dubilier 942C20P15K-F) a string of 20 wired in series would have 7.5nF at
40kV (also calculated with the TeslaMap program), which is close enough for our needs.
This design was generated with the TeslaMap program. The design file is available for download. Once downloaded,
you can open, edit and save the design with the TeslaMap program. A complete design summary has also been
exported to a txt file from the TeslaMap program, which can be downloaded and viewed in any text editor and most
browsers.
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Introduction
Design
Construction
Operation
Appendix
Sorry,
Kevin
Introduction
Design
Theory Of Operation
Power Supply
Primary Capacitance
Secondary Coil
Top Load
Primary Coil
Construction
Schematic
Parts
Power Supply (NST)
Spark Gap
Primary Coil
Secondary Coil
Top Load
PFC Capacitors
NST Protection
Line Filters
Chassis
Required Tools
Wiring
Grounding
Operation
Safety
Adjusting Gaps
Tuning
Fun
Troubleshooting
Appendix
FAQ
Helpful Links
Miscellaneous
Menu
Introduction
Design
Construction
Operation
Appendix
Tesla Coil Schematic

Construction
This is a basic Tesla coil schematic (click the image to enlarge). The schematic shows a static spark gap. If you're using
a rotary spark gap, simply replace the static gap (the wiring is the same). Older schematics sometimes invert the
location of the spark gap and the primary coil. The Tesla coil will work in either configuration, but due to some
technical reasons, the configuration shown in the schematic is preferred.
The NST case should be grounded. There is some debate as the proper ground for the NST. Some advocate connecting
it to RF ground, others think it should be connected to the mains ground. In the schematic I've shown a switch to
indicate the ground could be attached to either. I personally lean toward connecting the NST to RF ground (earth
ground), but you should make up your own mind.
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Power Supply
Construction
Neon sign transformers (NSTs) are the preferred power supplies. I'll mention some other types of power supplies later in
this section. You should choose a transformer that supplies at least 5kV, otherwise you may have problems with the
spark gap not firing.
Solid state NSTs or recently manufactured NSTs that include a GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter) circuit will not
operate in a Tesla coil.
If a NST has a GFCI (also known as a GFI or ground fault interrupter) circuit, it will "trip" or automatically shut off a
NST when it detects an unusual current in the output of the NST. Unfortunately Tesla coils produce current spikes that
frequently cause the GFCI circuit to shut off the NST, making NSTs with GFCI circuits unreliable in a Tesla coil. NSTs
with a GFCI circuit will usually have a GFCI reset button somewhere on the case or possibly under the top cover. It
may be possible to rewire and bypass the GFCI circuit in the NST, although it may be a very difficult process
depending on the complexity and location of the GFCI wiring. Newer, small NSTs are actually solid state power
supplies that are unsuitable for Tesla coils. I strongly recommend using an older NST to power your Tesla coil. A good
NST should be very heavy and only contain a primary winding, secondary winding and metal core (and probably some
potting material). The output frequency should be the same as the input frequency (50 or 60 Hz).
NSTs are usually fairly easy to obtain and are fairly robust when used with the proper protection circuit. Used NSTs are
often much cheaper than new ones. They can be found at sign shops and salvage / recycling centers. Typically they
either work or they don't. To test a NST, simply connect it to line voltage (wall outlet) and verify it will produce arcs
between the output terminals, or each output terminal to the case (assuming the case is grounded).
If a NST dies, the cause of death is sometimes arcing through the internal potting material. Potting is an insulator,
usually a hard, tar like substance. The NST can be resurrected by removing the top of the case and heating the NST
over a grill to melt the potting material. Baking in an oven is not recommended because of toxic fumes and leaking
potting material. Once the potting is melted it can be stirred to remove the short or poured out and replaced with
transformer oil. This process is very messy and probably not worth the effort if another NST can be found. The use of
solvents to dissolve the potting material may also be an option.
NSTs have shunts or metal plates between the primary and secondary coils which limits the current even when the
output is shorted. The current limiting makes NSTs more robust than other transformers. The shunts can be removed to
provide a bit more current, but the chances of winding damage increases.
The primary, low voltage side of a NST should be wired through a line filter which is connected to the house or building
mains. A PFC cap should be wired across the primary terminals, but the NST can be run without it. Common NST
power outputs are 9kV, 12kV or 15kV @ 30mA or 60mA.
NSTs can be wired in parallel to supply additional current to the Tesla coil. Do not try to wire them in series, the extra
voltage will short the secondary windings and damage the NST. NSTs with different output currents can be wired in
parallel, but if the output voltages are significantly different (more than a few volts), one NST will begin to overheat.
Follow this procedure to test NST compatibility...
Determine the phase of the NST outputs by checking for arcs between the output terminals of the NSTs.
Connecting an output terminal of one NST to an output terminal of the second NST (leaving a small spark gap).
If you see an arc then the terminals are out of phase.
Put a mark on the output terminals that are in phase. Also mark the low voltage input terminals since switching
one of the input terminals will switch the phase of the output terminals.
Connect a 1 kilohm 1/4 watt resistor between the output terminals that are in phase.
Run the NSTs for a few minutes, disconnect power to the NST and feel if the resistor is hot.
If the resistor feels hot then too much current is flowing through the NSTs and they should not be used in parallel.
Other transformers can be used such as oil burner igniter transformers (OBITs), microwave over transformers (MOTs)
or distribution transformers used in the power grid, often seen on telephone poles and sometimes referred to as "pole
pigs". Pole pigs are sometimes given away by the power companies, but they are extremely dangerous and heavy.
Pole pigs have no current limiting and can easily kill you. Some may contain hazardous chemicals such as PCBs. I do
not recommend using pole pigs to power a Tesla coil unless you really know what you're doing!
Another power supply option is a bombarding transformer. My information is limited, but they seem to be high power
transformers used to make neon signs. They typically operate around 450-800 mA at 22-26 kV. They are apparently
very heavy (150-200 lbs), expensive and difficult to find. I'll add more information as I learn more.
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Construction

Bart Anderson

Terry Blake

The primary capacitor is used with the primary coil to create the primary LC circuit.
The primary capacitor is usually made of several dozen caps wired in a series / parallel configuration called a Multi-
Mini Capacitor (MMC). A single pulse type capacitor can be used, but they are harder to find, cannot be adjusted and
are more difficult to replace. Also, when a MMC fails it can usually be fixed by replacing an individual capacitor in the
array, but if a pulse cap fails it must be replaced.
Other types of capacitors can be made, including salt water beer bottle caps, rolled aluminum foil caps and stacked plate
caps. Home made capacitors generally require a lot of work and they often fail. Salt water beer bottle caps are
inefficient and it's difficult to know how much capacitance you're working with. Rolling or stacking caps with layers of
aluminum foil and plastic insulators have not shown much success. Often the plastic will have microscopic holes or
weak spots that quickly short out. Small air pockets between the layers heat up and can explode. Rolled and stacked
caps need to be submerged in oil to reduce corona, which can be messy. Despite the higher cost, I recommend using
factory produced caps. The primary capacitor is run under extremely demanding conditions. It's exposed to high
voltages and very short charge / discharge cycle times. Factory caps can tolerate these conditions much better than
anything most of us can make ourselves at home.
Caps usually have a VAC and VDC rating. When using caps as the primary capacitor in a Tesla coil, they will only be
charged and discharged for a very short time. Because the caps are "pulsed", we can use the VDC rating when
designing the MMC. Although it seems odd, the VAC rating should be ignored.
Normally 1.6kV to 2kV caps are used in the MMC array. Several caps are wired in series to provide adequate voltage
rating. It's good practice to construct the MMC to withstand 2 or 3 times the peak voltage rating from the NST. For
example, using a 15kV RMS power supply (15000 * 1.414 = 21kV peak) the MMC should have a minimum voltage
rating of 40 to 60kV. However, good quality caps can be run closer to their specified rating. Terry Fritz tested three
CD942C20P15K capacitors at their rated DC voltage and they lasted for 75 hours before failing. Although 75 hours
may not seem like a long life expectancy, most Tesla coils are only run for short intervals. A typical MMC will have
about a dozen caps in each series sting. Normally a few series strings will be wired in parallel to provide adequate
capacitance. The TeslaMap program has a MMC calculator that makes MMC design fast and easy.
Many people eventually upgrade their Tesla coil by switching to a rotary spark gap or adding additional NSTs. Both of
these changes will affect the required MMC capacitance. It's prudent to consider future upgrades when planning and
constructing your MMC. The MMC can be constructed with tap points between the capacitors so the capacitance of the
array can be easily adjusted. It's also a good idea to consider leaving space to add an additional series string of
capacitors in the future. Occasionally a cap in the MMC may fail, so the MMC should be designed to allow
replacement of individual caps.
MMC caps can explode (actually just pop) and / or catch fire when they fail. The MMC should be designed and located
to minimize damage if a cap fails.
Always solder bleeder resistors in parallel with each capacitor. The high resistance will allow the caps to slowly
discharge and prevent them from holding a dangerous charge.
A 1 to 10 Mohm bleeder resistor should be wired across each capacitor to prevent the caps from holding a dangerous
charge. The bleeder resistors should not be in direct contact with the case of the capacitor as arcing can occur. It's a
good idea to solder the resistors to the opposite side the pref board, or whatever you mount the caps on. When wiring
the MMC it's best to twist the capacitor leads together then solder. Don't bother etching copper tracings on the circuit
board. The thin copper can't handle the current in the MMC.
I recommend keeping all connections in the MMC as short as possible, especially connections that connect the different
series strings. Long or poor connections between the series strings can create an imbalance of current through them.
The strings closest (with the least resistance) to the main connection will receive more current.
Most capacitors are not designed to handle the high frequency, high voltage charging and discharging in a Tesla coil.
It's important to use the correct type of caps in the MMC. Most caps will quickly fail when used in a Tesla coil. Look
for these qualities in a good MMC cap:
Polypropylene type caps

Metal "foil" type, especially foil electrodes
High dV/dT rating (min of 1000 - 2000 V/uS)
High RMS current capacity (min of 10 - 15 Amps)
High peak current capacity (min of several hundred amps)
Self healing ability
Avoid "metallized" or "metal film" (the metal film is too thin to handle Tesla coil currents). Avoid polyester capacitors.
dV/dT is an important specification in Tesla coil capacitors. It states how fast voltages can change in the capacitor.
Tesla coils operate at high voltages and high frequencies so it's important to use caps with high dV/dT ratings. The
dV/dT is usually stated as V/uS. dV/dT is calculated as:
dV/dT = 2 x pi x Vpeak x Frequency
For example:
If we have a MMC running at 15kV RMS (15000 * 1.414 = 21kV peak) but we have 10 series caps in our MMC, so
each cap has 2.1kV. Assume a 160kHz resonate frequency. The dV/dT is calculated as follows.
dV/dT = 2 x pi x Vpeak x Frequency
dV/dT = 2 x pi x 2121 x 160000
dV/dT = 2132261765 V/S
dV/dT = 2132 V/uS
So under these conditions you should choose caps with a minimum dV/dT of about 2000 V/uS. You can use dV/dT to
estimate peak current by using the following calculation:
Ipeak = Capacitance * dV/dT
Using our dV/dT from above with a 0.056uF cap:
Ipeak = 0.000000056 * 2132261765
Ipeak = 119.4 Amps
The following is a good / bad cap list that was created many years ago by several Tesla coil builders. Some of the caps
may no longer be available. The VDC rating is used because the caps are pulsed in a Tesla coil.
Recommended MMC Caps
Manufacturer Part Number Voltage (VDC) Value (uF)

941C series (1) 600-3000 0.01-4.7
942C20P15K
2000
0.15
942C16P15K
1600
0.15

942C20P10K
2000
0.1
Cornell Dubilier
942C20S47K
2000
0.047
942C20S68K
?
0.068
942C series untested*
1600 - 2000
943C series untested*

1600 - 2000
ECW-H16473JV 0.047
Panasonic ECW-H16563JV 1600
0.056
ECW-H series untested*
.0047-.056
Seacor KP25 1600 0.047
SB Electronics 16PSS50 1600 0.05
RS-114-474 0.047
Arcotronics 1500

KP1-72
0.1
FKP-1
Wima
FKP-4 untested*

KP/MMKP 2000 0.0047

Phillips

KP/MMKP-376
1600
0.056
Mallory PVC1611 1600 0.01
683PPB202K 2000
Illinois Cap. 0.068
683PPB102K
1000
BC Components BC1971-ND 1600 0.01
Evox RIFA (Kerment) PHE450 (2) 2000 0.15
* Not all of the caps listed in this row have been tested. They should work, but please check the capacitor specifications
(dV/dT, RMS current, etc.)
(1) Approved by Dr. Resonance
(2) Tested by Matt
Not Recommended For MMC Caps

Note - Some of these caps can work in a Tesla coil, but they have poor dV/dT specs and will fail sooner than the
recommended caps.
Manufacturer Part Number Voltage (VDC) Value (uF)

940C20S33K
2000 0.033
Cornell Dubilier
avoid the 940

series
Phillips MKP336-2
G.E. 42L4102 3000 0.01
G.E. 42L3332 2000 0.33
Using a resonate sized primary capacitor can destroy a NST.
NSTs do not operate well with resonate capacitance. A resonate sized cap can cause a condition known as resonate rise
which causes voltages in the primary circuit to increase far above normal levels. These high voltages can easily damage
a NST, so NSTs should only be used with Larger Than Resonate (LTR) primary capacitors. To minimize the risk of a
resonate condition in the primary circuit I use a MMC at 1.618 times the resonate size. The ratio of 1:1.618 is known as
pi or the golden ratio. Any two numbers in this ratio will have the fewest common multiples which will result in
virtually no chance of resonance. Also, LTR caps will transfer the most power through the Tesla coil.
Capacitors can be ordered on the Internet, although they may be difficult to find. Sometimes a fellow coiler will order
several hundred and resell them to other coilers. The following links should be a good starting point:
Tesla Stuff
octopart.com
Use a safety gap to protect the primary capacitor.
A safety gap should be placed in parallel with the primary capacitance to protect the capacitor from voltage spikes.
However, the caps should not be allowed to short directly through the safety gap because the rapid discharge will stress
the caps. To prevent the safety gap from shorting out the caps (which is almost as bad a voltage spikes) a high wattage,
low value resistor (a few ohms) should be placed in series with the safety gap. The resistor should not be a wire wound
type, which may contain inductance and create undesirable effects. No quenching is required in the safety gap.
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Spark Gap
Construction

ozonejunkie.com

John Freau

Terry Blake
The spark gap is used as a switch to momentarily connect the primary capacitor to the primary coil. When the gap is
shorted the cap is allowed to discharge into the coil.
Many spark gap designs can be used. Spark gaps come in two basic designs: static and rotary. When the gap electrodes
are stationary, the gap is referred to as a "static" gap. A rotary gap uses rotating electrodes.
The most simple gap design is a static gap consisting of 2 bolts, wires, drawer knobs, or other conductors that act as the
electrodes. The electrodes should be smooth and rounded with no sharp edges that could cause the gap to short
erratically. The gap between the electrodes is set to a specific width. The width determines the voltage required for the
gap to short. The ideal gap will short just as the primary cap reaches it's peak voltage. The gap should be designed to
allow small and easy adjustments to its width. Knobs screwed onto bolts are a good choice. Adjusting the gap width is
as simple as turning the knob or the bolt.
Static gaps are simple and easy, but they have some shortcomings. Often the gap will continue to short after the cap
voltage has fallen significantly below it's peak - and even below the voltage required to short the gap. This happens
because the air between the gap becomes ionized when the gap shorts. The ionized air is more conductive and allows
the gap to remain shorted. The performance of a static gap can be improved by blowing air through the gap. This is
called "quenching" the gap. The goal of quenching is to blow the ionized air out of the gap. I've used 12 volt computer
case fans, others have used vacuum cleaner motors. Generally the more air you can blow through the gap the better.
A Richard Quick (RQ) design uses several copper tubes to divide up the spark gap into multiple smaller gaps. The
Richard Quick design usually performs better than a standard static gap with two electrodes.
An improvement to a simple static gap is a rotary gap. A rotary gap uses a motor to rotate the gap electrodes, which can
precisely control the gap shorting. Two different types of motors can be used to drive a rotary gap; synchronous and
asynchronous (also called "sync" and "async"). Synchronous motors rotate in sync with the power supply frequency (50
or 60 Hz). Sync motors will always run at a multiple of the input frequency. Common speeds are 1200 RPM, 1800
RPM and 3600 RPM for 60Hz input frequencies. Async motors do not rotate in sync with the line frequency.
Rotary gaps come in two basic designs: disk and propeller. The disk design is more common and uses a disk mounted
on the motor shaft. The disk has electrodes placed around the edge that rotate and line up with stationary electrodes to
create the spark gap. A propeller design looks like an airplane propeller. The electrode is mounted on the motor shaft
(but insulated from the shaft) and rotated to line up with stationary electrodes to create the spark gap.
NSTs should only be used with static gaps or rotary gaps with sync motors.
Smaller or weaker sync motors may have trouble turning a disk or propeller. In this case the motor may not start or it
may lose sync. When the motor loses sync it will attempt to re-sync. During this time the RPM will vary slightly as the
motor "hunts" for the sync RPM. If this is a problem then a lighter propeller gap is a good solution. The rotational
power of a sync motor is called torque and is usually measured in in/oz (inch ounces). Torque can be complicated, so I
prefer to use watts when dealing with sync motors. For most rotary spark gaps the motor should produce at least 10 to
15 watts. More is always better. I have not had much success with 5 watt sync motors.
Care must be taken to avoid an electrode being thrown out of the gap at high speeds. Rotary gaps should always be
mounted in a box or constructed with some walls to contain a loose propeller, disk or electrode. Terry Blake has a good
bit of info on gap safety here: http://www.tb3.com/tesla/sparkgaps/safety.html
Typically the gap is designed to short or "break" 120 times a second (120 BPS) when run from a 60Hz supply. This will
correspond to the 60 Hz primary cap charging. It may sound like the spark gap will be firing twice the required rate, but
remember that the 60 Hz waveform includes a positive and negative peak, so the gap fires on both peaks.
The number of electrodes will need to be chosen to provide 120 BPS depending on the motor RPM. The following
chart lists the required electrodes to produce 120 BPS with different motor RPMs.
RPM = Rotations Per Minute
RPS = Rotations Per Second
BPR = Breaks Per Revolution (required for 120 BPS)
Sync Motor RPM and Required Electrodes
RPM RPS BPR Electrodes

3600 60 2 2
1800 30 4 4
1200 20 6 6
900 15 8 8
I do not recommend a disk diameter smaller than about 5 inches, especially with high RPM motors because they can
create a swirling cloud of ionized gas in the gap.
Old sync motors can be found on record players or old computer reel equipment. Some have been found at military
surplus stores. New ones can be ordered online. Hurst and Oriental Motor makes good motors.
Terry Blake has a lot of really good information on rotary spark gaps here:
http://www.tb3.com/tesla/sparkgaps/index.html
Spark gaps must cope with extremely high currents. Most electrodes will quickly develop burning and pitting on their
surfaces. Tungsten is a good choice of spark gap electrodes. It has the highest melting point of any metal so it resists
burring and pitting. It can be found as welding rods, in drill bits, etc. Tungsten welding rods come in several different
types, each with different properties. The rods have a colored band on the end to identify the type of rod. The color
code is:
Color Additive
Green Pure
Red Thoriated
Black, Gold or Blue Lanthanated
White or Brown Zirconiated
Orange Ceriated
Gray Rare Earth
Note - The color code can very between countries.
Thoriated tungsten welding rods contain very small amounts of radioactive thorium.
Thorium is a radioactive element and can be dangerous to your health. Always use a dusk mask when grinding or
cutting thoriated tungsten. Carefully clean any grinding dust and wash your hands. Be careful not to inhale or ingest
dust from thoriated tungsten. If your spark gaps use thoriated tungsten, always run them in well ventilated locations.
Before you start to panic, please be aware that thorium is actually quite safe. It's used in very small amounts (2%) in
thoriated welding rods. It emits alpha radiation, which is usually not harmful. Alpha radiation is very weak and non-
penetrating. The thoriated welding rods are not radioactive because the tungsten blocks any radiation given off by the
thorium in the rod. However, thorium can be harmful if you inhale or ingest dust caused by grinding or cutting the rod.
But again, it's not a danger if you avoid the dust.
Although tungsten seems perfect for spark gaps, it can be expensive. It's very hard and fairly brittle. I've had some
difficulty cutting tungsten welding rods. A hack saw will not work. A Dremel cut off wheel is difficult, but seems to be
the easiest cutting method I've found. The welding rods tend to crack easily when stressed. I've been informed that
tungsten rods can be easily snapped to size using two pairs of pliers, or pliers and a vise. After being snapped or cut to
size, the ends should be ground or sanded to a nice round shape so they arc consistently.
Whatever type of spark gap you choose, it will need to be adjusted for optimum performance. The adjustment procedure
is outlined in the spark gap adjustment section.
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Primary Coil
Construction

ozonejunkie.com

Matt Garrett
The primary coil is used with the primary capacitor to create the primary LC tank circuit. The primary coil also couples
to the secondary coil to transfer power from the primary to the secondary circuit.
Typically 1/4 inch copper tubing is used to make the primary coil. I've used 6 AWG solid copper successfully, although
my hands were sore for a few days after bending the wire. Some people have used flat copper ribbon to save space, but
tapping the turns (attaching a wire) can be more difficult. Avoid using other metals like steel due to it's higher
resistance at high frequencies. Leave about 1/4 inch spacing between turns. This will prevent arcing and allow space for
a tap point. The primary coil can be constructed on just about any non conductive material. The material should be
strong enough to support the weight of the copper. You'll need a form with some means to hold the copper turns in
place. Plastic wire ties or plastic bars with notches every 1/4 inch are common. If you get copper tubing or wire that is
coiled or wound on a spool do not unwind it before making the primary coil. Use the natural shape of the coil to help do
the winding. Try not to straighten and bend the tubing or wire too much as this will cause it to harden.
The primary coil is usually flat, called a "pancake" coil. A cone shape, or conical primary is also very common. Some
smaller Tesla coils can use a vertical helix shaped primary. Generally, larger Tesla coil use flat primaries and smaller
coil can use cone shape primaries. I recommend using a flat coil. Flat coils are easier to build and the conical / vertical
helix shapes will raise the top of the primary coil closer to the top load which increases the chances of an arc striking
the primary coil. The conical and vertical helix shapes will also increase coupling between the primary and secondary
coils. Maximum coupling is usually the goal in most transformers, but Tesla coils need to be loosely coupled. Over
coupling (or poor RF grounding) can cause arcing up and down the secondary coil. If you see arcs running up your
secondary coil then the primary and secondary coils could be over-coupled and they should be moved further apart. An
easy way to do this is to simply raise the secondary coil up a bit. If a conical primary is used the angle should not be
greater than 45 degrees.
The primary coil should have a strike ring about 2 inches above the outer most turn. This ring will hopefully stop arcs
from the top load from reaching the primary coil. An arc strike to the primary coil can produce a voltage spike large
enough to kill the primary caps and / or NSTs. The ring should not be completely closed. One end should attach to the
secondary earth ground. Smaller coils that do not produce arcs long enough to reach the primary coil do not require a
strike ring, although it never hurts to have one.
Before construction the primary coil you should know how many turns will be required to tune the coil and the length of
tubing or wire you'll need. The TeslaMap program can help you easily design your primary coil.
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Secondary Coil
Construction

tesladownunder.com

ozonejunkie.com

The secondary coil and the top load create the secondary LC tank circuit. The secondary coil also couples to the primary
coil and transfers power from the primary circuit to the secondary circuit.
The size of the secondary coil is generally governed by the size of the power supply. For an average sized Tesla coil
(about 1kW) you'll want a 4 inch to 6 inch diameter secondary coil. Smaller coils should have about 3 inch to 4 inch
diameters, while larger coils should have at least a 6 inch diameter. The height to width ratio (also known as the aspect
ratio) is important. If the coil is too short then you'll get a lot of strikes from the top load to the primary coil. The height
of the secondary coil should be about 4 or 5 times the diameter in an average sized Tesla coil. For example the
secondary coil on a 1kW Tesla coil with a 4 inch diameter should be about 16 to 20 inches high. Remember to cut the
secondary form a couple inches longer than the winding height to leave some space on each end! Smaller coils should
have a height to width ratio close to 6:1, while larger coils should be closer to 3:1.
The secondary wire is typically thin (22 AWG to 28 AWG) magnet wire. Magnet wire is solid copper wire with a thin
coating of varnish as an insulator. It's sold by the pound or the gram. You'll probably need about 2 pounds to wind a
typical coil. Double build magnet wire is available with extra insulation, but it's not necessary. Aim for about 1000
turns (+-200) on the secondary coil.
The secondary coil is usually wound on PVC pipe, although cardboard and many other non-conductive materials can be
used. White PVC pipe is almost always safe to use. Gray PVC is usually safe, but black PVC may contain larger
amounts of carbon which can create problems in some Tesla coils. Some PVC may come with a thin metal strip in it.
This is used to help find the pipe after it's buried. Do not use this pipe as the metal strip will quickly short out the coil.
In fact you'll want to avoid any metal screws, bolts, plates, etc on the secondary. A non-conductive nylon bolt can be
used to attach the top load to the secondary coil.
Before you begin winding your secondary coil, you should calculate how may turns you can wind with the given weight
of magnet wire and how long (or tall) the coil will be. This will tell you how much PVC pipe or other form material
you'll need. Of course, the TeslaMap program can make all the calculations for you. The PVC pipe should be clean and
dry.
Winding the coil will take quite a while. Find a comfortable spot with good lighting and plan to be there for quite a
while. A lathe is ideal for holding the PVC pipe while you wind the magnet wire on. Unfortunately, the lathe I used,
even on it's slowest speed, was rotating too fast to wind the coil, so I just chucked the pipe in the lathe and rotated the
pipe by hand. The spool of magnet wire should be mounted so it will be easy to unwind and untangle during the
winding. You may want to wear a thin glove to save the skin on your fingers. Before you start winding the coil, be sure
the PVC pipe or other form is clean and dry. Be sure there's no metal shavings stuck on the form. It's probably a good
idea to throw a coat of Dolph's AC-43, polyurethane or varnish on the form, inside and out to make sure it stays dry.
Start by securing the end of the magnet wire a few inches from the end of the PVC. You can secure the wire with tape
or drilling a couple small holes in the PVC and threading the wire through. Be sure to leave about a foot or two of
magnet wire unwound on the end. Have some tape handy to easily hold the wire for rest breaks or untangling. Be
careful not to leave any space between the windings. Make sure the wire lays flat and straight. Keep some tension on
the wire as you wind it. Tape the end of the magnet wire down when finished and leave a couple feet of extra wire on
each end. Hopefully if your calculations were correct you have just about a few inches of PVC pipe left on each side.
Start coating with Dolph's AC-43, polyurethane or varnish. Remember not to coat the foot of extra wire on each end. I
usually coil this extra wire up and let it stick up and out of the way while I varnish around it. Follow the instructions on
the Dolph's AC-43, polyurethane or varnish and apply several coats. Keep the pipe rotating as the coating dries. A lathe
is ideal, but I've used a hand drill on slow speed to rotate my PVC pipe. You can use other epoxies or sealers, as long as
they're non-conductive and won't eat into the magnet wire insulation or PVC pipe.
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Top Load
Construction
tesladownunder.com
The top load is acts as a capacitor in the secondary circuit.
The shape of the top load will help determine where the arcs will break out. The doughnut or toroid (also called a torus)
is the preferred shape for the top load. As the coil operates a charge will build up around the surface of the top load. A
sphere will have an evenly distributed field strength over it's entire surface. By flattening the sphere into a toroid, the
field strength will increase around the radius of the toroid. The arcs will break out where the field strength is greatest.
The benefit of concentrating the field around the radius is to help direct the arcs outward. Using a sphere will result in
more evenly distributed, but smaller arcs.
The size of the top load and the amount of power applied will dictate the size and number of simultaneous arcs that the
Tesla coil produces. If the top load is small relative to the input power, then it will produce many simultaneous, shorter
arcs. As the size of the top load is increased the number of arcs will be reduced and the arc length will increase. If the
toroid is too large the field strength will not be strong enough to allow any arcs to breakout. Placing a sharp pointed
object like a thumb tack or a small metal ball (called a break out point) on the toroid will create a disruption in the field
and allow the arcs to escape from the break out point.
The most common method of toroid construction is to wrap aluminum dryer duct around an aluminum pie pan. You can
also buy a spun aluminum toroid. A top load can be made of practically anything with a smooth shape covered in
aluminum foil. Avoid using "metal" paint. Usually there is not enough metal in the paint to create a conductive surface,
and even if there is sufficient metal, it's usually quickly burned off.
Generally the diameter of the toroid ring should be about the same as the secondary coil, meaning a secondary coil
wound on 4 inch PVC pipe should use 4 inch diameter dryer duct. The overall diameter of the toroid should be about 4
times the ring diameter, so 4 inch diameter dryer duct should be wrapped around an 8 inch pie pan for a total overall
diameter of 16 inches.
It's important to physically attach the toroid to the top of the secondary coil. You can get by with just sitting the toroid
on top of the secondary coil, but eventually it's going to fall or get bumped off. At best you'll ding up the toroid or your
primary coil, at worst there could be a short that blows out your primary caps or something else. A good way to connect
the toroid to the secondary coil is to get a PVC end cap for the secondary coil, drill a hole in the middle and insert a
nylon bolt sticking up. Drill a hole in the center of the pie pan and slide it onto the nylon bolt. You'll have to use nylon
or some other non conductive bolt. A metal bolt will shoot an arc straight up. A wooden mount can be used, but wood
should be avoided. Wood always has a bit of moisture and is slightly conductive. It can also swell, shrink, warp and
crack.
It's important to have the toroid at the correct height above the secondary windings. If the toroid is too high, you'll see a
corona develop near the top of the secondary windings. You may also see some little arcs from the top of the secondary
coil. The corona and arcs can degrade the secondary winding insulation. If this is a problem try moving the toroid
down. If the toroid is too low you may have frequent arcs striking the primary coil. In this case try to move the toroid
up. If you can't find a suitable placement for the toroid you can try adding a smaller toroid just under the main toroid.
This can help to prevent corona on the secondary windings and strikes to the primary coil.
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PFC Capacitors
Construction
Power factor correction (PFC) capacitors are used to correct the power factor of the AC supplied to the NSTs. When a
circuit contains a large inductance or capacitance the voltage and current will be shifted out of phase, resulting in
reduced efficiency.
The power factor will be degraded due to the large inductance in the NSTs. The capacitance in the PFC cap will realign
the voltage and current phases. The amount of capacitance should be matched to the amount of inductance so the
capacitance and inductance will cancel each other out. The PFC capacitance does not have to be exactly matched to the
transformer. Often the PFC cap is smaller than the recommended size to reduce costs. If you have a suitable capacitor
go ahead and use it, even if it's not large enough. Even a small amount of capacitance will help. Multiple small PFC
caps can be wired in parallel to increase their capacitance. The PFC caps should be wired across the low voltage inputs
of the NST. If you can't get any PFC caps the NSTs can be run without them.
Only use "run" type capacitors for PFC applications.
Be sure to use only "run" type capacitors, as opposed to "start" type capacitors. Start capacitors are designed to only be
used for short periods of time, to start a motor for example. They will overheat and possibly explode if run
continuously. Electrolytic caps should not be used as PFC caps, they'll also heat up and pop.
PFC caps can be found in salvage / recycling centers on AC motors, washing machine motors, refrigerator motors, etc. I
believe it's against the law to bury PFC caps because they contain hazardous chemicals, and recycling centers will
usually have a pile of them waiting for you. PFC caps can also be ordered on the Internet.
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NST Protection
Construction

Terry Fritz
The wire in the NST secondary coil is very, very thin and easily shorted by high voltage spikes generated in the primary
circuit. A spark gap and a low pass filter will help protect the NSTs from voltage spikes and premature death.
I've been using a filter known as the "Terry filter" designed by Terry Fritz for several years with great success. Several
other people have also had good success with the filter. The filter is a typical RC low pass design that consists of
several caps wired in series to shunt high frequency spikes to ground and high power resistors to decouple the NSTs
from the primary circuit. My filter has 1000 ohms of resistance and 0.28nF of capacitance resulting in a cutoff
frequency of about 570 kHz. A spark gap allows high voltage spikes to pass to ground. The spark gap should be set just
wide enough so it does not short when connected directly to the NST output. I omitted the MOVs in my filter. They'll
shunt voltage spikes to ground. Each cap has a high resistance bleeder resistor across the leads. The bleeder resistors
should not be in direct contact with the capacitor case as arcing can occur. Several caps are wired in series to handle the
high voltages from the NST output. The total voltage rating of the series caps should be about 2 to 3 times the peak
voltage of the NST output, although good quality caps can be run at their rated voltage. For example, using a 15kV
RMS power supply (15000 * 1.414 = 21kV peak).
Always solder bleeder resistors in parallel with each capacitor. The high resistance will allow the caps to slowly
discharge and prevent them from holding a dangerous charge.
The type of caps used is not quite as important as cap selection in the MMC. Polypropylene film foil type are preferred.
Metalized caps should be avoided.
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Line Filters
Construction
Line filters are used to prevent high voltage spikes from traveling back into the house or building wiring.
Line filters usually consist of a capacitor to shunt the high frequencies to ground. Most will also use inductors to cut
down the high frequency spikes. Some may have MOVs to shunt voltage spikes to ground.
The line filter should be wired in series with the mains power. It should be wired as far from the Tesla coil as possible.
If it's wired too close, the wires behind the filter may have induced voltages that bypass the filter. When wiring the
filter some people recommend wiring the filter in reverse (the output leads to the house wiring). The logic being that
the filters are normally used to protect a device from spikes in the house wiring, but we're using it to protect the house
wiring from the device. Other people recommend the standard connection orientation. I think it will work either
direction, but I'll let you decide.
Filters can be bought on the Internet or salvaged from equipment. It's possible to design and build your own, but it's
usually much easier to buy one. Be sure to use a filter that's rated for the power supplied to it.
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Chassis
Construction

mgvolt.com
All the individual components that make up a Tesla coil (the NST, MMC, spark gaps, etc) should be mounted in some
sort of chassis, frame, or enclosure. It's possible to lay all the parts out on the floor (as I use to do) and run the Tesla
coil without any chassis, but using a chassis has many advantages. It'll be much easier to move the Tesla coil. Mounting
wheels to the bottom of the chassis is a good idea. Mounting the parts on a chassis will prevent them from moving or
falling. The parts and will be better organized and the wiring can also be more organized, more permanent and safer.
The most common chassis design is several plastic or wood platforms stacked with enough room between platforms to
accommodate the parts. For example the bottom platform will hold the NSTs, and PFC caps. The second platform will
hold the NST protection filter and the MMC capacitor array. The next platform will hold the main spark gap. The next
platform will support the primary coil and the secondary coil. A box can also used.
The chassis is generally made of wood, plastic or some other non-conductive material. It's needs to be structurally stable
to support the weight of the components.
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Tools
Construction
You should have access to a good set of tools and equipment. A good workshop or garage with a nice workbench helps.
The tools you'll use can vary depending on your choice of materials and construction technique. You should also have
the experience or assistance to safely use the tools. I'll list a few things that you're likely to need.
Soldering iron and solder
Multimeter
Drill
Saw for cutting plywood
Hacksaw for cutting wood and PVC
Wire cutters, pliers
Measuring tape, calipers, ruler, etc
Screwdrivers, sockets, wrenches, etc
Epoxy or glue
I'm sure you'll use many other tools, but this should get you started.
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Wiring
Construction
All wiring should be as short an possible. Avoid loops which will create inductance in the wire. Try not to run wires
parallel or close to each other which can induce current in adjacent wires. All wires should be high voltage "GTO"
wire. Low resistance spark plug wire can also be used. Wire with low voltage insulation can be used, but you'll need to
carefully route it away from anything conductive or grounded. All connections should be clean. Soldering is the best
way to connect wires and leads. When high current flows through a connection, it does not take much resistance to
create enough heat to burn the connection. A bad connection will reduce the efficiency of the coil and can possibly start
a fire!
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Grounding
Construction
Grounding is very important for safety and proper operation of a Tesla coil.
The Tesla coil should have two separate grounds. The first ground is the house or building ground (also known as mains
ground). This is the green wire in the electrical outlets. The second ground is RF ground. You'll have to create your
own RF ground for the Tesla coil.
Proper grounding of the Tesla coil components has been debated for quite some time. The general consensus is to
connect anything you will touch during operation of the Tesla coil to the house or building ground. The secondary coil
and anything that may be struck by an arc, or that may experience high voltage transients, should be connected to RF
ground. You may refer to the Tesla coil schematic. The general idea is to use the RF ground to complete the secondary
LC circuit (the ground plane and the toroid will act as capacitor plates), and to pass all high voltage generated by the
Tesla coil to the RF ground. This will hopefully prevent any high voltage spikes making their way into the house or
building wiring. The NST seems to be a good boundary between the house wiring and the Tesla coil wiring because the
primary and secondary windings are basically isolated from each other. Therefore, anything connected between the
house outlet and the NST primary (variac, control panel, line filter) should be grounded to the house ground. The
bottom of the secondary coil, the primary strike rail, NST protection gap and filter should be connected to RF ground.
Grounding the NST case seems to have caused the most confusion. I recommend connecting it to the RF ground
because it's usually more likely to be struck by an arc or experience a voltage spike.
It's important to have a good RF ground. I'll list several ways to create a RF ground, generally in order from most to
least preferred. The best RF ground is a metal grounding rod that you pound into the ground. Although there is already
a ground rod installed outside homes and buildings, you should not use this rod because it's connected to the house or
building ground. You'll have to pound in your own ground rod. The grounding rod should be as close as possible to the
Tesla coil, and as far from the house or building ground rod as possible. Generally 6 or 8 foot depth is recommended,
but it really depends on soil conditions and other factors. Deeper is always better. Several shorter ground rods can be
placed around the Tesla coil if a single rod can't be used. If the ground is very hard or rocky, you may bury your ground
rod horizontally at a depth of 1 to 2 foot. If a ground rod is not possible you can create a "counterpoise" ground by
placing a large piece of metal plate, chicken wire or mesh under the Tesla coil and use it as your RF grounding. The
radius of the plate or mesh should be approximately equal to the height of the secondary coil and top load. If you're on a
concrete foundation with rebar (like a garage) you may be able to connect to the rebar in the concrete foundation. This
is known as a Ufer ground or a "Concrete Encased Electrode". If you're on a ground floor that's at least semi-conductive
you can wet a small area of the floor and put a layer of aluminum foil down connected to your RF ground. This is not
recommended for safety reasons and you'll have to use this method at your own risk. As a last resort you can connect to
a cold water pipe, but I do not recommend doing so. Putting RF into cold water pipes isn't safe.
Braided copper wire can help the conductance of the RF ground, but regular wire will work just fine. Wetting the
ground around the ground rod before running the coil helps conductivity to the earth. Be careful not to damage
underground utilities when hammering in a ground rod. Poor RF grounding may not have any apparent effect on the
Tesla coil - or it could cause reduced arc length, arcing up the secondary coil, or arcing between the primary and
secondary coils.
There is no absolute rule for proper Tesla coil grounding. It's your responsibility to understand the electrical principals
of grounding, seek advice and information, take your situation into account and anticipate potential dangers.
top
Introduction
Design
Construction
Operation
Appendix
Sorry,
Kevin
Please make safety a top priority when working with your Tesla coils.
When working with Tesla coils it's likely you'll be exposed to very high voltages and currents, charged capacitors,
exposed wiring, strong electric and magnetic fields, induced currents, fire dangers, chemical and explosion dangers,
ozone, ultraviolet light and loud noise.
When running a Tesla coil be sure to have fresh air, hearing protection and do not look directly at the spark gaps. Make
sure that people or animals cannot inadvertently enter a dangerous area. Try not to work alone and never work when
tired or under the influence of alcohol, drugs or medications. Have a fire extinguisher and safety glasses near. Tesla
coils may interfere with pacemakers.
This is a list of guidelines found at The Tesla Coil Mailing List:
Never adjust Tesla coils when the power is turned on.

High voltage capacitors may hold a charge long after power is turned off. Always discharge capacitors before
adjusting a primary circuit.
Make sure the metal cases of transformers, motors, control panels and other items associated with Tesla coils are
properly grounded.
Make sure that you are far enough away from the corona discharge so that it cannot strike you. Do not come in
contact with metal objects which might be subject to a strike from the secondary.
The low voltage primary circuit is extremely dangerous! These voltages are especially lethal to humans. Make
sure these circuits are well insulated so users cannot come in contact with the A.C. line voltage.
A safety key should be used in the low voltage circuit to prevent unauthorized use.
Use adequate fusing of the primary power and/or circuit breakers to limit the maximum current to your control
panel. Do NOT count on your home circuit panel to provide adequate protection!
Never operate a Tesla coil in an area where there is standing water, or where a significant shock hazard exists.
Do not operate a Tesla coil when pets or small children are present.
Spend some time laying out your circuits. Hot glue, electrical tape and exposed wiring are quick and easy, but
could be lethal.
The arcs generated by a Tesla coil are dangerous. You may have seen people touching the arcs or shooting arcs out of
their fingers, but they are experienced experts using carefully controlled conditions. Without proper precautions the
arcs can easily burn or kill you. The "skin effect" will offer some protection, but not complete protection all of the time.
You can look, but do not touch!
The NST is especially dangerous because it supplies several thousand volts and you'll be working in close proximity to
it. It's easy to accidentally leave it turned on. Except for a very quiet humming, there's no indication it's turned on.
Tesla coils can generate strong RF interference. It's usually not a problem, but it is a potential problem. Generally the
FCC does not like RF interference and laws are in place that make it illegal to produce RF interference. The
interference can be reduced or eliminated with proper grounding and the use of a Faraday cage.
I've killed several electrical devices that were near my Tesla coil. Out of an abundance of caution I recommend that you
unplug everything in the house and move anything electrical away from the area before running your Tesla coil.
It's a good idea to clean off any dust that may have accumulated on your components before operating your Tesla coil.
Dust can allow shorts to develop.
A good Tesla coil safety document is available on the classictesla.com site.
All about Circuits - Electrical Safety is a good source of information.
top
Adjusting Gaps
Operation
The widths of all the spark gaps in the Tesla coil will need to be carefully adjusted for optimum performance. The
proper width for a spark gap will depend on the electrode size, shape and surface finish. Other factors like humidity and
air pressure will also affect the proper gap width. If you're using a variac I recommend setting the gaps while supplying
full voltage. I've never used a variac in my Tesla coils. In fact, I don't think they are needed and can cause problems.
I recommend disconnecting the NST output from the Tesla coil and connecting each spark gap directly to the NST
output. This will eliminate voltage spikes and things that made it difficult to set the spark gaps. This also allows you to
open the gaps without blowing up your MMC array.
You should start with the safety gaps. To adjust the safety gaps you should reduce the gap width to a very small width
(about 0.1 inch or 2mm). Turn on the NST and verify that the gap is shorting. Unplug the NST. Increase the spark gap
width an additional 0.01 inch or 0.3mm. Turn on the NST and check the gap. If it's still shorting then increase the gap
width an additional 0.01 inch or 0.3mm. Repeat this procedure and continue to increase the gap width until the gap no
longer shorts when the NST is turned on. Follow the same procedure for the MMC protection gap and any other safety
gaps in the Tesla coil.
Once the safety gaps are properly set you can adjust the main spark gap. This procedure only applies to static spark
gaps, not rotary spark gaps. Open the main spark gap width so that it is too wide to short. Connect the main spark gap
directly to the NST output. Turn on the NST and verify that the gap is not shorting. Close the main spark gap width
about 0.1 inch or 2mm at a time until it begins to short.
Do not open the main spark gap any wider than the proper width (described above). Doing so will make your NST much
more susceptible to damaging voltage spikes.
It's possible that corrosion on the spark gaps could alter the optimum gap width. I recommend that you periodically
check your spark gaps, clean them and adjust them as necessary.
Adjusting a rotary gap can be a bit more challenging. The gap firing will have to be synchronous with the charging
voltage peaks. This means that the rotating electrodes will have to line up just as the voltage reaches it's positive or
negative peak. Typically the sync motor is rotated relative to the stationary electrodes until the best performance is
achieved. You can also rotate the disk or propeller that's connected to the motor. John Freau has created a sync gap
electrical remote phase controller that allows you to electrically adjust the motor phase while the Tesla coil is running.
You read more about it on the Tesla's Legacy website, written (I think) by P Tuck. Be sure to use motor "run" caps in
his circuit.
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Tuning
Operation
Before you run your coil you'll need to tune it. Tuning refers to the process of adjusting the resonate frequencies of the
LC tank circuits to the same frequency. The coil must be tuned to produce the longest possible arcs. Usually the
inductance of the primary coil is adjusted because it's the easiest component to adjust. I recommend making the tap at
the innermost turn permanent, and adjusting the tap near the outer turns of the primary coil. The TeslaMap program can
be used to get a good idea of the number of required turns on the primary coil. The typical tuning procedure is to tap the
primary at the suggested number of turns and run the coil checking for the arc length. Adjust the tap point 1 turn (in
either direction) and run the coil again to check arc length. If the arcs are longer then you're moving in the right
direction. Make smaller changes as you get close to the best tap point. Adding a pointed object like a thumb tack to the
top load can help the arcs breakout and make arc measurements easier.
At this point you should be ready to run your Tesla coil. There's always a chance that voltage spikes could find there
way back into the house wiring. I recommend unplugging all electronic devices in the house before running the Tesla
coil. I've always left large appliances (refrigerators, washer, dryer, etc) plugged in and they've never been damaged.
Remember to be safe!
top
Fun Things
Operation
So what cool stuff can you do with your Tesla coil? A few ideas come to mind:
Setting various things on the top load can be fun. Try a banana or an extended tape measure.
Setting a grounded target (like a metal pole) close to the top load gives the arcs something to strike. Arcs hitting a
grounded target will be brighter, thicker and a little longer.
Take some pictures. Film cameras seem to work better than digital cameras. Try adjusting the exposure to about 1
seconds. Long exposure times will require a tripod to prevent blurry photos.
Hold or place a fluorescent tube near the top load (but not close enough to get struck). It will light up without any
apparent power source.
Make an ion propeller. Make a propeller shaped like an "S" out of aluminum foil. Bend the tips up a bit. Attach the
propeller to a thimble or something similar. Set the propeller and thimble on a vertical needle or nail. Be sure the
propeller is balanced and spins freely. The force of the arcs shooting out of the propeller tips will cause it to turn
rapidly.
If your wife's cat is causing trouble... (just kidding!)
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Troubleshooting
Operation
Unfortunately it's not uncommon to have problems with a Tesla coil. This is a list of things you may want to check:
Generally the first thing you should do is double check your wiring and connections.
If the wiring looks good and you throw the switch and nothing happens, then start checking the power supply. Is it
plugged in? Is the fuse or circuit breaker blown? Do you have a GFCI circuit in your NST? If you have multiple NSTs
in parallel, are they wired in phase? You can easily check all this by disconnecting the outputs of the NST filter from
the rest of the Tesla coil and reconnecting the NST outputs to a spark gap with a narrow gap distance. If you get an arc
from the NST filter outputs then the power supply section is working.
If you have a variac, you can try removing it from the circuit. I've never used one in my Tesla coils.
If the power supply area looks good then move on to the spark gaps. Be sure to follow the adjustment procedures in the
spark gap adjustment sections. If the primary gap (a static type gap) is not firing constantly then you can reduce the gap
width a bit and see if that helps. If you have a rotary gap you should make sure the electrodes are lining up just as the
voltage reaches it's peak. The adjustment procedure is covered in the spark gap adjustment section. It's normal for the
safety gaps to fire every few seconds, but anything more than that and you should reset their widths, also covered in the
spark gap adjustment section.
If the main spark gap is shorting correctly but you're not getting any arcs from the toroid then you should place a small,
pointed metal object (like a thumb tack) on the side or top of the toroid. This is called a break out point and will help
the arcs break out of the top load.
You may want to try moving the primary coil closer to the secondary coil to increase coupling. Usually lowering the
secondary coil is the easiest way to adjust the distance, although raising the primary is also an option. Generally the
bottom windings on the secondary coil should be just above the inner primary coil winding. If you see arcs running up
and down the secondary coil then you have over-coupling (or poor RF grounding) and you should move the primary
and secondary coils apart.
You can replace your top load with a smaller top load. This will make it easier for the arcs to break out, but you'll have
to re-tune the coil.
If you still are not seeing arcs from the top load, you can place a fluorescent tube near (maybe 1 foot away) from the top
load. If it lights up (even dimly) when the Tesla coil is running then your top load is generating an electromagnetic
field, but the field is not strong enough to allow arcs to break out. A smaller top load (or more input power) will help
the arcs break out easier.
You should check the MMC. Make sure none of the caps have blown, check all the connections and use a capacitance
meter if you have one.
You may want to check with the experts at the Tesla Coil Mailing List.
If you see some arcs from the top of the secondary coil, under the toroid, it means the toroid is too high above the
secondary coil. Generally the bottom of the top load should be about even with the top windings on the secondary coil.
You can cut about an inch off the top of the secondary, add a smaller toroid below the original toroid or redesign the
toroid to sit closer to the secondary coil windings.
You may be tempted to test the Tesla coil without the secondary and top load in place, but it's generally recommended
to keep the secondary coil and top load in place.
Be patient and don't give up. Tesla coils can be very finicky. I spend more time fiddling with my Tesla coil then I spend
running it, that's half the fun.
top
Introduction
Design
Construction
Operation
Appendix

Introduction
Design
Theory Of Operation
Power Supply
Primary Capacitance
Secondary Coil
Top Load
Primary Coil
Construction
Schematic
Parts
Power Supply (NST)
Spark Gap
Primary Coil
Secondary Coil
Top Load
PFC Capacitors
NST Protection
Line Filters
Chassis
Required Tools
Wiring
Grounding
Operation
Safety
Adjusting Gaps
Tuning
Fun
Troubleshooting
Appendix
FAQ
Helpful Links
Miscellaneous
Menu
Introduction
Design
Construction
Operation
Appendix
FAQ
Appendix
What's the best way to improve efficiency and increase arc length?
Replacing a static spark gap with a rotary spark gap can increase arc length around 20%. Use a variac to increase NST
supply voltage to 140V / 240V. Move the primary coil closer to the secondary coil (unless you see racing arcs on the
secondary coil). Increase the size of the top load.
How much will my electrical bill increase after running my Tesla coil?
An average sized Tesla coil that generates 2' to 4' arcs typically operates on about 1000 watts. Electricity typically costs
about $0.10 / kWh (kilowatt hour). Therefore to operate a typical Tesla coil for 1 hour will cost about $0.10 (however,
it's very rare that a Tesla coil will be operated continuously for an hour).
If I switch from a 9kV NST to a 15kV NST will I have to rebuild the entire Tesla coil?
No. You'll need to adjust the MMC capacitance, reset the spark gaps and re-tune the coil. You can also increase the size
of the top load and adjust the PFC cap, but you don't have to. All the other parts should work fine.
Does it matter if the primary and secondary coils are wound in the same direction?
No. the direction of winding will affect the phase in the primary and secondary, but it won't effect the operation of the
Tesla coil. Try flipping your primary coil upside down and see for yourself.
Why build a Tesla coil?
Building Tesla coils is a great way to learn about electricity, electrical components, assembling / wiring components and
safety. And creating lightning is totally cool! Although, I've had limited success impressing chicks.
How much does it cost to build a Tesla coil?
Cost will depend on many factors, mostly how much you can salvage. Used NSTs are often much cheaper, sometimes
even free. MMC caps, magnet wire, good PVC and dryer duct are all difficult to salvage and will probably have to be
bought new. A small coil might be built for under $100. A large Tesla coil with "nice" parts can cost several hundred
dollars.
Where can I get the parts for a Tesla coil?
Many of the parts can be found at the local home improvement store (Home Depot, Lowe's) or at salvage / recycling
centers, or on the Internet. Check out Alan's store at Tesla Stuff. He has a nice selection of Tesla coil components
including "hard to find" and "one of a kind" items.
Should I build a Tesla coil for a Science Fair?
I don't recommend building a Tesla coil for a science fair. Safety can be a big issue. Even small Tesla coils can generate
very dangerous voltages and currents. You'll have to restrict access to the area around the Tesla coil and constantly
watch it - which is often impractical. The Tesla coil will need to be properly grounded, which can be difficult at science
fair locations. Tesla coils will often have little problems that creep up, usually just before the science fair. Most of the
time when people build their first Tesla coil the results are not very impressive. Sometimes finding parts can take quite
a while, and the science fair will not wait for you.
Can I harvest free energy or power an "off the grid" electrical system with a Tesla coil?
Many people have realized our fiat monetary system and corrupt political leadership will likely lead to increased
financial and political disorder - and possible electrical outages and price increases. I'm often asked if a Tesla coil can
be used to generate or gather power. No, a Tesla coil cannot harvest free energy, ambient energy, operate at "over-
unity" or generate any useful power. If you're concerned about power outages and want to be energy independent, I
recommend solar panels and / or wind turbines with batteries to supply electricity. Please be very cautious about "free
energy" or "over-unity" scams.
top
Helpful Links
Appendix
These resources have helped me a great deal, and hopefully they can help you too.
Tesla Coil Mailing List
If you have a question about Tesla coils, it's probably been asked and answered in the searchable archive.
Tesla Stuff
For several years Alan has provided high quality Tesla coil components and plans including "hard to find" and "one of
a kind" items.
Wikipedia
A pretty good overview of Tesla coils.
octopart.com
Octopart is a search engine for electronic parts.
The Tesla Coil by Chris Gerekos
Chris has written an outstanding paper offering a very detailed and technical explanation of Tesla coil operation. He
also shares his experience constructing the "Zeus" Tesla coil. The paper is in pdf format.
Hazardous Physics
In-depth information about stuff made by Chris Gerekos.
Tesla Coil Web Ring
A list of Tesla coil orientated websites.
Steve's High Voltage
Interesting site with solid state musical Tesla coils, vacuum tube Tesla coils, Marx generators, induction heating and
pulse power.
Classic Tesla
A good online JAVA design program from Bart Anderson.
Circuit Simulator
A nice java circuit simulator applet. Tesla coil circuit is located in: Circuits -> Misc Devices -> Spark Gap
DMOZ Tesla Coil Category
Open Directory Project with a list of Tesla coil websites.
www.richieburnett.co.uk

Lots of good Tesla coil information.
capturedlightning.com
Teslamania, Bert Hickman's site about Quarter Shrinking, Lichtenberg Figures, Tesla Coils, Nikola Tesla, Pulsed
Power, and big Arcs and Sparks
Tesla's autobiography - My Inventions
Tesla recounts his life in his own words. This text was first published in Electrical Experimenter magazine in 1919.
PBS: Tesla - Master of Lightning
Life and legacy, inside his lab, discussions...
TESLA.NU
Matt's Tesla coil website (Swedish ONLY!)
top
Miscellaneous
Appendix
Video Of My Tesla Coil
Download a video of my Tesla coil producing 4 foot arcs.
Pictures Of My Tesla Coils
You can view a couple pictures of my Tesla coils.
Obligatory Legal Disclaimer
The information presented in this page is not guaranteed to be accurate. The decision to follow recommendations in this
page is the responsibility of the reader. The author of this page (Kevin Wilson) is not responsible for any personal
injury or property damage.
Copyright
The entire content included in this website, including but not limited to text, graphics or code is copyrighted as a
collective work under the United States and other copyright laws, and is the property of Kevin Wilson. Any use,
including but not limited to reproduction, distribution, display or transmission of the content of this website is strictly
prohibited without the express written permission of Kevin Wilson.
top
Introduction
Design
Construction
Operation
Appendix
Sorry,
Kevin

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Introduction

Tesla Coil Design, Construction and Operation Guide

TeslaMap - Tesla Coil Design Program

2009-2016 by Kevin Wilson

Power Supply (NST)

Primary Capacitors (MMC)

Good luck building your Tesla coils!

Printing is not available due to copyright infringement issues.

For a more detailed description I recommend the following resources:

The Tesla Coil by Chris Gerekos

Tesla Coil Theory by Terry Blake http://www.tb3.com/tesla/theory.html

Richard Burnett's page http://www.richieburnett.co.uk/tesla.shtml

NST VA = NST Vout NST Iout

NST Impedance = NST Vout NST Iout

NST Watts = ((0.6 NST VA 0.5) + 1) NST VA

PFC Capacitance (F) = NST VA (2 pi NST Fin (NST Vin2))

Fin is input frequency

Primary Resonate Capacitance (uF) = 1 (2 pi NST Impedance NST Fin)

Primary LTR Static Capacitance (uF) = Primary Resonate Capacitance 1.6

Toroid Capacitance = (Toroid Capacitance 1 + Toroid Capacitance 2 + Toroid Capacitance 3) 3

Ring diameter between 3" and 6"

Toroid Capacitance Lower = 1.6079 Overall Diameter 0.8419

Toroid Capacitance Upper = 2.0233 Overall Diameter 0.8085

Ring diameter between 6" and 12"

Toroid Capacitance Lower = 2.0233 Overall Diameter 0.8085

Toroid Capacitance Upper = 2.0586 Overall Diameter 0.8365

Ring diameter between 12" and 20"

Toroid Capacitance Upper = 2.2628 Overall Diameter 0.8339

Small Tesla coils may use a sphere shaped top load.

Sphere Capacitance = 2.83915 (Sphere Diameter 2)

Total Secondary Capacitance = Secondary Coil Capacitance + Top Load Capacitance

Secondary Resonate Frequency = 1 (2 pi sqrt((Secondary Inductance 0.001) (Total Secondary Capacitance)))

Needed Primary Inductance = 1 (4 pi2 (Secondary Fres 1000)2 Primary Capacitance)

Fres is the Secondary Resonate Frequency

Primary Coil Wire Length (ft) = (Primary Coil Diameter pi) 12

Angle Percent = 0.01 (Primary Coil Incline Angle (100 / 90)

Angle Percent Inverted = (100 (Angle Percent 100)) 0.01

Design Parameter Value (standard) Value (metric)

Printing is not available due to copyright infringement issues.

Tesla Coil Schematic

Primary Capacitors (MMC)

Polypropylene type caps

dV/dT = 2 x pi x Vpeak x Frequency

dV/dT = 2 x pi x Vpeak x Frequency

dV/dT = 2 x pi x 2121 x 160000

dV/dT = 2132261765 V/S

dV/dT = 2132 V/uS

Ipeak = Capacitance * dV/dT

Using our dV/dT from above with a 0.056uF cap:

Ipeak = 0.000000056 * 2132261765

Ipeak = 119.4 Amps

Recommended MMC Caps

Manufacturer Part Number Voltage (VDC) Value (uF)

943C series untested*

KP/MMKP 2000 0.0047

Not Recommended For MMC Caps

Manufacturer Part Number Voltage (VDC) Value (uF)

Using a resonate sized primary capacitor can destroy a NST.

Use a safety gap to protect the primary capacitor.

RPM = Rotations Per Minute

RPS = Rotations Per Second

BPR = Breaks Per Revolution (required for 120 BPS)

Sync Motor RPM and Required Electrodes

RPM RPS BPR Electrodes